the battery at C rate (1 hour rate) run at a 10 to one duty cycle (on 0.1 second, <strong>of</strong>f 1 second) is more effective thancharging continuously at the C/10 (10 hour rate common to most system chargers) and will enhance battery life.For a maintenance charge a 25 to 1 duty cycle is recommended. This pulse charge is better than even a very lowtrickle charge for maintaining the battery as cadmium migration is driven by passing current through the separator(charging) over a period <strong>of</strong> time. The rate <strong>of</strong> cadmium migration does not seem to increase proportionally to thecurrent density, leaving us with the conclusion that getting the job done (replacing charge loss through inherent selfdischarge) quickly by a pulse <strong>of</strong> charge current is better than dragging it out with a long sustained overcharge.While this gives battery a break it will probably give rise to a new generation <strong>of</strong> exotic (expensive) chargersfocusing on the dreaded cadmium migration phenomena (hereafter referred to as CMP, people only take threeletter problems seriously) and leave the dreaded memory effect (DME) alone for awhile. Just remember that youcan do the same thing with a $5.00 timer and spend the savings on a subscription to your favorite R/C magazine,<strong>RC</strong>M.Storing the battery is no big deal. Living in Florida where there are no cool (damp, dark, moldy) basement workshops, I store my batteries in the refrigerator on <strong>of</strong>f flying season (July 3rd 9:30 AM to July 4th 7:00 AM). Thoseliving in Northern climates don't really have anything to worry about (there must be some advantage) but shouldremember about the trunks <strong>of</strong> cars and what happens to batteries you leave them in there when you are visiting usfor a winter flying vacation.Looking at the battery voltage after several months <strong>of</strong> storage is an excellent way to pick out a weak cell (usestraight pins to probe each cell). If a cell voltage after several months drops noticeably below any <strong>of</strong> the others,beware. You have a potential problem and the pack should be relegated to some benign surface application. Whilewe are on the subject <strong>of</strong> measuring battery voltage, consider getting one <strong>of</strong> the little digital voltmeters availablethrough electronic hobby outlets. They give you a precise reading and are well worth the modest investment.Second piece <strong>of</strong> advice. don't listen to the R/C car guys when it comes to batteries, they have never experiencedthe thrill <strong>of</strong> real rip roaring, crank shaft bending, dirt in the transmitter, kind <strong>of</strong> crash and as a consequence takeliberties with batteries that would make Leclanche and Volta turn over in their graves to say nothing about causingme just a little heart burn when they get me cornered in "technical" conversations.I'm a new-comer to <strong>RC</strong>, and have a few questions about assembling mysailplane. I have a Hobby Lobby "Skimmer". The instructions assumethat you know a lot <strong>of</strong> model assembly, and in my case, that's a bigassumption.Here's my problem. I'm given some stiff white plastic-like rectanglesthat I'm pretty sure are supposed to be the hinges for the elevator andrudder. My instructions don't tell whether the hinges are to be appliedto the balsa first, then cover the elevator with Monokote, or whether Icover the surfaces, then affix the hinges.Which order do I apply hinges and covering?Are these hinges heat applied, or glued?You wont likes this.....ya have to cut slots in rudder and elevators on theedges <strong>of</strong> the balsa.do you have the "plastic" ones with little holes in it, and a center pivot,(epoxy these in) or R they flexible plastic with a "fuzzy" covering in them?(CA Hinges)?either way, you have to cut slots.A One Part Play:(YOU) Hello, hobby store, I cut my finger <strong>of</strong>f(almost)using my knife tohinge , do you have a hinge slotting tool?(Hobby Store) : It's a <strong>RC</strong> store ain't it? Ya got a credit card number or youwant I stand here all day?:)
Signed, the guy who has a nice deep slice in his finger RIGHT NOW.BWAHAHAHAAnd welcome to the "hobby".Those are CA hinges. You can cut the hinge slots before or after you finishcovering, but don't glue the hinges in until after. The slots can be cut witha hobby knife with a #11 blade, or a TY1 Hinge slotting tool. They shouldonly be the thickness <strong>of</strong> the #11 blade. After slitting the covering, put a pinthrough the center <strong>of</strong> the hinge, insert the hinge into the wing (or whatever),slide on the control surface up against the pin (this keeps em centered), flexthe surface as far as it will go, and put 2 drops on each hinge. Now, turn thewing over and flex the other way, and put 2 more drops on each hinge. Theyshould be flexed about 50 times after gluing, and that's it! Be sure to pullthe pins out. Good Luck!!The hinges go into slots that you cut into the surfaces with an X-Actoknife. The slots are centered on the hinge line <strong>of</strong> the surfaces. Youcan cover the plane first, then cut the slots. After getting the hingesand control surfaces aligned, just a couple drops <strong>of</strong> thin CA on eachside <strong>of</strong> the hinges and you are set. Use a piece <strong>of</strong> paper towel to wickany excess glue out <strong>of</strong> the joints.Hi Lee, lets see if I can help. The white plastic-like thingies areyour hinges. ( If your using C/A hinges see bottom ) Before you coveryour model you need to cut a slots in the trailing edge <strong>of</strong> the stab andfin (attached to the fuselage, you'll picture it in a minute). I assumeyour not using ailerons. To do this use a ball point pin and draw a linedown the center <strong>of</strong> each. Yep! I know that 3/16" or 1/4" is tough to geta centerline on but if you hold the point <strong>of</strong> the pen against the woodand using your fingers as a break you should be able to draw a straightline down the center. You should be able to eye-ball it when your inthe center. Note that there are tools that will help you draw a perfectline down the center but I doubt this was included in your kit.OK, using the plans as a guild, locate where the hinge is positioned onthe wood with a small pencil mark. This is where it gets fun if yourusing the regular plastic hinges. You need to first use you x-acto #11blade to cut a slot on the center line just big enough for each hinge.Then you need to enlarge the slots so that the hinges will push into theslots. After this is done you will need to do the same on the rudderand elevator using the hinges as a guild. I tape them to the stab andfin and then us a pencil to mark the locations.Finally, remove all the hinges and cover the model. You will be able t<strong>of</strong>ind the slots by sticking an x-acto knife through the covering. Afterthe model is covered you need to epoxy the hinges in place. So, using15 minute epoxy bind the hinge and at the center place a small dab ordish washing liquid soap. This will prevent the epoxy from sticking tothe hinge point. Now, place a small amount epoxy to the end <strong>of</strong> thehinge that will be inserted into the stab or fin. Do the same for allthe hinges on the stab and fin. Let the epoxy setup. OK, with theepoxy set its time to attach the rudder and the elevator. I usually dothe elevator first as there a more hinges there then the rudder. Justapply a small dab or epoxy to each hinge, line up the elevator or rudderand push in the hinges. Again let it set just flex it back and forthseveral times as the epoxy sets.