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The Northern Origin of the Melon Coiffure in Classical Greece

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E. Lopes – <strong>The</strong> <strong>Nor<strong>the</strong>rn</strong> <strong>Orig<strong>in</strong></strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Melon</strong> <strong>Coiffure</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Classical</strong> <strong>Greece</strong><br />

Fig. 18 - Female hair. Tomis, nor<strong>the</strong>rn necropolis<br />

(after CANARACHE 1967).<br />

Bollett<strong>in</strong>o di Archeologia on l<strong>in</strong>e I 2010/ Volume speciale/ Poster Session 7 Reg. Tribunale Roma 05.08.2010 n. 330 ISSN 2039 - 0076<br />

www.archeologia.beniculturali.it/pages/pubblicazioni.html<br />

104<br />

F<strong>in</strong>ally, <strong>the</strong> melon coiffure is present <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Attic world <strong>in</strong> Late <strong>Classical</strong> times. I have<br />

already noted that Praxiteles gave his statue <strong>of</strong><br />

Artemis Brauronia and one Muse at Mant<strong>in</strong>ea this<br />

coiffure. In addition, <strong>the</strong>re are several Attic stelai<br />

depict<strong>in</strong>g women with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Melon</strong>enfrisur (fig.<br />

17) 30 .<br />

A bronze mirror (<strong>in</strong>v. n. 14326), held <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> National Museum <strong>of</strong> A<strong>the</strong>ns, dates to <strong>the</strong> first<br />

half <strong>of</strong> III c. B.C. and shows <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> a young<br />

lady with a melon coiffure 31 .<br />

In a grave dated to <strong>the</strong> III c. A.D., <strong>in</strong><br />

Tomis, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn necropolis, <strong>the</strong> brown hair<br />

<strong>of</strong> a young girl was found toge<strong>the</strong>r with jewellery,<br />

pottery and similar objects (fig. 18) 32 . <strong>The</strong> tomb<br />

dates to <strong>the</strong> III century AD. <strong>The</strong> early <strong>in</strong>habitants<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> region may have dedicated hair as a tribute<br />

to a chthonian goddess, but hair has not been<br />

found elsewhere <strong>in</strong> burial contexts, perhaps because<br />

organic material decays easily. <strong>The</strong><br />

coiffure is divided lengthwise <strong>in</strong>to sections us<strong>in</strong>g<br />

two pieces <strong>of</strong> lace. A plait must have surrounded <strong>the</strong> skull <strong>in</strong> order to give <strong>the</strong> girl a meek and sober<br />

appearance. <strong>The</strong> coiffure may have been similar to that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> goddess <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bucarest Museum: <strong>in</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

words, a <strong>Melon</strong>enfrisur 33 .<br />

This hair <strong>in</strong> Tomis recalls <strong>the</strong> ritual <strong>of</strong>fer<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> locks <strong>of</strong> hair. Many centuries later, Alexander Pope<br />

stressed <strong>the</strong> moment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hair <strong>in</strong> his mock-heroic poem: “<strong>The</strong> meet<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>the</strong> sacred hairs<br />

dissever / From <strong>the</strong> fair head, for ever and for ever!” 34 .<br />

<strong>The</strong> local m<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> Orthagoria flourishes before 347 BC, at which po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>the</strong> polis came under<br />

Macedonian rule and <strong>the</strong> local m<strong>in</strong>t was <strong>the</strong>refore closed. This year can be considered <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>us ante<br />

quem for <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> Orthagoria, too, which was <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> same political events 35 .<br />

In any case, <strong>the</strong> reception <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> melon coiffure <strong>in</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn <strong>Greece</strong>, and <strong>in</strong> A<strong>the</strong>ns <strong>in</strong> particular, was<br />

eased by <strong>the</strong> fashion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> artists for endow<strong>in</strong>g young women and goddesses with appeal<strong>in</strong>g<br />

coiffures, already clearly apparent <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> vase pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g by Meidias 36 . This early evidence reveals that this<br />

social need for seductive hair styles was deeply felt <strong>in</strong> A<strong>the</strong>nian society. This demand is ultimately <strong>the</strong><br />

reason why <strong>the</strong> Thracian hairstyle was so successful.<br />

In conclusion, I believe it is possible that <strong>the</strong> reception <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Melon</strong>enfrisur <strong>in</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn <strong>Greece</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />

late classical times is due to <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>corporation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Thracian region <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> Aegean ko<strong>in</strong>e, culm<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

<strong>the</strong> entry <strong>of</strong> this area <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> most important and powerful state <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> region: Macedonia 37 . Thus, some<br />

aspects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life style <strong>of</strong> peripheral regions eventually came to conquer cont<strong>in</strong>ental <strong>Greece</strong>.<br />

30<br />

CLAIRMONT 1993, 802, 2.919; see also BESCHI 2003, 147–154; CLAIRMONT 1993, 233–234, 3.371b; 95, no. 4.420; 1993, 357, no.<br />

3.433; 413, no. 3.471; for a comment on <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>scriptions nos. 3.371b, 3433, 3.471 see respectively: TRAILL 2007, 160, no. 86.4820;<br />

2005, 439–440, no. 78.8980; 1994, 356, no. 210965.<br />

31<br />

ZÜCHNER 1942, 82, KS 129 = SCHWARTMAIER 1997, 67 (1), no. 31, tav. 65, 2.<br />

32<br />

CANARACHE 1967, 40.<br />

33<br />

BORDENACHE 1969, 21–2, no. 17, tav. X, XI, XII D.<br />

34<br />

POPE 1714, vv. 153–55.<br />

35<br />

PETER 1997, 140–43.<br />

36<br />

BURN 1987, 97, no. M1, pl. 22-5a; 97, no. M2 pl. 27-9; 111, no. MM75, pl. 26; 106, no. MM17, pl. 34; 98, no. M7, pls. 35-7; 97, no. M2,<br />

pls. 27-9; 100, no. C1, pls. 39-41.<br />

37<br />

HAMMOND and GRIFFITH 266–67; SCHÖNERT-GEISS 1985, 51–62; YOUROUKOVA 1976, 63–70, tav. 19; DIMITROV 1993, 151–63.

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