RESORT GUIDE NEIL HARTMANN NIKKO - Powderlife

TRAVEL FEATURE // nikkoPHOTOGRAPHY AND WORDS BY // ross cole-hunterSTEPPING into the ancient,forested sanctuaryof Nikko feels likestepping back in time400 years – before the Westerninfluence, before the steelreinforcedconcrete apartments,before the buzzing illuminatedsigns and back to a quieter andmore beautiful time.NIKKO is always the first place thatI recommend to friends that ask meabout travelling in Japan. Nikko is aUNSECO World Heritage site that isonly two-hours north of Tokyo.While it is possible to visit during aday trip from Tokyo, I feel that rushingthrough a place like this will ruin halfof what is special about Nikko – theserene, picturesque Japanese experiencethat everyone who visits Japancraves.The main attractions of Nikko are theold temples and shrines, most of whichwere built over 400 years ago. Granted,there are much older temples andshrines in Japan, but while they havesurvived, the area surrounding hasn’t;It’s a little hard to feel the connection toa 1300 year-old temple, when you’rehearing the industrial sounds of heavytraffic and seeing the visual pollution ofthe neighbouring concrete buildings,and their connected jungle of overheadpower cabling.In contrast, Nikko is set in a remoteand mountainous area, surroundedby giant trees, pristine rivers andmountains. While there is a city nearby,the actual location of the temples andshrines is enveloped within a fortress of“ancient pines, stretching up to dizzyingheights that even light has a hard timepenetrating. As you walk around thisancient site, you’re removed from allmodern stimuli and teleported back toan era of shogunates and samurais.If you’re lucky, you may even spotsome wild monkeys roaming around.The temples and shrines withinare the most spectacular that I haveseen in Japan. The colours are vivid,the wooden carvings are elaborateand the scale is unmatched. Thereare many famous carvings, includingthe ‘hear no evil, see no evil, speak noevil’ trio of monkeys and a carving ofan elephant based purely on a writtendescription. It’s far too easy to spendseveral hours looking at the details.There is more to Nikko than justold buildings. The area surrounding isalmost as popular with Japanese tourists,especially during the brief cherryThe serene, picturesque Japanese experiencethat everyone who visits Japan craves.”blossom period in spring, and theequally brief and stunning autumn coloursthat set the region ablaze in vividhues of red and yellow. One of Japan’smost famous waterfalls, the 97m-highKegon Falls, also happens to be high inthe hills surrounding Nikko.Travel is only half experienced iflocal food is ignored. Nikko is famousfor yuba, which is the skin that formson the surface of heated soymilk.It’s a versatile ingredient that can beeaten raw, added to soup or evenfried. There were several places to tryNikko yuba in all it’s variations, whichI did and recommend. Raw it’s alittle sweet, in soup it’s delicious andfried… just mmm. Apart from yuba,the other specialty of the area issoba noodles.In my mind, Nikko is the ultimateJapanese experience. It is a culminationof exquisitely preserved culturalheritage set amongst equally exquisiteand ancient natural surroundings.This truly sets Nikko apart from anyother location in Japan.Due to the special tourism partnershipbetween Nikko and Kutchan, theTourist Information Center in Kutchanhas a variety of brochures on the areashould you desire more information.Where: Nikko City, Tochigi PrefectureGetting there: Trains frequently leavefrom Shinjuku and Asakusa in Tokyo.When: Beautiful and popular in allseasons.Cost: ¥1000 for combination entry tothe temples/shrinessales@tracksrealestate.com57powderlife issue 29 // December 25 - January 7, 2010 www.powderlife.com