24SPRING 2015Walking with the MaasaiJohn Hastings-ThomsonFrom childhood I have been aware that I had a great-greatunclewho was an African explorer. He had been the firstwhite man to cross Maasai territory and come out alive, andhe had a waterfall and a gazelle named after him. It was anambition to follow in his footsteps, and when three years agoI learnt that a Kenyan was keen to organize a walk followingpart of Thomson’s Maasai Land Expedition, I wanted to takepart.The man concerned, Ezekiel Katato, turned out to be aMaasai elder from a village Thomson passed through duringhis third expedition. Ezekiel had learnt about Thomson atschool. It became his ambition to organize a walk coveringthe section of the expedition that passed through his homearea, from the edge of Amboseli National Park to his village,Kilonito, a distance of about 75 miles.At the end of May I arrived in Nairobi to join a group ofDutch members of MasterPeace, whose support had madethe walk possible. It was an amazing experience; Ezekiel isan excellent organizer. A group of around 60 people fromHolland, Japan and Britain guided by young Maasai menand women took part, with a full support team ensuringsmooth passage over the six days of the walk and a gamedrive in Amboseli. We visited several schools during the walkand camped in the grounds of four of them. This gave usthe opportunity to spend time with the children, and it issomething I would like to do more of in future.The Maasai proved to be extremely friendly and hospitable,and it was a privilege to walk with them through theirenvironment. So far the Maasai have managed to preservemany of their traditions. Many of the young Maasaiaccompanying the walk were at college or university, but werestill actively involved with their villages and their culture.Ezekiel is Executive Director of Across Maasai LandInitiative (amlikenya.org), a non-profit organization workingto promote and support maximum utilization of locallyavailable resources and assets for sustainable livelihoods ofthe Maasai people in Kenya. One of the main thrusts of theirwork is girls’ education, to attempt to break the cycle ofearly arranged marriages and to help women become moreproactive in their culture.Ezekiel aims to develop the walk as a way of increasingawareness of Maasai culture and encouraging tourismthrough the links with Joseph Thomson’s travels in Maasailand. He sees this initiative as Maasai-led, but with theencouragement of the Thomson family and supporters.Ezekiel’s respect for Thomson is demonstrated by a sign heplaced on the walk route. The spelling might not be 100% butthat doesn’t detract from the sentiment. This is a wonderfulexample of a local organization trying to improve their worldthemselves. It is one I will do my best to support.The walk was so successful that it is being repeated on12th-20th November 2015, and I will be taking part again.There will be more emphasis on spending time in the Maasaivillages and in the schools with the children, although therewill still be quite a bit of walking between the villages andalso with the Maasai and their animals. Anyone interestedin taking part can contactEzekiel direct throughthe walk website (www.throughmaasailand.org), or email me(hastingsthomson@btinternet.com) and I willemail you a leaflet about thewalk and answer any queriesyou might have.“…a wonderfulexample of a localorganizationtrying to improvetheir worldthemselves.”
Adventures in polar explorationA conversation with Børge Ousland FRSGSTheGeographer 14- 25SPRING 2015Ahead of Børge Ousland’s run of Inspiring Peopletalks in December 2014 (one of which markedthe RSGS’s 5,000th talk and 130th birthday) weinterviewed him in the Explorers’ Room at RSGSHQ and asked him all about his expeditions andexperiences. This conversation is edited from thefull interview which can be seen on our YouTubechannel.Please tell us a bit about your last expedition.The last trip I was on was this year when I took a trip acrossSpitzbergen. It was a relatively short trip, only a few days, butit is part of a bigger project where we will cross all the 20biggest glaciers in the world. I am doing this with a Frenchguy called Vincent Colliard, but I think it is going to take usten years to finish.What’s the next glacier that you are aiming for?We are aiming for the Grant Ice Cap on Ellesmere Island.Actually we have an application in for crossing the NovayaZemlya in Russia, but Russia is a bit tricky at this stage so wewill have to wait and see. This trip will be in May; it’s a goodtime to do it, not too cold and there’s midnight sun but stillgood skiing conditions. We will bring a kite [ski] as well to seeif the wind is in the right direction, and then we can maybeuse it if there are no crevasses and the visibility is good.That’s the danger with glaciers. Nowadays you can actuallyplan a lot of these trips ahead of time just using GoogleEarth, and we are also working with the space division ofAirbus as they have a super satellite team so we can actuallysee the crevasses and plan accordingly. We can take ourGPS position from the satellites which means we are not asvulnerable as before. It’s still an adventure, just a bit safer.What are thehighlights of yourmany trips?“When I startedthat trip I hadnever been alone ina tent before.”I don’t think anyof my trips are thebest, but if I couldselect one momentit would be reaching the North Pole after my first solo trek. Idon’t usually cry but that time I cried because I went throughso much on that trip. I started on 3rd March in Siberia, andwhen I started that trip I had never been alone in a tentbefore and I was starting on something that had never beendone. The first week on the trip, I was just thinking aboutgiving up, so from then on and standing at the North Pole 52days later was a big victory for me personally.Is there an explorer from history that you find particularlyinspiring?There are so many, and also modern explorers, but theguy who meant the most to me as an inspiration is FridtjofNansen, especially the trip where he left the Fram to tryand reach the North Pole in 1895 – that was an amazingexpedition, just him and Hjalmar Johansen. They didn’tactually reach the Pole, but it was a truly spectacular journey.They had a strong will to survive and they did. I think I wouldhave loved to be with Nansen on that trip.What does geography mean to you?For me it means to go out and see what the map actuallylooks like, the combination of the landscape and going out tosee and explore it for yourself. Many people say to me, nowthere is nothing new to be done – well that is the wrong wayto look at it because you haven’t seen it until you have seenit for yourself, so my advice is get out there, explore andsee it for yourself.Speaking of the danger of expeditions, isthere a moment that stands out for you asparticularly tough or scary?Well, I love polar bears, they are just socute, you are always excited when youmeet them. I have met maybe 50 or 60polar bears; they can be super dangerousbut we have always been able to handlethe situation so I wouldn’t say that was abad experience. I think that it’s probablycrevasses. I have had a couple of incidents;one in Antarctica where I went through acrevasse, and one in Patagonia, and thatis not nice when the floor you are standingon just goes from underneath you. I washanging on a rope one time, and the othertime I was still attached to my sled whichbroke my fall. Going through the ice at theNorth Pole in minus 40 was probablymore dangerous.