SLOVENSKI ALPINIZEM 2006

Chomo Lhari
If we wanted to excerpt a single best effort of Slovenian alpinism in
2006, this would be it. The central project of the SAA had been planned
for two years. Info collection as well as obtaining necessary permits
took a lot of time and efforts. The result however are two first ascents
to one of the highly regarded present problems of the Himalayas.
Slovenian route (Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorenčič; ED2, M6+/30 o -
70 o , 1950 m, Oct. 12 - 16) and Slovenian couloir (Tine Cuder, Matej
Kladnik, Rok Blagus and Samo Krmelj; TD+/80 o , 45 o - 60 o , 1900 m,
Oct. 12 - 15) were climbed free in alpine style. The Slovenian route has
been awarded the prestigious Piolet d’Or award for 2006 and besides
the renown Marko Prezelj, several young alpinists have proved their
abilities.
Cho Oyu
Despite the fact, that ambitiously set goals in the NE face of the
mountain haven’t been achieved, the expedition resulted in great
success. Pavle Kozjek did a first ascent (Slovenian Route: V-, 50°-60°,
1100m) in the NE face, joining his route to the Polish ridge and reached
the summit in a fast, single day push! The route was then repeated by
other expedition members (Marjan Kovač, Emil Tratnik, Aljaž Tratnik
and Uroš Samec). Kozjek’s achievement has earned great international
appreciation and won the audience’s award for the Piolet d’Or for
2006.
Pakistan 2006
Everyone was watching closely when a complex, three-in-one expedition
set off to Pakistan. It comprised of three parties: a 3-member female
team (Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovšek and Aleksandra Voglar), a team
of young climbers (Aleš and Nejc Česen, Matjaž Jeran and Matevž
Kunšič) and a party of experienced climbers (Andrej Grmovšek and
Silvo Karo). The main plans were completed when the female party
climbed the Eternal Flame on Trango Nameless Tower in a single
push, while the young climbers repeated the hard Slovenian route to
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