LUXURY

With all the hallmarks of a magical kingdom, Bhutan boasts
spectacular mountains, virgin forests, pristine rivers, clean,
crisp air, striking views of the eastern Himalayas, a policy of
Gross National Happiness (designed to respect cultural and
ecological integrity while steering economic development
into quality of life for the people), a revered King and a
happy, contented people. Bhutan is also a country steeped
in tradition successfully preserving its ancient culture with
people continuing to wear traditional dress, consisting of a
kira for women and a gho for men.
The country is named after the claps of thunder that shake
the valley in the monsoonal months and was heralded in
2008 as one of the most exclusive destinations in the world -
a major accomplishment for a destination that was closed to
the world until 1974. Since then, via a measured and cautious
approach to tourism, Bhutan has successfully limited the
damaging effects of large-scale tourism and positioned itself
as one of the world’s most captivating luxury destinations.
My first visit to Bhutan was undertaken rather bravely,
in the winter of 2000, and while the bracing night-time
temperatures were a true test of the intrepid traveller within,
the days were warm and clear with brilliant blue skies
affording unrivalled views of the Himalayas. These were
particularly dramatic as we descended into the western valley
of Paro. As the plane gradually emerged from the clouds and
sunlight streamed through the cabin, a staggering expanse
of snow-capped mountains filled the horizon. Shortly after,
the plane dipped into the valley below, weaving magically
between the mountains as if it were not a cumbersome piece
of machinery at all but a nimble bird darting between trees,
landing gracefully at the one and only airport in Bhutan.
For those looking for more excitement, Bhutan’s mountains
and rivers are adventure playgrounds just waiting to be
explored. Activities range from white water rafting and
kayaking to hikes to far-away monasteries with the evening
spent at a luxury campsite, dinners in the candle-lit grounds
of an ancient fort, mountain biking on remote off-road
trails to traditional hot stone baths prepared under the stars
at night, perfect for those aching limbs after a long day of
action. There is even the opportunity to learn the loved and
ancient art of archery from the locals, or take time to enjoy a
round of nine holes on the Thimphu golf course - at 2500m
above sea level it is the highest one in the world!
But there is also a stillness to Bhutan, a peace, something
bordering on the mystical that is encapsulated by the tiny
temples perched high on the mountain tops, the soft, lulling
prayers of the monks that float through your window in the
early morning and in the distance the soft chime of cowbells
as yak-herders traverse the rugged mountainside. For those
looking to experience life on BST, or Bhutan Stretchable Time,
as the locals call it, then this is the perfect place - enjoy a
custom-designed yoga retreat, take a Buddhism workshop,
contemplate life in a morning meditation class or indulge in
one of the wellness spas offered by the one or two luxury
hotels tucked away in the surrounding mountain forests.
In recent years, a scattering of exclusive and beautifully
appointed properties have opened across Bhutan offering
travellers the opportunity to enjoy a cross country sixstar
experience. Thankfully, these have been designed
thoughtfully and sympathetically, treading lightly on the
pristine environments in which they reside. Aman Resorts has
opened a selection of beautiful boutique properties in Paro,
Thimphu, Punakha and most recently Bumthang in Central
Bhutan and the secluded Uma Hotel (a member of the Como
Hotels & Resorts group) commands wonderful views across
Paro valley and has plans for a second property overlooking
the upper reaches of the wild Mo Chhu river in Punakha.
Despite these developments, things happen slowly in Bhutan
and sometimes not at all, which, for those like me, who, in a
previous life made a career out of time management, timelines
and being on time, can be the ultimate test of these well honed
skills. But the rewards are priceless, opening up long stretches
of time for conversation to flow, for spontaneous friendships
to form and for warm, human connections to be made.
Returning to Bhutan several years later, this time to live, I
found my most memorable moments to be those in which I let
time give way and magic take over… a meander by a rushing
river with a trail of little monks for companions… a visit to
the vegetable markets for sweet, masala tea with a lovely
old man who sells me luscious red chillies with a mischievous
look in his eye, or at the local disco where everyone knows
my name and I meet a Bhutanese Princess and my lovely new
friends tell me I don’t need to pay for my drinks, not now,
or tomorrow, maybe next time, another time, whenever you
have time… I realise I don’t know the time…. the mountains
so still, so ancient that they imbue a timelessness into your
travels and you have no choice but to let go.
For those who make the effort to journey to this special place,
so untouched by the harried angst of a far away world, there
awaits an invitation to drop your worries at the door and
relax into a gentler pace of life, letting the magic of Bhutan
wash over you.
More info
Getting there: Druk Air flies daily into Bhutan from
Bangkok, Delhi and Kathmandu. Bookings can only be
made through a registered Bhutan tour operator.
When to go: Spring and autumn offer mild temperatures
and a variety of ancient festivals occur during these
periods. Avoid the monsoonal summer months of June,
July and August.
Must see/do:
dramatically to the mountain side in the picturesque
valley of Paro.
in a traditional dish of cheese, onions, and red rice.
prepared with the healing waters of local springs.
Rotorua
Melanie Hawkins recently went searching for the unexpected in Rotorua.
Driving into Rotorua on a beautiful winter afternoon, I caught a glimpse of the
Agrodome and Rainbow & Fairy Springs signs. My mind flashed back to my childhood
and the wonderful family trips we had to this region. I’m sure that nearly every New
Zealander has been to Rotorua at some point. It’s our thriving cultural zone, natural
volcanic wonderland and home to a bounty of beautiful lakes. For this trip, I was in
pursuit of an ‘unexpected’ Rotorua and was going to be staying
in three of the region’s most luxurious properties.
First up was Lake Okareka Lodge by Lebua Hotels and and feminine aspects of the room. Dark wood furniture is
Resorts. Discreet and hidden away, this exclusive retreat is for softened with light coloured panelled walls featuring a floral
those wanting privacy from the world and to be surrounded motif. There is much attention to detail in the suites, including
by nature and tranquillity. Think space – there is so much of the lighting, and all spaces take advantage of the sweeping
it with the expanse of lake that makes the lodge location on views. An oversized bathroom and large walk–in wardrobe
a secluded peninsula quite spectacular. There are only three with ample drawers and cupboards to spread out and unpack
large suites which combined can accommodate up to nine for your stay help to make you feel truly at home.
guests at a time. A relatively new concept for New Zealand,
The lodge has a dedicated chef, David Robinson who creates
Lake Okareka offers only single bookings which are ideal
personalised breakfasts, lunches and five course dinners
for extended family groups, couples celebrating an event or
which form part of the all inclusive tariff. Some of the meal
indulgent honeymooners.
highlights for me included an entrée of New Zealand scampi
Taking nearly a year to renovate, titivate and re-launch as the with Wasabi mayonnaise accompanied by a salad of daikon,
epitome of luxury, there has been no expense spared at Lake mungbean sprouts and coriander and a delicious dessert
Okareka Lodge – opulent furniture, silent central heating/air of French chocolate cake with liquorice ice cream – very
conditioning, multi-room audio system, 800 thread count decadent indeed!
bed linen, Bvlgari amenities, dedicated spa suite, high-tech
In places like this, you can’t hep but want to immerse yourself
gym, baby grand piano, climate controlled wine cellar, private
in the natural surrounds – whether it be cycling, fishing,
use of jet ski and outdoor Jacuzzi to name just a few.
kayaking or walking. I took a short stroll down the road
The suite furnishings are an interesting mix of sheen and plaid to the start of the Lake Okareka boardwalk and on a crisp
with the use of light and dark shades to accent the masculine winter morning the area was teaming with native birdlife and
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