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sea and desert A Fusion of Traditions SALT n jair téllez THE SIERRAS, DESERTS, FERTILE VALLEYS, AND THE SWEEPING COASTLINES OF THE PACIFIC AND SEA OF CORTEZ HAVE PROVIDED OPPORTUNITIES FOR THE INHABITANTS OF THIS REGION TO EXCEL IN MINING, FORESTRY, AGRICULTURE, AND FISHING. An essential seasoning. In Mexico salt is produced at Guerrero Negro and San Felipe in Baja California; Cuyutlán, Colima; Salina Cruz, Oaxaca; and Celestún, Yucatán. In fact, the exceptionally long shoreline accounts for the abundance of seafood in the region’s gastronomy, while the sprawling plains in Sonora, Chihuahua, and Durango are the home of cattle ranches that dot the vast landscape. There are immense fields of grains, vegetables, and fruit for drying. By way of example, the fields in Sinaloa alone produce almost 40 percent of the tomatoes consumed in Mexico. In neighboring Durango, beans and corn are major crops. Sonora rates first place nationwide in the production of grapes, potatoes, and asparagus. Mexico is supplied with thousands of tons of green chiles, apples, and nuts from Chihuahua. Ours is an authentic surf and turf culinary success. The distance from the cultures of Central Mexico is seen in the distinct cuisine of the Salt works at Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur. A chef at Restaurante Manzanilla in Ensenada. A meat, avocado, and fish dish at Tras Lomita in Valle de Guadalupe. Internationally renowned lobster tacos at Puerto Nuevo in Rosarito. 44 — Ven a Comer sea and deserT — 45
sea and desert AGUACHILE The sea’s fresh bounty is seen in this shrimp cooked in lime juice and seasoned with red onion, cucumber, chile de árbol, and salt. Northwest. The basics of the gastronomy in this part of Mexico are defined by the melding of products and techniques that came into being as a result of the encounter between the cultures of Europe and the New World. It is an amalgam of the culinary traditions of the early pre-Hispanic settlers with the practices of the pioneering European immigrants. The result of adversity, it reflects the isolation of its unusual environmental spaces and is also influenced by its proximity to the United States. Our gastronomic culture is evident in a constant search for ingredients, cooks, and producers. The most outstanding recipes from the northwest coast are determined by the availability of high quality fish and shellfish. From the Pacific and its cold waters we fish, prepare, and consume enormous amounts of unique fruits of the sea including centollos (spider crabs), lobsters, sea urchins, barnacles, abalones, squid, and clams. The cuisine inland arises from reaping the benefits of working the rolling plains, a geography ideal for cattle raising. The main protagonist here is beef cattle that can be cooked to perfection by just throwing it on a grill with a dash of salt and pepper. Many preparations feature machacas (dried meat, fish, and shellfish) that are enormously popular. Historically, they came about because of the need to preserve products from the sea. Salted and dried meat and vegetables adapted easily to the adverse conditions of the desert and became popular among all of Mexico’s northern communities. Sinaloa boasts the famed pescado zarandeado (grilled filet of fish with olives, chiles, butter, and a mayonnaise and mustard sauce), as well as shrimp tamales, and the ever popular aguachiles, a cocktail of shrimp CAESaR SALAD Created in Tijuana in the 1920s by Caesar Cardini, it combines lettuce, anchovies, garlic, oil, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, egg yolks, parmesan cheese, lime, croutons, salt, and pepper. Seaside dining by the Pacific in Los Cabos Shrimp tamales from the market in Mazatlán. Sunset at a seaside restaurant in Mazatlán. “Student’s special” with tomato compote, a dish by chef Roberto Alcocer. Valle de Guadalupe. Traditional fish and shellfish tostada from Sabina “La guerrerense”, Ensenada. 46 — Ven a Comer sea and deserT — 47
Page 3 and 4: general COORDINATION: María Luisa
Page 5 and 6: MEXICO IS ONE OF a HANDFUL OF MEGAD
Page 7 and 8: come to eat Mexico n Gloria López
Page 9 and 10: Conquered by Mexico! n joan roca My
Page 11 and 12: Mexican Cuisine, a Millenary Histor
Page 13 and 14: In the same period, Totonac culture
Page 15 and 16: Traditional Mexican Cuisine n marco
Page 17 and 18: Mexican gastronomy today offers wid
Page 19 and 20: CORN Maize is the core of the Mexic
Page 21 and 22: sea and desert sea and desert baja
Page 23: sea and desert FISH OF THE DAY serv
Page 27 and 28: sea and desert COLD AND WARM SHELLF
Page 29 and 30: sea and desert the tomato, Mexican
Page 31 and 32: sea and desert Tomato and serrano c
Page 33 and 34: sea and desert Mexican Wine n Hugo
Page 35 and 36: sea and desert 90% of Mexican wines
Page 37 and 38: The Central Pacific Coast THE CENTR
Page 39 and 40: The Central Pacific Coast JICAMA AN
Page 41 and 42: The Central Pacific Coast tortas ah
Page 43 and 44: GREEN CEVICHE The Central Pacific C
Page 45 and 46: The Central Pacific Coast THE AVOCA
Page 47 and 48: The Central Pacific Coast Torta de
Page 49 and 50: The Central Pacific Coast May I Off
Page 51 and 52: The Central Pacific Coast coctel ma
Page 53 and 54: etween two oceans between two ocean
Page 55 and 56: etween two oceans FILLED OCOSINGO C
Page 57 and 58: etween two oceans CLAY COOKING POTS
Page 59 and 60: etween two oceans BEAN ROLL serves
Page 61 and 62: etween two oceans Mexico and Its Ch
Page 63 and 64: etween two oceans Cheese soup at Qu
Page 65 and 66: etween two oceans The Many Faces of
Page 67 and 68: etween two oceans containing the wa
Page 69 and 70: t h e NORtheast the northeast Coahu
Page 71 and 72: t h e NORtheast CHILES STUFFED WITH
Page 73 and 74: t h e NORtheast Gulf of Mexico; to
Page 75 and 76:
t h e NORtheast PORK BELLY TACOS se
Page 77 and 78:
t h e NORtheast Cabrito, Flavor of
Page 79 and 80:
t h e NORtheast A plate of cabrito
Page 81 and 82:
t h e NORtheast The Navigable River
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t h e NORtheast 6 TH place worldwid
Page 85 and 86:
COUNTRY AND CITY country and city a
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COUNTRY AND CITY FLOATING PRICKLY P
Page 89 and 90:
COUNTRY AND CITY taco placero= Tort
Page 91 and 92:
COUNTRY AND CITY LAMB MIXIOTES WITH
Page 93 and 94:
COUNTRY AND CITY maIze GODDESS ILAM
Page 95 and 96:
COUNTRY AND CITY Preparing corundas
Page 97 and 98:
COUNTRY AND CITY pulque n josé N.
Page 99 and 100:
COUNTRY AND CITY with a white (unfl
Page 101 and 102:
T H E Southeast the Southeast campe
Page 103 and 104:
T H E Southeast ONIONS WITH RECADO
Page 105 and 106:
T H E Southeast tiny oblong chile p
Page 107 and 108:
T H E Southeast fish in season, GRE
Page 109 and 110:
T H E Southeast Spiciness for the W
Page 111 and 112:
T H E Southeast The egg that wants
Page 113 and 114:
T H E Southeast Libations of Fire a
Page 115 and 116:
T H E Southeast 27,619 tons of caca
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GLOSSARY 230 — Ven a Comer GLOSSA
Page 119 and 120:
cream, cheese, some sort of shredde
Page 121 and 122:
are two basic kinds: the one that g
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Arisbeth Araujo FOOD WRITER Héctor
Page 125:
acknowledgments For their recipes:
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