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sea and desert La Carrodilla Vineyard, Valle de Guadalupe. Hugo D’Acosta, oenologist of the wine producer Casa de Piedra. The Vena Cava wine cellar. Grapes ripe for harvesting. TYPES OF GRAPES The grapes most used in Mexican wines: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Nebbiolo, Syrah and Tempranillo. n Now, in the twenty-first century, Mexican wine is a brilliant representative of our cultural mosaic. It turns grape culture into an activity that has a lot to say about today’s Mexico: contemporary, modern, and full of proposals and drive. With our wines on the table, the world’s wine and food offerings are both enriched and diversified; Mexican wines contribute freshness, variety, and origin. They are a product that adds to the wide variety of flavors. The most significant advances in the wine industry are the purification of its personality and character, its vibrant participation in today’s Mexico, its ties to nationality, and its closeness to the younger generations. In a word: origin. All culinary culture is based on the knowledge and use of its original products. Our wines are a fundamental element that refresh, enrich, and solidify our culinary patrimony. Oenologists, as part of the site-plant-man threesome, are the depositaries of the knowhow acquired over time and space, and we have the responsibility to preserve, promote, and develop our wines. Although we must not forget that, since wine-making is an occupation, anyone who is involved in it must focus on the formation, care, and evolution of the product. This industry is alive in an unprecedented worldwide dynamic. More and better wines are coming forward and in just a few years the consumer’s perception has changed; today the market is receptive, competitive, and in constant flux, evolving thanks to a growing supply. The current proposal of Mexican wine is multifaceted and supported by its identity. Despite the obvious progress made in oenology, the challenge is for our wines to move forward and little by little form a day-to-day part of the nation’s own attire. Wine, as a human activity, tends to permeate the zone where it is produced, and it will always be enriched to the extent that those involved participate by exchanging experiences. There can be no true wine region if its milieu is not an integral, inseparable part of that task. The wine culture of a given region is recognized and consolidated when its members live it and share in space, time, and form. Our Grapes and Wine Regions Without overlooking the deep roots of several centuries of mestizaje or interbreeding, Mexican wine is a solid representative of the grape and wine growing culture in the New World. While it is true that the current wine growing map is constantly being redrawn, we cannot fail to mention important events that underlie the history of grapes in our territory. In 1597 the oldest wineproducer in America was founded in Parras de la Fuente, Coahuila: Casa Madero. Then in 1888, in what was then the Territory of Baja California, Bodegas de Santo Tomás continued commercially with the missionary legacy begun by the Dominican friars in 1791 in the place known today as Valle de Santo Tomás. 30 Thousand jobs created by the wine producing industry in Mexico. n 64 — Ven a Comer sea and deserT — 65
sea and desert 90% of Mexican wines are produced in Baja California. The wine-producing states are Baja California, Coahuila, Querétaro, Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes and Chihuahua. n Mexico has mountain vineyards at tropical latitudes; the altitude of more than 1800 meters above sea level compensates for the demands of the climate. Aguascalientes, Coahuila, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Zacatecas bear witness to this phenomenon as producer-states. In the north we have vineyards on the coast, situated in unmistakable marine environments and permanently protected by the Pacific Ocean. Inland Sonora and Chihuahua have ideal valleys for vineyards. Baja California is clearly the symbol of the grape growing drive in Mexico. In this region more than ninety per cent of the national supply is produced. Cliff-lined coasts bathed by cold waters temper the dominant continental climate, and our grapes are distributed both on flat sandy land and granite hillsides with varying climates. Thanks to the increasing number of growers, preponderantly emerging from projects devised on a human scale, the wine lover finds here a variety of grapes and innovative production methods that originated elsewhere. Baja California is overwhelmingly the place that is shaping grape and wine growing in today’s Mexico. Its three-dimensional matrix —well-adapted varieties of grapes, privileged sites, and vintners with solid proposals— means the potential options for the future are almost infinite. The actual surface area, although still discrete, contrasts with the extensive offering of wines, which always boast a clear, well-defined personality. Production trends are enriched by the personal interpretations of participants who assure they are communicating their own experience. In Baja California wine is currently experiencing a unique, almost chaotic, moment. While the scale of the vineyards makes it difficult to pigeonhole them in terms of wine production worldwide, the participants, grapes, and the soils have made Ensenada one of the regions with the greatest wealth and dynamics in the wine industry. What Do Our Wines Taste Like? Attempting to sum up the style of Mexican wine into a single taste, in one sip, is as unthinkable as renouncing the biodiversity that surrounds us. Just as other elements of our national cuisine, wine, forged as part of the cultural and climatic mosaic of these lands, reflects the men and sites sheltering it. Let us learn to enjoy the taste sensations that arise from this land nurtured by the strength of the sun, the coolness of the mountain, the fragility of the rain, the delicacy of winter, and the purity of springtime. Wine, as an inherent part of our ingredients, is better understood from the infinite palette of colors that, with a perfectly arbitrary calculation, design the aromas and flavors of our cuisine. The national wine supply spans a broad range of grapes and regions that express dynamism difficult to find in other wine-growing regions of the world. ▲ The wine-growing regions that offer opportunities to practice oenotourism are concentrated in the states of Baja California, Coahuila, and Querétaro. Visits to vineyards, wine cellars, and nearby restaurants round out this singular experience. 66 — Ven a Comer sea and deserT — 67
Page 3 and 4: general COORDINATION: María Luisa
Page 5 and 6: MEXICO IS ONE OF a HANDFUL OF MEGAD
Page 7 and 8: come to eat Mexico n Gloria López
Page 9 and 10: Conquered by Mexico! n joan roca My
Page 11 and 12: Mexican Cuisine, a Millenary Histor
Page 13 and 14: In the same period, Totonac culture
Page 15 and 16: Traditional Mexican Cuisine n marco
Page 17 and 18: Mexican gastronomy today offers wid
Page 19 and 20: CORN Maize is the core of the Mexic
Page 21 and 22: sea and desert sea and desert baja
Page 23 and 24: sea and desert FISH OF THE DAY serv
Page 25 and 26: sea and desert AGUACHILE The sea’
Page 27 and 28: sea and desert COLD AND WARM SHELLF
Page 29 and 30: sea and desert the tomato, Mexican
Page 31 and 32: sea and desert Tomato and serrano c
Page 33: sea and desert Mexican Wine n Hugo
Page 37 and 38: The Central Pacific Coast THE CENTR
Page 39 and 40: The Central Pacific Coast JICAMA AN
Page 41 and 42: The Central Pacific Coast tortas ah
Page 43 and 44: GREEN CEVICHE The Central Pacific C
Page 45 and 46: The Central Pacific Coast THE AVOCA
Page 47 and 48: The Central Pacific Coast Torta de
Page 49 and 50: The Central Pacific Coast May I Off
Page 51 and 52: The Central Pacific Coast coctel ma
Page 53 and 54: etween two oceans between two ocean
Page 55 and 56: etween two oceans FILLED OCOSINGO C
Page 57 and 58: etween two oceans CLAY COOKING POTS
Page 59 and 60: etween two oceans BEAN ROLL serves
Page 61 and 62: etween two oceans Mexico and Its Ch
Page 63 and 64: etween two oceans Cheese soup at Qu
Page 65 and 66: etween two oceans The Many Faces of
Page 67 and 68: etween two oceans containing the wa
Page 69 and 70: t h e NORtheast the northeast Coahu
Page 71 and 72: t h e NORtheast CHILES STUFFED WITH
Page 73 and 74: t h e NORtheast Gulf of Mexico; to
Page 75 and 76: t h e NORtheast PORK BELLY TACOS se
Page 77 and 78: t h e NORtheast Cabrito, Flavor of
Page 79 and 80: t h e NORtheast A plate of cabrito
Page 81 and 82: t h e NORtheast The Navigable River
Page 83 and 84: t h e NORtheast 6 TH place worldwid
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COUNTRY AND CITY country and city a
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COUNTRY AND CITY FLOATING PRICKLY P
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COUNTRY AND CITY taco placero= Tort
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COUNTRY AND CITY LAMB MIXIOTES WITH
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COUNTRY AND CITY maIze GODDESS ILAM
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COUNTRY AND CITY Preparing corundas
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COUNTRY AND CITY pulque n josé N.
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COUNTRY AND CITY with a white (unfl
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T H E Southeast the Southeast campe
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T H E Southeast ONIONS WITH RECADO
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T H E Southeast tiny oblong chile p
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T H E Southeast fish in season, GRE
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T H E Southeast Spiciness for the W
Page 111 and 112:
T H E Southeast The egg that wants
Page 113 and 114:
T H E Southeast Libations of Fire a
Page 115 and 116:
T H E Southeast 27,619 tons of caca
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GLOSSARY 230 — Ven a Comer GLOSSA
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cream, cheese, some sort of shredde
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are two basic kinds: the one that g
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Arisbeth Araujo FOOD WRITER Héctor
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acknowledgments For their recipes:
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