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sea and desert cooked in lime juice with onion, chiles, and cucumber, the local equivalent to ceviche. The predominant flavor of all these seafood preparations is tart. In Durango dishes such as caldillo durangueño, based on dried meat, red chiles, and tomatoes, are prepared. Also worth mentioning are the delicious gallinas borrachas, a plate of hen’s meat prepared with stir-fried sausage, ham, and sherry. Chihuahua and Sonora deserve special mention, apart from their excellent steaks. They are also known for their coyotas sonorenses (sweet turnovers of wheat flour and native brown sugar); burritos (large flour tortilla tacos filled with varied preparations of beef or pork); chimichangas (enormous fried meat-filled flour tortillas); and the impressive discada (several kinds of meat, sausages, and fried vegetables served on a plow disk), which is common to several states in this region. One of the most delicious expressions of modern Mexican cuisine is to be found on the northern border. For many years it was thought that food on the border, with few historical and traditional references, was less representative and, therefore, not a true expression of regional cuisine. Nowadays we can see our gastronomy is totally the opposite. It is authentic in the most modern meaning of the word: it is genuine because it has to do with how the people cook, eat, live, imagine, and savor their food. ▲ Enjoying a good Sonora taco. The cangrejo moro stone crab is a treasure from the Pacific’s cold waters. The new culinary trends of the Northwest are alive and well in Ensenada and other cities. Shellfish cocktails being prepared at a street stand in Ensenada. Machaca for sale in the Culiacán market. The restaurants in Valle de Guadalupe are part of the wine-growing experience. 48 — Ven a Comer sea and deserT — 49
sea and desert COLD AND WARM SHELLFISH MANZANILLA serves 4 | 50 minutes | easy TODAY’S CATCH Restaurants and food stands on the Mexican coasts offer today’s catch of oysters, clams, octopus, shrimp, crab, lobster, and more, prepared in cocktails, tostadas, tacos, and other dishes. n INGREDIENTS Ground dried chiles: 2 guajillo chiles 2 chiles de árbol 2 chiles anchos 2 cascabel chiles 2 morita chiles 2 chipotle chiles, dried Dried garlic Natural salt from San Felipe, Baja California Shellfish: 160 grams pigs feet, boiled and chopped 4 tablespoons onion, chopped 2 tablespoons green chile, chopped Olive oil Sherry vinegar Dry oregano Ground black pepper 4 tablespoons butter from Rancho Ramonetti 2 fresh tarragon leaves 2 shallots, chopped Black pepper, coarsely ground Raspberry vinegar 4 white chione clams, open Gorgonzola cheese 4 small oysters from Bahía Manuela, open 8 medium sized oysters from Bahía Falsa, open PREPARATION Ground dried chiles: Discard the veins from the chiles. Grind to a powder, add garlic and salt; set aside. Shellfish: Mix the pigs feet, onion, green chile, a dribble of olive oil, and vinegar in a bowl. Season with oregano, salt, and pepper. Set aside. Melt the butter in a small frying pan. Remove from stove and add a pinch of powdered chiles and tarragon; keep warm. Mix chopped shallots with black pepper and a dribble of raspberry vinegar. Set aside. Cover the clams with gorgonzola and place them together with the oysters from Bahía Manuela on a grate. Smoke and pour the butter and tarragon on the oysters and the olive oil on the clams. Serve the shellfish on a thick bed of salt on each plate. Spoon the pigs feet salad over the chilled oysters from Bahía Falsa and the shallot mixture over the warmed oysters from Bahía Manuela. BENITO MOLINA AND SOLANGE MURIS 50 — Ven a Comer sea and deserT — 51
Page 3 and 4: general COORDINATION: María Luisa
Page 5 and 6: MEXICO IS ONE OF a HANDFUL OF MEGAD
Page 7 and 8: come to eat Mexico n Gloria López
Page 9 and 10: Conquered by Mexico! n joan roca My
Page 11 and 12: Mexican Cuisine, a Millenary Histor
Page 13 and 14: In the same period, Totonac culture
Page 15 and 16: Traditional Mexican Cuisine n marco
Page 17 and 18: Mexican gastronomy today offers wid
Page 19 and 20: CORN Maize is the core of the Mexic
Page 21 and 22: sea and desert sea and desert baja
Page 23 and 24: sea and desert FISH OF THE DAY serv
Page 25: sea and desert AGUACHILE The sea’
Page 29 and 30: sea and desert the tomato, Mexican
Page 31 and 32: sea and desert Tomato and serrano c
Page 33 and 34: sea and desert Mexican Wine n Hugo
Page 35 and 36: sea and desert 90% of Mexican wines
Page 37 and 38: The Central Pacific Coast THE CENTR
Page 39 and 40: The Central Pacific Coast JICAMA AN
Page 41 and 42: The Central Pacific Coast tortas ah
Page 43 and 44: GREEN CEVICHE The Central Pacific C
Page 45 and 46: The Central Pacific Coast THE AVOCA
Page 47 and 48: The Central Pacific Coast Torta de
Page 49 and 50: The Central Pacific Coast May I Off
Page 51 and 52: The Central Pacific Coast coctel ma
Page 53 and 54: etween two oceans between two ocean
Page 55 and 56: etween two oceans FILLED OCOSINGO C
Page 57 and 58: etween two oceans CLAY COOKING POTS
Page 59 and 60: etween two oceans BEAN ROLL serves
Page 61 and 62: etween two oceans Mexico and Its Ch
Page 63 and 64: etween two oceans Cheese soup at Qu
Page 65 and 66: etween two oceans The Many Faces of
Page 67 and 68: etween two oceans containing the wa
Page 69 and 70: t h e NORtheast the northeast Coahu
Page 71 and 72: t h e NORtheast CHILES STUFFED WITH
Page 73 and 74: t h e NORtheast Gulf of Mexico; to
Page 75 and 76: t h e NORtheast PORK BELLY TACOS se
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t h e NORtheast Cabrito, Flavor of
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t h e NORtheast A plate of cabrito
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t h e NORtheast The Navigable River
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t h e NORtheast 6 TH place worldwid
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COUNTRY AND CITY country and city a
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COUNTRY AND CITY FLOATING PRICKLY P
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COUNTRY AND CITY taco placero= Tort
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COUNTRY AND CITY LAMB MIXIOTES WITH
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COUNTRY AND CITY maIze GODDESS ILAM
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COUNTRY AND CITY Preparing corundas
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COUNTRY AND CITY pulque n josé N.
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COUNTRY AND CITY with a white (unfl
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T H E Southeast the Southeast campe
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T H E Southeast ONIONS WITH RECADO
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T H E Southeast tiny oblong chile p
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T H E Southeast fish in season, GRE
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T H E Southeast Spiciness for the W
Page 111 and 112:
T H E Southeast The egg that wants
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T H E Southeast Libations of Fire a
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T H E Southeast 27,619 tons of caca
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GLOSSARY 230 — Ven a Comer GLOSSA
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cream, cheese, some sort of shredde
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are two basic kinds: the one that g
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Arisbeth Araujo FOOD WRITER Héctor
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acknowledgments For their recipes:
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