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The Central Pacific Coast The jimador is the man who harvests agave plants. His tool is called coa de jima. Rural landscape in the agave-growing zone. “Pineapples” or the hearts of agave plants are baked in ovens. Wood vat, a traditional element for fermenting mezcal. a) Raw materials and equipment (maguey plants, firewood, water, heatresistant stones, earth oven, grinding tools, fermentation vats, microorganisms for fermentation, and a still). 500 3. Crushing the roasted piñas by a stone in a grinding mill to extract the 229.7 thousand liters of mezcal are produced annually according to the Mexican Regulatory Council on Mezcal Quality. n b) Know-how. This is the sensorial memory of a mezcal community, acquired solely by having been born and having grown up there, where aromas, flavors, and textures of the local historical taste are learned. This memory has been accumulated over generations by visiting and meticulous tasting of the region’s cuisine at fiestas and other kinds of get-togethers in which the rules of food and mescal quality are created and reproduced. The stages in mezcal production are: 1. Cutting the ripe maguey or agave, the latter being the generic name of the plant. This process has several names in Spanish: desvire, jima, labrado and rasurada. There are more than a hundred varieties of wild, cultivated, and semi-cultivated maguey with maturities that range from six to twenty-eight years. 2. Roasting or tatemado the maguey cores, called the piña (pineapple) in Spanish, in a stone-lined pit or earth oven. sweet liquid and crush the fibers. 4. Fermenting the syrup and fiber mash in hollow tree trunks, clay pots, leather bags, wood vats, stone tubs, or hollowed out rock. This is done without any chemicals or additives. 5. Distilling. The fermented mash is transferred to stills of a combination of clay, copper, wood, or maguey stalk. A second distillation can be made of the alcohol alone although it depends on the type of still and the local historical taste. There are mezcals of one, two or three distillations, and blends of different types. 6. Blending: adjustment of the degree or percentage of alcohol content. Depending on the historical taste, there are mezcals of between 45 and 81 percent alcohol. This adjustment is done by mixing the strongest million liters Mexico’s tequila production in 2013. Exports that year represented 74 percent. In 1977 it was named a product with a Designation of Origin (D.O.) n 96 — Ven a Comer The Central Pacific Coast— 97
The Central Pacific Coast coctel margarita= Lime + salt + ice + tequila + triple sec parts (the part obtained first in the distillation process (tips or puntas) with the milder parts (tails or colas), verifying the quality by observing the perleado, the aroma and the taste. A mezcal of less than 45 percent alcohol content is not traditional. 2.5 million liters annually is the nation's production of mezcal, with an annual growth of 56%. n Pearleado refers to the pearls or bubbles that form around the edge of the surface when mezcal is poured into a container. The pearls show the alcohol content, the species of maguey used, and the production process. The perleado is the fingerprint of the mezcal that a master mezcal distiller or regional expert knows how to interpret. If the mezcal was made from wild agaves it will have floral aromas and tastes—of a broader variety and depth, unlike mezcal made from cultivated magueys of lesser richness and intensity. Aromas and tastes of earth, dairy, fruit, chiles, spices, vegetables, seeds, flowers, herbs, mushrooms, meat, resins, pulques, iodine and cacao can also be found in mezcal. Mezcal that scrupulously respects historical taste is traditional mezcal; it is given different names according to the region where it is produced (Bacanora, Quitupan, Tuxca, Zihuaquio) or the type of agave used (raicilla, chacaleño, tobalá, lechuguilla, tepemete). Sotol is not made from maguey, rather from a sotol or sereque plant (scientific name: Dasylirion), and is made in the same way as mezcal. There are traditional factories where mezcal and sotol are both made or a joint distillation of both plants. All agave distillates have their origin in traditional mezcal; tequila itself shares this origin, as related by Lázaro Pérez in his Study of agave and socalled mezcal in the state of Jalisco (1887): Several species of maguey are used to make the spirit called “mezcal wine, tequila wine,” or “tequila.” Even though these species are known by different names, all share the name of mezcal. Those names include chino, azul, bermejo, sigüín, moraneño, chato, mano larga, zopilote, and pie de mula. Currently traditional mezcals co-exist with other agave distillates (tequila, for example) made according to rules and objectives distinct from those of local historical tastes or, even, under industrial standards whose aim is to serve a non-specialized Mexican or foreign market. I would also suggest that anyone who wants to try traditional mezcal should do so in a community that respects its historical taste and drink it with dishes from the local cuisine that combine perfectly with their mezcal. Even better is to do it with local people, who are the perfect guides to discover exquisite mezcals that will enrich the traveler’s spirit and the meaning of the journey. Having said all of this, may I offer you a mezcal? ▲ Given the mezcal boom, new spots specializing in mezcal tasting and sales have opened. With respect to tequila, it is served in a small glass called a caballito. Often it is served with salt and lime to soften its flavor. Sangrita is also popularly served with it. Types of tequila include white, young, rested, aged, and extra aged 98 — Ven a Comer The Central Pacific Coast— 99
Page 3 and 4: general COORDINATION: María Luisa
Page 5 and 6: MEXICO IS ONE OF a HANDFUL OF MEGAD
Page 7 and 8: come to eat Mexico n Gloria López
Page 9 and 10: Conquered by Mexico! n joan roca My
Page 11 and 12: Mexican Cuisine, a Millenary Histor
Page 13 and 14: In the same period, Totonac culture
Page 15 and 16: Traditional Mexican Cuisine n marco
Page 17 and 18: Mexican gastronomy today offers wid
Page 19 and 20: CORN Maize is the core of the Mexic
Page 21 and 22: sea and desert sea and desert baja
Page 23 and 24: sea and desert FISH OF THE DAY serv
Page 25 and 26: sea and desert AGUACHILE The sea’
Page 27 and 28: sea and desert COLD AND WARM SHELLF
Page 29 and 30: sea and desert the tomato, Mexican
Page 31 and 32: sea and desert Tomato and serrano c
Page 33 and 34: sea and desert Mexican Wine n Hugo
Page 35 and 36: sea and desert 90% of Mexican wines
Page 37 and 38: The Central Pacific Coast THE CENTR
Page 39 and 40: The Central Pacific Coast JICAMA AN
Page 41 and 42: The Central Pacific Coast tortas ah
Page 43 and 44: GREEN CEVICHE The Central Pacific C
Page 45 and 46: The Central Pacific Coast THE AVOCA
Page 47 and 48: The Central Pacific Coast Torta de
Page 49: The Central Pacific Coast May I Off
Page 53 and 54: etween two oceans between two ocean
Page 55 and 56: etween two oceans FILLED OCOSINGO C
Page 57 and 58: etween two oceans CLAY COOKING POTS
Page 59 and 60: etween two oceans BEAN ROLL serves
Page 61 and 62: etween two oceans Mexico and Its Ch
Page 63 and 64: etween two oceans Cheese soup at Qu
Page 65 and 66: etween two oceans The Many Faces of
Page 67 and 68: etween two oceans containing the wa
Page 69 and 70: t h e NORtheast the northeast Coahu
Page 71 and 72: t h e NORtheast CHILES STUFFED WITH
Page 73 and 74: t h e NORtheast Gulf of Mexico; to
Page 75 and 76: t h e NORtheast PORK BELLY TACOS se
Page 77 and 78: t h e NORtheast Cabrito, Flavor of
Page 79 and 80: t h e NORtheast A plate of cabrito
Page 81 and 82: t h e NORtheast The Navigable River
Page 83 and 84: t h e NORtheast 6 TH place worldwid
Page 85 and 86: COUNTRY AND CITY country and city a
Page 87 and 88: COUNTRY AND CITY FLOATING PRICKLY P
Page 89 and 90: COUNTRY AND CITY taco placero= Tort
Page 91 and 92: COUNTRY AND CITY LAMB MIXIOTES WITH
Page 93 and 94: COUNTRY AND CITY maIze GODDESS ILAM
Page 95 and 96: COUNTRY AND CITY Preparing corundas
Page 97 and 98: COUNTRY AND CITY pulque n josé N.
Page 99 and 100: COUNTRY AND CITY with a white (unfl
Page 101 and 102:
T H E Southeast the Southeast campe
Page 103 and 104:
T H E Southeast ONIONS WITH RECADO
Page 105 and 106:
T H E Southeast tiny oblong chile p
Page 107 and 108:
T H E Southeast fish in season, GRE
Page 109 and 110:
T H E Southeast Spiciness for the W
Page 111 and 112:
T H E Southeast The egg that wants
Page 113 and 114:
T H E Southeast Libations of Fire a
Page 115 and 116:
T H E Southeast 27,619 tons of caca
Page 117 and 118:
GLOSSARY 230 — Ven a Comer GLOSSA
Page 119 and 120:
cream, cheese, some sort of shredde
Page 121 and 122:
are two basic kinds: the one that g
Page 123 and 124:
Arisbeth Araujo FOOD WRITER Héctor
Page 125:
acknowledgments For their recipes:
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