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OCTOBER <strong>15</strong>, <strong>2016</strong><br />

Diwali <strong>2016</strong> Special<br />

33<br />

The Saree: unique in style and universality<br />

Nitin Kumar & Venkat Raman<br />

Of all the<br />

dress<br />

materials<br />

worn<br />

by women in the<br />

world, the <strong>Indian</strong><br />

Saree is unique<br />

in that it is the<br />

only garment that<br />

could be worn by<br />

any person, anytime,<br />

anywhere in<br />

the world.<br />

It also remains<br />

the only garment<br />

that would conform<br />

to any cultural,<br />

age or<br />

income group<br />

in India and<br />

the rest of<br />

the world.<br />

The saree<br />

is also perhaps<br />

the only<br />

garment that could<br />

be worn to preserve the<br />

traditional values of a religion<br />

or society or reflect the modern<br />

trend of exhibitionism and<br />

glamour.<br />

The saree is tailored as costume<br />

by performers of <strong>Indian</strong> classical<br />

dances, including Bharata Natyam<br />

and Kuchipudi. Such costumes<br />

can be worn generally by the person<br />

for whom they are specifically<br />

made.<br />

Show business, including the film<br />

and modeling industry, has glam-<br />

ourised the saree, which according<br />

to some, has gone beyond<br />

the legitimate limits of decency.<br />

The Beginning<br />

Stated to be more than 5000<br />

years old, the <strong>Indian</strong> saree has<br />

been mentioned in the Vedas as<br />

a form of draping to extol the<br />

virtues of a woman.<br />

There are several references<br />

to the fact that for a long time in<br />

South India the saree was one<br />

piece of material that served as<br />

both skirt and veil, leaving the<br />

bosom bare. Even today in some<br />

rural areas it is quite common<br />

for a woman not to wear a choli<br />

(blouse).<br />

In North <strong>Indian</strong> miniature<br />

paintings, (particularly Jain,<br />

Rajasthani and Pahari schools<br />

from the 13th to the 19th centuries),<br />

it seemed to consist of the<br />

diaphanous skirt and an equally<br />

diaphanous veil draped over<br />

a tiny bodice. This style still<br />

survives as the more voluminous<br />

lehanga of Rajasthan and<br />

Gujarat.<br />

Gradually, this skirt and veil<br />

were amalgamated into one garment,<br />

but when and how this<br />

happened is not clear.<br />

Some costume historians believe<br />

that the men’s dhoti, which<br />

is the oldest <strong>Indian</strong> draped garment,<br />

is the forerunner of the<br />

saree. Till the 14th century, the<br />

dhoti was worn by both men<br />

and women.<br />

Thereafter, it is believed that<br />

the women’s dhoti started to become<br />

longer, and the accessory<br />

cloth worn over the shoulders<br />

was woven together with the<br />

dhoti into a single cloth to make<br />

the sari.<br />

Versatile garment<br />

The saree has undergone a<br />

revolution in colour, texture and<br />

quality, with its price ranging<br />

from Rs 200 ($5) to Rs 300,000<br />

($6900). Some sarees, specially<br />

made for the opulent and<br />

for film stars in lavish<br />

productions are said to<br />

have cost more than Rs<br />

500,000 ($11,500) each.<br />

Sarees can be of simple<br />

cotton material or<br />

intricate in design with<br />

gold and silver linings,<br />

embellished with mirrors,<br />

pearls, diamonds<br />

and other precious and<br />

semi-precious stones.<br />

The Saree length<br />

varies from five<br />

yards to 9.5 yards<br />

tied loosely, folded<br />

and pleated<br />

or set to special<br />

styles.<br />

Saree<br />

materials<br />

are<br />

today<br />

converted<br />

into<br />

suits, corporate and evening<br />

wear, party dresses, Salwar<br />

Kameez and even accessories.<br />

Nitin Kumar is the Editor<br />

of exoticindia.com based<br />

in India. The above article<br />

appeared in our November<br />

1, 2012 Diwali Special reproduced<br />

in view of renewed<br />

readers’ interest.<br />

The photograph on the left<br />

shows Anamika Singh, Miss<br />

Inidanz 2012; on the right is<br />

a display of one of the most<br />

expensive<br />

sarees ever<br />

produced.<br />

the season of light...<br />

the perfect reason for getting together<br />

CELEBRATE DIWALI RESPONSIBLY<br />

Oh Calcutta<br />

149-<strong>15</strong>5 Parnell Road, CBD<br />

ohcalcutta.co.nz

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