ONELIFE #33 – English

A NEW COPENHAGEN
Kofoed, who grew up in the countryside himself, in
this way channels his own love for nature into his
cooking, with his creations often offering a modern
twist to traditional Danish dishes and produce.
"At Geranium, we offer an experience that is fuelled
by clarity and diversity. I find that balance very
important. One of my favourite pastimes is to go for
walks in the King’s Garden, where you’ll find a piece of
calm nature right in the middle of the city. I love that
you can have both in the city, and much of what we do
at Geranium is informed by this relationship between
the urban and the natural. We have a rather
philosophical approach that emphasises not just a
culinary experience, but also what can be learned
through observing the elements and the organisms
around us. And Copenhagen is just perfect for that.”
SOMETHING BREWING
Not far from Geranium, another, grittier revolution is
underway, driven almost singlehandedly by Mikkel
Borg Bjergsø. Bjergsø is the founder of craft beer
concept Mikkeller – and probably the best micro
brewer in the world. Starting his business in his kitchen
less than 10 years ago, he is today a cult figure in
microbrewing circles and runs a number of restaurants,
pop-up bars and larger collaborations with
restaurateurs and distributors across the globe.
Mikkeller doesn’t operate from its own brewery, but
has built its following through limited-edition brews
and in-house deals with some of the hippest
microbreweries and beer bars in Denmark
and abroad. This has earned him the nickname, “The
Gypsy Brewer”, as he seems to be always on the move.
Bjergsø says he has noted how the culinary scene
has undergone tremendous change within the past
decade but sees a shift in consumer attitude as equally
important.
“People are without any doubt prioritising
differently. It used to be all about fast food, and Danish
beer was always thin and without any taste. Now,
people are realising that there is more to fine dining
than just French cuisine, wine and champagne. If I had
to point to something Danish or Nordic about how the
scene is looking today, that would be it: regarding
quality and sustainability as standards to strive for in
everything, including beer. It wasn’t always like this.
Just a couple of years ago we had a handful of
microbreweries in Denmark. Now we have more than
130. I think that says it all.”
Back at Nordhavnen, Dan Stubbergaard is paying
careful attention to how the project is developing. Soon,
he and COBE will have to move from their current
offices at the Paper Island, and nowhere seems like a
better fit for the studio than the new Venice of the north.
“We’re naturally really excited,” he says.
“Nordhavnen is of course an incredibly important
project for us, so we are keen to move closer to be
right in the middle of everything. But it’s also important
for the city. Copenhagen is changing for the better and
reaching its true potential. It’s a truly unique feeling to
be a part of it all.”
THE GYPSY BREWER
MIKKEL BORG BJERGSØ
Mikkel Borg Bjergsø (41) is a former school teacher
and elite runner and the founder of microbrewery
Mikkeller. Mikkeller has expanded globally from its
headquarters in Copenhagen in just 10 years and
is today rated as the world’s third-best brewery.
Bjergsø has earned himself a cult-like status as one
of the best beer brewers in the world and is an indemand
speaker at global culinary events. He lives
in Copenhagen with his wife and two daughters.
FAVOURITE PLACE “One of my favourite places
in the city is actually a Chinese restaurant called Fu
Hao, right by the central station. My wife, who’s half
Chinese, introduced me to it and I love going there.
It’s not fancy at all, but it’s very authentic and the
food is great.”
BEST TIP “I’d recommend anyone to go for a
walk at Christiania and have a look at all the crazy
self-built houses around the lakes out there. There
is nothing in the world like Christiania. It’s so unique,
I tell everyone to go see it.” mikkeller.com
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