Textile Directory

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Cavalry twill
This fabric was used in cavalry uniforms, from where
the name originates.
The raised, very pronounced diagonal twill surface is easily
recognized. The high–low effect of the raised diagonal
line followed by the contrasting low surface accentuates
the texture. The fabric has a surprisingly soft drape, which
makes it very comfortable to wear.
Cavalry twill is used for riding pants or other uniquely
tailored jackets and pants. The raised textured surface supports
rounded shaping. This fabric will support more exaggerated
silhouettes. It is sometimes used for tailored men’s and
women’s suits. Its surface texture is very noticeable, from
fine lines to very pronounced diagonal lines.
The high–low
diagonal texture of
a cavalry twill calls
for a simple
garment design. Its
soft drape allows
for easy movement
and beautiful
tailoring details.
Facts and figures
Distinctive features
• Pronounced, raised diagonal surface.
• High–low surface.
Strengths
• Good drape for such a textured fabric.
• Strong fabric.
• Very interesting texture.
Weaknesses
• The pronounced diagonal surface
sometimes creates a matching problem
for designs using many seams.
• May snag easily on the raised
diagonal lines.
• Not easily available.
Usual fiber content
• 100 percent wool or wool blend.
• 100 percent cotton or cotton/blend.
Wool cavalry twill
Wool cavalry twill has a soft hand.
This sample has a subtle diagonal
high–low texture.
Cotton cavalry twill
Cotton cavalry twill is often used in
distinctive casual twill slacks and jackets.
It has a tactile hand and, if a garment is
washed, the surface texture will develop
quite a soft hand.
Two-tone cavalry twill
This two-tone cotton cavalry twill is not as
soft as wool twill but makes an interesting
texture for sportswear. The pronounced
high–low diagonal surface texture is
emphasized by the two colors of yarn used.
Serge • Cavalry twill
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