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Textile Directory

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Oxford<br />

Oxford cloth fabrics are some of the most popular tailored<br />

shirting fabrics, particularly for menswear. The texture is<br />

achieved through an unbalanced basketweave, using one<br />

large filling yarn and pairs of smaller warp yarns.<br />

Oxford cloth is always a top-weight fabric and is sometimes<br />

used in dresses. It cuts easily, holds seams very well, and can<br />

be easily topstitched. It is a traditional fabric in menswear,<br />

used for more casual, button-down collared shirts.<br />

Although this fabric is often produced as a solid color (most<br />

frequently white or pastel colors), the warp yarns can be dyed a<br />

color, and the larger, less tightly spun weft yarn dyed white. The<br />

result creates a subtle two-color visual texture on the fabric surface<br />

known as the “chambray effect,” which has a less formal appearance<br />

than a solid color.<br />

Oxford cloth’s quality is determined by the yarn size, so the<br />

smaller the yarns used, the higher the quality of the fabric. Pinpoint<br />

Oxford is considered a high-quality fabric because long staple cotton<br />

The yarns used in this red/white<br />

chambray Oxford are combed cotton.<br />

The fabric surface is smooth and<br />

somewhat lustrous due to this<br />

finishing technique.<br />

fiber is required to produce the fine, lustrous spun yarns.<br />

The surface of the fabric is lustrous and the yarns are<br />

more tightly woven together. The same basketweave is<br />

used, but the beautiful luster and silky smooth hand of<br />

the fabric is achieved entirely from the high-quality<br />

cotton fiber that is used.<br />

Striped Oxford<br />

Oxford is sometimes produced in yarn-dyed<br />

stripes, as shown here. Oxford stripes place<br />

the colored yarns differently, so warp yarns<br />

are both colored and white. Weft yarn is<br />

always white to give the chambray effect.<br />

The face and back are the same.<br />

Chambray pinpoint Oxford<br />

High-quality cotton fiber must be used for<br />

this fabric, resulting in a luxurious smooth<br />

hand and lustrous visual appeal. The fine,<br />

high-twist cotton yarns used here<br />

distinguish this Oxford.<br />

Chambray Oxford<br />

This fabric uses blue yarns interlaced<br />

with white yarns, creating the chambray<br />

appearance. While most Oxfords are<br />

chambray weaves, solid-color Oxfords<br />

are also available.<br />

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64 Structure

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