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Surface shine: ciré<br />
and chintz<br />
Shine or luster is a very desirable fabric characteristic<br />
that communicates expense or higher quality. Imitating<br />
more expensive shiny or lustrous fabrics through the use<br />
of chintz and ciré finishes have been important ways for<br />
designers to find cheaper alternatives.<br />
Using smooth-surface square-weave cotton fabrics, such as<br />
lawn or calico, the chintz finish is applied for a lustrous<br />
surface. Unfortunately, the chintz finish will only last one<br />
washing. The term “chintzy” comes from this finish name.<br />
Inexpensive calico cotton fabric was “improved” with this lustrous<br />
finish. After one washing, the luster was gone. More durable<br />
chintz finishes are now available, but are more expensive than the<br />
original. The ciré finish, used only on polyester square weaves,<br />
imparts a very glossy finish, looking almost “wet.” The ciré finish<br />
is very durable.<br />
This low-quality,<br />
red cotton fabric<br />
has a more<br />
luxurious<br />
appearance<br />
because of its very<br />
lustrous chintz<br />
finish. This shiny<br />
finish also adds<br />
stiffness to the<br />
fabric, improving<br />
its structure<br />
qualities.<br />
Facts and figures<br />
Distinctive features<br />
• Lustrous, smooth surface for<br />
cotton fabrics.<br />
• “Wet-look,” very glossy, smooth surface<br />
for polyester fabrics.<br />
• Both have a somewhat crisp hand, due<br />
to the finishing.<br />
Strengths<br />
• Lustrous or shiny surface.<br />
• Crisp hand.<br />
• Ciré is a very durable finish.<br />
Weaknesses<br />
• Chintz is a temporary finish, lasting only<br />
one washing or dry cleaning.<br />
• Sewing tension is difficult to control on<br />
both fabrics, so seams often are puckered<br />
due to stitching.<br />
• The fabric cannot be re-sewn, as<br />
original stitching holes may show in<br />
chintzed fabric.<br />
Usual fiber content<br />
• 100 percent cotton for chintz.<br />
• 100 percent polyester for ciré.<br />
Ciré back on this moiré fabric<br />
A ciré finish can be applied to almost any<br />
smooth polyester surface. This sample has<br />
an embossed “wood-grain” appearance on<br />
the face and a ciré finish on the back.<br />
Metallic finish for shine<br />
This rayon/cotton fabric has a metallic<br />
heat transfer applied to the fabric<br />
surface. For the best application, a<br />
fabric blend that contains polyester<br />
or nylon is recommended.<br />
Printed chintz<br />
This square-weave, printed cotton fabric<br />
has been finished with a lustrous, though<br />
temporary, finish. The luster will be removed<br />
after a single washing.<br />
•••<br />
66 Structure
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