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Coated fabrics<br />
Fabrics can be coated with other materials to change the<br />
basic character of the original fabric. For example, a cotton<br />
poplin fabric (see page 61), which does not resist moisture,<br />
can be transformed into a water-resistant fabric by adding<br />
a specific coating, such as a waxed coating.<br />
A<br />
coating is applied for different reasons, so durability is often<br />
related to the coating’s purpose. The coating is applied as a<br />
liquid and spread across the fabric surface; it is then heated<br />
or cured to adhere the coating to the fabric surface. The coating<br />
remains somewhat flexible so the fabric can be sewn and worn<br />
comfortably. Oilskin, wax, and liquid rubber are all natural coatings<br />
applied to fabrics (mostly plain weave fabrics). These coatings<br />
make a fabric water resistant but vary widely in their durability and<br />
ability to maintain water resistance. A polyurethane foam coating<br />
(synthetic petroleum-based coating) added to the back of the fabric<br />
provides padding and insulation.<br />
This printed fabric has a clear coating<br />
on the face side and is intended to be used for<br />
children’s raincoats. The coating on the fabric adds<br />
stiffness to a lightweight cotton broadcloth.<br />
A coating can change the texture, hand, and weight<br />
of a fabric. Usually, a coated fabric is less flexible (it has<br />
a stiff hand), heavier, and often has a more lustrous<br />
surface. Coated fabrics are used almost exclusively for<br />
outerwear garments: raincoats, ski wear, snowboard<br />
apparel, and other outdoor clothing.<br />
Contrast color coating<br />
This foam coating to taffeta is an opaque<br />
coating. It can be colored to add contrast<br />
for design detail. Some foam-coated fabrics<br />
use the coated side as the face side. This<br />
coating is nonporous and is a good waterresistant<br />
fabric.<br />
Matched color coating<br />
This fabric color is the same as the foam<br />
coating. Color-matched coating is a design<br />
concept that gives a more subtle garment<br />
appearance while still retaining the<br />
water-resistant function.<br />
Wax-coated poplin<br />
Wax-coated fabrics show creases easily if<br />
the fabric is crushed. Notice the crease<br />
marks on this cotton poplin fabric surface.<br />
Some designers consider these crease<br />
marks desirable for their design.<br />
•••<br />
114 Structure
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