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Brushed fabrics<br />
Unlike cut-pile fabrics, brushed fabrics roughen the<br />
smooth fabric surface for the purpose of creating a hairy<br />
or fuzzy third dimension, called a “napped” surface.<br />
Napping will feel warm to the touch, so a warm hand<br />
can be a functional result of this finish.<br />
Brushing, or napping, can result in several types of finishes;<br />
some have only recently been developed:<br />
Brushed finish: the fabric is brushed, and a somewhat irregular<br />
hairy surface is the result. This finish is popular for the brushed<br />
back of fleece (see page 182) or bull denim (see page 86), flannel<br />
(see page 76), or flannelette (see page 77).<br />
Peached finish: the fabric is brushed and then shaved to<br />
produce an even, short, hairy surface. The point of this finish is<br />
that it should feel like the skin of a peach. It was invented in the<br />
late 1980s in Japan.<br />
Brushed or napped fabric nearly always has a<br />
soft hand. This cotton fabric has been brushed<br />
to imitate suede leather. Sometimes the fabric<br />
is “sanded” to achieve the suede surface.<br />
Sheared and brushed: After a pile weave is sheared (or<br />
cut), the cut yarns are brushed to create an even finish of<br />
separate fibers for a soft pile. Corduroy (see page 104) and<br />
velveteen (page 102) are both sheared and then brushed<br />
for the expected pile finish.<br />
Sanded finish: produced by fine emery rollers, beginning<br />
with a fine texture and using successively grainier emery<br />
rollers. Fibers are often split into finer segments to create a<br />
very soft surface. Often applied to top-weight and mediumweight<br />
fabrics. Sanding on twill fabrics is especially<br />
appealing because of the short floating yarns.<br />
Sueded finish: produced in a similar manner as above but<br />
usually applied to bottom-weight fabrics. The result of this<br />
finish is to look and feel like sueded leather.<br />
Fleece<br />
Brushed fleece will pill badly. 100 percent<br />
cotton brushed fleece is considered a fire<br />
hazard. When producing a cotton-hand<br />
fleece, polyester is almost always blended<br />
with cotton fiber to reduce the flammability<br />
of brushed cotton fiber.<br />
Peached finish<br />
Peaching, a brushed finish that is shaved to<br />
imitate the skin of a peach, is now applied to<br />
cotton blended fabrics, rayons, and<br />
microfiber polyester fabrics.<br />
Brushed back canvas<br />
This canvas has a polyester face and cotton<br />
yarns on the back side that have been<br />
brushed for a soft hand on the inside of<br />
the fabric.<br />
•••<br />
106 Structure
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