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Practical Photography

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Know Your Stuff<br />

IMAGE BROKER<br />

I’ve recently bought<br />

a 70-300mm lens to<br />

shoot wildlife, but<br />

why are some of my pics<br />

more blurry than those taken<br />

with my kit lens?<br />

Graham Bell, Canterbury<br />

Dan says: Telephoto lenses<br />

have the ability to magnify<br />

a scene and make faraway<br />

subjects, such as birds, appear<br />

much larger. Any lens with<br />

a focal length above 50mm<br />

on a full-frame camera is<br />

classed as telephoto, as<br />

these have a narrower, more<br />

‘zoomed-in’ angle-of-view<br />

than the human eye.<br />

The longer your focal<br />

length, the easier it is for<br />

camera shake to appear, as<br />

any tiny vibrations from<br />

handholding your camera<br />

become more apparent. But<br />

there’s an easy rule you can<br />

follow to stop this distracting<br />

blur from appearing.<br />

Left Take control of your<br />

shutter speed to stop camera<br />

shake when using a lens with<br />

a large focal length.<br />

Why are my telephoto pics blurry?<br />

The trick is to make<br />

sure your shutter speed is<br />

equal to, or higher than the<br />

‘reciprocal’ of your focal<br />

length. This means with a<br />

200mm lens you’ll need to<br />

shoot at 1/200sec or faster to<br />

get a sharp shot. Remember<br />

that on APS-C bodies, such<br />

as Nikon’s D3400, there’s a<br />

crop factor to think about, so<br />

be sure to use the reciprocal<br />

of the full-frame equivalent<br />

shutter speed by multiplying<br />

Above A slow shutter speed will<br />

record small vibrations from<br />

handholding, resulting in blurry<br />

camera shake.<br />

the lens’ focal length by<br />

1.5x first. For example, a<br />

200mm lens on a D3400<br />

effectively becomes 300mm,<br />

so you’ll need a shutter<br />

speed of at least 1/300sec.<br />

The rule gives the minimum<br />

shutter speed for a sharp<br />

shot, but shoot faster if you<br />

can. The technique only stops<br />

camera shake and not subject<br />

blur – for this your minimum<br />

shutter speed depends on the<br />

speed your subject is moving.<br />

Three ways to eliminate camera shake<br />

Watch your shutter speed<br />

To make sure your shutter speed is<br />

equal to, or greater than, the reciprocal<br />

of your focal length, use aperturepriority<br />

mode. Open up the aperture to<br />

let more light in. This may be f/4-5.6 on<br />

a 70-300mm, or f/2.8-4 on a 70-200mm.<br />

If the speed is still too slow, up the ISO.<br />

Frame up on a tripod<br />

Attaching your camera to the top-plate<br />

of a tripod is the best way to ensure a<br />

sharp shot. It eliminates camera shake,<br />

caused by your hands moving when<br />

shooting handheld. Be sure to engage<br />

the 2sec self-timer so you don’t jog the<br />

camera as you press the shutter button.<br />

Use image stabilisation<br />

If your camera has IS it’s worth switching<br />

it on when shooting handheld. It may be<br />

built into your camera body or lens, which<br />

can help get sharp shots when shooting<br />

at slower shutter speeds. But disable this<br />

feature when shooting on a locked-off<br />

tripod as, here, it can introduce blur.<br />

108 PRACTICAL PHOTOGRAPHY

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