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Getting into Adventure Green

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By the fifth round of chocolate<br />

stout and lager cocktails, the whole<br />

sorry tale had come out, and Louis<br />

and Trevor were doing a good job<br />

of slapping some sense <strong>into</strong> me.<br />

They lived nearby and invited me<br />

to stay for a few days. I met their<br />

wives, Martha and Mariana, who<br />

were just as welcoming. The four<br />

of them spoiled me rotten with<br />

extravagant home cooked feasts,<br />

interesting day trips and enough<br />

whiskey to drown a giraffe. It was<br />

like a family Christmas. Exactly the<br />

boost I needed, and not a moment<br />

too soon.<br />

“LET EVENTS<br />

UNFOLD, TRUST<br />

YOURSELF AND<br />

THE WORLD”<br />

At the end of my stay, Trevor rode<br />

me out of the bay, and onto the most<br />

stunning mountain road I’ve ridden.<br />

From there he pointed me to the<br />

one that trumped it - The Swartberg<br />

Pass - A narrow dirt road that carves<br />

its way through hilly, green, coastal<br />

bushland, before unexpectedly<br />

straddling the jagged crest of a rain<br />

shadow casting mountain ridge, to<br />

reveal a desolate and rocky, Marslike<br />

landscape.<br />

I had a very long, very satisfying<br />

cigarette, then whooped like kid on a<br />

roller-coaster as I descended <strong>into</strong> the<br />

deep red gorge below. Gob-smacked<br />

by this drastic and truly enormous<br />

scenery, and emotionally revitalised<br />

by the kindness I’d received, I<br />

knew it had begun. I fell <strong>into</strong> the<br />

adventure, ready and excited for<br />

whatever it would throw up next.<br />

From then on in, the trip was about<br />

connecting with people from around<br />

the world, learning from local<br />

cultures, and filling my memory<br />

bank with beauty – not about my<br />

mileage, or keeping up a blog, or<br />

riding home to someone who may<br />

or may not have moved on.<br />

By taking it one step at a time,<br />

opening up to people around me,<br />

and making a conscious effort<br />

to be in the moment, I was able<br />

to continue wiggling up through<br />

Southern and Eastern Africa for<br />

nine months; hopping from one<br />

merry band to another, before my<br />

bank balance finally dragged me<br />

home from Nairobi.<br />

They were the most exciting and<br />

eye-opening nine months I’ve<br />

had, of which memories, both<br />

good and bad, are now life lessons<br />

and conduits to a humbling shift<br />

in perspective. I’d encourage<br />

anyone considering a big overland<br />

adventure to make it happen.<br />

Let events unfold, trust yourself<br />

and the world, and explore your<br />

unknown. It’s easier than you think.<br />

Just go.<br />

PLANNING YOUR OWN AFRICAN<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

Africa is a big place. It would take a lifetime to explore properly. A solid<br />

option is to start in the south and explore the southern regions. Plenty of<br />

guided and self guided tours cater for this (such as Kaapstad Tours and Jo<br />

Rust), with bike rental readily available in Cape Town/Johannesburg.<br />

For Rob’s trip he needed a Carnet de Passage for his bike as he was<br />

freighting it in from England. The Carnet cost £1550, £800 of which is<br />

returned when he and the bike returned to the UK. Flying the bike was<br />

£1200 from London to Cape Town with James Cargo, and the same cost<br />

from Nairobi to London. You can save yourself time and money by buying<br />

a bike in South Africa, which you wouldn’t then need a Carnet for (a<br />

Carnet is for when temporarily importing a foreign registered vehicle <strong>into</strong><br />

a country that requests one on entry - see www.overlandingassociation.<br />

org for more information).<br />

That website is also a great source of information on visa requirements,<br />

with some countries possible to get at land borders, whilst others have to<br />

be applied for ahead. In terms of safety and ease of passage, the eastern<br />

route through Africa is more palatable than the west, though both are<br />

possible. Horizons Unlimited is the website you need for all trip planning.<br />

www.horizonsunlimited. com<br />

The Swartberg Pass

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