The Iranian Revolution at 30

After the Tehran Spring
Kian Tajbakhsh
Ten years ago, in the summer of 1998, I arrived in Tehran after an absence of more
than two decades. Three vignettes describe some of what I experienced and why I decided
to stay.
The Mayor. I am in a shared taxi with an architect friend who is pointing out some re-
cent developments in the city. We are squeezed in the front passenger seat, three men in
the back. The taxi’s radio is on, and all are listening intently to the live broadcast of the
trial of Tehran’s high profile and dynamic mayor, Gholamhosein Karbaschi, the Robert
Moses of Tehran, was on trial on thin charges of embezzlement, although most believed
it was political retribution for contributing to Muhammad Khatami’s 1996 presidential
election victory. Judge: “Is it not true that you controlled a number of personal accounts
and moved money around them thereby violating financial laws?” Taxi Driver breaks
in: “Agghhh! That Karbaschi! He’s lining his pockets just like all the others. What has he
done for this city all these years? Nothing! Absolutely nothing!”
We break through some gnarled traffic and enter a wide urban highway winding down
around several hillocks, all bright green, full of flowerbeds, sprinklers busy, a big clock
sculpted into the face in rocks and plants. My architect friend: “This is a brand new road
system opened only a few months ago. It has finally connected two parts of the city
and eased the flow from the west to the north of the city. The landscaping? Oh that’s
standard for almost all urban redevelopment.” On hearing this, the Taxi Driver broke in
again: “Are you kidding me? (so to speak). That Karbaschi is a genius! I should know. I
drive all day. Before him this city was a mess, it was unlivable. All these new roads are
great and the city has turned a new leaf.” Later when I had decided to write a book on
urban policy and local government in Iran I always reminded myself that pinning down
what ordinary people thought about their city would not be straightforward!
The Park. An old friend calls at about 10 pm: “want to go for a spin? You’ll see something
of the city too.” “Well, ye s… but isn’t it late?” Friend arrives at 11:30. By midnight
we are at Park-e Mellat (the People’s Park) the largest in the city. With difficulty we find
a parking space, the entire area is jammed with cars and people. “We’re going into the
park now?” (Anyone who lived in New York in the 1980s would understand the incredulity.)
But of course we entered — like the hundreds, yes hundreds of large extended
families with small children carrying blankets, gas cookers, huge pots of food, canisters
of tea. The weather is superb. Families are laying around, children playing ball or bad-
Kian Tajbakhsh works as an
international consultant in
the areas of local government
reform, urban planning, social
policy, and social science
research. Dr. Tajbakhsh has
consulted for several international
organizations such
as the World Bank, the Netherlands
Association of Municipalities
(VNG-Int.) and
the open Society Institute.
He received his M.A. from
University College, london
in 1984, and a Ph.D. from
Columbia University, New
york City in 1993.
16 The Middle East Institute Viewpoints: The Iranian Revolution at 30 • www.mideasti.org