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CITY BREAKS
SALCOMBE
Clockwise from left:
aerial view of Salcombe;
families by the waterfront;
Overbeck’s gardens;
South Sands hotel;
East Portlemouth beach;
fresh crab; surfboards at
the beach; Salcombe
Dairy ice cream; view
from the South Sands
hotel; cream tea
Seaside traditions meet elegant coastal style in this upmarket Devon town, where
the seafood draws diners as much as the cream teas, says Imogen Lepere
Why go? This compact South Hams town has all the nostalgia
of traditional seaside holidays teamed with a healthy dash of
cosmopolitan flair. Although it has its fair share of high-profile
visitors – Led Zeppelin, Mary Berry and former England rugby
coach Sir Clive Woodward to name a few – understatement is
the fashion, unlike less demure resorts in neighbouring Cornwall.
Tanned yachties pad down Fore Street in bare feet, smart women
sip coffee and order up cream teas outside cafés and Mini
Boden-clad children congregate at Cranch’s sweet shop before
going crabbing on the waterfront. Built slightly inland to protect it
from piracy, the town meanders along the Salcombe Estuary and
beautiful sandy coves can be reached by a rickety ferry. From
30 July, the annual week-long regatta brings tourists, boat races,
sandcastle-building competitions and beach parties.
What to do The coast is truly remarkable in the morning, so get up
early and enjoy the walk to Bolt Head. The 6km clifftop path snakes
through heathland speckled with sea campion and scented by
gorse and the jagged red cliffs create some of the most dramatic
scenery on the South West Coast Path. Salcombe is the sailing
capital of Devon and it even has a signature vessel, the Salcombe
Yawl. Learn to sail one of these wooden boats (which are still
handmade in town) and explore the coast with a local fisherman
01548 561 619, salcombeinformation.co.uk. Visit Overbeck’s
nationaltrust.org.uk, a fascinating house with a semi-tropical
garden that once belonged to eccentric scientist Otto Overbeck.
Catch the ferry across the river to East Portlemouth beach but be
sure to return in time to explore the many modish boutiques. Bibi &
Mac bibiandmac.co.uk on Fore Street sells a selection of designer
labels, while Hope Cove Gallery hopecovegallery.com on Island
Street showcases home-grown painting talent.
Where to stay Until recently, most people chose to rent petite
townhouses from companies such as Toad Hall Cottages 01548
202 020, toadhallcottages.co.uk as hotels were a bit tired.
Travel information
Currency is the pound. Time zone is GMT. Flight to Salcombe
from Dubai is 11 hours. The cost to carbon-offset this trip is
$17.41. For more details, see climatecare.org
Getting there
Emirates flies to Exeter via Paris daily emirates.com
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
However, in the past few years three have received the Farrow
& Ball treatment and emerged as stylish boltholes. South Sands
01548 845 900, southsands.com is a boutique option on a
sheltered beach with just 22 bedrooms. We recommend the J
Class room, which has twin claw-foot bathtubs in a bay window
and a large private balcony. On a hill overlooking the estuary,
Salcombe Harbour Hotel 01548 844 444, salcombe-harbourhotel.co.uk
is the most luxurious option. Binoculars and gin and
tonic come as standard and many of the 50 rooms have vintage
touches such as art deco dressing tables. If you’re looking for a
little pampering, the spa has a beautiful pool and offers treatments
inspired by the sea, including hot shell massages and salt scrubs.
Nostalgically named Sunny Cliff Hotel & Apartments 01548 842
207, sunnycliff.co.uk is a collection of seven serviced suites and
studios. Good value and cheerful, they’re ideal for families.
Where to eat and drink The husband-and-wife team behind The
Crab Factory on Fish Quay have been producing hand-picked
crabmeat since 1995 and they have now opened an informal
restaurant where you can try the best of their catch. Eating
shellfish on The Crab Shed’s 01548 844 280, crabshed.com
waterfront terrace is the closest you can get to the sea without
getting wet. Continuing the shellfish theme, The Jetty 01548 844
444, salcombe-harbour-hotel.co.uk has an entire crustacean
menu and an elegant dining room that works well for an occasion.
The Winking Prawn 01548 842 326, winkingprawngroup.co.uk
is a fantastic choice for a family meal. It specialises in enormous
sandwiches and is practically on North Sands beach, so little ones
can explore the rock pools while they wait. Make sure to finish with
a cannonball-sized scoop of Salcombe Dairy ice cream.
Time running out? Agatha Christie’s holiday home, Greenway, is
a lush haven just 19km from Salcombe. nationaltrust.org.uk
Trip tip The estuary tides are strong so be careful when swimming
and be sure to buy a tide timetable from a local newsagent.
Resources
Salcombe Tourist Information is the local tourist board’s online
resource and is packed full of ideas. salcombeinformation.co.uk
Further reading
Song of Salcombe by Virginia Murch (Upfront Publishing, $19)
is a fascinating history of the town told through the true story of a
local family.
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Photos by Salcombe Tourist Information Centre; devonscenes.co.uk; Mark Parren Taylor
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA