May 2017

The wine guide
of the vineyards and traditional methods of
production.
Taste eruption
These wines come from idyllic rural locations
on the top of high mountains, far away from the
mainstream agricultural districts and intensive
farming. They are hidden little gems which we are
happy to discover and share with our customers.
This month Vinarius announces two succulent
volcanic wines directly and exclusively imported
from the producers. Soto de Zemtinar,
Encomienda de Cervera (rrp £10.45) and Etna
Rosso, Tenuta Bastonaca (rrp: £22.45).
In the first case the vineyards are located at the
hearth of the Volcanic Massif Campo de Calatrava
in Spain at an altitude between 750m and 850m,
inside the Maar de Hoya de Cervera National
Park.
Etna Rosso is from a very small vineyard on the
top of the tallest active volcano in Europe (Etna
in Sicily) and uses 80% Nerello Mascalese, 20%
Nerello Cappuccio.
Eugenio Ciccarelli explains
why volcanic wines are
worth exploring
Volcanoes can destroy and create landscape,
terrify neighbours, and sometime even modify
our climate.
Medium-bodied and fresh, the first wine, with a
soft palate and a lingering finish. Full-bodied with
a refined tannin and nice smokiness, the second.
Vinarius is a wine merchant and enoteca located at
536 Roman Road, E3. It regulary organises tasting
events, check vinarius.london for details.
But volcanic soils are full of nutrients (minerals
in particular) and are usually very dark in
colour, both of which help vines to bear rich,
concentrated grapes.
Although no scientific study has ever shown
a direct connection between the presence of
various minerals in the soil and the aromas of
the final product, wines grown on volcanic soils
often have several characteristics in common:
fresh acidity, evident minerality and a distinct
character and longevity.
Two additional elements can influence the quality
of the wine from volcanic areas: the altitude
LOVEEAST MAY 2017 33