BWT Travel Guide

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Sedge for example), checked a record-shot
against the Collins Guide app – and added
Moustached Warbler to the list.
There was impressive waterside
birding, with up-close Wood Sandpipers,
Ringed Plover, Greenshank, and perhaps
my favourite ‘Acro’ – a super-sized reed
warbler, chuntering out a sore throat song
– Great Reed Warbler. A ‘wet-my-lips’
Quail stayed invisible and some distant
marsh terns evaded ID at first, but
succumbed later, a dozen buoyant-in-theair
breeding plumage Black Terns.
We travelled further up the karst field,
through Montagu’s Harrier habitat, seeing
male and female, and loitered by a
still-flooded part of this remarkable area,
adding Redshank, Lapwing, and later,
Spotted Redshank, which obliged us with
a view of wings and rump.
A Bittern boomed, and a Hobby hunted,
then perched, giving a glorious view of
this always-good-to-see falcon.
Enticement enough, but nothing
compared to last spring’s spectacle of
a thousand or so Red-footed Falcons.
This one karst field is home to about 400
calling Corn Crakes. They were silent in
our presence – but the nocturnal
soundscape must be incredible.
Day three kicked off at a former
recreation centre with mature trees and
open habitat near the Buna and Bunica
rivers, not far from our Mostar guest
house. There was fluty Golden Oriole
song, rich Nightingale song, and the
sound of Wrynecks, which are
woodpeckers, albeit small and peculiar
ones, and we saw several. A Turtle Dove
purred, a Hoopoe
poo-poo-pooed, a
Spotted Flycatcher
spotted flies, and a
rain-sodden Hobby
just sat in a tree.
Our guide had
a guaranteed spot
for Lesser Spotted
Woodpecker – a nest
site. We watched and
waited, but the
woodpecker proved to
be completely un-spotted! Denis has
6 World Birding 2016
Sand Martins
been back since and seen the Lesser Spot,
as well as Wryneck and Syrian
Woodpecker, all at their nests and all
from the same spot!
The more open, slightly scrubby habitat
provided good birding, too, with plenty of
Whinchats, four Whitethroats in two
bushes, and seven paint-palette Bee-eaters
on a wire. Later, over a riverside lunch
with Golden Oriole accompaniment,
Syrian Woodpecker came our way,
prompting discussion over its ID. The
head markings were good for Syrian, but
the vent was as red as a Great Spot’s and
we couldn’t see any flank streaks.
Helpfully, the Collins guide describes
the head markings as the ‘safest feature’.
We finished the day with a convincing
view of a Middle Spotted Woodpecker,
a calling Quail, Tree Sparrows, and a
Rock Partridge,
through a rainy
windscreen!
yellower-than-yellow Golden Oriole.
I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve been
with as many Golden Orioles.
The village of Blagaj is only about
seven miles from Mostar as the oriole
flies. Famed for its historic Dervish
Monastery, Blagaj sits at the source of the
Buna, against a massive, cliff-face
backdrop. This was once home to Griffon
Vultures, but alas, no more, so after
walking past pomegranate bushes, we
contented ourselves with Alpine Swift,
Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martins, Dipper
and Grey Wagtail.
Podrelezje Plateau gave me my first
encounter with subalpine karst fields,
with Wood Lark, Eastern Subalpine
Warbler and more Bee-eaters. We pulled
up for coffee and I opened the van door.
A Lesser
Whitethroat rattled,
a Wood Warbler
trilled, and two
Hawfinch showed
themselves nearby!
We strolled past an
Blidinje Nature
Park
early Christian cemetery, then an early
Muslim cemetery. This country has plenty
of history and plenty of birds. An Eastern
Orphean Warbler took to the wing – big
and grey with a dark head. Then Blackeared
Wheatear. There are two morphs of
this bird, pale-throated and blackthroated.
We saw both, and a pristine
black-throated sang for us – buzzy and
scratchy. A very different sound reached
our ears, too, as the local mosque
signalled prayer time.
We headed on. A Tawny Pipit showed
us the dark centres on its coverts, but the
Rock Thrush behind distracted, as did
Hutovo Blato
Marshlands