September 2017 Digital Issue

STICKIN’ 

WITH 

CHICKEN 

Why chicken is 

still Canada’s 

favourite protein 

A TASTE 

OF CANADA 

Canadian chefs share their 

favourite regional recipes 

PLUS 

THE 

COFFEE 

& TEA 

REPORT 

CANADIAN PUBLICATION MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT #40063470 

How industry changes are affecting labour supply 

SEPTEMBER 2017 $4.00

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VOLUME 50, NO. 5 | SEPTEMBER 2017 

FEATURING: THE 2017 LABOUR REPORT 

DAVID PARKINS [COVER ILLUSTRATION]; SHANNON-MAY PRINGLE [CHEF CHRIS AERNI PORTRAIT]; iSTOCK.COM/ROBERTHYRONS [DOMINO EFFECT]; DIGITALTRENDS.COM [RIPPLE MAKER COFFEE] 

28 

THE COFFEE & TEA 

REPORT 

P. 43 

FEATURES 

16 STICKIN’ WITH CHICKEN 

See how operators are reinventing 

this popular protein 

23 FRESH START 

Subway’s Fresh-Forward design 

has arrived in Canada 

28 THE LABOUR REPORT 

The restaurant industry is facing 

myriad challenges when it comes to staffing 

35 OH! CANADA 

Canadian chefs share their favourite 

regional recipes 

43 COFFEE & TEA REPORT 

Specialty beverages have become 

a key focus for operators 

53 SHOW PREVIEW 

An early look at the annual 

Coffee & Tea Show 

55 EQUIPMENT TRENDS REPORT 

Globally inspired kitchen equipment 

is on the rise in Canada 

64 

DEPARTMENTS 

2 FROM THE EDITOR 

5 FYI 

15 FROM THE DESK OF 

ROBERT CARTER 

64 CHEF’S CORNER: 

Chris Aerni, Rossmount 

Inn, New Brunswick 

16 

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM 

SEPTEMBER 2017 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 1

FROM THE EDITOR 

ISN’T IT 

TIME? 

Ask operators what keeps them awake at night and 

undoubtedly staffing will surface as the number-1 

issue. In an industry that struggles with high turnover, 

hiring, training and retaining personnel is 

a daunting task. As if matters aren’t challenging 

enough, recent changes to the minimum-wage legislation in 

several provinces are exacerbating an already untenable situation 

(see story on p.28) and ongoing debate over tipping is creating 

intense dialogue and division. 

Most operators acknowledge the importance of paying staff a 

fair wage and myriad operators do a commendable job, but are 

they the norm or the exception? Rising costs, increased government 

intervention and low profit margins make running a restaurant 

challenging at the best of times, with many analysts suggesting 

recent changes to the minimum wage will prove detrimental, 

not only to operators but to workers, too, creating reduced job 

opportunities — especially for teenagers and immigrants. 

Recently, a group of 53 economic experts, cited in a release 

from the Fraser Institute, dismissed this widely held belief as “fear 

mongering” and “out of line with the latest economic research.” 

Yet, in a new academic study done at the University of Waterloo 

in Ontario, professors Kate Rybczynski and 

Anindya Sen measured the employment effects 

of 185 changes to minimum wage in Canada’s 

provinces from 1981 to 2011 and found a 

10-per-cent increase (much lower than the 

32-per-cent increase the government is implementing 

over the next 18 months) lead to up to 

a four-per-cent drop in teenage employment. 

As we were going to press, the Ontario government 

admitted the dramatic increase in the 

minimum wage will hurt jobs and businesses 

and has now promised to look at ways to lessen 

the impact of its policy. 

Clearly, the industry is at a crossroads and 

new solutions are needed. And while it may 

be reassuring to see some relief in sight, the 

industry must still come to terms with labour 

challenges. In a world where disruption is de 

rigueur, isn’t it time the industry stops viewing 

itself as a pit-stop to something better? Isn’t it time the industry 

deals with its perceived shortcomings and become more professional 

in its approach? Isn’t it time for the industry to measure 

itself against other industries, and other countries that have dealt 

successfully with similar issues, and learn through their experiences? 

More importantly, isn’t it time the industry gets proactive 

on this issue before government feels the need to step in? Finally, 

if the industry’s traditional operating model is no longer sustainable 

and doesn’t provide the necessary profit margins to succeed, 

then isn’t it time to change the model? 

ROSANNA CAIRA rcaira@kostuchmedia.com 

@foodservicemag 

facebook.com/foodservicehospitalitymagazine 

instagram.com/rosannacaira 

NICK WONG, LOCATION PROVIDED BY VIA CIBO 

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY SEPTEMBER 2017 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

EST. 1968 | VOLUME 50, NO. 5 | SEPTEMBER 2017 

EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA 

ART DIRECTOR MARGARET MOORE 

MANAGING EDITOR AMY BOSTOCK 

ASSISTANT EDITOR DANIELLE SCHALK 

SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR TOM VENETIS 

MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK RAE 

GRAPHIC DESIGNER COURTNEY JENKINS 

SOCIAL MEDIA/EVENTS CO-ORDINATOR JHANELLE PORTER 

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER/U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST 

ACCOUNT MANAGER MARIA FAMA VIECILI 

ACCOUNT MANAGER ELENA OSINA 

ACCOUNT MANAGER CHERYLL SAN JUAN 

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT DANNA SMITH 

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS 

CONTROLLER DANIELA PRICOIU 

ADVISORY BOARD 

CARA OPERATIONS KEN OTTO 

CRAVE IT RESTAURANT GROUP ALEX RECHICHI 

FAIRFAX FINANCIAL HOLDINGS LIMITED NICK PERPICK 

FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER 

FRESHII MATTHEW CORRIN 

JOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNES 

KATIE JESSOP REGISTERED DIETITIAN KATIE JESSOP 

LECOURS WOLFSON LIMITED NORMAN WOLFSON 

WELBILT JACQUES SEGUIN 

SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, 

UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMS 

SENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT DAVID LIPTON 

SOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOS 

SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULD 

THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON 

THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN 

UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE 

To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com 

Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd., 

23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888, 

Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceandhospitality.com. 

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RETURN MAIL TO: Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, 

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Restaurants Canada. We acknowledge the financial support of the 

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the Department of Canadian Heritage. Printed in Canada on recycled 

stock. 


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FYI 

MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY 

iSTOCK.COM/WILDPIXEL; iSTOCK.COM/JULOS [BURGER DEVIL] 

Safety:10 in 

CHANGING TASTES 

Canada’s Food Guide is set to be overhauled 

for the first time in nearly a decade BY AMY BOSTOCK 

Trim:10.875 in 

Beed:11.125 in 

The Canadian government is 

preparing to release a new 

version of Canada’s Food 

Guide — the first update 

since 2007 — and experts 

say it’s been a long-time coming. 

“It needs an overhaul,” says 

Joshna Maharaj, executive chef, The 

Gladstone Hotel in Toronto. “There 

are a number of things that are currently 

problematic about it. The most 

glaring is the meat and dairy — the 

place of priority they hold and the 

suggestion that we should be consuming 

much larger amounts than our 

bodies actually need.” 

A recent story by CBC News contends 

the current guide is “too deferential 

to the food industry and fails in 

its mission to promote healthy eating.” 

“It gets political because we know 

there is a solid lobby effort behind 

promoting the foods that end up on 

the food guide,” agrees Maharaj. 

Kate Comeau, dietitian and spokesperson 

for Ottawa-based Dietitians 

of Canada, says any changes should 

be based on evidence, including con- 

Other proposed 

changes to 

Canada’s 

Food 

Guide 

include a 

regular diet of 

“vegetables, 

fruit, whole 

grains and 

protein-rich 

foods — 

especially 

plant-based 

sources of 

protein,” 

and explicitly 

warns against 

PROCESSED 

FOODS 

high in sodium, 

sugar and 

saturated fat. 

sultations with Canadians. For operators, 

she says this could mean shifting 

practices and working with suppliers 

to source new ingredients to meet 

consumer demand or fall in line with 

provincial policies that could come 

to light. 

The update, says Maharaj, offers 

an opportunity for the foodservice 

industry. “We’re naive if we’re not 

connected to how nutritionally sound 

the food is we’re serving.” 

She says she’s encouraged to see 

fruits and vegetables being put to the 

forefront and the number of meat and 

dairy servings dialed back. “The piece 

that could still be addressed is how 

the food was raised — commercial 

agriculture, organic — those priorities 

haven’t been articulated yet and 

clearly that is the next step.” 

“We’re going to have to walk before 

we run on this but I’d like to get to a 

place where the voice from Canada’s 

Food Guide and the opinion of the 

population both push operators to 

consider the growing integrity and 

source of the food they’re serving.” 

For its part, “The foodservice 

industry [needs to] step up and be a 

part of the consultation process,” she 

adds. “Historically, chefs and cooks 

have been left out of these conversations. 

We should be more involved 

in the conversation. Right now, it’s in 

the hands of the medical and health 

world but it needs to be shared with 

the culinary world.” 

One of the most common criticisms of Canada’s Food Guide is that it recommends too much food for a healthy diet. Yoni 

Freedhoff, an assistant professor of family medicine at the University of Ottawa, told CBC News “the current model is focused 

on ensuring specific nutrient requirements are met, as opposed to encouraging a broad-based diet.” Chef Joshna Maharaj of 

The Gladstone Hotel in Toronto says there’s no other defined guideline about what healthy eating looks like “so there’s a lot 

of pressure on [the revised guide] to be a lot more than it actually is right now.” 



FYI 

CANADIAN 

CONNECTION 

More than 200 chefs from around 

the world will compete at semi-final competitions 

for the 2018 S.Pellegrino Young Chef 

Competition. Canada’s 10 semi-finalists 

include Alessandro Bergamo (Maison 

Boulud, Montreal), Benjamin Mauroy- 

Langlais (Automne, Montreal), Dominic 

Giroux (L’Atelier de Joël 

Robuchon, Montreal), Jean- 

Philippe Cloutier (Beckta 

Dining & Wine, Ottawa), 

John Ngo (Ritz-Carlton, 

Toronto), Mark Classen 

(Villa Eyrie Resort, Malahat, 

B.C.), Oh Jun Kwon (Omaw, 

Toronto), Amanda Lambert 

(North 44, Toronto), Jorge 

Muñoz Santos (Bar Oso, 

Whistler, B.C.) and Yoann 

Therer (Araxi Restaurant, 

Brackendale, B.C.). 

Chef hopefuls will compete 

against each other and 

the clock at the Canadian semi-finals on 

October 2 at the Art Gallery of Ontario in 

Toronto. On-stage feedback will be provided 

in front of a live audience. 

Quarter-page Vertical Ad_Layout_Final2.pdf 3/8/17 8:50:55 PM 

COMING 

EVENTS 

SEPT. 18 Women in Tourism and Hospitality 

Conference, Park Hyatt Hotel, Toronto. Tel: 416- 

447-0888, ext. 235; email: dpricoiu@kostuchmedia.com; 

website: hoteliermagazine.com/ 

women-tourism-hospitality 

OCT. 5 Icons & Innovators Breakfast Series with 

Jamie Kennedy, Chelsea Hotel, Toronto. Tel: 416- 

447-0888, ext. 235; email: dpricoiu@kostuchmedia.com; 

website: foodserviceandhospitality. 

com/icons-innovators 

OCT. 18 Restaurants for Change, various locations. 

Tel: 416-461-5270; email: nicole@thesirengroup.com; 

website: restaurantsforchange.ca 

OCT. 25-19 Devour! The Food Film Fest, Wolfville, 

N.S., email: film@devourfest.com; website: 

devourfest.com 

FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT 

http://bit.ly/FHevents 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

MANGIA! 

EAST SIDE MARIO’S HELD its annual pasta challenge in June, partnering 

with Barilla Canada. The second-annual competition, held at George 

Brown’s Chef’s House, was open to all East Side Mario’s back-of-thehouse 

staff nationwide with the aim to give young talent the opportunity 

to be mentored by industry experts from East Side Mario’s and Barilla. 

The six competitors were tasked with 

creating an original recipe featuring pasta 

and providing an Italian-inspired eating 

experience for the panel of judges, which 

featured Foodservice and Hospitality’s editor/publisher 

Rosanna Caira; Sean Denney, 

director of Marketing, East Side Mario’s; 

Rob Carmichael, VP, East Side Mario’s; 

chef Lorenzo Boni, executive chef, Barilla 

America; Gino Rulli, VP and GM, Barilla 

Canada; and Chef John Higgins, director, 

Corporate Chef, George Brown College. 

Miranda McLaughlin from East Side 

East Side Mario’s Pasta Challenge 

Mario’s Pembroke location was chosen as 

winner Miranda McLaughlin 

this year’s winner for her recipe of Lemon 

Shrimp Spaghettini. Her dish will now be 

showcased as a new menu item at East Side restaurants across Canada. 

Contestants included Alex Domingo, Calgary Shawnessy; Megan Nicolaidis, 

Brantford, Ont.; Chloé Dutremble, Bromont, Que; Cory Hemington, 

Pembroke, Ont.; and Melissa Gangl, Waterloo University, Waterloo, Ont. 


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FYI 

TOP HONOUR 

René-Luc Blaquière and Peter 

McAuslan have been appointed 

to the Order of Canada. 

Blaquière, executive advisor, Institut de 

tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Quebec (ITHQ) 

Foundation, was selected in recognition of his 

contributions to the promotion of Quebec 

cuisine and the development of the hotel 

industry in Canada and abroad. He participated 

in the development of the ITHQ 

and its foundation and in December 2016, 

celebrated 50 years of active involvement. 

McAuslan, founder of Montreal-based 

McAuslan Brewing is being recognized for his 

“pioneering contributions” to Canada’s craftbrewing 

industry, as well as his support for 

arts, heritage and culture initiatives in Montreal. 

He founded the brewery in 1989 and it has 

since become one of Quebec’s foremost 

micro-breweries. 

Blaquière and McAuslan were among 99 

new appointees announced by Gov. Gen. David 

Johnston on June 30. 

RESTO BUZZ 

The team behind The Berlin is opening Graffiti 

inside Catalyst 137 in Kitchener, Ont. The new restaurant, 

the second joint venture for chef Jonathan 

Gushue and foodservice veteran Ryan Lloyd-Craig, 

will include a craft brewery, retail market, bakery, 

coffee roaster and patio…King Taps has opened in 

Toronto’s Financial District, taking over the space 

that previously housed Vertical restaurant. The 

craft-beer-focused restaurant boasts two floors, 

each with its own patio and bar…David Wu has opened Rhinofish in Vancouver’s Chinatown. 

The noodle bar specializes in niu rou mian (beef noodles) made with local fresh ingredients. 

The menu also features Gua Bao — Taiwanese steambun with pork belly ($5.50); deep-fried 

fish cakes ($6.50); and a pork belly rice bowl ($9.50)…Montreal-based porchetta-sandwich 

stand Porco has launched a bricks-and-mortar location. The restaurant’s menu features the 

sandwich that started it all ($9), along with items such as a salumi and cheese board ($16), 

salads ($13 to $17) and poutine ($7.50)…Grant van Gameren’s latest project has opened in 

Toronto’s Parkdale neighbourhood. Tennessee Tavern offers a variety of Slavic-inspired fare 

such as schnitzel, cabbage rolls and pierogies. The kitchen of the 88-seat eatery is helmed 

by chef Brett Howson. 

Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz 

Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to 

tvenetis@kostuchmedia.com. 

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FYI 

IN BRIEF 

A U.S.-based association has been formed 

to represent Tim Hortons franchisees south 

of the border. Called the Great White North 

Franchisee Association USA (GWNFA USA), the 

association is represented by Robert Zarco and 

Robert M. Einhorn of Zarco Einhorn Salkowski & 

Brito P.A. (ZESB)…As part of Buffalo Wild Wings, 

Inc.’s portfolio-optimization program, the 

company plans to sell several of its company-owned 

restaurants. Buffalo Wild Wings has 

chosen 83 restaurants in Canada, Central and 

Eastern Pennsylvania, Northeast U.S., South 

Texas and Washington, D.C. to be refranchised… 

Papa John’s national Facebook page now allows 

customers to order pizza directly through the 

social-media platform with a newly launched 

Start Order feature…Domino’s Pizza customers 

in Germany and the Netherlands my soon have 

their pizzas delivered via self-driving delivery 

robots. London-based Starship Technologies’ 

six-wheeled delivery robots will be delivering 

orders within a one-mile radius of certain 

Domino’s pizza shops…McDonald’s Canada 

launched McDelivery through a partnership 

with UberEATS. McDelivery with UberEATS is 

currently available in 187 restaurants across 

Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, the Greater Toronto 

Area and Edmonton. The service will eventually 

be rolled out in more than 250 restaurants... 

Milestones Grill + Bar has launched a $7-million 

renovation program that will see eight 

restaurants undergo full-scale renovations, 

including the already completed Barrie and 

Newmarket, Ont. locations. Additional sites 

will include Burlington, Oakville, Whitby and 

Waterloo, Ont., as well as two stores in Surrey 

and Langley B.C. 

PEOPLE 

The James Beard Foundation (JBF) has 

announced that Susan Ungaro will step down 

as the foundation’s president. Ungaro will continue 

to serve in her role as president of the 

JBF until Dec. 31, 2017, while the board conducts 

a search for a new leader… Restaurant Brands 

International (RBI) has announced Tim Hortons 

president Elías Díaz Sesé is moving to a new 

position within the brand, taking on the role of 

president of International Expansion, according 

to CBC News. Taking over the responsibilities of 

Díaz Sesé will be RBI CEO, Daniel Schwartz. 

SUPPLY SIDE 

Toronto-based Chesher Equipment Ltd. recently 

celebrated its 50th anniversary with an open 

house featuring food and beverages prepared 

by its culinary team. Founded in 1967, the 

Mississauga, Ont.-based company remains 

family owned …Hatco Corporation 

has redesigned its Toast-Qwik Conveyor 

Toaster to reflect a modernized look, advanced 

controls and increased production capabilities. 

New to the Toast-Qwik is a touchscreen control 

panel, which allows implementation of up 

to 12 programmable product settings …Albion 

Farms & Fisheries has partnered with Ontariobased 

Beretta Farms. Albion Farms & Fisheries 

is the strategic alignment of Intercity Packers 

and Albion Fisheries. It is one of Western 

Canada’s largest fully integrated meat and 

seafood suppliers. 

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SHOW PREVIEW 

HOSTMILANO 

SHOW 

PREVIEW 

International event brings 

together 55 countries 

BY DANIELLE SCHALK 

HostMilano is set to return to Fiera Milano in Rho, 

Italy, Oct. 20 to 24. The 2017 installment of the biennial 

tradeshow is on track to surpass the 2015 edition, 

with more than 1,800 participating companies 

confirmed in early June (up 11.4 per cent from the 

same time in 2015). 

There will be 55 different countries represented at the international 

event, including eight new entries — Belarus, Egypt, 

Lichtenstein, New Zealand, Serbia, South Africa, Sri Lanka and 

the Ukraine. Canada is also set to take the stage at HostMilano 

for the first time since 2011. 

The 2017 edition of HostMilano named the U.S., Canada 

and the Middle East as its “target areas,” which has resulted 

GLOBAL INFLUENCE The HostMilano Show will bring together 55 

countries to celebrate food 

in the formation of several new agreements with associations 

such as Restaurants Canada, Ontario Convenience Stores 

Association (OCSA), Western Convenience Stores Association 

(WCSA), Baking Association of Canada (BAC), Specialty 

Coffee Association (SCA), the Network of Executive Women in 

Hospitality (NEWH) and Interior Designers of Canada. 

The fairgrounds will be divided into four key areas of focus: 

Foodservice Equipment (Bread, Pizza and Pasta); Coffee, Tea, 

Bar, Coffee machines and Vending; Gelato, Pastry and Coffee; 

and Furniture and Tableware. 

As the world’s largest trade event for the hotel, restaurant 

and catering sectors, HostMilano is designed to create business 

opportunities within these sectors, but also offers multiple 

training and learning opportunities such as workshops, 

round tables and show-cooking demonstrations. Featured 

learning opportunities include equipment sessions hosted 

by Identità Golose; marketing the artisan, gelato and pastry 

trades; pasta industry seminars; and gluten-free demonstrations 

and tastings. 

The exposition will also host international competitions, 

including The Cake Designers World Championship, 

The World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate and the 

European Pizza Championships. 

New to the 40th edition of the show, The Experience 

Gallery will link halls 10 and 14, highlighting the hybridisation 

between gelato/pastry and coffee operations. More than 

just a bridge connecting the halls, the gallery will offer opportunities 

to explore the many different facets of the sectors. 

Finally, HostMilano will also house Sic, the International 

Coffee Trade Show — offering a series of events to better 

understand the many different facets of this evolving sector. 

This year’s show will also feature shuttle-bus service sponsored 

by Lavazza to help guests get around the massive site. FH 



THIS MONTH’S CONTEST FINALISTS 

It’s Canada’s birthday, and to celebrate we’ve launched the Made in Canada photo contest. Foodservice 

and Hospitality readers are invited to tap into their creative side by entering photos that reflect a typically 

Canadian theme focusing on typical Canadian ingredients, products, menu items, Canadian-born chefs, as 

well as quintessential Canadian restaurants. A judging panel comprised of the F&H editorial and design 

team, photographers and contest sponsors choose our monthly winners: 10 Instagram photos that reflect a 

Canadian sensibility. We’re proud to showcase this month’s finalists and top-winning entry, who has won 

a $100 HBC gift card. (see all the winning entries on the next page) 

SEPTEMBER WINNER 

Cindy La 

Toronto Ont. 

@_alteredstate_ 

Edible fried maple leaves @canoerestaurant 

Later this year, at the 2017 Pinnacle Awards, held at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel on December 1, 

we will be presenting 12 Grand Prize Winners with a collection of Experience Canada prizes. 

Visit foodserviceandhospitality.com/madeincanada for the complete prize list. 



@wakeupeatthis 

Red Snapper Ceviche @clunydistillery 

by @chefmurraymcdonald and 

@not.just.kd 

@bonafidemediapr 

Post-Stampede brunch at Whitehall 


Goat cheese and fig tartine @clunydistillery 

@mootskoi 

Violet danish with blueberriesand blackberries @clunydistillery 

@cheftj80 

Wild Pacific sockeye salmon with maple lentils and icewine gastriue 

@thehunterchef 

The team @antlerkitchenbar decided to suit up 

@cookerycatering 

Place setting at Lake 

Joseph, Muskoka 

@eat_whats_good 

Blueberry cheesecake made with Canadian blueberries 


Mushrooms and ramps cooked on a charcoal 

fire pit at #terroir2017 rural retreat 

Enter for a chance to win great prizes. Visit foodserviceandhospitality.com/madeincanada for details and contest rules. 

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FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER 

DARE 

TO BE 

DIFFERENT 

Differentiation is 

vital to increasing 

FSR visits 

iSTOCK.COM/GUSTAVOFRAZAO [ORDER HERE] 

We’ve been talking about 

Canada’s anemic full-service-restaurant 

market for 

longer than some players in 

the category care to admit 

and the story has remained unchanged. 

Traffic has maintained its year-over-year 

slip in this competitive landscape, most 

recently down four per cent in the year ending 

May 2017. It was the fourth annual decline, 

and not one of the top-10 operators posted a 

traffic gain during this time. Family visits and 

older patrons — both key to sustaining the 

more expensive FSR segment — are shrinking, 

too (with the value-crazed millennials 

now well and truly the visit-count leaders). 

Dollars are also down — by two per cent 

— and have been relatively flat since 2012 

(though most of the top-10 operators managed 

to generate modest dollar gains this 

past year). 

So what can FSR operators do to compete 

and — better still — flourish in this challenged 

space? According to this year’s edition 

of The NPD Group’s Full-Service Dining 

Report, full-service restaurant customers 

represent a cohort whose members are interested 

in “superior atmosphere, exceptional 

service and premium food quality.” Still, top 

operators are struggling to find differentiation 

on these imperatives and are suffering, 

in customers’ eyes, from homogeneity. As a 

result, restaurant goers are yanking their loyalty 

— it’s diminished across every top FSR 

operator over the last five years, while small 

chain operators and independents are picking 

up the slack. 

Differentiation needs to come through two 

channels: technology and menu claims. 

Digital media far outweighs traditional 

media sources for information and restaurant 

websites claim the number-1 spot here. Good 

sites have easy-to-access basics, including 

menus, hours of operation, phone numbers, 

pricing, et cetera. 

That acknowledgement of websites’ 

superiority in the information-hunt game 

notwithstanding, only about half of the top 

brands have even reviewed their sites in the 

past three months. That might explain why, 

while smaller brands get more site visits, they 

don’t do well with conversions. The message? 

Customers aren’t finding what they want 

on the site and are choosing not to visit 

the restaurant. 

This is where apps can help. Customers, 

says the research, use FSR apps in pursuit of 

coupons, discounts and info on ordering, pickup 

and delivery — a growing trend in FSR 

and a potential source of additional traffic. 

For operators unwilling or unable to handle a 

delivery service, third-party options abound. 

As for menu claims, the foundational 

backdrop is that consumers — particularly 

older ones — want to know where their food 

was made (locally or Canadian-sourced foods 

rule), who made it, how healthy it is and 

whether it was ever in the freezer (the top 

menu claim consumers seek is that foods are 

fresh/never frozen). 

They also want to know whether it’s “all 

natural,” and doesn’t contain artificial flavours 

or colours. 

Also important are high vegetable and fruit 

content and antibiotic-free meat. If something’s 

low in fat, sugar and calories, so much 

the better. Younger consumers want foods 

that are high in protein and have organically 

sourced ingredients. 

But if such rarified foods are what customers 

desire, are they also willing to pay for 

them? Yes, says the research. According to the 

report, consumers are most inclined to pay 

extra for organic foods — by as much as 17 

per cent. 

Full-service dining is clearly poised for a 

dramatic uplift for those restaurateurs who 

pay attention to the prevailing trends. Today’s 

consumers have specific requirements for 

the food they eat outside of their homes. 

Responsive FSRs need to not only provide 

them with it, but make some noise about 

their efforts. FH 

Robert Carter is executive 

director, Foodservice Canada, 

with the NPD Group Inc. He 

can be reached at robert. 

carter@npd.com for questions 

regarding the latest 

trends and their impact on 

the foodservice business. 



FOOD FILE 

CANADA’S MOST POPUL 

STORY BY ANDREA VICTORY 

Canadians are eating more chicken than ever. 

According to the Chicken Farmers of Canada 

Data Booklet, in 1965, the average Canadian ate 

10 kilos of chicken per year. In 2016, consumption 

rose to 32.5 kilos per year, which means the 

average Canadian is eating chicken about three 

to four times per week. 

But there’s more to the push for poultry than 

meets the eye as today’s consumers drive 

demand for chicken that has been consciously 

created and is consciously consumed. 


AR PROTEIN GETS AN UPGRADE 

ADAM TEOLIS [UNION CHICKEN] 

Aaron Jourden, managing editor at Chicago-based Technomic, 

says this trend has been gaining steam, culminating in a demand 

for better chicken. “The idea of [better chicken] is taking a chefinspired 

approach to more common or humble dishes, such as 

fried chicken or rotisserie chicken, and really elevating those from 

fast food to a sit-down meal,” he says. “[It’s about] using highquality 

ingredients and a lot of attention to preparation detail.” 

Within this overarching craze of “better chicken” exists a 

number of smaller trends — locally raised, fried, bold flavours, 

gourmet style and increased dark meat consumption — which all 

point back to cooking a better bird. 



FOOD FILE 

How Well Do You 

Know Your Chicken? 

The local trend is nothing new, but 

when it comes to poultry, customers are 

asking questions. Chicken Farmers of 

Canada’s Data Booklet states 87 per cent 

of Canadians say they want the chicken 

they consume to be from Canada. 

Customers are asking for local, 

organic, grain-fed and antibiotic-free 

chicken, however, Lisa Bishop-Spencer, 

manager of Communications for 

Chicken Farmers of Canada, says there’s 

still confusion around what labels mean 

and what is standard in Canadianraised 

chicken. “People assume if a 

chicken is raised with antibiotics, that 

when they eat that chicken, they’re 

eating the antibiotics the chicken was 

fed. The Canadian Food Inspection 

Agency checks for antibiotic residues in 

chicken and we haven’t had a violation 

in decades.” She also notes antibiotic use 

ALL FRIED UP Crispy fried chicken 

at Toronto-based Union Chicken 

(above) and The Chickery (below) 

is being phased out in Canadian chicken 

operations over the next couple of years. 

As diners become more informed and 

aware of the ingredients in their meals, 

there’s a push to educate the guest. “A 

lot of places will put the name of the 

farm or the source of the chicken on 

the menu to show its premium nature 

and quality aspects,” says Jourden. “It 

gives some authenticity to the restaurant’s 

menu if they can show where the 

chicken is from.” 

Bishop-Spencer points out that the 

Chicken Farmers of Canada offers 

a branding program, “Raised by a 

Canadian Farmer,” available to restaurants 

free-of-charge as long as it can 

prove a Canadian farm is the origin of 

the chicken they sell. Both Montana’s 

and Swiss Chalet are among Canadian 

restaurants using the label. 

A&W offers transparency into its 

poultry sourcing — a dedicated page 

on its website introduces inquiring 

guests to the British Columbia- and 

Saskatchewan-based family farmers 

raising the chicken that ends up on 

the menu. 

Shake your Tail Feather 

Fried-chicken sales are on the rise, but 

consumer expectations are changing. No 

longer content with traditional buckets 

of fast-food chicken, today’s fried-chicken 

aficionados are craving perfect crispy 

skin, juicy flavour and sauces with ethnic 

and Southern influence. 

Rise of the 

Rotisserie 

Restaurateurs are taking a run at rotisserie. 

According to Chicago-based 

Technomic’s MenuMonitor, over the last 

year, rotisserie-chicken use in entrée 

dishes was up 20 per cent at QSRs and 

fast-casual restaurants. 

At Groupe Ferreira’s Campo in 

Montreal, the chicken is marinated for 

24 hours and then cooked in specialized 

equipment imported from Portugal ($12 

for a quarter-chicken breast combo). 

Union Chicken in Ontario saw a 

demand for higher-quality rotisserie 

chicken. Offering organically raised, 

free-range birds from family-run farms 

in Ontario, chef and partner Michael 

Angeloni is proud of his poultry. “We 

really like what comes off of our rotisserie 

— the flavour, the texture and the 

overall quality. We get great feedback on 

our rotisserie chicken. It was something 

we thought people liked and so thought 

we’d do something really high quality 

and a little bit different.” 

The gamble paid off — Union’s second 

location is in the works at Toronto’s 

Union Station. “It’s a full-service restaurant 

but there’s also a takeout 

component where people can grab a full 

rotisserie chicken with sides and hop on 

the train to bring home.” 

Chef and partner Michael Angeloni of 

Union Chicken in Toronto — a chicken 

rotisserie restaurant — says fried chicken 

came to him as a request from customers. 

“It’s something I’ve always loved 

and wanted to do since day one, but 

we didn’t know if people would like it. 

Then, somebody came in and asked for 

it so I whipped it up, got great feedback 

and people loved it.” 

Customers loved the Buttermilk Fried 

Chicken ($16) with hot sauce, maplehoney 

syrup and gravy so much the 

restaurant is relaunching the menu to 

include more fried-chicken offerings. 

“Our fried chicken is so popular that 

we’re rebranding it,” Angeloni says. The 

ADAM TEOLIS [UNION CHICKEN’S CHICKEN ON SPIT, CRISPY CHICKEN PLATTER] THE CHICKERY [CHICKEN INSET] 

18 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY SEPTEMBER 2017 

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FOOD FILE 

Birds of a 

Feather 

Though chicken is the poultry 

heavyweight, it would be 

remiss to count out turkey. 

As Janice Height, director - 

Corporate Services, Turkey 

Farmers of Canada notes, 

turkey scores high with 

customers in terms of taste 

and texture and is starting to 

gain popularity as a lean option at 

foodservice outlets. 

“Turkey is now a popular meat option for sandwiches,” 

says Height. In fact, turkey sales are dominated 

by breast meat, deli slices and ground turkey. 

However, whole turkey continues to be a seasonal 

favourite, with approximately 75 per cent of all whole 

turkeys sold between September and December. 

“We’re seeing a particular growing interest in 

non-traditional turkey preparations [at restaurants], 

like turkey tacos and speciality turkey burgers,” says 

Height. She also notes provinces such as Ontario 

have recorded increased demand for roast turkey in 

both commercial and foodservice sectors. 

Turkey has also become a staple on burger 

menus, with Hero Certified Burgers, Jukebox Burgers 

and The Works all offering it among their alternative 

proteins. — Danielle Schalk 

Nashville Hot chicken was only promoted 

on social media, but demand increased 

to the point that the menu is now split 

between rotisserie and fried chicken. 

Birds with Big, 

Bold Flavour 

Popularity of dishes such as Union 

Chicken’s Nashville Hot chicken shows 

multicultural influences are still on the 

rise, says Jourden. “What we’re seeing is 

an ethnic spin with an Asian influence. 

Korean gochujang or Sriracha sauce, 

Cajun influence from the U.S. south and 

Nashville-style hot — which is a basic 

hot sauce — but it’s being tagged with 

a region. What we’re seeing are the big, 

spicy flavours.” 

The Fried-Chicken 

Sandwich Goes Gourmet 

Naturally, the next step is to put the bird 

on a bun, says Jourden. “The gourmet 

REGIONAL FAVOURITE 

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marinates its chicken 

for 24 hours 

chicken sandwich has taken off. Better 

chicken follows what we saw a few years 

ago with hamburgers and taking a premium 

approach. This has taken shape 

over a few years but recently we’re 

seeing it explode; whole restaurants 

being built around one signature friedchicken 

sandwich with a few sides to 

complement it. Again, it’s really that 

attention to preparation, the quality 

of the chicken and sauces to complement 

it.” 

CAMPO [MONTREAL RESTAURANTL]; iSTOCK.COM/MASTAPIECE [TURKEY ] 

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ADAM TEOLIS [UNION CHICKEN ROTISSERIE CHICKEN AND SIDES] 

Restaurants are taking note of the 

increased demand for fried-chicken 

sandwiches. Pegasus Group’s Fox & 

Fiddle Pubs in Ontario introduced a new 

menu this year, which included a friedchicken 

sandwich with bacon, lettuce, 

tomato and jalapeño aioli ($16). Cineplex 

Entertainment’s The Rec Room locations 

in Edmonton and Toronto offer a 

Fried Chicken Caesar Sandwich featuring 

hand-breaded chicken, roasted soleggiati 

tomatoes (lightly dried and preserved 

in a garlic and oregano-flavoured oil), 

iceberg lettuce, parmigiano reggiano and 

Caesar dressing on a brioche bun ($17). 

On the East Coast, The Merchant Tavern 

in St. John’s serves up a Crispy Chicken 

Sandwich — a fried chicken thigh with 

lettuce and aioli ($18). 

Flocking to Dark Meat 

Thanks to multicultural influences, 

which are impacting both flavour and 

meat preference, dark meat is on the rise, 

NEW SPIN ON OLD FAVOURITE Union 

Chicken‘s rotisserie birds with sides 

are a hot takout item 

offering restaurants an opportunity to 

work with cheaper cuts while bringing 

more diverse options to the menu. 

“What we see playing a major role 

is a greater presence of dark meat in 

the marketplace,” says Bishop-Spencer. 

“Traditionally it’s been about a 60/40 

[white to dark meat] split in Canada, but 

we’re starting to see a bigger influence of 

multicultural diets, so you’re seeing a bit 

of a shift.” 

Jourden agrees. “It’s a general trend 

we’ve seen taking shape over the years 

because [dark meat] is supposed to 

be more flavourful; it’s a little bit of a 

cheaper cut for the restaurant to bring 

in and it plays well with a lot of ethnic 

preparations.” 

Birds are bringing in big bucks in 

restaurants and as chefs continue to 

source high-quality meat to pair with 

global flavours, customers are finding a 

place on their plates for Canada’s most 

popular protein. FH 

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PROFILE 

Subway’s ‘Fresh-Forward’ design is part of the brand’s 

efforts to transform itself for the 21st century 

STORY BY TOM VENETIS 

anadians have been attracted to 

Subway’s healthier meal alternatives 

since the brand opened its 

first Canadian location in St. 

John’s, N.L. in 1986. With a presence in food courts, 

strip malls and stand-alone operations with drivethru 

facilities, Subway remains a strong player in the 

Canadian market, with 3,266 of its 44,936 global units 

located in Canada. 

According to F&H’s 2017 Top 100 Report, the 

privately held company (operated by Milford, Conn.- 

based Doctor’s Associates Inc.), posted $1.7 billion in 

gross sales in Canada for 2016 — up from $1.5 billion 

in 2015 — but Chicago-based market-research firm 

Technomic reported the brand’s sales fell three per 

cent in the U.S. (approximately US$400 million) 

last year. 

The decline, according to the report, was due to 

the rise of fast-causal restaurants offering consumers 

fast-food made with the higher-quality ingredients 

they are willing to pay more for. Subway was a pioneer 

in made-to-order sandwiches but, while brands 

such as Chipotle and Panera have long been offering 

antibiotic-free meats, artisanal breads made from 

non-GMO grains and additive-free toppings, Subway 

only recently began to catch up. In 2015, the brand 



PROFILE 

announced it was moving to remove artificial flavours, colours and 

preservatives from its menu by the end of 2017. This includes serving 

banana peppers coloured with turmeric instead of Yellow No. 5 

and using vinegar rather than the preservative propionic acid for its 

turkey slices. 

Subway also suffered negative press when azodicarbonamide (a 

food additive used as a flour bleaching agent and a dough conditioner) 

was reportedly found in its bread. The company has since 

removed the ingredient — used in the production of yoga mats — 

from its food. Earlier this year, CBC’s Marketplace ran a report looking 

at several chicken sandwiches offered at fast-food restaurants 

in Canada and found the chicken strips used in the Subway Oven- 

Roasted Chicken Sandwich and the Subway Sweet Onion Chicken 

Teriyaki contained only half chicken DNA. 

Earlier this year, the Freshii restaurant brand took out a full-page 

ad in the Globe and Mail, laying out founder and CEO Matthew 

Corrin’s growth strategy, arguing Subway would benefit from partnering 

with Freshii. He also claimed struggling Subway franchises 

would fare better by being reinvented as Freshii locations. 

Moving Fresh Forward 

“When I look at the competitive landscape today, I see it’s evolving 

and changing,” says Don Fertman, chief Development officer with 

Subway. “People looking to eat out today have numerous options 

and numerous ways of acquiring those options — from traditional 

take-out service to online ordering and apps. It’s a much more 

diverse landscape from when we first started and it was just us and 

those guys who have the arches. The challenge is to get the attention 

of the customer. We need to keep the customer at the centre and 

make [Subway] the destination of choice. We want the customer to 

choose us.” 

Subway’s Fresh-Forward design is the brand’s new strategy aimed 

at transforming the customer experience. Trevor Haynes, vice-president 

of Operations with Subway, says the new 

Fresh-Forward design touches on every point 

of the customer experience — from the design 

and look of the franchise locations to how customers 

order their meals. 

U.K.-based visual-identity and packagingdesign 

agency Turner Duckworth helped 

revitalize Subway’s brand identity — from the 

revamp of the company’s iconic logo last year, 

to the new colour palette, as well as new packaging, 

uniforms and signage. U.S.-based retaildesign 

consultancy FRCH Design Worldwide 

created new designs for the franchise locations, 

which emphasize the use of fresh, healthy 

ingredients. The refreshed locations feature 

large and visible display areas to showcase the 

fresh vegetables that are cut and used every day, 

while the use of green and yellow reinforce the 

fresh and healthy concept. 

Updated seating areas with USB charging 

points and free Wi-Fi access are also part of the 

design, as well as self-order kiosks and digital 

menu boards. Customers will have an option to 

use Samsung or Apple pay. 

Haynes emphasizes the new direction is an 

effort by the company to create a modern and 

inviting design that will give choices to both 

its long-time customers and to new customers 

— from how they order their food to how it’s 

picked up. 

Currently, there are 12 pilot locations featuring 

the Fresh-Forward design, including 

Tamarac, Orlando and Winter Park in Fla.; 

Chula Vista, Cali.; Knoxville, Tenn.; Palmview, 

Texas; Hillsboro, Ore.; and Vancouver, Wash. 

In Canada, a 25-table standalone location has 

opened in Granby, Que. and a 2,000-sq.-ft., 


iSTOCK.COM/MATRIYOSHKA [ILLUSTRATION] 

Home- 

Grown 

Improvements 

Last year, 

Subway restaurants 

strengthened its commitment 

to investing 

in Canadian agriculture 

by introducing 

Canadian-raised 

pork, turkey and beef 

products to its menu, 

through its ham and 

shaved steak products. 

It also committed to 

sourcing all roast beef, 

chicken and meatballs 

from Canadian producers 

by the end of the 

year. It also provides 

home-grown produce 

across Canada, 

where possible. 

During peak harvest 

seasons, Western 

Canada guests are able 

to enjoy B.C.-grown 

cucumbers; guests 

in Ontario can add 

cucumbers, peppers, 

tomatoes and onions 

from the Greenbelt 

region and guests 

in Quebec can add 

local green peppers. 

17-table unit has opened in Beauport, Que. An international location 

in Manchester U.K. is also part of the pilot program. 

“Subway has always been evolving, from the time it began with 

its first store,” says Haynes. “We’ve had several different design packages 

over the last 20 years and this is simply another step forward 

C 

M 

and an evolution of our brand.” 

Y 

Haynes adds that as franchisees update their locations to the new 

design, they will be given a Fresh Forward local shop marketing CM 

toolkit, which can be customized for their operation to help them 

MY 

market the new design to their community. 

CY 

Haynes says Canadians have already embraced the new Fresh- 

Forward design in Quebec. “Traditionally, we’ve been a lunchfocused 

and take-out focused experience,” Haynes adds. “And, don’t K 

CMY 

get me wrong, we are still focused on that market. But we also see 

that outside of that lunch market, afternoons and evenings are times 

people want to sit down, relax and eat.” He says features such as 

bright decor, comfortable seating and Wi-Fi work together to create 

a welcoming atmosphere that encourages dining in. “We’re raising 

awareness of all these features — from the food to the design layout 

— so our customers know they have just as many options for how 

they order and dine at their Subway as they do for what they order. 

This [Fresh-Forward] design ensures Subway remains competitive 

in this marketplace and has something compelling to offer our customers. 

We want to build a relationship with our Canadian consumers 

[so it’s] a guest-first approach.” 

The key to successfully rolling out the new design in Canada, 

says Fertman, is not taking a one-size-fits-all approach. He says the 

company will be sitting down with each franchisee to determine if 

their location and store footprint will benefit from the new design. 

There is no fixed number of Canadian units set to receive the Fresh- 

Forward facelift in the next year. Instead, the company is taking a 

location-by-location approach and optimizing the design for each 

chosen restaurant. 

“The long-term goal is for all Subway restaurants around the 

world to feature the new look,” adds Haynes. “It’s very important 

that we remodel the right location with the right format and the 


PROFILE 

right franchisees. That’s going to take time, so this will be a multiyear 

project.” 

“We are not about to take and transform every restaurant we 

have,” says Haynes. “We will work with our franchisees to look 

at their leases and even to see if there is another location that they 

can move to that will give them better street frontage for improved 

signage, or to move to a freestanding building or even one with a 

drive-thru. We really want to work with them, to give them 

guidance so they can make the best decision for the location 

they are in.” 

“We’re working with our franchisees on the investment by providing 

competitive financing in collaboration with the franchiseeowned 

Independent Purchasing Co-Op, along with incentives from 

the company and our vendors,” Haynes continues. “The design 

is available in different tier and price points, giving them more 

options to better accommodate their restaurant needs and styles. 

The cost of the new design is within the general range of previous 

Subway decor options.” 

This is particularly important for locations looking to take 

advantage of Subway’s mobile-app strategy. Taking a cue from 

Starbucks’ popular app, which allows customers to order ahead 

and pick-up the order from the nearest location, Subway’s app and 

Messenger bot — set to launch in the fourth quarter of this year — 

allow customers to design their own sandwiches, place their orders 

at their nearest Subway location and pay for them through the apps 

— orders will be waiting for them when they arrive. 

The footprints of these locations will need to accommodate the 

extra staff required to keep up with orders placed through the app 

without impacting the day-to-day operations and food preparation 

for customers who come into the location to place an order. 

Menu Evolution 

Another key to the new strategy is overhauling the menu to meet 

the demands of today’s customers who not only want greater choice 

when it comes to their food, but also higher-quality ingredients. 

Many traditional Subway classic sandwiches will remain, but consumers 

will now have more options. For example, in April of this 

year, Subway added four new gourmet Panini — Chipotle Steak & 

Cheese, Tender, Triple Cheese, Chicken Cordon Bleu and the Italian 

B.M.T. Melt — featuring fresh-baked ciabatta bread. Plans are 

underway to begin testing grilled-chicken wraps made with glutenfree 

wraps. Fresh Forward will see the addition of new toppings 

such as pico de gallo, various sauces and house-made pickles. 

“Guests now have more options for how they customize their 

sandwiches and salads, but our classic sandwiches, like the Turkey 

Breast, Classic Tuna, B.M.T. and Steak and Cheese, will always be 

part of the menu,” Haynes adds. “We will always serve fresh-baked 

bread and fresh veggies sliced and prepared in each restaurant. We 

are giving customers more choices to create their perfect meal, but 

our core menu is not changing.” 

“With our Fresh-Forward design and our product mix, we want 

people to walk into Subway and say ‘this is a fantastic experience’,” 

says Fertman. FH 


HOW INDUSTRY CHANGES ARE AFFECTING LABOUR SUPPLY 


COVER STORY 

STORY BY SARAH B. HOOD 

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID PARKINS 

In a world that’s gone mad for celebrity 

chefs and the latest food trends, diners are forcing 

restaurants to seek out ever-more top-notch staff. 

Meanwhile, “many people don’t look at the foodservice 

industry as a career,” says Jeff Dover, vice-president of 

Toronto-based foodservice consulting firm fsStrategy. 

“We’re not doing a good job of making it a career option 

and something that people are proud to do.” 

Foodservice businesses are facing the threat of 

increasing labour shortages, says Tony Elenis, president 

and CEO of the Mississauga-based Ontario Restaurant 

Hotel & Motel Association (ORHMA). “The Baby 

Boomers are leaving every year and we have difficulty 

filling those voids.” 

Engaging the upcoming millennial cohort isn’t 

difficult; simple appreciation can go a long way. 

“Companies successful in retaining millennial employees 

are good at providing constant feedback,” notes Dover. 

“This is a generation that grew up with instant gratification. 

They want to be appreciated for doing a good job.” 

To this end, “we’ve always been pretty progressive 

with the way we view our employees,” says Phil Wylie, 

VP of People for Toronto-based Oliver & Bonacini 

Restaurants. “We were one of the first groups to get rid 

of day rates. All of our managers get benefits.” There 

are also family-dining discounts and popular contests. 

“It’s those little things,” he says. “It’s a tough job and you 

have to find ways to keep [staff] inspired.” 

Rodney’s Oyster House in Toronto has kept some 

workers for 20 years. “It’s stable; it’s consistent, so it’s 

somewhere people can build their lives around,” says 

owner and front-of-house manager Bronwen Clark. “We 

have full dental plans for our front-of-house staff who 

have been here more than two years.” 

One challenge in retaining good employees is scheduling, 

says Dover. “Everyone works nights and weekends, 

but if something is important — a wedding, a concert 

— you try and work around people’s schedules and let it 

be known that you’ll work around them.” 

“Ten years ago, servers were happy to work weekends 

and holidays,” says Andrew Laffey, co-owner of The Hot 



COVER STORY 

Minimum Hourly Wages 

by Province, 2017 

ALBERTA 

$13.60 

SASKATCHEWAN 

$10.96 

as of Oct. 1 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 

MANITOBA 

$11.35 

as of Sept. 15 

$11.32 

YUKON 

$11 

ONTARIO 

$11.60 

as of Oct. 1 

House in Toronto with his wife Elinor 

Laffey. Their popular downtown location 

can “offer flexibility where most 

in the industry would not be able to; 

you can work full-time, part-time, 

lunch or weekends.” 

But not everyone has this luxury, 

says Elenis, and “scheduling is a 

fundamental employer need in 

the industry.” 

ORHMA is currently participating 

in the Ontario government’s review 

of its labour standards to represent 

the realistic needs and concerns of 

foodservice employers. In a statement 

released in May, Elenis cautioned 

against layering labour reforms and 

potential wage increases on top of 

growing government policies that 

impact the hospitality sector, such as 

rising hydro costs, Canada Pension 

Plan enhancements, cap and trade 

and rising municipal property taxes. 

NORTHWEST 

TERRITORIES 

$12.50 

“The Premier wants to protect 

vulnerable workers — Ontario’s hospitality 

employers, including smallbusiness 

operators, are the vulnerable 

ones,” he says. “They are the people 

expected to pay for the suggested 

changes to labour laws.” 

He adds that “Immigration laws 

are not conducive to employment in 

our industry; [Canada’s Temporary 

Foreign Workers program] is something 

that needs to be looked at, 

because we need unskilled people as 

$13 

NUNAVUT 

$11 

as of Oct. 1 

NEWFOUNDLAND 

& LABRADOR 

QUEBEC 

$11.25 

NEW 

BRUNSWICK 

$11 

+ 

Some things are simply 

better together . . .

COVER STORY 

well as skilled people in our industry. 

There are restrictions on how many 

people you can bring in, based on 

unemployment in your area, but 

there are hotels in [remote] resort 

areas like Muskoka, where no one 

shows up to interviews and the conclusion 

is that no one wants to work 

in the industry.” 

PRINCE 

EDWARD ISLAND 

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“Unfortunately, the wages in the back 

are not as competitive, so we have been 

increasing our tip-out in all of our 

restaurants so more of the gratuity goes 

to the guys in the back.” 

— Phil Wylie, O&B 

NOVA SCOTIA 

$11.25 $10.85 

Front-of-House 

versus Kitchen 

“We have a bigger challenge keeping 

people in the kitchen than in 

service,” says Wylie. With tip levels 

rising above 15 per cent, “the server 

job is turning into a lifetime career. 

Unfortunately, the wages in the back 

are not as competitive, so we have 

been increasing our tip-out in all of 

our restaurants so more of the gratuity 

goes to the guys in the back. They 

wouldn’t be able to serve if there 

wasn’t great food coming out from 

the back.” 

Tip pools or “tip-out” arrangements 

are a common strategy to 

address this inequity and a few companies 

are testing a no-tipping policy. 

In 2016, Ontario made it illegal for an 

employer to use their employees’ tips 

The 

restaurant 

industry 

directly 

employs 

more than 

1.2 million 

people, 

or 6.9 

per cent 

of Canada’s 

workforce, 

making 

it the 

country’s 

fourthlargest 

employer. 

SOURCE: 

RESTAURANTS CANADA 

to cover losses or damages, but may 

still redistribute them through a pool. 

Newfoundland has a similar policy, 

while Prince Edward Island requires 

employers to advise an employee 

in writing at the time of hiring if a 

tip-out policy is in effect. Quebec 

requires workers to report their tips 

to their employer, who, in turn, must 

report them to government, and tips 

can be pooled. 

A tip-out is “very good solution,” 

says Elenis. “These individuals who 

work in the service industry are entitled 

to it, and it’s up to employers to 

determine the mix that will go to the 

kitchen and support staff.” 

At Oliver & Bonacini, “we spend 

a lot of time with our cooks,” Wylie 

says. Career development and training 

are discussed regularly. With 

“multiple brands with different kinds 

of food,” the company can offer a 

range of experience within the single 

brand. “We’ve had so many people 

work at O&B who then go off and 

open their own restaurants and we’re 

proud of that.” 

At The Hot House, “the servers 

will tip out their colleagues, like busboys 

and bar staff, but the back-ofhouse 

do not [benefit from] tip sharing,” 

says Laffey, who does not dictate 

how the pool will be distributed. 

At the Toronto location of 

Rodney’s Oyster House, “we don’t do 

any of the house tip-outs that a lot 

of restaurants do. We have managers 

who work on the floor, but they 

don’t get tipped out,” says Clark. The 

company’s two-year-old Calgary outlet 

is “totally different; we pool our 

gratuities, so everybody has to work 

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COVER STORY 

in teams.” 

Ultimately, she says, “a restaurant 

is not the most profitable business 

you can get into, but it’s a lifestyle, 

a community, a culture of people. 

You’re not making 50-per-cent profit 

at the end of the month, but that’s 

okay, because you have this whole 

family of people here.” 

Wage Wars 

Across North America, many city, 

state and provincial governments 

are planning substantial increases 

in minimum wage, partly due to a 

“Fight for $15” campaign by U.S. 

labour interests. In 2016, Alberta 

eliminated separate wage levels 

for liquor servers and raised minimum 

wage to $12.20 per hour, with 

increases set for 2017 ($13.60) and 

2018 ($15). 

In 2014, Ontario raised its minimum 

wage to $11, with increases 

based on the Consumer Price Index 

(CPI). As of October 2017, it stands 

at $11.60 ($10.90 for students and 

$10.10 for liquor servers), but the 

province plans to introduce increases 

to $14 in 2018 and $15 in 2019, 

while it broadens workers’ access to 

benefits such as as paid sick days, 

vacation and leave. (Some B.C. politicians 

have likewise been eyeing a 

$15 minimum.) 

Ontario has not yet announced 

how much tipped workers will be 

paid. This issue has been controversial 

in locations such as Minneapolis 

and Maine (which flip-flopped on its 

original plan to eliminate a lower rate 

for tipped workers after protest by 

restaurant owners and workers.) 

ORHMA has been outspoken 

in its criticism of the speed with 

which Ontario is moving forward 

with increases. “There is something 

seriously wrong in Ontario when 

hardworking business owners and 

operators are punished for providing 

Survey Says 

A recent survey by Restaurants 

Canada shows 95 per cent of Ontario’s 

restaurant owners believe raising the 

minimum wage to $15 an hour — 

a 32-per-cent hike in just 18 months 

— will hurt employees. 

The survey, conducted in June and July, 2017 included 

800 respondents representing 4,170 locations across 

the province. Operators reported plans to take the 

following actions: 

98% will raise menu prices 

97% will reduce labour hours 

81% will lay off staff 

74% will explore labour-saving technology such as 

self-service touch screens 

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COVER STORY 

iSTOCK.COM/LACHEEV 

jobs,” Elenis said in a statement earlier 

this year. “We are an industry that 

is an entry-level employer for many 

youth, seniors, immigrants and nonskilled 

workers. The Premier clearly 

has not considered the sustainment 

of our economic model with rigid 

price-point limitations in a highly 

competitive environment. Ontario’s 

restaurants have the lowest profit 

margins in all of Canada.” 

Elenis expresses particular concern 

for smaller businesses, as well as for 

consumers: since 2014, Ontario had 

planned that “minimum wage would 

go up every October and then be 

reviewed again,” he says. “All of a sudden, 

you have something that does 

not give enough time for the industry 

to plan.” 

In comparison, “California took 

five years [to 2022], in a state that has 

better profitability in this industry 

than Ontario, to increase to $15 for 

employers of 25 or less, and four 

years for 26 or more,” says Elenis. The 

cities of San Francisco and San Jose 

are moving faster, with plans to reach 

$15 in 2018 and 2019, respectively. 

In Seattle, Portland employers are 

already expected to pay $15; others 

will have until 2021. “At least it gives 

time for restaurant owners to say ‘I’m 

going to sell it,’ or raise prices.” 

All of 

a sudden, 

you have 

something 

that does 

not give 

enough 

time 

for the 

industry 

to 

plan. 

“It’s a big jump,” says Dover. 

“When you look at the average 

restaurant net profit at about four 

per cent, I’m not sure they’re going 

to be able to pass the price increase 

off as fast as the minimum wage is 

going up.” 

Another implication of an 

increased minimum wage is the 

associated increase in payroll taxes 

— “when payroll goes up, CPP goes 

up, employment insurance goes 

up, Workers Compensation contributions 

go up and our industry 

employers absorb those costs as well,” 

says Elenis. 

“It’s something we’re still planning 

on how we’re going to deal with,” says 

Wylie. “We’re going to have to raise 

prices to some degree. There’s a domino 

effect: people who were already 

getting $15 will want more and it will 

affect our food costs” [since suppliers 

will be paying their workers more]. 

“You have to increase your prices 

on food,” says Clark, who has already 

felt the impact of a higher minimum 

wage in her Calgary location. 

However, the clientele in her moderately 

upscale establishment “generally 

didn’t notice,” she says. Since margins 

on seafood are so narrow, Rodney’s 

passed on the increase in its alcohol 

prices. “It’s not enormous,” she says. 

“You’re not increasing by $10; you’re 

increasing the price of the beer by 

about 50 cents.” 

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COVER STORY 

There’s 

a domino 

effect: 

people 

who were 

already 

getting 

$15 will 

want more 

and it will 

affect 

our 

food 

costs. 

So far, the evidence about the likely 

impact of minimum-wage increases 

on businesses, workers and the general 

economy is scarce, and even contradictory. 

“Classical economics suggests there’s 

going to be huge job losses [yet] studies 

indicate that’s not likely to be the case,” 

Bernie Wolf, economics professor at York 

University’s Schulich School of Business, 

told CBC News in an interview last June. 

The Effects of a $15 Minimum Wage in 

New York State (March 2016) suggested 

that “the costs of the minimum wage 

will be borne by turnover reductions, 

productivity increases and modest price 

increases,” while an April 2017 study of 

the restaurant industry in San Francisco, 

Survival of the Fittest, estimated that “a 

one-dollar increase in the minimum 

wage leads to a 14-per-cent increase 

in the likelihood of [closure] for a 3.5- 

star restaurant, with most risk for 

“lower quality restaurants, which are 

already closer to the margin of exit” 

and “no discernible impact for a 

5-star restaurant.” FH 

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oh Canada! 

Canadian chefs share their favourite regional recipes 

PANKO-CRUSTED 

PICKEREL CHEEKS 

with Manitoba Golden Caviar, 

Crème Frâiche and 

Orange-Fennel Salad 

Recipe on next page 

Î 



oh Canada! 

Panko-Crusted Pickerel 

Cheeks with Manitoba 

Golden Caviar Crème 

Frâiche and Orange- 

Fennel Salad 

Ingredients 

20 pickerel cheeks 

1 large egg 

2 cups panko 

1/2 cup canola oil 

Pat cheeks dry and season with salt and 

pepper. Whisk egg in a shallow bowl. 

Put panko in another shallow bowl. Dip 

cheeks, one at a time, in egg mixture and 

then in panko, turning to coat, and transfer 

to a tray. Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick 

skillet over moderate heat until hot 

but not smoking. Cook cheeks until just 

cooked through and golden brown (adjust 

heat if necessary), about one minute on 

each side. Put cheeks, as cooked, in one 

layer on paper towels and season again 

with salt and pepper. Serve cheeks with 

crème frâiche and golden caviar. 

Crème Frâiche 

Ingredients 

1 cup whipping cream 

2 tbsp buttermilk 

Combine whipping cream and buttermilk 

in a glass container. Cover and let stand 

at room temperature (about 70°F) for 

eight to 24 hours, or until very thick. Stir 

well before covering and refrigerate up 

to 10 days. 

Orange-Fennel Salad 

Ingredients 

2 navel oranges 

2 medium fennel bulbs 

1 1/2 tbsp white-wine vinegar 

1/2 tsp salt 

1/4 tsp black pepper 

1/4 cup cold-pressed canola oil 

Remove peel, including all white pith, from 

oranges with a paring knife. 

Cut segments free from membranes. Cut 

out and discard core of each fennel bulb, 

then cut bulbs crosswise into thin slices. 

Whisk together vinegar, salt and pepper 

in a small bowl until salt is 

dissolved, then add oil in a stream, 

whisking until well combined. Toss 

fennel and oranges with dressing in a 

large bowl until well combined. 

Season with salt and pepper. 

RECIPE COURTESY OF CHEF LORNA 

MURDOCH, FUSION GRILL, WINNIPEG 

Wild Mushroom Salad 

with Cauliflower, Dill 

and Rosehip 

Vinaigrette 

Rosehip butter is packed full of 

nutrients and vitamin C. You may 

have to search a little to find it in 

health-food stores or in specialty 

food shops catering to Germanic 

and Nordic clients. Alternately, you 

can find rosehip syrup in some 

stores and it makes an acceptable 

substitute for the butter. You 

can also use apple butter, or even 

orange marmalade, as a substitute. 

We make our own rosehip butter on 

Deerholme Farm every late fall, just 

after the frost has touched 

the rosehips. 

Ingredients 

1 cauliflower head, cut into chunks 

3 tbsp apple cider vinegar, divided 

1 tbsp honey 

1 tbsp butter 

4 cups chopped mushrooms (chanterelle, 

button, pine, etc.) 

2 tbsp chopped fresh dill 

salt and pepper, to taste 

1 tbsp rosehip butter (or rosehip 

syrup or apple butter) 

1 tbsp mustard (yellow or grainy) 

2 tbsp grapeseed oil 

WILD MUSHROOM SALAD 

with Cauliflower, Dill, 

and Rosehip Vinaigrette 

Heat a large pot of boiling salted 

water. Cook the cauliflower until 

tender and then drain. Return the 

cauliflower to the pot and, while 

it’s still hot, add 2 tbsp of the cider 

vinegar and the honey. Toss to mix. 

In a skillet over medium-high heat, 

add the butter. When it’s sizzling, 

add the mushrooms and sauté 

until they begin to brown. Add 

mushrooms to the cauliflower and 

toss to coat. Season well with dill, 

salt and pepper. In a small bowl, 

combine the rosehip butter and the 

remaining 1 tbsp of cider vinegar 

and mustard. Whisk until smooth, 

then add the oil in a slow stream, 

whisking until thick. To serve, 

arrange the salad on a platter and 

drizzle with the vinaigrette. Serve at 

room temperature or chilled. 

RECIPE COURTESY OF BILL JONES, 

CHEF/OWNER, DEERHOLME FARM, 

SHAWNIGAN LAKE, B.C. 

BILL JONES [MUSHROOM SALAD] 

36 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY SEPTEMBER 2017 


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Wild Rabbit 

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Ingredients 

150g wild rabbit livers, cleaned 

75g chicken livers, cleaned 

50g foie gras 

2 whole eggs 

1 cup unsalted butter, melted 

1/4 cup shallots, sliced 

1 clove garlic 

5 sprigs of fresh thyme 

1 bay leaf 

1/4 cup Maderia 

1/4 cup Port 

1/2cup brandy 

Salt and pepper 

Reduce alcohol with shallots, thyme, bay 

leaf and garlic to form a syrup. Meanwhile, 

bring everything else to room temperature. 

In a food processer, blitz livers, foie 

gras and the shallot-port reduction with 

a good pinch of salt. Once smooth, add 

the eggs one at a time until fully incorporated, 

then slowly add the butter. 

Pass the mixture though a fine strainer 

and check seasoning. Line a terrine mold 

with a double layer of cling film and fill 

with mixture. Cook in a bain-marie at 

325°F for approximately 45 min. to an 

internal temperature of 68°C. 

Allow to cool before serving. 

RECIPE COURTESY OF EXECUTIVE CHEF 

JOHN HORNE, CANOE, TORONTO 

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oh Canada! 

Charred Napa Cabbage 

with Avocado, Crunchy 

Seeds, Citrus and Mint 

Ingredients 

2 cups Napa cabbage 

2 cups charred Napa cabbage 

1 avocado, chopped 

2 oranges, segmented 

1 tbsp sherry vinegar 

4 tbsp olive oil 

1 tsp salt, to taste 

1/2 cup sprouted lentils 

1/4 cup mint, chiffonade 

1/4 cup puffed wild rice (see technique 

below or substitute puffed quinoa) 

2 tbsp sunflower seeds, toasted 

2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted 

CHARRED 

NAPA CABBAGE 

with Avocado, Crunchy 

Seeds, Citrus and Mint 

Cut Napa cabbage in half horizontally. Grill 

one half until you see a light char on one 

side (approximately five minutes). Let cool. 

Finely slice both the charred cabbage and 

the raw cabbage into a slaw. Place in a 

medium-sized bowl and add the avocado 

and orange segments. In a separate bowl, 

whisk together the sherry 

...CONTINUED ON PAGE 40 

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oh Canada! 

Slow-Baked Rainbow Trout 

with Crushed East Coast 

Seafood Chowder 

Seafood chowder is one of the most iconic 

ways to fill your bowl with authentic, hearty 

goodness. This recipe perfectly represents 

the East-Coast ethos of tradition, simplicity 

and local pride. At heart, it’s really just a 

bowl of whatever could be found, prepared 

with old-fashioned cooking. 

Ingredients 

2 slices of bacon, chopped 

1 large cooking onion, diced 

2 celery stalks, diced 

1 large carrot, diced 

1/4 cup of white wine 

2 lb of mussels in shells 

1 cup of cream 

2 cups of milk 

10-ounce jar of bar clams in broth 

2 tsp of salt 

freshly ground pepper 

1 bay leaf 

1 large potato, unpeeled and diced 

1 lb or so of fresh, local seafood (whitefish, 

lobster, scallops, salmon, oysters or whatever 

you have) 

1/4 cup (60 mL) of chopped flat leaf parsley 

Brown the bacon until crisp in a thickbottomed 

soup pot. Add the onions, 

celery and carrot and sauté until the colours 

and flavours brighten, about three to four 

minutes. Splash in the white wine and toss 

in the mussels. Bring to a simmer, cover 

tightly and steam until the mussels open 

and release juices (about five minutes). Fish 

out all the shells and discard. Fish out the 

meaty mussels and reserve. Pour in the 

cream, milk, bar clams, salt, pepper and bay 

leaves. Bring to a steady simmer then toss 

in the potatoes. Continue simmering until 

the potatoes are tender and tasty, (about 15 

minutes). Stir in your choice of fish and the 

reserved mussel meat. Return to simmer. 

At the last second, stir in the parsley. Serve 

immediately with your favourite biscuits. 

EAST COAST 

SEAFOOD CHOWDER 

LOUISE SAVOIE PHOTOGRAPHY [CHOWDER] 

Kitchen Tip 

Sometimes you’ll find your broth seems to 

separate. No harm done, it’s perfectly natural 

and easily fixed by simply stirring the 

works until smooth again. 

RECIPE COURTESY OF CHEF MICHAEL SMITH, 

THE INN AT BAY FORTUNE, P.E.I. 



oh Canada! 

...CONTINUED FROM PAGE 38 

(CHARRED NAPA CABBAGE) 

vinegar and olive oil, add salt to taste, 

then pour over cabbage and lightly mix. 

On a large serving platter/shallow bowl, 

pile cabbage mixture high on the centre 

of the plate. Sprinkle with sprouted 

lentils, mint, puffed wild rice and toasted 

sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Serve 

immediately. 

To puff wild rice 

Coat a frying pan with 1/4-inch of an oil 

with a high smoke point, such as grapeseed 

or sunflower oil (do not use olive 

oil). Heat over high until it reaches 500°, 

or just begins to smoke. Add 2 tbsp of 

uncooked wild rice. It will begin to puff. 

Quickly remove from heat. With a slotted 

spoon remove from pan and place on a 

paper towel lined plate. Season with salt 

to taste. Alternately, you can find puffed 

quinoa in most grocery stores; it makes 

a great substitute and adds a wonderful 

nutty crunch. 

RECIPE COURTESY OF CONNIE DESOUSA 

& JOHN JACKSON, CO-CHEFS/OWNERS, 

CHARBAR RESTAURANT, CALGARY 

SLOW-BAKED 

RAINBOW TROUT 

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Steamed Asparagus 

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oh Canada! 

Slow-Baked Rainbow 

Trout with Crushed 

Potatoes, Steamed 

Asparagus and 

Hollandaise 

Ingredients 

1 whole rainbow trout (about 1kg) or 

2 filets, skin on 

1 bunch asparagus 

8 to 12 small new potatoes 

finishing salt 

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives 

Fillet and remove bones from the trout. 

Season the flesh side with salt and a 

touch of sugar. Lay the filets skin-side-up 

on a baking tray lined with parchment 

paper. Pre-heat the oven to 250°F and 

let the fish rest in the fridge while you 

prepare the rest of the garnish. Rinse the 

potatoes and boil them in seasoned water 

until tender. While the potatoes are simmering, 

prepare the hollandaise (see recipe 

below). Put the trout in the oven and 

bake until the skin can peel off the flesh 

(about 10 to 15 minutes depending on the 

size). Slice the asparagus on a bias and 

steam or blanch for 60 seconds. Lightly 

crush the potatoes and season generously 

with olive oil, finishing salt and 

fresh black pepper. Place the potatoes on 

a plate and sprinkle with the asparagus. 

Slice each filet in half and place on top 

of the asparagus. Spoon the hollandaise 

around the fish and sprinkle the whole 

dish with chives and finishing salt. 

Hollandaise Sauce 

Ingredients 

2 egg yolks 

30 mL fresh lemon juice 

30 mL water 

180 mL clarified butter, warm 

Over a double boiler on low heat, whisk 

the egg yolks, lemon juice and water 

with a pinch of salt until very thick (an 

instant-read thermometer should show 

80 °C). Remove the bowl from heat and 

whisk in the clarified butter. Adjust seasoning 

with salt and lemon juice. Keep 

the hollandaise in a warm spot until 

serving. 

RECIPE COURTESY OF CHEF CARL 

HEINRICH, RICHMOND STATION, TORONTO 

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THE NEW 

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Consumer demand for quality 

and variety continues to shape 

the coffee and tea segments 

BY DANIELLE SCHALK 

FROM PREMIUM OPTIONS to iced and 

craft brews, specialty beverages have become 

a key focus for operators looking to maintain 

an edge over the competition as customers 

continue to embrace options beyond traditional 

hot coffee and tea. “Regular coffee is 

by far the leading beverage when you look 

at the morning [daypart], but preference 

wanes through the day and that’s when you 

see other options — whether it be iced tea 



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or cold coffee — become more 

important as you move beyond 

breakfast,” explains Charles 

Winship, senior Research 

analyst, Consumer Insights at 

Technomic. 

According to Technomic’s 

2017 Canadian Bakery & Coffee 

Café Consumer Trend Report, 

this trend is driven largely by 

the ongoing generational shift 

and its continued disruption of 

the food-and-beverage industry. 

“Preferences tend to be different 

in that younger consumers look 

for things that are more unique 

— different from traditional 

options,” he says. “For beverages, 

that means things such as iced 

coffee in particular.” According 

to the report, younger consumers 

prefer frozen specialty coffee 

by a two-to-one margin over 

older consumers. 

According to Silver Chef 

– Canada’s State of the Coffee 

Industry 2017, trends in coffee 

change in response to changing 

consumer profiles. 

Cold-brew coffee is one of 

the most telling trends when it 

comes to current consumer preferences 

— displaying alternative 

brewing methods and a cold 

format, while offering a different 

flavour profile from traditional 

iced coffee. In fact, cold brew 

experienced such high popularity 

that respondents to Hunter 

Public Relations’ annual Food 

News Study dubbed 2016 “the 

year of cold-brew coffee.” 

Overall, consumer education 

levels and a desire for craft 

products are reshaping this 

segment. In its report, Silver 

Chef identified barista-made 

beverages, single-origin coffees 

(prepared as pour over), knowing 

the story behind the coffee, 

alternative milk options and 

sustainable and environmental 

efforts as key elements of the 

successful modern café. 

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BLOWING UP YOUR FEED 

The pertinence of social media within the realm of foodservice 

has not been ignored by Canada’s top coffee and tea players. 

Social-media-worthy beverages have been popping up on 

menus across the country. One of the most notable and unique 

is Ancaster, Ont.-based Balzac’s Coffee Roasters’ Coffee in a 

Cone. The concept — dubbed “the world’s most Instagramable 

coffee” — was developed by South African barista Dayne 

Levinrad. Balzac’s serves up chocolate coated ice-cream 

cones as the vessel for espresso, macchiato, hot chocolate or 

its Nitro Cold Brew. The coating is designed to be leak-proof for 

approximately 10 minutes. Though the concept is available at 

multiple establishments around the world, Balzac’s is the first 

to bring the photo-worthy treat to Canada. 

As part of a collaboration with 

Lady Gaga and her “Born This Way 

Foundation,” Starbucks launched 

a collection of vibrantly coloured 

non-dairy iced beverages in June. 

The eye-catching drinks — which 

include the Matcha Lemonade, 

Violet Drink and Ombré Pink 

Drink — garnered thousands of 

Instagram tags during the weeklong 

campaign benefitting the 

foundation. However, this is nothing 

compared to the social-media 

hype created by the company’s 

Unicorn Frappuccino. Though it 

featured neither coffee nor tea, 

this limited-time offer blew up 

online and in the media. 

Custom-printed latte art is 

another key trend that has customers 

pausing to snap photos before they 

sip. In the last year, machines 

such as the Ripple Maker have 

become increasingly popular 

across the country. This 

system, by Steam 

CC, prints custom 

images, 

logos and photos 

on drinks using 

coffee extract “ink.” 


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Along with the shift away from 

regular hot coffee is an increased 

interest in non-coffee beverages. 

Leading the pack in this category 

is tea — specifically iced and 

specialty teas. In this category, 

too, younger consumers are the 

driving force. In fact, Technomic 

findings suggest 39 per cent of 

younger consumers would like 

more cafés to offer specialty tea 

drinks (compared to 19 per cent 

of older consumers). 

Canada’s multiculturalism is 

also credited with bolstering the 

popularity of tea. “Canadians 

really love their black teas because 

of our British [roots], but as the 

population is diversifying, we are 

also diversifying in our taste,” 

says Louise Roberge, president, 

Tea and Herbal Association of 

Canada (THAC), adding generational 

shifts are also part of this 

diversification. “Millennials are 

the ones that are embracing a lot 

of beverages and they’re embracing 

tea…but don’t count the 

boomers out,” she urges. 

Though, as Roberge notes, 

most people prepare and consume 

their tea at home; for outof-home 

occasions “people drink 

tea at coffee and doughnut shops, 

specialty coffee/tea places (such 

as Starbucks), Asian restaurants 

and in the office.” 

Starbucks continues to capitalize 

on tea’s growing market share. 

Iced-tea beverages, in particular, 

have been a focus of the company’s 

Canadian product launches. 

During summer 2017, Starbucks 

introduced its line-up of Teavana 

Shaken Iced Tea Infusions, which 

contain tea, fruit and botanical 

blends and are free of artificial 

flavours and sweeteners. The 

addition also allows customers to 

TEA TIME Iced and 

specialty teas are among the 

café offerings experiencing 

growing popularity 

customize any iced-tea beverage 

with the flavours of pineapple, 

peach citrus or strawberry. 

“We realized we could appeal 

to our tea customers looking for 

ways to customize their tea just 

as coffee drinkers do with their 

espresso beverages,” explains 

Melynda Cheng, product developer 

at Starbucks. 

The company also incorporated 

its Teavana teas into its Cupsof-Kindness 

collection (released 

in June), which featured Matcha 

Lemonade and the Ombre Pink 

Drink made with Cool Lime 

Starbucks Refreshers, coconut 

milk and Teavana Shaken Iced 

Passion Tango Tea. 

Top dogs 

Still the largest player in the 

Canadian coffee segment, Tim 

Hortons has made visible strides 

this year towards upping its cof- 

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fee game. In April, the chain 

launched a latte made with freshbrewed 

espresso and steamed 

milk. Despite its branding, the 

“perfectly uncomplicated latte” 

marked a shift from the brand’s 

prior powder-based espresso and 

required a significant equipment 

investment ($12,000/espresso 

machine). 

As part of the latte’s marketing 

campaign, Tim Hortons 

opened a pop-up shop in 

Toronto under the name 

Perfectly Uncomplicated Lattes, 

offering only its new latte, which 

is available only in one size. 

The brand later revealed it was 

behind the shop, just ahead of 

the drink’s national launch. Tims 

THIS YEAR SAW 

AN INFLUX OF 

CANADA-THEMED 

TEA BLENDS, THANKS 

TO CANADA’S 150TH 

ANNIVERSARY. TEA 

RETAILERS AND 

SUPPLIERS OFFERED 

THEMED TEAS 

BOASTING FLAVOURS 

RANGING FROM 

MAPLE TO ICEWINE. 

DAVID’S TEA, PLUCK 

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THE COMPANIES 

OFFERING THESE 

SPECIAL BLENDS. 

COOL OPERATORS Cold-brew coffee is 

among the leading trends in the coffeeand-tea 

segment for 2017 

also recently reimagined its dark 

roast, launching a “darker, richer 

Dark Roast coffee” in March. 

McDonald’s Canada is also 

making strides to improve the 

quality of its coffee offerings. 

Last fall, the chain released 

a new espresso blend for its 

McCafé specialty beverages. The 

brand and its franchisees are 

also investing in state-of-the-art 

Swiss equipment that will bring 

European-inspired espresso beverages 

to approximately 1,200 

restaurants nationwide by the 

end of this year. 

“We take immense pride 

in the reputation we’ve established 

for McCafé as a leading 

coffee brand in Canada,” says 

Michele Boudria, McCafé officer, 

McDonald’s Canada. “As 

we continue evolving the brand 

and build on the success of our 

McCafé brewed-coffee business, 

our new espresso blend demonstrates 

our continued commitment 

to delivering the best coffee 

experience in the country.” 

McCafé has also taken its coffee 

to new heights — literally 

— through a partnership with 

WestJet, which serves approximately 

30,000 cups of McCafé 

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Premium Roast coffee to 

WestJet customers, daily. 

Starbucks has made 

the ongoing premiumization 

of its brand and 

offerings a core focus of 

its growth strategy — a 

move that strives to better 

align the brand with 

the tastes and desires of 

younger consumers. In line with 

this initiative, the company has 

opened two Starbucks Reserve 

coffee bars in Canada within 

the past year. The first Canadian 

location of the concept opened 

in Ottawa’s ByWard Market last 

November, while the second 

opened in Vancouver in May. 

“Designed to integrate the 

educational aspects of the 

Seattle Roastery, this store 

includes an immersive coffee 

bar where our rare small-lot 

Reserve coffee comes to life by 

being handcrafted using stateof-the-art 

brewing techniques, 

including siphon, ceramic pour 

over, black eagle and Clover,” 

explains Mary Saunoris, associate 

Communications manager, 

Public Affairs, Starbucks Coffee 

Canada. “We know our customers 

are passionate about 

coffee and the new experiential 

Starbucks Reserve coffee bar provides 

an opportunity for them to 

discover a wide range of brewing 

techniques.” 

Tapping into consumers’ 

desire for variety and choice, 

Starbucks launched its Starbucks 

Blonde Espresso in Canada in 

February — marking the firstever 

addition to the company’s 

core espresso offerings. The 

chain’s recent launches have also 

included several beverages created 

using non-dairy milk alternatives, 

such as coconut milk and 

almond milk (introduced 

in January). 

The Digital Door 

As Technomic’s Winship points 

out, convenience is paramount 

in this competitive segment. This 

includes loyalty programs, as 

well as “Digital ordering channels 

and digital payment — anything 

to make the ordering process 

more convenient and seamless,” 

he explains. “Consumers 

tend to be more loyal to cafés in 

general — due to coffee preferences 

— but, because younger 

consumers want something new, 

they are less likely than older 

consumers to stick to specific 

brands when they get their coffee. 

But, they are more likely to 

say that loyalty programs will 

influence them to be loyal.” 

Starbucks has put significant 

focus on the development of 

its mobile app and loyalty program 

in recent years, through 

the launch of Mobile Order & 

Pay in 2015 and updates to its 

My Starbucks Rewards, which 

took place in spring 2016, and 

saw the program switch from 

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a transaction-based system to a 

spend-based system in Canada 

and the U.S. 

“Since the initial launch, 

we have seen strong demand 

for Mobile Order & Pay from 

Canadian customers,” says 

Saunoris. “We were the first 

national retailer to offer our own 

mobile-payment technology 

combined with a deep loyalty 

program and we’ve seen a tremendous 

response from our customers 

welcoming these 

innovations.” 

In December, Tim 

Hortons began testing 

mobile order-and-pay in 

25 locations in Ontario. 

This service was 

originally scheduled to 

launch March 30, however, 

according to the 

Globe and Mail, tensions 

between Tim Hortons 

franchisees and the chain’s parent 

company, Restaurant Brands 

International (RBI), delayed the 

release of this app, which was 

ultimately released in late July as 

an update through its new Tim 

Hortons app. 

Standing in stark contrast 

to its competitors, McDonald’s 

Canada’s coffee loyalty program 

remains distinctly low-tech. The 

chain’s free-coffee cards allow 

customers to redeem one free 

EDUCATION FOCUSED 

In April, Nespresso 

launched its Nespresso 

Academy in Montreal. 

Only the second of its 

kind, the Academy acts as 

a multi-purpose learning 

environment featuring a 

recreation of the company’s 

boutique concept, boardrooms 

and coffee lab. The lab, which is 

modeled after the development lab 

located at the company’s Swiss headquarters, is dedicated 

to coffee tasting — both of green coffee (cupping) 

and in its final form. 

“We are placing training at the heart of our corporate 

strategy in Canada and, for us, it was a no-brainer 

to have that space,” says Kate Gouron, coffee ambassador, 

Nespresso. 

Located inside the company’s Canadian headquarters, the 

Academy will be used to host training and special programming for Nespresso 

employees and trade partners, as well as chefs, sommeliers and other gastronomic 

experts. The facility will also host info and media events for the launch of new 

products. 

As Gouron explains, with coffee knowledge on the rise among Canadian consumers, 

it has become increasingly important to ensure their in-store team members 

— who are all coffee specialists — are educated. “It’s important for our staff to 

have the knowledge to ensure we can support all of our club members.” 

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medium hot drink for every 

seven stickers (found attached 

to McCafé cups) collected. The 

brand has given no indication 

of plans to update its program 

in Canada. 

That said, in light of 

McDonald’s recently launched 

partnership with UberEats, 

customers in Montreal, Ottawa, 

Toronto, the Greater Toronto 

Area and Edmonton can now 

get their favourite McCafé beverages 

delivered. 

It’s possible that this move 

could give McDonald’s a leg 

up on its café competition. As 

Winship points out, “industry 

wide, there has been a lot of 

push towards delivery,” though 

this hasn’t been reflected in 

coffee-focused establishments to 

the same degree. 

HAND CRAFTED The new Starbucks 

Reserve bar in Vancouver offers an 

elevated craft-coffee experience 

The Conscious Café 

The activistic nature of 

Millennials and Centennials 

has led to further changes to 

the coffee and tea segment. 

These groups identify best with 

brands that reflect their own 

values, spurring cafes to show 

off their socially and ethically 

conscious side. 

According to the 2017 

Canadian Bakery & Coffee Café 


Consumer Trend Report, 23 per 

cent of consumers stated they 

would be more likely to visit 

cafés that offer fair-trade coffee; 

16 per cent said the same for 

organically grown coffee. “Both 

of those skew to younger consumers,” 

notes Winship. 

By far, the most significant 

influencing factor was sustainability, 

with 63 per cent of consumers 

expressing a preference 

for sustainable items — a trend 

echoed throughout the foodservice 

industry. 

In response to these 

demands, McCafé has launched 

McCafé Premium Roast Keurig 

compostable pods in Canada, 

which are certified by the New 

York-based Biodegradable 

Products Institute and made 

out of plant-based materials, 

coffee-bean skin 

and other compostable 

materials. 

The brand’s 

specialty coffees 

are also made 

with 100-percent 

Rainforest 

Alliance Certified 

espresso beans. 

Coffee purveyors 

and café operations of all 

sizes have made visible commitments 

to social responsibility. 

Companies such as Starbucks 

and Nespresso have also placed 

sustainability and social responsibility 

at the core of their business 

plans through comprehensive 

2020 goals and initiatives. 

Many smaller and younger 

coffee and café brands in 

Canada have made these values 

central to their branding efforts. 

For example, Smile Tiger 

Coffee Roasters in Kitchener, 

Ont. creates and serves Direct 

Trade, transparently sourced 

coffees made in small batches 

and has done so since its launch 

in 2016. FH 

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COFFEE & TEA SHOW PREVIEW 

THE CANADIAN COFFEE 

& TEA SHOW PREVIEW 

A sneak peek at 

this year’s event 

The Canadian Coffee & Tea Show returns to Toronto this month, 

taking place at the The Toronto Congress Centre on September 24 

and 25. In response to sponsor and attendee feedback, the 2017 

instalment will feature extended tradeshow hours on day-two of 

the event — from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 

Among the show’s many features are several national 

competitions, including the Canadian Latte Art Championship and 

the Canadian Barista Championship. Zuccarini Importing will also 

host a series of complimentary barista workshops covering 

a variety of café-operations topics. 

Regional Roasts 

Nusa Coffee Company offers specialty blends from Indonesia, 

such as its Sumatra Gayo and Organic Flores Bajawa. Both 

produced from Arabica beans, Sumatra Gayo is grown in in 

rich, volcanic loam 1500 metres above the sea on Sumatra’s 

Gayo Mountain. Flores Bajawa is grown in the Bajawa region 

of the island Flores at altitudes as high as 1600 metres. 

Greener Roast 

Loring builds the greenest roasters on the 

planet, for Roastmasters who want to produce 

the best-tasting coffee from every bean. The 

company’s designs feature a patented singleburner 

design, which roasts coffee beans while 

also incinerating smoke, eliminating the need 

for an afterburner. 

A Rare Blend 

Go Sleeveless 

JS Tunggal Group Inc. produces lines of insulated 

paper hot-beverage cups that eliminate 

the need for sleeves or java jackets while 

ensuring the liquids stay warm longer. 

JS Tunggal is a direct importer and distributor 

of specialized paper food packaging. All 

products are customizable, uniquely designed 

and cost efficient. 

High Grown 

Red Spatula’s Bali Kintamani 

Coffee offers a unique blend of light 

citrus — orange and lemon peel 

with a light tinge of grape acidity 

— giving you a pleasant fresh 

feeling. This unique blend, with its 

rich flavours and sensorial notes, 

comes from its authentic origins 

in Kintamani, located at 1100- to 

1600-meters above sea levels in 

Bali, Indonesia. 

Caldera Coffee produces rare and exotic Wild Luwak coffee from the finest Arabica beans processed by 

the wild luwak (civet) to produce its special flavour. It is specially packaged as whole beans or ground to 

suit customer preference. The product is roasted to produce a sweet, fruity, spicy, full-bodied coffee with 

wide range acidity, extraordinary aftertaste and a smooth aroma and taste. 

Sweet 

Alternative 

VITIC Enterprise’s Organic 

Coconut Palm Sugar is a pure, 

unrefined alternative to processed 

sugar and artificial 

sweeteners. The sustainably 

grown, Non-GMO Project Verified 

sweetener is produced from the 

flower bud of the coconut tree. 

Organic coconut sugar has naturally 

occurring nutrients including 

Magnesium, Potassium, Zinc, 

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EQUIPMENT TRENDS REPORT 

FREAKING OUT The 

Control Freak induction 

system is loaded with 

smart features 

Restaurateurs are looking abroad for 

the latest and greatest equipment ideas 

BY DENISE DEVEAU 

THE EQUIPMENT WORLD IS RAPIDLY EVOLVING, but it’s not all about the technology 

bells and whistles — although those play a prominent role. There are a number 

of trends afoot, from the newest induction- and laser-inspired applications 

to a revival of old-school practices such as fermenting and drying. 




Kitchen design itself is taking 

on new dimensions, with modular 

and/or wall-mounted appliances 

doing their part to add 

flexibility and improve health 

and safety. As kitchen footprints 

shrink, restaurateurs are freeing 

up space with powerful, more 

versatile solutions. 

Slow-cook and rapid-cook 

systems are being adopted in 

equal measure and there’s no 

shortage of nifty gadgets for 

the more experimental crowd, 

including molecular-gastronomy 

tools and specialized tech 

for pâtisserie. 

Not surprisingly, much inspiration 

can be found in European 

and Asian markets, where technology 

such as combi-ovens, 

induction and sous vide have 

been a matter of course for years. 

“Europe is so far ahead with 

equipment,” says John Higgins, 

director and corporate chef at 

George Brown College’s Centre 

for Hospitality & Culinary Arts. 

“They’ve been using combiovens 

for 20 to 30 years and 

they’re everywhere.” 

During his travels, Torontobased 

chef Susur Lee has seen 

restaurant designers incorporating 

smaller, more powerful and 

“I find 

that’s the 

direction the 

industry is 

going - 

having one 

[piece of] 

equipment 

you can 

do three 

different 

things on” 

HIGH-TECH TOYS The Thermomix 

from Vorwerk is an all-in-one 

kitchen appliance 

multi-functional equipment 

choices in order to accommodate 

smaller spaces. “I saw an appliance 

from Japan that can do 

deep frying, stewing, steaming, 

broiling, boiling and searing. 

Everything was computerized. 

I find that’s the direction the 

industry is going — having one 

[piece of] equipment you can do 

three different things on.” 

There are a number of 

advancements happening on the 

equipment front — both large 

and small. Here’s a roundup of 

what some industry experts who 

have travelled the world have 

to say. 

New school 

Combi-ovens may be a standard 

play in Europe, but Higgins says 

there have been some recent 

variations which are much 

smaller and more affordable for 

smaller operations. Garland and 

Rational are putting out ovens 

with a lot more variety and ver- 


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“Younger people need to learn to cook 

properly without a water bath ” 

— Ron McKinlay, Canoe 

SIZE MATTERS Combi-ovens are 

becoming smaller and more 

affordable for smaller operators 

satility, he notes. There are also a 

lot more ventless models, thanks 

to a big push for reducing environmental 

footprints. 

Ron McKinlay, the recently 

appointed chef de cuisine at 

Canoe in Toronto, is all for 

appliances that are common 

household items in Europe and 

elsewhere. “One piece I love is the 

Thermomix super power blender. 

It cooks and blends to precise 

temperatures. You’ll find them 

everywhere in Europe.” 

Another mainstay, he says, is 

induction. “Australia is changing 

a lot to induction because the 

carbon footprint is that much 

smaller. It’s not just that it’s cost 

effective, but pans last up to 10 

years. And now there’s an entire 

range of induction equipment 

available, from cooktops to griddles 

to kettles.” 

The biggest trends John 

Placko, chef/owner of 

the Modern Culinary Academy 

in Toronto, has seen are in sous 

vide, combi-ovens and induction 

cooktops. “I was just in Iceland 

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FIRED UP TurboChef pizza ovens have become 

a popular choice for operators 

busy venues at airports and other 

high-traffic areas, Placko adds. 

Some newer models are adding 

eye-popping colours to the 

mix, such as the Turbochef Fire 

pizza oven that can cook a pizza 

in 90 seconds with a palette that 

includes yellow, green and brightred 

units. 

earlier this year and they were 

using sous vide,” he says. “It’s 

pretty much standard in restaurants 

today, partly because the 

price [of equipment] has gone 

down and chefs can work with 

cheaper cuts, improve yields and 

get consistent results.” 

Placko notes combiovens 

have evolved from 

the large-scale units with 

roll-in racks to units the 

size of a domestic wall 

oven for smaller restaurants. 

“They’re so versatile 

and energy efficient — and a 

lot smarter, so you can do things 

wirelessly. One of the reasons 

we’re seeing the growth is the 

availability of skilled staff is really, 

really tight.” 

On the induction side, Placko 

is a fan of panini grills that can 

turn out a grilled-cheese sandwich 

in 30 seconds. Another 

favourite gaining widespread 

popularity is The Control Freak 

induction system from U.S.-based 

PolyScience, which is loaded with 

smart features including digital 

displays, programmable settings 

and remote thermometer. “It’s an 

awesome machine for sous vide, 

deep frying and more; and it uses 

all sorts of sensors to constantly 

monitor temperatures.” 

Rapid-cook ovens continue to 

grow in popularity, particularly in 

Old school 

While McKinlay is now working 

in an all-induction environment 

at Canoe, he joins a number of 

chefs who also believe in preserving 

proper traditional cooking 

techniques. “Younger people need 

to learn to cook properly without 

a water bath,” he says. 

One of the basic cooking 

trends influenced by Asian 

and Middle-Eastern cuisine is 

charcoal grilling, he says. “It’s 

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becoming a big thing in Australia 

because they are so influenced 

by Asian cuisine. It’s as primitive 

a cooking method as you can get.” 

Lee is also a proponent of traditional 

equipment and confesses 

he has yet to buy a combi-oven 

— although he hasn’t ruled out 

the possibility for the future. 

“I am old school. I always use a 

stove that I can turn on with fire. 

But I am starting to use a variety 

of newer things.” His latest investment 

is a Hobart Tilt machine for 

stews and sauces. “It’s really great 

and doesn’t burn things easily.” 

Another tried-and-true traditional 

process making inroads in 

North America is fermentation. 

“In Spain everyone is fermenting,” 

Higgins says. “You need 

good stainless-steel equipment 

and precision to do it right.” 

Yan Garzon, corporate chef for 

Testek Inc. in Montreal, says the 

demand for fermenting, dehydration 

and charcuterie equipment 

is on the rise. “Tools such as sausage 

stuffers, meat grinders and 

big dehydrators are getting more 

popular.” A new addition still 

being tested at Testek is a coldtemperature 

dehydrator. “They 

used to cost $20,000; now there’s 

a unit that’s $7,000.” 

Pressure cookers are also making 

a comeback, Garzon says. 

“Chefs are rediscovering old tools 

like grandma used to use.” 

Make room 

for working 

The need for more elbow room 

in smaller kitchens is leading 

to some interesting design 

innovations, notes Patrick Watt, 

principal with A Day in Life 

Foodservice Development in 

Saint John, N.B. “In Europe, it’s 

all about cleanliness, food safety 

and clean surfaces. I’m seeing a 

lot of pedestal and wall-mounted 

equipment to allow room underneath 

for cleaning. Most cooking 

equipment, tables and workstations 

are being mounted that 

HOT, HOT, HOT Many Canadian 

kitchens have switched to 

all-induction environments 

way. Some even have hydraulic 

systems to adjust the height. The 

finishing details of equipment are 

also much more seamless with 

coved corners, which makes them 

easier to clean and prevents bacteria 

buildup.” 

Another European trend is 

recycled content in appliances, he 

adds. “Europe has a big push on 

that. LEED (Leadership in Energy 

and Environmental Design) in 

North America is not looking at 

that aspect yet.” 

Vertical equipment configurations 

are another innovation that 

allow for bigger plating areas, 

he says. “There’s a shift to more 

modular and/or shallower pieces 

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BREAKFAST 

SPEAKER 

SERIES 

www.kostuchmedia.com/shop 

FEATURED SPEAKERS 

IN CONVERSATION 

WITH JAMIE KENNEDY 

For more than 30 years, Jamie Kennedy has been 

a central figure in Canada’s culinary journey. More 

than any other Toronto chef, Jamie has revolutionized 

the city’s cuisine and put Toronto on the culinary 

map. But beyond that, he’s also been one of the first 

chefs to embrace local ingredients and champion 

Canadian cuisine. Over the past three decades, 

Jamie has garnered praise, accolades and awards 

as one of Canada’s most accomplished chefs, 

including the Order of Canada. In the process, he’s 

inspired a legion of other successful Canadian 

chefs. In this fall’s instalment of Icons Innovators, 

learn what makes Jamie one of the most influential 

chefs of our time. Don’t miss this great opportunity 

to experience a one-on-one candid conversation 

between Foodservice and Hospitality editor and 

publisher Rosanna Caira and Jamie Kennedy. 

ROSANNA CAIRA 

Editor & Publisher 

Kostuch Media Ltd. 

JAMIE KENNEDY 

Chef/Owner 

Jamie Kennedy Kitchens 

OCTOBER 5, 2017 

Chelsea Hotel, Toronto 

TO REGISTER & 

FOR MORE INFORMATION 

visit www.kostuchmedia.com/shop 

416-447-0888 ext. 235 

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of equipment. If you’re cooking 

[with] induction, you can have 

a single-burner depth cooktop 

and the resting shelf above rather 

than on back burners.” 

Futuristic 

equipment 

Perhaps some of the most “outthere” 

aspects of equipment 

design and innovation can be 

found in bars and pâtisseries 

around the world. Placko says 

liquid nitrogen dewars are 

appearing in more kitchens and 

cocktail bars. 

Thomas Haas of Thomas 

Haas Chocolates in Vancouver 

says the pâtisserie world is 

seeing more industrial-grade 

tools making their way into the 

market. One entry from the 

food-processing world is microprinting 

machines for macaroons 

and chocolates, which range 

from $8,000 to $16,000. Another 

is water-jet and laser cutters for 

cutting cakes and ganaches with 

absolute precision. 

Haas is currently trying out 

a computerized truffle-filling 

machine developed by a German 

company specializing in metal 

parts for giant brake systems. 

“It’s a neat artisanal machine 

that’s very hygienic.” 

One idea that still carries a 

FUTURISTIC FOOD 3D printers have 

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lofty price tag is 3D printers for 

chocolate bars and mold making. 

“At this stage, it’s a novelty and 

not realistic for real production,” 

Haas says. 

Whether going ultra-high-tech 

or traditional with equipment 

choices, most experts will agree 

that a global perspective can keep 

you ahead of the game. FH 

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CHEF’S CORNER 

LOCAL FOCUS 

Chris Aerni lets the seasons guide his 

culinary creations at the Rossmount Inn 

BY TOM VENETIS 

Chris Aerni always wanted to get back to the 

countryside. Having trained in Interlaken, 

Switzerland and worked at the Stella Hotel, 

Aerni later travelled and worked at the Two 

Faces restaurant in Melbourne, Australia in 

the1980s. In Toronto during the 1990s, Aerni worked 

with Mövenpick, operating the brasserie and fish market 

in the trendy Yorkville neighbouthood and later overseeing 

the Marché eateries. Aerni finally got the chance to 

go back to the countryside when the Rossmount Inn in 

St. Andrews, N.B. came on the market. In 2001, he and 

his wife, Graziella, purchased the 18-room, three-storey 

country inn located on 87 acres at the base of Chamcook 

Mountain, with views of Passamaquoddy Bay and 

Minister’s Island. 

“I always had this idea of having a country inn somewhere 

beautiful in Canada — of having a restaurant 

which would source local fresh Canadian products,” 

he says. 

Aerni grew up in a family with strong ties to agriculture 

and food. His grandparents owned a small dairy 

BITS & BITES 

Favourite 

Food Memory 

“Sunday lunch was 

always a big family 

meal. There was always 

a special cut of meat 

or homemade pasta.” 

Favourite Culinary 

Destination 

“The south of France, 

Spain and Italy.” 

What do you 

cook at home? 

“When I cook for 

myself, I try to keep it 

simple. It will be a nice 

piece of fish, 

some local greens 

and a nice wine.” 

farm in Switzerland where he would 

spend his summers as a child and his 

mother practiced organic farming 

well before it was trendy. He remembers 

the cherries, pears and other 

fruits his family would gather to 

make preserves — instilling in him 

a respect for local products and the 

importance of knowing where food 

and ingredients come from. 

So it’s no surprise Aerni puts a 

particular emphasis on sourcing 

all of his ingredients locally for the 

Rossmount Inn and gets to know his 

suppliers personally. He jokes that 

not only can he tell diners where 

their lobster was caught, but also the 

name of the fisherman and the location 

of the lobster trap. 

Aerni likens his culinary 

approach to a painter with a 

changing colour palette. “Our menu 

rolls with the seasons,” he says. “It 

isn’t fixed — it changes to highlight what’s in season and 

what is available each day. 

Aerni also harvests his own vegetables and herbs from 

his kitchen garden and can be found foraging for fiddleheads, 

cattails, high-bush cranberries, chanterelles and 

boletus mushrooms. Dishes include rosemary-marinated 

quail breast with French-bean salad and sour-cream 

dressing ($12); slow-cooked margret de canard with 

garlic-mashed potatoes, local organic vegetables and a 

haskap-berry reduction ($32); butter-poached “naked” 

lobster with chive-ricotta ravioli, lobster reduction, 

spinach and garden peas ($42); and a sweet-basil pastry 

cream éclair with rhubarb-strawberry compote and 

almond crackling ($9). 

“If there is a specific ingredient available right now, we 

are flexible enough to include it on our menu,” he adds. 

“We have to accommodate the best of the local products 

available on any given day. I deal with many small farmers 

and spend time with them, walk through their fields 

and talk to them about what is coming up. You have to 

build relationships with your suppliers.” FH 

SHANNON-MAY PRINGLE [CHEF CHRIS AERNI PORTRAIT] 


BEET, CORN AND CILANTRO SALAD 

ON NAAN BREAD 

Bonduelle Chunky Beets Vacuum Packed 

6 x 2.84 L 

Bonduelle Code: 10052 

For more recipes, visit 

bonduelle-foodservice.ca

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September 2017 Digital Issue

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