Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine 

A DAY IN 

THE LIFE OF 

A GEISHA 

"It is difficult to have a 

truly beautiful life, but 

this comes close to it" 

FIND YOUR 

PERFECT 

KYUSHU 

Four Trips for 

Four Types 

PLUS: Q&A with Anime Director Keiichi Hara, Are Robots Taking Our Jobs?, Explore Japanese Cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda Guide

Miss Hokusai ©2014-2015 Hinako Sugiura, MS.HS / Sarusuberi Film Partners 

28 

18 24 

26 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: TSUKUDA 

If you don't have time for a proper getaway, 

then Tsukuda is ideal as an inner-city escape. 

10 STYLE: LEGENDS OF THE FALL 

Timeless items for a versatile autumn 

wardrobe. 

12 TRENDS: EXPLORE JAPANESE 

CUISINE AT GINZA SIX 

To sample a variety of Japanese dishes 

in one place, look no further. 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

18 FIND YOUR PERFECT KYUSHU 

Four trips for four types. 

24 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A GEISHA 

We speak with Sayuki, Japan's first foreign 

geisha, to find out about her daily life. 

26 ARE THE ROBOTS TAKING 

OUR JOBS? 

Not quite yet, but they are filling in a few 

gaps from hotel staff to Buddhist monks. 

28 AN INDEPENDENT STREAK 

On the eve of the first major retrospective 

of his work at this month’s TIFF, anime 

director Keiichi Hara talks about why he decided 

to set out on his own as a filmmaker. 

30 THE FUTURE OF JAPANESE FOOTBALL 

Meet the man who believes he can change 

the game. 

32 DREAM POWDER 

Material Matcha Uji is looking to breathe life 

into the country's matcha industry. 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

34 ART & THEATER 

Possibly the most exciting news in Tokyo art 

circles this month is the opening of the Yayoi 

Kusama Museum: get ready to immerse 

yourself in polka dots. 

40 AGENDA 

What's on for Halloween, plus a grand tea 

ceremony, the Tokyo Ramen Show, and four 

reasons to visit Tabisuru Shintora Market's 

autumn edition. 

38 AUTUMN EDUCATION SPECIAL 

Catch up on the latest news and views from 

The British School in Tokyo, Aoba-Japan 

Extension, and more. 

42 SOCIETY 

Tokyo's longest-running social column. 

OCTOBER 2017

OCTOBER 2017 

Publisher 

President 

Executive Producer 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editors 

Creative Director 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Lisa Wallin 

Liam Ramshaw 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Bill Hersey 

Bunny Bissoux 

Carolin Riedhammer 

Sabrina Riedhammer 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Azusa Yoshida 

Marketing Director 

Media Consultant 

Media Producers 

Jessica Yumi Idomoto 

Mary Rudow 

Claudia Sun 

Yuda Chou 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 

Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 

(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) 

info@engawa.global 

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広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

4 | OCTOBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@mizrama: Alec, are you worried about robots taking 

your job [page 26]? 

@bapawn: Fortunately, I think that coming up with 

witty copy and changing diapers is still at least a 

decade away. But I think the rise of robots in different 

occupations has the potential to really change the future 

“works.” Do you think there’s any kind of job that will 

be beyond the capabilities of robots in the future? 

@mizrama: That’s difficult to say without properly 

understanding the technology. But I did hear that the 

robot staff at Henn-na Hotel aren’t able to make up beds 

or answer certain questions. So it seems the technology 

is still relatively limited, at least in terms of completely 

replacing humans. I wonder if they’ll make robot geisha 

one day? 

@bapawn: Well, I’ve seen Pepper and Asimo put on 

some impressive moves, but I don’t think they’ll be able 

to rival the aesthetic heights that geisha seem able to 

ascend to. And that’s a good thing. 

@bapawn: Yes, Keiichi Hara was an interesting 

character to interview [page 30]. For a director whose 

films often soar into flights of fancy, he was very 

serious and thoughtful. I’m glad he’ll be getting some 

recognition at this year’s Tokyo International Film 

Festival. 

@mizrama: Getting back to robots … I wonder if 

humanoids will ever feel the need to take vacations and 

travel? I just spent three days in Kyushu to research this 

month’s special feature about the island [page 18], and 

now I’m wondering if at some point we’ll be sending 

robots on press trips! 

@bapawn: Robot or not, I think they’ll be clamoring 

to head down to Kyushu. There’s just something about 

that part of Japan; everything seems to move a bit more 

slowly. 

@mizrama: Absolutely. Even though we packed in a 

huge amount of activities, it never felt rushed. Both the 

food and air somehow seem fresher. 

@mizrama: I’m sure Sayuki, the geisha we interviewed 

this month, would agree [page 24]. Presumably, 

creatives like the anime director you interviewed 

would feel the same. 

@bapawn: Hmm. Maybe there’s a gap in the market for 

a Kyushu Weekender... 

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

The old-school neighborhood of Tsukuda is our new favorite inner-city getaway, while 

upmarket department store Ginza Six is titillating our tastebuds with its Japanese cuisine. 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | OCTOBER 2017 | 7

AREA GUIDE 

Words by Paul McInnes. Photographs by Stephan Jarvis 

If you don’t have time to escape the city to (overrated) 

spots such as Enoshima, then Tsukuda is ideal as a 

getaway within the metropolis 

AN INNER-CITY ESCAPE 

Tsukuda isn’t exactly a physical place. It’s 

more of an idea, a utopia, an idyll. Separated, 

by means of a simple road, from neighboring 

Tsukishima – home of the much-loved 

monjayaki – Tsukuda is like no other place in 

Tokyo. Tranquil, relaxed and on the Sumida 

River, the tiny island ebbs and flows along 

with the nearby water. Five minutes from 

Tsukiji and Ginza, which are literally across 

the water and a stone’s throw away from 

places like Hatchobori and Monzen- 

Nakacho, it’s a magical hideaway with 

pockets of enchantment. 

Tsukuda was originally a natural sandbank 

at the mouth of the river. The land was 

built upon and expanded, in early Edo times, 

by fishermen from Osaka who were invited 

to the area by legendary shogun Tokugawa 

Ieyasu. The area played host to a famous 

ferry service to and from the mainland and 

for people coming to pray at the island’s 

Sumiyoshi Shrine. The ferry service was 

discontinued in 1964 – the year of the first 

Tokyo Olympics, as Tsukuda Bridge was 

finally completed. 

TRADITIONAL TASTES 

Tsukuda is the birthplace of tsukudani – a 

salty, sweet preserve of ingredients such as 

fish, shrimp, shellfish and seaweed which 

have been simmered in soy sauce, mirin, 

sugar, and salt. It’s often accompanied by 

rice. There are still a few tsukudani shops 

in the area such as oldest, Tenyasu, and 

Tsukuda-gen Tanakaya, which both date 

back to the early 19th century. There is also 

Yamamoto Shouten, a cute, traditional ice 

cream and sweet shop as well as a general 

store which sells alcoholic and non-alcoholic 

treats. Many amateur fisherman in the area, 

as well as some domestic tourists, seem to 

love nothing more than a strong chu-hi or 

beer to accompany them as the scorching 

summer heat meets the early evening sunset. 


LADA GAGA HAS SHOPPED HERE 

Immediately after crossing the iridescent Tsukuda 

Kobashi bridge, visitors are usually confronted by a small 

group of people lined up outside Hideyasu Nakajima’s 

small, ramshackle store of traditional monozukuri 

(artisanship). In this case the monozukuri on display is 

Nakajima’s handcrafted and legendary eight-sided chopsticks 

and eye-wateringly expensive lacquerware. Lady 

Gaga and several other celebs are big fans of this place 

and the shokunin (artisan) has been featured in publications 

such as GQ and a multitude of respected guidebooks. 

One of the charming idiosyncrasies of Tsukuda is the fact 

that sometimes the stores there are unmanned. The owners 

naturally trust that customers will always do the right 

thing and leave payment for anything bought. It’s a legacy 

from Japan’s rural and agricultural past and something 

not usually associated with the hustle and bustle of 21st 

century life in an international city. 

SEEK AND YOU SHALL FIND… 

In addition to some beautiful and authentic nagaya (wooden 

houses), the tiny island has some gems hidden away in its 

nooks and crannies. Tucked down a tiny alleyway between 

two rows of houses is the Buddhist Tsukuda Tenzai Jizoson, 

which is the “Guardian Deity of Children” according to a 

posted sign. It’s a tiny dimly lit room with a huge old tree 

standing in the middle of it. As you walk down this atmospheric 

passageway you are met by the compact Namiyoke 

Inari Jinja – devoted to the protection of local fishermen. 

Further across the island is Sumiyoshi Shrine, the architectural 

highlight of any visit here. The shrine, established in 

the 1600s, stands proud across from Tsukuda Park, which 

is a few minutes from the calming Sumida riverbank, and 

under the apartment buildings that encircle the island. 


STYLE 

ALEXANDER WANG BAG 

Cross-body bags are the ideal accessory for daily wear, 

as you don't need to put a heavy load on one shoulder. 

This version from Alexander Wang is big enough to 

carry your everyday necessities but small enough to 

take to a cocktail party. Made from burgundy quilted 

textured leather, this bag is adorned with metal studs 

and is fitted with card slots, bill compartments and a 

coin pouch so you can just throw everything in. 

alexanderwang.com 

TIMELESS ITEMS FOR A 

VERSATILE AUTUMN 

WARDROBE 

Compiled by Vivian Morelli 

IRO LEATHER SKIRT 

We can’t get enough of French brand 

IRO, which perfectly combines the cool 

effortlessness of street wear with a 

quintessential Parisian spirit. This leather 

skirt sums up the label’s style pretty well: 

edgy yet classic enough that you’ll wear 

it for several seasons. You might feel 

hesitant about adding a leather skirt to 

your wardrobe, but paired with the right 

top and accessories, it’s a stylish and 

timeless item. We’ll wear ours paired 

with a chunky knit jumper, ankle boots 

and just a bit of attitude. 

iroparis.com

DRIES VAN NOTEN BOOTS 

Famed as one of the original Antwerp Six, Dries van Noten is known 

for his timeless pieces and avant-garde twist. Each one of his pieces 

presents fine details that fashion lovers can truly appreciate, and this 

pair of boots is no exception. Crafted in Italy from smooth leather, 

these boots are rugged yet stylish. They come with long laces that can 

be wrapped around the ankles and give a little bit of a punk rock vibe 

while remaining elegant. Bonus: they’ll match pretty much everything 

you already own. driesvannoten.com 

MONCLER GAMME 

BLEU TROUSERS 

The Moncler Gamme Bleu Autumn/Winter 

2017 collection was designed by none other 

than Thom Browne, so you can expect 

tailored pieces with a bit of quirkiness. 

Made in Italy from thick navy wool, these 

slim-cut trousers will keep you warm all 

through winter, just like every other piece 

by Moncler. They feature four pockets and 

an adjustable tab at the back to get your 

preferred fit. This autumn, wear them 

rolled up and style them with chunky boots, 

a simple T-shirt and a light scarf. 

moncler.com 

RAG & BONE 

DENIM JACKET 

Denim jackets have never gone out of style, 

and we predict they never will either. You 

can also wear them year-round, whether 

it’s on a chilly late summer evening or 

in winter under your parka. If you don’t 

already own one, now is the time to invest, 

and this Rag & Bone number will do the 

trick. We like the light wash, the fitted 

cut and the high-quality denim, which is 

sourced from Japan’s Kaihara mill, best 

known for its indigo dyeing techniques. 

rag-bone.com 

STELLA MCCARTNEY 

BLAZER 

This autumn, if you only choose one staple 

item to add to your wardrobe, a classic (and 

versatile) blazer should be it. Forget about 

boxy, heavily shoulder-padded numbers. 

Instead, go for a fitted and structured 

blazer – throw it over a casual white tee, or 

wear it over a blouse for a more dressed-up 

look. This checked wool blazer from British 

designer Stella McCartney ticks all the boxes 

and it’s a piece you will keep forever. Wear 

it with the matching trousers, or with jeans 

and a pair of heels. stellamccartney.com

[ PROMOTION ] 

TRENDS 

EXPLORE 

JAPANESE 

CUISINE AT 

GINZA SIX 

When any local or visitor 

to Tokyo is asked 

what they love most 

about the city, more 

often than not the cuisine makes it 

to the top of the list. Plenty of tourists 

come here purely for the food, 

and chefs around the globe rave 

about the quality of the ingredients. 

But when time is short, how can you 

manage to try out a wide variety 

of Japanese cuisine? New luxury 

department store GINZA SIX, which 

opened its doors in April, has solved 

this dilemma by launching an array 

of restaurants and shops that pretty 

much cover all bases. From yakiniku 

and tempura to tea cocktails and 

matcha parfaits, the shopping center 

is a paradise for foodies. To help 

you navigate your way around, 

we've selected our top 10 restaurants 

serving local dishes. And just in case 

you're craving a bottle of red from 

Bordeaux or a sweet pie from L.A., 

we've also rounded up five treats for 

those with more cosmopolitan tastes. 

GINZA GRAND PREMIUM FOOD HALL 

To sample a variety of Japanese dishes in one place, head to the Ginza Grand Premium Food Hall on the 

6th floor. Counter-seating shops with noren curtains serve cuisine from selected restaraunts and shops 

from all over Japan. There are 10 eateries in total, including one tea salon known for its top quality tea. 

HOKKAIDO UEDAGUMI 

While you can find exceptionally fresh fish 

pretty much anywhere in Japan, Hokkaido is 

particularly known for its high quality seafood. 

It's also known for a dish called kaisendon, a 

seafood bowl that includes rice topped with 

sashimi and other ingredients. You can sample 

several varieties of this dish at Uedagumi, 

which only serves fish from Shibetsu, a city in 

Hokkaido that's known for its excellent salmon, 

scallops, trout and shellfish. You're in good hands 

with regards to the sushi chef too – Katsuharu 

Takano earned his stripes at Ginza Kyubey, often 

considered one of Tokyo's top sushi restaurants. 

TSUKIJI BAR WITH UORIKI 

If you choose just one of the 10 eateries 

at Ginza Grand Premium Food 

Hall, we recommend Tsukiji Bar with 

Uoriki, where you can enjoy a classic 

ceviche created by renowned pioneer 

of molecular gastronomy Chikara 

Yamada. The menu is designed to be 

enjoyed with a glass of champagne. 

Also, on the last Friday of every 

month from 3pm to 9pm, they 

host a Japanese sake-tasting event 

where you can sample renowned 

sake brands from around the 

country. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

MIXOLOGY SALON 

Founded by master mixologist Shuzo Nagumo, 

Mixology Salon's speciality is the "teatail": 

cocktails made with high quality Japanese 

green tea leaves. First-timers should try the 

Gyokuro Cocktail Course, which includes 

three infusions of gyokuro (the highest quality 

green tea in Japan) to allow you to experience 

different flavor strengths. At the end, you get 

to eat the remaining tea leaves with smoked 

oyster soy sauce, and you'll also be treated 

to homemade gyokuro vodka. Those who're 

looking for an autumn seasonal offering 

should go for the Pear and Taiwan Oolong 

Cocktail. 

THE GRAND GINZA 

Occupying 1,500m² on the top floor 

of GINZA SIX, this luxury space 

features a lounge, restaurant, bar, 

and teahouse all designed to stimulate 

the six senses and let visitors 

enjoy a sensual dining experience. 

Be sure to stop by THE GRAND 

VIP, which boasts extraordinarily 

beautiful Japanese décor with a 

contemporary touch – the folding 

screen, for example, is handpainted 

by kimono designer Jotaro Saito 

– and an exquisite tea ceremony 

room (reservations required via 

www.grandginza.com/vip). 

TEMPURA YAMANOUE GINZA 

TEPPANYAKI 10 GINZA 

One of the most-loved cuisines in 

Japan, teppanyaki refers to food that is 

cooked on an iron griddle. If you're in 

the mood for an extravagant meal, go 

for the lunch course at Teppanyaki 10 

Ginza and enjoy specialties such as sea 

urchin, wagyu steak, and abalone. For 

autumn 2017, they're serving a limitededition 

champagne cocktail featuring 

ingredients such as orange, cinnamon 

and cherry. 

Even if this is your first time in Japan, you've most 

likely already heard of, and tasted, tempura. But 

don't underestimate the ability of Japanese chefs to 

make everything taste – and look – better. At Tempura 

Yamanoue Ginza, the Ai dinner course highlights the 

senses of each season and the richness of Japanese 

ingredients. The tempura batter is silky and light, 

and you'll be treated to a performance by culinary 

artisans to demonstrate the deep-frying process. 

To top off the experience, your meal is served in 

custom-made traditional Japanese lacquerware. 

Private dining rooms are available. 

GINZA SIX 

Address: 6-10-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku 

Web: https://ginza6.tokyo 

Restaurant opening hours: 11am-11:30pm 

Store opening hours: 10:30am-8:30pm 

(Subject to change for certain restaurants and stores) 


[ PROMOTION ] 

IMADEYA GINZA 

Founded in 1962, Imadeya 

Ginza stocks around 1,000 

varieties of local sake, 

shochu and wine. Believing 

that "you can tell a story 

with each bottle of liquor," 

Imadeya works closely with 

artisans around Japan to 

learn about their sophisticated 

brewing techniques and 

understand the back stories 

of each brand. If you're 

looking for a souvenir or 

gift, consider the Imadeya 

original Ryujo Sherry, a 

blend of four different rice 

shochu aged for 11 years in a 

sherry cask. 

YAKINIKU SANSUI 

Imagine an indoor barbecue, with 

beef and pork sliced into bite-sized 

pieces, cooked on a miniature 

grill that sits in the center of your 

dinner table, and eaten with 

chopsticks. This is yakiniku: a very 

civilized yet no less entertaining 

version of the Western barbecue. 

At Yakiniku Sansui, the experience 

is taken to the next level with 

a selection of only the best 

quality kuroge wagyu, which is 

considered Japan's highest grade 

of beef. It's fatty and succulent 

and full of flavor. The chef here 

carefully selects the best parts of 

the meat each day, and insists that 

it is served without cold storage so 

as to preserve its fine taste. 

NAKAMURA TOKICHI 

Originally founded in 1854, Nakamura Tokichi 

uses a selection of precious Japanese teas to 

develop unique desserts. Definitely try their 

custom-made matcha parfait which lets you 

choose different ingredients such as kuri 

(Japanese chestnuts), raspberries, and arare 

(roasted rice crackers). From October 1 to 

November 30, you can enjoy a special autumn 

afternoon tea set including a variety of cakes and 

two types of tea. 

GINZA SENNENKOUJIYA 

If you can't make it all the way to Japan's Niigata Prefecture 

to visit the Hakkaisan sake brewery, you'll be pleased 

to know you can browse almost the entire Hakkaisan 

lineup right here at Ginza Sennenkoujiya. For a truly 

unique sake, we suggest picking up a bottle of snow-aged 

Junmai Ginjo, which is matured for three years in a store 

room that's naturally chilled by an abundance of snow. 

The snow acts as a refrigerator, keeping the temperature 

at three degrees Celsius. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

5 TREATS 

FOR GLOBAL 

FOODIE FANS 

THE PIE HOLE LOS ANGELES 

First opened in Los Angeles in 2011, 

The Pie Hole is a family-run business 

known for their unique sweet pies. 

Their branch in GINZA SIX sells all the 

firm favorites from L.A. along with a 

few extra Japanese flavors. For a taste 

of everything, the Sweet Assort Box is 

ideal as it's "a pie made up of different 

pies" (think apple crumble, matcha, 

pecan pie and more). For fall, try their 

Chestnut Mont Blanc (until October 31). 

WINE SHOP ENOTECA 

Incorporating a wine shop and cellar, a 

café and bar, and an art corner, Enoteca 

caters to the wine connoisseur's every 

need. You'll find more than 1,600 varieties 

on offer, from easy drinking daily wines 

to renowned premium brands. One of 

their newest products is Rose Del Borro 

2016, produced by Il Borro winery, which 

is based in Tuscany, Italy, and owned by 

fashion designer Salvatore Ferragamo. If 

you have time to linger longer, Enoteca sells 

wine by the glass for just ¥500 each, giving 

you the chance to sample before you buy 

(be sure to try one of their wine cocktails). 

JASMINE WASHINKANSAI 

The philosophy of this restaurant 

is reflected in the store name, as 

washinkansai means "Chinese cooking with 

a Japanese spirit." Essentially, they seek 

to merge traditional Chinese cuisine with 

the Japanese sensibility of wa (harmony). 

The speciality is their mouth-watering 

chicken dish that's flavored with 15 spices, 

and served in a bowl of original black 

vinegar and chili oil sauce. Also highly 

recommended is the spicy Sichuan-style 

sukiyaki (hot pot) dish featuring roast beef, 

negi mochi (sticky rice cake with spring 

onions), edible chrysanthemums, and tofu. 

SALT GRILL & TAPAS BAR 

BY LUKE MANGAN 

This is the first grill and tapas concept 

restaurant by Australian star chef Luke 

Mangan, who now runs a total of 21 

restaurants around the world. Settle 

into the modern rustic atmosphere and 

prepare to relish premium-grade Aussie 

beef, which you'll find on the a la carte 

menu in the main dining room. For a 

more casual affair, relax in the bar and 

lounge area while tucking into tapas 

paired with handcrafted cocktails – we 

love their quirky names such as Flying 

Kangaroo and Office Romance. 

IL CARDINALE 

Love Italian food? Il Cardinale is 

afiliated with the long-standing 

Ristorante Sabatini di Firenze, which 

is legendary in Florence, Italy, so you 

know you'll be getting the real deal 

here. Focusing on genuine Italian 

cooking and traditional Tuscan cuisine, 

Il Cardinale serves a superb Bistecca 

alla Fiorentina. The thick slab of T-bone 

steak is roasted at a high temperature 

so it's perfectly charred on the outside 

but still soft and succulent on the 

inside. For a fall treat, they'll be serving 

a special grilled lamb and porcini 

mushroom dish, designed to be enjoyed 

by two people (available from October). 


Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's 

roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share 

this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and 

special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge 

Elana Jade Club 360 

In need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe 

beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from 

head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are 

delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists. 

Special offer: Enjoy our 60-minute Organic Conditioning Facial 

for only ¥10,000 (normal price ¥13,000), valid until October 31. 

Club 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation 

center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports 

massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for 

children. Whilst getting in shape, make sure you recover 

with a sports massage from one of Club 360’s highly qualified therapists. 

Special offer: Mention Tokyo Weekender and receive your 

first personal training session for just ¥5,400. 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE HOTELS ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS | EDITORS CHOICE CHOICE 

www.elanajade.com 

03-6453-9319 

4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku 

www.club360.jp 

03-6434-9667 

B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku 

Owl Café Search 

Japan is famed for its wide 

variety of animal cafés, with 

owl cafés being one of the 

latest to join the lineup. This 

new website provides all the infor- 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

mation you need on where to find 

one of these feathery creatures to pet 

while sipping on a cuppa. Launching 

their English site this month, Owl 

Café Search lets you search by area, 

and includes details such as price, 

opening hours, and contact info for 

each café listed. 

www.owlcafe-search.com 

16 | SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2017 2017 | TOKYO | TOKYO WEEKENDER

HOW THE LIGHT GETS IN 

There are many ways to feed one's soul: this month, we offer an escape to calm Kyushu, 

inspiration from the woman who found her niche as Japan's first foreign geisha, and insight 

into how anime director Keiichi Hara hopes his art will help people face their problems. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

FIND YOUR 

Trip 1: 

FOR CITY FOODIES & ONSEN LOVERS 

Fukuoka and Oita Prefectures 

PERFECT 

KYUSHU 

Four trips, four types – pick your 

favorite or combine them all into 

one big Kyushu adventure 

Words by Annemarie Luck & Matt Schley 

HOW TO GET THERE Flights from Tokyo take 

approximately two hours, while the Tokaido or 

Sanyo Shinkansen can get you from Tokyo to 

Hakata Station in about five hours. 

WHERE TO STAY Urbanites will love the 

modern rooms at First Cabin Hakata. Think of it 

as a luxury capsule hotel, and book the Premium 

Class Cabin for a comfy double bed and wooden 

finishings. www.first-cabin.jp 

FUKUOKA’S NIGHTLIFE AND RAMEN 

Kyushu’s largest city, Fukuoka has skyscraper energy but is friendlier than Tokyo and 

offers escape in the form of green spaces and even beaches. It’s known for nightlife 

and ramen, but it also has plenty for shoppers, art lovers and culture hunters. 

Hipsters should head straight for the Daimyo district, where you’ll find vintage stores 

and streetside cafés. When we visited, we only had eyes for Hakata ramen – which 

is often cited as the best tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen in Japan – so we made a 

beeline for the city’s yatai (street-side food stalls) that come alive at night just next to 

the river in Nakasu. Packed with casual diners every evening, this is the ideal spot to 

chat to locals while slurping up noodles and sipping on sake or shochu. Also try the 

udon, which has its origins in Fukuoka, and motsu nabe if you're feeling adventurous 

(motsu means "innards") . 

DAY 1 

DAY 2 

OITA’S BEPPU ONSEN 

After a night on the town in Hakata, 

best thing for you is a day spent 

dipping in and out of onsen. Oita Prefecture 

is home to Beppu, the famous 

onsen town where the springs are so 

hot that the city itself looks like it’s 

perpetually steaming. There are eight 

onsen areas in the city, but the most 

exciting hot springs are grouped together 

in the Kannawa area under the 

name The 7 Hells of Beppu. These are 

for viewing, not soaking, and include 

the cobalt-blue Umi-jigoku (sea hell) 

and the red clay-colored Chi-no-ikejigoku 

(blood pond hell). To see them 

all, take the Beppu Jigoku Meguri (Hell 

Tour) from Beppu Station (¥3,650, 2.5 

hours). For bathing, visit Takegawara 

Onsen, which opened in 1879 and is 

the oldest onsen in Beppu. Also be 

sure to try a beach sand bath at Beppu 

Kaihin Suna-yu, which is a five-minute 

walk from Beppu Daigaku Station. 

HOW 

TO GET 

THERE 

From Hakata 

to Beppu 

Station, it 

takes approximately 2 hours on JR 

Kyushu’s Limited Express Sonic. 

WHERE TO STAY Balance out 

your Fukuoka capsule confinement 

with a luxurious stay at 

Beppu Sennari Ryokan. 

beppu-sennari.com

DAY 1 

[ PROMOTION ] 

Trip 2: 

FOR FANTASY FANS & NATURE ENTHUSIASTS 

Miyazaki Prefecture 

TAKACHIHO GORGE, AOSHIMA BEACH & UDO SHRINE 

Miyazaki’s nature and spiritual spots bowled us over. To recreate our pilgrimage, make your 

first destination Takachiho, home to shrines related to sun goddess Amaterasu, and Takachiho 

Gorge, a chasm created by the flow of a river through volcanic rock. Either walk a trail 

that runs alongside the gorge or rent a boat and row down it. Next, take a bus to Aoshima. 

No, this isn’t the Aoshima full of cats – that’s the one in Ehime – but this Aoshima features 

a beach, botanic gardens, and a shrine set under a jungle canopy. Swing by Aoshima Beach 

Park (open spring through summer), a hip pop-up eatery collective, but don’t forget the 

mom-and-pop food stands (try the nikumakionigiri, rice balls wrapped in meat). Finally, take 

a bus to Udo Shrine. A 20-minute walk from the closest bus stop, Udo is inside a cave that faces 

the ocean, and will make you feel like you’ve reached the shrine at the end of the world. 

HOW TO GET THERE 

Takachiho is located between 

Oita, Miyazaki and Kumamoto, 

and can be reached via bus 

from each city. Aoshima and 

Udo lie just south of Miyazaki; 

both can be reached on the 

same bus line, which runs 

about once per hour. 

WHERE TO STAY To visit 

all three, make your base 

Miyazaki. If beach-going is 

your main goal, there are 

several hotel and guesthouse 

options right in Aoshima. 

GETTING 

TO AND 

AROUND 

KYUSHU 

The third 

biggest island 

of Japan, 

Kyushu 

has seven 

prefectures. 

Domestic flights from Tokyo’s Narita or 

Haneda airports take about two hours 

to any of Kyushu’s airports, but it’s also 

possible to travel by Shinkansen. Within 

Kyushu, car rental is best if you’re planning 

to explore more remote areas, but 

for the four trips we’ve planned here, 

you’ll be able to get around mainly on 

the Kyushu Shinkansen and local trains. 

In fact, traveling on JR Kyushu 

trains is one of the highlights of visiting 

the island as the company has invested 

heavily in designing unique and luxurious 

trains, making the journey between 

prefectures a real pleasure. Aside from 

hopping on the Shinkansen, you might 

also want to take a look at some of 

the resort trains on offer, such as the 

Yufuin no Mori, which boasts a lounge 

with wooden interior, and the A-TRAIN, 

which features wood and stained glass 

décor. For more information about the 

JR Kyushu Rail Pass, and the different 

trains, visit www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/. 

DAY 2 

KIRISHIMA 

The Kirishima mountain range is an 

important spot in Japanese folklore 

and great for hiking. The range 

includes active volcanoes and is 

said to be where Ninigi-no-Mikoto, 

grandson of goddess Amaterasu, 

descended to earth (though Miyazaki’s 

Takachiho makes the same claim). 

Regardless, Kirishima Shrine, devoted 

to Ninigi-no-Mikoto, is an impressive 

complex (be sure to try the hoko mochi 

cinnamon sweets). From the shrine, 

make your way to the Takachiho-gawara 

Visitor's Center, from where you 

can embark on one of several hikes. 

Kirishima is famous for its crater 

lakes, but volcanic activity means the 

trails are often off-limits, so check in 

with the Visitor's Center first. One of 

the safest bets is the hike to Mount 

Takachiho-no-mine, said to be the spot 

where Ninigi-no-Mikoto descended. 

HOW 

TO GET 

THERE 

Kirishima 

is roughly 

equidistant 

from Kagoshima and Miyazaki. 

From either city, jump on the dark 

grey JR Kyushu's Limited Express 

Kirishima train that looks like it 

was designed by Darth Vader and 

enjoy some incredible scenery. 

WHERE TO STAY Shinyu 

Onsen Ryokan (tel: 099-578-2255) 

for its milky-white, sulfur baths, 

or Kirishima Hotel (www.kirishima-hotel.jp) 

for a Western-style 

facility. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

Trip 3: 

FOR ADVENTURE SEEKERS 

Kagoshima Prefecture 

SAKURAJIMA VOLCANO 

As we stepped off the train at Kagoshima, it took us a moment to realize why there 

was a tinge of smoke in the air – then we remembered our destination, Sakurajima, 

is an active volcano. Erupting (harmlessly) hundreds of times a year, Sakurajima is 

one of Kyushu’s most unique destinations, with volcano-related attractions like a hot 

spring filled with dark, volcanic mineral-infused water. Skeptical? Give it a try at the 

free footbaths, where you can take in a view of the city and volcano across the bay. 

To get closer to said volcano, hop on a local bus (one leaves every hour for the volcano) 

or the Island View Bus – this bus only covers a portion of the island, so travelers 

interested in farther-flung sights, such as a shrine gate almost buried by an eruption 

in 1914, should rent a car or bicycle. Hungry? Thanks to its nutrient-rich volcanic soil, 

Sakurajima boasts record-sized daikon and delicious miniature mikan oranges. 

DAY 1 

HOW TO GET THERE If you’re coming from 

Kirishima (Trip 2), of then our take itinerary), JR Kyushu's then take Limited the 

JR Express Kyushu Kirishima limited express from Kirishima from Kokuba Jingu Station 

to Kagoshima-Chuo Station Station (about (about 30 minutes). 30 minutes). Sakura- 

Sakurajima is a 15-minute is a 15-minute ferry ride ferry from ride Kagoshima from 

city. Kagoshima Those in city. for Cyclists a day of can cycling ride from can ride Kirishima from 

Kirishima – the 70km – course the 70km takes course you by takes an art you museum, by an art a 

museum, kurozu black a kurozu vinegar black factory, vinegar volcano factory, observa- 

volcano 

observation points and points more. and more. 

WHERE TO STAY Ferries run 24/7, so travelers 

can easily stay on mainland Kagoshima – but 

those looking to stay on the island itself should 

check out hotel Rainbow (www.qkamura-s.com/ 

sakurajima), which has a an hot attached spring. hot If you're spring. on 

If a budget, you're on peek a budget, the Sakurajima peek the Sakurajima Youth Hostel. Youth 

DAY 2 

YAKUSHIMA ISLAND 

Studio Ghibli’s 1997 epic Princess Mononoke takes place in a forest so lush and out of this 

world we’d always assumed it came straight from director Hayao Miyazaki’s imagination. 

As it turns out, Mononoke’s forest had a real-life model – the island of Yakushima, south of 

Kagoshima. For fans of that film – or nature enthusiasts in general – Yakushima’s biggest 

draw will be Shiratani Unsuikyo, a relatively easily accessible nature park filled with hiking 

trails and footpaths. Look out for the forest’s yakusugi cedar trees, some of which are literally 

thousands of years old. Aside from its special brand of trees, Yakushima also has yaku 

monkeys and yaku deer, both of which are smaller than their mainland brethren, and can be 

regularly spotted while walking the forests. Said forests aren't Yakushima's only attraction, 

though: the island also features activities like snorkeling, scuba diving and paddleboarding. 

Whatever you do, pack a raincoat: Yakushima is famed for its high levels of precipitation. 

HOW TO GET THERE Getting to Yakushima 

is part of the adventure. The island 

has its own airport, but we recommend 

grabbing the high-speed jetfoil from Kagoshima 

(how often, after all, do you get 

to ride on something called a “jetfoil”?). 

The journey takes between two and three 

hours and costs ¥15,000 for a round-trip. 

WHERE TO STAY Yakushima features 

a number of hotels, guesthouses and 

rentable cottages, many of which are near 

the jetfoil port. Blow all your money just 

getting here? Try out one of the island's 

six mountain huts, which are entirely 

free, as long as you arrive early enough to 

snag a spot. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

DAY 1 

Trip 4: 

FOR HISTORY BUFFS 

Kumamoto, Saga, Nagasaki Prefectures 

KUMAMOTO CASTLE 

Although you’ll be missing out on actually 

seeing its impressive facade, which 

is covered in scaffolding as they rebuild 

after the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, 

now is an enlightening time to visit 

Kumamoto Castle. It’s one of the few 

places in Japan that you can currently 

examine the extensive damage and 

restoration efforts necessary after an 

earthquake hits such a historically 

important structure. Built in 1607, the 

castle is scheduled to reopen to the 

public in early 2019, but the entire 

recovery process is expected to take two 

decades, mainly because consideration 

must be taken to maintain the traditional 

structure – for example, every stone 

that fell from the massive walls during 

the earthquake must be put back into 

its original position. When we visited, 

we were entranced by the watchtower 

alone, which stands tall and proud and 

largely intact. We were also astounded 

by one huge stone on display, which 

was discovered after the earthquake 

and features an ancient stone carving of 

a Bodhisattva figure. 

DAY 2 

SAGA'S YOSHINOGARI HISTORICAL PARK 

There’s plenty to do and see in Saga Prefecture (see page 22), but for some fascinating insight 

into one of Japan’s oldest periods, we recommend visiting Yoshinogari Historical Park 

(www.yoshinogari.jp/en). This archeological site features ancient ruins of a king’s village 

dating back to the Yayoi period (300BCE-300ACE), with reconstructed huts showing how 

people lived and the clothes they wore. Aside from simply trying to imagine what it must 

have been like to live in that era, the most intriguing part of our visit was inspecting the 

excavated burial jars and the various artifacts that were found inside them such as bronze 

swords and glass jewelry. 

HOW TO GET THERE If you 

stayed at Satsuki Besso ryokan 

as recommended for Day 1, then 

take the Kyushu Shinkansen from 

Shin-Tamana Station to Shin-Tosu 

Station (about 25 minutes). 

Change to the JR Nagasaki Line 

and travel for 10 minutes to 

Yoshinogari-Koen Station. 

WHERE TO STAY End your day 

in Saga’s famous Ureshino onsen 

town. We stayed at Warakuen 

(www.warakuen.co.jp/english. 

html), which has a unique "tea 

hot spring." To get here, take the 

JR Kyushu Nagasaki Line from 

Yoshinogari-Koen Station to 

Hizen-Kashima Station, and then 

a short taxi ride. 

NAGASAKI ATOMIC BOMB MUSEUM & GLOVER GARDEN 

The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum is a sobering start to the day, but it’s also thoroughly 

educational and an important reminder of the horror and devastation endured by the city 

and its people. For a completely different side to Nagasaki’s history, hop on the city tram 

to Glover Garden, where you can see the house built by Thomas Blake in 1863. Originally 

from Scotland, Glover contributed to the modernization of Japan through shipbuilding, coal 

mining and the tea trade. Those who’ve recently watched Martin Scorcese’s film Silence 

might be interested in reading about the “hidden Christian sites” in the region, one of 

which, Oura Cathedral, is just down the road from Glover’s home. Also, don’t leave without 

chowing down on Nagasaki’s popular champon noodles. 

DAY 3 

HOW TO GET THERE You can fly 

from Tokyo to Kumamoto in about 

two hours, but if you’re traveling from 

Kagoshima (following on from Trip 3), 

then take the Kyushu Shinkansen from 

Kagoshima-Chuo Station to Kumamoto 

Station (about one hour). 

WHERE TO STAY Since Day 2 of our 

History Buff trip starts with a relatively 

long journey, we’d recommend getting 

part of the train ride under your belt by 

staying at Satsuki Besso ryokan, which is 

about 30 minutes out of the city towards 

Saga Prefecture. Take the Kyushu 

Shinkansen from Kumamoto Station to 

Shin-Tamana Station, and then walk for 

25 minutes or hop in a taxi. 

HOW TO 

GET THERE 

If you’re 

coming from 

Ureshino, take 

JR Kyushu's 

Limited Express Kamome train from 

Hizen-Kashima Station to Nagasaki 

Station, and then navigate your way 

around the city on the adorable 

tramway, founded in 1915. 

WHERE TO STAY Huis Ten Bosch 

theme park is modeled on what 

the Netherlands looked like in the 

Middle Ages. There are four hotels, 

with Henn-na Hotel being the 

world’s first hotel to feature robot 

staff. english.huistenbosch.co.jp 


[ PROMOTION ] 

6 WAYS TO 

ENJOY FALL 

IN SAGA 

If you enjoyed our 

recommended itinerary 

for finding your 

perfect Kyushu, you 

might decide you 

want to extend your 

trip by a few days to 

delve a little deeper 

into what’s on offer. 

If you happen to be 

planning your getaway 

for autumn, 

here are a few more 

things to do and see 

while you’re in Saga 

Prefecture 

DAIKOZEN-JI TEMPLE 

Not only revered for its autumn allure, this mountaintop 

temple in Kiyama was built in the early 800s, giving you 

the chance to view some of Japan’s oldest architecture 

including its reed thatched roof. Situated halfway up Mt. 

Chigiriyama, it’s surrounded by a forest of cedar, gingko, 

and maple trees, which are the leading ladies come 

mid-November. (It’s also become famous for its 50,000- 

odd azalea bushes, which are the main attraction during 

spring and have led to the temple being nicknamed Tsutsuji 

Tera, or Azalea Temple.) You’ll need to brave a long, steep 

stairway to reach the top, but the feeling of being inside 

a picturesque oil painting is worth the effort. 3628 Oaza 

Sonobe, Kiyama-Machi, Miyaki-Gun, Saga. ¥500 entrance fee 

in autumn (November and December). www.daikouzenji.com 

KUNENAN 

There are several reasons to visit this 

former residence of Saga businessman 

Yataro Itami, but the mansion and its expansive 

gardens are probably most wellknown 

for being one of the prefecture’s 

most exclusive momijigari (autumn leaves 

viewing) spots. As such, it’s only open for 

nine days at the peak of the fall foliage 

beauty: from November 15 to 23, 8:30am 

to 4pm. (It also opens for a limited time 

during spring.) The name Kunenan 

means “Nine-year House,” and refers to 

the fact that its garden took nine years 

to build, with construction beginning in 

1900 and supervised by a Zen Buddhist 

priest. The architecture follows the traditional 

tea house style, while the garden 

shows off the art of shakkei – a style of 

gardening that “borrows” scenery from 

nearby landmarks and incorporates them 

into the design. Stroll amongst the azaleas 

and maple trees for an elegant autumn 

afternoon. 1696 Ikuwa, Kanzaki-machi, 

Kanzaki-shi, Saga. ¥300 entrance fee. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

YOU’LL NEED TO BRAVE A STEEP STAIRWAY TO 

REACH THE TOP, BUT THE FEELING OF BEING INSIDE A 

PICTURESQUE OIL PAINTING IS WORTH THE EFFORT 

SAGA BEEF 

Known for being one of the best wagyu beef 

brands in Japan, Saga Beef benefits from the 

prefecture’s mild climate, pure water, and 

clean air. The Japanese Black cows are raised 

using expert breeding techniques, ensuring 

they do not experience any major stress. To 

taste this deliciously sweet and rich marbled 

beef, we recommend Kira, a renowned 

restaurant in central Saga that’s run by Japan 

Agricultural Cooperatives. We stopped by for 

lunch and ordered thin strips of Saga gyu, 

which we cooked ourselves on the iron plate 

grill in the center of the table, served with a 

large bowl of vegetables, salad, miso soup, 

rice, and pickles. Undoubtedly one of the most 

succulent beef dishes we’ve ever tasted. You 

can also order it as steak, or take a seat at the 

teppanyaki counter to watch the chef at work. 

(If you can’t make it all the way to Saga, note 

they also have a branch in Ginza, Tokyo.) 3-9- 

16 Otakara, Saga-shi, Saga. kira.saga-ja.jp/en 

IKIZUKURI SQUID 

Of course Japan in its entirety is famed for having the freshest, most delicious seafood, but if you 

want to experience local cuisine at its source, it’s best to visit a port town and try their speciality. 

In Saga, there’s one such city called Karatsu, which is famed for its port area called Yobuko. Here 

you should order ikizukuri – live squid that’s so live it squirms on your plate. Early risers will 

enjoy visiting the Yobuko Morning Market, where you can opt for dried squid should the live 

version be a tad too much for you. This market dates back to the early 1900s, and is considered 

one of the three biggest fish markets of Japan. 

KARATSU KUNCHI FESTIVAL 

This autumn matsuri is held at Karatsu Shrine 

and is one of Kyushu’s major festivals, dating 

back about 400 years and attracting 500,000 

visitors. What makes this festival particularly 

interesting is its unique hikiyama (giant floats). 

The first in the series of 14 was made by a 

woodcarving craftsman in 1819 and is called 

Akajishi (Red Lion float). The other 13 were all 

produced over the next 60 years, and feature 

awe-inspiring designs – probably the most 

unusual one is The Red Snapper, which literally 

looks like a fish and is meant to represent the 

fish markets from the old days. The floats each 

weigh two to five tons, and measure 4.5 to 6.8 

meters in height. If you can’t make it in time to 

see the floats being hauled along the street, or 

through the sand on Nishinohama Beach, you 

can still see them on display at the Hikiyama 

Exhibition Hall (6-33 Nishi-Jonai, Karatsu-shi, 

Saga). November 2-4, beginning at Karatsu 

Shrine, 3-13 Minami-Jonai, Karatsu-shi, Saga. 

SAGA INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA 

Held annually at the beginning of November, along the Kase River, this international hot air 

balloon competition is the largest of its kind in Asia. Boasting over 800,000 visitors every year, 

the event sees around 100 colorful balloons gathering and taking flight before landing several 

kilometers away from the fiesta grounds. There are competitive flights, which are held twice a 

day; the official balloons, which fly just before the main competition begins; and the Fantasia 

balloons, which are shaped to look like animals and cartoon characters, and are inflated every 

morning although they don’t actually lift off the ground. November 1-5, 2017. www.sibf.jp/en 


A DAY IN 

THE LIFE 

OF A 

GEISHA 

Interview by Bunny Bissoux 

Geisha are some of the most iconic figures of 

traditional Japanese culture and yet remain 

cloaked in a veil of mystery and strict etiquette. 

We spoke with Sayuki, Japan’s first foreign 

geisha, to find out about her daily life and learn 

more about her unique profession 

WHAT IS YOUR TYPICAL 

DAY LIKE? 

Normally, I correspond with customers 

in the morning, practice 

or do classes in the afternoon, 

and do banquets when I have 

bookings in the evening. I am a 

flute specialist and do classes at 

different times of the year for 

flute: in nagauta music from the 

kabuki theatre, hauta and kouta 

– “little songs” that are like haiku 

set to music (and are the most 

common type of geisha music) – 

festival music, lion dance music, 

and minyo folk music. I also take 

lessons in singing and shamisen. 

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE 

THIS JOB? 

I was working previously on 

documentaries for NHK, the BBC, 

National Geographic Channel and 

other broadcasters. While I was 

trying to sell the idea of a behindthe-scenes 

geisha documentary, 

I suggested that I be the geisha 

being trained and filmed over 

a year. After my initial planned 

year was up I had only just 

debuted – and wanted to learn 

so much more – so I asked and 

got permission from the Asakusa 

Geisha Association to continue 

as a geisha. I would still love to 

make my own program, about 

how I am currently helping the 

Photo by Saskia Wesserling 

Fukagawa geisha to revive 

their district. 

HOW DO YOU BECOME 

A GEISHA? 

You train by being accepted into 

a geisha house, most often in a 

recognized geisha district. All 

the training is done by following 

one’s geisha mother around 

in her everyday activities and 

learning by example, and by 


Photo by Saskia Wesserling 

taking lessons in music and/or dance. Once 

the new geisha can perform well enough to 

attend banquets she learns how to entertain 

by watching her older sisters work. How long 

this takes depends on how strict the district 

is. Some Kyoto maiko debut in as little as 

three months, but in conservative Asakusa, I 

did a very long apprenticeship for 11 months. 

As does any trainee who is past her early 

twenties, I debuted directly as a geisha rather 

than as a maiko or hangyoku as they are 

called in Tokyo. 

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT 

ASPECT OF BEING A GEISHA? 

Geisha need to be everything to everyone. A 

banquet with Japanese guests who have been 

commuting to the geisha world for decades 

is different to a banquet for first-time foreign 

tourists, and different again to an expat 

family party with kids. We always need to be 

aware of how we can cater best to our customers 

and make sure they have a wonderful 

time. It takes time to learn 

to be very sensitive and always aware of our 

customers’ needs. In the end, though, if a geisha 

does not love her art, then it doesn’t last. 

WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF THE JOB? 

To be a geisha is to be in a very beautiful 

world, surrounded by beautiful women, and 

beautiful things, and entertaining in beautiful 

places. It is difficult to have a truly beautiful 

WHAT’S THE MOST UNEXPECTED 

PART OF JOB? 

Many people think that a banquet is a very 

stiff formal occasion, but depending on 

what the customers want, banquets can be 

very raucous! The older Fukagawa geisha 

have some great drinking games and 

Japanese really love to get into the swing 

of things. At a recent banquet things got 

so wild that we had to keep covering the 

trainee geisha’s eyes! 

WHY WOULD YOU RECOMMEND 

PEOPLE TRY THE GEISHA 

EXPERIENCE? 

To attend a genuine geisha banquet 

is to see the most beautiful of traditional 

Japanese architecture in the teahouses, 

the most precious artworks, and 

calligraphy and pottery in the interiors 

of the teahouses, the best of Japanese 

kimono in the geisha’s attire, and the 

best of Japanese cuisine and sake, and of 

course, an introduction to Japanese music 

and dance. There is no other single experience 

or occasion in which you can get 

such a completely comprehensive cultural 

experience. 

AT A RECENT BANQUET THINGS GOT SO WILD THAT WE 

HAD TO KEEP COVERING THE TRAINEE GEISHA’S EYES! 

life, but this comes close to it. Now we are 

in the first days of autumn, for my next 

banquet I will choose a single-layered silk 

kimono, with a design predicting the autumn 

soon to come. I have hundreds of kimono 

now, but a geisha can never have enough! 

There is a lot of giving and receiving of kimono 

in the geisha world: the geisha mother 

I had when I was in Asakusa called me out 

just recently to give me another of hers: a 

beautiful dark blue banquet kimono with 

fine gold patterns. 

WHAT KIND OF EVENT WOULD YOU 

RECOMMEND HIRING A GEISHA FOR? 

Every occasion! Apart from the normal banquet, 

geisha have always been hired for celebratory 

occasions of any kind. Geisha appear 

at the openings of new shops, or on the first 

day of the sumo or theatre. In modern times, 

we have danced at Narita Airport for the 

opening of new flights, danced at Frankfurt 

Messe trade show, attended parties at private 

homes, gone out on boats in Tokyo Bay or even 

entertained on the ski slopes in Niseko. Geisha 

can be called anywhere in the world too. 

I very much welcome any ideas to connect 

with new audiences. 

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO CALL A GEISHA, 

AND WHAT ARE SOME OF THE 

OPTIONS? 

It is the ratio of geisha to customers that 

decides the price, so if you want to make 

it cheaper, get some friends together and 

organize a larger group. Our most exciting 

new project for the Fukagawa geisha is our 

Geisha School. We have opened up the lessons 

of the little geisha for the very first time, so 

that anyone can come and watch a dance or 

music lesson by the older geisha. This is a very 

cheap way to meet geisha, and a great way to 

support the geisha world, as all proceeds will 

go directly to the training of the young geisha. 

If you would like to visit a teahouse, just email 

me and let me know how many people you 

are, and what your maximum budget is per 

person, then I can make all the arrangements 

for you. Recently I have been given the use 

of a beautiful 100-year-old house in Kamakura. 

We can arrange private parties there, or 

customers can use the house for the weekend 

with a banquet on a Friday or Saturday. We 

are happy to cater for a range of budgets. 

WHAT OTHER SERVICES DO YOU 

OFFER? 

Apart from banquets, I offer a number of other 

activities including “lunch with Sayuki” (a 

lunch with me to talk about the geisha world), 

geisha shopping (visiting the beautiful little 

shops and craftsmen making the products 

that geisha use), kimono shopping (a complete 

introduction to kimono by visiting the best 

recycled kimono shops), antique market 

shopping (finding genuine samurai armour 

or geisha pillows, antique pottery and ukiyo-e 

paintings, all at rock bottom prices), kabuki 

viewing (offering extra commentary while 

watching kabuki). 

CALL SAYUKI 

You can contact Sayuki directly at 

sayuki.geisha@gmail.com for all enquiries, 

and to call her and her geisha sisters 

to events across Tokyo and beyond. 

Find out more at www.sayuki.net 


Not quite yet, but they are filling 

in a few gaps, from hotel staff to 

Buddhist monks. We take a look 

at some of the positions currently 

held by humanoids in Japan 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

In 1970 Japanese robotics professor Masahiro Mori identified 

the concept of “Bukimi no Tani Gensho,” which became 

known in English as "The Uncanny Valley." His hypothesis 

stated that the anthropomorphism of robots was appealing 

up to the point where they become too human-like, at 

which stage our feelings change to those of revulsion. 

Osaka University professor and roboticist Hiroshi 

Ishiguro's 2015 creation Erica could be cited as an example. 

The incredibly realistic-looking humanoid – which has sat 

through numerous press conferences answering journalists’ 

questions, and can simulate human expressions – has been 

described as the "most beautiful," and "the creepiest," robot 

ever made. 

Whichever side of the fence you sit on, there is no doubt 

that for some people Mori's theory rings true. Another issue 

is the fear that robots could make people redundant in the 

future. According to studies by data analysis firm Nomura 

Research Institute (NRI), around half of the jobs in Japan 

could be done by artificial intelligence within 20 years. 

While that may sound unnerving, in a country with an aging 

population and a shrinking workforce would it really be 

such a terrible thing? 

The government here certainly doesn't think so. In 

2015 the Robot Revolution Initiative Council was set up in 

an effort to take robotics to another level. Since then we've 

seen a growing number of Japanese robots making headlines 

for their contributions to the service industry. In many 

cases companies are using them more as public relations 

tools than anything else, but it's still interesting to see the 

progress that's being made. So what kind of jobs are they 

currently doing? Here's a look at a few of the more intriguing 

ones, some more useful than others. 

HOTEL STAFF 

A couple of months after the Robot Initiative Council was 

launched, Henn-na (Weird) Hotel opened to much fanfare 

in Nagasaki. It is the world's first hotel to be staffed mostly 

by robots. On the reception desk, there are two multilingual 

dinosaurs and a realistic-looking female humanoid with 

eyelashes to greet customers and confirm bookings 

(pictured right). If you are in the luxury wing an 

incredibly slow-moving porter robot will then 

carry your bags to the room while playing mu-

sic. Next to the bed you'll find a cute electronic 

creature called Churi-chan who can change 

the room temperature, turn on the lights and 

arrange a wake-up call, but only in Japanese. 

Other robots in the hotel include a foot-high 

concierge and a mechanical arm that will 

store your luggage. There are some humans 

working there because robots can't make 

beds or take care of security. They also aren't 

good at finding lost keys, so facial recognition 

technology is used instead. Earlier this year a 

second Henn-na Hotel was opened in Maihama, 

Chiba, near Tokyo Disney Resort. 

PAROLEE MENTORS 

While recidivism rates are relatively low in 

Japan, the number of repeat offenders among 

the elderly remains a real cause for concern. 

Many ex-cons are poor and lonely with no 

guarantors to check on them, so some might 

feel they'd be better off back inside where 

they'd be fed and surrounded by people. 

There aren't enough social workers to deter 

them from committing petty crimes, so last 

year the Ministry of Justice turned to Pepper, 

the four-foot robot that can analyze body 

language and read a person's emotions. It was 

placed in a Tokyo halfway house in the hope 

that former criminals would share things 

with the humanoid that they wouldn't with 

humans. It's more cost-effective than employing 

regular staff and robots can do 24-hour 

shifts without breaks. The problem is that the 

parolees are unlikely to ever fully develop an 

emotional attachment with the robot. 

CARE WORKERS AND COMPANIONS 

FOR THE ELDERLY 

Japan is experiencing population aging at a 

globally unprecedented pace. Around 26 percent 

of the nation's citizens are 65 or above, 

which is by far the highest proportion in the 

world, and by 2025 it's estimated that the 

country will face a shortage of around 380,000 

caregivers. An influx of foreign workers could 

help, but it's still unlikely to be enough. Carebots 

are, therefore, seen as a logical solution. 

They can provide physical therapy, assist with 

bathing, lifting and mobility, and monitor the 

whereabouts of the elderly through sensors. 

Communication is another particularly 

useful tool. Earlier this year a nursing home 

in Natori, Miyagi Prefecture began using a 

toddler-sized humanoid known as Telenoid 

that can capture the voice and movements of 

a loved one thousands of miles away using a 

microphone and camera. It then replicates 

those actions for the person in possession of 

the robot. Staff at the facility have noticed 

that elderly people, especially those with 

dementia, have become more positive and 

active when communicating with Telenoid. 

BUDDHIST MONKS 

Funerals in Japan certainly don't come 

cheap. There are all kinds of charges to 

factor in, including the price of a Buddhist 

priest whose services will usually 

cost around ¥240,000. Earlier this year 

plastic mold-making company Nissei Eco 

Ltd. attempted to create a much cheaper 

alternative by charging around ¥50,000 for 

Softbank's robot Pepper, which they programmed 

to chant sutras from four Buddhist 

sects in a computerized voice while tapping 

on a drum. It is reminiscent of the German 

robot BlessU-2, which can deliver blessings 

in five different languages and beams light 

from its hands. However, while BlessU-2 was 

designed to trigger debate about the future 

of the church and the potential of artificial 

intelligence, Pepper Priests have been introduced 

more as a matter of necessity. The 

traditional danka system, in which parishioners 

support temples through donations, is 

not as stable as it once was, so many monks 

are looking for part-time work away from 

their usual duties. Pepper is seen as a viable 

substitute while they are away, though many 

have questioned whether a robot can properly 

fulfil religious duties. 

THE ACTROID 

From Maria in Fritz Lang’s 1928 expressionist 

science-fiction drama Metropolis to 

C-3PO in Star Wars, robots have performed 

prominent roles in movies for decades. Yet, 

up to 2015 they have always either been 

played by humans or brought to life with 

motion capture technology. Things changed 

two years ago when Geminoid F co-starred 

in Koji Fukada’s flick Sayonara as Leona 

(pictured top right), becoming the first actor 

humanoid (called an “actroid”) to appear in 

a feature-length film. Equipped with motorized 

actuators enabling it to copy human expressions, 

the wheelchair-bound Leona stays 

loyal to its owner Tania, played by American 

actress Bryerly Long, following a lethal 

nuclear power plant meltdown in Japan. The 

robot is controlled by a computer owned 

by creator Hiroshi Ishiguro. The story was 

adapted from a play by Oriza Hirata, which 

also starred Geminoid F and Long. Other 

robots to have made a splash in the entertainment 

industry include Otonaroid (resembling 

a woman) and Kodomoroid (resembling a 

child), the world's first android newscasters, 

and DMM's Premaid AI robots that dance on 

table-tops like J-Pop stars. 

FOOT SNIFFERS 

Okay, so it's not what you would call a typical 

job, but Japan's latest innovative robot 

deserves a mention. Hana-chan, a play on 

the Japanese word for nose, is a cute robot 

dog equipped with an odor detection sensor 

for a nose. If your feet don't smell then 

Hana will wag its tail; it will bark if they are 

slightly malodorous; and if things are really 

bad it will keel over. The dog was created by 

manufacturers Next Technology, who were 

responding to a request from a man desperate 

to know if he had a smelly problem. Other 

scent-related tech that has recently gone on 

the market includes Panasonic's deodorizing 

coat hangers, which automatically eliminate 

odors and pollen from clothing, and a clip-on 

armpit fan devised by gadget maker Thanko. 


Words by Alec Jordan 

On the eve of his first ever major retrospective of his work at this month’s 

Tokyo International Film Festival, anime director Keiichi Hara talks about why 

he decided to set out on his own as a filmmaker 

After graduating 

from Tokyo 

Designer Gakuin 

College, director 

Keiichi Hara was 

taking a tour of the animation 

studio Tokyo Movie, when he 

decided to take his fate – and his 

future employment – into his 

own hands. He left the tour and 

found Kyosuke Miyoshi, who 

had directed some of the famous 

Lupin the Third anime series, and 

begged him for a job. Apparently 

impressed with the young man’s 

ardor, the artistic director asked 

for Hara to come back after a 

week or so with a script and a 

storyboard for an episode of the 

show. His creative abilities proved 

a match for his initiative, and Miyoshi 

got him a job at a company 

that made commercials. 

To say that he’s come a 

long way since then would be 

something of an understatement. 

After more than 20 years working 

as a director for commercially 

successful and critically acclaimed 

projects such as movies in the 

Doraemon and Crayon Shin-chan 

series, Hara decided to launch 

his career as an independent 

filmmaker, and has been able to 

combine the singular vision of an auteur with the ability to bring audiences 

into the theaters. 

His first film as an independent director was Summer Days with 

Coo, a film that depicts the adventures of an elementary school boy 

who befriends a kappa, a supernatural water spirit. This was followed 

by Colorful, an adaptation of a novel that retells the aftermath of a 

junior high school boy’s suicide attempt. Hara turned his hand towards 

live action film with Dawn of a Filmmaker: The Keisuke Kinoshita Story, 

a biopic about the legendary film director Keisuke Kinoshita. (Hara 

may have recognized something of a kindred spirit in Kinoshita, who 

ran away from home when he was in high school in his first bid at a 

career in cinema.) Finally, he took on the subject of Edo period painters 

and printmakers in Miss Hokusai, which was adapted from the manga, 

Colorful, ©2010 ETO MORI / FUJI TELEVISION 

NETWORK, SUNRISE, DENTSU, Aniplex, Sony Music 

Entertainment (Japan), TOHO All Rights Reserved. 

Sarusuberi. This movie 

focuses on O-Ei, one 

of the daughters of the 

great Edo period artist, 

Hokusai, a young woman 

whose talent and temper rivals that of her father. 

Hara’s independent movies have drawn attention both in Japan 

and overseas: Summer Days with Coo won the Grand Prize for Animation 

at the 11th Japan Media Arts Festival and the Best Animation Film 

award at the Mainichi Film Awards; Colorful took home the Excellent 

Animation of the Year award at the Japan Academy Awards, the Best 

Animation Film award at the Mainichi Film Awards, and the Audience 

and Special Distinction prizes at the Annecy International Animated 

Film Festival; and Miss Hokusai won the Jury Award at Annecy, as well 


as the Best Animation Film Award at the 70th 

Mainichi Film Awards. This year, in recognition 

of the director’s body of work, the Tokyo 

International Film Festival, which kicks off 

on October 25, has dedicated its animation 

section to his creative output. 

Weekender recently dropped by Hara’s 

studio in Nakano to talk with him about… 

THE CHALLENGE OF BRINGING 

COLORFUL TO LIFE: 

With Colorful, it was a client who asked me 

to make that film. I didn't know the original 

novel, but when I read it, at first I didn't think 

Miss Hokusai, ©2014-2015 Hinako 

Sugiura MS.HS / Sarusuberi Film Partners 

Mami the Psychic: Dancing Dolls in a Starry Sky, ©Fujikopro, 

Shogakukan, TV-Asahi, Shin-ei, and ADK 1988 

nese people feel that aspect of things strongly; 

even though we are a developed country, we 

still believe in connections with dead people, 

and gods dwelling in nature. So I want to honor 

that part of Japanese people's hearts, and 

continue to reflect that in my films to come. 

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE SUPER- 

NATURAL IN HIS FILMS: 

I haven't experienced anything like that 

myself, but I feel like there is some kind of 

supernatural influence in our world, in the 

form of certain phenomenon, or in the case 

of things like fate or destiny. I think Japathat 

it was great material for an anime. But 

the producer was intent on making it into 

an anime, and requested that I do it. I took 

it up as a challenge to turn the story into an 

animated film. 

THE SERIOUS TOPICS LYING AT 

THE HEART OF A FILM DIRECTED AT 

JUNIOR HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS: 

[This film] tells the story of a junior high 

school student who commits suicide, one 

whose mother is having an affair, and 

another who is prostituting herself to buy 

the things she wants. These are heavy topics. 

These things are really happening now in 

Japan. I didn't want people to look away 

from these problems, but face them head on. 

There are young people who are struggling 

with those problems, so I made this film for 

those people. 

WHAT DREW HIM TO THE STORY 

BEHIND MISS HOKUSAI: 

I really loved Hinako Sugiura's manga, and I 

knew that I wanted to make an anime from 

her work at some time. So when I had the 

opportunity to collaborate with Production 

I.G, I was very happy to be able to bring this 

piece to life. It was really like a dream come 

true. 

THE UNIQUE APPEARANCE OF MISS 

HOKUSAI’S LEADING LADY: 

In the original story, O-Ei is not a beautiful 

I DIDN'T WANT PEOPLE 

TO LOOK AWAY FROM 

THESE PROBLEMS, BUT 

FACE THEM HEAD ON 

woman, and from the historical records that 

remain, it was very certain that O-Ei was 

not a beautiful woman. But because she is 

the protagonist, I thought it was a good idea 

to make her beautiful, but not completely 

gorgeous. So I made her attractive, but I 

made her eyebrows very thick and gave her 

other striking features. She’s pretty, but she 

has a unique appearance that will make an 

impression on the audience. 

Dawn of a Filmmaker: The Keisuke Kinoshita Story, 

©2013 "Dawn of a Filmmaker" Partners 

WHY HE DECIDED TO GO IT ALONE 

AFTER DECADES OF SUCCESS: 

I had a long part of my career directing as an 

employee, and during that time, I wasn't making 

films for myself, but doing what I was being 

told by the company. Within those limitations, 

I tried to maximize my freedom. Finally, 

I felt like I had achieved a certain measure of 

success, but I was aware of the limitations. So 

I decided to launch myself on my own. However, 

not many people get to spend most of their 

career making only movies! I have been able 

to make only films up until now, so I feel very 

lucky to be able to do this work. I also think 

that it's not easy to keep making only movies, 

but if possible, I want to keep making them for 

the rest of my career. 

THE 30TH TOKYO 

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 

PUTS A SPOTLIGHT ON THE 

WORLD OF KEIICHI HARA 

This year marks the fourth year since 

the Tokyo International Film Festival 

revived its Special Focus on Japanese 

Animation, and 2017 also marks the 

100th anniversary of the institution of 

Japanese animation itself. In honor of 

this historic occasion, TIFF is focusing 

on the work and worlds of Keiichi 

Hara. This is the first ever major 

retrospective of the director’s work, 

and will feature movies in the Shinchan 

series as well as his more recent 

independent films. 

TIFF will take place between October 

25 and November 3, 2017. Full details 

about screenings are available at 

2017.tiff-jp.net

The Future 

of Japanese 

Football 

Meet the man who believes he can transform the game 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

It's been almost a quarter of a century 

since the launch of the J-league and 

though not as glamorous as it once was, 

it's arguably in a better place now than it 

has ever has been. Like the current Chinese 

Super League, the early initiative was to 

bring in an array of high-profile players such 

as Zico, Gary Lineker, and Hristo Stoichkov 

to entice large crowds. For a brief time, it 

worked, but in a struggling economy it was 

unsustainable and the novelty began to wear 

off in the mid-Nineties. 

With the big names departing, attendances 

plummeting and clubs’ sponsors pulling 

the plug on their investments, the League 

decided to change its approach. The focus 

switched from the superstar individuals and 

became more about the teams, who were 

encouraged to build close ties with their local 

communities. 

It was all part of the 100 Year Vision project 

that was announced towards the end of 

the 20th century aimed at making 100 professional 

teams by 2092. At the time, many saw 

it as overly ambitious; however, with 54 sides 

currently spread out over three divisions, 

the plan looks like it could come to fruition 

sooner than expected. 

When viewing the League from a domestic 

perspective, there's a lot to be positive 

about. Attendances have been steadily 

increasing (the J1 average this season is, at 

the time of writing 1,000 higher than the last 

campaign), title races are often unpredictable, 

and exciting young players are emerging 

all the time. Japanese football is popular in 

certain Asian countries and does have something 

of a cult following elsewhere, but could 

it be doing more to attract greater interest 

from the rest of the world? 

Takehiko Nakamura certainly thinks 

so. The New York-based president, CEO and 

founder of sports management consulting 

firm Blue United Corporation has a wealth 

of experience in the game, having worked in 

management roles for Major League Soccer 

in the US and FC Barcelona. The man chiefly 

responsible for bringing former Italian World 


Cup-winning striker Alessandro Del Piero to 

Japan for a charity match to raise funds for 

those affected by the 2011 earthquake, he 

has spent his most of his career attempting 

to import foreign football to Japan. Now his 

main goal is to export the Japanese game to 

the world. 

"In terms of what's happening on 

the pitch, great strides are being made 

in Japanese football," Nakamura tells us. 

"You see [Gaku] Shibasaki settling in Spain, 

[Shinji] Kagawa regularly playing Champions 

League football, multiple players in the 

Bundesliga: there are plenty of good things 

happening. I just feel that the business side 

needs to catch up. 

"Of course, the funds aren't there to be 

able to compete with European leagues, 

yet the J-League could be more creative in 

terms of promoting its product globally. 

Everything is run pretty well and things are 

stable, but you see the press releases only in 

Japanese, and I sometimes wonder if there is 

any desire at all to have a presence outside 

the country. I spoke to some clubs and had 

casual conversations with the league about 

the possibility of an international office, 

but they didn't move. Fortunately, Kashima 

Antlers did." 

The most successful professional club in 

Japanese history and current J-League champions, 

Kashima, in cooperation with Blue 

United Corporation, became the country’s 

first team to set up an office overseas when 

they opened in New York earlier this year. 

International interest in the Ibaraki-based 

side has risen over the past few months after 

reaching the 2016 FIFA Club World Cup final 

and then taking the mighty Real Madrid to 

extra time. They’re now looking to build 

on that success by making a splash beyond 

these shores. 

"Kashima are a club with an understanding 

of what it means to go global," says 

Nakamura. "They're one of three sides in the 

country with an English-language Twitter 

account and have staff in their office who've 

worked abroad. They've stepped into the digital 

age and are prepared to learn from the 

marketing strategies of clubs in other countries. 

Added to all that, their profile was at 

THE REALITY HIT HOME ONE DAY WHEN HE WAS 

CRUSHED AGAINST A WINDOW ON A CROWDED TRAIN 

AND SAW A NEWSPAPER FEATURING ICHIRO SUZUKI 

AND HIDETOSHI NAKATA 

an all-time high because of the performance 

against Madrid, so the timing was perfect." 

It was a fantastic opportunity for Blue 

United as well, who are helping Kashima 

with their digital planning and selling sponsorship 

for them outside of Japan. They’re 

also working with various footballers, eSports 

players and four other J-League teams on 

a variety of projects including scouting in 

the US and arranging youth competitions. 

Right now, the business is purely focused on 

consulting, but in the near future Nakamura 

wants the organization to be more than 

just a middle man and to own something 

concrete. Reviving an international club 

tournament involving Asian, North American 

and Oceanic teams is his immediate 

goal. He came up with the idea during his 

university days and the concept became a 

reality in 2008. The inaugural competition 

of the Pan Pacific Championship, as it was 

known, featured LA Galaxy and their star 

performer, David Beckham. 

“That was quite a boost in terms of 

promotion,” Nakamura says with a smile. 

“Seeing the crowds and media coverage 

it attracted was very exciting for me as it 

was basically just an idea I'd written about 

for my master's thesis three years earlier. 

I felt that it would give Japanese players, 

who only played domestically, a chance to 

test themselves against footballers from 

outside of Asia. Hawaii seemed like the best 

destination to host it as it's situated between 

the different continents. Locals there rarely 

got to see big football tournaments so that 

was a plus point and of course, the fantastic 

weather was another factor. It did well, but 

was moved to Los Angeles a year later. 

"The tournament returned to Hawaii 

in 2012 and we want to bring it back there 

again this coming February. Another of 

our objectives is to launch a soccer school 

in New York. I think owning what I call 

'properties' gives a company more of an 

established feel and that can help us when 

negotiating with prospective clients. Ultimately 

our goal is to make a big impression 

internationally.” 

A man with lofty ambitions, Nakamura 

believes he can help to transform the 

game in Japan. He started out working as a 

businessman for NEC, yet while the job was 

stable, meetings about optical fiber cables 

didn't particularly captivate him. The reality 

hit home one day when he was crushed 

against a window on a crowded train and 

saw a newspaper featuring baseball star 

Ichiro Suzuki and leading Asian footballer 

Hidetoshi Nakata. The latter was just 24, yet 

had already achieved so much doing something 

he loved, while Nakamura, who was 

the same age, had simply been surviving in 

an industry he cared little for. 

The likelihood of making it as an athlete 

had passed, but Nakamura could at least 

pursue his passion of football through 

business. In 2004, he decided to move to the 

States, where he also grew up, to do a master’s 

in Sports Management at the University 

of Massachusetts Amherst. After graduating 

he worked as an intern for the MLS before 

persuading Arsenal’s current chief executive, 

Ivan Gazidis, and the general manager 

of Chicago Fire, Nelson Rodriguez, to give 

him a full-time job there. Over a decade on 

and Nakamura has now established himself 

as a key figure in both US and Japanese 

football. He believes it’s important that they 

keep learning from each other as there are 

many similarities between the leagues in the 

two countries. 

“Both the North American Soccer League 

(1968-84) and the J-League ran into trouble 

because they invested everything in big 

names and hoped that would be enough,” 

says Nakamura. “A coffee shop isn’t going 

thrive just because it has the best beans. You 

need to first lay the foundations. I think now 

when you look at football in America and Japan 

you can see that many clubs have done 

that. They both have fairly strong domestic 

divisions; however, Japan has room to grow 

in terms of its global strategy. That’s something 

that we at Blue United are determined 

to help improve.” 

To find out more about Blue United, visit 

www.blueutd.com/en. 


Dream 

Powder 

Words by Alec Jordan 

Born out of a “crazy ambition,” new company Material 

Matcha Uji is looking to breathe life into the country’s matcha 

industry, and take the high quality tea beyond Japan’s shores 

Creating high quality matcha 

(powdered green tea) is no easy 

task. It demands an encyclopedic 

knowledge of the land where the 

tea is grown, an understanding of 

the wide variety of tea plants and their individual 

characteristics, and a deep sense of the 

tradition of tea making itself, all coupled with 

the fine nose and palate of a true connoisseur. 

They’re not the qualities that you’d expect 

to find in a former trader in the derivatives 

market and an expert in machine translation 

and speech recognition algorithms, but 

Morgan Josset and Etienne Denoual are full of 

surprises. The two Frenchmen have recently 

launched the company Material Matcha Uji 

宇治 (MMU for short), 

and have dedicated 

themselves to bringing 

a new level of 

matcha to customers 

overseas. 

Between 

the two of them, 

Josset and Denoual 

have some 25 years 

of experience in 

Japan. But as Josset 

explained, they’d 

spent almost all of 

it in the corporate 

world, and after 

a shared period 

of soul searching, 

they knew that they 

wanted to do something 

concrete, something tangible. 

They just weren’t quite sure what that 

something was until they visited a friend in 

Uji, a famed tea growing region just outside 

of Kyoto, who took them to the oldest tea 

house in the world, had them drink a superb 

matcha, and explained to them that the 

tradition behind the beverage that they had 

just enjoyed was in danger. 

High quality matcha usually doesn’t 

make it out of Japan, their friend explained, 

and the plants that are used to make it are 

rapidly being replaced by high-intensity, 

low-quality agricultural products. Furthermore, 

the average age of a Japanese tea 

farmer is about 65, and many of them are 

finding it increasingly difficult to find someone 

who is willing to follow in their footsteps. 

And it’s not easy work. The tea plants 

need to be shaded during part of the growing 

period in order to ensure that they are of 

the fullest flavor, and the exact timing of this 

process is the sort of thing that can only be 

learned from years of experience. For the finest 

flavored tea, only the first flush, or harvest 

of leaves are used. Many farmers are forced 

to base their entire year’s earnings – and their 

financial stability – on the harvest that they 

bring to market, usually in May. 

All of a sudden, Josset and Denoual’s 

purpose became clear: they would help in 

their own small way to breathe life into the 

matcha industry and bring high quality tea 

to customers outside of Japan. Throwing 

themselves into their quest, they would spend 

time with tea farmers learning about what it 

takes to bring a harvest together, refine their 

understanding of tea while spending time 

with master matcha blenders, and come to a 

deeper understanding of both the tea ceremony 

and Japanese business practices. 

As the first result of their labors, they 

have created three varieties of matcha, each 

with a unique flavor profile: MMU01, MMU02, 

and MMU03, all of which are on sale on the 

company’s website. But their project doesn’t 

just end with the creation of a product. 

They’ve launched a Kickstarter project to secure 

a year’s worth of tea leaf harvest, which 

will not only allow MMU to create a large 

amount of matcha, but assure the tea farmers’ 

peace of mind, allowing them to focus on 

what they do best: growing high quality tea. 

Josset explains, the project is a product of 

crazy ambition, but launching the new business 

has pushed the two of them to reach new 

heights that they wouldn’t have imagined 

before: “With a lot of passion, will and work, 

you get to surpass yourself and do things that 

you thought were impossible. You have to 

listen to your dreams and believe in yourself.” 

To find out more about Material Matcha Uji 

宇治 , go to materialmatcha.com. 


Yayoi Kusama, Flowering New York, 2005, silk screen on canvas, ©Yayoi Kusama 

DOTTY FOR YAYOI KUSAMA 

Probably the most exciting news in art circles this month is the launch of the Yayoi 

Kusama Museum: be prepared to immerse yourself in dots. 

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DECEMBER OCTOBER | MARCH 2017 2016 | | 33

ART & THEATER 

“CREATION IS A SOLITARY PURSUIT, LOVE IS WHAT BRINGS YOU CLOSER TO ART” 

Fans of the work of Yayoi Kusama, rejoice: a museum dedicated to the artist’s work opened this month. Along with a store 

selling articles that feature Kusama’s well known polka dots and other visual hallmarks and a floor dedicated to large-scale 

installation pieces, the inaugural exhibition at the Yayoi Kusama Museum will highlight the artist’s latest series of paintings, 

“My Eternal Soul.” However, fans be warned: due to the museum’s popularity, tickets are sold two months in advance, and 

they sell out very quickly. Yayoi Kusama Museum Until February 25, 2018 yayoikusamamuseum.jp 

Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkins Screaming about Love Beyond Infinity, 2017, mixed media, variable size, ©Yayoi Kusama 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan 

Metalwork, Kengo Takahashi, origin as a human, 2015 

AMAZING CRAFTSMANSHIP! 

– FROM MEIJI KOGEI TO 

CONTEMPORARY ART 

When it comes to craftsmanship, Japan 

exists on a plane of its own. Over the 

centuries, artisans who work with metal, 

wood, ceramics, and other materials have 

collectively refined their techniques and 

redefined the boundaries of the possible. 

This exhibition looks at the fine line 

between craft and fine art, with colorful 

examples of Meiji period objects drawn 

from a variety of different disciplines and 

meticulously crafted pieces of modern art 

that are made with a skill and an attention 

to detail that would have made artisans 

of generations proud. Mitsui Memorial 

Museum Until December 3 

www.mitsui-museum.jp/english/english.html 


German Von Bohn, The Death of Cleopatra, 1841, oil painting, Musee des 

Beaux-Arts, Nantes, France ©RMN-Grand Palais / Gérard Blot / distributed 

by AMF 

Portrait of Tadao Ando (Photo: Nobuyoshi Araki) 

FEAR IN PAINTING 

An exhibition that’s timed nicely for the spookiest time of year, this collection of 

paintings is inspired by a best-selling book, Kowai-e (Scary Paintings), which was 

penned by the art historian Kyoko Nakano. By and large, it’s a collection of modern 

European paintings and prints, which are arranged in thematic groupings such as 

myth, reality, and history. In some cases, the imagery of the works is enough to give 

you the shivers, while other pieces require a bit of a back story to send a chill up 

your spine. The Ueno Royal Museum Until December 17 www.kowaie.com 

T 

THEATER 

Held yearly, Festival/Tokyo is Japan’s 

leading performing arts festival 

and runs until November 12. The 

event hosts everything from outdoor 

performances to in-depth plays that 

probe pressing social issues. Here are 

three performances from the event that 

theater fans shouldn’t miss. 

CABARET 

CRUSADES 

Don’t let the 

fact that this is 

a puppet show 

fool you: this 

work uses the 

subject of the 

European military campaigns into the Holy Land 

centuries ago as a vehicle for understanding the 

tensions that are currently playing out in the Arab 

world today. Features a cast of traditional Arabic 

puppets, marionettes, and glass-blown models. 

GORILLA: 

WHAT IS 

HUMAN? 

Conceived by 

the theater 

group FAIFAI, 

this performance 

is filled 

with equal doses of humor and social consciousness. 

This work takes place at Ikebukuro Nishiguchi 

Park, and the star of the show is a man dressed 

in a gorilla suit, who is dancing to live music. 

Despite the seemingly silly setup, there’s more to 

the show than meets the eye, and must be seen to 

be understood. 

TADAO ANDO: ENDEAVORS 

Self-taught architect and former boxer Tadao Ando is a legend in the world of architecture, 

and his projects can be found around the world. Part of the 10th anniversary 

celebrations of The National Art Center, Tokyo, this exhibition gives visitors the 

opportunity to experience the imaginative power of this architectural heavyweight 

by looking at his early residential projects, his use of light and fascination with “void 

spaces,” some of his most ambitious creations, and many other facets of his work. 

Also on display will be a full-scale replica of Ando’s celebrated Church of the Light in 

Osaka. The National Art Center, Tokyo Until December 18 www.tadao-ando.com/ 

exhibition2017 

IN OUR 

DISTANCE, 

THERE IS 

NO SOR- 

ROW 

This work is actually 

two plays 

in one, which are performed simultaneously in 

adjacent theaters. Taking the events of 3/11 as 

a basis, the linked plays are a meditation on the 

mental divides brought about by distance. A special 

ticket is available that allows two people to 

see both plays at the same time, or one person 

to see the two plays at separate times. 

More information at www.festival-tokyo.jp/en 

Photo Credits: Cabaret Crusades, ©Wael Shawky; Courtesy 

the Artist and Lisson Gallery. Gorilla: What is Human? Photo: 

Kazuya Kato. In our distance, there is no sorrow, Photo: 

Hideaki Hamada, Ivy Chen 


1 

3 

2 

4 

7 

8 

5 6 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN OCTOBER 

1 

OCT 28-29 

2 

OCT 8 

3 

OCT 21-22 

4 

OCT 26-31 

KAWASAKI HALLOWEEN 

PARADE 

One of Japan's most famous 

Halloween events with amazing 

costumes now features a 

Halloween Pride Parade. 

Where: Kawasaki Station 

How much: Free 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

TAISHO JIDAI MATSURI 

Travel back in time to early 20th 

century Japan in this festival of 

costumes and nostalgic festival 

games. 

Where: Around Yono Station 



TOKYO GRAND TEA 

CEREMONY 2017 

A variety of events, including 

tea ceremonies in English and 

traditional performances, will 

take place during the weekend's 

festivities. 

Where: Hamarikyu Gardens 

How much: ¥700 


TOKYO RAMEN SHOW 

Ramen shops from all over the 

country tout their wares. You'll find 

regional rarities as well as wellknown 

favorites here. 

Where: Komazawa Olympic Park 

How much: ¥850 

More info: www.ramenshow.com 

OCT 1-31 

SEA PARA HALLOWEEN 

Amusement park-meets-aquarium 

Sea Para pulls out all the stops with 

Halloween decorations, events, 

fireworks, and food. 

Where: Sea Paradise Hakkejima 

How much: ¥2,500-5,050 

More info: www.seaparadise.co.jp 

6 OCT 11-13 

OESHIKI FESTIVAL 

A festival of 10,000 lanterns 

commemorating the Nichiren 

Buddhist sect founder lights up the 

night at this famous temple. 

Where: Ikegami Honmonji 



5 7 

OCT 27-31 

KANDA USED BOOK 

FESTIVAL 

Secondhand bookstores create 

a corridor of bookshelves on the 

sidewalk for this unique book 

lovers' event. 

Where: Jimbocho area 


More info: jimbou.info 

8 OCT 28-31 

THE NUTCRACKER AND 

THE MOUSE KING 

The classic fairytale ballet loved by 

audiences all over the world tells 

the fantastical story of a girl and her 

nutcracker toy. 

Where: New National Theatre, Tokyo 

How much: ¥3,240-¥12,960 

More info: nntt.jac.go.jp/english 



[ PROMOTION ] 

Six new cities, towns, and 

villages from around Japan 

take over the Tabisuru 

Shintora Market 

As the seasons change, so do the 

stands at Tokyo’s Tabisuru Shintora 

Market, an ongoing event 

just outside Toranomon Hills 

that promotes local regions 

from across Japan. This time, inspired by 

the theme "Craftsmanship nurtured by 

nature and gentle breezes," six regions 

showcase their specialties. Komono and 

Suzuka in Mie, Hioki in Kagoshima, and 

Awashimaura, Yahiko, and Izumozaki in 

Niigata will host the four stands. Each area 

is known for their abundance of natural 

resources and the crafts and foods that 

make the most of them. Here are our top 

recommendations of what to do at the 

market…. 

travelers for over 1,300 years thanks to its 

onsen, clean water, clear air and great food. 

It is also home to Komono Banko ware, a 

type of pottery favored among tea ceremony 

practitioners for its elegant simplicity 

and light weight. 

SHOP FOR HANDMADE CRAFTS 

From Japan's southernmost main island 

to the icy winds of the west coast, the new 

tenants of the Tabisuru Shintora Market 

stands are a varied bunch: 

Stand 1 is home to Komono, located in 

Mie Prefecture. It has been popular with 


[ PROMOTION ] 

Stand 2 houses Hioki, a city on the west 

coast of Kagoshima, known as the birthplace 

of Satsuma pottery. Brought over from 

the Korean peninsula over 400 years ago, this 

craft is part of an industry known worldwide. 

Many craftsmen still use over 400-year-old 

kilns to fire their kama-style ceramics. 

Stand 3 belongs to Suzuka city, which has 

a long history of craftsmanship. Suzuka 

Sumi ink sticks are made from pine tree 

soot and oils and were first produced in the 

Heian period (710-784). These ink sticks are 

sought after by calligraphy artists nationwide. 

Today, only two artisans have inherited this 

traditional craft. Suzuka is also known for its 

Ise Katagami Stencil paper, which has over 

1,000 years of history behind it. The stencil 

is used to create designs for kimono dyeing. 

Planned patterns are painstakingly carved out 

of the paper, which requires the utmost skill 

and patience. 

Sharing Stand 4 are Awashimaura, Yahiko, 

and Izumozaki – all of which are in Niigata 

Prefecture. Awashimaura is a green and lush 

island, rich in natural resources despite its 

small size. Yahiko is home to Yahiko Shrine, 

a centuries-old pilgrimage destination and 

home to ancient Echigo (old Niigata) culture. 

Japan's largest chrysanthemum festival is held 

here every year in November. Izumozaki is 

as known for its fishing as it’s known for its 

waxed paper balloon making. The city boasts 

100 years in the paper balloon business and 

is the number one paper balloon purveyor in 

Japan. Together, these three areas represent 

Niigata's finest features of sea, mountains, 

and abundant greenery. 

SIP RARE SAKE 

As the evening breeze begins to cool, a sip of 

something stronger can help keep you warm. 

Find hard-to-get sake and shochu at the market 

stands from the various regions. Komono's 

Hayakawa Shuzo gives visitors a choice of 

three different Tabika sake so they can taste 

the difference between sake types within the 

same company. As Hioki is in shochu country, 

offers bargain sips of imo (sweet potato) 

shochu instead of sake. Seikai no Kaori has a 

rich and sweet flavor, while Haraguchi Shuzo 

offers a round, rich mouthfeel with earthy 

tones. Both come at an affordable ¥300 a 

glass. Suzuka's Zaku Ho no Tomo sake has 

received international recognition for its mellow 

and slightly sweet, but balanced flavor. 

Niigata touts its Koshi no Hakusetsu from 

Yahiko Shuzo, which is has a clear sharpness 

to it and is the brewery's standard. For those 

interested in purchasing sake by the bottle, 

the Tabisuru Store has a wide range of sake 

for all tastes. 

TASTE REGIONAL, SEASONAL NABE 

Just as every season has its own charm, 

every region has its own take on autumnal 

delicacies. As temperatures cool, the hotpots 

come out and, here, each region uses its own 

distinctive ingredients and cooking methods. 

Komono's souhei motsu nabe (literally priest 

soldier offal hot pot), contains a variety of 

local specialty meats and serves two to three 

people. Kagoshima prides itself on its black 

pork, chicken, and seafood – and Hinoki's 

barley miso nabe makes the most of these, 

creating a bowl of umami deliciousness. 

Suzuka's delightful take on shabu shabu 

features sakura pork and a delicious tea soup 

base (serves two to three people). For those 

wanting something a little bit heartier, the 

Niigata trio have come up with an omusubi 

lunchbox coupled with miso soup. Omusubi 

is another word for rice ball, but the verb 

musubu means to tie together or unite – 

which is what the dish does for these 

Niigata towns. 

WEAR SAMURAI ARMOR AT THE 

POP-UP MARKET 

In mid-October, there will be a special twoday 

event featuring fresh vegetables, crafts, 

and workshops. Visitors can wear samurai 

armor from Kagoshima, try their hand at 

making their own Ise katagami stencil paper, 

and write with Suzuka Sumi ink. It will be a 

rare chance to buy crafts from each of the regions, 

as well as sample vegetables and local 

dishes. This is a unique chance to get a true, 

in-depth experience of these regions. 

Oct 13, 3-8pm, Oct 14, 11am-5pm. 

TABISURU SHINTORA 

MARKET AUTUMN EDITION 

Market: Oct 4-Dec 27. 

Address: 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku. 

Web: www.tabisuru-market.jp 


Looking for your next job in Japan? 

Weekender has teamed up with 

Sunny Side Up Career and 

Coto Work to bring you 

the latest professional 

opportunities 

WEB ENGINEER 

A Tokyo-based IT company is looking for a Web Engineer to join 

their growing team. Engineers make up 40% of the company and 

they all work in-house. The company is proactive about using new 

technologies such as Scala, Node.js, Elixer and more. The main duties 

include development of digital marketing tools and new products. 

Requirements: 

- Java, JavaScript, Ruby, C#, Scala, Elixer 

- DB: MySQL, Oracle 

- OS: iOS, Windows 

- General development and operational experience in web services 

- Experience in programming or development of websites 

Location: Central Tokyo 

Salary: Competitive (based on experience) 

TRANSLATION AND 

COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER 

Our company provides a member service that enables our 

members to get up-to-date information about automobile products, 

innovations and services. We are looking for a candidate to 

manage the content translation (Japanese to English), information 

updates and editing of our website. This position requires previous 

management experience to support and train a team of translators. 

Requirements: 

- Excel, Power Point, Office proficiency 

- Strong written English skills 

- Languages: native English and near native Japanese (N2/N1 level) 

Location: Central Tokyo 


CREATIVE DESIGNER 

Triumph International is seeking a designer to deliver an ongoing 

collection of product designs, in line with seasonal trends, our 

global creative vision, and our design DNA principles. The ideal 

candidate will be a team player, be able to travel frequently, have 

strong communication skills, and possess exceptional consumer 

and competitor understanding. . 

Requirements: 

- 2/3+ years’ experience in intimate/apparel/fashion industries 

- Trend researching experience 

- Design tech packing experience 

- PLM system knowledge 

- Fashion market knowledge 

- CAD design skills: Photoshop/Illustrator 

- University degree 

- Languages: business-level English and Japanese 

Location: Triumph Tokyo office 


BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT 

Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and 

develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing 

the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and 

analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing, 

brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and 

store design. 

Requirements: 

- 3+ years’ work experience 

- 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or 

related industries is preferred 

- Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is 

preferable 

- Analysis and proposal creation experience 

- University degree 

- Language: Japanese and basic English 

Location: Tokyo 

Salary: Competitive (based on experience 

To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit 

40 | OCTOBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 

www.tokyoweekender.com/careers

LIFE LESSONS 

The latest news and views from two of Tokyo's most prominent schools, and what 

we can learn from the Japanese custom of autumn moon viewing. 

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DECEMBER OCTOBER | MARCH 2017 2016 | | 41

ONLY THE 

BEST WILL DO 

HOW THE BRITISH SCHOOL IN TOKYO 

NURTURES ITS STUDENTS TO ENSURE 

THE BRIGHTEST FUTURE 

The British School in Tokyo has enjoyed 

an enviable reputation for the provision 

of high quality education since 

first opening its doors in the heart of 

the city in 1989. Almost without exception, 

we recruit our teachers from the best schools 

in the UK or from other highly rated British 

international schools around the world. 

Uniquely, because we know that finding the 

right people is crucial to our future (and to 

that of our students) we insist on seeing each 

one of them teach in their own schools before 

confirming any appointment. Only the best 

will do. 

The recent acquisition of additional 

space and the completion of major refurbishment 

work on our Showa 

campus has extended our learning 

facilities and accommodated 

the introduction of a range 

of exciting new A Level study 

options, including Computer Science, 

Economics, Photography 

and Theatre Studies. 

Following the achievements 

of last year’s graduates and their 

YOUNG PEOPLE 

TODAY SEE 

THEMSELVES 

AS GLOBAL 

CITIZENS 

success in winning acceptance at some of the 

top universities around the world, the Class 

of 2017 were keen to emulate their predecessors 

and this year’s group has certainly set 

the bar high for those who will follow them. 

Remarkably, 45% of all entries were graded 

A*/A, and over 70% were awarded a B grade 

or better. These results are well above the UK 

national average, where just 26% of entries 

attained the top two grades. It is no surprise 

then to see so many of our students being 

offered places on extremely competitive 

degree courses at prestigious UK Russell 

Group universities, including Cambridge, 

Edinburgh, Imperial and UCL. In keeping 

with our international outlook, BST students 

will also be taking up places 

at universities as far afield as 

Canada, the Netherlands and 

the USA and, closer to home, at 

Keio University here in Japan. 

The success of our oldest 

students in recent years has led 

to a dramatic increase in applications 

from ambitious young 

men and women of all nationalities 

who are keen to give themselves 

the best chance of going 

on to study at the university of 

their choice. Young people today see themselves 

as global citizens and they recognise 

that UK A levels offer an academic passport 

that can take them almost anywhere. Most 

universities worldwide are very familiar 

with Britain’s public examination system and 

are more than happy to accept students with 

A levels or their equivalent. 

Of course, there is much more to life 

at BST than preparation for examinations. 

While parents are impressed by the academic 

rigour and structured progression of our 

particular brand of British education, students 

here learn so much more than how to 

achieve top grades. Sport, music and drama 

are woven into the fabric of school life from 

the very start, and both community service 

and adventurous activity are real strengths. 

We firmly believe that real education 

should extend well beyond the four walls 

of the classroom and we recognise that in 

today’s world so-called “soft skills” are every 

bit as important as paper qualifications. BST 

students are encouraged to explore and to 

take risks, to express their opinions and to 

listen to the ideas of others, to discover the 

joy of exceeding even their own expectations 

of themselves. From their early years in our 

Nursery and Reception classes, our children 

are given countless opportunities to develop 

the independence and resilience that will 

enable them to take the next step in their education 

– wherever it might take them – with 

confidence and a smile. 

To find out more about joining The British 

School in Tokyo, please contact our experienced 

admissions team via admissions@bst.ac.jp 

BST IN NUMBERS 

There's no doubt that all good schools are 

built on the vision, commitment and talent 

of good people. Here’s a quick snapshot of 

The British School in Tokyo's impressive 

resumé… 

28 

1,050 

The number of years BST has been 

open in Tokyo. 

The number of students at 

BST. Growth has been so 

steady that the school now has two sites, 

one in Shibuya and another in Sangenjaya. 

3 to 18 

60 

The wide age range of 

students. 

The number of different nationalities 

represented at BST. 


EXPERIENCES THAT 

LAST A LIFETIME 

TEACHING KIDS TO BECOME PART 

OF A COMMUNITY OF DIVERSITY 

IS ALL IN A DAY’S WORK FOR 

AOBA-JAPAN EXTENSION 

Aoba-Japan's Expansion (AJE) program, 

initially featuring only camps, expanded 

in April this year to include 

continuing programs. These classes 

take place on Saturdays and weekday evenings 

and are open to the public. Their popularity has 

skyrocketed over the past few months as AJE is 

working to meet demand. 

AJE's first continuing program, “Action Saturdays," 

began at the school's Waseda campus 

this past April. Their plan is to open in two or 

more new locations in central Tokyo by April 

2018. AJE Director Greg Culos explains further, 

“Our Saturday and evening programs are based 

on the same philosophies and approaches as our 

camp programs. They have proven so successful 

that we're expanding rapidly. We realized there 

THERE ARE MANY PEOPLE 

WHO MAY NOT NECESSARILY 

WANT THEIR KIDS TO GO TO 

AN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, 

BUT DO WANT THEM TO GROW 

UP IN AN INTERNATIONAL 

ENVIRONMENT 

SIGN UP FOR AJE'S 

WINTER DISCOVERY 

CAMP 2018 

AJE's next Winter Discovery 

Camp will be held in Iwate, over 

five days from January 2 to 

January 6, 2018 

P 

articipants will get the chance to 

immerse themselves in Tohoku's 

rich culture of old and new, as 

well as rediscover winter through a 

number of unique activities, including 

staying overnight in a Mongolian 

Ger, learning curling from Olympians, 

bathing in a barrel onsen, and 

riding a kotatsu train along the coast. 

Other activities include skiing, and 

making mochi and soba with locals 

from Iwate. 

It's a fantastic opportunity for 

young people to communicate with 

people from all over the world and to 

become part of a community of diversity. 

On a more serious note, children 

will also learn about the 2011 Great 

Tohoku Earthquake directly from the 

people most affected by the disaster. 

For more information and to sign up 

for AJE’s Winter Discovery Camp 2018, 

visit www.campsinjapan.com 

are many people who may not necessarily 

want their kids to go to an international 

school, but do want them to grow up in an 

international environment." 

When asked about the differing English 

levels of students in one class, Culos 

emphasizes that successful learning is 

a factor of encouragement and inclusivity. 

Though kids with similar abilities are generally 

grouped together, AJE does sometimes 

mix it up a little. The reason for this, in part, 

is that the children can teach and learn 

from each other. There is no "English only" 

policy since Culos believes restrictions are 

counterproductive to learning. Instead, he 

believes children learn more when allowed 

to process new information naturally. “Usually 

kids who switch to their native language 

are asking for confirmation and making sure 

they understand. They're not talking about 

unrelated things," Culos says. 

The Mommy and Me Saturday class has 

proven especially popular and gives parents 

a chance to learn, too. Greg Culos says, 

“The parents get right into it. It's a lot of 

fun and effective too. When these toddlers 

move up to higher level classes, the transitions 

become easier since they have begun 

to develop the mindsets key to independent 

learning and collaboration." 

The goal for both camps and continuing 

programs alike is to create an environment 

where children can feel excited about 

learning and confident to use their new 

skills to help them grow. 


The Moon 

and Beyond 

First on the scene was a monkey, curious to 

Brian Christian reflects 

find out where this strange old beggar had 

sprung from, closely followed by an equally 

on the Japanese custom of inquisitive fox and a rather nervous rabbit 

autumn moon viewing 

(most rabbits are nervous when there’s a fox 

about). 

“Please help me,” begged the old man. 

“I’m starving. Is there any food to be found 

round here?” To be honest he was putting 

it on a bit but, as any guest in this country 

learns very quickly, there is no more distressing 

sight to a Japanese host than a hungry 

visitor. The monkey immediately dashed off 

through the trees and soon returned with an 

armful of looted fruit and the wily fox was 

just as quick to snaffle a fine fish from a nearby 

stream. 

The people of Japan have an intriguing 

affinity with the natural world. 

Perhaps an acute awareness of 

Mother Nature’s potential for savage 

violence encourages an appreciation 

of her more forgiving moods. Whatever the 

reason, this is a country where the everyday 

wonders of the fields, forests and mountains, 

and of the changing seasons are often a cause 

for celebration. Think of the springtime hanami 

parties to welcome the cherry blossom 

and later in the year, as the temperatures 

fall and the leaves begin to turn, all those 

weekend pilgrimages to marvel at the reds 

and golds of autumn. 

The Japanese fascination with sakura 

and koyo is well known but at this time of 

year another long-established custom comes 

to the fore. Tsukimi or “moon-gazing” may 

be associated with occasional special lunar 

events but in this country we don’t have to 

wait for an eclipse to turn our attention to 

our extra-terrestrial neighbour. A full moon 

in any month is worthy of our appreciation 

and at this time of the year the Harvest Moon 

is always a special cause for celebration. Children 

all over Japan will enjoy eating sweet 

tsukimi dango (white rice dumplings) and 

singing their jugoya songs to the rabbit in the 

moon. That’s right, the rabbit in the moon. 

Once upon a long time ago, so the story 

goes, the old man of the moon crossed the 

sky to explore the big blue world below. 

The journey was long and tiring – he was a 

very old man after all – and when he finally 

arrived he was famished and desperately in 

need of sustenance. Luckily for him, he had 

made landfall in Japan where they happen 

to know a thing or two about hospitality and 

good food, so help was not long in coming. 

CHILDREN ALL OVER 

JAPAN WILL ENJOY 

EATING TSUKIMI DANGO 

AND SINGING THEIR 

JUGOYA SONGS TO THE 

RABBIT IN THE MOON 

The rabbit however, though just as eager to 

please, could only hop round and round in a 

state of bewildered panic: “What can I give 

him? He can’t eat grass, the owl café isn’t 

open yet and the nearest vegetable patch is 

miles away…” Eventually, he came up with a 

not-so-bright and rather macabre, idea: “Dear 

old fellow,” he said. “A persimmon or two and 

a few slices of fresh sashimi are all very well 

but you need something more substantial to 

warm you up. If you could light a fire, I would 

be honoured to provide you with a tasty roasted 

rabbit.” 

Now if this had been just any hungry traveller 

the story might have had a very different 

ending but it all worked out well in the end. 

Surprised and strangely moved by the suicidal 

generosity of his new-found furry friend, 

instead of reaching for a box of matches and 

his chopsticks, the grateful old man gathered 

him up in his arms and flew back home to the 

moon where, as every Japanese child knows, 

they both lived happily ever after – as enthusiastic 

vegetarians. 

This year the Harvest Moon rises on October 

4 in the Japanese micro-season (there are 

72 of them!) of mizu hajimete karuru (when 

farmers drain the fields). It won’t quite be 

a full moon – that comes two days later on 

the sixth – but the rabbit will still be clearly 

visible to anyone who chooses to look heavenwards 

and as the children sing their songs 

many adults will raise a cup of sake and give 

thanks for nature’s bounty. 

It seems to me that a folk-tale about 

generosity and selflessness and kindness 

to strangers is one worth thinking about in 

these uncertain times. Too often our daily 

news is dominated by stories of blind nationalism, 

narrow self-interest and a blatant 

disregard for the needs of our neighbours 

or of the generations to come. It may be no 

more than a child’s fairy-story but perhaps 

we should all look up at the moon tonight and 

remember the rabbit… 

Usagi usagi 

Nani mite haneru 

Juugoya o-tsuki-sama 

Mite haneru 

(Oh, rabbit on the moon, 

What are you leaping for? 

I shall leap, I shall leap soon 

At the large full moon!) 

Brian Christian is the Principal of the British 

School in Tokyo. 

44 | OCTOBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 


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Society 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY 

Exile’s Iwata Takanori and director Christopher Nolan at 

Warner Brothers’ press conference for Dunkirk 

Maybe I’m wrong but looking back it seems August 

even with the heat was busier than ever, and from 

the looks of happenings coming up, October and the 

rest of 2017 will be even busier. That’s the way I and 

I know many of you like it. 

I’m so happy the Japanese seem to be getting back into the Broadway 

show and international musical scene. I really enjoyed the international 

production of one of my all-time favorite musicals, West 

Side Story, this summer. If you’re into Broadway, ballet, and showbiz 

you have a lot of things to choose from this fall and winter. I can’t list 

them all here, but will list a few I’ve 

seen and really enjoyed. The Argentine 

show Fuerza Bruta is back with 

an exciting new production titled 

Beyond the Next Level, which runs 

through December 10. I saw it two 

years ago, and like Cirque du Soleil, 

it really is mind-boggling. My French 

Canadian friend Guy Laliberté who, 

along with another street performer, 

created the always sold out Cirque 

du Soleil shows, is bringing one in 

that I hadn’t heard of. It’s titled Kurios: 

Cabinet of Curiosities and it will 

run from February 7 until April 8 

next year at Odaiba Big Top. I was 

surprised to see that there’s a Japanese 

version of the off-Broadway 

play Hedwig and the Angry Inch. The 

off-the-wall production is being promoted 

as a special show and will just 

have two days of performances in 

Tokyo on October 14 and 15, and one 

in Osaka on October 17. If you see it 

you’ll understand why they label it 

very special. 

I’ve seen the off-Broadway award 

winner Blast endless times and had 

many parties for their cast over the 

years in Roppongi. The show is an 

exciting combo of percussion instruments, 

dance and endless energy. I went to their last show in Tokyo 

before they toured all over Japan. Since I last saw the show years ago, 

the producers have tied up with Disney. This, of course, means money, 

and the talent, the sets, and the choreography add up to a real winner. 

The 2,000 seats at Shibuya’s ORB Theatre were sold out, and the show 

got several standing ovations. I just learned that ORB is bringing in 

a production of another of my favorites, Evita, for their fifth anniversary 

early next year. There’ll also be a Japanese co-production of 

the Rocky Horror Picture Show at Zepp Theater 11/7–11/12, and Parco 

11/16–12/3. 

Thanks to Junko Koshino. I had the privilege of seeing the latest 

Drum Tao show before they went to Paris and Singapore. The awesome 

drumming, the shamisen and koto playing, the choreography, 

the high-tech stage sets, and Junko’s costumes added up to entertainment 

at its very best. After the show I met a host of interesting people 

at a party Junko and her husband Hiroyuki Suzuki hosted at Vanity, 

a popular club in Roppongi. These included the new French Ambassador 

Laurent Pic, Mikawa Kenichi, and actor Tatsumi Takuro. Mikawa-san 

will be performing at Dewi Sukarno’s 20th Annual Imperial 

Banquet at Meguro Gajoen on October 14. The Tao drummers will be 

back in Tokyo by then and they have shows at the Shinagawa Prince 

Hotel from September 16 to October 29. 

As they say, “there’s no business like show business,” but I feel that 

there’s probably been enough of it in this month's column. It’s time to 

move onto the social scene... 

WARNER BROTHERS 

PRESS CONFERENCE FOR 

CHRISTOPHER NOLAN 

The big Academy Hills room on the 

49th floor of the Mori Tower was wallto-wall 

enthusiastic journalists, as the 

special guest that day was Christopher 

Nolan whose film Dunkirk has been a 

huge box office hit wherever it’s been 

shown. The crowd’s feeling about the 

film and Christopher was great, and 

I appreciated the way he handled all 

the questions. As he explained a few 

times, “We interviewed men who had 

actually been there.” He wanted to 

create suspense and the idea of survival, 

and he wanted the film to have 

the power to shock. In order to appeal 

to young people, he visited drama 

schools and looked to use acting students 

who hadn’t been in films before. 

As a director, he feels like an architect 

or conductor (he really likes to work 

with sounds) who is bringing many 

different elements together. 

Warner Brothers had brought 

in Exile’s star member Iwata Takanori 

as a guest for the second half of the 

conference. It was a good choice as the 

actor-musician is a big fan of Nolan, and so knew what he was talking 

about. At the end of the interview, he was really happy when Nolan presented 

him with an autographed copy of the Dunkirk screenplay. Don’t 

miss this film – and try to see it in an IMAX theater. 

FORSYTH’S PERUVIAN NATIONAL 

DAY AT WESTIN HOTEL 

Peruvian Ambassador Harold W. Forsyth and his wife Veronica were 

only here a short time before they hosted the reception to celebrate 

the 196th anniversary of Peru’s Independence Day. For the event, 

they chose the elegant Kaede Room in the European-influenced Westin 

Hotel. It was packed with people and I was surprised at the number 

of VIPs whom I thought were out of Japan for the holidays but 

were there that evening. Familiar faces in the crowd included top 


JAMAICA NATIONAL DAY 

AT THE OKURA 

1. Jamaican Amb. Clement Allicock and 

guest speaker Shunsuke Takei 2. Amb. 

Allicock, Takei-san, Ota Mayor Tadayoshi 

Matsubara, Material Co. Pres. Junichi 

Hosogai (Sponsor of Jamaica Bobsled 

Team) 3. Victoria Allicock, Amb. and Mrs. 

Allicock, Nicaraguan Amb. Saul Arana 4. 

Kyoko Spector and Liberian Amb. Yongor 

Telewoda 5. Kyoko with Monique Dehaney 

(left) and Jhana Graham (right) 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

7 

6 

8 

9 

11 

10 

WINE NIGHT 

– OAKWOOD 

PREMIERE 

6. Hiroku Sakura, 

showbiz agent Keisuke 

Yasuda, Oakwood’s Amy 

Hanashiro 

7. Oakwood’s man in 

Japan, Martin Fluck, 

James Moynihan, 

architect Seiji Sato 

8. Oakwood’s staff 

members: Kenta, Akbar, 

and Ayaka 

12 

13 

JUNKO KOSHINO PARTY 

– TAO & VANITY 

9. Takarazuka girl/TV star Miki 

Maya, designer Junko Koshino, and 

Tao drummers 10. Actor Tatsumi 

Takuro, his daughter soprano opera 

singer Marie, and one of Marie’s 

fans 11. Akihiko Kanamaru, Junko, 

retired military general Toshiya 

Okabe, Junko’s photographer husband 

Hiroyuki Suzuki 12. Junko, former 

Japan Amb. to France Saito-san, 

popular singer and showbiz celeb 

Mikawa Kenichi 13. French Amb. 

Laurent Pic, a Tao star, Azerbaijan 

Amb. Gursel Ismayilzade 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | OCTOBER 2017 | 47

FORSYTH’S PERUVIAN 

NATIONAL DAY 

AT WESTIN HOTEL 

1. Our new Peruvian Amb. Harold Forsyth, 

his wife Veronica, and politician Hirotaka 

Ishihara 2. Hisanaga and Takako Shimazu 

congratulate the hosting couple 3. El 

Salvador Amb. Martha Zelayandia and 

Israel Amb. Ruth Kahanoff 4. Members 

of the Metropolitan police force 5. Kyoko 

Spector and Croatian Amb. Drazea Hrastic 6. 

Moldovan Amb. and Mrs. Vasile Bumacov 

1 

2 

7 

3 

4 

5 

9 

6 

8 

11 

10 

12 

NATIONAL AZABU 

BARBECUE 

7. Mexican counsellor Armando 

Arriaga, his wife Serok, their daughter 

Antonia 8. Nomura Securities’ Gary 

Hyman, his wife Efrot 9. Healthy Tokyo’s 

Michael Bobrove with staff member 

Aki Asama (left) and project manager 

David Israelsson (right) 10. Akari 

Yamamoto, her daughters, Momoe and 

Anri 11. Tohokushinsha Pres. Tetsu 

Uemura, Fuji TV & Fuji Holdings Pres. 

and Mrs. Masaki Miyauchi 12. Tetsu, 

Nisshin Noodles Pres. Tohru and Mrs. 

Horinouchi, Armando 


lawyer Toshihiro Matsumaru. It was, as always, wonderful talking 

with Hisanaga and (sister of the emperor) Takako Shimazu as well as 

Kazuko Ito, the new president of Soka Gakkai’s Min-On Concert Association, 

and Hirotaka Ishihara, son of the former governor of Tokyo 

and Diet Member. If you’re into ethnic food, as I am, you'll know that 

Peruvian food has recently gained international popularity – and the 

Peruvian Embassy and Westin worked together on a bountiful, beautiful, 

delicious, and healthy buffet of Peruvian specialties. Healthaddict 

friends have introduced me to goji berries from China, chia 

seeds, and the grain quinoa which was used in a delicious Peruvian 

dessert that night. The hosting couple, Ambassador and Señora 

Forsyth, are a very international, sophisticated, outgoing couple. I’m 

sure they’ll like Japan, and Japan will like them. Our congratulations 

on their super celebration, and we wish them a long, happy, and successful 

posting here. 

JAMAICA 55TH ANNIVERSARY 

RECEPTION AT THE OKURA 

Jamaican Ambassador Clement Allicock, his wife Suzanne, and their 

family and staff hosted a reception at the Okura Hotel. The occasion 

was to celebrate Jamaica’s Independence Day. Thanks to Bob Marley’s 

music, the fastest man in the world Usain Bolt, the Jamaican bobsled 

team, the people of Jamaica, and their laid-back way of life, it’s a very 

popular country in Japan, especially with the younger generation. As 

you can see from the photos, they’re good-looking people and appreciate 

chic fashion. They’re also very talented, and I was thrilled to see 

two professional singers who know how to belt out pop music. One of 

them, Jhana Graham, opened the program with her renditions of the 

Jamaican and Japanese anthems. The other, Monique Dehaney, didn’t 

sing at the reception, but I’ve seen her perform before, and believe me 

she’s excellent. 

Ambassador Allicock is a great speaker and he had plenty of interesting 

things to say about his country in his welcome speech. I was also 

impressed with the Vice Minister of Foreign Affairs Shunsuke Takei’s 

speech and toast. The buffet was first class with a variety of healthy 

salads, great curry, and of course, Jamaica’s famous jerk chicken. 

Ambassador Allicock is super busy with all kinds of colorful promos, 

and interesting people. These, of course, included a lot of cheering 

for Bolt who ran the day after the celebration. I had the pleasure of 

meeting and talking with the sports legend a couple of years ago when 

he was with former Jamaican Ambassador Claudia Barnes when she 

was posted here. 

Hopefully we’ll continue to see a lot of him in the ad campaigns he 

does for ANA and Nissan. I’m sure that like another Jamaican legend – 

musician Bob Marley – he will continue to be a star as well. I enjoyed 

talking with Takei, the young and dynamic Japanese politician, as well 

as Junichi Hosogai, who’s one of the sponsors of the Jamaican bobsled 

team. Our congratulations on all the Jamaican events to celebrate 

many things Jamaican. 

NATIONAL AZABU CUSTOMER 

APPRECIATION BARBECUE 

One of the many special things that National Azabu does to get 

involved in the community is their popular barbecues. These are 

complimentary for VIP customers and are held in the supermarket’s 

parking lot several times a year. Mother Nature was kind on 

Sunday, September 10, and it was a beautiful day for the afternoon/ 

evening event and was crowded with a variety of guests. Healthy 

Tokyo had a booth and was giving out samples of energy bars, and 

Matcha Miracle Drink and Honest Bee staff kept busy explaining 

their grocery delivery services. Great food included Benito’s 

paella, barbecued steak, super sandwiches, and a salad bar. Kids 

had plenty to do with micro-scooters, catching noodles from a 

long bamboo shoot (nagashi somen), and trying games of chance. 

Entertainment included music by a New Orleans-style band, several 

vocalists, and a clown. For those looking for luxury, there was a 

beautiful Lamborghini on display. The party ended with several 

chefs working on a 60kg tuna – and there was delicious sashimi for 

everyone. It was a great get-together in every way. Congratulations 

to the Uemura family, the owners of National Azabu, and all of 

the great staff. And if you want to check a really great Halloween 

display that’s full of spooky good fun for kids and adults alike, drop 

by at National Azabu. They’ve gone all out this year. 

THIS & THAT 

October comes to an end with Halloween, which has become a major 

celebration here in Tokyo and beyond. But how did a custom 

brought to America by Irish immigrants get to Omotesando? The story 

goes back to the late 1970s, when one of the big American donut 

chains ran a Halloween promotion, giving a saucer decorated with 

trick-or-treaters to anyone who bought a dozen donuts. The chain’s 

Japanese stores had the same promotion, but had to come up with 

some explanation. So, Halloween was billed as a day to buy and eat 

donuts. And that's what it was for several years until marketers saw 

the possibility of expanding beyond donuts to candy, costumes and 

decorations. Now, Halloween is on its way to joining Christmas as a 

major Japanese commercial and social event. Keep an eye out for the 

Easter Bunny, who is likely to hop up soon to join Santa Claus and 

Jack-o’-Lantern. 

This year, October 31 has extra significance. It is the 500th anniversary 

of the Reformation, which is being commemorated worldwide 

not only by Protestants, but even by Catholics and people with 

no connection to those religions. Because Japan is so close to the International 

Date Line, among the world’s first events to mark the day 

will be here in Tokyo, when Maestro Robert Rÿker of the Tokyo Sinfonia 

will lead some 250 artists in a performance of Brahms’ German 

Requiem at the Tokyo Metropolitan Theater. Visit www.r500.co for 

information and tickets. 

Father Grimm, Bill, Bill Ireton, Shiga, and Dale Toriumi 

gathered to celebrate Bill’s birthday 

Marty Kuehnert, Horst, Hiroshi, and baseball great 

Randy Bass at the Ex 

Charo, Bill, Roberta, and Matthew Ireton with Keanu 

Reeves and Chad Stahelski, who were in Tokyo 

recently to promote John Wick 2 


[ PROMOTION ] 

Whether you’re just visiting Japan or 

you’ve been here for a while, here are 

a few tips that will help you on your 

travels in Tokyo and beyond 

GET TO GRIPS WITH THE 

NO-NAME STREETS 

Trying to figure out a 

Japanese address? It starts 

with prefecture, then the 

city or the ward, and then 

the neighborhood. After 

this, the subdivisions are 

districts, blocks, and building 

numbers. Districts and blocks 

are usually numbered by how 

close they are to the center 

of a neighborhood or ward. 

Finally the building number 

comes next. This number is 

assigned either in clockwise 

order around a block, or according 

to the order in which 

the buildings were built. 

Confused yet? Don’t worry, 

you’re not alone. 

CHARGE A CARD 

Buy a Suica or Pasmo card as soon as you can. It’ll 

save you money, it’s easy to charge, and it’ll get you 

through the turnstiles faster. Now, more and more 

cities will let you use a Suica or Pasmo card on their 

public transportation. You can buy them at any 

train station, and all machines offer English service. 

APP IT UP 

For good information about 

locations and directions 

in Japan, Google Maps 

still beats out Apple Maps 

if you’re on an iPhone. If 

you really want detailed 

information about train 

and bus routes while you’re 

traveling, apps like and 

Hyperdia and Navitime are 

your best bet. 

DON'T DISMISS THE BUSES 

Limousine buses take you to and from 

the airports, are cheaper than trains, and 

go directly to some hotels. Even if you’re 

not staying at one of the larger hotels, 

they can get you closer to where you 

need to go, without having to lug bags 

through crowded train stations. You can 

get information about bus lines at the 

arrivals terminal at Narita and Haneda. 

SHIP IT 

If you’re getting loaded down with souvenirs or 

have an extra bag you won’t need until you’re back 

at the airport, Japanese companies like Yamato 

offer a great service: you can just ship your bags or 

packages to hotels or to the airport. You’ll need to 

plan ahead though, as it can take a day or two for 

your package to arrive. You can find out more about 

Yamato TA-Q-BIN service at www.kuronekoyamato. 

co.jp/en/tourist/. 

PICK UP MOBILE WIFI 

No matter where your travels take you, you don’t 

want to miss out on uploading your pictures and 

posts, finding your way around, and staying in 

touch with your friends while you’re on the go. 

With Pocket WiFi from SoftBank offered through 

Global Mobile, you can be online all the time, 

with blazing fast LTE. Service is available for as 

little as ¥200 a day. For more details, visit 

www.gmobile.biz/softbank/inbound. 


To all investors and customers of The Parkhouse series: 

The Mitsubishi Jisho Residence overseas 

sales team is on hand for all your needs 

For the most up-to-date information about Mitsubishi Jisho 

Residence's new real estate projects, please visit our 

English website at www.mecsumai.com/international/en 

For inquiries, please email mjrtph@mec-r.com 

Live in a Home for Life. The Parkhouse

Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

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