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Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

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[ PROMOTION ]<br />

Stand 2 houses Hioki, a city on the west<br />

coast of Kagoshima, known as the birthplace<br />

of Satsuma pottery. Brought over from<br />

the Korean peninsula over 400 years ago, this<br />

craft is part of an industry known worldwide.<br />

Many craftsmen still use over 400-year-old<br />

kilns to fire their kama-style ceramics.<br />

Stand 3 belongs to Suzuka city, which has<br />

a long history of craftsmanship. Suzuka<br />

Sumi ink sticks are made from pine tree<br />

soot and oils and were first produced in the<br />

Heian period (710-784). These ink sticks are<br />

sought after by calligraphy artists nationwide.<br />

Today, only two artisans have inherited this<br />

traditional craft. Suzuka is also known for its<br />

Ise Katagami Stencil paper, which has over<br />

1,000 years of history behind it. The stencil<br />

is used to create designs for kimono dyeing.<br />

Planned patterns are painstakingly carved out<br />

of the paper, which requires the utmost skill<br />

and patience.<br />

Sharing Stand 4 are Awashimaura, Yahiko,<br />

and Izumozaki – all of which are in Niigata<br />

Prefecture. Awashimaura is a green and lush<br />

island, rich in natural resources despite its<br />

small size. Yahiko is home to Yahiko Shrine,<br />

a centuries-old pilgrimage destination and<br />

home to ancient Echigo (old Niigata) culture.<br />

Japan's largest chrysanthemum festival is held<br />

here every year in November. Izumozaki is<br />

as known for its fishing as it’s known for its<br />

waxed paper balloon making. The city boasts<br />

100 years in the paper balloon business and<br />

is the number one paper balloon purveyor in<br />

Japan. Together, these three areas represent<br />

Niigata's finest features of sea, mountains,<br />

and abundant greenery.<br />

SIP RARE SAKE<br />

As the evening breeze begins to cool, a sip of<br />

something stronger can help keep you warm.<br />

Find hard-to-get sake and shochu at the market<br />

stands from the various regions. Komono's<br />

Hayakawa Shuzo gives visitors a choice of<br />

three different Tabika sake so they can taste<br />

the difference between sake types within the<br />

same company. As Hioki is in shochu country,<br />

offers bargain sips of imo (sweet potato)<br />

shochu instead of sake. Seikai no Kaori has a<br />

rich and sweet flavor, while Haraguchi Shuzo<br />

offers a round, rich mouthfeel with earthy<br />

tones. Both come at an affordable ¥300 a<br />

glass. Suzuka's Zaku Ho no Tomo sake has<br />

received international recognition for its mellow<br />

and slightly sweet, but balanced flavor.<br />

Niigata touts its Koshi no Hakusetsu from<br />

Yahiko Shuzo, which is has a clear sharpness<br />

to it and is the brewery's standard. For those<br />

interested in purchasing sake by the bottle,<br />

the Tabisuru Store has a wide range of sake<br />

for all tastes.<br />

TASTE REGIONAL, SEASONAL NABE<br />

Just as every season has its own charm,<br />

every region has its own take on autumnal<br />

delicacies. As temperatures cool, the hotpots<br />

come out and, here, each region uses its own<br />

distinctive ingredients and cooking methods.<br />

Komono's souhei motsu nabe (literally priest<br />

soldier offal hot pot), contains a variety of<br />

local specialty meats and serves two to three<br />

people. Kagoshima prides itself on its black<br />

pork, chicken, and seafood – and Hinoki's<br />

barley miso nabe makes the most of these,<br />

creating a bowl of umami deliciousness.<br />

Suzuka's delightful take on shabu shabu<br />

features sakura pork and a delicious tea soup<br />

base (serves two to three people). For those<br />

wanting something a little bit heartier, the<br />

Niigata trio have come up with an omusubi<br />

lunchbox coupled with miso soup. Omusubi<br />

is another word for rice ball, but the verb<br />

musubu means to tie together or unite –<br />

which is what the dish does for these<br />

Niigata towns.<br />

WEAR SAMURAI ARMOR AT THE<br />

POP-UP MARKET<br />

In mid-<strong>October</strong>, there will be a special twoday<br />

event featuring fresh vegetables, crafts,<br />

and workshops. Visitors can wear samurai<br />

armor from Kagoshima, try their hand at<br />

making their own Ise katagami stencil paper,<br />

and write with Suzuka Sumi ink. It will be a<br />

rare chance to buy crafts from each of the regions,<br />

as well as sample vegetables and local<br />

dishes. This is a unique chance to get a true,<br />

in-depth experience of these regions.<br />

Oct 13, 3-8pm, Oct 14, 11am-5pm.<br />

TABISURU SHINTORA<br />

MARKET AUTUMN EDITION<br />

Market: Oct 4-Dec 27.<br />

Address: 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku.<br />

Web: www.tabisuru-market.jp<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 39

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