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Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

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The Moon<br />

and Beyond<br />

First on the scene was a monkey, curious to<br />

Brian Christian reflects<br />

find out where this strange old beggar had<br />

sprung from, closely followed by an equally<br />

on the Japanese custom of inquisitive fox and a rather nervous rabbit<br />

autumn moon viewing<br />

(most rabbits are nervous when there’s a fox<br />

about).<br />

“Please help me,” begged the old man.<br />

“I’m starving. Is there any food to be found<br />

round here?” To be honest he was putting<br />

it on a bit but, as any guest in this country<br />

learns very quickly, there is no more distressing<br />

sight to a Japanese host than a hungry<br />

visitor. The monkey immediately dashed off<br />

through the trees and soon returned with an<br />

armful of looted fruit and the wily fox was<br />

just as quick to snaffle a fine fish from a nearby<br />

stream.<br />

The people of Japan have an intriguing<br />

affinity with the natural world.<br />

Perhaps an acute awareness of<br />

Mother Nature’s potential for savage<br />

violence encourages an appreciation<br />

of her more forgiving moods. Whatever the<br />

reason, this is a country where the everyday<br />

wonders of the fields, forests and mountains,<br />

and of the changing seasons are often a cause<br />

for celebration. Think of the springtime hanami<br />

parties to welcome the cherry blossom<br />

and later in the year, as the temperatures<br />

fall and the leaves begin to turn, all those<br />

weekend pilgrimages to marvel at the reds<br />

and golds of autumn.<br />

The Japanese fascination with sakura<br />

and koyo is well known but at this time of<br />

year another long-established custom comes<br />

to the fore. Tsukimi or “moon-gazing” may<br />

be associated with occasional special lunar<br />

events but in this country we don’t have to<br />

wait for an eclipse to turn our attention to<br />

our extra-terrestrial neighbour. A full moon<br />

in any month is worthy of our appreciation<br />

and at this time of the year the Harvest Moon<br />

is always a special cause for celebration. Children<br />

all over Japan will enjoy eating sweet<br />

tsukimi dango (white rice dumplings) and<br />

singing their jugoya songs to the rabbit in the<br />

moon. That’s right, the rabbit in the moon.<br />

Once upon a long time ago, so the story<br />

goes, the old man of the moon crossed the<br />

sky to explore the big blue world below.<br />

The journey was long and tiring – he was a<br />

very old man after all – and when he finally<br />

arrived he was famished and desperately in<br />

need of sustenance. Luckily for him, he had<br />

made landfall in Japan where they happen<br />

to know a thing or two about hospitality and<br />

good food, so help was not long in coming.<br />

CHILDREN ALL OVER<br />

JAPAN WILL ENJOY<br />

EATING TSUKIMI DANGO<br />

AND SINGING THEIR<br />

JUGOYA SONGS TO THE<br />

RABBIT IN THE MOON<br />

The rabbit however, though just as eager to<br />

please, could only hop round and round in a<br />

state of bewildered panic: “What can I give<br />

him? He can’t eat grass, the owl café isn’t<br />

open yet and the nearest vegetable patch is<br />

miles away…” Eventually, he came up with a<br />

not-so-bright and rather macabre, idea: “Dear<br />

old fellow,” he said. “A persimmon or two and<br />

a few slices of fresh sashimi are all very well<br />

but you need something more substantial to<br />

warm you up. If you could light a fire, I would<br />

be honoured to provide you with a tasty roasted<br />

rabbit.”<br />

Now if this had been just any hungry traveller<br />

the story might have had a very different<br />

ending but it all worked out well in the end.<br />

Surprised and strangely moved by the suicidal<br />

generosity of his new-found furry friend,<br />

instead of reaching for a box of matches and<br />

his chopsticks, the grateful old man gathered<br />

him up in his arms and flew back home to the<br />

moon where, as every Japanese child knows,<br />

they both lived happily ever after – as enthusiastic<br />

vegetarians.<br />

This year the Harvest Moon rises on <strong>October</strong><br />

4 in the Japanese micro-season (there are<br />

72 of them!) of mizu hajimete karuru (when<br />

farmers drain the fields). It won’t quite be<br />

a full moon – that comes two days later on<br />

the sixth – but the rabbit will still be clearly<br />

visible to anyone who chooses to look heavenwards<br />

and as the children sing their songs<br />

many adults will raise a cup of sake and give<br />

thanks for nature’s bounty.<br />

It seems to me that a folk-tale about<br />

generosity and selflessness and kindness<br />

to strangers is one worth thinking about in<br />

these uncertain times. Too often our daily<br />

news is dominated by stories of blind nationalism,<br />

narrow self-interest and a blatant<br />

disregard for the needs of our neighbours<br />

or of the generations to come. It may be no<br />

more than a child’s fairy-story but perhaps<br />

we should all look up at the moon tonight and<br />

remember the rabbit…<br />

Usagi usagi<br />

Nani mite haneru<br />

Juugoya o-tsuki-sama<br />

Mite haneru<br />

(Oh, rabbit on the moon,<br />

What are you leaping for?<br />

I shall leap, I shall leap soon<br />

At the large full moon!)<br />

Brian Christian is the Principal of the British<br />

School in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />

44 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 44

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