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Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

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DAY 1<br />

[ PROMOTION ]<br />

Trip 2:<br />

FOR FANTASY FANS & NATURE ENTHUSIASTS<br />

Miyazaki Prefecture<br />

TAKACHIHO GORGE, AOSHIMA BEACH & UDO SHRINE<br />

Miyazaki’s nature and spiritual spots bowled us over. To recreate our pilgrimage, make your<br />

first destination Takachiho, home to shrines related to sun goddess Amaterasu, and Takachiho<br />

Gorge, a chasm created by the flow of a river through volcanic rock. Either walk a trail<br />

that runs alongside the gorge or rent a boat and row down it. Next, take a bus to Aoshima.<br />

No, this isn’t the Aoshima full of cats – that’s the one in Ehime – but this Aoshima features<br />

a beach, botanic gardens, and a shrine set under a jungle canopy. Swing by Aoshima Beach<br />

Park (open spring through summer), a hip pop-up eatery collective, but don’t forget the<br />

mom-and-pop food stands (try the nikumakionigiri, rice balls wrapped in meat). Finally, take<br />

a bus to Udo Shrine. A 20-minute walk from the closest bus stop, Udo is inside a cave that faces<br />

the ocean, and will make you feel like you’ve reached the shrine at the end of the world.<br />

HOW TO GET THERE<br />

Takachiho is located between<br />

Oita, Miyazaki and Kumamoto,<br />

and can be reached via bus<br />

from each city. Aoshima and<br />

Udo lie just south of Miyazaki;<br />

both can be reached on the<br />

same bus line, which runs<br />

about once per hour.<br />

WHERE TO STAY To visit<br />

all three, make your base<br />

Miyazaki. If beach-going is<br />

your main goal, there are<br />

several hotel and guesthouse<br />

options right in Aoshima.<br />

GETTING<br />

TO AND<br />

AROUND<br />

KYUSHU<br />

The third<br />

biggest island<br />

of Japan,<br />

Kyushu<br />

has seven<br />

prefectures.<br />

Domestic flights from <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s Narita or<br />

Haneda airports take about two hours<br />

to any of Kyushu’s airports, but it’s also<br />

possible to travel by Shinkansen. Within<br />

Kyushu, car rental is best if you’re planning<br />

to explore more remote areas, but<br />

for the four trips we’ve planned here,<br />

you’ll be able to get around mainly on<br />

the Kyushu Shinkansen and local trains.<br />

In fact, traveling on JR Kyushu<br />

trains is one of the highlights of visiting<br />

the island as the company has invested<br />

heavily in designing unique and luxurious<br />

trains, making the journey between<br />

prefectures a real pleasure. Aside from<br />

hopping on the Shinkansen, you might<br />

also want to take a look at some of<br />

the resort trains on offer, such as the<br />

Yufuin no Mori, which boasts a lounge<br />

with wooden interior, and the A-TRAIN,<br />

which features wood and stained glass<br />

décor. For more information about the<br />

JR Kyushu Rail Pass, and the different<br />

trains, visit www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/.<br />

DAY 2<br />

KIRISHIMA<br />

The Kirishima mountain range is an<br />

important spot in Japanese folklore<br />

and great for hiking. The range<br />

includes active volcanoes and is<br />

said to be where Ninigi-no-Mikoto,<br />

grandson of goddess Amaterasu,<br />

descended to earth (though Miyazaki’s<br />

Takachiho makes the same claim).<br />

Regardless, Kirishima Shrine, devoted<br />

to Ninigi-no-Mikoto, is an impressive<br />

complex (be sure to try the hoko mochi<br />

cinnamon sweets). From the shrine,<br />

make your way to the Takachiho-gawara<br />

Visitor's Center, from where you<br />

can embark on one of several hikes.<br />

Kirishima is famous for its crater<br />

lakes, but volcanic activity means the<br />

trails are often off-limits, so check in<br />

with the Visitor's Center first. One of<br />

the safest bets is the hike to Mount<br />

Takachiho-no-mine, said to be the spot<br />

where Ninigi-no-Mikoto descended.<br />

HOW<br />

TO GET<br />

THERE<br />

Kirishima<br />

is roughly<br />

equidistant<br />

from Kagoshima and Miyazaki.<br />

From either city, jump on the dark<br />

grey JR Kyushu's Limited Express<br />

Kirishima train that looks like it<br />

was designed by Darth Vader and<br />

enjoy some incredible scenery.<br />

WHERE TO STAY Shinyu<br />

Onsen Ryokan (tel: 099-578-2255)<br />

for its milky-white, sulfur baths,<br />

or Kirishima Hotel (www.kirishima-hotel.jp)<br />

for a Western-style<br />

facility.<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 19

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