WHERE beliv_december_2017 web

DECEMBER 2017
WheretraveLer.com
Budapest
®
Recommended by your Concierge
SACRED
BUILDINGS
PLACES OF WORSHIP
CHRISTMAS
CHEER
Festive shows, concerts,
markets, foods, drinks
PLUS
ICE SKATING
WINE & DINE
HOT BATHS

Széchenyi
tér
Radisson Blu
Béke Hotel
Continental Hotel
Boscolo Budapest
Fraser
Residence
II. János Pál
pápa tér
Budapest December 2017
the guide
11 ENTERTAINMENT
Venue & Cinema listings
A jazz concert by the Dresch Quartet
14 Art & Museums
Cultural site listings
Hungarian painting in turbulent times
17 Shops & SERVICES
Boutique & Store listings
Local products for a good cause
21 Wellness
Spa & Salon listings
Skating at the Ice Rank in the City Park
24 dining
Restaurant listings
Eating Out on Christmas Eve
3
Contents
3 HOT DATES
Christmas Eve, Jewish Film Festival, Mikulás, Kodály at the Liszt Music Academy,
New Year’s Eve
4 WHERE NOW
Exhibitions: Within Frames, Hungary at the Venice Biennale, the Műcsarnok,
photos by Capa, Titanicc – Modern Circus: Recirquel, Freak Fusion Cabaret –
Ballet: The Nutcracker – Concerts: classical and church music in the Matthias
Church and the Basilica – Dance: traditional and modern folk
36 ESSENTIALS
Transportation & Embassy listings
ALSO inside
2 Editor’s Letter
37 MY FAVoritE BUDAPEST…
40 where it’s at
on the cover
The ornate Matthias Church is
one of the must-sees of Budapest,
inside as well as out, especially
during Christmas time. It started
out in the 13th century as a
simple parish church for the
German population of the newly
established city of Buda and was,
over the centuries, reconstructed
many times. Its current neo-Gothic
appearance dates from 1896.
Feature
8 SACRED BUILDINGS
Places of worship worth a view
20
mapS
pages 38-39
Central Budapest
and beyond
www.wheretraveler.com 1

WELCOME | Editor’s Letter
So this is
Christmas
The festive season is upon us
again with twinkling stars and
candlelights, the smell of pine
and the warm glow of wood
fires and burning stoves, and
Christmas carols wherever you go.
Budapest is at its winter’s best,
with Christmas markets and New Year’s Eve parties in addition to
high quality exhibitions and exciting shows. The city and its surrounding hills offer ample
opportunity to go ice skating or, when it has snowed, enjoy sledding or have wonderful winter walks. As
this traditionally is also a time for peaceful contemplation and religious celebration, you might want to visit
some of the wonderful places of worship in the city that are mentioned in our feature article on page 8.
Happy Holidays and Happy New Year.
HENK HIRS
Editor in Chief
Where Budapest
Your traveling companion since 1936®
where®
magazine
BUDAPEST AffiliATE
publisher
Emese Juhász
CREATIVE
Editor in chief
Henk Hirs
Art Director
Balázs Milléte
DEPUTY Editor
Nóra Somogyi
Contributing writer
Runa Hellinga
advertising
SALES & office manager
Viktória Novák
GG | MVP
Chairman
William S. Morris III
President & CEO
William S. Morris IV
EXECUTIVE
President
Donna W. Kessler
vice president
Angela E. Allen
MANAging dirECTor EUROPE
Chris Manning
CreatiVE
Chief CrEATive Officer
Haines Wilkerson
design DirECTor
Jane Frey
creative coordinator
Beverly Mandelblatt
CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR
Geoff Kohl
Where BUDAPEST
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Phone/Fax: (+36 1) 781 9483
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ISSN 1217-5714
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MAGYAR SZÁLLODAPORTÁSOK
„ARANYKULCS” EGYESÜLETE MEMBERS OF
THE U.I.C.H. LES CLEFS D‘OR ORGANISATION
wheretraveler.com
2 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I DECEMBER 2013 2017

HOT DATES | DECEMBER
SATURDAY
24
TILL SATURDAY
3
FILM FESTIVAL
↔ With a broad line-up of the latest
movies depicting today’s Jewish
culture and heritage, Budapest Jewish and
Israeli Film Festival is the largest event of its kind in Central and Eastern
Europe. This year’s program features a fresh selection of recent pictures
from France, the United States, Israel, Germany, Russia and Hungary.
www.zsifi.org/6th-budapest-jewish-and-israeli-film-festival
MONDAY
5
MIKULÁS
→ Mikulás is the Hungarian version
of Saint Nicholas, who celebrates his
December 6 birthday on the evening before by
filling children’s boots, shoes or socks placed
on or near the window sill with small treats like
sweets, chocolate, candy and nuts. Hungarian
parents usually also give their children small
presents and surprises, including a virgács, a
tiny broom often painted gold.
SATURDAY
CHRISTMAS EVE
▲ Hungarians celebrate Christmas on the
eve before Christmas Day, so December 24,
with presents from “Little Jesus” around the
Christmas tree. The tree is decorated on
that same evening (and not before), among
others with “parlor candy” (szaloncukor), a
type of sweets made of fondant, covered by
chocolate and wrapped in shiny colored foil.
Family dinner traditionally includes stuffed
cabbage as well as carp, either fried or in a
soup, including heads and tails, and with lots
of paprika. Most shops, markets and even
many restaurants close sometime in the
afternoon to allow staff to go home.
16
KODÁLY
135
↔ On the
135th birthday of Zoltán
Kodály, some of the best
choirs in Hungary perform
a special selection of the
finest and most fascinating
a cappella choral works of this
famous Hungarian composer in the
beautiful Art Nouveau Grand Hall of the
Music Academy. Liszt Academy – Listing p.11, www.zeneakademia.hu
SUNDAY
31
NEW
YEAR’S
EVE
→ At midnight, Hungarians
welcome the New Year with
champagne, singing the
national anthem, and some
fireworks over the river.
Traditionally, Hungarians eat
stuffed cabbage that evening,
while a plate of lentils the
next day is supposed to bring
prosperity in the year ahead.
There are street parties and
concerts on several main
squares in the center of Pest.
www.wheretraveler.com 3

DECEMBER
WHERE NOW
The month’s top entertainment, exhibits, attractions, and more
BALLET
CHRISTMAS PUPPETS
● The Nutcracker by the Russian composer Tchaikovsky is
a fairy tale about a doll that comes alive around a Christmas
tree. It is a very popular ballet with grown-ups and children
alike in the days around Christmas. The enchanting fairy
tale features an army of gingerbread soldiers, the King of
Mice, and the Land of Sweets ruled by the Sugar Plum
Fairy. You can choose from performances in the Palace of
Arts (Dec 23 and 27) and the Erkel Theater (almost daily).
See Listings p.11-12 – www.mupa.hu , www.opera.hu
photo: Szilvia Csibi
4 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I DECEMBER 2013 2017

EXHIBITION
WITHIN FRAMES
↔ This exhibit gives an overview of the
art of the sixties in Hungary, when the
communist power classified cultural
works according to the notorious
system of the “Three Ts,” standing for the
Hungarian words Tiltott, Tűrt, Támogatott,
meaning “Forbidden”, “Tolerated”
and “Supported.” These were years
of political consolidation in Hungary,
bracketed by the major historic events of
the 1956 Revolution in Hungary and the
Prague Spring of 1968; interesting times
bringing forth interesting art. Hungarian
National Gallery – Listing p.14, www.mng.
EXHIBITION
TARKOVSKY AND MORE
→ The Art Gallery (Műcsarnok) has several
smaller exhibitions. One tells the story
of how film director Andrei Tarkovsky’s
movie “The mirror” was created with the
use of old family photographs (till Dec
10). A second one is a tribute to the Toldi
Photo Gallery which operated during two
short periods in communist times, giving
space to artists critical of the regime.
There are also exhibits with the the
work of painters János Blaskó and Miklós
Jakobovits (from Dec 6). Műcsarnok – Listing
p.14, www.mucsarnok.hu
MODERN CIRCUS
CONCERTS
SHOWS
FREAK FUSION
Trafó is the main venue for modern
theater, with a program full of
thought-provoking performances.
Hungarian new circus company Freak
Fusion is taming gravity in its new
piece. The juggling tools fall sooner
or later, no matter how much training
the acrobats survive. The
tightrope walker has to
return to the ground,
he cannot remain
in the air – gravity
always calls him. Dec
2, 8pm, Trafó – Listing
p.13, www.trafo.hu
MATTHIAS CHURCH
The beautiful Matthias Church on
Castle Hill is also a venue for concerts
by various ensembles, from well-known
Hungarian choirs to the Hungarian
Virtuosi Chamber Orchestra and the
Duna String Orchestra. They perform
classical works in the breathtaking
surroundings of the splendid church
where King Matthias was
married and Sissi was
crowned Hungarian
queen. Dec 2, 9, 15,
16, 27 and 30, 8pm –
Listing p.11, www.eng.
concertbudapest.com
FOLK DANCES
The traditional Hungarian folk music
and authentic dances that inspired
so many classical composers such as
Franz Liszt, Johannes Brahms, Zoltán
Kodály, and Béla Bartók are usually
performed daily by one of the three
main folklore ensembles. This month,
only the Rajkó Folk Ensemble and
Orchestra does shows nce a week.
They take place in the Danube Palace
in Pest (near the Basilika). Each concert
consists of two 40-45 minute acts with
an intermission. Dec 2, 98, 16, 23, 25, 26,
28 and 29, Danube Palace – Pest V, Zrínyi
u. 5. Map C4
www.wheretraveler.com 5

WHERE NOW
CIRCUS
MODERN MAGIC
→ The Palace of Arts always has a highquality
program of classical and jazz
concerts, dance and ballet, opera and
theater. Among them are the shows of
the Hungarian modern circus “Recirquel,”
internationally acclaimed for their
magical acrobatics, enchanting play with
light and color, and spectacular effects.
This month they play “The Naked Clown,”
(Dec 8,9 and 10) which invites you to a
ball where the masks come off, “Night
Circus,” the story of the rebirth of classical
circus. (Dec 13, 14, 15, 20, 21 and 31) 7pm,
Palace of Arts – Listing p.12, www.mupa.hu
EXHIBIT
TITANIC
↔ This traveling exhibition has
hundreds of original objects –
including furniture, clothes,
and jewelry – from the worldfamous
cruise ship that was
supposed to be unsinkable.
But still, on its maiden voyage
in April 1912, it collided
with an iceberg sand went
down with most of its 1,500
passengers. It’s a chilling, but
fascinating story. Komplex, Pest
VI, Király utca 26, T: (+36 1) 666
3100 www.titanickiallitas.hu
EXHIBIT
PEACE ON EARTH!
▲ Gyula Várnai’s project
“Peace on Earth!” was
exhibited at the Hungarian
Pavilion of this year’s Venice
Biennale. Várnai’s work is based
on the concept that our faith
in the future is relative. As the
example of the now empty
slogans that were used by
the regime in the Cold War
shows, the validity of ideas
changes with time. Ludwig
Museum – Listing p.14, www.
ludwigmuseum.hu
CONCERTS EXHIBITS
SHOWS CONCERT
HOLY MUSIC
St. Stephen’s Basilica also has
impressive acoustics and a worldfamous
historic pipe organ. It
organizes regular Cathedral Organ
Concerts on Mondays at 5 pm
(with the exception of Dec 25)
and on Fridays at 7 pm (with the
exception of Dec 8). In addition
to the organists of the Basilica,
these concerts feature singers and
musicians who will present famous
organ works and church arias.
On Friday Dec 22, there will be a
special performance of Händel’s
“Messiah.” Listing p.12, www.
organconcert.hu
MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY
Budapest’s major photo museum
is named after Hungarian-born
photographer Robert Capa. It
organizes all sorts of exhibitions,
currently, one on Capa’s life and
work. Nearby in the same street
is the smaller Mai Manó photo
museum, once the home and
studio of a famous photographer
of the Habsburg court with
that name. It organizes small
temporary exhibits (currently “The
secret passion of Vivian Meyer”)
and has a wonderful bookshop.
Listing p. 14, www.capacenter.hu,
www.maimano.hu
HILARIOUS
The ExperiDance Company
performs magical music shows
in which they fuse traditional
Hungarian folk dance with modern
styles and motifs. “Fergeteges”
(Hilarious) is but one example: a
story about Empress Elisabeth
(Sissi), Hungarian Count
Andrássy and a beautiful
Gypsy girl, but with
an entirely new
interpretation. Dec
16, 3pm and 7pm,
RAM Colosseum –
Listing p.12, www.
experidance.hu
CHRISTMAS MUSIC
Prize winning singers and
musicians of the Hungarian
Symphonia Fantasia group
perform Christmas music by
composers like Händel, Bizet, and
Schubert. The concert will be
directed by the Liszt Music
Academy conductor
Gergely Ménesi and
takes place in the
extraordinary balland
concert hall of
the Vigadó in Pest.
Dec 17, 7:30pm, Pesti
Vigadó – Listing p.12,
www.vigado.hu
photo: top LEFT — Eszter Gordon
6 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I DECEMBER 2013 2017

Castle Hill
SPONSORED ARTICLE
One of the must-see areas of the Hungarian capital is Castle Hill, which became the town of Buda after the
Mongol invasion of 1241. It’s most formidable building is the Buda Palace, once the seat of Hungarian Kings
and Habsburg Emperors. The current green-domed version – housing several museums with interesting
exhibitions – is a post-1945 reconstruction. But down below are the remnants of several older palaces, which you
can see for yourself if you go into the lower floors of the Budapest History Museum (in the courtyard at the back).
Still, for most people the major attraction of Castle Hill is the Matthias church, which is abundantly decorated
inside and out. The current neo-Gothic church was constructed at the end of the 19th century in an effort to build
a church as it could have stood when King Matthias married there in the late 15th century (though nobody knows
what that church looked like exactly). The romantic Fisherman’s Bastion at its foot offers a wonderful view over the
Danube and Pest.
The rest of Castle Hill is dotted with cozy little streets with colorful facades, and beautiful porticos and inner
courtyards. There are a multitude of restaurants, cafés, and art galleries. The outer ramparts and promenades offer
more views over the Buda hills beyond.
At the foot of the western wall of Castle Hill, you’ll find the entrance to the Hospital in the Rock, which gives a
unique glimpse into the system of caves and tunnels below. And you might want to see the changing of the guard
in front of the presidential palace (besides the funicular train station), daily at noon.
www.wheretraveler.com 7

Sacred
Sanctuaries
PLACES OF WORSHIP WORTH A VIEW / BY heNK HIRS
Throughout its history, the Hungarian kingdom was always home to many ethnic groups and religions, with
everyone building their own sacred sanctuaries.
1
8 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I DECEMBER 2013 2017

1. CATHOLIC SPLENDOUR
The neo-baroque St. Stephen’s
Cathedral, full of marble and gold leaf,
is the most majestic of the catholic
churches. In a side chapel, it exhibits
the holy right hand of King and
Saint Stephan. Much more modest
in appearance is the Inner City Paris
Church close to the Danube, built on
top of the remains of a Christian chapel
from Roman times. (Pest V, Szent István
tér 1, Map D4 - Pest V, Március 15. tér 2,
Map D6).
2
2. SUPERB SYNAGOGUES
The main synagogue is the biggest in
Europe, built in the 1850s in a superb
fusion of Moorish and Byzantine styles.
The building has several characteristics
that are normally not part of a
synagogue but are reminiscent of a
Christian church such as two towers,
a pipe organ, and an alter-like bema
(the platform from where the Torah is
read). This reflects the determination
of Jewish Hungarians to integrate into
mainstream society. A few streets away
stands the Orthodox synagogue, a
remarkable late-Art Nouveau building
from 1913. Pest VII, Dohány u. 2. and
Kazinczy u. 29, Map E5
3
3. COLORFUL AND ORNATE
The colorful and ornate Matthias
Church is arguably the most beautiful of
today’s catholic churches in Budapest.
It started out in the 13th century as a
simple parish church for the German
population of the newly established city
of Buda but was, over the centuries,
reconstructed many times. It is a must
see, inside as well as out. Buda I, Szent
Háromság tér, Map H4
4
4. PROTESTANT, ORTHODOX, MUSLIM
The Calvinist Church of Buda, just along
the river, is from 1896 and has a very
distinctive 62-meter-high tower and
a pyramidal roof covered by multicolored
Zsolnay tiles. The Hungarian
Orthodox Church in Pest, also near the
river, has an impressive iconostasis- I
would explain what this word means,
while one of the spires, destroyed
in World War ii, was restored in a
modern style, giving the building its
distinctive outer appearance. The Gül
Baba mausoleum and tomb on Rose
Hill in Buda is one of the few Islamic
sanctuaries in Hungary. Gül Baba is
Turkish for “Father of Roses,” the name
of the Ottoman ascetic and poet who
was buried here. Buda I, Szilágyi Dezső
tér , Map B4 - Pest V, Petőfi tér 2, Map
D6 - Buda II, Mecset u.14, Map B2
www.wheretraveler.com 9

THE GUIDE
COFFEE HOUSE CHARM
● Budapest has a tradition of grand old coffee houses (kávéház) dating back to the late 1800s and early
1900s. These were places where gentry and bourgeois rubbed shoulders with artists, writers and newspaper
journalists (some of whom wrote their books and articles there). The communists came to see the places
as dens of latent dissent, so most were closed. But luckily, today, there are hundreds again, from cozy
neighborhood hang-outs and comfy modern chains to beautifully restored old-world grand cafés like August,
the Bedő House (pictured), Centrál, Gerbeaud, New York, and the Opera Café. See our Listings on p.24.
10 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I DECEMBER 2013 2017

Hungarian
Jazz
A concert by the Dresch Quartet
Saxophone player Mihály Dresch is “one
of the most influential nurturers of a
fertile fusion between Hungarian folk
music and jazz,” according to music critic
John Fordham from “The Guardian.” So it
is no exaggeration to say that his “Dresch
Quartet” is one of the most interesting
music groups on the current Budapest
scene and their performance is sure to come
up with some inspired and unexpected
pieces of modern music. If you book a table,
you can have a dinner and a drink while
listening to the concert in the Opus Jazz
Club of the Budapest Music Center, which
offers a diverse music program on other
evenings, as well. Dec 21, 9 pm, BMC – Listing
on this page, www.bmc.hu
ENTERTAINMENT
photo: Bálint Hrotkó
Performance Venues
A38 SHIP Rock the boat nightly at one of Budapest’s
top music and dance venues, docked on
the Danube. Buda XI, moored south of Petőfi
Bridge. T: (+36 1) 464 3940, www.a38.hu Map E8
artus Avant-garde theater and dance performances
by the Gábor Goda Company, along
with art exhibitions and concerts. Buda XI, Sztregova
u. 7. T: (+36 30) 820 3865, www.artus.hu
átrium THEATER A cultural presentation space
offering English-language theater performances,
dance shows, live concerts. Buda II, Margit
krt. 55. T: (+36 1) 317 9338, www.atriumfilmszinhaz.hu
Map A3
BUDAPEST CongrESS CEnter Extensive arena
welcoming crowd-drawing headliners. Buda XII,
Jagelló út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 372 5400, www.bcc.hu
budapest music CEnter This multifunctional
facility encompasses a comprehensive music
library, a record label, and multiple venues that
showcase established and promising muscians.
Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.
bmc.hu Map E7
Cotton clUB Classy 1920s-style jazz and lounge
club. Entertainment venues and special events
include live music and tasty cocktails. Pest VI,
Jókai u. 26. T: (+36 30) 184 1128 , www.cottonhousebudapest.hu
Map E3
FONÓ MUSIC HALL World music and jazz performed
on several stages. Closed on Sundays. Buda XI,
Sztregova u. 3. T: (+36 1) 206 5300, www.fono.hu
JAM PUB A popular joint in the basement of
Mammut II shopping center, hosting concerts
in every genre. Closed on Sundays. Buda II,
Lövőház u. 1-3. T: (+36 1) 345 8301, Map A3
HUNGEXPO One-stop shop for events, conferences,
conventions and exhibitions. Pest X,
Albertirsai út 10. T: (+36 1) 263 6000, www.
hungexpo.hu
klebelsberg CUltural CEnter Tucked into
the serene Buda hills, his cultural locale hosts
modern and folk dancing, classical theater and
contemporary arts. Buda II, Templom u. 2-10. T:
(+36 1) 392 0860, www.kulturkuria.hu
liszt ACADEmy of music Top-notch music
performances at this Art Nouveau music university
founded by its namesake composer. It
has a splendid main concert hall and a smaller
hall for chamber music performances. Guided
tours every day at 1:30pm. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc
tér 8. T: (+36 1) 462 4600, www.lisztacademy.hu
Map E4
madách thEATEr A grand modern playhouse
featuring cool wall paintings and elaborate
productions of hit musicals like Cats and Mary
Poppins. English subtitles provided for some
shows. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 29-33. T: (+36 1) 478
2041, www.madachszinhaz.hu Map F4
Margaret island open-air STAge This
beautiful amphitheater is surrounded by the
parkland of the biggest island in the Danube,
making it a splendid summertime venue.
Margaret Island, under the Water Tower (accessible
by bus 26 from Nyugati Square). www.
szabadter.hu Map D0
Matthias church Located on Castle Hill near
the Fisherman’s Bastion, this impressive church
is a must-see sight for tourists with its colorful
ceramic tiled roof, and richly decorated interior.
It also organizes regular concerts of classical
and church music. Buda I, Szentháromság tér.
www.matyas-templom.hu Map B4
NEW YEaR’s eve
aT Pesti Vigadó
18.00 GUIDED TOUR IN ENGLISH
19.30 SWING
SHOW
BY SWING À LA DJANGO
FEAT. MYRTILL MICHELLER
B OOK YOUR TICKET NOW!
ART IS IN CENTRE
OPEN EVERY DAY 10.00–19.00 | WWW.VIGADO.HU
1051 BUDAPEST, VIGADÓ SQUARE 2.
www.wheretraveler.com 11

ENTERTAINMENT
Star Screening
The Uránia Film Theater is a wonderful cinema in Moorish Art Nouveau style that also
offers live HD broadcasts of major international operas and theaters in global cities
(New York, London, Paris, Moscow), documentaries from international museums (Van
Gogh, Tate, Rijksmuseum), and screenings of famous pop concerts of the past 50
years. One of this month’s highlights, live from The Old Vic theater in London, is the
1966 absurdist comedy by Tom Stoppard, “Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are dead,”
about the exploits of two minor characters in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Dec 12, 7pm,
Uránia Film Theater – Pest VIII, Rákóczi út 21., Map E5, www.urania-nf.hu/hd_broadcasts
MILLENÁRIS Multiple venues in Buda’s Millenáris
Park offer frequent exhibitions, concerts, fairs,
and special events. Buda II, Kis Rókus u. 16-20. T:
(+36 1) 336 4000, www.millenaris.hu Map A2
mom cultural CEnter A modern venue by a
Buda park offering concert, theater and dance
performances, along with exhibits and openair
cinema (during summer). Adjacent is a big
indoor sports hall where concerts are being
staged as well. Buda XII, Csörsz u. 14-18. T:
(+36 1) 319 9854, www.momkult.hu and www.
momsport.hu Map A6
ÓBUDAI TÁRSASKÖR Opulent performance hall
that hosts classical and ragtime concerts. Buda
III, Kiskorona u. 7. T: (+36 1) 250 0288, www.
obudaitarsaskor.hu
ORFEUM This underground evening cabaret
serves up tasty cocktails and classy entertainment,
from swing and jazz shows to Frank
Sinatra tributes and vaudeville shows. Closed
on Mondays. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36
1) 336 00 56, www.orfeumclub.hu Map F4
PALACE of ARTS A huge performance center
with a very impressive monthly line-up featuring
the best of the best Hungarian and international
artists. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1, at
the tram 2 Millenniumi Kulturális Központ stop.
T: (+36 1) 555 3000, www.mupa.hu Map F9
PAPP LÁSZLÓ SPORTARÉNA Hungary’s largest
indoor event venue, hosting major international
touring concerts and Hungarian musical
legends. Pest XIV, Stéfania út 2, at the M2 metro
Stadionok stop. T: (+36 1) 422 2600, www.
budapestarena.hu
Pesti VigADÓ Restored to its former glory that
featured many famous artists like Ferenc Liszt
or Claude Debussy, the building now houses
exhibits and all kinds of shows, concerts and
performances (mostly in Hungarian). Pest V,
Vigadó tér 2. www.vigado.hu Map C5
PÓTKULCS Relaxed, artsy venue with tunes in
many genres, including swing and jazz. Pest
VI, Csengery u. 65/B. T: (+36 1) 269 1050, www.
potkulcs.hu Map E3
PUSKÁS FERENC STADion Used for Hungarian
soccer matches, this giant outdoor arena
occasionally hosts large-scale concerts by
the world’s most popular superstars. Pest XIV,
Istvánmezei út 3-5, at the M2 Stadionok metro
stop. www.puskasferencstadion.com
RAM COLOSSEUM An entertainment venue with
popular Hungarian and international modern
folk dance and music shows, creating real
theatrical experiences. Pest XIII, Kárpát u. 23-25.
T: (+36 1) 222 5253, www.ramcolosseum.com or
www.experidance.hu Map D1
royal PAlace of gÖDÖllő Classical concerts,
historic festivals and palace tours at the former
residence of Empress Elizabeth, located just
outside of Budapest. Gödöllő 2100, Grassalkovich
Palace. T: (+36 28) 410 124, www.
kiralyikastely.hu
st. STEPhen’s BASilica This Neo-Renaissance
church also offers regular organ and classical
music concerts in an ethereal surrounding.
Up-to-date program on the website. Pest V,
Szent István tér 1, T: (+36 20) 823 2095, www.
organconcert.hu Map D4
photo: manuel harlan
12 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

ENTERTAINMENT
ENTERTAINMENT
SYMA SPORT AND EVENT CENTER Adjacent to
the city’s Sportaréna, this venue hosts concerts,
athletic events, and fairs. Pest XIV, Dózsa György
út 1. T: (+36 1) 460 1100, www.syma.hu
thália thEATEr This playhouse at “Budapest’s
Broadway” sometimes hosts live concerts and
dance performances. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 22-
24. T: (+36 1) 331 0500, www.thalia.hu Map E4
TRAFÓ hoUSE of CONTEMPORARY ARTS The
theatre is pretty small, but this is Budapest’s
centerpoint of contemporary dance, theatre
and modern circus performances, where very
casual clothing is the norm. Pest IX, Liliom u. 41.
T: (+36 1) 215 1600, www.trafo.hu Map F7
VÍGSZÍnház Late-19th-century theatre building
on the city’s grand boulevard, hosting comedy
shows and an occasional English concert or
performance. Pest XIII, Szent István krt. 14. T:
(+36 1) 329 2340, www.vigszinhaz.hu Map D2
Opera & Operetta
ERKEL THEATER This modern musical theater
is part of the State Opera and strives to make
opera and ballet performances accessible for a
wider public. Pest VIII, II. János Pál pápa tér 30, T:
(+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map G5
OPERETTA AND MUSICAL THEATER Modernized
classic performances sung in Hungarian,
but subtitled in either English or German. Pest
VI, Nagymező u. 17. T: (+36 1) 312 4866, www.
operettszinhaz.hu Map E4
Music- Wine
Gala concert of the
100 Member Gipsy Orchestra
30 December, 2017
Budapest Congress Center
1124 Budapest, Jagelló str 1–3.
+36-30-921-5701 | www.argosart.hu
Tickets: www.jegy.hu | www.jegymester.hu
www.wheretraveler.com 13

ART & MUSEUMS
Tumultuous
Times
An overview of Hungarian painting
The Hungarian National Gallery in the Buda Palace
is the place to go if you’re interested in Hungarian
painting through the centuries. There are many works
by internationally well-known artists, such as impressionist
Rippl-Rónai, expressionist Tivadar Csontváry (“a genius”
according to Picasso), and avant-garde artist from the
interwar period Béla Uitz. But they had many colleagues
who did not make a name for themselves abroad, though
the quality of their work is high. Don’t forget to look at the
works of Mihály Munkácsy (born Michael von Lieb), either.
He was a 19th century genre-painter who’s dark and somber
pictures are considered masterpieces of national Hungarian
painting. National Gallery - Listing on this page, www.mng.hu
Art Museums
APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Closed for renovation.
Historic design exhibitions inside one of Budapest’s
Art Nouveau architectural gems, notable
for its colorfully tiled roof. Open Tue-Sun. Pest
IX, Üllői út 33-37. T: (+36 1) 456 5110, www.imm.
hu Map F7
CAPA CENTER Honoring the Hungarian-born
maverick photographer Robert Capa, this center
for photography offers illuminating displays.
Pest VI, Nagymező u. 8. T: (+36 1) 413 1310, Open
Mon-Sun, www.capacenter.hu Map E4
EAST ASIAn ART MUSEUM FERENC hoPP Fascinating
artifacts from throughout the Orient
displayed in a grand mansion. Open Wed-Sun.
Pest VI, Andrássy út 103. Map F3
fine arts mUSEUm Closed for renovation. A
highlight selection of the Old Masters, Spanish
masterpieces, French Impressionists, and 19thcentury
Hungarian works is on show in the
Hungarian National Gallery in Buda Castle (see
listing this page). Pest XIV, Heroes’ Square. T:
(+36 1) 469 7100, www.mfab.hu Map G2
GYÖRGY ráTH MUSEUM A massive collection of
Asian art in a stunning 19th-century villa. Open
Wed-Sun. Pest VI, Városligeti fasor 12. T: (+36 1)
342 3916, www.imm.hu Map G3
KOGART hoUSE The museum gives home to
the Gábor Kovács Art Collection, covering
Hungarian art ranging from the beginning of
the 18th until the mid-20th century. Located in
a beautiful villa close to Heroes’ Square. Open
Mon-Fri. Pest VI, Andrássy út 112. T: (+36 1) 354
3820, www.kogart.hu Map F2
LUDWIG MUSEUM A permanent collection and
temporary exhibitions of contemporary works
by Hungarian and international artists (with
an emphasis on Central-European and Russian
artsts), located at the Palace of Arts. Open Tue-
Sun untill 8pm. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1. T:
(+36 1) 555 3444, www.lumu.hu Map F9
MAI MANÓ The Hungarian House of Photography,
showing the best contemporary local and
international snapshots. Open Mon-Fri 2pm-
7pm and Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Pest VI, Nagymező
u. 20. T: (+36 1) 473 2669, www.maimano.hu
Map E4
MŰCSARNOK Rotating contemporary exhibitions
of modern art and design in an ornate building.
Open Tue-Sun, closed on Mon and Thurs morning.
Pest XIV, Heroes’ Square. T: (+36 1) 460 7000,
www.mucsarnok.hu Map G2
NATIONAL GAllERY Various permanent exhibitions
of Hungarian fine art since the country’s
foundation, especially paintings from the 18th,
19th and 20th century. They also organize
many illuminating temporary exhibitions. Open
Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace, Szent György tér
2. T: (+36 1) 201 9082, www.mng.hu Map B5
Specialty Museums
AQUINCUM MUSEUM Ancient ruins from the
2,000-year-old capital of a Roman province.
Outdoor stone remains and a museum with
restored mosaics and wall paintings. Open Tue-
Sun. Buda III, Szentendrei út 135. T: (+36 1) 250
1650, www.aquincum.hu
ARANY SAS PHARMACY MUSEUM Buda’ s oldest
pharmacy, the “Golden Eagle,” is recreated in
the Castle District. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I, Apród
u. 1-3. T: (+36 1) 375-9772, www.semmelweis.
museum.hu Map B5
army headquarter After seven decades, and
many unrealized renovation plans, this former
army headquarter is open to the public again,
hosting various exhibits and cultural events.
Buda I, Dísz tér 17. Map B4
BÉLA BARTÓK MEmoriAL hoUSE The house
where the composer lived before he emigrated
from Hungary to the US, is now a museum,
with original furniture and Bartók’s folk-art
collection, photos, and letters. Open Tue-Sat.
Buda II, Csalán út 29. T: (+36 1) 394 2100, www.
bartokmuseum.hu
castle mUSEUm Permanent exhibition about
the history of Budapest in the fascinating
setting of endless cellars and several floors of
the current palace and its predecessors. Open
Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace (Wing E). T: (+36 1)
487 8800, www.btm.hu Map B5
ETHNOGRAPHy museum Exhibitions on
Hungarian lifestyles through history, including
clothes and handicrafts, in a beautifull neo-
Renaissance palace that was once the building
of the highest court. Open Tue-Sun. Pest V,
Kossuth Lajos tér 12. T: (+36 1) 473 2400, www.
neprajz.hu Map C3
HOLOCAUST MEmoriAL CENTER Permanent
exhibition on the Hungarian Holocaust and
the way that lead there. Timely and insightful
temporary exhibits on social issues. Pest IX,
Páva u. 39. Open Tue-Sun. T: (+36 1) 455 3333,
www.hdke.hu Map F7
HOSPITAL in THE roCK A WWII-era medical
facility, later a secret nuclear bunker, found in
the tunnels and caves beneath Castle Hill. A
fascinating one-hour tour, with a short documentairy
film as introduction and stories about
Hungary’s 20th century history. Open Mon-Sun.
Buda I, Lovas u. 4/C. T: (+36 70) 701 0101, www.
sziklakorhaz.eu Map A4
HOUSE OF TError MUSEUM Infamous as the
headquarters for fascists in the 1940s and then
the communist secret service, this building is
now a memorial museum. Open Tue-Sun. Pest
VI, Andrássy út 60. T: (+36 1) 374 2600, www.
terrorhaza.hu Map E3
KASSÁK MUSEUM Lajos Kassákwas among the
first genuine working class writers in the beginning
of the 20th century. Among others, the
museum shows graphics, prints, periodicals,
drawings, etc. connected to his work. Buda
III, Szentlélek tér 6, www.kassakmuzeum.hu
Not on map
14 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

ART & MUSEUMS
KISCELLI MUSEUM Paintings, sculptures, drawings,
coins, and medals in a regal estate. Open
Tue-Fri. Buda III, Kiscelli u. 108. T: (+36 1) 250
0304 www.kiscellimuzeum.hu
LISZT FERENC MUSEUM The house where the
composer used to live (1881-1886) when in
Budapest is a small museum with original
furniture, musical instruments, memorabilia,
transcripts etc. There is also a small concert
hall, part of the original Academy of Music,
which he founded. Open Mon-Sat, Buda VI,
Vörösmarty u. 35, T: (+36 1) 413 0440 Map E3
MIKSA RÓTH MEmoriAL hoUSE The former
home of this Hungarian stained-glass master,
with some of his furniture and hisworks. The
xhibition is mainly in Hungarian., though. Pest
VII, Nefelejcs u. 26. T: (+36 1) 341 6789 www.
rothmuzeum.hu Map G4
NATIONAL MUSEUM The history of Hungary,
from the nation’s foundation to today (mostly
Hungarian). A one-hour English tour on Thursdays
at 11am, registration required. Open Tue-
Sun. Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 338
2122, www.mnm.hu Map E6
NATURAL hiSTORY MUSEUM An educational
complex that features an aquarium, a whale
skeleton, fossils, and stuffed animals (mostly
Hungarian only). Open Wed-Sun. Pest VIII,
Ludovika tér 2-6. T: (+36 1) 210 1085, www.
nhmus.hu Map G7
RAILWAY MUSEUM An open-air museum on a
former train-yard with an amazing collection of
vintage engines and other objects. Visitors can
also ride several models of rail vehicles. Easily
reachable from Nyugati and Keleti Stations.
Open Apr-Nov (Mon closed). Pest XIV, Tatai út
95. T: (+36 1) 450 1497, www.vasuttortenetipark.
hu/en
SEMMELWEIS MUSEUM The history of Western
medicine, with special emphasis on Hungary
and the work of Ignác Semmelweis, the Hungarian
doctor who taught his colleagues to ...
wash their hands. Open Tue-Sun, Buda I, Apród
utca 1-3. T: (+ 36 1) 375 3533, www.semmelweis.
museum.hu, Map C5
STATUE PARK Huge statues of Marx, Lenin, and
other communist-era figures. Open daily 10amdusk.
Direct buses leave Deák tér daily from
11am. Buda XXII, Balatoni út/Szabadkai u. T: (+36
1) 424 7500, www.mementopark.hu
SZABÓ MArziPAN MUSEUM A playful gallery of
all things marzipan, including historical icons
and Disney characters. Open daily. Buda I,
Hess András tér 1-3. T: (+36 1) 669 6861, www.
szabomarcipan.hu Map B4
VARGA imrE MUSEUM Original statues as well as
some copies by the most successful and internationally
renowned contemporary Hungarian
sculptor. Buda III, Laktanya utca 7, (Óbuda),
www.budapestgaleria.hu Off Map
VÁRKERT BAZAAR At the foot of Buda Castle,
these neo-Renaissance palaces house several
permanent and temporary exhibitions including
the Hungaricon (objects from or by famous
Hungarian personalities), and a wooden
model of Buda. In the gardens are two festival
grounds. Buda I, Miklós Ybl tér. T: (+36 1) 225
0310, www.varkertbazar.hu Map C5
VASARLY MUSEUM Hidden away in Old Buda
(Óbuda), this museum is dedicated to one of
the major Hungarian avant-garde artists from
the 20th century. Victor Vasarély was born in
Hungary, lived and worked most of his life in
Paris, and is considered the grandfather of the
op-art movement of the 1950s. Buda III, Szentlélek
tér 6, www.vasarely.hu Off Map
Art Galleries
ACB GAllERY Leading contemporary Hungarian
artworks. Open Tue-Fri 2pm-6pm. Pest VI, Király u.
76. T: (+36 1) 413 7608, www.acbgaleria.hu Map F3
ARi kupsus gallery This unconventional gallery
hosts ten contemporary shows a year featuring
a diverse blend of local and international artists.
Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor u. 23/B. T: (+36 20) 322
0334, www.arikupsusgallery.com Map F6
chimera proJECT This art incubator is showcasing
curated, thematic exhibitions about relevant
artistic and social topics. Open Tue-Fri 3pm-6pm
or upon appointment. Pest VII, Klauzál tér 5.
www.chimera-project.com Map E5
DEÁK ErikA GALÉRIA Cutting-edge showcase
of young Magyar artists, many in new media.
Open Wed-Fri noon-6pm and Sat 11am-4pm.
Pest VI, Mozsár u. 1. T: (+36 1) 201 3740, www.
deakgaleria.hu Map E4
Design TErminál This former bus station in
the heart of downtown is now a cutting-edge
viewing space for modern artwork and aesthetic
innovation. Pest V, Erzsébet tér 13. www.
designterminal.hu Map D5
ERNST GAllERY Showcasing venerable Hungarian
and international fine arts, antiques, paintings,
film posters, and more in two locations.
Its aim is to introduce Hungarian painters to
the international context, namely to private
and public collections in Hungary and abroad.
www.ernstgaleria.hu Pest V, Irányi u. 27. T: (+36
1) 266 4016 Map D6
FAUR zsófia-ráDAY galéria One of the first
Hungarian private galleries after the change of
the regime, the gallery showcases Hungarian
contemporary fine art and photography. Open
Mon-Fri noon-6pm. Buda XI, Bartók Bela út 25.
T: (+36 1) 209 3635, www.galeriafaur.hu Map D8
INDA Since 2006, the Inda Gallery has dealt with
the works of contemporary artists as a for-profit
gallery. The gallery unites the expectations of
the trade of art and the aesthetic quality. The
exhibition room, located in the dynamically
developing new quarter of the downtown pedestrian
zone in Király Street. T: (+36 1) 413 1960.
Pest Király u. 34. www.indagaleria.hu Map E4
karton A sleek and modern viewing space
hosting regular art exhibitions in varied
mediums. Open Mon-Fri 1pm-6pm. Pest V,
Alkotmány u. 18. T: (+36 1) 427 0000, www.
karton.hu Map D3
www.wheretraveler.com 15

ART & MUSEUMS
a good place to view photography and new
media. Pest V, Magyar u. 26. T: (+36 20) 913 6291,
www.vintage.hu Map E6
VIrág JUDit This gallery, located in the antiques
street of downtown Pest, presents and sells
Zsolnay ceramics and high quality Hungarian
paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries as well
as organizing regular auctions, along with all sorts
of thematic exhibitions. Pest V, Falk Miksa u. 30. T:
(36 1) 312 2071, www.viragjuditgaleria.hu Map D2
X6 GAllERY A new sunlit viewing space for
intriguing photography that aims to ease the
process of becoming an art collector. Pest V,
Október 6. u. 21. T: (+36 1) 301 0833, www.x6gallery.com
Map D4
Westkunst - Ostkunst
The Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art, situated in a suitably modern building on
the banks of the Danube, focuses on modern Hungarian and other Eastern European
art in an international context. The permanent exhibition presents emphatic points
not only in a well-organized chronological order and along stylistic features, but also
by examining the characteristics, differences and artistic-cultural parallels between
Western and Eastern art. Listing p.14, www.ludwigmuseum.hu
KIESELBACH GAllERY Viewings and auctions of
high-quality classical Hungarian and international
paintings. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm.
Pest V, Szt. István krt. 5. T: (+36 1) 269 3148, www.
kieselbach.hu Map D2
KIsterem Representing local artists, Kisterem
hosts exhibitions that explore a wide variety
of art forms, including drawings, sculptures or
multi-textured models made out of everyday
materials. Open Tue-Fri 2pm–6pm. Pest,
Képíró u. 5.T: (+36 1) 267 0522, www.kisterem.
hu Map E6
KNOLL GALÉRIA As one of Pest’s first private
galleries after the fall of the Soviet Bloc, this
pioneering institution participated in developing
the independent art scene and cultivating
fresh Hungarian and foreign talent. Open
Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10. T: (+36 1) 267
3842, www.knollgaleria.hu Map E4
KOLLER GAllERY Elegantly situated in Budapest’s
Castle District, specializing in contemporary
etchings and graphics. Open daily 10am-
6pm. Buda I, Táncsics Mihály u. 5. T: (+36 1) 356
9208, www.kollergaleria.hu Map B4
MOLNÁR Ani GAllERY Artists of many generations
and mediums, with a preference for
experimental materials. Intriguing, high-quality
pieces in an intimate space. Open Tue-Fri
noon-6pm. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor u. 22. T: (+36
1) 327 0095, www.molnaranigaleria.hu Map E6
MORÓ ANTIK Gentlemen’s antique store with a
specialization in old guns, rapiers, and sophisticated
canes. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat
10am-1pm. Pest V, Falk Miksa u. 13. T: (+36 1) 311
0814, www.moroantik.hu Map C3
NAGYHÁZI GALLERY AND AUCTion hoUSE One
of the oldest local antiques shop and auction
house, offering furniture, paintings, lamps and
more. Pest V, Balaton u. 8. T: (+36 1) 475 6000,
www.nagyhazi.hu Map D2
NESSIM GAllERY Sharply focused on Central
European contemporary photographers with
attention-grabbing rotating exhibitions. By appointment
only. Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 10. T: (+36
30) 593 6091, www.nessim.hu Map D4
VÁRFOK GAllERY One of Buda’s few contemporary
gallerie, showing works by renowned
and up-and-coming Hungarian artists. Open
Tue-Sat 11am-6pm. Buda I, Várfok u. 11. T: (+36 1)
213 5155, www.varfok-galeria.hu Map A3
VIltin Hungarian paintings, sculptures and photographies
are displayed in this contemporary
gallery. Open Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Vasvári Pál utca 1.
T: (+36 1) 787 5866, www.viltin.hu Map E4
VIntage Displaying both contemporary and
modern works by Hungarian artists, Vintage is
Szentendre Museums
& Galleries
Anna mArgit-ámos imre collECTion Notable
display of vibrant, surrealist paintings by
this artistic couple. Szentendre 2000, Bogdányi
út 10-12. T: (+36 26) 310 244, www.femuz.hu
barcsay collECTion Small color compositions
and study drawings in constructivist stylings by
Jenő Barcsay, a Szentendre homesteader. Open
Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000, Dumtsa
Jenő u. 10. T: (+36 20) 779 6659, www.pmmi.hu
bÉLA CZÓBEL MUSEUM SThis small museum is
showcasing wok of one of the most important
modernist painters of Hungary. He lived from
1883 till 1970 and introdcued the post-impressionist
style to the country. Szentendre 2000,
Templom tér 1, T: (+36 20) 779 6657.
dobos chocolATE mUSEUm Sweet exhibit
for famous confectioner József Dobos, who
created his delectable caramel-topped dessert
with chocolate cream layered between sponge
cake. Open Sat-Sun 10am-6pm or weekdays
with prior notice. Szentendre 2000, Bogdányi u.
2. T: (+36 26) 311 660
ERDÉSZ GAllERY Diverse blend of artwork by classic
and contemporary local artists with paintings,
graphic art, everyday objects, and sculptures.
Open Tue-Sun. Szentendre 2000, Bercsényi u. 4. T:
(+36 26) 317 925, www.galleryerdesz.hu
FERENCZY MUSEUM Károly Ferenczy is considered
the father of Hungarian impressionist
painting. He was on of the founders of the
Nagybánya artist colony and later lived and
worked here. Szentendre 2000, Kossuth Lajos u.
5, T: (+36 26) 920 990, www.femuz.hu
Margit kováCS mUSEUm Drawing from folk and
Byzantine influences, this famous 20th-century
ceramic sculptor reached high fame throughout
Hungary. Open daily 10am-6pm. Szentendre
2000, Vastagh György u. 1. T: (+36 20) 779 6659
Serbian orthodox CHURCHES There is an
exceptional orthodox church on Fő tér (closed
on Mondays, as well as an ornate, Baroque
18th-century orthodox church., which doubles
as ecclestial museum, along the small road
leading up (Pátriárka u. 5.).
SKANZEN EThnogrAPHIC MUSEUM An open-air
museum that captures the essence of rural
life in the 18th-20th centuries. Open Febr-Mar
Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Apr-Oct Tue-Sun 9am-5pm,
closed between Dec 14-Jan 31. Szentendre 2000,
Sztaravodai út. T: (+36 26) 502 537, www.sznm.hu
16 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

SHOPS & SERVICES
Generous Gifts
Local products for a good cause
Some Hungarian designers and shops offer beautiful
gifts that also serve a good cause.
AUTISTIC ART The unique drawings of people
living with autism are decorating the products of the
Autistic Art Foundation. The vividly patterned silk
scarves, decorative handkerchiefs, notebooks, wines,
chocolates and teas are available at the foundation’s
online web shop or can be purchased at a number of
shops. www.shop.autisticart.hu
PRINTA This design store offers sustainable, conscious
and eco-friendly products. Shirts, sweaters and dresses
are made of organic and sustainable resources. The shop
offers accessories, home decor, graphics and souvenirs.
See listing, p.20. www.printa.hu
MAACRAFT This is a social workshop, where people living
with intellectual disability and autism make unique pieces
with the help of designers. Organized by Miskolc Autistic
Foundation, the program is part therapy, part fundraising:
the sale of high quality handcrafted products benefits the
participants of the workshop. www.maacraft.org
Accessories
VARGA DESign Radiant jewelry designed by
metal mastermind Miklós Varga. Sophisticated
and artistic line contains irreproducible masterpieces
with cobweb-like interwoven metals
with expertly applied diamonds and pearls.
Pest V, Haris köz 6. T: (+36 1) 318 4089, www.
vargadesign.hu Map D5
Clothing
fashion STrEET The headquarters of top
world brands in the heart of the capital, Deák
Ferenc Street is also known as Fashion Street.
Preeminent houses of style include fashion
icons like Nanushka, United Colors of Benetton,
Hugo Boss, Süel, Massimo Dutti, Lloyd, Lacoste,
iStyle, Furla, and other premium collections.
Pest V, Deák Ferenc utca. www.fashionstreet.
hu Map D5
ANDA EMILIA Sleek clothing with simple lines
and rich fabrics from this young Hungarian designer.
Pest V, Galamb u. 4. T: (+36 30) 933 9746,
www.andaemi.com Map D5
BP CLOTHING This brand offers urban street wear
for men and women, boasting the initials BP
(standing for the capital city, Budapest). The collection
consists of hoodies, shirts and sweatshirts,
funky phone cases and other accessories. Pest
VII, Wesselényi utca 24. T: (+36 70) 409 5114, www.
bpshop.hu Map E5
JE SUIS BELLE Translating to “I am beautiful,” two
local fashionistas design graceful and playful
clothes for customers who live up to the
boutique’s name. Open Tue-Fri noon-7pm. Pest
V, Ferenciek tere 11. T: (+36 1) 951 1353, www.
jesuisbelle.hu Map D5-6
www.wheretraveler.com 17

SHOPS & SERVICES
Christmas
Cheer
M
ajor
squares and boulevards
in Budapest are decked
out with LED lights,
Christmas ornaments and other colorful
decorations, giving the city a profound
festive feel, especially after sundown
(which is already around 3:45pm). There
are Christmas trees and Nativity scenes
on various location in town, but the
“national” Christmas tree stands, almost
20 meters tall, in front of Parliament
at Kossuth Square. Shop windows in
major shopping streets like Váci Street,
Andrássy Boulevard (a Unesco world
heritage site) and “Fashion Street”
(Deák Street) are also abundantly
decorated, and the scent of roasted
chestnuts, cinnamon-flavoured
chimney cakes and mulled wine
fills the air.
DID YOU
KNOW?
Hungary is one of
the TOP15 safest
countries in the world
Source:
Global Peace
Index 2017
photo: Hungarian Tourism Agency
18 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

SHOPS & SERVICES
Christmas
Markets
SPONSORED ARTICLE
photo: Hungarian Tourism Agency
T
here are three major Christmas
markets, all in a walking distance
from each other in downtown Pest.
You can wander around to stock up on
hand-crafted gifts, jewelry, clay pottery,
aromatic candles and much more, or just
sit and enjoy the food, drink and sweets
on offer. There are also small podia with
music and family entertainment. These
markets are at Vörösmarty Square,
Hungary’s oldest open-air Christmas
market, at Városháza Park, between the
shopping streets and the Jewish Quarter,
and at St Stephan’s Square in front of
the Basilica, which also features a small
ice skating ring (a bigger ice skating
rink - with the romantic Vajdahunyad
Castle as a backdrop - is located in
the City Park). In the days leading up
to Christmas, the Central Market Hall,
especially the fish stalls in its cellars,
are also a spectacle worth visiting.
www.wheretraveler.com 19

SHOPS & SERVICES
PAMUT BUDAPEST These hand-made, fair trade
cotton tees are manufactured by US born Kat
Williford in Budapest. Pamut offers quality
garments printed with water-based paint for
an extra soft touch, and are inspired by the
Hungarian capital. Order online at www.pamutbudapest.com
PELOTE TAilor-MADE Everything custom-made;
ties and two-, three-, and four-piece suits. Pest
VI, Andrássy út 15. T: (+36 1) 411 1615, www.
pelote.com Map D4
TISZA A communist-era shoe brand revived with
style and still manufactured in Hungary. www.
tiszacipo.hu Pest VII, Károly krt. 1. T: (+36 1) 266
3055 Map E5; WestEnd City Center: Pest VI, Váci
út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 238 7505 Map E2
Design Shops
MAGMA This gorgeous gallery with two locations
offers vanguard interior designers’ creations in
mediums like glass, ceramics, and paper. Buda I,
Úri utca 26-28 Map B4 and Pest V, Petőfi S. u. 11.
T: (+36 1) 235 0277, www.magma.hu Map D5
Artful Masterpieces
Using the finest quality of valuable metals and pearls, Hungarian goldsmithartist
Miklós Varga has been creating unique handmade jewelry for decades. His
internationally noted workshop, Varga Design, provides completely matchless,
gleaming jewels characterized by their extraordinary “cobweb technique,” making
each item an inimitable work of art. Varga Design - Listing p.17.
mono ART & DESign A design shop, gallery
and viewing space – Mono merges fashion
with art. The shop offers clothing, accessories
and design objects from cutting-edge brands
and artists. Open Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat
10am-6pm. Pest V, Kossuth Lajos u. 12. www.
facebook.com/monoartanddesign Map D5
PRINTA An innovative showcase for Hungarian
and global artisans, featuring independent
fashions, eco-friendly accessories, and creative
gifts. Pest VII, Rumbach Sebestyén u. 10. T: (+36
30) 292 0329, www.printa.hu Map E5
KATTI zoÓB Modern tailoring by the acclaimed
Hungarian designer, who is a defining player on
the Hungarian fashion scene for more than 20
years. Pest V, Szent István krt. 17. T: (+36 30) 657
5794, www.kattizoob.hu Map D2
Manier Founded by Anikó Nemeth in 1992, the
magic ambience of this showroom combines
a passion for luxury fabrics, objects, and colors
with elements of fantasy. Pest VI, Hajós u. 12. T:
(+36 1) 354 1878, www.manier.hu Map E4
Mom park A unique shopping mall in the heart
of Buda, a place that combines the joy of
shopping with culinairy experiences in style. It
hosts several fashion,design and social events,
and offers a wide range of premium brands like
Michael Kors, Max& Co, Furla, Coccinelle, Nubu
and other. Buda XII, Alkotás u.53, T: (+36 1)487
5501, www.mompark.com Map A6
NANUSHKA London-trained Sándor Szandra’s
designs combine playful cuts and lush fabrics
with elegance and comfort. temporary store
Pest V, Váci u. 27, from Dec. 2017: Pest V, Bécsi
Street 3, T: (+36 70) 394 1954, www.nanushka.
hu Map D5
NÁRAY TAMÁS Streamlined prêt-à-porter fashions
and accessories by a Paris-trained Hungarian designer.
Closed on Sat, too. Pest VI, Hajós u. 17. T:
(+36 1) 266 2473, www.naraytamas.com Map E4
Markets
CENTRAL MArkET HAll Everything you might
want, from vegetables, meat, bread and
cheese to wild boar and fish (downstairs in the
cellars). Upstairs they sell Hungarian crafts and
souvenirs. Open Mon 6am-5pm, Tue-Fri 6am-
6pm and Sat 6am-3pm. Pest IX, Vámház krt. 1-3.
T: (+36 1) 366 3300, www.piaconline.hu Map E6
fény STrEET market Located near Széll Kálmán
tér, this market is a favorite of many expats living
in Budapest. It offers a wide variety of fresh
produce, pastries, baked goods, luxury foods
and a dedicated area for primary producers.
Buda II, Lövőház utca 12. www.fenyutcaipiac.
hu Map A3
Sale
10-75%
Victoria Shop
luxury lingerie, sportswear and accessories
COME VISIT OUR MULTI-BRAND SHOP!
1052 Budapest, Régiposta St. 11.
Phone: +36 305 585756
/victoriashopbudapest www.victoriashop.eu @victoriashopbudapest
downtown market This lesser known market
hall in the vicinity of Parliament is smaller than
its big brother (Central Market) but is just as
pretty and offers the same range of products.
Upstairs, there are all sorts of take-aways and
small restaurants which make it an ideal spot
for a quick lunch. Closed on Sundays, Pest V,
Hold utca 13, www.piaconline.hu Map D4
Escorts
ESCORT 2 nighT Beautiful and charming ladies
are waiting for you in Budapest to offer pleasant
companionship for nights out in Budapest, or as
partners for corporate events. Non-stop service.
T: (+36 20) 965 8033 or (+36 20) 502 8971, www.
escort2night.hu
20 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

WELLNESS
Winter Palace
Glide and slide amid fairy-tale
splendor at the City Park Ice Rink
The most enchanting ice rink in
Budapest lies against the wonderland
backdrop of the eye-catching
Vajdahunyad Castle, designed in 1896 as
a showcase of Hungarian palace styles
spanning centuries. The venue offers
complete skate rental and services within
its glorious neo-Baroque headquarters and
at the same time provides modern facilities
and changing rooms. Locals come in droves
to whirl around leisurely or do some serious
speed skating at this rink adjacent to Heroes’
Square (also easily reachable from the city
center by subway). After some invigorating
exercise, head upstairs for hot beverages and
Hungarian food at the Városliget Café, all to
be enjoyed while gazing at the panoramic
vista outside. City Park Ice Rink – Pest XIV, Olof
Palme sétány 5, Map G2 – www.mujegpalya.hu
Beauty
bank CEnter BEAUTY SAlon Close to St. Stephen’s
Basilica, professional cosmetic services
based on 30 years of experience, customized
for every client. Innovative therapies and cellular
rejuvenation to revitalize skin. Open Mon-Fri
10am-8pm, Sat by appointment. Pest V, Arany
János u. 28 (in the Bank Center passage). T: (+36
30) 257 4825, www.kissanikomesterkozmetikus.
hu Map D4
CLINIQUE Internationally renowned skincare and
makeup customized for individual complexions.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Pest V, Váci u. 8.
T: (+36 1) 266 7828, www.clinique.hu Map D5
DOUglAS Europe’s largest seller of cosmetics
and fragrances, carrying the most popular
beauty brands. Pest V, Váci u. 11/A. T: (+36 1) 318
2323, www.douglas-parfumeria.hu Map D5
ESTÉE LAUDER The legendary Hungarian
cosmetics doyenne of makeup and skin care.
Pest V, Váci u. 12. T: (+36 1) 266 7829, www.esteelauder.hu
Map D5
LE PArfUM Hungary’s only master perfumer
offers consultations to find your ideal aroma
from a myriad of international brands. Pest V,
Deák Ferenc u. 18. T: (+36 30) 405 0668, www.
leparfum.hu Map D6
LUSH A fragrant shop with all-natural, fresh handmade
cosmetics, bath products, makup, and
perfume. Pest V, Szent István krt. 1. T: (+36 1) 277
0840, www.lush.hu Map C2
MAC Fashion-forward line of fine cosmetics, fragrances,
nail care, and accessories. Create your
personalized color palettes. Open Mon-Sat
10am-6pm. Pest V, Váci u. 8. T: (+36 1) 328 0396,
www.maccosmetics.com Map D5
METROPOLITAN Complete grooming and style
on a quiet street in the heart of downtown.
Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat 10am-2pm.
Pest V, Aulich u. 4-6. T: (+36 30) 500 8342, www.
metropolitanbudapest.hu Map D3
OMOROVICZA Hungarian healing waters in
pure innovative skin care, now internationally
popular at upscale department stores. www.
omorovicza.com Pest VI, Andrássy út 2. T: (+36
1) 302 4604. Map D4; Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm
at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace: Pest
V, Széchenyi István tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 286 6000,
Map C4
DENTAL SERVICES
BUDAPEST DENTAL Large staff of experienced
dentists and oral surgeons in ultramodern
setting. Free treatment plans and consultations.
Open Mon-Fri 8am-8pm. Pest XIII, Szent István
krt. 10. T: (+36 1) 315 4545, www.budapestdental.hu
Map D2
DR. ÉVA CSibrey Friendly and conveniently
located private practice specializing in general
family care. Open Mon and Wed 9am-6pm, Tue
and Thu 9am-1pm. Buda II, Fillér u. 6. T: (+36 1)
316 0483, www.csibrey.hu Map A3
jewel DENTAL A comfortable and welcoming
modern facility specializing in painless implant
technology for international visitors to Hungary
seeking a new smile. Pest V, Nádor u. 23. T: (+36
30) 592 1847, www.jeweldental.eu Map C4
KREATIV DENTAL A global leader in dental tourism.
They offer free consultation and take care
of every treatment you want if you plan it well
ahead. They also have an on-site laboratory.
Pest XIV, Vezér u. 100. T: (+36 1) 222 0199, www.
kreativdentalclinic.eu
With this coupon you can
get 15% off the price
of the massages!
We are looking forward to see you in our salons:
Mammut shopping center
1024 Bp., Lövőház u. 1-5,
Mammut 2. 3. floor
Appointment: 06 30 677 5856,
06 1 505 5868
Opening hours: 10-22
Mom-Park shopping center,
1123 Budapest, Alkotás u. 53.
Appointment: 06 30 700 3200
Opening hours: 10-22
Rózsakert shopping center
1026 Bp., Gábor Áron út 74,
Appointment: 06-20-921-0755
Opening hours: 10-21 30
SenSpa Masszázs Szalon
Budapest V. ker., Nádor u. 26.
Appointment: 06 30 830 0082
Opening hours: 10-22
Stop Shop shopping center,
Hűvösvölgy
1021 Bp., Hűvösvölgyi út 138.
Appointment: 06 70 614 2500
Opening hours: 9-21
The offer is valid for all tipes of massage until 2018.09.31
www.3harmonia.hu
www.wheretraveler.com 21

WELLNESS
Fitness Centers
ASTORIA FITNESS CENTER Well-equipped modern
gym. Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-midnight and
Sat-Sun 10am-9pm at Pest V, Károly krt. 4. T: (+36
1) 317 0452, www.astoriafitness.hu Map E5
DANUBIUS PREMIER fiTNESS Hungary’s largest
fitness-club chain with four Budapest locations.
State-of the-art equipment. www.premierfitness.hu
Spa Resort Margaret Island: Budapest
XIII, T: (+36 1) 889 4914 Map D0; Spa Resort
Helia: Pest XIII, Kárpát u. 62-64. T: (+36 1) 889
5820 Map D0; Hotel Arena: Pest XIV, Ifjúság útja
1-3. T: (+36 1) 889 5282; Hotel Flamenco: Buda XI,
Tas vezér u. 3-7. T: (+36 1) 889 5761
FITNESS FACTORY Top-class fitness and wellness
center that’s parent-friendly. Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-
10:30pm and Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. Pest XIII, Róbert
Károly körút 54-58 (Material Center 5th floor). T: (+36
1) 238 0764, www.fitnessfactory.hu Map F0
HOLMES PLACE Exclusive center in the heart
of the Jewish Quarter. part of an international
chain with over 85 clubs. Open Mon-Thu
6:30am- 10:30pm, Fri 6:30pm-9:30pm and Sat-
Sun 10am- 8pm. Pest VII, Holló u. 12-14. T: (+36 1)
878 1301, www.holmesplace.hu Map E5
LITE WELLNESS CLUB Aiming to improve their
members’ quality of life, this club has trainers
and instructors, as well as dieticians and
physiotherapists. Open Mon-Fri 6am-10pm and
Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. Buda XII, Lövőház u. 2-6. T:
(+36 1) 310 7390, www.litewellness.hu
OXYGEN WEllnESS NAPHEGY A fitness complex
overlooking downtown Budapest, with
exercise machines, an indoor swimming area,
treatment services, saunas, and steam rooms,
and even a restaurant and cocktail bar. Open
Mon-Fri 6am-10:30pm, Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. Buda
I, Naphegy u. 67. T: (+36 20) 393 4219, www.
oxygenwellness.hu Map B6
WORLDCLASS HEALTH ACADEMY Elite fitness
centers at two different city locations with a
variety of membership options. Open Mon-Fri
6am-10pm and Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. Marriott
Hotel: Pest V, Apáczai Csere János út 4-6. T: (+36
1) 266 3804, www.worldclass.hu Map C-D5
Golf Courses
magyar These verdant links dating back to
1911 are located on a peaceful Danube isle just
north of Budapest. Kisoroszi, Golf út 1. www.
magyargolfclub.hu
pannonia This elegant country club features
an 18-hole championship facility and Englishlanguage
golf lessons. Máriavölgy, near Etyek. T:
(+36 22) 594 200, www.golfclub.hu
pRIVATE CLINICS
DR. roSE MEDICAL CENTER The advantages
of a full-service hospital in a patient-oriented
private clinic. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 7-8. T: (+36 1)
377 6737, www.drrose.hu Map C4
FIRSTMED CENTERS A subsidy of American
Clinics International, this modern facility has
preventative care, urgent care, and family
medicine. By appointment Mon-Fri 8am-8pm
and Sat 8am-2pm. Buda I, Hattyú u. 14. T: (+36 1)
224 9090, www.firstmed.hu Map A3
MEDICOVER International health care provider
with centers across Central and Eastern Europe,
including three in Budapest, focused on disease
prevention. Open Mon-Fri 7am-8pm. Pest VI,
Teréz krt. 55-57. T: (+36 1) 465 3100. www.medicover.com
Map E3
VIRÁNYOS CliniC Located in the hushed Buda
Hills, with preventative care, plastic surgery,
and outpatient treatments. Also has 24-hour
English-speaking urgent care. Open Mon-Fri
8am-8pm. Buda XII, Virányos út 23/D. T: (+36 1)
275 0377, www.viranyosklinika.hu
Spas
aquincum SPA Offering beauty treatments
utilizing the curative mud of Hévíz. Open daily
6am-10pm. Buda III, Árpád fejedelem útja 94. T:
(+36 1) 436 4130, www.aquincumhotel.com/hu/
spa-es-wellness
boscolo SPA Enjoy the benefits of this unique
deluxe facility to relax and refresh your body
and mind. The breathtaking design inspired by
an Alpine ice tunnel, where lights are reflected
from Swarowski crystals, provides an ideal
place to escape from everyday rush. Enjoy a
wide variety of facilities and treatments every
day. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886
6125, www.boscolohotels.com Map F5
continental SPA Luxurious rooftop wellness
area offering indoor and outdoor pools, saunas,
and a wide variety of modern amenities. Open
9am-9pm. Continental Hotel Budapest: Pest
VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 30) 914 8572, www.
continentalhotelbudapest.com Map F5
DANUBIUS HEALTH SPA MArgiTSZIGET Day-spa
visitors are welcome to indulge in hot mineral
thermal baths, saunas, steam rooms, hydro
pools, fitness, classes, and a choice of over 100
medical or pampering treatments, conducted
in pristine, elegant surroundings. Margaret
Island. T: (+36 1) 889 4914, www.premierfitness.
hu Map D0
ISIS DAY SPA Luxurious treatments using some
ancient Roman and Turkish techniques. Body
wraps, beauty treatments, and couples packages.
Try a rainforest shower, which combines a
healing touch with dripping warm water. Open
daily 10am-10pm. Pest VIII, Üllői út 14. T: (+36 1)
266 7788, www.isisdayspa.hu Map E6
KEMPINSKI the SPA Relaxing wellness center
overlooking Erzsébet Square, with deluxe
amenities and a variety of treatments inspired
by the European cycle of seasons. Open daily
7am-10pm. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest
V, Erzsébet tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 3585, www.
kempinski.com/budapest Map D5
MASCULIN A fresh, exquisitely decorated
gentlemen’s-only spa and day salon with treatments,
pedicures and manicures. Pamper the
softer side with makeup or body treatments
in this sanctuary for the exigent male. Open
Tue-Fri 10am-8pm and Sat noon-6pm. Pest
XIII, Pozsonyi út 12. T: (+36 1) 786 4642, www.
masculin.hu Map D2
ROYAL SPA With a huge pool, fitness center, and
full treatment services in a historic setting,
the Royal Spa reigns as an elegant respite of
serenity in the center of downtown. Open daily
6:30am-10pm. Corinthia Hotel Budapest: Pest
VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4650, www.
corinthia.com/budapest Map F4
spa intercontinental Enjoy exquisite wellness
treatments and spa services (including
couples’ rubdowns and Japanese shiatsu) in
this recently renovated facility. Open daily
6am-10pm. InterContinental Budapest: Pest V,
Apáczai Csere János u. 12-14. T: (+36 1) 327 6427,
www.budapest.intercontinental.com Map C5
THE SPA AT foUR SEASONS hoTEL grESHAM
PALACE Offering an extensive range of rejuvenating
therapies, services, and treatments using
the best organic products. Located on the
top floor of the hotel, the spa features private
wellness and treatment rooms, unisex sauna,
separate steam rooms for men and women,
a whirlpool, and fitness facilities. Open daily
6am-10pm. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 5-6. T: (+36 1)
268 5500, www.fourseasons.com/budapest/
spa.html Map C4
Swimming Pools &
Thermal Baths
CSILLAghEGY The oldest swimming pool in
Budapest, built into a terraced hillside with a
restaurant and separate pools for leisure, swimming,
and children. Buda III, Pusztakúti út 2-6. T:
(+36 1) 242 0754, www.csillaghegyistrand.hu
GELLÉRT A turn-of-the-century spa complex
adjacent to the Gellért Danubius Hotel. Mosaiccovered
terraces and halls, also anoutdoor pool
in summer. Open daily 6am-8pm. Buda XI, Szt.
Gellért tér 1. T: (+36 1) 466 6166, www.gellertfurdo.hu
Map D7
KIRÁLY One of Budapest’s oldest Turkish baths,
with original parts of the building dating back
to the 16th century. All facilities are available
to both men and women daily, with swimwear
required. Open daily 9am-9pm. Buda II, Fő u. 84.
T: (+36 1) 202 3688, www.kiralyfurdo.hu Map B3
LUKÁCS A historic spa with a wide range of
curative amenities and eight pools. Open daily
6am-9pm. Buda II, Frankel Leó. u. 25-29. T: (+36
1) 326 1695, www.lukacsfurdo.hu Map B1
PALATINUS Located on Margaret Island, this
premier summer waterpark encompasses many
fun pools - including a wave pool where guests
can learn how to surf - water slides, sports
grounds, along with sun beds in the lush garden.
Open in summer, daily from 9am till early
evening. Margaret Island XIII. T: (+36 1) 236 0040,
www.palatinusstrand.hu Map C1
RUDAS Hungary’s most historic Turkish bath, built
in the 16th century with stunning octagonal
pool. Buda I, Döbrentei tér 9. T: (+36 1) 356 1322,
www.rudasfurdo.hu Map C6
SZÉCHENYI This beautiful building in City Park
is the most famous and popular of Budapest’s
baths, with outdoor and indoor thermal and
swimming pools open year-round. Pest XIV,
Állatkerti krt. 11. T: (+36 1) 363 3210, www.szechenyifurdo.hu
Map G2
VELI BEJ An old Turkish bath that is part of a
hospital owned by the Ordo Hospitalarius. Its
five thermal pools , including the octagonal
dome, are open to the public in the mornings
(6am-noon) and afternoons (3pm-9pm). Buda II,
Árpád fejedelem útja 7, T: (+36 1) 438 8400
22 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

Hot Waters
Budapest’s best thermal pools in winter
T
he
hot bath” into an art form. It feels like magic at the end of
a cold winter’s day to take a relaxing plunge in one of the
famous pools, then sweating it out in a sauna and rounding
it all off with a rejuvenating massage.
The Gellért Bath is most famous for the extraordinary Art
Nouveau architecture of its various indoor warm and hot
pools. The elegant statues and colorful interior tiles and
mosaics take you back to the 1910s, when this complex
was built atop an old hot water well as an exclusive hotel
and playground for the aristocracy.
The Neo-Baroque Széchenyi Bath centers around two
outdoor but hot pools. Really nothing beats a leisurely
swim in the steaming hot outdoor pools while everything
around you is covered in snow. The surrounding buildings
offer many other pools and facilities.
There are three old Turkish Bathhouses from the 16th
century at the foot of Castle Hill: the Király, the Rudas,
and the Veli Bej. They all center around a pool with an
octagonal dome set with colored glass stones, allowing
daylight to filter through and paint magical patterns on
the rustic old stone walls and the water.
For addresses, see our Listings on p.22.
⁓
Hungarian capital sits atop one of the biggest
⁓ ⁓
hot water reservoirs in the world. Romans, Turks,
Habsburgs, and Hungarians have turned “taking a
WELLNESS
⁓
SPONSORED ARTICLE
⁓
www.wheretraveler.com 23

DINING
Festive Dining
Where to go for X-mas dinner
Many restaurants in Hungary close
their doors on Christmas Eve
(December 24), either all day or after
lunch, so it can be difficult to find a nice place
for dinner. But there are restaurants, many
of them connected to hotels, that are open
and some offer special Christmas menus.
The latter come with a price tag, of course,
and you really have to make a reservation
well in advance. Restaurants that are open
are, for example, 21, Baltazár, PestBuda,
Pierrot, ÉS bistro, Araz, Peppers, New York,
Le Bourbon, or Onyx (see our Listings for
detailed info). Alternatively, you can opt for
simple food in downtown pubs that stay
open for stray tourists. Most restaurants
open their doors again on Dec 25 and 26, but
many Hungarians go out for dinner on these
days, too, so it will still be crowded and a
reservation is recommended.
Coffee houses
AUGUSZT On of the famous grand old confectionery
chains, with biscuits, cakes, and ice
creams. They now have two coffee houses,
one in Pest and one in Buda. www.auguszt.hu
Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm and Sat 11am-6pm at
Pest V, Kossuth Lajos u. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 337 6379
Map A3; Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm at Buda XI,
Sasadi út 190. T: (+36 1) 249 0134
Art nouveau CAfé Small coffee house decorated
with old-world furniture in unique Art
Nouveau style, it also houses a small museum.
Pest V, Honvéd u.3. T : (+36 1) 269 4622, www.
magyarszecessziohaza.hu Map D3
CENTRÁL CAFÉ Old-fashioned splendor with
fine dining and tasty pastries. Open daily 8am-
11pm. Pest V, Károlyi Mihály u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266
2110, www.centralkavehaz.hu Map D6
CSÉSZÉNYI káVÉZÓ This is a perfect place for the
real coffee addict as it serves more than 30 types of
coffee, made from handpicked and high-quality Arabica
beans from all over the world. Coffee beans
are further roasted and blended on-site, which
ensures a high-quality taste. There are also teas, hot
chocolates, sandwiches and cakes available. The
café is situated in the Csészényi building, which
for over a hundred years housed the watchmaker’s
workplace from the Rill family. This is reflected on
the walls with many pictures, posters and clocks.
Open daily 8am-10pm. Buda I, Krisztina körút 34, T:
(+36 1) 212 6571, www.cseszenyi.hu Map B5
ECO CAFÉ Enjoy delicious organic coffees,
teas and healthy snacks: including biscuits,
sandwiches, salads, and pastries at this ecoconscious
eatery. Whenever possible, products
are fairly traded for guilt-free indulgence. Open
Mon-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 8am-8pm. Pest VI,
Andrássy út 68. www.ecocafe.hu Map E3
ELSŐ PESTI TEAház One of the best selections of
teas in the city. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and
Sat 10am-2pm. Pest XIII, Katona J. u. 5. T: (+36 1)
359 3028, www.elso-pesti-teahaz.hu Map D2
GERBEAUD Budapest’s world-famous historic
coffeehouse with old-time elegance right in
the center of town. Open daily 9am-9pm. Pest
V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 9000, www.
gerbeaud.hu Map D5
NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SAlon Both are Michelin
recommended and situated in the gloriously
decorated baroque New York palace which is
one of Budapest’s most legendary buildings.
Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167,
www.newyorkcafe.hu Map F5
OPERA CAFÉ Tucked inside the iconic Milos
Ybl-designed Hungarian State Opera House,
Opera Café makes for an equally grand preor
post-performance stop. Salads, pastas,
sandwiches, wine and specialty coffee are all
savored against a glamorous ambiance. Buda
VI, Andrássy út 22, T: (+36 1) 800 9210, www.
operacafe.hu Map E4
RUSzwURM Charming Castle District café dating
back to 1827, with a beautiful interior. Cash only.
Open daily 10am-7pm. Buda I, Szentháromság u.
7. T: (+36 1) 375 5284, www.ruszwurm.hu Map B4
SZAMOS MARCIPÁN Original cookie, cake, and
ice cream specialties, marzipan gift wrappings
and chocolate desserts. Open daily 10am-7pm.
Pest V, Párizsi u. 3. T: (+36 1) 317 3643, www.
szamosmarcipan.hu Map D5
Hungarian
21 Michelin recommended. Casual Hungarian restaurant
where locals go for real regional flavors
like they used to be, with only characteristic
Hungarian wines. In Buda’s medieval Castle
District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 21. T: (+36 1) 202 2113,
www.21restaurant.hu Map B4
ARANYSZARVAS Michelin recommended. Hungarian
and European delights in a historic Buda
location, serving the city’s finest game dishes.
Buda I, Szarvas tér 1. T: (+36 1) 375 6451, www.
aranyszarvas.hu Map C6
ARAZ Michelin recommended. The restaurant
is part of the Zara Intercontinental hotel in
the Jewish quarter and offers Hungarian and
French cuisine in the elegant Art Nouveau
ambience of a former Bath House. There are
also dinners with folk music and various tarditional
folk dances on Friday evenings. Pest VII,
Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 1) 815 1100, www.araz.
hu Map F5
ART’OTEL Michelin recommended hotel restaurant
on the Buda embankment almost opposite
Parliament. Modern Hungarian cuisine
and modern interior with original artworks
on the walls. Views over the river. Buda I, Bem
Rakpart 16-19, T: (+36 1) 487 9439, www.artotels.
com, Map B4
BAbel Michelin recommended fine dining
restaurant in the heart of the city, focusing on
seasonal, regional delicacies with the majority
of the raw material coming from Hungary, just
like the decorations and materials used in the
restaurant. Pest V, Piarista köz 2. T: (+36 70) 6000
800, www.babel-budapest.hu Map D6
24 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

DINING
Coming soon
@ Gozsdu
Udvar
Freshly baked, handstratched sourdough pizza
The Italian way of eating is all about family and friends
getting together to enjoy great food, and that’s what
Jamie’s Pizzeria is all about. There’ll be something for
everyone, all served up with the welcoming, friendly service
you would expect from a trip to any of Jamie’s restaurants.
The menu at Jamie’s Pizzeria is concise, focused on
incredible oven baked pizzas - topped with big flavours
and fresh ingredients - as well as simple salads and
a selection of Italian desserts, served up in a buzzing
environment. The experience should be simple and
authentic, a true reflection of everything Jamie stands for
- simple, honest and tasty food, created using superbly
sourced produce and all at a great price.
Simple,
honest
& tasty
Keep in touch
facebook.com/JamiesPizzeriaBudapest
www.wheretraveler.com 25

DINING
BALTAZÁR A Michelin recommended familyowned
gastro playground with a warm and
friendly atmosphere. Enjoy gourmet street
food made with fresh ingredients, along with
notable wines of the Carpathian Basin. Buda
I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1) 300 7050, www.
baltazarbudapest.com Map A4
BOCK BISTRO Two Michelin recommended
restaurants, one located in the Corinthia Hotel
building in downtown Pest, the other in a
modern glass and wood building with big terrace
in a leafy part of Buda. Both serve modern
Hungarian food and wonderful Hungarian
wines. www.bockbisztro.hu Pest VII, Erzsébet
krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 321 0340, Map F4 (closed on
Sun); Buda XII, Szarvas Gábor út 8. T: (+36 1) 376
6044, Off Map (closed on Mon and Tue).
BORkantin With almost 40 different wines on
the menu, this Michelin recommended restaurant
is offering Hungarian and international
delicacies made from seasonal, high-quality
ingredients, which can be accompanied with
the most suitable wines. Pest V, Váci u 83. T: (+36
1) 794 5385, www.borkantin.hu Map D6
BORKONYHA The Michelin recommended
“Winekitchen” is a bustling wine-orientated
blend of a French-style bistro and a contemporary
family restaurant near the Basilica, offering
the best of Hungarian cuisine. Shaded terrace
in spring and summer. Pest V, Sas utca 3, T: (+36
1) 266 0835, www.borkonyha.hu Map D4
GOURMET STREET FOOD,
SHARING FOOD,
SERIOUS MEATS FROM
THE HANDMADE
CHARCOAL JOSPER GRILL
Országház utca 31. Budapest // Buda Castle
www.baltazarbudapest.com // +36 1 300 7050
hello@baltazarbudapest.com
BRASSERIE & ATRIUM Michelin recommended
restaurant that is part of the elegant Corinthia
Hotel. Fne lunches and dinners, and gourmet
Sunday brunches with many classic Hungarian
dishes. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479
4850, www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4
BUDAPEST TERRACE CAFÉ & RESTAURANT Situated
at the foot of the Palace on Castle Hill, it
offers modern Hungarian and Italian dishes and
an amazing panorama of Budapest. Seating on
several levels. Buda I, Buda Castle. T: (+36 30) 375
6774, www.budapestterrace.hu Map B5
COSTES The older Costes in Ráday street has had
a Michein star for years, but the new Costes
Downtown in Vigyázó street also got one more
recently. Both restaurants serve accomplished
innovative dishes by a talented chef who
uses modern techniques. Costes Downtown
has a somewhat more relaxed atmosphere.
Costes, Pest IX, Ráday u. 4. T: (+36 1) 219 0696,
Map E6 Costes Downtown, Pest V, Vigyázó
Ferenc u. 5. T: (+36 1) 920 1015, Map E4 www.
costes.hu
CSALOGÁNY 26 This place was born from the
marriage of traditional kitchen and fine dining
constantly changing, seasonal dishes, impeccable
ingredients, top quality and precise
methods. T: (+36 1) 201 7892. Buda I, Csalogány
u. 26. www.csalogany26.hu Map B3
DÉRYNÉ BISTRO Michelin recommended
bistro and café dating back to 1914 with a full
breakfast menu, seasonal lunch specials and
gourmet dinners. Buda I, Krisztina tér 3. T: (+36
1) 225 1407, www.bistroderyne.com Map B5
ÉMILE Owned by Gerbeaud, this restaurant is
in an old villa and shady garden in an elegant
residential area of Buda. Every aspect serves to
indulge the guest in a friendly, informal atmosphere.
The well-traveled chefs take inspiration
from the newest international trends to create
their exciting refined dishes. A cake shop, café
and bar are also in the building. T: (+ 36 30) 585
0602. Buda II, Orló u. 1. www.emile.hu Off Map
ÉS Michelin recommended restaurant. Enjoy
tasting-size portions of Hungarian and Austrian
specialties served in a stylishly laid-back bistro
overlooking Fashion Street. Highlights include
grilled steaks and fine regional wines. Pest V,
Deák Ferenc u. 12-14. www.esbisztro.hu Map D5
GRESHAM RESTAURANT Michelin recommended
restaurant in the Jugendstill Gresham Palace
that houses the Four Seasons hotel. Magnificent
view of the riverfront with Chain Bridge and
Castle Hill. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 5. T: (+36 1) 268
6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest Map C4
GUNDEL Michelin recommended and highly elegant
restaurant in City Park that serves upscale
Hungarian gastronomy. Pest XIV, Gundel Károly
út 4. T: (+36 1) 468 4040, www.gundel.hu Map G2
HALÁSZBÁSTYA Boasting spectacular Danube
and Pest views from its fairy-tale location in a
Fishermen’s Bastion tower on Castle Hill, this
regal restaurant serves Hungarian delicacies
like Grey Cattle, Mangalica ham, and wild game.
Buda I, Fishermen’s Bastion. T: (+36 1) 201 6935,
www.halaszbastya.eu Map B4
KÉT SZERECSEN An ageless place – meeting
point, coffee house and casual bistro. Daily
menus. T: (+36 1) 343 1984. Pest VI, Nagymező u.
14. www.ketszerecsen.hu Map E4
Kispiac bisztró Old-style neighborhood bistro
just of Szabadság Square, serving traditional
Hungarian food in a homey atmosphere. The
menu varies almost daily and ingredients come
straight from the adjacent local market, the
Vásárcsarnok. Closed on Sun. Pest V, Hold u. 13.
T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.kispiac.eu Map D4
KŐLEVES Hot spot in the heart of the Jewish
district. The restaurantserves filling Hungarian
cuisine with Jewish specialties such as
bakedbeans and goose legs and alsocaters for
people who prefer vegetarian. In the adjacent
garden ruin pub you can get typical pub food.
Pest VII, Kazinczy u. 41. T: (+36 20) 213 5999,
www.koleves.com Map E4
L19 Michelin recommended restaurant which is
part of the modern L19 Design Hotel on the
Buda embankment. Contemporary and traditional
dishes, nice view towards the Danube
and Chain Bridge. Buda I, Lánchíd u. 19, T: (+36
1) 457 1200, www.lanchid19hotel.hu Map C5
Laci! konyha! Sophisticated boutique restaurant
offering traditional Hungarian delicacies
with high quality ingredients in a trendy, industrial
setting. Recommended by the Michelin
Guide. Pest XIII, Hegedűs Gyula u. 56. T: (+36 70)
370 7475, www.lacikonyha.com Map D1
photo: MAJTIKA FOTÓ
26 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

DINING
DINING
177x124_where_arazxmas.indd 1 19/11/17 19:34
Wolf András
Executive Chef
Salon
Restaurant
Boscolo Budapest Hotel
New York Palace
Tel.: +36 1 886 6167
reservation@salonrestaurant.hu
www.salonrestaurant.hu
www.wheretraveler.com 27

DINING
RESTAURANTS of the MONTH
Buda I, Fortuna u.21, Map B4,
T: (+36 1) 202 2113, www.21restaurant.hu
21
This Michelin recommended restaurant is situated within
the Castle Hill walls and, according to the Michelin inspector,
offers a “contemporary take on a traditional bistro. Classic
Hungarian dishes are subtly reinvented with an appealing
contemporary touch.” 21 calls itself a restaurant as they were
in “the good old days,” but in an original new way, passing
over the typical Hungarian restaurant clichés in cuisine and in
design. Among others, this means that while the original real
taste is maintained, dishes are lighter than the old fashioned
Hungarian cuisine. The Michelin inspector is obviously happy
with the result, characterizing it as “good cooking” with
“fresh ingredients” and “capably prepared.”
VÖRÖS POSTAKOCSI
Since 1972, the “Red Mail Coach” (Vörös Postakocsi) restaurant
has offered traditional Hungarian cuisine with an upbeat
atmosphere thanks to live music from a Gypsy orchestra.
Specialties include goose liver, kolbász (spicy sausage), salami,
pancakes (both sweet and savory), and paprika chicken. The
restaurant also prides itself on offering excellent dishes from
Mangalica pork and Grey cattle, plus the best sparerib menu
in Budapest. Named after a novel by renowned Hungarian
author Gyula Krúdy, the Red Mail Coach is frequented by
many locals. The wooden walls covered with bookcases –
originally it was a coffee house – give it a cozy feel. Open
daily from 11:30am to midnight.
Pest IX, Ráday u. 15, Map E7,
T: (+36 1) 217 6756, www.vorospk.com
Pest V, Piarista Köz 2, Map D5,
T: (+36 70) 6000 800, www.babel-budapest.hu
BABEL
The Via Michelin Budapest guide recommends Babel
Budapest saying it offers modern and sophisticated
cooking that also shows respect for Hungarian traditions.
The restaurant focuses on regional cuisine inspired by
local traditions, while at the same time meeting today’s
international expectations. Also, 75% of the ingredients
come from Hungary, as does the equipment and
accessories in the restaurant. According to the Michelin
inspector “you really feel part of proceedings at Babel,
courtesy of a bread oven in the restaurant and the chefs
themselves delivering some of the dishes.” They also have a
particularly interesting wine list.
28 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

DINING
DINING
MÁK BISTRO A welcoming Michelin recommended
hangout for high-quality haute
cuisine served without pretension. Seasonal
dishes created with artistic flair and extraordinary
Hungarian wines. Closed on Mon. Pest V,
Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4. T: (+36 30) 723 9383, www.
mak.hu Map C4
MÁRGA BUDAPEST A casual bistro close to Király
street and Deák Ferenc square. The restaurant
brings the spirit of Lake Balaton to Budapest.
Expect modern cuisine inspired by traditions,
attentive hospitality and relaxed milieu. T: (+36
70) 333 5289, Pest VI, Székely Mihály u. 2. www.
margabisztro.hu Map E4
MÚZEUM Fine cuisine, excellent range of Hungarian
wines, beautiful old fashioned interior and
one of the few that still has live piano music.
Closed on Sun. Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 12. T: (+36
1) 267 0375, www. muzeumkavehaz.hu Map E6
NAGY FATÁL konYHÁJA FLocated near the main
shopping area of Váci street, this eatery offers
traditional Hungarian food along with grilled
meats prepared in an open kitchen. Pest VI,
Kigyó utca 4, www.nagyfatal.hu Map D6
NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SAlon Both are Michelin
recommended and situated in the gloriously
decorated baroque New York palace which is
one of Budapest’s most legendary buildings.
Modern Hungarian in grand style. Pest VII, Erzsébet
krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167, www.newyorkcafe.hu
www.salonrestaurant.hu Map F5
ONYX One of the view restaurants with a Michelin
star, this place is glamorous and ostentatious.
Precise, highly skilled cooking rsulting in
Hungarian dishes with a modern twist. Closed
on Sun, booking absolutely essential. Pest V,
Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 30) 508 0622, www.
onyxrestaurant.hu Map D5
PALACE CAFÉ this restaurant located on the
ground floor of the Novotel hotel serves Hungarian
and French specialties. Pest VIII, Rákóczi
út 43-45. T: (+36 1) 477 5485 Map F5
P2 This lounge restaurant next to the Basilica
offers international and Hungarian specialties,
menus prepared by master chefs, and wines of
select quality. Pest V, Sas u. 9. T: (+36 1) 222 4422,
www.p2budapest.com Map D4
PEPPERS! Featuring a panoramic Danube view
from its raised terrace, this contemporary grill
fuses Hungarian produce with Mediterranean
flavors. Part of the Budapest Marriott Hotel:
Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 4. T: (+36 1) 737
7377, www.peppers.hu Map D5
PESTI DISznÓ Michelin recommended contemporary
bistro serving fresh Hungarian cuisine
and many local wines by the glass. Pest VI,
Nagymező u. 19. T: (+36 1) 951 4061, www.
pestidiszno.hu Map E4
PEST-BUDA BISTRO A restaurant honoring
Grandma's homestyle kitchen for several
decades, using the best ingredients with love
and care. It only carries Hungarian wines rich
with personality. Around the corner is a terrace,
open in spring and summer, with a view towards
Mathhias Church. Buda I, Fortuna u. 3, T:
(+36 1) 225 0377, www.pest-buda.com Map E4
Nobu
NEW YEAR’S EVE
31 DECEMBER 2017 FROM 9 PM
Celebrate New Year’s Eve with a culinary
journey around the world, with a special 8
course NYE menu, fantastic live Latin rhythms
of Mai Rumba and dance show.
INFORMATION AND RESERVATION:
+36 1 429 42 42 | reservation@noburestaurant.hu
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus, 1051 Budapest, Erzsébet tér 7-8.
Tickets are on sale.
www.wheretraveler.com 29

DINING
PIERROT Michelin recommended restaurant
with modern Hungarian fine cuisine, carefully
selected wines, a romantic open-air winter
garden, and live piano music in the heart of the
Castle District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 14. T: (+36 1)
375 6971, www.pierrot.hu Map B4
PRESIDENT Michelin recommended restaurant
on top of the hotel with the same name. The
only place with a full view on the magnificent
Jugendstil roof of the Postal Savings Bank, build
by Ődön Lechner. Pest V, Hold u. 3-5, T: (+36 1)
373 8200, www.hotelpresident.hu Map D4
ROBINSON Romantic location on its own island
in a tree-lined pond in the City Park. Light business
lunches, Latin guitar every night. Pest XIV,
in City Park. T: (+36 1) 422 0222, www.robinsonrestaurant.hu
Map G2
SOUL CAFÉ Cosy atmosphere, a mix of Hungarian
and Mediterranean cuisine but always with a
twist, and very reasonably priced. Pest IX, Ráday
u. 11-13. T: (+36 1) 217 6986, www.soulcafe.hu
Map E6
SPINOZA CAFÉ A cozy, romantic, beautifully
traditional Hungarian restaurant with a Jewish
touch. Live piano music nightly and klezmer
shows every Friday evening. Pest VII, Dob u.
15. T: (+36 1) 413 7488, www.spinozacafe.hu
Map E5
SPOON CAFÉ & loUNGE Riverboat restaurant
docked on the Danube Promenade offering
Take a shot for a free shot!
hungarianhellkitchen.com
international cuisine and panoramic Budapest
riverfront views. Pest V, moored on the Pest riverbank
by the Chain Bridge. T: (+36 1) 411 0933,
www.spooncafe.hu Map C5
TIGRIS This timelessly elegant Michelin rcommended
spot serves only the freshest ingredients
and finest cuts of meat when preparing
familiar dishes. Closed on Sun, Pest V, Mérleg
u. 10. T: (+36 1) 317 3715, www.tigrisrestaurant.
hu Map D4
TRÓFEA grill RESTAURANTS Eat and drink as
much as you like for a fixed price, on three locations
in downtown Buda and Pest, www.trofea.
hu Buda II, Margit krt. 2. T: (+36 1) 438 9090
Map B2; Pest VI, Király u. 30-32. T: (+36 20) 999
8797 Map E4; Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A. T: (+36
1) 270 0366 Map E1
up&down Modern Hungarian cuisine (some of
it with an interesting Asian infusion) and simple
street-food meals for a quick meal. It also has
a beautiful view, with two small terraces overlooking
the square with Central Market Hall
and the river Danube with Gellért Hill. T: (+36
1) 226 2329. Pest V, Fővám tér 1, Map D6, www.
facebook.com/Upandown
Véndiak A favorite local hangout since 1938 that
offers mdern Hungarian cuisine. In spring and
summer, it has an inviting terrace on University
square. Pest V, Egyetem tér 5, T: (+36 1) 267 0226,
www.vendiaketterem.hu Map E6
Hungarian traditions
and tastes in the
heart of Budapest
If you are a lover of grilling,
if you have love the smell and
also the presentation of the
special charcoal grilled food
tasting, you can find it all here!
Make yourself at home!
1052 Budapest,
Kígyó street 4.
(near Ferenciek tere)
+36 1 787 8736
Open: M-Su:
11:00-23:00
Vintage garden This romantic Provencal bistro
is a haven amidst the shabby ruin-pubs. Pest VII,
Dob u. 21. T: (+36 30) 790 6619, www.facebook.
com/vintagegardenbudapest Map E5
InTERNATIONAL
1ST JOHN BULL SPORT PUB This
popular restaurant offers full English
breakfasts and ale on tap. Live sports,
free Wi-Fi. Pest V, Apáczai Csere János
u. 17. T: (+36 1) 338 2168, www.johnbullsportpub.hu
Map C5
ARANY KAVIÁR Michelin recommended place
for fine dining with a wide range of top-caliber
caviar, excellent seafood selection, and exquisite
Czarist cuisine with French influences. Buda
I, Ostrom u. 19. T: (+36 1) 201 6737, www.aranykaviar.hu
Map A3
ARRIBA TAQUERIA Fresh Mexican food served
in a taco-stand atmosphere at four convenient
locations. www.arriba.hu Pest VI, Teréz krt. 25.
T: (+36 1) 374 0057 Map E3; Buda I, Széna tér 1.
T: (+36 1) 201 3395 Map A3; Buda XI, Október
huszonharmadika u. 6-10. T: (+36 1) 950 1164;
Buda XI, Allee Plaza, Október huszonharmadika
u. 6-10. T: (+36 1) 950 1164
BABKA This cozy eatery got its name from the
chocolate milk-loaf of Jerusalem, referring to
the concept of the kitchen. Guests can find the
eastern flavors of the Mediterranean Sea, Jewish,
Arabic, Turkish, Mediterranean food, along
with the Hungarian dishes. T: (+36 1) 789 9672.
Pest XIII, Pozsonyi út 3. www.facebook.com/
babkabudapest Map D2
BAMBUSzligET TAKEBAYASHI Superb traditional
Japanese meals and sushi bar with view
over the Danube riverfront and Gellért Hill. Pest
V, Belgrád rkpt. 18. T: (+36 1) 318 1144, www.
bambuszliget.hu Map D6
BELGIAN BRASSERIE HEnri Top-notch combo of
Belgian beer and food like Brussels-style mussels.
Buda I, Bem rakpart 12. T: (+36 1) 201 5082,
www.belgasorozo.com Map B4
CALEDONIA A cozy hangout for hearty food (including
haggis) and top-notch Scotch whisky.
Pest VI, Mozsár u. 9. T: (+36 1) 311 7611, www.
facebook.com/caledoniabudapest Map E4
FAUSTO’S Sit in the linen-laid tables in the
restaurant or the more casual, wood-furnished,
Michelin recommended osteria. Menus offer
simple, rustic Italian classics. Closed on Sun..
Pest VII, Dohány u. 3-5. T: (+36 1) 269 6806, www.
fausto.hu Map E5
HUNTER-VADÁSZ GASTro&SPORT
PUB Fancy good deer goulash or
hot deer stew? Amazing fine venison
dishes and pub grubs (burgers,
fish and chips etc.). Live sports, free
wifi. Pest V, Podmaniczky tér 4. T:
(+36 1) 269 3116 facebook: Vadasz
Gastro Pub Map D4
IGUANA BAR AND grill A Tex-Mex haven with
homemade burritos, spicy salsas, delectable
chips, and margaritas in a classic downtown
cantina popular with expats. Pest V, Zoltán u.
16. T: (+36 1) 331 4352, www.iguana.hu Map D4
30 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

DINING
Quality street food,
DINING
Hungary’s best microbrews
laid-back scene
live DJ music
from Thursday to Saturday
Open for breakfast,
lunch, dinner and
party - every day
from 9 am to 2 am
web: www.spilerbp.hu fb: www.facebook.com/spilerbp insta: www.instagram.com/spilerbp/
address: 1075 Budapest, Király utca 16. // Gozsdu udvar
bistro, bar, club
and Secret Bar
quality Asian kitchen
luxuriant cocktails
Budapest’s ruin pubs
with the atmosphere
of New York Chinatown
Open every day
from 11:30 am to dawn
www.wheretraveler.com 31

DINING
IL TERZO CERChio Urbane Italian eatery with
exposed oven and brick ceilings, specializing
in hand-tossed pizza. Pest VII, Dohány u. 40.
T: (+36 1) 354 0788, www.ilterzocerchio.hu
Map E5
JACK DOYLE’S Offering the best of traditional
Irish fare married to local Hungarian specialties,
with weekday lunch specials. Global sports
broadcasts. Pest V, Pilvax köz 1-3. T: (+36 1) 796
9009, www.jackdoyles.hu Map D5
JAMIE'S ITALIAN on Buda Castle Hill is the first
restaurant of Jamie Oliver in Central Europe.
The unique menu is packed with Jamie's Italian
classics, artisan pizzas, craft beer and plenty
of fantastic local and Italian wines. Buda I, Szentháromság
u. 9-11, T: (+36 1) 800 9212, www.
jamieoliver.com/italian/hungary/ Map E4
LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO A Cuban cocktail
bar and music restaurant in the style of old Havana,
with fresh fish and grilled steaks. Located
in the beautiful Fészek Club. Pest VII, Dob u.
57. T: (+36 20) 388 2738, www.bodeguita.hu
Map E4
LA PLAZA Gourmet Spanish restaurant at
Szabadság Square offers a seasonal à la carte
menu of fine dining and a premier selection
of tapas. Pest V, Október 6 u. 26. T: (+36 1) 354
3050 Map D4
LE BOURBON Michelin-recommended French
restaurant specializing in fresh seafood and
shellfish, and particularly renowned for exquisite
pastries and cakes. Pest V, Erzsébet tér 9-10.
T: (+36 1) 429 5770, www.lebourbonrestaurant.
com Map D5
L’ENOTECA A cozy wine bar offering Trattoria
Toscana’s full menu, along with some 300
varieties of wine from across Hungary, Italy,
and the world. Terrace dining with panoramic
riverfront views. Pest V, Belgrád rkp. 13. T: (+36
1) 486 1665, www.lenoteca.hu Map D6
lou lou Delight in world-class French gastronomy
at the Michelin recommended Lou Lou
eatery, led by esteemed Magyar restaurateur
Károly Rudits. The warmly welcoming setting
that is equally elegant and relaxed, is offering
artistically presented meals using high caliber
ingredients. Pest VI, Székely Mihály u. 2. T: (+36
1) 877 6202, www.lou-lou.hu Map E4
MOMOTARO RAMEN Noodles, dim sum and
spicy Szechuanese dishes. The real Chinese
stuff so no wonder the place swarms with Chinese
guests. Closed on Mon. Pest V, Széchenyi
u. 16. T: (+ 36 1) 269 3802, www.momotaroramen.com
Map C4
NOBU Michelin rcommended new-style
Japanese restaurant. Yellowtail sashimi with
jalapeno and Alaskan black cod with den miso
are just two of the signiture dishes found on
the menu. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest V,
Erzsébet tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 4242, www.noburestaurants.com/budapest
Map D5
NOIR ET L’OR Colonial French cuisine with
Mediterranean flavors. Multiple sampler plates
offered. Pest VII, Király u. 17. T: (+36 1) 413 0236,
www.noiretlor.hu Map E4
OKUYAMA no SUSHI Hard-to-find Osaka-style sushi,
good cooked-fish dishes too. Closed on Mon.
Buda III, Kolosy tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 250 8256. Map B0
PAMPAS If you long for ral good beef, and lots
of it, this Argentinean steakhouse opposite
the big Market Hall is the place to go. Pest V,
Vámház kőrut 6, T: (+36 1) 411 1750, www.steak.
hu Map E6
PATA NEGRA Delicacies in true tapas sizes, great
cheeses, and a Spanish wine menu. www.
patanegra.hu Pest IX, Kálvin tér 8. T: (+36 30) 311
8690 Map E6; Buda II, Frankel Leó u. 55. T: (+36
1) 438 3227 Map B2
PARIS BUDAPEST Michelin recommended
French haute cuisine and Hungarian specialties
prepared with a Gallic flavor. Pest V, Széchenyi
tér 2. T: (+36 1) 235 5600, www.parisbudapest.
hu Map C5
PAVILLON DE PARIS This restaurant offers the
finest of French cuisine. It has a romantic ruinterrace
in spring and summer. Closed on Sun.
Buda I, Fő u. 20. T: (+36 1) 225 0174, www.pavillondeparis.hu
Map B4
PLANET SUSHI Along with freshly made sushi,
the menu includes wok-prepared dishes and
salads. Excellent lunchtime bento boxes available
on weekdays. Pest VI, Oktogon tér 3. T: (+36
1) 413 7830, www.planetsushi.hu/en Map E4
RICKSHAW RESTAURANT This Michelin recommended
place is also part of the Corinthia hotel
and serves authentic dishes from across the
Orient. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479
4855 or (+36 1) 479 4800, www.corinthia.com/
budapest Map F4
ROSENSTEIN One of Budapest’s most popular
Jewish restaurants in a hidden-away corner
near Keleti railway station. Closed on Sun. Pest
VIII, Mosonyi u. 3. T: (+36 1) 333 3492, www.
rosenstein.hu Map G5
SALAAM BomBAY An elaborate selection of
Indian cuisine. Pest V, Mérleg u. 6. T: (+36 1) 411
1252, www.salaambombay.hu Map C4
SHAlimAR Possibly the best Indian restaurant in
town, unanimously acclaimed for its tasty curries
and tandoori dishes. Located in the Jewish
Quarter. Pest VII, Dob utca 53. T: (+36 1) 352
0305, www.shalimar.hu Map E4
SPÍLER This “bistropub” is a popular urban
hangout in Gozsdu Udvar, with Hungary’s best
microbrews and wines, a big terrace. Pest VII,
Király u. 13. T: (+36 1) 878 1320, www.spilerbp.
hu Map E5
SPÍLER SAnghAI Inspired by the ‘30s in Shanghai,
this bar, bistro and club offers a wide variety of
cocktails and delicacies with an Asian twist in
a rustic, industrial setting. Pest VII, Király u. 13.
T: (+36 1) 878 1309, www.spilerbp.hu/shanghai
Map E5
TAJ MAHAL An irresistible selection of Indian fare,
including North and South Indian specialties.
Home deliveries too. Closed on Mon. Pest VI,
Szondi u. 40. T: (+36 1) 301 0447, www.tajmahal.
hu Map E3
TAVERNA DionYSOS Greek appetizers, charcoalgrilled
meats, seafood, Greek wines. Panoramic
views of Gellért Hill. Pest V, Belgrád rkp. 16. T:
(+36 1) 318 1222, www.dionysos.hu Map D6
TOM GEORGE ITALIAno A welcoming dining
haven offering traditional dishes from all over
Italy, all made from top-quality ingredients.
Pest V, Október 6 u. 8. T: (+36 1) 266 3525, www.
tomgeorge.hu Map D4
TRATTORIA MAMMA Fine Italian dining and an
extensive wine list. Pest V, Hercegprímás u. 3. T:
(+36 1) 267 5268 Map D4
TRATTORIA Pomo D’oro Homemade Tuscan
pasta, risotto, pizza, and fresh seafood. Pest
V, Arany János u. 9. T: (+36 1) 302 6473, www.
pomodorobudapest.com Map D4
TRATToriA TOSCANA Tuscan classics and views
over the Danube riverfront. Pest V, Belgrád
rkpt. 13-15. T: (+36 1) 327 0045, www.toscana.hu
Map D6
WASABI RUnning SUSHI & wok Sushi bar that
offers all-you-can-eat from a selection of 60
wok entrees and 8 sushi rolls that move along
your table on a double conveyor belt. www.
wasabi.hu Buda III, Szépvölgyi út 15. T: (+36 1)
430 1056, Map B0; Pest VI, Podmaniczky u. 21. T:
(+36 1) 374 0008 Map D3
ZONA Located between two of Budapest’s World
Heritage Sites, the Buda Castle and the Chain
Bridge, ZONA is classy but casual, and offers a
unique dining experience. T: (36 30) 422 5981
www.zonabudapest.com Map C5
32 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

Budapest’s iconic DINING
first private
restaurant and café,
Pierrot became
years old
this year.
35
Celebrate the elegant
Hungarian cuisine in
the Buda Castle, in
a 13th-century old
bakery house.
Pierrot is a refined
yet comfortable
and relaxed, friendly
Hungarian restaurant
that has been
a culinary landmark
for 35 years. The menu
features contemporary
interpretations of
Hungarian specialities.
Fortuna utca 14.
Budapest // Buda Castle
www.pierrot.hu
+36 1 375 6971
hello@pierrot.hu
Pierrot 177x124 mm.indd 1 2017.11.21. 13:57:30
www.wheretraveler.com 33

DINING
jamie’s Italian
SPONSORED ARTICLE
baltazár grill
pest-buda bistro
pierrot
pierrot
21 hungarian kithcen
BUDA'S BEST EATS
Just a five-minute ride from downtown Pest, the Buda Castle
Gastronomic Quarter is home to some of the best food and
friendliest hospitality you'll find in the Hungarian capital.
While many visitors to Budapest are content to solely explore the
animated streets of Pest, savvy travellers know no trip is complete
without visiting the streets of Buda. Those who cross over Chain
Bridge will find the Castle District, an amazing restaurant scene.
High above the river, the Castle District is also home to the late
Gothic-style Matthias Church with a roof covered in colourful
Zsolnay ceramic tiles, known as the Fisherman's Bastion terrace.
Here you'll find an astounding view of the city - and the charming
medieval houses below.
Among the beautifully landscaped streets and squares in the
shadow of the magnificent Buda Castle, you'll find some of
Budapest's coolest and most celebrated restaurants. Here, we
highlight some of the stand-out stars of the city's acclaimed Buda
Castle Gastronomic Quarter.
Classically elegant Hungarian restaurant, Pierrot (pierrot.hu)
has been a culinary landmark for 35 years. The menu features
contemporary interpretations of Hungarian specialities. Set in
a 13th-century bakery house, Pierrot is also known for its magical
garden and celebrities coming for some privacy in the city.
At 21 Hungarian Kitchen (21restauant.hu), Hungarian cuisine from
the 'good old days' gets a modern update. The light dishes,
embracing the finest ingredients, are paired solely with local,
quality wines. Based on its Hungarian concept, 21 only carries
Hungarian wines with a distinctive character.
Pest-Buda (pest-buda.com) is a home-style Hungarian kitchen
that uses the best ingredients to create meals with love and care
- just like Grandma used to make. Like 21, Pest-Buda only sells
Hungarian wines that are rich in personality, with the staff happy
to recommend the perfect bottle to go with your meal.
Meanwhile, the star of Baltazár Grill & Wine Bar (baltazarbudapest.
com) is a handmade Josper charcoal grill, which turns out simple
yet creative dishes. These include gourmet street food, food for
sharing, serious meats and great vegetarian options. The meals
complement the staggering wine list, which boasts more than
200 selection inspired by the Carpathian Basin in particular.
Acclaimed British chef and TV personality Jamie Oliver opened an
outpost of his popular Jamie's Italian (jamiesitalian.hu) chain here
in 2016. Enjoy the Italian classics all prepared with a Jamie-twist.
34 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

DINING
DINING
RESTAURANTS with
gypsy music
100 ÉVES The “100 Years Old” restaurant is the
oldest in Budapest and in fact dates from 1831.
Traditional Hungarian and international cuisine
amidst rustic furnishing. Excellent gypsy music
in the evening hours. Pest V, Piarista u. 2, T: (+36
1) 230 0329, www.100evesetterem.hu, Map D5
CENTRÁL CAFÉ Old-fashioned splendor with
fine dining and tasty pastries. Open daily 8am-
11pm. Pest V, Károlyi Mihály u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266
2110, www.centralkavehaz.hu Map D6
DUNACORSO A restaurant on the river promenade
in Pest looking out at Castle Hill. The
kitchen is a mix of traditional Hungarian and
international dishes and there is an outstanding
Gypsy orchestra. Pest V, Vigadó tér 3, T: (+36
1) 318 6362, www.dunacorso.hu Map C5
KÁRPÁTIA Traditional Hungarian food in the
colorfully decorated surroundings of a former
monastery, open since 1877. A very renowned
Gypsy band plays nightly. Pest V, Ferenciek tere
7-8. T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu Map D6
KÉHLI Savor local specialties like bone-marrow
soup and pike-perch fillet while being serenaded
by Gypsy musicians at this century-old
restaurant. Buda III, Mókus u. 22. T: (+36 1) 250
4241, www.kehli.hu
ÚJ SIPOS HALÁSZKERT Situated at a charming
square in Old Buda (Óbuda), it offers traditional
Hungarian food and live gypsy music. Buda III,
Fő tér 6, T: (+36 1) 388 8745, www.ujsipos.hu
VÖRÖS POSTAKOCSI Since
1972, the “Red Mail Coach”
restaurant offers authentic
Hungarian cuisine and live
Gypsy music. Pest IX, Ráday u.
15. T: (+36 1) 217 6756, www.
vorospk.com Map E7
vegetarian
govinda Lacto-vegetarian delicacies, dishes of traditional
Indian taste and healthy food of reform
diet. Govinda restaurants are present in multiple
cities in Hungary, and food is prepared of pure,
fresh ingredients. Pest V, Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4.T:
(+36 1) 473-13-10, www.govinda.hu Map C4
napfÉEnYES An iconic vegan, vegetarian
restaurant in Budapest, Napfényes now awaits
guests at a new location with healthy and tasty
dishes and Hungarian flavors. Restaurant and
pastry shop: Pest V, Ferenciek tere 2. T: (+36 20)
311-0313, Map D6; Restaurant and Pizzeria: Pest
VII, Rózsa utca 39. T: (+ 36 20) 313-5555, www.
napfenyesetterem.hu Map F3
vega city Vegetarian fast food near the Hungarian
National Museum, offering fried vegetables,
stews, salads and a wide variety of healthy
meals for a quick bite. Pest V, Múzeum krt. 23-
25, www.vegacity.hu Map D6
vegan love Vegan fast food eatery serving
burgers, hot-dogs, fries, salads without animal
products, and creating delicacies like lentil
burgers or vegan chili dogs. Buda XI, Bartók
Béla út 9. www.veganlove.hu Map D7
Be cool, stay warm!
Enjoy ÉS Bisztró’s sweet and savoury waffles and signature drinks, like
Glühwein Rosé (mulled rosé wine), on the heated seasonal winter terrace
in downtown Budapest, on Fashion Street, by the Kempinski Hotel.
Open from 24th November to 31st December.
www.esbisztro.hu
Note: The terrace is closed on Mondays, 24th & 25th December.
ES 116x124 mm.indd 1 2017.11.21. 13:56:32
T I M E L E S S K I T C H E N
1 9 8 9
www.wheretraveler.com 35

ESSENTIALS
This section contains information on getting
around Budapest, plus many tips.
EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES
AUSTrian EmBASSY Pest VI, Benczúr u. 16.
T: (+36 1) 479 7010 Map F3
British EmBASSY Pest V, Harmincad u. 6.
T: (+36 1) 266 2888 Map D5
Canadian EmBASSY Buda II, Ganz u. 12 14. T:
(+36 1) 392 3360 Map B3
Croat ConsulATE Pest VI, Munkácsy Mihály u.
15. T: (+36 1) 354 1315 Map F2
dutch EmBASSY Buda II, Kapás u. 6-12.
T: (+36 1) 336 6300 Map B3
French EmBASSY Pest VI, Lendvay u. 27.
T: (+36 1) 374 1100 Map G2
German EmBASSY Buda I, Úri u. 64 66.
T: (+36 1) 488 3500 Map H3
israeli EmBASSY Buda II, Fullánk u. 8.
T: (+36 1) 392 6200
Romanian EmBASSY Pest XIV, Thököly út 72.
T: (+36 1) 384 7689 (near Map H3)
Russian EmBASSY Pest VI, Bajza u. 35.
T: (+36 1) 302 5230 Map F3
Serbian EmBASSY Pest VII, Dózsa György út
92/A. T: (+36 1) 322 9838 Map G3
Slovak EmBASSY Pest XIV, Stefánia út 22.
T: (+36 1) 460 9011 (near Map H3)
Slovenian EmBASSY Buda II, Cseppkő u. 68. T:
(+36 1) 438 5600
Swiss EmBASSY Pest XIV, Stefánia út 107.
T: (+36 1) 460 7040 Map H3
Ukrainian EmBASSY Buda XIV, Stefánia út 77. T:
(+36 1) 422 4120 Map H3
United STATES EmBASSY Pest V, Szabadság tér
12. T: (+36 1) 475 4400 Map D4
USEFUL informATION
loST AND foUND For articles lost on public
transportation, go to Pest VII, Akácfa u. 18.
T: (+36 1) 258 4636 Map F5
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES Call (+36 1) 311 1666
for an English or German speaker, or 104 for
Hungarian.
24 HOUR PHARMACIES Will dispense routine
medications without a prescription. Pest VI,
Teréz körút 41 (T: (+36 1) 311 4439), Buda II,
Frankel Leó u. 22 (T: (+36 1) 212 4406), Buda XII,
Alkotás út 1/B (T: (+36 1) 355 4691)
POLICE CRIME PREVENTION
Like in any major metropolis, visitors should take
precautions to protect themselves from criminal
activity. Do not leave belongings unattended, or
leave valuables in your car, and keep an eye on
your bags. In case you do become a crime victim,
please report the incident to the nearest police
station as soon as possible, or go directly to
the nearest hotel, where the staff can help you
file a report promptly with the proper authorities
closest to the scene of the crime. Otherwise,
Budapest’s emergency phone numbers are 107
and 112, or log onto www.police.hu/brfk for a
complete list of police stations.
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Dial 198.
INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR Dial 104
or (+36 1) 311 1666.
POST OFFICES The post offices at Keleti
(Map G4) and Nyugati (Map D-E3) stations are
open every day from 7am-9pm. To send a letter
via airmail, ask for légiposta (LAY ghee posh ta).
Telephone coDES Budapest landlines (+36 1),
T-Mobile: (+36 30), Telenor: (+36 20), Vodafone:
(+36 70)
looking around
CHRISTMAS PUPPETS – page 4
NAVIGATING BUDAPEST
The city of Budapest clusters around the great Danube River, which
slices it in half on a curving north-south axis. The hilly west bank
is Buda, the flat east bank is Pest – two totally separate towns until
1873, when they were united to form today’s capital city. Modern
Budapest is divided into 23 districts (called “kerület”), each designated
by a Roman numeral. The two districts you will spend most
time in are Buda I (Castle Hill, Buda’s old medieval center) and Pest
V (downtown Pest, a robust, confident, turn-of-the-century area
containing the Parliament, banks and financial centers, as well as the
best shopping). See our detailed map on pages 38-39 for a reliable
city reference.
TOURIST info offiCES Tourinform offices are
found around the city. The most useful is at
Deák Ferenc Square next to the McDonald’s.
Open daily 8am-8pm. Pest V, Sütő u. 2, T: (+36
1) 438 8080 Map D5. Another helpful office
is at Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 11. Open daily
noon-8pm. T: (+36 1) 322 4098 Map E4. Tourist
information offices are also open daily at Budapest
Airport. At all of these locations you can
purchase the Budapest Card, which covers all
public transportation and provides discounted
access to major museums, spas, restaurants,
and attractions. www.budapestinfo.hu
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATion Budapest has an
extensive public transportation system with
buses, trams, trolleys, and four metro lines.
Most lines operate daily from 4am to about
midnight, trams 4 and 6 operate all night as
do several night buses. Tickets are available
at ticket machines (also English) and booths
(“pénztár”) in metro underpasses. To validate
a ticket (not necessary for daily, long-term
passes, or season tickets), insert it into the
orange or red boxes at the metro entrances, or
aboard buses and trams. Tickets are not always
checked on buses and trams, but ticket inspectors,
who identify themselves with armbands
or ID cards, may board the vehicles to check
that passengers have validated tickets. Fines
can be paid on the spot. See www.bkk.hu
for more details. There are single and section
tickets, as well as a discount book (10 single
tickets), a 24-hour or 72-hour card (valid on all
forms of public transportation), and seven-day
, two-week and one-month passes.
photo: Attila Nagy
36 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

ESSENTIALS
My Favorite Budapest...
TRAIN STATionS
The four main train stations (“pályaudvar”)
are Nyugati (Map D-E3); Keleti (Map G4); Déli
(Map A4), and Kelenföldi (Off Map). All are
accessible by metro. Contact MÁV Hungarian
Railways Information for foreign and domestic
timetables. T: (+36 1) 444 4499 or (+36 40) 49
4949, www.mav-start.hu
TAXIS
Budapest taxis are famous for taking people
for a ride in more ways than one. Always insist
on using one of the companies listed below.
If you must hail a taxi, identify a reputable
taxi company by the car’s lights, signage, and
drivers’ identification, and ask for a price estimate
before entering the cab. All legitimate
Budapest taxi rates are are now standardized
for every taxi company.
6x6: (+36 1) 666 6666, www.6x6taxi.hu (lights
on taxi roofs are shaped like gambling dice);
Budapest Taxi: (+36 1) 777 7777, www.budapesttaxi.hu;
City Taxi: (+36 1) 211 1111, www.citytaxi.hu;
Fő Taxi: (+36 1) 222 2222, www.fotaxi.hu;
Max Taxi: (+36 1) 222 2233, www.maxtaxi.hu;
Taxi 4: (+36 1) 444 4444, www.taxi4.hu;
Tele 5 Taxi: (+36 1) 555 5555, www.taxi5.hu
RENTAL CARS
Europcar: With a simple booking system and a
great selection of vehicles, Europcar is the perfect
choice for your Budapest Airport Terminal
2b car rental. We have hourly, daily, short term,
weekly, monthly and long term deals available
in this location. T: (+36 1) 421 8370 www.
europcar.com/location/hungary/budapest/
budapest-airport-terminal-2B
Fox Autorent: A dependable and reliable car
rental company that usually offers specials.
Service includes unlimited mileage, AC, insurance,
and airport and home delivery. T: (+36 1)
382 9000, www.fox-autorent.com
Hertz Rent-A-Car: International Reservation
Center Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Vecsés, Hertz
u. 2. T: (+36 1) 296 0999 or 296 0991; Budapest
Airport Terminal 2B Open daily 8am to 10pm.
T: (+36 1) 296 7171; www.hertz.hu
Sixt Hungary: Operating out of a facility in
the central buildin of Budapest Airport, the
SkyCourt, this car rental agency offers tailormade
deals for its customers. Open Mon-Fri
7am-7pm and Sat-Sun 8am-6pm. T: (+36 1) 451
4227, www.sixt.hu
bicycle rentalS
Ask your hotel concierge for information
about bike rental service to deliver bicycles
directly to your hotel.
Public bikes:
There are green Bubi bikes at 112 stations
city-wide. They are pretty heavy but the first
30 minutes of each use are free of charge.
Passes valid from 24 hours. Registration is
required, see molbubi.bkk.hu
Private bike rentals:
Bike-and-Relax: tours and rental, Andrássy
Street 7, www.bike-and-relax.com Map D4
BikeBase: Podmaniczky utca 19. (near Nyugati
station), www.bikebase.hu Map D3
HiBike: Apáczai Csere János u. 3, www.
hi-bike.hu Map D5
BOAT SERVICES
Several small public transport boats are going
up and down the river during day light hours,
docking at stations in Pest and Buda alternately
(see Map). The time schedule (www.bkk.hu/
en/timetables and click the boat services icon)
is subject to change depending on weather
and water level conditions.
AIRPorT TransporTATion
The Budapest Airport has two international
terminals, Terminal 2A and 2B. See www.bud.
hu/english for complete airport information.
Airport Minibus Service miniBUD: A shared
ride service that picks passengers up at any
address in Budapest. For travel to hotels or
within the city center, a ride costs HUF 3,900
per person one way, and HUF 6,900 for a return
trip. Arrange your ride in advance. T: (+36
1) 55 00000, www.minibud.hu/en
Airport Taxi Service: Multiple taxi companies
drive Budapest Airport passengers to and from
all city destinations. They offer fixed maximum
prices depending on the distance traveled
from the airport, with HUF 4,500 being an average
price for an airport to city center transfer.
Public Transportation: There is a direct bus
(no.100E) every half hour between the airport
and Deák square. Another bus (200E) takes
you to the ‘blue line’ metro (Kőbánya-Kispest)
that goes into the city.
WHAT MAKES HUNGARY’S TOP
HOSPITALITY PROFESSIONALS DELIGHTED
TO LIVE IN BUDAPEST? CONCIERGE
GYÖRGY ÁFRA OF THE LÁNCHÍD 11
DESIGN HOTEL SHARES A FEW OF
THE FEATURES HE CHERISHES MOST
FROM THROUGHOUT THE HUNGARIAN
METROPOLIS.
… MARKET In the festive season the
different Christmas markets in Budapest
are a must. The air is filled with the smell
of Hungarian delicacies like chimney cake
and mulled wine, the stalls are packed with
different handcrafted ornaments, design
objects and accessories. My two favorite
markets are the Vörösmarty square market
and the one in front of the Basilica. They
are in walking distance from each other
and offer excellent food as well. It is a nice
festive program to get a mulled wine or hot
chocolate and join the Christmas bustle.
…MUSEUM I always recommend the
Aquincum Museum, which shows the
remains of the Roman settlement Aquincum.
They have very interesting temporary and
permanent exhibitions, and the museum can
be easily reached by HÉV, a suburban railway
line. It is on the way to the picturesque city
of Szentendre, visiting both of these sights
makes a very nice day trip.
… CAFÉ I highly recommend coffee lovers
to visit the Frei Café. It is a local café chain,
founded by a Hungarian TV host. They offer
a huge variety of different types of coffees,
and guest can also choose by regions – the
big maps on the walls help to pick the beans.
They have cafés all over the city, including
one in Váci street. I also love their hot
chocolate, which is the perfect drink to warm
up after a cold day spent exploring the city.
György Áfra is a member of
the prestigious Clefs d’Or
organization of professional
concierges, who strive to
accommodate every guest’s
request, as their motto states, “In Service
Through Friendship”.
www.wheretraveler.com 37

MAPS
Széchenyi
tér
Radisson Blu
Béke Hotel
Continental Hotel
Boscolo Budapest
38 WHERE BUDAPEST I DECEMBER 2017

MAPS
II. János Pál pápa
tér
II. JÁNOS PÁL PÁPA TÉR
FŐVÁM TÉR
Fraser
Residence
SZENT GELLÉRT TÉR
Széll Kálmán
tér
SZÉLL K.
TÉR
Leonardo Hotel
Budapest
MÓRICZ ZSIGMOND KÖRTÉR
Széll Kálmán tér
ÚJBUDA-KÖZPONT
Pillangó utca
Népstadion
Keleti pályaudvar
II. János Pál
pápa tér
Blaha L. tér
Astoria
Vörösmarty
tér Ferenciek tere
Kálvin tér
Rákóczi tér
Corvin
negyed
Fővám tér
Szent Gellért tér
Ferenc körút
Nagyvárad tér
Népliget
Ecseri út
Pöttyös utca
Klinikák
Boráros
tér
Móricz Zsigmond körtér
Közvágóhíd
Újbuda-központ
Beöthy u.
Kén u.
Bikás park
Kelenföld vasútállomás
INDEX OF MAIN STREETS
II. János Pál pápa tér G5
Alkotmány utca C3-D3
Alkotás utca A4-5
Állatkerti körút G1-2
Andrássy út D4-G6
Apáczai Cs. J. utca C5-D5
Arany János utca C4-D4
Attila út
B5-C6
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út D3-5
Balassi Bálint utca C2-3
Baross tér
G4
Batthyány tér B3
Bécsi kapu tér A3-4
Belgrád rakpart C5-D6
Bem rakpart C2-5
Bem tér
B2
Benczúr utca F3-G2
Blaha Lujza tér F5
Clark Ádám tér C5
Deák Ferenc tér D5
Deák Ferenc utca D5
Dísz tér
B4
Dohány utca E5-G4
Dózsa György út F1-H4
Döbrentei tér C6
Erzsébet körút E4-F5
Erzsébet tér D5
Falk Miksa utca C3-D2
Ferenc körút F7
Ferenciek tere D5
Fő utca B2-5
Fortuna utca B4
Harmincad utca D5
Hess András tér B4
Hősök tere
G2
Horánszky utca F6
Irányi utca
D6
Jókai tér
E4
József Attila utca C5-D5
József körút F5-7
József nádor tér D5
Kálvin tér
E6
Károly körút D5-E5
Károlyi Mihály utca D6
Kazinczy utca E4-5
Kecskeméti utca E6
Király utca D5-F3
Klauzál tér
E4
Kossuth tér
C3
Kossuth Lajos utca D5-E5
Krisztina körút B5-C6
Lehel tér
E1
Liszt Ferenc tér E4
Madách tér D5
Március 15. tér D6
Margit körút B2
Múzeum körút E5-6
Nyugati tér D3
Oktogon
E4
Olof Palme sétány G2-A3
Országház utca A4-B4
Petőfi Sándor utca D5
Rákóczi tér
F6
Rákóczi út E5-G5
Semmelweis utca D5-E5
Szabadság tér D4
Szent Gellért tér D7
Szent Gellért rakpart
C6-D7
Szentháromság tér B4
Szent István körút C2-D3
Széchenyi tér C4
Széll Kálmán tér A3
Táncsics Mihály utca B4
Teréz körút D3-E3
Üllői út
E6-G7
Váci út
D3-E1
Váci utca D5-6
Városligeti fasor F3-G3
Vigadó tér C5-D5
Vörösmarty tér D5
Wesselényi utca E5-F4
Ybl Miklós tér C5
www.wheretraveler.com 39

NATIONAL MUSEUM
This imposing neoclassical building houses
an archeological exhibition (prehistory to 800
AD) and an exhibition covering the period
from the founding of Hungary to modern
times (mostly in Hungarian). There is a story
that the 1848 uprising against the autocratic
Habsburg emperor started with the reading
of a poem on the steps of this very building,
but that might be an urban legend. Pest VIII,
Múzeum krt. 14-16. Map E6
Where It’s At Budapest
ROYAL PALACE
Several castle incarnations stood on this
oft-besieged hilltop, the seat of kings and
emperors or their representatives. The
current green-domed version is a post-war
reconstruction that was never occupied
by royalty. It houses several museums and
its courtyards are also used for festivals.
Wonderful views over the Danube and Pest.
Buda I, Castle Hill. Map C5
PARLIAMENT
This neo-gothic palace was built in 1896 for a
country more than twice the current size and
still ruled by counts, lords and princes. It is the
most expensive building ever constructed
in Hungary, decorated with lots of marble,
40 kilograms of gold leaf, as well as statues,
paintings and other works by the best artists
of the day. The central dome houses the
crown of King Stephen. Pest V, Kossuth Lajos tér
1, Map C3, www.parliament.hu
CHAIN BRIDGE
The first permanent bridge crossing the
Danube and uniting the separate towns of
Pest and Buda was opened only in 1849. It
was built by two Brits, architect William Clark
and engineer Adam Clark (no relation), on the
initiative of Count István Széchenyi, a great
modernizer and liberal politician of the day.
The more than 200 meter long suspension
bridge was considered an engineering
wonder and became a symbol for a modern
Hungary. Map C5
CENTRAL MARKET
The brightly colored tiled roof of this huge
bazaar shelters a cornucopia of food stands,
offering everything from fresh produce to
pálinka brandy. Downstairs, vendors sell fresh
fish, game, and – very Hungarian – all sorts
of pickled and fermented products. Upstairs,
vendors offer traditional gifts like woodworks,
fine lace, and other souvenirs. Pest IX, Vámház
krt. 1-3. Map E7
HEROES’ SQUARE
Budapest’s premier national ceremony site
is dominated by the Millenary Monument,
with statues of the seven headmen of the
Hungarian tribes that, according to modern
myth, conquered the Hungarian lands in
896. They pose at the foot of a column with
Archangel Gabriel on the top and in front of
a semicircular colonnade bearing statues of
historical figures. Pest XIV, Hősök tere. Map G2
40 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I DECEMBER 2013 2017