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American Iron Magazine December 2017

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the bike’s ECM. This screen doesn’t<br />

stay on the bike. It’s provided to give<br />

you access to the ECM, so you can alter<br />

the ECM’s fuel maps, etc. without a<br />

computer. We’ve used a Power Vision<br />

tuner on many <strong>American</strong> <strong>Iron</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

projects and have always gotten excellent<br />

results.<br />

As always, the accompanying dyno<br />

chart shows two sets of horsepower and<br />

torque readings. The baseline set show<br />

what we had after we installed a S&S<br />

Stealth air cleaner (as shown in our last<br />

issue) and a S&S header package and<br />

<br />

that we’ll show you how to install in the<br />

January/February 2018 issue of <strong>American</strong><br />

<strong>Iron</strong> Garage. The second set of power<br />

readings show the power increases we<br />

got after installing the new 465C cam<br />

and resetting the fuel mixtures using a<br />

Power Vision tuner.<br />

As he did for our Stealth air cleaner<br />

install and test, Chris Cowden at Bayside<br />

Harley-Davidson in Portsmouth,<br />

Virginia, will be bolting on the parts,<br />

tuning the engine, and running the<br />

dyno for this article. Longtime readers<br />

know we’ve done several projects with<br />

Chris and the crew at Bayside over the<br />

years. Bayside H-D is an excellent shop<br />

with service techs that know their way<br />

around Harley-Davidsons.<br />

7<br />

Chris reinstalls the stock cam support plate using the<br />

four stock short bolts and the oil pump using the four<br />

stock long bolts, some S&S-supplied threadlocker, and a<br />

3/16" Allen. He torques the bolts to 90-120 in-lbs.<br />

4<br />

After checking that the bearing is at the same depth as<br />

the stock one with a micrometer, Chris slips the new<br />

S&S 465 camshaft into the new bearing.<br />

8<br />

Chris then reinstalls the stock cam sprocket spacer onto<br />

the end of the camshaft.<br />

2<br />

To measure how deep the inner cam bearing is in the<br />

right case, Chris places a steel straightedge across<br />

the case’s gasket surface and uses a dial indicator to<br />

measure the distance to the inner cam bearing.<br />

5<br />

Chris then checks that the stock cam support plate is<br />

perfectly flat using a steel straightedge.<br />

9<br />

Chris positions both sprockets onto their shafts and,<br />

using the stock bolts and washers, secures them to<br />

their shafts. Using a sprocket locking tool, he torques<br />

the pinion bolt to 24 ft-lbs. and the cam sprocket bolt<br />

to 34 ft-lbs.<br />

3<br />

After Chris removes the stock inner bearing and coats<br />

the outer wall and rollers of the new S&S bearing with<br />

oil, he installs the new bearing (number side facing<br />

out) using a H-D removal and installation tool.<br />

6<br />

If you didn’t remove the oil pump, this is the only S&Ssupplied<br />

O-ring you need to replace. If you did remove<br />

it for some reason, replace all of the O-rings now<br />

exposed by the oil pump. Then reinstall the pump.<br />

10<br />

With a steel straightedge across the tooth section of<br />

both sprockets, Chris uses a flat feeler gauge to check<br />

if the sprockets are aligned. Our gap is 0.006"; the<br />

maximum is 0.009", so we’re good.<br />

AIMag.com Issue #358 / <strong>American</strong> <strong>Iron</strong> / 83

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