GOASIAPLUS February 2018

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Cheongsam FROM LEFT Theresa meticulously threading the thread into her traditional sewing machine; Theresa with one of her floral cheongsams. “A lot of it, Theresa said, is “heart work”. If you don’t love what you do, you won’t be able to do it well” That sealed it and she began working as a permanent employee. Within two years, Theresa had learned all the skills she could from the Shanghai seamster. Making A Name Better opportunities were opening up, so Theresa moved on to work with another Shanghai seamster who now paid her RM75 per month, double from what she was earning. As her skills improved and she began making a name for herself, she opened up her own business at a rented place and was earning a steady income. Her customers ranged from the late Tan Sri Lim Goh Tong’s wife, to the wife of the late Mr Loke Wan Tho, business magnate and millionaire of the 1960’s. “At that time, only the rich people wore the cheongsam. Only after a while did the common people embrace the idea of wearing the cheongsam on a regular basis as well,” said Theresa. Her business’ highest point was when she had six workers under her, all these in her 20’s. Sixty years on, she continues her business today on a smaller scale at her daughter’s home where she charges a flat rate of RM300 per piece of tailored cheongsam, not including the fabric costs borne by the customer. The ‘Sam’ Of Her Life The secret to her success is her perfectionism, professionalism and determination to only do her best. To illustrate this, Theresa shared, “I have had collaborations with some designers and sometimes I would be given measurements via a phone call. I got really upset and told them that I will never sew a piece of cheongsam without measuring the customer personally, because it will definitely impact the fitting of the cheongsam.” This, Theresa shared, is the secret to a good cheongsam - the perfect fitting to the wearer’s body form, which requires intricacy in the seamster or seamstress’ sewing skills. A lot of it, Theresa said, is “heart work”. If you don’t love what you do, you won’t be able to do it well. “I feel a very strong sense of accomplishment every time my customer fits perfectly into a piece of cheongsam I sew - which is usually the second and final time I meet them,” said Theresa, alluding to how perfect her cutting and fitting are. None To Pass The Baton To As Theresa is much older now with a number of health issues, it takes her two to three days to complete a piece of cheongsam, even though she works from 2:00 a.m. up to 8:00 p.m. each day. Unfortunately, like many traditional trades, the 60-year cheongsam-making trade by Theresa may end at her generation, as her children are not interested to continue the business, nor does she have any students willing to learn the trade. “My grandchild asked me, ‘Popo, why do you still sew cheongsam? My friends can easily get one at Petaling Street for RM30.’ I told them that the retail ones are different and those looking for quality, classic cheongsam will continue to come to me,” said Theresa confidently. She added, “I really hope that someone is willing to learn the skills from me, totally free of charge, so that it can be passed on to the next generation.” ✂ 28 · WWW.<strong>GOASIAPLUS</strong>.COM
Cheongsam The Making of a Cheongsam BY THERESA WONG 1 2 3 4 The customer buys 2 kinds of fabric of her choice, on average around 2.5 to 4 metres per Cheongsam, depending on the person’s size and height. The first piece is the fabric she would be donning as her Cheongsam, while the second piece of fabric is the lining underneath, to prevent visible undergarment lines. Common materials are silk, cotton, or lace. Theresa would take the customer’s body measurements from the neck (for the collar), shoulder width, bust, waist, girth, hip, arm circumference and height. The customer needs to let Theresa know if she has any specific design in mind or otherwise Theresa would perform the usual. The only accessories used on the cheongsam are the flower buttons. Theresa would draw the measurements on a tracing paper and later, transfer the drawing to the lining cloth with the tailor’s chalk, and subsequently the lining cloth will be cut together with the main cheongsam fabric. The two pieces of cloth will be sewn together loosely as she begins the work of sewing the cheongsam and also sewing the piping onto the cheongsam. After all the sewing, she also sews her own traditional flower buttons from scratch (using piping). Yes, all these flower buttons and phoenix buttons are sewn from scratch, not bought! Once the Cheongsam is completed, the customer pays the second and final visit to Theresa’s home for the fitting. Fun Cheongsam Facts ‘Cheongsam’ is the Cantonese Chinese version of the word ‘Qipao’ which means the same thing in Mandarin Chinese. You are advised to wear the same bra that you will wear with your future, yet-to-be-sewn cheongsam when your seamstress is taking your measurements. This is to prevent inaccurate fitting later on. Theresa’s business was so lucratively convincing that her daughter once used her record book full of customer contacts and fabric record as a bank loan guarantee! Although Theresa is not digitally literate, she said that many people would call her and tell her that they found her on “the web” but she said, “I still don’t know what a ‘web’ is!” WWW.<strong>GOASIAPLUS</strong>.COM · 29
Page 1: FEB 2018 | ISSUE 21 WWW.GOASIAPLUS.
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GOASIAPLUS February 2018

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