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Haute-Couture-Spring-Summer-2018

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1/ Martin Margiela, gilet, Automne-Hiver<br />

1989-1990<br />

47 porcelain and earthenware splinters,<br />

silver metal wire and blackened metal wire<br />

© Julien Vidal / Galliera / Roger-Viollet<br />

2/ Martin Margiela, “Incognito” glasses,<br />

<strong>Spring</strong>-<strong>Summer</strong> 2008<br />

Black plastic.<br />

© Julien Vidal / Galliera / Roger-Viollet<br />

3/ Martin Margiela, galvanized shirt collar,<br />

<strong>Spring</strong>-<strong>Summer</strong> 2003<br />

Cotton poplin covered with<br />

galvanized steel<br />

© Françoise Cochennec / Galliera /<br />

Roger-Viollet<br />

4/ Martin Margiela, vest, <strong>Spring</strong>-<strong>Summer</strong><br />

1990<br />

Lacerated and glued advertising posters,<br />

white cotton inner lining<br />

© Françoise Cochennec / Galliera /<br />

Roger-Viollet<br />

5/ Martin Margiela, Tabi soles,<br />

<strong>Spring</strong>-<strong>Summer</strong> 1996<br />

Black leather<br />

© Françoise Cochennec / Galliera /<br />

Roger-Viollet<br />

6/ Martin Margiela, top made of upside<br />

down wigs, Fall-Winter 2005-2006<br />

Synthetic hair, putty colored leather<br />

© Julien Vidal / Galliera / Roger-Viollet<br />

6<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

1<br />

MARGIELA / GALLIERA 1989 -2009<br />

Dal 3 marzo fino al prossimo<br />

15 luglio questa mostra racconterà<br />

la parabola artistica<br />

(dalla primavera/estate del<br />

1989 fino alla primavera/estate<br />

del 2009) del celebre designer<br />

senza volto che tanto promosse<br />

l’idea di anonimato, sfidando al<br />

contempo tutta l’estetica fashion<br />

del suo tempo. Più di 130<br />

capi, video di sfilate, creazioni<br />

d’archivio e installazioni speciali<br />

permetteranno di guardare<br />

con occhio diverso uno<br />

dei più influenti stilisti contemporanei<br />

che ama costruire<br />

un abito decostruendolo<br />

dall’interno fino a evidenziarne<br />

le parti nascoste e non finite.<br />

From March 3rd to July 15th,<br />

<strong>2018</strong>, this exhibition traces<br />

the career, from spring-summer<br />

1989 to spring-summer<br />

2009, of the designer without<br />

a face who promoted anonymity,<br />

challenging the structure<br />

of the fashion aesthetics<br />

of his time. More than 130<br />

silhouettes, videos of fashion<br />

shows, archive creations, and<br />

special installations for an unprecedented<br />

look at one of the<br />

most influential contemporary<br />

fashion designers and his way<br />

of constructing a garment by<br />

deconstructing it exposing the<br />

inside and the unfinished parts.<br />

127

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