MAINSAIL ISSUE 8_LOW3

Cruising Destination
Sunset sanctuary:
Finding exclusivity on land in Santorini
By Elizabeth Finney
The world-renowned view out from
Santorini’s coastline peppered with white
sugar cube houses may be one of the most
beautiful in the Med – meaning it’s also one
of the most crowded. Elizabeth Finney drops
anchor and goes in search of the perfect
uninterrupted sunset.
The coastal village of Oia, Santorini.
As it’s difficult to drop anchor and watch the sunset from on board, I escape
the busy port to Erosantorini, a private retreat perched on a cliff overlooking
the caldera. It’s the ultimate hideaway, boasting classical and contemporary
Santorini style, perfect for when the hustle and bustle on the rest of the island is
too much. “People come here for the privacy. The problem with Santorini is that
you go somewhere, and there are people all around you – you cannot be alone,”
explains executive host, Takis Skolarikis. “Many people do not see Greece – they
go to places in Greece but they do not see it.” His passion for Greek culture is
infectious, and it is infused in every aspect of the Erosantorini experience. The
five whitewashed suites are simple yet luxurious, each offering a cool refuge from
the Mediterranean sun.
Takis is an effortlessly expert host and regularly appears with treats and snacks –
one evening, he appears on the pool terrace with a glass of Champagne, hoping
it might add to my sunset experience. The familiar kaleidoscope of colour
engulfs the caldera, visible over the edge of the glassy infinity pool – I sip bubbles
enjoying one of the best views on the island. All I can hear is the sound of the
distant waves far below and as the last sliver of gold disappears over the horizon,
rich magentas and indigos sweep the sky, revealing a web of stars. This is an
experience best shared with family, close friends or partners, with nobody else
to interrupt the peace.
Hiking to Oia over the mountains in Santorini, with a
view of the Caldera
According to Greek myth, Santorini, formerly known as Thera, was created
when Euphemus, son of Poseidon, threw a clod of earth from nearby Anafi into
the sea, because of a dream he’d had about making love to a nymph. Throughout
recent history, the island has been dubbed a haven for couples and creatives –
especially Oia. While still charming, the blue-roofed cliff side town is no longer
Santorini’s best kept secret, though if you know where to look, you can still enjoy
a snapshot of its Bohemian heyday.
The trick is to forgo the famous sunset – even in low season I’m buffeted by
swathes of tourists at the old fort ruins, so I retreat to Meteor Café, a tiny, domeceilinged
spot tucked away from the masses, littered with Greek and Turkish nicknacks.
Sipping a crisp glass of local white, I watch the sun descend uninterrupted
from the minuscule balcony, nibbling at peanuts with a cool breeze bouncing
off the patterned tiles. The locals appear at Marykay’s – one of the best bars
in the Mediterranean – after 11pm, long after tourists have boarded coaches
to make their dinner reservations. Here, you can drink until the small hours,
sharing stories, listening to music and meeting the characters of Oia. One such
individual is local musician Yannis Pantazis, who makes and plays traditional
instruments, using them all – with the help of his audience – to tell stories from
Greek mythology. The quiet night came alive with his singing, lyre and an array
of drums and bells while he tunefully retold the tale of how the Apollo came to
be the god of music.
The coastal village of Oia, Santorini. Picture courtesy of
Shutterstock.com / fokke baarssen
The sunset at Erosantorini
Breakfast at Erosantorini can be anything guests desire, though I am committed
to the Cyclades Islands way of life. Settled al fresco at a sheltered wooden table,
I’m presented a bowl of delicious Greek yoghurt, peppered with pollen from the
Erosantorini bees, their honey to one side. The estate also has it’s own kitchen
garden, baked goods, olive oil and a gorgeous wine cellar, which is concealed
beneath a sliding trap door a stones throw away from the on-site chapel.
Additionally, there is a spa, one of the best in the Mediterranean, where you can
request any treatment, perfect for after a private Pilates class on the patio or a
stint in the steam room.
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