QUILTsocial | Issue 11

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Diagram 2
ISSUE11
UILTsocial
…eat, sleep, quilt, repeat
.com
essential tips for
* quilting with a twin needle
* embroidering a miniature quilt
* straight lines before
free-motion quilting
* working safely on the bias
* making a modern quilt out of
traditional log cabin blocks
and batiks
* PLUS *
Embroidered Miniature Quilt
Berries & Cream Table Runner
Visit QUILTsocial.com to download
a PDF version of this issue.
Modern Meets Traditional
Banyan Batik Quilt

editor's letter
follow me on
One of our QUILTsocial
readers once commented,
'These machines are just
getting awesomer and
awesomer!' I agree with her,
for all of us who engage in
quilting and sewing, we are
spoiled! So many features
have been added to make
our sewing experience
easier and effortless so
we can focus on being
creative. Let the machines
do everything for you!
Granted, there are different
price points, but even in
the simpler machines, the
technology has advanced
to make sewing that much
smoother.
In this issue, let's play
with the twin needle! Julie
Plotniko, an inspiring quilter
and quilting teacher, has
written an in-depth look
all you ever need to know
about quilting with the twin
needle. Add dimension to
your quilting and learn what
all the numbers mean on
the twin needle box, so can
finally choose the right one
for your project.
Included in a plentiful
repertoire of patterns in
this issue are two quilts
that could be described as
refreshing! Paul Leger's quilt
that defies modern quilting
by breaking some of the
modern quilting rules for a
truly unique quilt pattern,
and Claire Haillot's table
runner Berries & Cream,
which captivates everyone's
interest. This is what
happens when we let the
sewing machines do all the
work, with features that take
the slog out of sewing and
quilting intricate patterns.
What's with the HSTs on this
page? I'll tell you all about
this quilt in progress in the
next issue.
Cheerfully,
3

Q
QUILTsocial
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ALL of the above!
.com
eat, sleep, quilt, repeat
* projects
* techniques
* product reviews
ALL
FREE!
Visit QUILTsocial.com
and download our free ebook
Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!
PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR
Carla A. Canonico
carla@QUILTsocial.com
PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES
John De Fusco
john@QUILTsocial.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS
John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico
BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS
Christine Baker
FairfieldRoadDesigns.com
Claire Haillot
quiltingwithclaire.com
Julie Plotniko
juliesquiltclass.blogspot.com
Paul Léger
paullegerquilts.com
GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN
Carla A. Canonico
carla@QUILTsocial.com
Sondra Armas
WEB and IT Support
Alejandro Araujo
WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com
Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial
Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial
WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY
QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle
Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at
https://QUILTsocial.com.
A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available
for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it
at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.
QUILT SHOPS
If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please
email john@QUILTsocial.com.
EDITORIAL
Designers and other contributors who would like to be
considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com
with a brief description of your work and your proposed project
for the magazine.
©2018 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 11. ISSN 2368-5913.
No part of this publication may be reproduced without written
permission from the publisher.
All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for
private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material
owned by their respective creators or owners.
Advertiser Index
72 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine
57 Brother
70 Business Directory
59 Coats
39 Eat Your Heart Out Tours
49 Gütermann Creativ
02 Husqvarna Viking
67 Northcott
71 PFAFF
04 QUILTsocial
69 WonderFil Specialty Threads
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QUILTsocial
issue 11
c o n t e n t s
06
08
18
28
40
50
54
60
64
Hooked on Books
Everything you ever wanted to know about quilting with a twin needle
Embroidering a miniature quilt on THE Dream Machine 2
Berries & Cream, quilting with the NEW PFAFF creative icon
Using Northcott Banyan Batiks in a modern quilt
Tree of Life Photo Frame
Funky Lovebirds Bolster Pillow
Wedding Memories
Flash of Flamingo Quilt
Q
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.com | issue 11 5

hooked on books
Walking Foot Quilting Designs
Melissa Marginet
A brilliant quilter, Melissa Marginet has compiled in
this golden nugget of a book, step by step diagrams
and pictures to help you quilt your quilt. The
designs shown can be made as simple or complex
as described in clear and comprehensive diagrams.
Walking Foot Quilting Designs will become for you a
reference book you’ll keep by your sewing machine
and quilt with confidence using its creative guidance.
100 Pages, ISBN 978-0-9952741-0-5
Self-published
www.melissamarginet.ca
The T-Shirt Quilt Book
Lindsay Conner and Carla Hegeman Crim
Turn treasured tees into something brand new–a
T-shirt quilt! Capture the memories of a special
time, starting with a quick pillow project or a baby
quilt made from onesies, and work your way up
to bed quilts in multiple sizes. Learn the secrets
to choosing shirts, centering and cutting out
around a logo, working with shirts that are too
small, and interfacing knit fabrics with finesse. You'll
practice your skills with 8 projects ranging from
simple squares to pieced stars and triangles, plus
easy machine-appliquéd motifs. With beginnerfriendly
designs and truly unique layouts to entice
experienced quilters, this essential guide to T-shirt
quilts covers all the bases.
80 Pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-530-8
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
Rainbow Quilts for Scrap Lovers
Judy Gauthier
You'll actually be hungry for more leftovers
Are you swimming in fabric scraps from sewing
garments, bags, and quilts? Learn to rescue and
reuse fabric leftovers with 12 stunning, colorful quilt
patterns for scrap lovers. Judy Gauthier teaches you
her indispensable system for cutting usable squares
from real, oddly shaped scraps, not just strips or
precuts! Cut scraps into 3½", 4½", and 5½" squares, a
magical combination for both beginning quilters
and more advanced piecers, using traditional rotary
cutting or Judy's fast2cut Simple Square Templates.
Judy’s clever organizing and quilt-assembly tips will
help you uncover hidden treasures from your stash.
96 Pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-461-5
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
Visual Guide to Free-Motion Quilting Feathers
Natalia Bonner
Put a feather in your quilting cap
Take the fear out of quilting feathers! Explore 68
modern feather designs with step-by-step guidance
from award-winning quilter Natalia Bonner. Quilt
stunning feathers on a variety of blocks and borders
with this beginner-friendly, visual guide. Unlike
traditional feather quilting, which relies on exactness
and precision, Natalia’s ideas will help you break
away from perfection and find creativity in your
quilting practice. Use your home sewing machine or
a longarm to free-motion feathers with confidence,
adding a truly elegant finish to today’s modern quilts.
144 pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-506-3
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
Sew Yourself a Merry Little Christmas
Mary Hertel
Pick your project then pick your block: mix and match
8 super-easy projects with 16 adorable paper-pieced
blocks just for Christmas. Simply follow Mary’s clearly
illustrated instructions to create fun and fresh holiday
blocks. Plus, use her time-saving technique for paper
piecing with less waste to create custom winter decor
ranging from tree skirts and table toppers to gift bags,
mug rugs, pot holders, and more. Sew by number and
watch your image emerge!
56 Pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-528-5
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
New York Beauties & Flying Geese
Carl Hentsch
Dramatic curves and angles for today's
adventurous quilter
Become a skilled foundation piecer with New York
Beauty blocks and arcs of Flying Geese that amaze! Carl
Hentsch simplifies a technique loved by many with his
straightforward approach to curved piecing, foundation
piecing, and simple machine applique. Stitch your
way through 31 architectural block patterns, ideal for
advanced beginners and intermediate quilters. Then it's
time to practice on 10 full-size quilts and 27 bonus pillow
projects with lively color combinations to provide
movement and drama.
96 pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-176-8
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
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hooked on books
Intuitive Color & Design, Updated 2nd Edition
Jean Wells
Jean Wells gives you the assignment of your life: put
away your ruler and use your inner vision to design
and piece spectacular, free-form quilts you'd never
have guessed you could create. In this updated
edition of best-selling Intuitive Color & Design, Jean’s
workshop assignments get your creative juices
flowing, giving you challenges to expand your
quilting horizons. Start by learning to see line and
color; study the nuts and bolts of design; develop
your color work and composition; and when you get
stuck, there’s expert advice on problem solving. You
will never see quiltmaking in the same way again.
112 pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-524-7
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
True Blue Quilts
Annette Plog
Sew 15 Reproduction Quilts Honoring 19th-
Century Designs
The blue-and-white quilt is one of the most desired
antiques, and many can still be found in good
condition. Learn the history of blue fabrics used
during the 19th century, from the first production
of indigo fabrics through the invention of the
sewing machine, and up to the development of
synthetic dyes in the late 1800s. Get inspired to
design and create your own heirlooms, stitching
up 15 historically accurate reproduction quilts from
traditional blocks.
80 pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-340-3
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
Wonderful One Patch Quilts
Sarah Nephew and Marci Baker
A new angle on classic quilt designs
What can you sew with a 60° ruler and a simple,
repeated shape? The possibilities are endless!
Favorite authors Sara Nephew and Marci Baker are
back with 20 beautifully bold one-patch quilts made
from triangles, half-hexagons, diamonds and more.
With their eye-catching color placement and clever
pieced units like half-triangles and quarter-hexagons,
no two quilts look alike. For even more variety, pick
your favorite method – working from scraps or strip
piecing yardage – to create an array of quilts from
wallhangings to full-size beauties.
128 pages, ISBN 978-161745-467-7
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
Charm School – 18 Quilts from 5” Squares
Vanessa Goertzen of Lella Boutique
Mind your p’s and q’s... precuts and quilt blocks, that
is! Popular designer Vanessa Goertzen puts charm
squares to the test with 18 projects using precut 5" x
5" squares. Start with fresh, simple blocks and build
your skills to sew versatile snowballs, stars, flying
geese, and more. Using precuts from your stash or
cutting your own charms from scraps or yardage,
you’ll learn tips to take the guesswork out of piecing.
Quilters of all types will fall in love with these quick,
clever, and clean designs!
128 pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-281-0
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
Block Genius
Sue Voegtlin
An amazing new quilting book, truly perfect for
quilters of all levels…. With 201 pieced block designs,
each in three different sizes (6”, 9” and 12”) with
sample settings…an exceptional reference tool.” All
the math is done for you!
144 pages, ISBN 978-1-935726-90-6
Fox Chapel Publishing
thomasallen.ca
Artful Log Cabin Quilts
Katie Pasquini Masopust
Take the first steps to becoming an art quilter with
popular teacher and best-selling author Katie Pasquini
Masopust. Starting with an inspiration photo or
painting, choose fabrics to create your own artistic
log cabin quilts. Learn to navigate visual pathways
and composition, applying easy techniques and
experimenting with color. Student work is presented,
showing that anyone can create an art quilt! Design
and make your masterpiece with freeform log cabin
blocks using this versatile method.
80 pages, ISBN 978-1-61745-450-9
C&T Publishing
ctpub.com
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Everything you ever wanted to know
about quilting with a twin needle
Julie Plotniko
The numbers at the bottom of the
package tell you the space between the
two needles and the size of the needles.
On the left is the distance between the
two needles. In this case 4.0. The larger
the number the larger the space.
On the right is the size of the needle.
Once again, the larger the number the
larger the needle.
This one is a size 100 so it’s quite thick
and has a large eye.
A variety of SCHMETZ twin needles appropriate to quilting
In this five part series we’ll explore some
of the different ways that you can use
a SCHMETZ twin or double needle for
quilting on your home sewing machine.
The possibilities are endless so let’s have
a little fun!
What is a twin needle and how do I use it
on my home sewing machine?
A twin needle, also known as a double
needle, is a single shank with two
needles attached. It’s used to make two
parallel rows of simultaneous stitches.
This needle is attached to your home
sewing machine the same way as a
regular sewing needle.
You must have a zigzag sewing machine as
opposed to a straight stitch only machine.
This is because a straight stitch machine
does not have a large enough opening
in the needle plate to allow the twin
needle to pass through.
A twin or double needle
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The needle package gives you
important information
The top of my package says SCHMETZ.
This is the name of the company that
makes the needles I’m using. Top quality
needles allow your machine to make the
best possible stitch.
I know I can depend on SCHMETZ
needles to give me beautiful results.
The second piece of information the package
tells me is that I have a Twin Needle.
Under the words Twin Needle it says
130/705H-J ZWI. This is just a code that
means that it has a flat back home sewing
machine needle with a scarf (little notch)
just above the eye of the needle.
J means it’s a jeans needle and ZWI
means it’s a twin needle.
The most important pieces of
information are what comes next.
This package has the words Jeans Denim
easily confirming the information given
in short form.
Twin needles have the same properties
as their single siblings so we know that
a jeans twin will have a nice sharp point
to easily pierce all of our layers of fabric
and batting.
These properties make it a good
choice for quilting as it won’t bend
too easily and the large eye can easily
accommodate 50 weight cotton or
heavier thread.
Twin needles are available in a variety
of types and sizes. For our twin
needle quilting we’ll use the Universal,
Embroidery, Jeans and Metallic needles.
These range in size from 1.6/70 all the
way up to 8.0/100 with the Universal
category having the most options to
choose from.
The size of the opening in the zigzag
plate of your sewing machine will
determine the maximum distance
between the two needles that you
can use.
TIP To determine the widest distance
between needles that you can use check
your machines zigzag settings.
• If your widest stitch is a 5 then your
widest twin needle will be a 4.
• If your widest zigzag is 7 then your
widest twin needle will be a 6.
• If your widest zigzag is 9 then you
can use the largest twin needle of 8.
A needle package contains valuable information

Threading your machine
Using a twin needle requires two spools of thread on the top
and a single bobbin below.
The two top threads are both caught and held in place by the
single bobbin thread. This gives the stitch on the bottom the look
of a false zigzag. We’ll explore this in the next couple of articles.
When using two larger spools of thread you’ll need to use two
separate spool holders. Most machines have this capability.
Two small spools of thread will often fit on one spool pin
Machine ready to thread using two upper spool pins
If your machine doesn’t have two spool pins or if the spool pins
are too small to allow your thread to feed smoothly then an
upright cone thread holder from UNIQUE is an ideal tool.
It’s possible to wind a bobbin and use it for your extra top
thread if you don’t have two spools.
A bobbin can be used in place of a second spool of thread
Wind a bobbin with the same weight and type of thread as
you’ll be using on the top. I’ll be using 50 weight cotton in the
top and bobbin.
If you’re using small spools of thread you’ll sometimes be able
to put both spools onto one spool holder.
UNIQUE cone thread holder available at your local quilt store
Photos by Julie Plotniko
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Thread both threads through the
normal pathway.
First thread the left needle from the
standard spool pin. This will be the one
closest to the left side of your sewing
machine. Once again, follow the normal
pathway and thread the right needle
from the secondary spool pin. Threading
the needles one at a time will keep them
from twisting together.
Skip the last guide to prevent tangling
My machine is threaded with a twin needle
on and I’m ready to go!
Keep the threads from twisting as you thread a
twin needle
If the threads seem to want to tangle
then put the one on the right through
the last thread guide and the one on the
left in front of the last guide.
Remember not to use the needle
threader on your machine to thread a
twin needle. You could jam the needle
threader and cause damage to the
machine. If you have an automatic
needle threader consider putting a
sticky note over the activation button
as a reminder not to push it! Place your
bobbin in the machine and bring up the
bobbin thread.
Some computerized sewing machines
have an internal setting that you activate
to tell the machine what twin needle
you have on the machine. Using this
setting will give you optimum stitch
quality as it helps control the thread
tension. It’ll also prevent you from
selecting a stitch that’s too wide for the
twin needle you have on the machine.
Set the internal settings if required by your
sewing machine
A 4.0 twin needle threaded and ready for quilting
Keep reading to learn how to use
SCHMETZ twin needles with a walking
foot to add easy detail to a straight line
quilting.
Remember
do not use the needle
threader on your
machine to thread a
twin needle.
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Let your walking foot work its magic
for easy twin needle quilting
The easiest form of machine quilting is
straight line stitching with a walking foot
so we’ll start our journey through twin
needle quilting the same way.
Why a walking foot?
• A walking foot also known as a dual
feed or even feed foot has feed teeth
that help pull the top layer of your
quilt through the sewing machine.
• It does this at the same speed that
the sewing machine teeth feed the
bottom layer allowing the top fabric,
batting and back fabric to move
through the sewing machine evenly.
• This helps keep your work flat and
prevents puckers.
• When twin needle quilting the
walking foot gives us the added
benefit of reducing the amount of
stress on the twin needle.
• The weight of the quilt can pull on
the twin needle as we sew causing
one or both needles to bend.
• This can damage or even break the
needles.
• Because the walking foot feeds the
quilt evenly through the machine it’s
much easier to handle and we’ll have
better quality stitching.
Machine prepared for quilting with walking foot
and twin needle in place
A short test stitching with each of your
twin needles will help you decide what
needle best suites your current needs.
Here we have a 1.6/70, 2.5/80 and
3.0/90 Universal.
Remember that the first number is
the distance between the needles
and the second number is the size of
the needles.
A test stitch out of a variety of twin needles
The 4.0/80 Universal and 4.0/100 Jeans/
Denim are good needles to use while
learning how to quilt with a twin needle.
The Jeans/Denim needle in particular has
a sharp point to pierce the multiple layers.
This one is a size 100 so it’s quite thick
and has a large eye.
These properties make it a good choice
for beginners as it will not bend too
easily.
The large eye can easily accommodate
50 weight cotton or heavier thread
without shredding or breaking.
The 6.0/100 Universal has the widest
space between needles that I can use on
my machine.
Caution must be used with these very
wide needles.
They’re almost the full width of my stitch
plate so pulling on the quilt sandwich
too much can result in a broken needle.
Reduce top thread tension if the
stitching creates too deep of a channel
between stitching lines.
Test stitching of 4.0 and 6.0 needles
Begin by stitching simple grids of
parallel lines
A great way to practice your twin needle
quilting is to stitch a simple grid of
parallel lines using a 4.0 twin needle.
Use your favorite marking tool to draw a
series of reference lines.
Stitch with your drawn line running
between the twin needle for nice
straight lines.
Hold your fabric steady as it feeds
through the walking foot.
Try not to overcorrect while stitching as
this will create wobbly lines.
Stop your machine with the needles
in the down position to reposition
your fabric.
Make sure there’s no drag or weight on
the needles before you resume stitching!
Allow your walking foot and SCHMETZ
twin needle to work their magic as you
create double rows of detailed looking
straight line stitching.
A simple parallel grid stitched with a 4.0 twin needle
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Repeating patterns of alternate spacing
between grid lines will create rhythm,
movement and interest for a fun
modern look.
A repeat pattern of wide and narrow spacing
A checkerboard grid is created by
stitching evenly spaced horizontal and
vertical rows.
The twin needle adds charming detail
that would be difficult to obtain if we
were using a single needle.
A twin needle checkerboard grid
Matchstick quilting is parallel rows of
quilting stitched very close together.
I absolutely love the texture of very
dense matchstick quilting.
The time to complete this beautiful design
is cut in half by using a twin needle.
You’ll want to draw some reference
lines to keep your stitching lines
parallel and square.
I use my 4.0 twin needle and the edge
of my walking foot against the previous
row of stitching to make quilting these
matchsticks a breeze.
Note: You can’t pivot with a twin needle in
the down position. To turn your fabric this
way would twist and break the twin needle.
Raise the needle and manually
reposition instead if you need to turn
without breaking the thread.
Have fun experimenting to see just how
many designs you can come up with
using your twin needles and walking foot!
Free motion quilting with a
twin needle – instant ribbon stippling magic
It’s amazing what our SCHMETZ twin
needles are capable of with a little help.
Twin needle matchstick quilting
A variety of darning feet for free motion quilting
SCHMETZ twin needle
Free motion quilting is a technique that
puts us in the driver‘s seat to steer the
fabric where we want it to go.
The feed dogs on the machine are
normally dropped or covered and a
darning foot is placed on the machine.
This allows us to move our fabric in any
direction as well as control the stitch
length just by how we move our hands.
Free motion quilting with a twin needle
There are a wide variety of darning feet
available for most machines.
A closed toe foot is preferred for use with
a twin needle as it protects the needle
better than an open toe foot.
Smooth hand movement is required
when using a twin needle to free
motion quilt.
We must be careful not to allow the
weight of the fabric to drag or twist and
turn the fabric while we stitch.
While it’s easier to begin with a wide
spacing between the needles for straight
line stitching, the opposite is true for free
motion quilting. A narrower 80 or 90
needle is the easiest to use.
For that reason it’s best to start with a 2.5
universal twin needle.
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Before you begin always check to be sure that your chosen twin
needle will clear the opening in the foot.
Loop de Loops with a 2.5 twin needle
Check to be sure your twin needle will clear the opening in the foot.
Make sure that your machine is threaded properly with any
internal settings set.
The needle threads should be through the foot and laid
towards the back of the machine.
What is free motion quilting and can I really do that with a
twin needle?
Ribbon stippling is normally created by stitching your quilt
twice.
The first line of quilting establishes the pattern while the second
line of quilting mirrors the first.
Crossing over the first line of stitching causes the ribbon effect.
All of this occurs naturally with a twin needle and we only have
to stitch the design once.
Once you’re comfortable with your hand movement you can
switch to a wider spacing between the needles.
A 4.0 twin needle really accents the ribbon effect in
many patterns.
Closed toe darning foot with spring and 4.0 twin needle ready for stitching
What makes free motion twin needle quilting so different?
Circles that wander all over your fabric are called Loop de Loops.
Stitching loops is great way to begin.
Notice that when you move the fabric in a forward or backward
motion the space between the stitching is consistent with the
distance between the needles.
When you move your hands from left to right the two
needles stitch on top of one another giving the effect of a
single thread.
If you move your hands in a circular motion the distance
between the needles seems to change as the threads cross
over one another.
What a neat trick!
Ribbon stippling with a 4.0 twin needle
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More detailed patterns are easier to stitch with a narrow
spacing between the needles.
A 1.6 needle easily stitches the most complex designs.
Square stippling is the more modern cousin of our traditional
stippling.
Lines and corners don’t have to be perfectly straight for this
playful kind of quilting.
Have lots of fun practicing your free motion quilting with your
SCHMETZ twin needle.
Keep reading for the modern flair of twin needle quilting as we
see just how many ways we can make use of the way the back
of a twin needle stitch is formed.
Square stippling is modern and fun.
Detailed designs are easier to stitch with a narrow space between the needles.
The modern flair of twin needle
quilting: embrace the zigzag
When the single bobbin thread catches
both the right and left needle it forms a
bridge between the two.
This gives the appearance of a zigzag
stitch on the back even when you are
doing a straight stitch.
The wider the space between the
needles the more pronounced this false
zigzag is.
Exploring a variety of quilting methods using
SCHMETZ twin needle.
How a twin needle makes a stitch
As we learned in part one, to make a
stitch with a twin needle our sewing
machine requires threethreads, two
through the needles and one bobbin.
Back of 1.6 straight line stitching
Back of 4.0 straight line stitching
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Make the appearance of a zigzag work
for you
We can choose to minimize the
appearance of the zigzag by using a
narrow twin needle.
A backing fabric with a busy print will
also help hide the stitching.
I choose to embrace the zigzag and let it
become part of my quilting design.
After all, we have already decided to do
something unusual by using our twin
needle for quilting.
If using a printed backing choose a
thread color to accent the print so that
your stitching will show.
Thread the needles with one color and
the bobbin with another for a more
visible ladder effect.
Tighten the top tension and shorten
the stitch length.
Thread the needles with one color and
the bobbin with a contrasting color. You’ll
get the look of a bordered satin stitch.
Use three of the same color threads
and slightly loosen the top tension for a
honeycomb appearance.
Variegated thread in the bobbin will
give a different appearance, sometimes
subtle sometimes extreme.
A wide twin needle, a slightly
reduced top tension and all three
threads the same color will create a
pronounced honeycomb.
Be sure to draw frequent positioning
lines on the back to keep this stitching
square on the front.
Matchstick quilting looks completely different
stitched upside down
Embrace the zigzag and twin needle free
motion quilt your design from the back.
Accent the colors in the print
Gridwork that alternates between
stitching from the front and back makes
wonderful use of the decorative element
created by the bobbin thread.
Adjust the stitch settings or thread colors to
highlight the zigzag
Matchstick quilting stitched from the
back looks completely different.
Accent whimsical free motion quilting by stitching
from the back
It’s OK to practice! Start with something
small. Your friends will all wonder “how
did you do that?!”
Keep reading for our final installment of
the week as we double the fun and use
our SCHMETZ twin needles for quilting
with decorative stitches.
Diagonal grid that alternates stitching from the
front and back
We can highlight the appearance of a
zigzag by adjusting the threading or
stitch settings on our sewing machine.
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Double the fun:twin needle quilting
with decorative stitches
I talked about some basic techniques for machine quilting
using various sizes and types of SCHMETZ twin needles.
Though we used both a walking foot and a darning foot, the
only stitch we used up until now is the straight stitch.
It’s time to double the fun!
In this last part of 'everything you ever wanted to know about
quilting with a twin needle', I’ll use my sewing machine’s
decorative stitches.
A simple zigzag stitch will take on new beauty when used for
twin needle quilting.
This is a side motion, machine stitched zig zag not to be
confused with the false zigzag created by the bobbin thread
when sewing with a twin needle.
This one is stitched with a 4.0 twin needle.
A single zig zag takes on new beauty.
Even simple decorative stitches look complex when stitched with a twin needle
Preparing your machine for decorative stitching
A walking foot is essential to help the decorative stitches
feed evenly.
Many machines have walking feet with bases that can be
changed for different kinds of stitching.
The ideal machine set-up would be to have one of these with a
bottom plate designed for decorative stitching.
If this isn't possible then a traditional open toe walking foot will
work.
Activate your machine’s internal setting for twin needle quilting,
if required.
Though the wider twin needles can be used for decorative
stitching they can limit the amount of side to side motion that
your machine is able to do. This will sometimes have the effect
of flattening out the stitch.
A 2.5 or smaller twin needle will work well for decorative stitching.
To start, I'll use some standard construction stitches and make
them decorative!
A three step zigzag does exactly that. This is a construction
stitch used to finish raw edges or build in stretch.
Doesn’t it look amazing as a decorative twin needle quilting stitch?
A three step zig zag stitched with a 1.6 twin needle
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TIPs for using decorative stitches
• Most decorative stitches have a certain amount of side to
side motion.
• Try to stick to the somewhat simpler more open stitches for
quilting with your twin needle and walking foot.
• Dense stitches such as satin stitch combinations can be
stitched through batting but may require tension, foot
pressure or stitch width adjustments for optimum stitching.
• If your machine doesn’t have a twin needle setting it’s best
to un-thread your machine and turn the flywheel manually
through one stitch repeat to be sure that the stitch setting
isn’t too wide for your chosen needle.
• Go slow and guide very gently allowing your machine to
feed the stitch.
• The pattern repeat will be more even this way and you’ll
have fewer skipped stitches.
• Skipped stitches are usually caused by going too fast or a
dull needle.
Decorative stitches look amazing stitched with a twin needle
As I mentioned earlier, do flip your quilt over and stitch upside
down for a differentlook.
All you really need to get good at quilting using a twin needle is
the tips in this week-long tutorial, time to explore the varieties
of stitching and SCHMETZ twin needle as a trusted tool.
Enjoy!
Julie Plotniko
juliesquiltclass.blogspot.ca
For something different stitch decorative stitches upside down
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First steps to embroidering a miniature
quilt on THE Dream Machine 2
Christine Baker
THE Brother Dream Machine 2
Welcome to this feature about THE Dream Machine 2 from
Brother and BOY have I been having fun with this machine!!
As you’ve seen on QUILTsocial, I’ve used the machine to make
quick and easy Christmas gifts, and a sweet Valentine’s pillow,
but I’ve also been using the machine behind the scenes on
some other projects. I’ve embroidered two t-shirts for next
Christmas and even helped my son make a German flag for
his history project!
I’ve always wanted to make a miniature quilt and since
I’ve been using this machine, I started wondering about
embroidering one. I looked around online and found a few quilt
block embroidery designs but they weren’t exactly what I was
looking for so I decided to design a miniature quilt on EQ and
then import it into the machine so that it could be converted
into an embroidery design.
Here's my first design – I created it
with a white background, so that I
could “scan” the image and remove the
background (anything that is white).
That way I could use the appropriate
colored threads to embroider onto
black fabric and then I would add
quilting stitches to emphasize the block
edges, sashing and borders.
Unfortunately, the image I created was
too big for the machine to import and this
error message popped up on the screen.
Error message with file that is too large
So I went back to the drawing board
and saved my miniature quilt design
as a smaller image file. Unfortunately,
when it was imported into the
machine, the embroidery design that
was created from the smaller EQ file
did not have enough details to make a
nice looking design.
The embroidery design created from a smaller file
Miniature quilt design
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So I decided to approach my miniature
quilt design a different way. Instead
of designing the entire quilt at once, I
decided to design a series of individual
blocks that could be arranged into a
bigger quilt design on the embroidery
design screen. Here's the first pieced
block image that I created to import.
The six block embroidery designs
The converted embroidery design
I then designed five more pieced
blocks on my computer and used THE
Dream Machine 2 to convert them into
embroidery designs. I made sure that the
colors I used in each design were very
distinct so that the machine could easily
distinguish between them.
Click here to download original PHC files for
all six of these embroidery designs. Once
downloaded and unzipped, you can use
it on your Dream Machine 2 or see if your
machine will convert it into a file that’s
appropriate for you to use.
Now that I’ve got six different blocks
made into embroidery designs, I’ll
play around with coloring the blocks
differently.
Pieced block design
I followed the same procedure I used for
importing my Valentine’s design and in
the next photo is the embroidery design
that THE Dream Machine 2 created. Isn’t
it adorable?!!
1 easy way to change thread colors in a
machine embroidery design
This is how I 'recolor' the blocks in my
design to match the threads that I have
on hand.
I'm using the Splendor rayon thread pack,
Retro, to embroider my miniature quilt.
I want to be able to see what my block
designs will look like in the thread
colors that are included in the thread
pack, so I’ll do the modifications from
the “edit” screen.
I select the thread palette key on the edit
screen.
WonderFil thread pack, Retro
Photos by Christine Baker
Entering the “edit” screen
Select the thread color button
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The screen now shows all of the thread
changes required to stitch the block
designs. The up and down arrows are
used to scroll through the different
colors in the embroidery design.
The thread palette is shown at the
bottom of the edit screen. The new color
can be selected from any of the colors
shown. When a thread color is selected,
that square becomes bigger than all of
the others and the name of the color
appears at the top of the palette. You
can select the color by either touching
the colored boxes or by using the arrows
on the right side of the screen to scroll
through the colors.
As you can see I changed the colors in
the embroidery design on the screen of
THE Dream Machine 2 so that they closely
match the threads in the WonderFil
theme pack.
Use arrows to scroll through the colors in the design
When I press on the color I want
to change and I can tell it’s been
selected because the outline of the
key is now blue.
Selecting a new color from the thread palette
Once a new color is selected, the quilt
block design on the screen will show
what it will look like if stitched with that
color choice, like pre screening…
Matching the thread colors
Here’s a close up of the six recolored
block embroidery designs.
Now that the block embroidery designs
are recolored, I'll rearrange them into
an actual quilt design. I can’t wait to get
stitching my miniature quilt!
The selected color is highlighted with a blue ring
Since we selected the “royal purple”
key, the screen shows the royal
purple section of the first quilt block
embroidery design. Since each of the
blocks is a separate embroidery design,
I’m only changing the royal purple in
the first block not all of the royal purple
sections on the screen.
The recolored block
The
6
recolored
quilt
blocks
The royal purple section of the first block
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Iron out the kinks
on your embroidery
design on
THE Dream Machine 2
THE Dream Machine 2
Once I started lining up the quilt block
embroideries on the design screen of
THE Dream Machine 2, I realized that it
would be a lot easier to make sure they
were straight if there were grid lines on
the screen.
I scrolled through the nine setting
screens until I found screen 7. Many of
the embroidery settings can be accessed
from this screen, but I was most
interested in the “Embroidery Frame
Display” settings at the top of the screen.
Accessing the machine setting screens
Lining up the blocks
I went to the home screen and then
selected the machine setting screen
from the top of the display.
Settings screen 7
I discovered here, that grid lines can be
added to the embroidery frame display
by pressing the right and left arrows to
scroll through the selections. I chose
the 3⁄8” grid, but there's also a 1” grid that
could be selected.
Adding grid lines
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The grid lines on the display can be
used to easily line up the quilt block
embroidery images and add border
designs evenly to all four sides of the
quilt design.
The duplicated block appears on the
screen just to the right and slightly lower
than the original. To move it to its new
position, press on it with your finger
or with the sensor pen and drag it to
wherever you want it to go.
To make all of the 12 cornerstones, I just
kept duplicating this block and moving
the new ones to their correct positions.
As you can see, I added four outer
border cornerstone blocks and decided
against the blue and red swirl design
that I had originally put in the outer
borders. It’s amazing what you can see
when the blocks are layed out before
starting the embroidery.
Now that the design is all done, I can
start stitching!!
Lining up the quilt block embroidery images
For my design, I wanted 12
cornerstone blocks, so I followed the
same procedure as I mentioned at the
beginning of this feature, to design
and import a small four patch block
into my quilt design. Instead of adding
the same embroidery design over
and over again from memory, I used
the edit screen to make a copy of the
selected embroidery design. To do this,
just press the duplicate button on the
edit screen as shown.
The duplicated block
Here’s the final miniature quilt
embroidery design that I created on THE
Dream Machine 2.
The final miniature quilt design
The Duplicate button
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1 way to minimize thread changes during
embroidery with THE Dream Machine 2
I used this awesome grid feature to finish designing our
embroidered miniature quilt. Let’s start stitching!!
The first step is to stabilize my black Toscana fabric from Northcott.
I decided to use Sulky Totally Stable and ironed it to the back of
the fabric.
THE Dream Machine 2 from Brother
After you touch the “Embroider” button on the bottom of the
design screen, the display will change to show the overall size
of the finished embroidery, the stitch count, the number of
thread changes and the time it will take to embroider the
entire design.
Since each of my blocks is a separate embroidery design, you
can see at the right side of the screen (beside the spool icon)
that there are a total of 65 thread changes to be done!!! Since
I’m using the same colored threads over and over again, I
decided to come up with a way to minimize the number of
times I needed to rethread the machine.
The embroidery size and stitch count display
Totally Stable from Sulky
The Sky Blue section of the first block was the first part to be
embroidered, so I threaded
the machine with my sky
blue thread.
After this section was stitched,
the machine wanted me to
change the thread to pink.
Instead of rethreading the
machine with the next
color that was listed on the
embroidery screen, I used
the arrow down button to
scroll to the next section that
was labelled “sky blue” and
stitched out that section.
After each section was
stitched, I scrolled down to
the next sky blue section and
had the machine stitch out
that part. All of the sky blue
sections were stitched while
that color of thread was on
the machine.
No thread changes yet!
Embroidering the Sky Blue section of
the first block
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The Sky Blue block sections
Adding the pink and purple threads
Next I scrolled back up to the beginning of the design and
selected the first pink section. I rethreaded the machine with
the pink thread and followed the same process to stitch first the
pink and then the purple sections. I couldn’t believe how cute
my little quilt was looking!!
After all of the blocks were stitched, I started stitching the
cornerstone blocks. I had the THE Dream Machine 2 stitch all of
the aqua sections first and then scrolled back and had it stitch
all of the pink sections last.
By using this simple technique, I was able to decrease the
number of thread changes from 65 to less than 10!
Not all designs will work with this technique – if you have an
embroidery design where colors are layered on top of each
other you must have the machine stitch the bottom-most color
first and then work your way towards the top color or your
design won’t look right.
Now that I see the stitched version of my design, I decided I
don’t want to add the outside blocks that would have been the
cornerstones of an outer border. I love it just the way it is, so
we’re going to layer, quilt and bind my miniature quilt!
Stitching the last of the cornerstones
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3 machine features that make finishing a
miniature quilt super easy
After I removed the fabric from the embroidery hoop, I pulled off
the Sulky Totally Stable stabilizer from the back of the embroidery.
The dual feed foot
I then replace the embroidery W+ foot with the dual feed foot
that came with THE Dream Machine 2. This foot is AMAZING
for machine quilting as it pulls all of the quilt sandwich layers
through at the same time which results in beautiful stitches
with no puckering at all!
Remove the stabilizer
Next, I layered the embroidered fabric, batting and backing
and used my Odif 505 spray to fuse it all together so that I
could start quilting.
The dual feed foot and embroidery W+ foot
The regular bobbin case (with the green screw) also needed
to be put back in to replace the embroidery bobbin case that I
had been using with the embroidery foot.
Replacing the bobbin case
The quilt sandwich
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Just like the embroidery foot, the dual feed foot needs to be
plugged into the back of THE Dream Machine 2.
With the laser guideline showing me the way, I used the dual
feed foot to machine quilt “in the ditch” around each block
and cornerstone.
Using the laser pointing for quilting
I also quilted some straight lines through the blocks along the
“seams”. This helped to give the embroidery some dimension
and made the blocks look even more “quilt-like”.
Side view of the dual feed foot
The guideline marker
The guideline marker button appears on the LCD screen while
sewing. Once pressed, it activates the laser light which can be
used to help line up your stitching while straight line machine
quilting using the dual feed foot.
Quilting through the “blocks”
The guideline marker button
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The presser foot lifter
I love using the presser foot lifter button
on THE Dream Machine 2! The machine
also comes with a knee lift, but I really
prefer using the button. It’s especially
handy when used in combination with
the needle down function. When you’re
machine quilting straight lines you just
stop at the end of the line, the needle
goes down, you push the button to lift
the foot and you can pivot the fabric
around to line up your next quilting line
– it’s perfect!
The dual feed foot is also super
for topstitching the binding! I just
fold the binding around to the
back of the quilt, making sure that
the folded edge extends past the
stitching line. Then I use a thread
that matches the top of the quilt
and I topstitch right along the
edge of the binding on the front
of the quilt, making sure to catch
the folded edge on the back.
I added my label and …done!
Here it is – my finished miniature
quilt! As you can see it fits
perfectly on the bed of THE
Dream Machine 2. It looks so
sweet and it was so much easier
than piecing a quilt that size!
My son said it’s “cheating” but I
disagree – I think it was more like
thinking outside the box!
Attaching the binding
The “Presser Foot Lifter” button
Next I made the binding for the
miniature quilt. The guideline marker
is so awesome for sewing that mitered
seam between strips of binding. For
more info on binding a quilt, check out
my QUILTsocial post from October 2014.
Christine Baker
FairfieldRoadDesigns.com
Topstitching the binding
Sewing the mitred seam
The dual feed foot on THE Dream
Machine 2 is also great for sewing
binding onto the edge of a quilt.
The finished miniature quilt
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Berries & Cream, quilting with the
NEW PFAFF creative icon Claire Haillot
Banishing your blues with this fabulous hot pink table runner
One of the many wonderful things of summer are the many
berries that are available. The colors and flavors are very
inspiring to make beautiful quilts based on the many berries.
Using the NEW PFAFF creative icon will make this Berries & Cream
table runner fast and easy to make!
You’ll love this project as it doesn’t require many fabrics; just pull
out your leftover 2½” strips from other projects and a neutral
background fabric.
Presenting the PFAFF creative icon!
While making this beauty, I’ll also be showing you the many
features of the new PFAFF creative icon machine that I’ve had
the pleasure to sew with.
Over the years, I’ve had many quilters ask me what my favorite
sewing machine is. To which I always answer that it’s more
important to figure out what features one desires to have on a
sewing machine. Picking out a favorite sewing machine is a very
personal affair, as everyone has a different approach to quilting.
From this point of view, I suggest making a list of the features
your sewing machine doesn’t have that you feel you would love
to have.
So, here’s my wish list for the ideal sewing machine:
• Great lighting: how many of you have stacked up
numerous lamps around the sewing machine and still feel
these don’t shed enough light?
• Self-threading needle, yes!: I finally understand why it’s
SO important. Can we say that I have finally reached the
age of reason?
• More workspace: I want to have more room between the
needle and arm so that I can quilt bigger projects on my own.
• Big screen: I want a machine that has a big screen which
tells me what I’m doing wrong, as in: when I’m running out
of thread in my bobbin or when I’m about to start sewing
using the wrong foot, or stitch. I want the sewing machine
to be idiot proof.
• Sturdy: I need a sewing machine that can handle piecing
and quilting non-stop when I finally have some “me time”.
Whether it’s 3 hours or 3 days.
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Believe it or not! My prayers have been answered! And
then some! In the article that follow, I’ll be looking at more
outstanding features of the new creative icon. Also you might
one to check out this video
Reviewing the creative icon on QUILTsocial is quite a treat as
it really answered all my needs. And the fact that it also has
the integrated Dual-Feed is icing on the cake. The creative
icon is German engineered, which means that it will never
let me down. You might find it hard to believe, but it has 12.2”
workspace from the needle to the arm and is 5.5” high, so I
really get to see where I’m going when sewing and quilting.
And I’m so happy to say that this area is completely lighted, so
no need for all the extra lights around my workspace.
Having all these great features made it a breeze to make this
project. Now let’s get you started!
Hot pinks inspire summer quilt making!
It may look confusing when choosing the fabrics but just keep
in mind the values, ranging from the darkest to the lightest. If
you’re not sure, take a picture of your fabrics and transfer the
photo to black and white… you’ll clearly see the range.
Strips should measure 2½” wide, I noted the minimum length
needed in the list below. You can grab from your leftover strips
depending on the length you have or go for your strip prepacks
or fat quarter stash.
Presenting the PFAFF creative icon!
materials
• 1 strip of 3 dark prints (A1 A2 and A3 must both be 10” long)
• 1 strip of 4 medium dark prints (B1 = 8”, B2 = 20”, B3= 10” and
B4 = 20”)
• 1 strip of 4 medium prints (C1, C2, C3 and C4 must all be 15”
long)
• 1 strip of 5 light prints (D1, D2, D3, D4 must all be 15” long
and D5 must be 20” long)
You'll need a yard of your background fabric:
• two 1½” strips
• six 2½” strips
• five strips for your binding
Find those strips in your fabric stash and label them to be ready
to play with more wonderful features on the PFAFF creative icon!
Choosing your fabrics for the table runner
Photos by Claire Haillot
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Why the ¼” seam
allowance is
precise on the
PFAFF creative icon
Presenting the NEW PFAFF creative icon
My best advice to ensure precise piecing
is to know where to sew ¼” seam
allowance with your sewing foot.
It was a breeze to find the precise ¼”
on the PFAFF creative icon as it has a
¼” Quilting Foot and the distance from
the needle to the outer edge of the
right toe is a precise ¼”. The hole in the
center of the foot indicates where the
needle will go through and therefore
create the seam.
As I always do prior to starting a project,
I tested to ensure I had ¼” by sewing
a test piece and measuring my seam
allowance. Ideally you want to have the
seam allowance a hairline within the ¼”.
If you need more details, you can check
my Precise ¼” Seam Allowance article.
Tools to help you with precise piecing
The creative icon did not disappoint as
my seam allowance was right on at my
very first try. I must admit that I did place
the straight stich needle plate on the
machine, which is part of the accessories
included with the machine. The smaller
hole in the Straight Stitch Needle Plate
supports the fabric closer to the needle
and helps prevent the fabric from being
pulled down into the bobbin area,
especially at the beginning and end of
a seam.
Piecing the table runner
Now let’s test that precise seam by
sewing some strips together, shall we?
Step 1
• Take a background strip and cut two
8” strips.
• Stitch the two background strips to
your medium dark B1 strip.
• Cut to make three 2½” x 6½”
rectangles.
Tools to help you with precise piecing with the
PFAFF creative icon.
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PFAFF creative icon’s Straight Stitch Needle Plate
What is also nice is that the ¼” foot is
designed to be used with the integrated
dual feed system which means that your
top and bottom fabrics are being fed
through at the same time, preventing
your layers from shifting while sewing
and ensuring a precise piecing.
Step 1 A
Step 1B

Step 2
• From your dark A1 strip, cut four
2½” squares.
• From a background strip, cut four 2½”
x 4½” rectangles.
• Sew your dark square at the edge of
your background rectangle.
• Repeat to make four 2½” x 6½”
rectangles.
For the outer blocks:
• From a background strip, cut two 2½”
x 6½” rectangles.
• Sew one rectangle and Step 2 units
on each side of Step 1 unit.
• Repeat to make two 6½” block.
Step 4
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4 A
• Sew 2 light strips (D1 and D2) to a
medium C1 strip.
• Cut to make six 2½” x 6½” rectangles.
• Sew 2 units on alternate sides of Step
3 blocks.
• Makes three 6½” x 10½” rectangles
(one center block and two end
blocks).
Step 3 for the center block
For the center block:
• Sew two units of Step 2 on each side
of a Step 1 unit.
• Ensure that the dark fabric A2 on Step
2 units is placed on alternate sides.
• Makes one 6½” block.
Step 4B for center block
Step 4B for outer blocks
Step 3 for the outer blocks
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Step 5
• Sew two light strips (D3 and D4) between
three medium strips (C2, C3, C4).
• Cut to make six 2½” x 10½” rectangles.
Step 5 A
• Sew 2 units on alternate sides of Step
3 blocks
• Makes three 10½” squares (one center
block and two outer blocks)
Congratulations, the first part of the table runner is
ready!
Ensure that you measure each step to help you
adjust and obtain your precise piecing.
Step 5 B Center Block
Completed blocks at Step 5
Step 5 B Outer Blocks
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Stop unthreading
your machine
to make new bobbins!
Presenting the PFAFF creative icon
Can I mention one quick feature that
I really love on the PFAFF creative icon?
How about NOT having to unthread
your machine to make a new bobbin?
Believe it or not, we can wind a new
bobbin directly through the needle
without having to unthread/re-thread
the machine! The people at PFAFF have
added a groove on the front right side
of the machine which means that we
simply must bring the thread through
that area and up in the bobbin. OK…
please read the instructions in the
manual as there are more steps and
remember, the manual is your best
friend! It did take me a few times to
figure it out, but it was well worth it.
Let’s continue our project, shall we?
Step 6
• Stitch a background strip to the
medium dark B2 strip.
• Cut to make four 2½” x 4½” rectangles.
• Set the rest of the strip aside for Step 8.
Step 6 A
Step 7
• Take a background fabric strip and cut
four 2½” x 6½” rectangles.
• Stitch a rectangle to the end of the
medium dark fabric square of a Step 6
rectangle.
• Makes four 2½” x 10½” rectangles.
Step 8
• Stitch your dark A2 strip to the
background edge of your leftover
strip from Step 6.
• Cut to make four 2½” x 6½” rectangles.
Step 9
• Take a strip of the background fabric
and cut four 2½” x 8½” rectangles.
• Stitch a rectangle to the end of the
medium dark fabric square of a Step
8 rectangle.
• Makes four 2½” x 14½” rectangles.
Step 10
• Center block
• Stitch two Step 7 rectangles to the
center block, on opposite ends.
Make sure that the medium dark
square is aligned with the dark square
in the center block.
• Stitch two Step 9 rectangles to the
center block, on opposite ends.
Make sure that the medium dark and
dark squares are aligned with the
dark square in the center block.
• Makes one 14½” square center block.
Step 7
Step 8 A
Step 8 B
Step 9
Step 6B
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Step 10 Center Block
Step 10 Center Block
End blocks
Stitch one Step 7 rectangle to one side of
the end blocks (where the dark square is
in the block).
Cut two 2½” x 10½” rectangles from your
background fabric.
Stitch one background rectangle to the
other side on the end blocks.
Stitch one Step 9 rectangle to the end
blocks (where the dark square is in the
block).
Cut two 2½” x 14½” rectangles from your
background fabric.
Stitch one background rectangle to the
other side on the end blocks.
Makes two 14½” square block.
Congratulations, the second part of the
table runner is ready.
Now tell me? How many times have
you had to unthread your machine to
make a new bobbin during this project?
Wouldn’t you love this feature on your
machine? Keep reading to continue this
fine project as we discover more stellar
features on the new PFAFF creative icon.
A surprising must-have feature on
the PFAFF creative icon
All right, as if not needing to unthread the machine to make
new bobbins wasn’t awesome enough, I have another great
feature to talk about on the PFAFF creative icon.
This is something I would have never thought of putting on
my wish list. Yet I was so happy to see that the people at PFAFF
have thought about it. How many of you have purchased
BIG thread bobbins only to find out that they can’t fit on your
sewing machine? So we buy yet another gadget to carry
around with our machine that holds the bobbins and feeds the
thread to our machine. And how many times we end up with
the adapter falling, or the peg breaking….
The must-have feature of which I would have never thought!
Well NO MORE! The creative icon comes with two different
adapters: a thread cone holder and a large spool holder that
allows to place big bobbins on your machine. The thread
will never tangle! All my big bobbins fit whether they are for
piecing or quilting!
Q
A nice touch on the PFAFF creative icon
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Now let’s finish the table runner top!
Step 11
• Stitch a background strip to your
medium dark B3 strip.
• Cut to make four (4) 2½” x 4½”
rectangles.
Step 12
• Cut from a background strip four (4)
2½” x 4½” rectangles.
• Stitch a background rectangle to a
Step 11 rectangle.
• Makes four (4) 4½” squares.
Step 13
• Stitch together the light D5 strip to
the medium dark B4 strip.
• Cut to make four (4) 2½” x 4½”
rectangles.
Step 14
• With the leftover strip, stitch a dark
strip (A3) along the medium dark
strip.
• Cut to make four (4) 2½” x 6½”
rectangles.
Step 15
• Stitch a step 13 and step 14
rectangles to a Step 11 square.
• Makes a 6½” square.
• Repeat to make 4.
Step 12
Step 13
Step 14
Step 16
• Take the 1½” background strips and
cut:
ūū
four (4) 1½” x 6½” rectangle (R1);
ūū
four (4) 1½” x 7½” rectangle (R2);
• Stitch a R1 and R2 rectangles to a
step 14 square.
• Make a 7½” square.
• Repeat to make four.
Step 15 Step 16
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Step 17 Outer Blocks
Step 17 Center Block
Step 17
• Stitch two (2) Step 16 squares to your
Step 10 center block.
• Align the end medium dark squares
from the smaller blocks to the dark
squares of your center block.
• Makes 1 irregular shape block.
• Stitch one (1) Step 16 square to each
Step 10 end block.
• Makes 2 irregular shape blocks.
• Stitch both end blocks to your center
block.
Congratulations! Your table runner top
is complete.
Now don’t forget to sandwich your piece.
And I’ll be able to place my large quilting
spool on my machine thanks to the
must-have adapters.
Sandwich your quilt top to the batting and backing
Step 17 Final Step
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Straight lines before
I know that there are many quilters dreading this moment so I
have come up with simple steps to make your quilting easy. I,
on the other hand, was looking forward to this part as I knew
the PFAFF creative icon would be the perfect tool.
free-motion quilting
Free motion quilting witht he PFAFF creative icon
Presenting the PFAFF creative icon
1st step: the sandwich
The first step is to sandwich your quilt! I use
ODIF 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive Spray and wait overnight to
begin quilting so I’m sure nothing will move.
2nd step: straight lines before free-motion
Now for this piece, I want to have some free-motion designs
so in order to ensure that my piece won’t shift or shrink during
that part, I’m going to run some straight line quilting along the
table runner so that it will ‘set’ my project.
I decided to do some simple stitch in the ditch to set my table
runner as I don’t want to see that quilting. I want all eyes on the
free-motion design. It was really easy to do since the ¼” foot
is designed to be used with the integrated dual feed system
which means that I don’t need a bulky walking foot for any
straight line quilting on the creative icon.
And by a simple touch of the screen I was able to select my
quilting stitch and adjust length and tension.
Once that was done, I changed to my Dynamic Spring foot
and adjusted the speed to allow me to free-motion quilt in the
center of the blocks.
Once again I was impressed on how easy it was to change foot
the creative icon. I realized that I never have to unscrew the
pressure foot ankle, the Dynamic Spring foot clips onto it.
Again, the machine was my true friend as I had enough work
space in height and width to see where I was going. And I really
love using Dynamic Spring Foot. There was no hesitation and
my free-motion quilting was very fun to do.
I had practiced the design and movement on paper until I was
ready to move to the creative icon. And this is really important
to remember.
You can’t quilt it if you can’t draw it!
Guidelines to quilting your table runner
Here’s my quilting design. The first stitch in the ditch is marked
in black, the second is in yellow. Once that’s done, you can do a
free-motion pattern. I liked the floral design and decided to go
with it on the table runner.
Stitch in the ditch with the PFAFF creative icon
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Floral quilting step 1
Floral quilting step 2
Floral quilting step 3
Here’s how I quilted it:
If you really want to mark your table
runner and free-motion on the drawing
then I suggest drawing the pattern on
a Glad Press’n Seal sheet, you can easily
remove it once done by simply tearing
it off and using a hot iron on the tough
to reach pieces under your thread.
Don’t worry! It won’t melt onto your
fabric or iron.
I hope that these simple steps have
helped you gain confidence in your
quilting abilities.
All that is left to do is the binding and you’ll
be ready to enjoy your new table runner.
If you’re worried about the inside
corners… no need to worry. Mark your
¼” and find the inside corner (see photo).
When you’re sewing your binding, stop
at that corner and simply move to the
other side of the quilt, while stretching
out the side you just stitched to become
a continuous line with your new edge
and continue sewing. (OK, check the
photo as an image speaks louder than
words.)
I must admit I cheated on this table
runner. I used leftover 2½” strips in the
light color for my binding and machine
stitched on both sides.
Imagine what a bowl of fresh cherries
or raspberries will look like on this table
runner. I'll tell you, that streudel and milk
bottle are looking really good as well!!
The beauty of the PFAFF creative icon is that
it will give you hours of joyful sewing and
quilting all year long!
Claire Haillot
quiltingwithclaire.com
Binding your quilt step 1
Binding you quilt step 2
Binding you quilt step 3
Floral quilting step 4
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Enjoy your new table runner

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Q
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.com | issue 11 39

Using Northcott Banyan Batiks in a modern quilt
For those who didn’t already know,
Northcott introduced a new collection
in September 2017. They added
several batik collections to their already
impressive fabric repertoire.
Naturally when I was asked to write about
the fabrics from the Northcott Banyan
Batiks collections, I knew exactly which
quilt I wanted to make.
When the time came to choose the
fabrics for this project I was very happy
to see that compared to many batik lines
that primarily consist of medium to dark
colors, the Banyan Batiks collections also
offer many batik fabrics in lighter colors.
This lighter color option is something
that’s very important to me because I
like to have many options in the fabric
tones I use.
If you’d like to quilt along as I make this
quilt, here are the fabrics I chose from
three batik collections:
• Nostalgic Vibes
• Primitive Lines
• Shadows
From the Nostalgic Vibes collection,
I chose ¼ yard from each of the
following fabrics:
Blue Green
Colorway
Red Black
Colorway
80016-63 80010-91
80010-60 80017-24
80018-74 80013-52
Northcott Banyan Batiks Primitive Line collections in blue-red and gold-green
From the Primitive Lines collection,
I chose ¼ yard from each of the
following fabrics:
Gold Greens
Colorway
Blue Red
Colorway
80041-70 80041-12
80043-50 80040-25
80044-70 80042-12
6 fabrics from the Primitive Lines collection that
will be used in the quilt.
From the Shadows collection, I chose 3¾
yards from the following fabric:
81300-11 (pictured below as the
background fabric).
Paul Leger
If you’re wondering where to find
these fabrics, check out my February 5,
2018 post on QUILTsocial. There you’ll
find a great step-by-step guide to help
you find Northcott Banyan Batiks fabrics
along with all the other Northcott
fabric collections.
As title says, 'we’re going modern'? Yes!
We’ll make a modern quilt using batik
fabrics.
I’m guessing that some of you are
thinking that the Modern Quilt
Movement says not to use batiks in a
modern quilt. Well, I’d refute that and
respond that it isn’t so much a rule but
more of a guideline.
Photos by Banyan Batiks
6 fabrics from the Nostalgic Vibes collection used
to make this quilt
Background fabric from the Shadow collection.
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Photos by Paul Leger

In my case, I love working with batiks and for that reason,
I’m asserting my right to rebel and use batiks to make
a modern quilt! After all, at the end of the day, the quilt
belongs to the maker and the maker must be happy with
his or her choice of fabrics!
Before we launch into the details of making the quilt we
must chat about the age-old question. Do we pre-wash
our fabrics or not?
The colors of Batik fabrics are known to bleed when
washed, especially the medium to dark fabrics. Not
wanting to take a chance with this quilt, I checked my
chosen fabrics. I was pleasantly surprised. Yes, there was
some bleeding, but overall I was very impressed with how
little there was. I forged ahead (after performing this precheck)
and pre-washed all of the fabrics.
We’ll start cutting and sewing these delicious fabrics
from the Northcott Banyan Batik Nostalgic Vibe, Primitive
Lines and Shadows collections.
A colorful sketch of this modern quilt project 59¼” x 73½”
Making a modern quilt out of traditional
log cabin blocks and batiks
As I mentioned, this quilt is inspired by
the modern quilt trend. I talked about
how it’s not quite ‘modern’ to use batiks
in a modern quilt, it’s more of a guideline
than a rule. Rules are made to be broken!
I used batiks in modern quilts and will
continue to do so, because I like batiks
and I like modern quilting and with
the right design together they make a
beautiful quilt!
With the Northcott Banyan Batiks selected,
we’ll make a marvelous modern quilt.
Let’s go!
Remember! It’s important to pre-wash
your batik fabrics. Although I found that
the colors of the Northcott Banyan Batiks
didn’t bleed much, it’s still a very good
idea to pre-wash them.
Here’s a little piece of great-to-know
information: as you are aware, most
fabrics are typically 40” to 42” wide, the
Banyan Batiks fabrics, with selvage,
measure 44¾” wide! Therefore, you’ll
have 44” of usable width. Those 2 to 4
extra inches will come in very handy.
Now, let’s begin cutting our fabrics!
From each of the Nostalgic Vibes and
Primitive Lines fabrics cut two 2¼” strips
from each fabric.
The construction of this quilt is very
much like a Log Cabin quilt block.
Starting on one side of the center block,
sew a strip to each side of the center
block until you have 3 strips per side.
From the neutral Shadows fabric cut:
• (4) 19½” x 19½” squares
• (5) 18¾” x 18¾” squares
• (4) 10½” x 10½” squares
• (4) 4½” x 18¾” strips for border
• (8) 2½” strips for binding
Click the link to download a PDF diagram
on how to efficiently cut fabric your
Shadow fabric.
Fabrics from the Nostalgic Vibes and Primitive
Lines collections
2¼” fabric strip ready to be cut and sewn.
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Here are 2 possible layouts that would
work for this quilt.
Multiple fabrics used randomly to create a colorful
log cabin block.
What the 2 halves will look like using block A.
If we cut diagonally down the center of
the block we’ll end up with little triangles
affecting the block’s symmetry.
Now, to decide which layout you’d prefer
for your quilt top.
I’m using block A’s layout since I love
using lots of colors in my quilts. Block
B, naturally would be my 2nd option as
there would be no 2 identical halves.
Click the link to download a pdf file
containing the cutting instructions for
all three blocks. When your fabrics are
cut, feel free to start sewing the blocks
together!
Note: DO NOT cut your blocks. We’ll talk
about that coming up next!
If you’re still unsure which fabrics you
wish to use, I’d suggest that you check out
the Northcott Banyan Batiks Collections, so
much from which to choose!
6 fabrics, 3 per side, make a great traditionallooking
log cabin block.
When looking at the above photos,
remember that these blocks will be
cut in half diagonally; therefore their
appearance will change a bit.
Here’s a look at what the 2 halves of
block A will look like after the diagonal
cut is made.
If using block A, we’ll have to remove a
2½” strip from the center of the block.
Cutting diagonally down the center leaves little
triangles which affect the symmetry of the block.
For the same reasons as with block
A, we’d have to remove a 2½” strip.
The 2 halves would then create a very
symmetrical look.
This variation gives us 2 precise and distinct halves.
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Safely working on the bias:
making a half log cabin block
Get ready for more cutting and sewing!
Now that our blocks are assembled,
we’re ready to cut diagonally across our
blocks to continue the quilt top.
I opted to use block A’s layout, that is,
multiple fabrics with lots of colors. I
don’t want little triangles to skew the
overall look of my finished quilt top. So,
to avoid triangles, I’ll have to cut in a
creative way! Rather than cut once, I
will be cutting twice.
The method to make my 2 cuts is quick
and simple.
Place a ruler on the 1¼” mark on the line that you have drawn.
Placement of ruler’s 1¼” mark over pencil line.
Once the ruler is in place use a rotary cutter to make a diagonal
cut across the entire block. Then make the same cut on the
opposite side of the line. Repeat this step on all of your blocks.
Making a diagonal directly in the center would
create these orphan triangles.
The first step is to draw a diagonal center
line going from corner to corner on the
light colored 10” square center section of
the block.
Parallel cuts are made on each side of the diagonal line.
Note: After you’ve made the cuts don’t handle the half blocks too
much. Remember, the cuts were made on the fabric’s bias and you
don’t want your half blocks to stretch out of shape.
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on
the center section of the block.
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Next, draw a diagonal line on all 4 – 19½” x 19½” squares of
background fabric.
Repeat this step for all half blocks.
Draw a diagonal line on the 4 pieces of the background fabric.
Gently take 1 of your half blocks and, right side down, line up
its cut edge against the diagonal line that you just drew on the
19½” x 19½” background fabric pieces, pin in place. Remember
not to stretch the half blocks.
Line up and pin 2nd half block on the opposite side of the background fabric line.
When all of the half blocks are placed and pinned, sew along
the diagonal seam ¼” from the aligned edge of the half blocks.
Align the diagonal half block edge with the line drawn on the background fabric.
Place another half block’s cut edge right side up along the
opposite side of the line and pin in place.
Sew a seam ¼” from the diagonal edge.
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Once you’ve finished
sewing, use the rotary
cutter to cut along
the edge of each half
block to separate the
half blocks.
Press the blocks and
square them off to
18¾” x 18¾”.
Squaring off a block at 18¾” x 18¾”
Take a well-deserved
moment to admire your blocks before they’re joined together
in a quilt top.
Photos by Banyan Batiks
2 of the 7 blocks that will be used in our modern quilt.
Separate both half blocks by cutting along edges.
Banyan Batiks Shadow
A great background fabric for a modern quilt
I look forward to finishing this
modern quilt that showcases
Northcott’s Banyan Batiks fabric collections.
We’ve sewed 4 log cabin blocks then
halved them by cutting each block
diagonally. Then we sewed each of
the log cabin block halves to a piece
of background fabric to make 8 blocks
in total.
Northcott’s Banyan Batiks fabric: the Shadows collection
I hope you didn’t find working on the
bias too hazardous, and that you were
careful with your bias edges. Let’s piece
all of our blocks together and start
quilting!
As I was getting ready and cutting the
background fabric, I was admiring it. It
was a great choice. It’s light enough
that it makes a subtle background color,
allowing the other colors to stand out
and shine. This background batik has
enough pattern to give it some interest
without overtaking the space.
Half Log Cabin block paired with background fabric.
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Now, we’ll take all of the pieces of the Shadows collection fabric
that we cut earlier and join them to all of the blocks.
I’ve been playing with the blocks’ placement on my design
wall and was pleasantly surprised when I saw the overall effect.
Design walls are so useful; they allow us to instantly see what’s
really going on with our design concept. You’ll instantly see if
the elements gel, where some need to be changed around, and
what is or isn’t working.
I was expecting a bolder, brighter look to this quilt, but find that
I really like its calm, appeasing look. It will have many aspects
that a modern quilt should have such as:
• no border
• lots of negative space
• linear quilting
After the rows are
sewed, sew the
rows together.
With the quilt top
completed, it’s
quilting time!
We need 3½ yards
of fabric for the
backing and a
package of double
size batting.
Completed quilt top.
Quilt blocks layout on design wall
Once you find a block placement you like, you can sew the rest
of the background fabric pieces into rows as follows:
For this quilt, I’m using Fairfield Low-Loft
Quilt Batting –Double – 81” x 96”. This is a
Poly-Fil Low-Loft quilt batting. The batting
will retain its loft wash after wash and dries
quickly. Something else I enjoy about this
batting is that because it’s lightweight it’s
ideal when you don’t want to add much
additional weight to your project. This is true
when making a baby quilt or when your quilt
top is already large and heavy.
Fairfield battings are also available in the
following sizes:
»»
Crib – 45” x 60”
»»
Double – 81” x 96”
»»
Queen – 90” x 108”
»»
King – 120” x 120”
Since this quilt measures 60½” x 75” before quilting, I decided to
go ahead and quilt it on my own domestic sewing machine.
Another aspect I like about modern quilting is the quilting itself.
I love the use of straight lines, curves or even geometric designs
for the quilting.
I’ll quilt in straight lines, ½” apart using a thread that will blend
nicely with the background fabric.
Here’s a photo to tease you along and show how the straightline
quilting will look.
Keep reading for the grand finale and see how all these fabrics
from the Banyan Batiks collections will look once the quilting
has done its magic!
Row
Half Triangle
Block Quantity
18¾” x 18¾”
Background
Blocks Quantity
18¾” x 18¾”
Other Pieces
Quantity
4½” x 18¾”
1 1 2 1
2 1 2 1
3 2 1 1
4 3 0 1
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Adding interest with linear quilting
Feels bitter sweet: it’s nice to finish the
quilt but the fun is over?
I started and finished quilting the quilt,
so that I could show you the results. As
you’ll see, it’s very linear. This is a style
of quilting that is very popular with
modern quilters.
My first step was to stitch in the ditch
along every previously sewn seam in the
half log cabin blocks.
Using the edge of my quilting foot as a
guide, I followed the first seam and then
repeated the same steps over and over,
sewing parallel lines.
that isn’t so linear
In the quilt’s large negative space, the quilting lines go in 2 directions. I did this to add
more visual interest to the quilt.
TIP The easy way to sew lines going in 2 different directions is to use the seam
between blocks as a pivot point.
Quilt along every seam of the half log cabin blocks.
I kept sewing parallel lines until the very
large negative space was filled along
with the half of each log cabin block that
had negative space.
Use a seam as a turning point to pivot direction when quilting.
I marked a very thin diagonal line in the
half log cabin blocks section. I then used
the line as a pivot point where there are
no seams to use for this purpose.
Following the seams and pivoting
once at the line will give make nice,
sharp corners.
As in the larger negative spaces, I also
used the edge of the walking foot as my
guide to make the parallel lines.
Mark a thin line where your pivot point should be.
Interest and movement are added to
the quilt through the use of multi-directional quilting lines. With all these tips, you’re
now ready to quilt your own modern masterpiece quilt.
Use edge of your quilting foot to make nice
parallel quilting lines.
Pivot 90° on the line.
Parallel lines are also sewn in the half log cabin
portion of the quilt’s block.
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I love the quilting lines, and the Shadows used for
the negative part of the quilt gives this space a
little movement.
Binding
After the quilting is finished, put the
binding on.
On QUILTsocial, Elaine posted a great
tutorial on bindings. Take a couple of
minutes to check out her post!
What a great feeling of accomplishment!
I always enjoy the process of bringing
the quilt I have in my mind’s eye to
life. And I also love sharing with other
passionate quilters!
Putting the rules aside and making
a beautiful modern quilt using
batiks has also made this a lot of fun!
The Nostalgic Vibes, Primitive Lines and
Shadows fabrics from the Northcott
Banyan Batiks collections were just
perfect for this daring, rule-breaking quilt
project.
Have a fantastic quilting time!
I love the quilting lines, and the Shadows used for the negative part
of the quilt gives this space a little movement.
Paul Leger
paullegerquilts.com
48
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49

Tree of Life
Photo Frame
As I was working on this
project I was thinking of
my mom and her life. The
love of her family (children,
grandchildren and great
grandchildren) and her love
of nature were a huge part of
what made this woman such
a special person. I wouldn’t
be the creative spirit that I
am today without the love
and support of my mother. I
wanted to include a branch for
every member of her family
but that would involve an
entire forest so I used buttons
and embellishments to
represent some of the special
people and things that made
her life so special.
Please use the tree design
provided or take this
opportunity to design your
own tree. When the picture
is added to your personalized
frame it will complete the
story of your Tree of Life.
– Cathy
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sewing
skill level intermediate
finished measurements
10” x 13” to fit a 5” x 7” photo
materials
fabric
• 4 pieces 14” x 16” cotton (front, front
lining, back and back lining)
• 2 pieces 14” x 16”
Fairfield Poly-Fil Extra-Loft quilt batting
• stabilizers
* 14” x 16” Sulky Soft’n Sheer
* 14” x 16” Fuse’n Stitch
needles
• Schmetz quilting needle size 90/14
• Schmetz twin metallic needle size
80/12, 2.5mm
notions
• paper
• pencil
• paper scissors
• fusible bias tape
• Feather Nest and Sew Cute Birds Dress
It Up Buttons
• 2 Sulky Blendable threads that match
fusible bias tape
• Gütermann Sew all thread
• black bobbin thread
• Sulky transfer pen
• Sulky KK2000
• iron
• Clover Hold it Precision Stiletto
• HeatnBond pressing sheets
• glass headed pins
• white ink marker
• fabric folding pen
• point turner
• Small Clever Clips
• scissors
• sewing machine
• hand needle
instructions
The size of the photo will determine the
size of the center opening. This pattern
has been created with a 4” x 6” opening
to accommodate a 5” x 7” photo. The lines
on the pattern are the stitching lines.
1. Cut 4 pieces of cotton fabric 14” x 16”.
2. To make a full size pattern place the
template on a folded piece of paper.
Trace and cut out the pattern removing
the paper from inside the oval.
3. Pin the pattern to the right side of the
front fabric. With a temporary fabric
marker trace the pattern. Do not cut
this out – it will be used as a guide to
position the tree pattern.
4. Transfer the tree pattern to the right
hand side of the oval.
Note: Sulky Transfer pens are designed to
transfer patterns from paper to fabric.
This is a permanent transfer and will not
wash out.
Photocopy the tree pattern. Working
on the photocopy trace the tree
branches with a transfer pen in a
colour that will show up on your
fabric (light colour pens will show
up on darker fabrics). Follow the
instructions on the Sulky pens to
transfer the pattern.
TIP Protect your iron and ironing board
from colour transfer with HeatnBond
pressing sheets.
5. Remove paper backing from the
Fusible Bias Tape and pin (with glass
head pins) the tape in place along
lines for the tree branches, building
the tree from the back to the front.
TIP When placing bias tape stretch it
slightly around the curves. Fold ¼” of tape
under on the top ends of the branches.
6. Fuse in place removing the pins as
you go.
7. Make a quilt sandwich as follows:
Sulky Soft’n Sheer, quilt batting
and fabric from step 4 (right side
up). Use Sulky KK2000 to secure the
layers together.
Products used
With a temporary fabric marker trace the pattern. This will
be used as a guide to position the tree pattern.
Q
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To give the tree some depth, sew down the
back branches first. Start at the top ends of
the branches and stitch toward the trunk.
1. Repeat steps 5 to 7 with extra fabric
to make a test sample. Set up for
twin needle stitching and practice
on this sample before stitching your
final project. Refer to twin needle
information for tips and set up. When
you’re happy with your sample
stitching move to next step.
Create your Tree of Life
Sewing Machine Set up
Needle: 2.5/80 Twin Metallic needle
Top thread: 2 Sulky Blendables 30 wt.
threads
Bobbin thread: black bobbin thread
Stitch: zigzag
Stitch Width: medium (see note below)
Stitch Length: 4mm
Tension: loosen tension by one number
1. To give the tree some depth, sew down
the back branches first. Start at the top
ends of the branches and stitch toward
the trunk. Do not back stitch when
starting and leave a 3” thread tail at the
tops of each branch. Trim the threads at
the bottom of the branch that will be
tucked under the trunk.
2. Stitch trunk in place making sure
branches are tucked under it as you go.
3. Pull the threads tails from the ends of
the branches to the back and secure.
Construction of the Photo Frame
Sewing Machine Set up
Needle: quilting needle size 90/12
Top thread: Gütermann Sew All thread
Bobbin thread: Gütermann Sew All thread
Stitch: straight stitch
Length: 2mm
Tension: normal
1. Turn the embellished front right side
down on table. Line up the paper
pattern using the stitching on the
branches of the tree as a guide and
trace the center oval with a fabric
marking pen, this will be drawn on the
Soft’n Sheer.
2. Place front lining right sides together
with the embellished front. Using the
line made in Step 1 as the sewing line,
stitch the oval.
3. Cut out inside of oval grading and
trimming to approx. ¼”. Clip the
curves. For a crisper turn: run the
fabric folding pen along the stitching
line on front and back.
4. Turn right side out and press.
5. Bond Sulky Fuse’n Stitch to the back of
the second piece of batting.
6. Pin the paper pattern to the Sulky
Fuse’n Stitch. With a fabric marker
trace complete pattern onto the
Fuse’n Stitch. Do not cut anything.
7. On a flat surface make a quilt
sandwich in the following order: back
(right side up), front frame (right side
down), inside back fabric (right side
down), batting with Sulky Fuse’n Stitch
(right side up: you can see the pattern
you traced). Check the alignment
feeling the oval opening to make sure
it’s aligned. Pin well.
8. Stitch the outside edge, leaving a 4”
opening on the side seam without
the tree.
9. Trim away the batting and the Sulky
Fuse’n Stitch as close as possible to
the stitching line. Clip curves on the
corners. Trim all seams to ¼” but do
not cut out the center. Run fabric
folding pen along stitching lines on
both sides.
10. Reach inside between the front and
back and pull right side out.
11. Use a point turner to help get nice
crisp corners.
12. Press and slip stitch the opening closed.
13. Embellish with bird and/or bird
house buttons.
14. Insert a picture of that special person.
TIP If the picture slides within the frame
you can use double sided tape or Velcro
buttons on back of the picture and inside
of the frame to hold it in place.
Q
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About Metallic Twin Needles
Every zigzag sewing machine can use a twin needle. Twin needles will add a
new twist and look to basic machine stitching. Sometimes I find the simpler
the stitch the better the result. Twin needles now come in many widths
starting at 1.6mm going up to 8mm.
There are also different sized eyes available. When choosing the twin needle
take the following into consideration:
• y The opening on the foot and the needle plate of the sewing machine. Check
your sewing machine manual to find out the width of the opening on the
needle plate.
• y The weight of the fabric. When using a straight stitch and a twin needle
that’s too wide, lightweight fabric will tunnel or pucker.
• y Width of decorative stitches. The rule of thumb is, the width of your twin
needle plus the width of your stitch cannot exceed the opening on your
needle plate and foot.
• y How dense the stich is. Dense stitches do not stitch out well.
• y Weight of the thread. A heavy thread will require a larger eye.
Why use a metallic twin needle for this project when metallic thread isn’t used?
A metallic needle has a much larger eye than a universal twin needle. 30 wt
Blendable thread is heavier than embroidery or quilting thread so it needs the
larger eye. Everyone should have a metallic twin needle in their stash as this
will allow the use of different weights of threads in a twin needle.
Steps for using a twin needle with decorative thread
and decorative stitches.
1. Thread the machine as per your machine manual. Note: Use a thread stand.
2. Work on test fabric that is set up the same as the project; sew a
straight stitch.
3. Choose an open decorative stitch (stay away from satin stitches and
complex stitches).
4. Double-check the width, if your machine has a setting for a twin needle,
use it. If not, narrow the stitch down so it will fit into the foot and needle
plate opening.
5. Hold the thread tails and start to sew slowly to make sure the thread is
passing easily through the needle eye and not hanging up on the fabric.
TIP If you’re not sure about the width of the stitch hand turn the whole stitch
before stitching.
6. When you’re happy with the stitch, stitch slowly on the project without
changing anything.
7. Twin Needle TIP When purchasing twin needles buy them in two’s. If you
break a needle as you’re sewing you must replace it with the exact same
sized needle. A different size needle will stitch out differently and your
stitching will not be the same.
For more information
About
quilting with
a twin needle,
see our posts on
QUILTsocial.com
January 15 - 19,
2018
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Funky Lovebirds
Bolster Pillow
These fun and funky
lovebirds will add a touch of
whimsy to your bedroom or
family room décor.
Use your Brother sewing
machine and ScanNCut to
create this bright and happy
bolster pillow.
54
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quilting
Brother THE Dream Machine XV8500D
Embroidery, Sewing, Quilting, & Crafting
Brother ScanNCut CM650W
skill level intermediate
finished measurement
circumference x length 27" x 24" [69 x 61cm]
materials
fabric
• 14” x 28” [36 x 71cm] fabric for main section of pillow
• 10” x 28” [25.5 x 71cm] fabric for side sections of pillow
• 10" x 10" [25.5 x 25.5cm] fabric scraps for each: birds, branch
and heart
• 4" x 60" [10 x 152.4cm] fabric for piping
Note: Either purchased bias piping or cut bias strips of fabric to make
your own
• 8” x 8” [20.5 x 20.5cm] felt square
notions
• thread and wound bobbins
• pins
• rotary cutter, ruler and mat
• marking tools
• spray baste (optional)
• 60” cording for piping
• 2 pieces 14” long string
• 2 round decorative buttons
• 1 heart shaped button
• medium tack cutting mat (CAMATM12)
• scanning mat (CAMATS12)
• Iron-on Fabric Appliqué contact sheet (CASTBL1)
• bolster pillow form (20” long x 26” circumference)
Note: Or your choice of bolster size. Fabric required and
measurements will need to be adjusted depending upon size of
bolster pillow.
equipment
• Brother Sewing Machine (any Brother sewing machine from
the XV, NQ or VQ series)
• zipper foot (included with the machine)
• Brother ScanNCut CM650W
• iron and ironing board
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Designs on Scanning Mat
Fabric on Scanning Mat
Designs centered on fabric
Attaching the piping to center panel
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instructions
Appliqué
1. Place bird and branch diagram on
Scanning Mat of your ScanNCut and
select Scan to Cut Data.
2. Save the design to the machine.
3. Fuse appliqué backing to the wrong
side of the fabric for birds, branch
and heart.
4. Position appliqué fabric to ScanNCut
Medium Tack mat fabric side down.
All pieces of fabric will fit on one mat.
5. Recall the “Saved Design”.
Note: Cut the two birds on the fabric so
the fabric is RS up when the birds are
facing each other. Be sure to change the
number to ‘2’.
6. Add a “Test Cut”.
7. Load the mat.
8. Scan the mat to position the cutting
shapes in the desired location on
the mat.
9. Press cut. ScanNCut will first cut the
“Test Cut”. Adjust blade setting if
necessary.
10. Continue to cut appliqué shapes.
11. Remove cut appliqué shapes from
mat and set aside.
Prepare the piping
1. Determine how much piping
is required by measuring the
circumference of the bolster pillow.
Multiply by 2 and add 4”.
2. Cut cord for piping to desired length.
3. Cut 2½” x 60” bias strips from piping
fabric the same length as piping cord.
4. Place cord in the middle of the piping
fabric strip.
5. Place zipper foot on sewing
machine and stitch close to the
piping cord encasing the cord to
create the piping.
6. Cut covered piping in half to create 2
pieces for the pillow.
Prepare pillow cover
1. With RS together, lay piping along
the right edge of center panel. Be
sure to line up the piping to the right
side edges of fabric. Continue to use
the zipper foot. Stitch on top of the
previous line of stitching.
2. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to stitch piping
to the left side of the center front
panel.
Appliqué center panel
1. Position appliqué pieces on
center panel.
2. Cut 2 small triangles from the
remaining scrap fabric from the
branch and position as beaks on
the birds.
3. Press in place to adhere all
appliqué pieces.
Free motion embroidery around the bird
4. Free motion stitch around the bird,
heart and branch.
5. Add legs and feet to the birds.
6. Stitch heart button on heart.
Assemble pillow
1. With RS together stitch the side panels
and center panels together to form
a circular tube, matching the places
where the piping ends.
Attaching side panels
Instruction photos by Lynn Swanson

THE DREAM MACHINE 2
Luxury in every detail
Loaded with enhanced features, this machine lets you dream big. The perfect pick for true enthusiasts,
it delivers an incomparable sewing, embroidery and quilting experience.
Industry Firsts
Exclusive
Innoveye ® 2 technology
For precise positioning.
It’s like having a built-in
camera and scanner.
Enhanced My Design Center
Easy-to-use design capabilities
make your projects unique,
all without a PC.
Large LCD screen
10.1” built-in high definition
LCD screen with intuitive
user interface.
Disney is in our DNA
Only THE Dream Machine 2
has the magic of 166 Disney
embroidery designs built right in.
Visit your Brother authorized dealer,
or go to brother.ca to discover more.
Photos are for illustration purposes only. The XV8550D shown in this ad has been manufactured by Brother Industries, Ltd., under a licensing agreement with Disney Enterprise Inc., through which Brother has permission to use the Disney images.
The embroidery designs built into the embroidery machine are for personal use within the home only and may not be used for business or industrial purposes. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are
subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies. The Best Buy Seal and other licensed materials are registered certification marks and trademarks of Consumers Digest
Communications, LLC, used under license. For award information visit ConsumersDigest.com. ©2018 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. ©Disney 04/2018_18-0038
57

2. Turn under ¼” at each end of the side
panels and press. Then turn under 1”
along long edge of both side panels
and press. Stitch 7⁄8” from the edge to
stitch hem in place; then stitch ½”
from edge to form a channel.
3. Thread cord through the channels
created at each end of the bolster
pillow to create a drawstring.
4. Slip pillow form into the pillow tube.
5. Pull the drawstring together to close
the gap at one end of the pillow.
Securely tie a knot.
6. Insert pillow form into pillow case.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 at the other end
of the pillow case.
8. Cut two circles from the felt
(approximately 3” wide in order to
cover the drawstring opening on
each end)
9. Stitch a button to the center of each
of the 2 felt circles.
10. Position felt circle over each end of
the pillow where it has been drawn
together.
11. Hand stitch in place.
12. ENJOY!
Lynn Swanson
Brother Educator
Western Canada
www.brother.ca
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Dual Duty XP® combines superior strength & durability
with a smooth finish for trouble-free sewing.
DUAL DUTY XP®
The "Xtra Performance" All Purpose Thread.
World’s leading thread company for over 200 years.
makeitcoats.com
15-020 © 2015 Coats & Clark. All rights reserved. Coats & Clark is a registered trademark.
59

Wedding Memories
designing and stitching
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a wedding wallhanging

machine embroidery
PFAFF® creative icon machine with extension table
This is a very creative way to
commemorate the wedding of
a loved-one. You can make it
as it is suggested here, or add
more embroidery to match the
desired look. Use an embroidery
machine and PREMIER+ 2
Embroidery Software to match
your unlimited creativity.
PREMIER+ 2 Embroidery software
skill level Intermediate
finished measurements 19” x 19” [48 x 48cm]
materials
fabric
• 24” [61cm] square fabric for background
• 12” x length of fabric [30.5cm x length of fabric] strip of
fabric for border
• 12” x length of fabric [30.5cm x length of fabric] strip of
fabric for binding
• 24” [61cm] square fusible batting
• 24” [61cm] square fabric for backing
sewing feet used
• 0A Sewing foot
• 1A Decorative foot
• 6D Dynamic Embroidery foot
software
• PREMIER+ 2 ULTRA Embroidery System
needles
• size 90 Topstitch needle
• size 80 Universal needle
threads
• assorted colours of Robison-Anton® 40wt Rayon thread
• 60wt bobbin thread
• sewing thread
stabilizers
• INSPIRA Tear Away Stabilizer
other
• embroidery machine – the PFAFF® creative icon was used
to make the sample
• creative Grand Dream Hoop 360mm x 350mm
• creative Quilter’s Hoop 200mm x 200mm
• rotary ruler cutter and mat
• Sewing Revolution 17” Block Marker or other square ruler
• water soluble marker
• Mary Ellen’s Best Press
• INSPIRA scissors
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instructions
Preparation
1. Fuse the background fabric to the fusible batting.
2. Cut the border strips 3” wide by the length of the fabric.
3. Spray and press the border strips with Mary Ellen’s Best
Press several times so they are a bit stiff.
4. Cut the binding strips 3” wide.
5. Press the binding strips in half lengthwise.
6. Mark the vertical and horizontal centerlines on the 24”
background fabric.
Creating the embroidery
1. Open PREMIER+ 2 ULTRA Embroidery System.
2. Click on the PREMIER+ 2 Embroidery icon.
3. Click on Change Hoop on the top Toolbar.
4. In the Hoop Group select PFAFF® creative icon.
5. Click on Enter Hoop Size and enter 350mm x 350mm. Click
Ok. This will be our working size for our project.
6. Click on the SuperDesign Tab. Select Category Hearts.
7. Click on #9 Doves.
8. Change the size to 150mm.
9. Click Apply.
10. If the doves are not in the center of the hoop, click on
the Home Tab. Then click on Alignment and click on
Center in Hoop.
11. Click on #3 the Hearts with the Arrows.
12. Change the size to 55mm. Click Apply.
13. Click the arrow on the left of the Selection Box to mirror the
design side to side.
14. Click on the Encore Tab.
15. Select the Line option, the Mirror option and Straight Line.
16. Change the Repeats to 2. Click Preview.
17. Click inside the box and move it to the top of the hoop and
center on the vertical centerline.
18. Click on the white box on the right side and pull it across
the screen just inside the edges of the hoop. Click Apply.
19. Click on the Home Tab.
20. Click on Copy and click on Paste.
21. Click on Rotate 45 4 times so that the design is mirrored to
the top one.
22. Click inside the box and move it to the bottom of the hoop
and center on the vertical centerline.
23. Click on the SuperDesign Tab. Click on #3 the Hearts with
the Arrows.
24. Click Apply.
25. Click on the Home Tab.
26. Click on Rotate 45 six times so that the design is sideways
with the heart tips facing the center of the block.
27. Click on the Encore Tab.
28. Select the Line option, the Mirror option and Straight Line.
29. Change the Repeats to 2. Click Preview.
30. Click on the white box at the side and pull it across the
center of the quilt to just inside the edges of the hoop.
Click Apply.
31. Click inside the box and move it to the center of the hoop.
32. Click on the Letter Tab.
33. Click on the down arrow and scroll to the Font Category.
Select Nimbus 15-45.
34. Change the size to 25mm. Click Apply.
35. Type “Marriage of” and click Apply.
36. Move the lettering to the top of the screen about 3 grids
from the top and centered on the vertical line.
37. Change the size to 28mm.
38. Type the Bride’s name. Click Apply. If the lettering is too big
make the lettering size smaller by 2mm.
39. Move the lettering to about 2 grids above the Doves and
centered on the vertical centerline.
40. Type the Groom’s name. Click Apply.
41. Move the lettering to about 2 grids under the Doves and
centered on the vertical centerline.
42. Change the size to 25mm.
43. Type the wedding date. Click Apply.
44. Move the lettering to about 2 grids above the lower edge of
the hoop.
45. Click on File Menu and then click Save As and save it as
Wedding Memories.vp4. This saves it as a working file so
that it can be edited anytime.
46. When stitching in a large turnable hoop the designs are split
into two pieces. We do not want the Doves to be split so we
will stitch them after the lettering and hearts in a 200mm x
200mm hoop. Therefore, we need to create a separate file
for the Doves.
47. Click on the Doves and click Cut.
48. Click on the File Menu.
49. Click on New Window.
50. Click on Paste.
51. Click on the File Menu.
52. Click on Export and export as Doves.vp3.
53. Close the window.
54. Now we are back in our original design window with
the hearts and lettering. Click on Change Hoop on the
top toolbar.
55. In the Hoop Group select PFAFF® creative icon with Natural
Orientation.
56. Select the 350mm x 360mm creative Grand Dream Hoop.
57. Click on the File Menu and click on Export and name the file
Wedding Memories.vp3.
58. This file is ready to be stitched in the creative Grand
Dream hoop.
Set up your machine for embroidery
1. Attach the 6D Dynamic Embroidery foot.
2. Insert size 90 Top Stitch needle.
3. Attach the embroidery unit.
4. Thread with Robison-Anton® 40wt Rayon thread on top and
60wt bobbin thread on the bottom.
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Instruction photos by Kerrin Brookes

Embroidering the design in the creative Grand Dream Hoop (350mm x
360mm) and creative Quilter’s Hoop (200mm x 200mm)
1. Place INSPIRA Tear Away Stabilizer under the 24” square of background
fabric.
2. Center and hoop the background fabric using the center markings in the
creative Grand Dream Hoop.
3. Stitch according to the directions for the creative Grand Dream hoop.
4. Remove from the creative Grand Dream hoop.
5. Center and hoop the background fabric in the creative Quilter’s Hoop using
the center markings.
6. Stitch the doves.
Construction
1. Center the Sewing Revolution 17” Ruler on the embroidered wallhanging.
2. Draw a square around the Sewing Revolution 17” Ruler with the water soluble
marker.
3. Cut 2 – 3” x 17” border strips.
4. Place the strip on the side of the embroidered wallhanging with the edges
just touching the marked line.
5. On the PFAFF® creative icon, select the Sewing option.
6. Select one of the Floating stiches.
7. Thread with Robison-Anton® 40wt Rayon thread.
8. Attach the 1A foot and engage the IDT.
9. Place the edge of the foot along the edge of the border strip. Stitch the
selected Floating stitch.
10. Open out the seam to see the beautiful Floating stitches.
11. Repeat on the opposite side.
12. Cut 2 – 3” x 22” border strips.
13. Stitch the border strips on the top and bottom with the Floating stitches.
14. Square up the wallhanging and trim away any excess fabric.
15. Tear away the stabilizer.
16. Pin the backing to the back of the wallhanging.
17. Quilt as desired.
18. Stitch on the binding using your favourite method.
Kerrin Brookes
Sewing and Software Specialist, SVP Canada Inc.
www.pfaff.com
PFAFF, CREATIVE, CREATIVE ICON, PREMIER + and INSPIRA
are trademarks of SingerSourcing Limited LLC,
©2017 Singer Sourcing Limited LLC.
Place the edge of the foot along the edge of the
border strip.
Stitching the selected Floating Stitch with IDT
System engaged
When the seam is opened, the Floating Stitches are revealed.
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63

KETAN, pronounced “kay-tan”,
is colourful, holiday rice from
Indonesia. Ketan is offered in
an array of colours for every
Indonesian celebration and is
always the food staple that mixes
perfectly into any meal. The
rice motif and its multitude of
colours are the inspiration for
Banyan Batiks’ mixer program.
Similar to the colourful, holiday
rice in Indonesian culture,
Banyan Batiks’ Ketan fabrics
mix perfectly into any batik
project. With a range of 80
beautiful colours to choose
from, this mixer program acts
as the perfect complement
in every quilt project.
Flash of
Flamingo
Quilt
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skill level easy
finished measurements
62” x 74” [157.5 x 188cm]
materials
fabric
Fabrics from Ketan by Banyan Batiks
(a division of Northcott):
• 2yd [1.83m] – pink contrast 81000-282
Cut 14 strips measuring 2½” x wof
»»
Sub cut 148 rectangles measuring
2½” x 3½”
Cut 4 strips measuring 3½” x wof
(outer side border)
Cut 7 strips measuring 2½” x WOF
for the binding. Join end to end
using a diagonal seam.
• 3yd [2.8m] – blues/greens for the strips
(81000-715, 81000-732, 81000-710,
81000-612, 81000-782, 81000-625,
81000-433, 81000-633, 81000-627,
81000-621, 81000-467, 81000-465)
Cut 148 rectangles measuring
2½” x 11½”
• 4yd [3.7m] – backing
pieced crosswise
other
• matching thread
• rotary cutter
• cutting mat
• ruler
• pin
quilting
Instructions
Assembly
1. Join a pink rectangle to each of the
blue/green rectangles. 148 units total.
2. Divide these units into four groups of 37.
3. Place the units on the design wall in
FOUR columns, alternating the end with
the pink.
4. Sew the units into columns. To make it
easy to assemble, press the seams in the
1st and 3rd column UP and the seams in
the 2nd and 4th column DOWN.
Outer side border
1. Join two strips of the 3½” pink border on
the diagonal. Do this twice to get two
lengths of fabric for the outer border.
2. Cut TWO pieces of fabric that equal
the vertical length of the quilt (take
the measurement through the vertical
center of the quilt).
3. Match the center of the outer side
border to the side center of the quilt
and pin.
4. Match the ends of the outer side border
to both ends of the quilt and pin. You
may have to ease the border or the quilt.
5. Sew the seams.
6. Press toward the border.
Banyan Batiks’
Ketan fabrics
mix perfectly
into any batik
project.
Elaine Theriault
www.northcott.com
Q
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.com | issue 11 65

QUILTsocial bloggers
in this issue
Julie Plotniko
juliesquiltclass.blogspot.com
Julie Plotniko is a quilting teacher,
blogger and designer from Vancouver
Island in British Columbia, Canada.
Teaching for almost 40 years, recent
credits include Quilt Canada 2016
and 2017, many quilt guilds and
groups throughout Canada and
CreativFestival Sewing and Craft
Shows in Victoria, Abbotsford and
Toronto. When not on the road Julie
works and teaches at Snip & Stitch
Sewing Center in Nanaimo, BC. Her
favorite things include free motion
quilting (standard bed and midarm
machines), precision piecing,
scrap quilting, machine embroidery,
blogging, designing and of course
teaching. Julie believes that to
see a student go from tentative
beginnings to having confidence in
themselves and their abilities is one
of the greatest rewards that life has
to offer.
Christine Baker
FairfieldRoadDesigns.com
Christine has been designing and
publishing quilt patterns for the
last 10 years under the business
name Fairfield Road Designs.
Her patterns range from fusible
applique and piecing to felted wool
applique and punchneedle. You can
see all her patterns on her website.
Paul Léger
paullegerquilts.com
I took my first quilting course in
September 1994 in Barrie, Ontario,
near the armed forces base where
I was stationed. After moving to
Ottawa in 1996, I joined my first
guild. I took more courses and
began to buy quilting books and
lots of fabrics. Quilting has become
my passion. I have made over 150
more quilts since then, and have
never looked back. I now share my
knowledge of quilting by teaching
and doing presentations, and
blogging!
Claire Haillot
quiltingwithclaire.com
Married with three young boys,
Claire Haillot shares her passion
for quilting among her neighbors
in the United States and
Canada as well as her cousins in
France. Claire has been active
in the quilting industry since
2004. In 2006, she started her
own line of patterns and later
began publishing patterns and
articles in Canadian, European
and American magazines. She
collaborated with PlumEasy
patterns to launch the Dancing
Diamonds. Claire has also won
a few awards for her work. Most
recently her quilt Remembering
Sotchi won Best of Show in
special exhibit A Celebration of
Color at the International Quilt
Festival in Chicago April 2018.
Q
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You’ll fall for Stonehenge Maplewood, the stunning new autumn-inspired collection by Helen Knott and
Linda Ludovico! The exquisitely detailed panel print is complemented with a variety of full width ombre
leaf prints, patterns and textures. Maplewood comes in two beautiful colorways: Scarlet emphasizes autumn
golds,rich oranges, and burnt red maple leaves, and Woodland features crisp forest greens, teals, and creams.
View the entire collection and all of the patterns at www.northcott.com and use the
product finder tool to locate a shop near you that carries this line.
Quilt shown: Maplewood Trail • 64 1/2” x 64 1/2” • By Daphne Greig of Patchworks Studio
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don't miss these
projects & tutorials online!
Q
UILTsocial
.com
Quilting
farmyard fun pot
holders for the
kitchen
READ NOW
READ NOW
READ NOW
Creativity with a leftover
Banyan Batik block
and there's so much more!
Piecing & quilting the boho
inspired quilted cushion cover
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BUSINESS DIRECTORY To list your business in this space please call 1.866.969.2678.
Brenda Franklin Designs
7570 Mapleton SR 18 RR 1, Alma, ON N0B 1A0
519.638.9958 bfdesigns.on.ca
help@bfdesigns.on.ca
More than 500 charts available for counted
needlework, latch hook rugs, beadwork, beaded
knits and knitting patterns. Mail/fax order or ask
for our products at your local shop. Contact us for
custom designs or needle felted sculpture.
Brampton Sew & Serge
289 Rutherford Rd S, Unit 7, Brampton, ON L6W 3R9
905.874.1564 sewnserge.com
monique@bramptonsewnserge.com
Welcome to Your One Stop Sewing Centre! We are
authorized dealers of Baby Lock, Husqvarna Viking,
and Singer sewing machines and sergers. We also
offer a full schedule of sewing classes for everyone.
Bytowne Threads - Ottawa, ON
1.888.831.4095 bytownethreads.com
mlj@bytownethreads.com
Featuring Aurifil thread from Italy. Long staple
Egyptian cotton threads - 270 colours in 12, 28, 40
and 50 wt; 88 colours in 80 wt. Polyester Aurilux -
240 high sheen colours. Wool threads - 192 colours.
Many kits available. Check our website!
Canadian National Fabric - Melancthon, ON
https://canadiannationalfabric.com/
info@canadiannationalfabric.com
We are an online fabric shoppe offering a wide
variety of fabrics, patterns, books and notions for all
your sewing needs. Flat rate Canada wide shipping
of $5 with FREE SHIPPING for orders over $75. Shop
in person available by appointment!
Country Concessions
1 Dufferin St, Cookstown, ON L0L 1L0
705.458.4546 or toll-free 1.888.834.4407
countryconcessions.com
info@countryconcessions.com
Visit our lovely and unique quilt shop in the quaint
village of Cookstown. We have over 7000 bolts of
cotton fabrics plus a wide selection of patterns, books
& notions. You will be so glad you came for a visit.
Gitta's
271 Lakeshore Rd E, Mississauga, ON L5G 1G8
905.274.7198 gittas.com
questions@gittas.com
Gitta's, named after owner Gitta Al-Basi, nestled in
the east village of Port Credit, is the place where
stitchers meet with their stitching friends, shop for
stitching supplies and see the new stitching designs
from Europe and the United States.
Hardanger House, designs by Betty Stokoe
PO Box 1223, Stettler, AB T0C 2L0
403.742.2749 bettystokoe@gmail.com
tnplisting.com/hardanger-house.html
Hardanger embroidery charts and kits. Designs
feature contemporary adaptations of this traditional
cutwork embroidery from Norway. Shop online
at etsy.com/shop/HardangerHouse. Some digital
downloads available.
Haus of Stitches
626 Main Street, Humboldt, SK S0K 2A0
306.682.0772 or toll-free 1.800.344.6024
hausofstitches.ca
Our one of a kind store offers everything you need
for sewing, quilting, knitting, rug hooking and
needlework. Authorized dealers for Janome and Elna.
Heartfelt Fibre Arts
42 Industrial St, Toronto, ON M4G 1Y9
647.920.3616 heartfeltfibrearts.com
info@hearftfeltfibrearts.com
Canadian Fibre Arts supply store specializing in
high-quality, unique fibre and tools for all of your
knitting, felting, rug hooking and stitching needs.
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Impressions Embroidery & Engraving
#8-449 Mayor Magrath Dr S, Lethbridge, AB T1J 3L8
403.942.3934 impressionslethbridge.ca
impressions22@shaw.ca
Our shop does embroidery and laser engraving.
Laser engraving is a beautiful process for fabric,
as nothing cuts cleaner and more precisely than a
laser. We now carry a nice array of fabric as well to
compliment the abilities of the laser.
Kelly's Creative Sewing
804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1
902.435.7380 kellyscreativesewing.ca
kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com
We offer sales and on-site service of high-end
domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers,
as well as a variety of educational programs.
Needles & Knits
15040 Yonge St, Aurora, ON L4G 1M4
905.713.2066 needlesandknits.com
Fabulous selection of yarns. Extremely
knowledgable and expert help. Cozy and friendly
atmosphere. Classes. Guild night every first Tuesday
of the month. Tea with Tove, the owner, every
Thursday from 6-8pm.
Needleworker's Delight / Silkweaver Fabrics
Plaza K 181 Route 1 South, Metuchen, NJ 08840
732-388-4545 needleworkersdelight.com
info@needleworkersdelight.com
Standard & specialty Zweigart Fabrics & canvas,
hand-dyed fabrics, floss, fibers, towels, tableware,
leaflets/designs, painted canvases, notions, tools,
baby items, home decor, and so much more!
Pine Ridge Knit & Sew
17477 Hwy 2 PO Box 68, Trenton, ON K8V 5R1
613.392.1422 pineridgeknitsew.com
yvette@pineridgeknitsew.com
We have knitting machines by Artisan and Silver
Reed, embroidery machines by Husqvarna/Viking
& White. Sewing notions and supplies, books and
software. Hands-on lessons and classes. Wide variety
of yarns, threads, dress and pant zippers.
Ruby Pearl Quilts
500 King St W, Suite 8, Oshawa, ON L1J 2K9
905.436.3535 rubypearlquilts.com
joy@rubypearlquilts.com
We are your full service source of professional quilting
equipment, products, & courses. Led by 44 years of
sewing experience & more than 20 years of quilting
experience, we have the experience necessary to help
you push your hobby to the next level!
Serenity Knits
525 Brooker Ridge #102, Newmarket, ON L3X 2M2
905.710.3283 serenityknits.ca
info@serenityknits.ca
We offer a wide selection of high quality yarns as well
as needles, hooks, patterns and notions. We also offer
a large variety of classes from beginner to the more
advanced.
Sew Fancy Inc.
Guelph, ON
519.824.4127 sewfancy.com
sales@sewfancy.com
Your Premier Canadian Source for Specialty Sewing
Supplies including Smocking, Heirloom Sewing,
Goldwork, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Needle Tatting,
Swarovski Crystals, Sashiko, Quilting and more. Visit
the website for the latest in sewing supplies.
Sew Inspired
375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6
613.623.0500 sewinspired.ca
info@sewinspired.ca
Your Ottawa Valley PFAFF® Authorized Dealer. We
have a large supply of quilting & sewing supplies,
knitting supplies, as well as in stock PFAFF® sewing
machines. We also have a listing of sewing and
quilting classes.
Sew With Vision
480 Parkland Dr, Halifax, NS B3S 1P9
902.479.2227 sewwithvision.net
Authorized PFAFF, HUSQVARNA VIKING, and SINGER
dealer and service provider offering an extensive
line of sewing, embroidery and serger machines, as
well as long-arm quilting systems.
That Sewing Place
16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3
905.715.7725 thatsewingplace.ca
jaret&liana@thatsewingplace.ca
Introducing That Sewing Place as your sewing
source and Authorized Dealers for Bernina and
Brother machines. Jaret & Liana focus on placing
your sewing needs first, providing outstanding
support, service, and training.
The Quilt Store / Evelyn's Sewing Centre
17817 Leslie St, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6
905.853.7001 or toll-free 1.888.853.7001
The Quilt Store West
695 Plains Rd E, Unit 6, Burlington, ON L7T 2E8
905.631.0894 or toll-free 1.877.367.7070
thequiltstore.ca
Now with 2 locations to serve you, we are your Quilt
Store Destination! The staff here at The Quilt Store
is always on hand to provide Quilt Wisdom, Quilt
Inspiration and most of all we pride ourselves as the
place to make... All Your Quilt Dreams Come True!
The Stitcher's Muse
99 Commercial Street, Nanaimo, BC V9R 5G3
250.591.6873 thestitchersmuse.com
info@thestitchersmuse.com
A divine little shop with supplies for all your hand
stitching needs! Friendly, knowledgeable, helpful
staff. Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint,
embroidery, counted thread, lace making and
more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools.
The Yarn Guy
15 Gower St, Toronto, ON M4B 1E3
416.752.1828 or toll-free 1.800.836.6536
theyarnguy.com info@sewknit.ca
See us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter!
Knitting machines, sewing machines, repairs, parts
for Passap, Studio, Singer, Silver Reed, Superba,
White. Sewing notions and supplies, books, ball
yarns, coned yarns, TAMM yarns, Paton's yarns,
Bernat yarns, Phentex yarns, Bernat kits & crafts.
Ultimate Sewing Centre
191 Bloor St East, Oshawa, ON L1H 3M3
905.436.9193 ultimatesewing.com
ultimatesewing@bellnet.ca
For all your sewing needs be sure to call Durham’s
largest one stop shop: Janome and Elna Sewing
Machines, Sergers, & Embroidery machines,
over 3000 bolts of first quality cottons, Floriani
Embroidery supplies, the latest notions, books, &
patterns, year round classes, and so much more!
Upper Canada Quiltworks
PO Box 64, Brockville, ON K6V 5T7
613.345.3956 Fax: 613.342.3327
uppercanadaquiltworks.com
Visit us online for a wide selection quilt patterns
and books. Techniques include felted wool, fusible
appliqué, punchneedle, rag quilting and printing
photos on fabric.

Get more quilting fun in
A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD
QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS
A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD
A Needle Pulling Thread
QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS
2018 Issue 47
84
The Beauty of
Texture
Surface Honeycomb Stitch
60
16
30
Exploring
painting
&
needlework
Thoughtful Soles
Wiggle Room socks
Volume 13 Issue 2
Artist Reviews
with
Lise Belanger
Claire Haillot
Make
H
& Be
appy!
Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order!
Click on the cover to
see the FREE sampler