Crave__February_2018

Words Iris Wong
THE SPACE
It’s hard to miss COA, despite being tucked away
on quiet Shin Hing Street, thanks to its hand-drawn
wall mural of Mayahuel, the Aztec goddess of
fertility and also the goddess of agave. Named after
the machete-like tool for harvesting agave, COA is
a subterranean, Oaxaca-inspired cocktail bar in the
cosy space formerly occupied by NEO Cocktail Club.
In place of NEO’s pinball machines and colourful
furniture, expect industrial-chic raw concrete walls,
Edison light bulbs, dark wooden tables and, behind
the bar, an imposing display of agave-based spirits
stacked in the formation of an Aztec pyramid.
THE COCKTAIL
Likemanypeople,weonceappreciatedtequilaasa
party fuel, and one we’ve avoided since we started
going home early muttering, “Sorry, I’m working
tomorrow”. But COA helmsman and bar veteran
JayKhanisheretoeducateus.Flipopenthebar’s
menu – aka the Agave Bible – to find a dizzying
list of tequila, raicilla, sotol and mezcal made from
different agave varieties, including some that have
been redistilled with turkey or chicken breast. Ask
for the bartender’s recommendations if you want to
try the spirits straight, or opt for the cocktails. Up
first, and our favourite of the night, is tepache ($80),
naturally fermented with pineapple and wild yeast,
with a touch of cinnamon. Fresh, fruity, slightly fizzy
and lightly alcoholic, the tepache slips down easily.
Next up is horchata de pistacho ($90), a concoction
of Ocho Blanco, house-made pistachio orgeat, lemon,
eggwhiteandsweetpotatodust.It’screamyandnutty,
like a liquid dessert. We couldn’t leave without a sip
of the DelMagueyPechuga($298/glass), made by
suspending a whole chicken breast (pechuga) in the
still for 24 hours in a third distillation of the mezcal.
Servedinalittlegourdcup,ithasasavoury,fruity
nose,andissmoothandsmokyonthepalatewitha
subtle chicken flavour. Or perhaps that was just our
imagination. We finish with Mezcal Paloma ($100),
a citrusy and smoky libation of Montelobos mezcal,
Tequila Cabeza, grapefruit soda, lime and salt.
THE VERDICT
COAgetsapatonthebackforitsdedicationand
honestapproachtoagavespirits.Thecocktailsarea
delight, and navigating the menu and sampling
hard-to-find spirits gave us some insight into a new
world. Hong Kong may not be embracing mezcal and
tequilajustyet,butiftheydobecomethecity’s next
gin, COA may very well be responsible.
6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central | T 2813 5787