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KNITmuch | Issue 07

Welcome to a new issue of KNITmuch magazine! We review four yarns, two yarns created with natural fibers and two with acrylics. Check them out! See how they are constructed, the fiber content, how they knit up, and suggestions for knitting projects. I'm talking about Uptown Worsted Magix, a new addition to the Uptown Worsted collection that has anti-pilling properties you'll be excited about. Dreamy yarn, an acrylic yarn perfect for those soft socks, blankets and anything you want to feel cozy in. Another new yarn this year, Chic Sheep by Marly Bird is 100% merino wool by Red Heart. For natural fiber lovers check out the properties that make this an excellent choice for winter knitting. And for those who knit their summer clothes during the winter, included is our review of Papyrus yarn, a soft linen and cotton blend that offers cool and soft knits for the whole family. Don't miss our tutorials on steam blocking, how to write patterns for beginner knitters, the anatomy of a knitted beret and bunny ears decreases make an excellent motif for a baby blanket, and you know there's so much more.

Welcome to a new issue of KNITmuch magazine! We review four yarns, two yarns created with natural fibers and two with acrylics. Check them out! See how they are constructed, the fiber content, how they knit up, and suggestions for knitting projects.

I'm talking about Uptown Worsted Magix, a new addition to the Uptown Worsted collection that has anti-pilling properties you'll be excited about. Dreamy yarn, an acrylic yarn perfect for those soft socks, blankets and anything you want to feel cozy in.

Another new yarn this year, Chic Sheep by Marly Bird is 100% merino wool by Red Heart. For natural fiber lovers check out the properties that make this an excellent choice for winter knitting. And for those who knit their summer clothes during the winter, included is our review of Papyrus yarn, a soft linen and cotton blend that offers cool and soft knits for the whole family.

Don't miss our tutorials on steam blocking, how to write patterns for beginner knitters, the anatomy of a knitted beret and bunny ears decreases make an excellent motif for a baby blanket, and you know there's so much more.

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un-dec-w-yo (Bunny Ears Decrease<br />

with YO): Insert RH needle to<br />

knit next 2 sts together through the<br />

front legs, wrap yarn to knit, bring<br />

RH needle up between the two legs<br />

and slide all off LH needle, yarn fwd,<br />

knit next st, pass 3rd strand on RH<br />

needle over first 2 sts.<br />

k: knit<br />

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together<br />

through the front legs<br />

lki (lifted knit increase): lift the stitch<br />

2 rows below the first stitch on the<br />

RH needle onto the LH needle and<br />

knit this stitch.<br />

p: purl.<br />

ssk: slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit<br />

slipped stitches together through the<br />

back legs<br />

S1 (slip 1): with the working yarn in<br />

back, insert the RH needle into the<br />

next stitch as if to purl and transfer the<br />

stitch from the left needle to the right.<br />

S1 wyif: With the working yarn in front,<br />

insert the RH needle into the next<br />

stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch<br />

from the left needle to the right.<br />

s2tog-k1-p2sso: Slip 2 stitches<br />

together knitwise, knit 1, then pass<br />

slipped stitches over.<br />

yo: wrap the working yarn over the<br />

right needle, from front to back<br />

(counter-clockwise).<br />

(k, yo, k, yo, k) in next st: knit, leaving<br />

the stitch on the needle, then yarn<br />

over, knit, yarn over, and then knit (5<br />

stitches total) into the same stitch.<br />

1/1 LC (left crossed sts): Insert RH<br />

needle between next 2 sts on the LH<br />

needle from the back, and then into<br />

the front leg of the 2nd st, knit 2nd<br />

st, then knit first st on LH needle and<br />

slide both off. Or, slip 1 stitch to cable<br />

needle and hold in front; k1; k1 from<br />

cable needle.<br />

1/1 RC (right crossed sts): Insert<br />

RH needle from right to left under<br />

the front leg of the 2nd st on the LH<br />

needle an loosen leg loop, knit this<br />

loop, then knit the first st on the LH<br />

needle separately, slide both off. Or,<br />

slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold<br />

in back; k1; k1 from cable needle.<br />

needles and yarn<br />

1 ball Uptown DK Magix in<br />

Summer Flies<br />

US 5 [3.75mm] needles<br />

gauge<br />

22 sts and 32 rows = 4″ [10cm] in<br />

stockinette stitch<br />

When you work this stitch<br />

pattern, the number of stitches<br />

for each repeat will increase and<br />

then gradually decrease. This is<br />

in part what forms the ripples.<br />

Stitch counts are provided on all<br />

rows where there’s a change in<br />

the total number.<br />

Cast on 93 sts.<br />

Work in Garter Stitch (knit every<br />

row) for 4 rows.<br />

Work in Stockinette Stitch (knit 1<br />

row, purl 1 row) for 2 rows.<br />

Then you can begin the W-ripple<br />

motifs in the following stitch<br />

pattern rows:<br />

W-ripple Stitch<br />

Row 1: S1 wyif, k2, p1, k1, 1/1 LC,<br />

p1, [k5, bun-dec-w-yo, k2,<br />

s2tog-k1-p2sso, k3, k2tog,<br />

yo, ssk, k3, s2tog-k1-<br />

p2sso, k2, bun-dec-w-yo,<br />

k5, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p1] twice,<br />

k3 (83 sts).<br />

Row 2: S1 wyif, k2, {[k1, p3] twice,<br />

p2, [p1, yo] twice, p17, [yo,<br />

p1] twice, p5} twice, k1, p3,<br />

k4 (91 sts).<br />

Row 3: S1 wyif, k2, p1, 1/1 RC, k1,<br />

p1, {k7, [yo, k1] twice, k2,<br />

s2tog-k1-p2sso, k3, (k, yo,<br />

k, yo, k) in 1, k3, s2tog-k1-<br />

p2sso, k2, [k1, yo] twice, k7,<br />

p1, 1/1 RC, k1, p1} twice, k3<br />

(99 sts).<br />

Row 4: S1 wyif, k3, p3, k1, {p7,<br />

[p1, yo] twice, p21, [yo, p1]<br />

twice, p3, [p3, k1] twice}<br />

twice, k3 (105 sts).<br />

Row 5: S1 wyif, k2, p1, k1, 1/1 LC,<br />

p1, {k9, s1, k4, s2tog-k1-<br />

p2sso, k5, lki, k4, s2tog-k1-<br />

p2sso, k4, s1, k9, p1, k1, 1/1<br />

LC, p1} twice, k3 (101 sts).<br />

Row 6: S1 wyif, k3, p3, k1, {p37, [p3,<br />

k1] twice} twice, k3 (101 sts).<br />

Row 7: S1 wyif, k2, p1, 1/1 RC, k1,<br />

p1, {k5, [k8, s2tog-k1-p2sso]<br />

twice, k13, p1, 1/1 RC, k1, p1}<br />

twice, k3 (93 sts).<br />

Row 8: S1 wyif, k3, p3, k1, {p33, [p3,<br />

k1] twice} twice, k3 (93 sts).<br />

Row 9: S1 wyif, k2, p1, k1, 1/1 LC,<br />

p1, {k36, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p1}<br />

twice, k3 (93 sts).<br />

Row 10: S1 wyif, k3, p3, k1, {p33,<br />

[p3, k1] twice} twice, k3<br />

(93 sts).<br />

Row 11: S1 wyif, k2, p1, 1/1 RC,<br />

k1, p1, {k5, bun-dec-w-yo,<br />

k2, s2tog-k1-p2sso, k3,<br />

k2tog, yo, ssk, k3, s2togk1-p2sso,<br />

k2, bun-dec-wyo,<br />

k5, p1, 1/1 RC, k1, p1}<br />

twice, k3 (83 sts).<br />

Row 12: S1 wyif, k2, {[k1, p3]<br />

twice, p2, [p1, yo] twice,<br />

p17, [yo, p1] twice, p5]<br />

twice, k1, p3, k4 (91 sts).<br />

Row 13: S1 wyif, k2, p1, k1, 1/1<br />

LC, p1, {k7, [yo, k1] twice,<br />

k2, s2tog-k1-p2sso, k3, (k,<br />

yo, k, yo, k) in next st, k3,<br />

s2tog-k1-p2sso, k2, [k1, yo]<br />

twice, k7, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p1}<br />

twice, k3 (99 sts).<br />

Row 14: S1 wyif, k3, p3, k1, {p7,<br />

[p1, yo] twice, p21, [yo, p1]<br />

twice, p3, [p3, k1] twice}<br />

twice, k3 (105 sts).<br />

Row 15: S1 wyif, k2, p1, 1/1 RC,<br />

k1, p1, {k9, s1, k4, s2tog-k1-<br />

p2sso, k5, lki, k4, s2tog-k1-<br />

p2sso, k4, s1, k9, p1, 1/1 RC,<br />

k1, p1} twice, k3 (101 sts).<br />

Row 16: S1 wyif, k3, p3, k1, {p37,<br />

[p3, k1] twice} twice, k3 (101<br />

sts).<br />

<strong>KNITmuch</strong> | issue 7<br />

13

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