01.10.2018 Views

KNITmuch | Issue 07

Welcome to a new issue of KNITmuch magazine! We review four yarns, two yarns created with natural fibers and two with acrylics. Check them out! See how they are constructed, the fiber content, how they knit up, and suggestions for knitting projects. I'm talking about Uptown Worsted Magix, a new addition to the Uptown Worsted collection that has anti-pilling properties you'll be excited about. Dreamy yarn, an acrylic yarn perfect for those soft socks, blankets and anything you want to feel cozy in. Another new yarn this year, Chic Sheep by Marly Bird is 100% merino wool by Red Heart. For natural fiber lovers check out the properties that make this an excellent choice for winter knitting. And for those who knit their summer clothes during the winter, included is our review of Papyrus yarn, a soft linen and cotton blend that offers cool and soft knits for the whole family. Don't miss our tutorials on steam blocking, how to write patterns for beginner knitters, the anatomy of a knitted beret and bunny ears decreases make an excellent motif for a baby blanket, and you know there's so much more.

Welcome to a new issue of KNITmuch magazine! We review four yarns, two yarns created with natural fibers and two with acrylics. Check them out! See how they are constructed, the fiber content, how they knit up, and suggestions for knitting projects.

I'm talking about Uptown Worsted Magix, a new addition to the Uptown Worsted collection that has anti-pilling properties you'll be excited about. Dreamy yarn, an acrylic yarn perfect for those soft socks, blankets and anything you want to feel cozy in.

Another new yarn this year, Chic Sheep by Marly Bird is 100% merino wool by Red Heart. For natural fiber lovers check out the properties that make this an excellent choice for winter knitting. And for those who knit their summer clothes during the winter, included is our review of Papyrus yarn, a soft linen and cotton blend that offers cool and soft knits for the whole family.

Don't miss our tutorials on steam blocking, how to write patterns for beginner knitters, the anatomy of a knitted beret and bunny ears decreases make an excellent motif for a baby blanket, and you know there's so much more.

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Steam blocking a shawl knitted with<br />

Chic Sheep goes from good to great!<br />

When I blocked the Simple Lace Triangle Shawl,<br />

it went from this curly crumpled triangularish<br />

shaped garment to a beautiful shawl. One<br />

comment I receive from a lot of people is how<br />

perfect my stitches look on knitted garments.<br />

Blocking goes a long way to making those stitches<br />

look absolutely perfect. They lay flat and fall in line<br />

with their brothers and sisters. It even makes errors<br />

less noticeable.<br />

This is what the eyelets looked like before blocking. You might want to scroll<br />

back to this photo after you see the end result.<br />

Here’s my ‘before’ picture. This shawl was fresh off the needles, cast off and<br />

onto the blocking board.<br />

First thing is first when blocking, you need to decide<br />

how you’re going to do it. There’s wet blocking and<br />

steam blocking. Wet blocking takes a bit longer and<br />

I’d definitely suggest starting out with wet blocking if<br />

you’re not entirely familiar with the process. It’s a bit<br />

more forgiving. It’s easy enough to do, you saturate<br />

your entire garment with water, then gently press<br />

the excess water from it. You then lay it out on a<br />

surface where you can pin it out and leave it to dry.<br />

I know I’m going through this at rapid-fire speed<br />

but it's very easy to find highly detailed instructions<br />

on how to block your knitted garments. I just want<br />

to give you a brief overview and a couple tips and<br />

tricks that will make it easier.<br />

Steam blocking is my favorite way to block and,<br />

I’ve discovered lately, much less common. I steam<br />

blocked the Simple Lace Triangle Shawl made with<br />

Chic Sheep. When I block my garments. I usually<br />

don’t have 12-24 hours to leave something to dry. I<br />

have cats who get into everything and while I might<br />

be able to close off one whole room in my house to<br />

let something settle into its final shape, it’s just not<br />

practical for me to do all the time.<br />

This is the corner of the shawl after unpinning. No curling, no rolling, a perfect<br />

pointed corner. Look at those eyelets! They’re much bigger and more noticeable.<br />

18 <strong>KNITmuch</strong> | issue 7

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