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ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 9<br />
“We feel genuinely excited when<br />
guests have positive experiences<br />
flying with Kenya Airways”<br />
Getty images<br />
Msafiri October <strong>2018</strong> edition 150<br />
kenya-airways.com<br />
➔<br />
October <strong>2018</strong><br />
City of<br />
Angels<br />
A journey through<br />
Bangkok<br />
In The Saddle<br />
Cyclists heading for glory<br />
Streets of<br />
New York<br />
Modern photos<br />
of the Big Apple<br />
to Take<br />
Home!<br />
Kenya Airways World<br />
Travel Awards<br />
• Voted Africa’s Leading Airline:<br />
2016, 2017<br />
• Voted Africa’s Leading Airline, Business<br />
Class: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017<br />
Dear guests,<br />
We have just launched a new catering<br />
service, another major step in our<br />
strategy to provide an unforgettable<br />
experience throughout your journey<br />
with us, while making our service more<br />
authentic, relevant and true to our<br />
brand identity. Flights of seven hours or<br />
more now have a menu created by one<br />
of Africa’s best chefs. Kiran Jethwa, the<br />
renowned Kenya-born chef, has set the<br />
first new menu: an exquisite fusion of<br />
African ingredients. He has also trained<br />
our crew at our state-of-the-art Pride<br />
Center. In addition, special welcome<br />
drinks – created by Jethwa – containing<br />
herbs, indigenous fruits and tea are<br />
distributed in business class. On shorter<br />
flights, guests now receive new meal<br />
boxes that are easy to take with them.<br />
Whichever new catering service you are<br />
experiencing today, we hope that it adds<br />
to your enjoyment. We feel genuinely<br />
excited when guests have positive experiences<br />
flying with Kenya Airways.<br />
This month, we take you on a journey<br />
through Ethiopia’s picturesque Amhara<br />
region, which is famous for the<br />
excavated churches of Lalibela, and<br />
seems to have inspired Middle-earth in<br />
Tolkien’s Lord of The Rings trilogy. We<br />
take you from the Italian-influenced<br />
capital – Addis Ababa – to Lalibela,<br />
Gondar and on to Bahir Dar, Amhara’s<br />
capital.<br />
Our latest people story focuses on a<br />
group of ambitious African cyclists who<br />
are attempting to emulate the successes<br />
of Kenya-born, four-time Tour de<br />
France champion Chris Froome. Being<br />
away from the key professional-cycling<br />
centres in Europe, these cyclists need to<br />
fight harder for the biggest prize in cycling,<br />
and they’re doing so in ways that<br />
are truly inspiring.<br />
Business is booming in Kenya, especially<br />
in Nairobi, which has become the<br />
Africa hub for many large international<br />
corporations. Our forthcoming direct<br />
flights between Nairobi and New York<br />
– beginning on 28 October – promise to<br />
increase this influx of foreign companies<br />
operating within our borders. Because<br />
of this, our new business story looks at<br />
the Meetings, Incentives, Conferences<br />
and Exhibitions (MICE) industry, which<br />
is proliferating in Kenya, adding another<br />
dimension to the nation’s growing<br />
business sector.<br />
Thank you most sincerely for flying<br />
with Kenya Airways.<br />
I wish you all an enjoyable flight.<br />
Sebastian Mikosz<br />
Group Managing Director and CEO<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
Image: Jeroen van Loon
CONTENTS / 11<br />
Travel & Nature<br />
28 Fantasy Land<br />
Ethiopia’s Amhara region<br />
50 Return Ticket<br />
The Great Migration<br />
52 Vanilla Islands<br />
At a glance<br />
58 Guess And Win<br />
Travel quiz<br />
60 City of Angels<br />
A journey through Bangkok<br />
46<br />
60<br />
Arts & Culture<br />
14 High Five<br />
The Empire State Building<br />
17 Habari<br />
Kenya & the world<br />
38 In The Saddle<br />
Cyclists heading for glory<br />
68 Streets of New York<br />
Modern photos of the Big Apple<br />
Publisher Kenya Airways | Head of Marketing and Customer Experience Jacquie Muhati Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge<br />
Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Irene<br />
Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans<br />
Koedijker Contributors Pie Aerts, Cedric Arnold, Joost Bastmeijer, Jackson Biko, Bartjan Bouman, Andrea Dijkstra, Mark Eveleigh, Philip Lee Harvey, Annemarie Hoeve, Saskia Houttuin,<br />
Desiree Hoving, Patrick Janelle, Ken Kagicha, Kenyan Riders Downunder, Annette Lavrijsen, Jeroen van Loon, Ivan Meneses, Catherine Ngarachu, Michael Poliza, Alessio Radaelli,<br />
Cynthia Schippers, Peter Steward, Peter Usher, Eline Visscher, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Graham Willgoss, Michael G. Young Lithography Ready4Print<br />
Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen
12 / CONTENTS<br />
Fly Guide<br />
28<br />
Business<br />
75 Highlights<br />
Inflight entertainment guide<br />
85 Safari Njema<br />
News & service<br />
91 Flying Blue News<br />
93 SkyTeam News<br />
94 Route Maps<br />
99 Magical Kenya<br />
101 Cargo<br />
102 Get Comfortable<br />
38<br />
44 Aircraft Facts<br />
The landing gear<br />
46 Liftoff<br />
Africa’s space programme<br />
54 Of Mice And Men<br />
Kenya’s conference industry<br />
66 Book Review<br />
Build an A-Team<br />
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.<br />
com Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734<br />
271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Media Nederland CV, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website hearst.nl/hearst-create<br />
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />
responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and<br />
at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.<br />
CRE A T E
14 / NEW YORK / Empire State Building<br />
HIGHLIGHT / 15<br />
High Five<br />
Built on Fifth Avenue in 1931,<br />
the Empire State Building<br />
was named after the moniker<br />
for New York State.<br />
This Art Deco skyscraper was erected<br />
on the site of the first Waldorf-Astoria<br />
hotel, which was knocked down to make<br />
room for it. The Empire State Building is<br />
so big that it has its own postcode. At<br />
381-m tall, it was the tallest building in<br />
the world for almost 40 years until the<br />
North Tower of the World Trade Center<br />
went up in 1970.<br />
The idea for the Empire State Building<br />
was conceived during the Roaring<br />
Twenties, when the US economy was at<br />
its peak and ambition in the construction<br />
industry was just as high as the plans<br />
tabled for what the media called, the<br />
“race into the sky”; a competition<br />
between 40 Wall Street, the Chrysler<br />
Building and the Empire State Building,<br />
which was built last but won the “race”.<br />
Photographer Lewis Hine famously<br />
captured the death-defying construction<br />
by steelworkers as they hung from the<br />
side of the building at great heights<br />
without safety equipment. While taking<br />
pictures of the workers, Hine also got<br />
himself into precarious positions; a feat<br />
that, arguably, remained unsurpassed<br />
until the recent invention of the “selfie”.<br />
Kenya Airways will begin flying to JFK Airport<br />
in New York from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta<br />
International Airport on 28 October.<br />
text: Ben Clark image: Getty Images
150<br />
The shortest border<br />
in the world is<br />
between Botswana<br />
and Zambia. It’s only<br />
150-m long.<br />
Habari<br />
HABARI / 17<br />
Two of Africa’s smallest countries,<br />
eSwatini and Lesotho, are located<br />
within Southern Africa.<br />
Illustrations<br />
Colourful Doodles<br />
Monica Obaga is a Kenyan illustrator<br />
and graphic designer who’s currently<br />
based in Los Angeles, US. After doodling<br />
a lot as a child, Monica picked up<br />
drawing again four years ago. Taking<br />
inspiration from her childhood in Kenya,<br />
she now publishes her colourful work<br />
on Instagram, where she’s followed by<br />
over 1,200 people. @monicaobaga
The hippopotamus is Africa’s<br />
deadliest animal; it kills more<br />
people on the continent than<br />
crocodiles and lions combined.<br />
Golden oldie<br />
Fairmont The<br />
Norfolk<br />
Nairobi<br />
HABARI /19<br />
There are more French speakers<br />
in Africa than in France.<br />
Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko<br />
Meeting place<br />
Safari Park Hotel<br />
The Safari Park Hotel, an oasis<br />
in the heart of Nairobi, has<br />
beautiful gardens and water<br />
features. It’s one of the East<br />
Africa’s foremost leisure and<br />
conference venues, with 167<br />
deluxe rooms and 36 suites<br />
– with private balconies – and a<br />
range of indoor, outdoor and<br />
banqueting facilities for up to<br />
5,000 people. Its five international<br />
restaurants, offer some of<br />
the finest dining in Nairobi.<br />
Leisure facilities include the<br />
Paradise Casino, the Cats Club<br />
discotheque, the Piano Bar and<br />
the ultra-modern Safari Fitness<br />
Centre.<br />
~ safaripark-hotel.com<br />
Nairobi grew around this iconic<br />
hotel, which dates back to 1904.<br />
Deals have been struck on its<br />
veranda ever since. It’s been a<br />
home away from home for<br />
distinguished travellers during<br />
the colonial period, and savvy<br />
businessmen of modern times.<br />
It’s got that old-world charm<br />
and elegant contemporary<br />
design. It has 27 luxurious<br />
suites and 143 rooms, which<br />
are set around tranquil tropical<br />
gardens, a heated outdoor<br />
swimming pool and a health<br />
club and spa.<br />
~ fairmont.com<br />
“My heritage<br />
naturally trickles<br />
into my work<br />
and every piece<br />
I create”<br />
– Zambian fashion designer Kapasa Musonda –<br />
Indian food<br />
Mayura Restaurant<br />
Some people will put up with grubby restaurants because they<br />
serve great food. Thankfully, there are some restaurants that<br />
score highly for food and ambience. Mayura, a fantastic Indian<br />
restaurant, is one of them. It’s got a large, tasteful Indian-heavy<br />
decor (thankfully not gaudy) with a large, tastefully done lounge<br />
outside, and a slightly more formal seating inside that’s great for<br />
business meetings. The food is so delicious, you’re tempted to call<br />
it, “finger-licking good”.<br />
~ themayura.com<br />
A bit of everything<br />
Artcaffé,<br />
Nairobi<br />
Artcaffé is a café, yes. People<br />
gather and sit for coffee in a<br />
modern set-up. It’s the first<br />
truly European model of<br />
café/bakery (if you’re to believe<br />
them). They have freshly<br />
baked artisan bread and<br />
pastries, and they brew real<br />
Kenyan coffee. But they’re<br />
also a lifestyle brand, and a<br />
buzzing social hub in the<br />
metropolis. Because Artcaffé<br />
is open until midnight, it’s<br />
also a meeting place for their<br />
famous signature cocktails.<br />
~ artcaffe.co.ke<br />
Clubbing<br />
40Forty Lounge<br />
It’s a club in Westlands, which<br />
is a “happening” area as the<br />
youth would say. It’s on Westlands<br />
Road and it has limited<br />
parking spaces, but that isn’t<br />
your concern because you will<br />
be rocking up in an Uber.<br />
You’ll take the elevator to the<br />
eighth floor, where you’ll enter<br />
the 40Forty Lounge, which is<br />
open until dawn. The view is<br />
amazing. The excellent Boda<br />
Boda Band plays on Tuesdays.<br />
~ @Official40forty
The largest church in the world,<br />
Basilica of Our Lady of Peace of<br />
Yamoussoukro, is in Côte d’Ivoire<br />
and resembles Rome’s Saint<br />
Peter’s Basilica.<br />
Marathon<br />
Running The Five Boroughs<br />
Will you be the next Geoffrey Kamworor, the Kenyan<br />
athlete who won last year’s New York City Marathon?<br />
Or are you cheering for friends and family?<br />
With Kenya Airways, from 28 October, you will be<br />
able to fly direct to the Big Apple. This year’s New<br />
York City Marathon will be held on 4 November,<br />
and runs through all five of the city’s boroughs:<br />
Staten Island, Brooklyn, Queens, The Bronx, and<br />
Manhattan, where it enters the iconic Central Park.<br />
What’s On<br />
HABARI / 21<br />
Africa covers approximately 20 percent<br />
of our planet’s land mass and 6 percent<br />
of its total surface.<br />
~ tcsnycmarathon.org<br />
Habari text: Joost Bastmeijer and Saskia Houttuin<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Motor sport<br />
Great Rift Rally<br />
A 45-km drive south of Nairobi brings you to<br />
Champagne Ridge, a crest that offers impressive<br />
views over the adjacent Great Rift Valley. The<br />
mountainous Kajiado area also houses the Champagne<br />
Rally Park and their Champagne 4x4 Challenge,<br />
a spectacular event for both spectators and<br />
competitors. The final <strong>2018</strong> edition will be held<br />
from 24-25 November. On-site camping is possible.<br />
~ champagnepark.co.ke<br />
Q&A<br />
Kapasa Musonda<br />
Mangishi Doll is an Afro-eclectic clothing line from Zambia<br />
that is inspired by unique style and bold prints. Msafiri chats<br />
with founder Kapasa Musonda.<br />
Where do you get your materials?<br />
I spend hours at a time in the marketplaces sourcing different Chitenge (aka<br />
Ankara) fabrics. I grew up seeing these prints on the streets of Zambia. My<br />
heritage naturally trickles into my work and every piece I create.<br />
What does Mangishi mean in Nyanja?<br />
Mangishi is a form of craft using twisted wire. The most popular items<br />
created using this technique are toy cars. I founded an accessory line<br />
called Mangishi Love, which inspired the current brand, Mangishi Doll.<br />
What does the future have in store?<br />
We’re here to stay. We’re constantly creating different and unique pieces<br />
that will resonate with different people and different cultures all over the<br />
world. We will launch our new line, The MDIndividualist, this Autumn.<br />
~ mangishidoll.co
The Ngwenya Mine is<br />
considered to be the world’s<br />
oldest. Thousands of years<br />
ago, red ochre was extracted.<br />
Now, iron ore is mined here.<br />
Arts & Culture<br />
HABARI / 23<br />
The shortest distance between Africa<br />
and Europe is only 14.3 km.<br />
Bucket list<br />
African Juices You Must Try<br />
Health freaks travelling to Africa take<br />
note: these are our favourite healthy fruit<br />
juices from the continent.<br />
Tamarind Juice<br />
This invigorating sweet and sour juice is popular from<br />
Senegal to Sudan. Made from the pod-like fruits of the<br />
tamarind tree, the juice is known to be quite the thirst<br />
quencher. Tamarind is derived from the Arabic words:<br />
Tomur Hindi, meaning “Indian dates”.<br />
Design<br />
Sweden Meets Africa<br />
Ikea, the Swedish furniture store, will sell several items designed by<br />
10 renowned creatives from all over Africa. Representing countries like<br />
Kenya, Senegal and South Africa, designers draw on their culture and the<br />
modern urban rituals that are common across all cultures. With these<br />
rituals as a starting point, the ÖVERALLT collection stands for, “fun,<br />
inclusive and expressive”. The products will be available for a limited<br />
time starting in May 2019.<br />
~ ikea.today/checking-with-overallt<br />
Spris<br />
In Ethiopia, the avocado is perceived to be a sweet fruit; so<br />
Ethiopians make spris, a multi-fruit, layered juice that is not<br />
watered down. These thick smoothies are eaten with a spoon<br />
and include a papaya or mango layer. They’re served with<br />
fresh lime squeezed over them.<br />
Bouye<br />
The gigantic baobab trees can survive for thousands of<br />
years in the hot and dry climate of the African savannah,<br />
and the “monkey bread fruit” of this “tree of life” is equally<br />
impressive. Nairobi’s Talisman Restaurant nominates it as<br />
“Africa’s superfood”.<br />
Fashion week<br />
Celebrating<br />
Swahili Fashion<br />
The annual Swahili Fashion Week<br />
is one of the largest events of its<br />
kind in East Africa. Held from 30<br />
November to 2 December <strong>2018</strong> in<br />
Dar es Salaam, the event will<br />
showcase the work of fashion and<br />
accessory designers from Swahilispeaking<br />
countries in East Africa.<br />
“Made in Africa” is this year’s<br />
concept.<br />
~ swahilifashionweek.com<br />
Film festival<br />
Revolutionary<br />
African Movies<br />
Ever since the first edition of the<br />
Africa International Film Festival<br />
was hosted in the city of Port<br />
Harcourt, Nigeria, the festival has<br />
returned each year to raise awareness<br />
about African cinema. Filmmakers<br />
and movie stars from all<br />
over the world attend the weeklong<br />
festival. This year’s edition<br />
takes place from 11-17 November.<br />
~ afriff.com<br />
Zoom Koom<br />
This traditional drink from Burkina Faso means “flour water”<br />
and is also known as the country’s eau de bienvenue<br />
(welcome water). It’s a mixture of millet flour, water and sugar<br />
or shea butter. Pineapple and ginger are added for taste.<br />
Bissap Juice<br />
Bissap, sobolo and zobo are just a few of the many names<br />
for refreshing hibiscus juice, which is made from the plant’s<br />
flower: the “roselle”. The sepals are infused in hot water,<br />
leaving a red shade. Sugar or honey is added before the<br />
juice is chilled.<br />
Shutterstock
24 / HABARI<br />
ESwatini’s Mlilwane Wildlife<br />
Sanctuary is the country’s<br />
oldest protected area. It<br />
covers 45.6 sq km.<br />
Column<br />
Swaziland changed its name to<br />
eSwatini on 19 April <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
Jackson Biko<br />
Too Much TV<br />
I’ve never been to New York. Everything I know about<br />
New York is from television, movies, books and Jay-Z. So<br />
when I think of New York, I think of people who bump into<br />
you on the street, and don’t say sorry. I think of the sitcom<br />
Friends. I think of subways where people don’t speak to each<br />
other, and some African guys wearing dashikis beat drums<br />
to folk who are wearing headphones. I think of small brick<br />
apartments that cost for a month what I pay in a year for my<br />
house. I think of their former mayor Rudy Giuliani with his<br />
wry foxy look and a shiny head that catches all the light in<br />
the room. When I think of New Yorkers, I imagine they all eat<br />
a lot of salad and steak done so rare it comes to the table<br />
still breathing.<br />
Writing this, in a quiet part of Nairobi on a Sunday<br />
afternoon, I can almost hear the constant sound of police<br />
sirens when I think of New York, and some Latino yellow-<br />
“Everybody drinks<br />
cocktails and drives<br />
on the wrong side of<br />
the road”<br />
cab driver shouting, “What the [deleted by editor]! You can’t<br />
smoke in my [deleted by ed.] car, buddy!” So yes, New York<br />
is loud.<br />
I don’t think I could live in New York because I don’t<br />
know how New Yorkers master all those streets: “Meet me on<br />
29th”; “The shop you are looking for is on the corner of 12th<br />
and 7th”; and, “There’s a fantastic new Portuguese coffee<br />
shop that has opened along West 15th Street”. Then of course<br />
everybody says, “block”, when explaining distances. “Two<br />
blocks down”, for example. And everybody drinks cocktails<br />
and drives on the wrong side of the road. (Maybe they drive<br />
on the wrong side of the road because they drink cocktails,<br />
I don’t know.)<br />
From the media, I know that once you’ve been to New<br />
York, you will have seen the best of the US, which raises<br />
the question: Will I not want to see Chicago after? Or<br />
Alabama? I don’t want New York to ruin it for Wisconsin,<br />
or me, because that’s a state in which I’m likely to meet my<br />
ginger-bearded doppelganger. The Brooklyn Bridge? It would<br />
be nice to see it, but I’m not dying to.<br />
But here’s the one thing that would absolutely make me<br />
want to go to New York (and this is going to sound mad).<br />
For some reason, I’ve always thought that if I visited New<br />
York, I would see Eva Mendes. I don’t even know which<br />
state Eva’s from, but in my head I’d spot her in the Big<br />
Apple when I’m in one of those cheesy hop-on, hop-off buses.<br />
She’d be walking down Fifth Avenue carrying a red designer<br />
bag, wearing a summer dress, and sporting sunglasses that<br />
almost add anonymity to her beautiful face. I’d shout,<br />
“Eva! Eva! It’s me!” Then, like a New Yorker, I’d shout for<br />
the driver to, “Stop the [deleted by ed.] bus!” And then I’d<br />
hop off and run.<br />
But I hope that when I see her, she won’t be with<br />
that guy. What’s his name? The guy she has children with,<br />
Ryan Gosling. That will completely ruin my New York<br />
experience. Actually, I wouldn’t want to see Ryan Gosling<br />
anywhere because then I will think of Eva, and why she gave<br />
him children, because he’s so cliché with his symmetrical face<br />
and movie-star looks (no jealousy here).<br />
Eva, if you’re reading this from New York, I’m free<br />
to travel as soon as you send me a smoke signal from<br />
Central Park.<br />
Illustration: Hannah Wieslander
26 / HABARI<br />
Lemur monkeys are endemic<br />
FOURt<br />
POINTS<br />
to Madagascar.<br />
BY SHERATON<br />
Botswana’s currency is called<br />
“pula”, which is divided into 100<br />
“thebe”. These two words mean<br />
“rain” and “shield” respectively.<br />
Favourites<br />
Nairobi<br />
Hurlingham<br />
Treat yourself<br />
The Gold Rush<br />
1 3<br />
Beats Solo3 Wireless On-Ear ALPHA-H Liquid Gold<br />
Headphones – Gold<br />
The multi-award-winning “overnight facial” from<br />
With up to 40 hours of battery life, these are Alpha-H transforms skin after just one use.<br />
your perfect everyday headphones. Connect your This leave-on liquid peel contains naturally<br />
device via Class 1 Bluetooth to listen wirelessly. derived fruit acids to help revitalise tired, ageing<br />
Premium playback and fine-tuned acoustics skin, and lessen the appearance of fine lines,<br />
maximise clarity, breadth and balance.<br />
enlarged pores, blemishes and sun damage.<br />
~ apple.com US$299.95<br />
~ Karibu US$30<br />
Sound<br />
B&O PLAY Portable<br />
Bluetooth Speaker<br />
Dust- and splash-resistant, the<br />
B&O PLAY Beoplay A1 portable<br />
Bluetooth speaker immerses you in<br />
great wireless sound from your<br />
iPhone or iPad anywhere you go.<br />
It’s small enough to sit in the palm of<br />
your hand and it’s shaped to slip neatly<br />
into your bag or a pocket. There’s also a<br />
built-in microphone for phone calls. The<br />
360-degree Bang & Olufsen signature<br />
sound has a satisfyingly deep bass. Up<br />
to 24 hours playing time on a single<br />
charge (at moderate volume).<br />
~ apple.com US$249.95<br />
2<br />
Tanzanite Tusk<br />
This exquisite, nine-carat yellow-gold African<br />
tusk pendant and chain was expertly crafted<br />
using rare tanzanite stones and gold exclusively<br />
sourced from African soil. Pendant size: 2.6 cm.<br />
~ Karibu US$275<br />
1 2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
Asobu Flavour U See<br />
This 500-ml insulated bottle will stay cold for up<br />
to 12 hours. The clear centre section suspends<br />
the fruit, mint or other contents in your chilled<br />
water between two filters, preventing any bulk<br />
pulp from entering the drinking section.<br />
~ asobubottle.com US$19.99<br />
Inspired to buy?<br />
See our shopping<br />
magazine: Karibu.<br />
PERSONALISED YOUR WAY<br />
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28 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />
TRAVEL / 29<br />
FANTASY<br />
LAND<br />
Michael Poliza<br />
Philip Lee Harvey<br />
Ethiopia’s AMHARA region is most<br />
famous for the excavated churches of Lalibela,<br />
but there’s more to discover. Could this be<br />
Tolkien’s Middle-earth?<br />
text Joost Bastmeijer
30 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />
TRAVEL / 31<br />
Previous pages<br />
Left: Simien Mountains, a<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />
and national park; Right:<br />
the House of St. George in<br />
Lalibela<br />
AS WE TOUCH down at Bole International Airport, I<br />
notice two things: the tarmac smells of eucalyptus trees and<br />
the airport Wi-Fi isn’t working (neither is my mobile Internet<br />
service). Being a stereotypical millennial flying in from 4Gcovered<br />
Nairobi, it’s a tough realisation that will define the<br />
rest of our trip: from Addis Ababa to Lalibela and Gondar<br />
to Bahir Dar, it will be a digital detox.<br />
LA DOLCE VITA<br />
Before travelling to the Amhara region, I start my journey in<br />
Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa. After dropping off my luggage<br />
at the Ethiopian/Dutch-owned Zeist Lodge, an oasis-like city<br />
lodge – with a peaceful courtyard – it’s time for lunch. I head to<br />
Addis Ababa Restaurant, which is a perfect spot to try injera,<br />
the country’s national dish: a flatbread eaten with several kinds<br />
of stew. After dinner, smoke from burning frankincense and<br />
myrrh fills the circular building, indicating that the coffee’s<br />
ready. The origin of coffee cultivation and consumption lies in<br />
Ethiopia. Countless coffee bars still decorate the streets of<br />
Addis Ababa, including the city’s “first coffee company”: To.<br />
Mo.Ca., an abbreviation of the Italian words: Torrefazione<br />
Moderna Café.<br />
Ethiopia has never been colonised, despite two overthrow<br />
attempts by Italy, whose cultural influence – born from the two<br />
Italo-Ethiopian Wars (1895-1896 and 1935-1939) – is still very<br />
much present. The city offers some great pizzerias, such as Club<br />
Juventus, and even the supposedly largest market in Africa<br />
bears an Italian name: Merkato; the perfect place to shop for<br />
kitchenware, soccer shirts and spices. From Merkato, it’s a<br />
short taxi ride to Piazza (Italian for “square”), one of the<br />
most picturesque neighbourhoods in Addis Ababa. The area<br />
is studded with great cafés: Dej. Jote Street is particularly<br />
worthwhile. You can admire the city’s oldest hotel, Itegue<br />
Taitu, and have a beer at the vivid Florida bar. And don’t<br />
forget to check out the leather shops, evidence that Ethiopia<br />
is home to the continent’s largest population of cattle. More<br />
durable and high-end leather products can be bought at Zinaff,<br />
ZAAF and Bermero (shoes).<br />
Sporting a new Zinaff leather jacket, a pair of Bermero<br />
suede boots and carrying a shipload of Tomoca coffee in my<br />
suitcase, I travel north. From Addis, it’s a 680 km-long journey<br />
to the city of Lalibela, known for its impressive monolithic<br />
churches. The trip is best accomplished with the one-hour<br />
flight. Lalibela has its fair share of nice hotels and homestays,<br />
and my pick, Tukul Village, doesn’t disappoint. With rooms<br />
overlooking one of the city’s striking rock-hewn churches, it<br />
comes highly recommended. ><br />
“Even the supposedly largest market in Africa,<br />
bears an Italian name: Merkato”<br />
Where to stay<br />
Zeist Lodge<br />
With spacious rooms located around<br />
an old, walled family compound, this<br />
is a perfect suburb accommodation<br />
(close to the international airport).<br />
Addis Ababa. zeistlodge.com<br />
Tukul Village<br />
This “village” of “traditional” tukul-style<br />
buildings is located on one of Lalibela’s<br />
surrounding hills.<br />
Lalibela. tukulvillage.com<br />
Lodge du Chateau<br />
The rooms are situated around a small<br />
garden, which leads up to an elevated<br />
rooftop terrace, with hills on one side<br />
and the famous castles on the other.<br />
Gondar. lodgeduchateau.com<br />
Lake Tana Hotel<br />
Though this is one of Bahir Dar’s bigger<br />
hotels, it still boasts quirky old-school<br />
rooms, located right on the green<br />
lakeside, surrounded by rich birdlife.<br />
Bahir Dar.<br />
Above (anti-clockwise<br />
from top): View on<br />
Addis Ababa; Ethiopian<br />
woman, from the Simien<br />
Mountains, carrying<br />
some harvest home;<br />
Debre Berhan Selassie<br />
Church ceiling in Gondar<br />
Right page: Fasilidas’<br />
Pool: a sunken bathing<br />
place surrounding<br />
a small fortress in<br />
Gondar (top); Mother<br />
and daughter carrying<br />
firewood in Lalibela<br />
(bottom left); Baby<br />
geladas are dependent<br />
on their mothers for two<br />
years (bottom right)<br />
Michael Poliza, Philip Lee Harvey, Joost Bastmeijer, Getty Images
32 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />
TRAVEL / 33<br />
A priest walking<br />
up a stone ramp<br />
in Lalibela<br />
“The stonewalled Fasil<br />
Ghebbi complex is a<br />
perfect location for a<br />
morning walk”<br />
Philip Lee Harvey<br />
Philip Lee Harvey<br />
The Church of<br />
St George in<br />
Lalibela
34 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />
TRAVEL / 35<br />
Left page: Simien<br />
Mountains: this region is<br />
best known as the habitat<br />
of the gelada baboons and<br />
Ethiopian wolves (top); A<br />
street in Lalibela (bottom<br />
left); A priest greets<br />
worshippers at the House<br />
of St. George in Lalibela<br />
(bottom right)<br />
Left: Tapestries and<br />
pots for sale.<br />
Right: Priests walking<br />
down towards the<br />
House of St. George<br />
in Lalibela<br />
Philip Lee Harvey, Michael Poliza<br />
CHURCH OF ROCK<br />
At 5 a.m., my guide, Belaynew, is already waiting for me.<br />
With my previously bought combi-ticket (US$50 and valid for<br />
five days), we follow the raspy chants of Lalibelan monks on<br />
our way uphill. A snaking, hewn-out path eventually leads us<br />
to the source of the enchanting singing in the House of St.<br />
Mercoreos, the first of 11 rock-cut churches we visit that day.<br />
Ten Ethiopian orthodox priests and monks – dressed in robes<br />
and carrying prayer staffs and long wax candles – are chanting<br />
in a small room, lit by one fluorescent light. Young apprentices<br />
listen quietly to the monks’ song. We know that the churches<br />
were carved from the relatively soft and volcanic, red tuff<br />
mountain, but when it comes to why the monolithic churches<br />
have been built, and who Lalibela actually was, a lot is still<br />
uncertain. One theory is that, as a youth, King Gebre Meskel<br />
Lalibela spent some time in Jerusalem, and the conquering of<br />
that city by Muslims in 1187 inspired him to build New Jerusalem<br />
in Roha (as the town was then called). Belaynew explains<br />
that some followers believe Lalibela himself carved the whole<br />
complex overnight, assisted by angels. Though the exact dates<br />
of the excavations are uncertain, it’s more likely that the first<br />
church was cut out in the 7th century, and the last one was<br />
formed in the 13th century.<br />
Besides priests and churchgoers, there are a lot of children<br />
frolicking around. “As a kid, I played in these churches and the<br />
tunnels that connect them,” says Belaynew. He takes me to one<br />
of the underground tunnels that is still open. “This one is so<br />
dark that we call it ‘Hell’,” he adds. If it wasn’t for Belaynew, I<br />
would have used my flashlight, but on his advice I leave my<br />
smartphone in my pocket. It’s a weird feeling, seeing absolutely<br />
nothing, and moving through a narrow tunnel on intuition and<br />
sense alone.<br />
After making it through “Hell” and visiting the other<br />
churches (including the most famous one, House of St.<br />
George), Belaynew and I part ways. Later that morning, the<br />
monks’ chanting stops and is replaced by the chatter of visiting<br />
tourists. On account of its ancient churches – all still clearly in<br />
use as active shrines – Lalibela is an exceptional place to spend<br />
time in.<br />
FELLOWSHIP OF THE RING<br />
The next morning I find myself in the back of an Ethiopian<br />
matatu minibus, sitting on a jerrycan while being wedged<br />
between two seats. It’s an uncomfortable seven-hour drive to<br />
Gondar, but the spellbinding scenery is a welcome compensation.<br />
The landscape reminds me of the book, The Lord of the<br />
Rings; even the region’s names are similar to the ones used by<br />
Tolkien. There’s Gondar (Gondor), Roha (Rohan), Bahir Dar<br />
(Barad-dûr) and even a city called Shire, north of the Simien<br />
Mountains. Could it be that the Amhara region inspired Tolkien<br />
(a native South African)? ><br />
“A snaking, hewn-out path eventually leads us to<br />
the source of the enchanting singing”<br />
Where to eat<br />
Club Juventus<br />
Slightly hidden behind Addis Ababa’s Meskel Square lies<br />
this sports complex for the city’s uptown kids. The old Italian<br />
canteen offers some great pizzas. Addis Ababa.<br />
Café Choché & To.Mo.Ca.<br />
Nestled in Legahar, Addis’ former Ethio-Djibouti Railway<br />
station, this wonderful café is our top pick to buy coffee. You<br />
can also get your beans at To.Mo.Ca Coffee, supposedly the<br />
oldest coffee company of the capital. Addis Ababa.<br />
facebook.com/CafeChoche; tomocacoffee.com<br />
Addis Ababa Restaurant<br />
If you eat injera once during your stay, have it here.<br />
Despite the shrieking TV noise, the atmosphere in this<br />
tukul-style building is unparalleled. Located in the Piazza<br />
neighbourhood. Addis Ababa.<br />
Ben Abeba Restaurant<br />
Just outside Lalibela, this quirky architectural wonder<br />
boasts not only a wonderful panoramic view, but also a nice<br />
Shepherd’s Pie – the owner is Scottish. Lalibela.<br />
benabeba.com/lalibela/Home.html<br />
Master Chef<br />
This small restaurant is perfect for a fishy lunch – Lake<br />
Tana’s tilapia is served in a variety of fried, cooked and baked<br />
versions. Gondar.<br />
Dashen Brewery<br />
A brewery located next to a university can’t go without a beer<br />
garden. Here, you drink the unfiltered beer straight from the<br />
barrel, called Dashen Cellar. Bar snacks are also available.<br />
Gondar.<br />
Hani Juice<br />
Arguably one of the best juice bars in Amhara, Hani Juice’s<br />
drinks are served so thick, you have to eat them with a spoon.<br />
Bahir Dar.
36 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />
TRAVEL / 37<br />
Left (clockwise<br />
from top left):<br />
Priest reading the Bible;<br />
Ceiling at the House of<br />
St. George; Blue Nile<br />
Falls: at 37-45 m in<br />
height, the falls consist<br />
of four streams that<br />
originally varied from a<br />
trickle in the dry season,<br />
to over 1/4-m–400-m<br />
wide in the rainy season<br />
Right (anti-clockwise<br />
from top): Boat carrying<br />
passengers on Lake<br />
Tana; Pelicans; Man in<br />
front of Blue Nile Falls<br />
“The Blue Nile Falls, the waterfall from where the<br />
Nile River begins its 4,500-km journey to the<br />
Mediterranean Sea, shouldn’t be missed”<br />
Getting Around<br />
When attempting to get around<br />
in Addis Ababa, it’s good to know<br />
that there is no such thing as Uber<br />
or Taxify, although there are some<br />
similar services called RIDE, ETTA<br />
and ZayRide. Unless you have an<br />
Internet connection, these services<br />
are redundant. However, there are<br />
other options, such as blue-white<br />
taxis (be sure to arrange a price<br />
before you get in), yellow taxis (more<br />
expensive, but more traveller-friendly<br />
because of their running meter) and<br />
Sub-Saharan Africa’s first light-rail<br />
metro line outside of South Africa.<br />
Gondar is most famous for its well-preserved castles and palaces<br />
in the stonewalled Fasil Ghebbi complex is a perfect location<br />
for a morning walk. But the Debre Birhan Selassie Church is the<br />
absolute highlight of my Gondar visit. After stopping for lunch<br />
at Master Chef (they serve great fish, freshly caught from the<br />
nearby Lake Tana), it’s a 20-minute walk out of town. In a<br />
peaceful courtyard, where a monk hangs the clerical chasubles<br />
to dry, I find one of the most beautifully decorated churches<br />
of Ethiopia. Every corner of this 17 th -century church is graced<br />
with superb art depicting bible stories. And don’t forget to look<br />
up: the painted ceiling features the faces of 80 beautiful angels.<br />
With the Fasil Ghebbi complex around the corner, my hotel<br />
is perfectly situated. Although the walls of Lodge du Chateau’s<br />
rooms are wafer-thin, Simon, the owner, makes up for that by<br />
going the extra mile. From here, you can hop into a tuk-tuk and<br />
head to the south of town, where a visit to Fasilidas’ Pool – a<br />
sunken bathing place surrounding a small fortress – is still used<br />
for the annual Timkat celebration in January. A visit to this<br />
royal pool is a great excuse to check out the city’s Dashen<br />
Brewery, which has a charming beer garden that is often<br />
packed with students from the adjacent university.<br />
More comfortable than the ride from Lalibela, a five-hour<br />
drive takes us to Bahir Dar, Amhara’s capital, which is situated<br />
south of Lake Tana. This green, somewhat more tropical destination<br />
is ideal for day trips. The lake’s monastery islands and<br />
the Blue Nile Falls, the waterfall from where the Nile River<br />
begins its 4,500-km journey to the Mediterranean Sea,<br />
shouldn’t be missed.<br />
After the hustle and bustle of Addis Ababa and the cultural<br />
stopovers at Lalibela and Gondar, it’s nice to be in a town<br />
where there isn’t that much to do. After a small lunch in an<br />
unassuming bistro opposite the market, I go for a coffee at<br />
Wude, and top it off with a fresh fruit juice at Hani Juice.<br />
From there, it’s easy to access the pleasant two-km lakeshore<br />
footpath that is dotted with bars alongside the city’s small<br />
harbour.<br />
As I reach the gates of the lush Lake Tana hotel, my phone<br />
starts buzzing. Apart from some sporadic signals during my<br />
trip, it’s the first time I have full-speed Internet access again. I<br />
take my phone, look at the long list of notifications and pocket<br />
it again while I look over the lake. Thanks to Ethiopia, I’m less<br />
hooked than before.<br />
➔<br />
Plan your trip<br />
Kenya Airways operates non-stop daily<br />
flights to Addis Ababa from Nairobi’s<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.<br />
Philip Lee Harvey, Michael Poliza, Joost Bastmeijer
38 / PEOPLE / Cycling<br />
PEOPLE / 39<br />
In The<br />
Saddle<br />
A BREAKAWAY GROUP of African<br />
cyclists are attempting to emulate the<br />
achievements of Kenyan-born, four-time<br />
Tour de France champion Chris Froome.<br />
text Graham Willgoss<br />
Personal best: 2nd overall, <strong>2018</strong><br />
Giro Rosa<br />
Ashleigh<br />
Moolman-<br />
Pasio<br />
Born<br />
9 December, 1985<br />
Hometown<br />
Pretoria, South Africa<br />
Team<br />
Cervélo–Bigla Pro Cycling<br />
Greatest achievements<br />
1st, African Continental Championships<br />
– Road Race (2011, 2012, 2013 and<br />
2015); 3rd, La Course (<strong>2018</strong>); 1st<br />
Mountains Classification, Setmana<br />
Ciclista Valenciana (<strong>2018</strong>); 3rd,<br />
Commonwealth Games – Road Race<br />
(2014); 3rd, World Championships – Team<br />
Time Trial (2016)<br />
“I WANT THE world to wake up to see that Africa<br />
already has someone capable of ‘podiuming’ at a Grand<br />
Tour,” said Ashleigh Moolman-Pasio (32) before July’s<br />
Giro Rosa. A bold statement; but the South African<br />
made history by doing exactly that when she finished<br />
second overall at the Giro Rosa: the only Grand Tour<br />
in women’s cycling.<br />
Moolman-Pasio, who rides for the Cervélo–Bigla<br />
Pro Cycling team, backed that up just two days later<br />
with a thrilling third-place finish at La Course, the<br />
prestigious one-day race staged by Tour de France<br />
owners, ASO. Standing on the podium as an African<br />
woman, she explains, is no small thing because cycling<br />
is still in its nascent phase in Africa. “As an African or<br />
South African, you might have the physical potential,<br />
ability or talent to become a really great cyclist, but<br />
you’re not going to become one of the world’s best by<br />
staying in your own country. You have to make that<br />
decision [to move to Europe].”<br />
Moolman-Pasio turned professional in 2010, and<br />
has won the African Continental Championships<br />
road race three times, but this campaign has been her<br />
most rewarding. This season, she bagged 13 top-10s<br />
before competing at Giro Rosa. Her success is hard<br />
earned. “Professional cycling is a very challenging<br />
career because there are so many things out of our<br />
control that can go wrong,” she says. “Injury is a very<br />
real part of the sport. Even in the first year of being<br />
pro, I broke my collarbone three times. The third<br />
time, my mum called me... and said, ‘Isn’t this enough<br />
now?’ I was still so hungry and determined that the<br />
answer was straightaway, ‘No. I haven’t finished what<br />
I’ve started.’”<br />
Getty Images<br />
“In the first year<br />
of being pro, I broke my<br />
collarbone three times”
40 / PEOPLE / Cycling<br />
PEOPLE / 41<br />
“I always tell young<br />
Rwandan cyclists, both<br />
boys and girls, about my<br />
story. I want to help<br />
them reach their dream”<br />
“It is a big step for African<br />
cycling… I’m proud to be<br />
African and I’m proud to be<br />
Eritrean”<br />
Gruber Images<br />
Getty Images<br />
Personal best: 1st overall,<br />
2010 Tour of Rwanda<br />
Daniel<br />
Teklehaimanot<br />
Born<br />
10 November, 1988<br />
Hometown<br />
Debarwa, Eritrea<br />
Team<br />
Cofidis<br />
Greatest achievements<br />
First black African to wear a Tour de France<br />
classification jersey of any kind (Climber’s<br />
polka-dot jersey, 2015); 1st, 2010 African<br />
Continental Championships – Road Race; 1st,<br />
African Continental Championships – Time Trial<br />
(2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013)<br />
THE FIRST AFRICAN to wear the polka-dot jersey –<br />
awarded to the best climber after mountain stages – Eritrea’s<br />
Daniel Teklehaimanot (29) gave himself and his country a day<br />
they will never forget at the Tour de France in 2015.<br />
“It’s a big step for African cycling and I feel really proud,”<br />
said Teklehaimanot, then riding for South African team MTN<br />
Qhubeka (now Team Dimension Data), on becoming the first<br />
black African to wear a Tour de France classification jersey of any<br />
kind. “I’m proud to be African and I’m proud to be Eritrean…<br />
With this jersey, it’s a dream that has come true.”<br />
Teklehaimanot and compatriot Merhawi Kudus also marked<br />
a genuine cultural milestone in professional cycling – a sport<br />
dominated by white riders – that same year as the first black<br />
Africans to compete at the Tour de France. They had come so far<br />
from a country that has so little.<br />
By then, Teklehaimanot was used to making African cycling<br />
history. At the London 2012 Olympic Games, he became the first<br />
Eritrean to compete in a sport other than athletics when he finished<br />
73rd in the road race. Thanks to his African success – he has won<br />
10 gold medals across the road race, time trial and team time trial<br />
at the African Continental Road Cycling Championships – he<br />
then spent four seasons with Team Dimension Data. There, he<br />
won the mountain classification leader’s jersey twice at the<br />
Critérium du Dauphiné and the Giro d’Italia equivalent – the<br />
blue climber’s jersey – after stages two and three in 2017. These<br />
achievements made him the highest-profile black African rider at<br />
Team Dimension Data.<br />
Despite his impressive palmarès (list of wins), this year’s Tour<br />
de France was the second in a row in which no black African had<br />
been selected for any team. Teklehaimanot is currently at French<br />
team Cofidis, who compete at Pro Continental level – cycling’s<br />
second tier – and rode this year’s race without him.<br />
ADRIEN NIYONSHUTI’S cycling career is a Cinderella story<br />
that would never have been told if someone hadn’t taken a chance.<br />
That someone is Jock Boyer, a former professional cyclist and<br />
the first American to ride the Tour de France. In 2005, Boyer went<br />
to Rwanda believing that, if East Africa could produce athletes<br />
with the natural physiology that made them such dominant distance<br />
runners, he could find cyclists with the potential to compete<br />
at a World Tour level. And this in a country rebuilding after one of<br />
modern history’s most devastating events: the 1994 genocide.<br />
“The physiological attributes of Rwandans are definitely<br />
attuned to cycling,” says Boyer, who went on to found – and still<br />
runs – Rwanda’s national cycling team. “Rwandans are skinny,<br />
tall and have a very good power-to-weight ratio [making them<br />
excellent natural climbers].”<br />
The most successful product of Boyer’s project is Niyonshuti<br />
(31), whom the American transformed from a raw talent on a<br />
wooden bike into a World Tour rider. Niyonshuti won the 2008<br />
Tour of Rwanda and became the first of his countrymen to race<br />
a bike at the Olympic Games: in the cross-country mountain bike<br />
event at London 2012, where he was also Rwanda’s flag-bearer.<br />
He’s the only Rwandan to have ridden for a World Tour outfit<br />
(South Africa’s Team Dimension Data), and he qualified for the<br />
road race at the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. Last season, Niyonshuti<br />
left Team Dimension Data after nine years. He says he’s<br />
aiming to get back on his mountain bike at the 2020 Olympic<br />
Games in Tokyo. For now, he rides for South African team Sampada<br />
and runs his own academy for young riders in Rwamagana.<br />
“It has been amazing… I always tell young Rwandan cyclists,<br />
both boys and girls, about my story. I want to help them reach<br />
their dream. I want to give them opportunities and open doors for<br />
them,” says Niyonshuti in an ESPN news article.<br />
Personal best: 1st overall, 2008<br />
Tour of Rwanda<br />
Adrien<br />
Niyonshuti<br />
Born<br />
2 January, 1987<br />
Hometown<br />
Rwamagana, Rwanda<br />
Team<br />
Sampada<br />
Greatest achievements<br />
First black African to compete in<br />
mountain biking at the 2012 Olympic<br />
Games (London); 1st, National<br />
Championships Rwanda – Road Race<br />
(2011 and 2012); 1st, National<br />
Championships Rwanda – Time Trial<br />
(2016 and 2017)
42 / PEOPLE / Cycling<br />
PEOPLE / 43<br />
“My dream is to<br />
race a big race like<br />
the Giro d’Italia”<br />
Kenyan Riders Downunder<br />
“I hope my story can<br />
inspire some women<br />
in Africa”<br />
Getty Images<br />
Personal best: 1st,<br />
Stage 3, <strong>2018</strong> Sharjah<br />
Tour<br />
Salim<br />
Kipkemboi<br />
Born<br />
30 November, 1998<br />
Hometown<br />
Eldoret, Kenya<br />
Team<br />
Bike Aid<br />
Greatest achievements<br />
4th overall, <strong>2018</strong> Sharjah Tour; 16th, <strong>2018</strong><br />
African Continental Championships – Road<br />
Race; 39th, <strong>2018</strong> Commonwealth Games –<br />
Road Race; 7th overall, 2017 Tour Meles<br />
Zenawi for Green Development<br />
ITEN MIGHT BE the spiritual home of running and the<br />
training ground of countless Kenyan distance champions, but a<br />
project exists to take the native athletic talent and turn them into<br />
cycling’s Grand Tour winners of the future.<br />
Instrumental in identifying and developing that potential is<br />
Australian Simon Blake, a coach at the Kenyan Riders Downunder<br />
training camp 2,400-m high in the Rift Valley. “If you go with the<br />
school of thought that says that Kenyan athletes have a genetic<br />
advantage, most of the traits that would be beneficial to running<br />
would also be beneficial in endurance cycling,” he explains.<br />
Blake is part of a programme run in partnership with<br />
German non-profit and UCI Continental team Bike Aid. One<br />
of that partnership’s fastest-rising stars is Salim Kipkemboi (19),<br />
who knows what success looks like despite his tender years. He<br />
comes from the same tribe as current Olympic 5,000-m champion<br />
Vivian Cheruiyot, and last year lined up for the Tour of the Alps, a<br />
race won by current Tour de France champion Geraint Thomas.<br />
His aim is to use the shared physiological traits of his compatriot<br />
to emulate the Welshman’s Grand Tour glory.<br />
Kipkemboi was transporting firewood on his bike when he<br />
first joined the programme. After a four-year apprenticeship, he’s<br />
now a pro rider whose most notable results to date are his queenstage<br />
win and subsequent fourth-place overall finish in February’s<br />
Sharjah Tour in the UAE, where he also won the jersey for the best<br />
young rider. This year, he also finished 39th in the Commonwealth<br />
Games road race on Australia’s Gold Coast; lined up alongside<br />
development teams from the pro peloton – including Sunweb and<br />
Team Dimension Data – at Le Tour de Savoie Mont Blanc; and<br />
raced at the two-week Tour of Qinghai Lake in China.<br />
“My dream is to race a big race like the Giro d’Italia or go to<br />
the Tour de France,” says Kipkemboi during a CNN Inside Africa<br />
programme. Blake believes that it’s possible.<br />
MAURITIAN RIDER Aurelie Halbwachs (32) represented<br />
her country for the first time at the African Cycling Championships<br />
in 2006, winning gold in the individual time trial. “I was so<br />
proud to be on the top step for my first time... standing under the<br />
national colours of Mauritius as the flags were raised and our<br />
anthem played,” she says in a Team Africa Rising article. “The<br />
South African women were not really happy as they were the<br />
only ones dominating road racing in Africa at the time!” This<br />
race would set the tone for much of her medal-laden career.<br />
Halbwachs is easily her country’s most successful, most versatile<br />
rider, having represented the island nation twice on the biggest<br />
stage: in the road race at the 2008 and 2012 Olympic Games. She<br />
has also ridden for Mauritius three times at the Commonwealth<br />
Games: in 2010, 2014 and again in Australia this year, where she<br />
came in 12th in the individual time trial, but suffered a mechanical<br />
problem in the road race, which forced her to withdraw.<br />
Halbwachs has been named her country’s sportswoman of the<br />
year four times, but had to wait until last year to stand on the top<br />
of the podium at the African Continental Championships, 11<br />
years after she first did so. This time, she achieved road race and<br />
time trial gold. Arguably a greater achievement, however, was her<br />
bronze medal at the championships while almost three-months<br />
pregnant in 2015.<br />
Halbwachs is not only a versatile rider on the road; her<br />
talents extend to more rugged terrain, as she has proved with a<br />
silver and a bronze medal at the CAC Mountain Bike African<br />
Championships. If she has made it look easy, Halbwachs’ journey<br />
to this point has been anything but. “I had to battle hard to find<br />
sponsors for my travel expenses many times and it’s unfortunate…<br />
I hope my story can inspire some women in Africa.”<br />
Personal best: 1st, 2017 African<br />
Continental Championships Road<br />
Race and Time Trial<br />
Aurelie<br />
Halbwachs<br />
Born<br />
24 August, 1986<br />
Hometown<br />
Curepipe, Mauritius<br />
Greatest achievements<br />
1st, 2006 African Continental<br />
Championships – Time Trial; 2nd, 2010<br />
African Continental Championships –<br />
Time Trial; 2nd, 2013 CAC Mountain Bike<br />
African Championships
- FRANCE -<br />
44 / TRAVEL / Facts<br />
In 2014, Kenya Airways<br />
promoted Irene Koki Mutungi<br />
to Captain of the 787-8,<br />
making her the first female<br />
Dreamliner Captain in Africa.<br />
Landing Gear<br />
Irene Koki Mutungi actively mentors,<br />
supports and encourages girls to take<br />
up science, technology, engineering and<br />
mathematics subjects at school.<br />
Nose Gear<br />
Steering System.<br />
Nose Landing<br />
Gear Door.<br />
The ground speeds are approx. 165<br />
knots (360 km/hr) for take-off and<br />
approx. 140 knots (260 km/hr) for<br />
landing (depending on the weight).<br />
The tyres are 101 cm<br />
in diameter, 40 cm in<br />
width, and they have<br />
40-cm rims. The tyre<br />
pressure is 187 PSI.<br />
EVERYDAY PROOF<br />
The 787-8 landing<br />
gear is extremely<br />
strong, and it can<br />
comfortably land<br />
a weight of up<br />
to 172,365 kg.<br />
With a maximum take-off weight of 228,000 to<br />
251,000 kg, an aircraft needs a solid pair of wheels<br />
to secure a safe take-off and landing. Irene Koki<br />
Mutungi, Captain on the 787-8 Dreamliner, gives<br />
us the lowdown on this modest yet indispensable<br />
component of the aircraft.<br />
“The landing gear comprises of the wheels, brakes<br />
and steering mechanism,” she says. “They support<br />
the aircraft on the ground and make it possible to<br />
take off and land. The 787-8 has two main landing<br />
gear under the wings, and one nose gear (pictured)<br />
in the front of the aircraft. Each main gear has four<br />
wheels, and the nose gear has two wheels.” After<br />
take-off, the wheels retract into the aircraft fuselage<br />
until its time to prepare for landing when they are<br />
extended. “To retract and extend the gear, we use a<br />
hydraulic system,” adds Mutungi. “When the wheels are<br />
retracted, they are stored in compartments below the<br />
passenger cabin. There are also carbon ceramic brakes<br />
that aid in manoeuvring on the ground.” Mutungi,<br />
who has been working for Kenya Airways for 23 years,<br />
concludes by reassuring us that, “Losing a wheel is<br />
highly unlikely, but if the gear does not extend normally,<br />
we have alternate extension systems in place.”<br />
text: Annette Lavrijsen image: Alamy<br />
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46 / TREND / Space<br />
TREND / 47<br />
Liftoff<br />
Africa’s SPACE PROGRAMME is underway.<br />
Communications, disaster management and<br />
agriculture have entered the technetronic age with<br />
the help of orbital satellites.<br />
text Andrea Dijkstra<br />
OVERLOOKING THE ETHIOPIAN capital is Mount<br />
Entoto, the so-called “lung of Addis Ababa”. Rising 3,200 m<br />
above sea level, the highest peak of the Entoto Mountains got<br />
its name because of the dense collection of eucalyptus trees that<br />
cover it. This forest was once a key source of building materials<br />
for Addis Ababa. Among these trees now sit two futuristic metal<br />
domes, standing out against the blue sky and juxtaposing the<br />
surrounding fields, which are still ploughed by farmers using<br />
oxen. Both buildings house a computer-controlled optical<br />
telescope that weighs six tonnes and costs about US$1.5 million.<br />
They are part of the US$4 million Entoto Observatory and<br />
Space Science Research Center, which is the first space observatory<br />
in East Africa, and, essentially, the first building block<br />
of the country’s space programme. Ethiopia will enter the next<br />
phase when it launches its own satellite from a facility in China<br />
within four years.<br />
Ethiopia is one of a rising number of countries on the<br />
African continent that have created national space agencies.<br />
Eight of them already have operating satellites: Algeria, Angola,<br />
Egypt, Ghana, Kenya, Morocco, Nigeria and South Africa.<br />
Although critics think it’s an odd use of scarce resources on a<br />
continent where over 42 percent of the population still lives<br />
below the poverty line, experts in the industry claim that space<br />
technology is crucial for the development of Africa. “Space<br />
science technology is often considered a luxury for developed<br />
countries only, but it’s actually a basic and vital need for development,”<br />
says Dr Solomon Belay Tessema, Director General<br />
of the Entoto Observatory and Space Science Research Center.<br />
He adds that space technology develops sectors including<br />
energy, mining, data processing, and agriculture.<br />
><br />
Africa’s space race<br />
While the US and the Soviet Union<br />
strived to become the first nation<br />
to put a human into space in the<br />
previous century, a new “space race”<br />
has recently broken out in Africa. The<br />
continent now has its first “Afronaut”.<br />
Mark Shuttleworth, from South Africa,<br />
became the first African to travel to<br />
space when he joined the Russian<br />
Soyuz TM-34 mission – in 2002 – as<br />
the second self-funded space tourist,<br />
paying approximately US$20 million,<br />
and spending eight days at the<br />
International Space Station. However,<br />
the race for the first black “Afronaut”<br />
is still in full swing. South African<br />
Mandla Maseko (29), a part-time DJ<br />
who grew up in a township, defeated<br />
a million other fellow applicants<br />
of the Axe Apollo Space Academy<br />
competition in 2013, which gave<br />
him a ticket to join one of the<br />
Lynx Mark II flights. Although he<br />
has already done several training<br />
assignments, no firm plans been<br />
made public yet.<br />
Getty Images
48 / TREND / Space<br />
TREND / 49<br />
Jeroen van Loon<br />
Entoto Observatory and<br />
Space Science Research<br />
Center, Ethiopia<br />
mation about changes in their natural resources and environment,<br />
and this vital information will help countries to attract<br />
investments and plan further economic development.” Nigeria<br />
will launch two more satellites within three years in collaboration<br />
with China Great Wall Industry Corporation.<br />
While no African country is within realistic reach of the<br />
moon yet, Nigeria and South Africa have by far the most<br />
advanced space programmes on the continent. American space<br />
agency NASA built a radio astronomy observatory in South<br />
Africa in the 1960s. Last July, the country inaugurated the<br />
US$330 million MeerKAT radio telescope, which will enable<br />
astronomers to paint a detailed picture of some of the deepest<br />
reaches of outer space, and to survey the entire sky thousands<br />
of times faster than any system currently in existence.<br />
While high costs prevented many African nations from<br />
starting a space programme in the past, thanks to new inventions<br />
like the CubeSat – a type of miniaturised satellite that<br />
is cheaper to deploy – and the growing number of private<br />
companies that are entering the exploration domain, the satellite<br />
industry is becoming more accessible for newcomers. Kenya,<br />
for example, launched its first cube satellite – in May this year<br />
– from the Japanese module of NASA’s International Space<br />
Station (ISS) after it was brought there by SpaceX, the private<br />
American company led by Elon Musk, which aims to reduce<br />
space transportation costs. This same company delivered the<br />
GhanaSat-1 – Ghana’s first satellite – to the ISS one year earlier.<br />
It will be used to monitor Ghana’s coastline for mapping purposes.<br />
It will also be used to integrate satellite technology into<br />
the high-school curriculum. Furthermore, Côte d’Ivoire plans<br />
to launch a satellite in the coming two years to obtain better<br />
meteorological data and fight rising piracy in the Gulf of<br />
Guinea.<br />
3<br />
The number of Nigerian satellites that are<br />
currently in orbit<br />
8<br />
The number of African countries with<br />
satellites in orbit<br />
US$4 million<br />
Mohammed Hussein Al Amoudi funded<br />
most of the Entoto Observatory and<br />
Science Research Center in Ethiopia<br />
US$3 billion<br />
The money spent on space projects in<br />
Africa since 1998<br />
HIGH-TECH MONITORING<br />
Ethiopia plans to launch a Chinese-built earth-observation<br />
satellite that will be used to monitor crops and the weather. “It<br />
will be able to check for eligible soil types, the humidity of soil<br />
and also what kind of crops are suitable in which regions,” says<br />
electrical engineer Ghion Ashenafi of Entoto Observatory, as<br />
the bright sky unfolds above us with the opening of the dome.<br />
“This is extremely valuable information that we can use to<br />
improve our agriculture sector, especially in these times of<br />
climate change.” Satellite technology also assists in monitoring<br />
construction of major infrastructure projects like the Grand<br />
Ethiopian Renaissance Dam. “Ethiopia is already using<br />
foreign-owned satellites for such purposes,” adds Ashenafi.<br />
Elsewhere in Africa, South Africa has built six operational<br />
satellites in orbit that monitor droughts, fires and floods, while<br />
examining the growth of settlements and the transformation of<br />
housing, which provides useful data for town planning. Nigeria<br />
has launched five satellites since 2003, and its first one – the<br />
NigeriaSat-1 – played a significant role in providing the first<br />
satellite images after Hurricane Katrina struck New Orleans in<br />
2005. Nigeria uses its three operational satellites for telecommunications,<br />
disaster management, agriculture and weather<br />
forecasts, but also to track the movements of extremist group<br />
Boko Haram, and to prepare for elections. “With the last<br />
presidential elections, the images helped us localise hard-toreach<br />
villages that are not yet on any map, and to calculate<br />
how many polling stations and ballot papers we needed in<br />
those areas,” says Director Strategic Space Applications at the<br />
National Space Research and Development Agency in Nigeria<br />
Halilu Ahmad. “Space technology is crucial for Africa as so<br />
many countries still lack accurate maps and up-to-date infor-<br />
“Experts in the industry<br />
claim that space technology<br />
is crucial for the development<br />
of Africa”<br />
Did you know?<br />
• In 1964, the self-appointed Director of Zambia’s national<br />
space programme, Edward Mukuka Nkoloso, rolled his<br />
space trainees down a hill in oil drums to simulate the<br />
weightless conditions of the moon. He was unsuccessful<br />
in landing the first Zambian on the moon, but the 2014<br />
film Mukuka Nkoloso the Afronaut was inspired by his<br />
efforts.<br />
• Nigeria’s first satellite – the NigeriaSat-1 – played a<br />
significant role in providing the first satellite images<br />
after Hurricane Katrina struck New Orleans in 2005.<br />
• Hartebeesthoek Radio Astronomy Observatory in South<br />
Africa received the world’s first close-up images of the<br />
planet Mars.<br />
ASTRONAUT AFRICA<br />
While the argument still persists that the continent’s many<br />
problems – such as food insecurity, poor education and disease<br />
– should take precedence over the development of a space<br />
industry, awareness is growing about the potential for space<br />
technology to help tackle these pressing issues. The African<br />
Union passed an African space policy and a continent-wide<br />
space strategy in 2017, calling for the development of a continental<br />
space programme and the adoption of a framework to<br />
use satellite communication for the social, economic, political<br />
and environmental needs of the continent. In June this year,<br />
the African Union inked a deal with the European Commission’s<br />
Copernicus programme, which gives African scientists<br />
daily access to 12 terabytes of Earth-observation data, including<br />
land temperature, vegetation changes, weather patterns and<br />
aerial photographs of sea topography. This data is very useful<br />
given that Africa experiences droughts, heatwaves, floods, and<br />
rising sea levels more frequently than other continents.<br />
“In countries where the failure of a harvest may mean the<br />
difference between bounty and starvation, satellites have helped<br />
planners manage scarce resources and head off potential disasters<br />
before insects could wipe out an entire crop,” says space<br />
scientist Meshack Kinyua Ndiritu from the African Union.<br />
“For example, in agricultural regions near the fringes of the<br />
Sahara desert, scientists used satellite images to predict where<br />
locust swarms were breeding and were able to prevent the<br />
locusts from swarming, thus saving large areas of cropland.”<br />
He goes on to explain that satellites can also show the best<br />
places to drill for water or oil, or systematically monitor large<br />
areas to assess the spread of pollution and other damage. Such<br />
monitoring capabilities are critical for the long-term sustainable<br />
use of the continent’s scarce resources.<br />
US$185 million<br />
African civil space programme spending in<br />
Four of the seven<br />
satellite dishes in<br />
Carnarvon, South Africa<br />
2014, compared to a global<br />
US$42.4 billion<br />
xxxxx
50 / NATURE / Views /<br />
NATURE / 51<br />
Return<br />
Ticket<br />
Every October, almost<br />
TWO MILLION<br />
WILDEBEEST return<br />
from the Maasai Mara<br />
to the Serengeti. It’s a<br />
second chance to see<br />
the Great Migration.<br />
text Ben Clark<br />
WHILE SUMMER brings approx.<br />
1.7 million white-bearded wildebeest<br />
– with 400,000 Thomson’s and Grant’s<br />
gazelles, 300,000 zebras, 12,000 eland and<br />
impalas – from Tanzania to the abundant<br />
pastures of the Maasai Mara National<br />
Reserve in Kenya, fear not if you visit<br />
in Autumn. In October, as the Maasai<br />
Mara’s grazing conditions begin to fade,<br />
the animals start their return journey to<br />
southern Tanzania.<br />
They head south towards the<br />
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, then on<br />
to the Loliondo Game Controlled Area,<br />
before arriving in the short-grass plains<br />
of Serengeti National Park in time for the<br />
rains. The migration occurs within an<br />
area that is known as the “Serengeti ecosystem”.<br />
While the main concentration of<br />
migrating animals occurs in Kenya from<br />
July to September and during October,<br />
the movement is not an islotated event;<br />
these animals can, in fact, be seen during<br />
most of the year. Many people track the<br />
detailed movements of the herds, or book<br />
special safaris at camps and lodges dotting<br />
their path to witness the spectacle from<br />
close up.<br />
Although most of the Maasai Mara<br />
provides prime viewing in October, for<br />
the best migration experience head just<br />
over the Kenyan border, between Klein’s<br />
Camp and the Lamai Wedge in Tanzania.<br />
Maasai Mara National Reserve is about 280<br />
km (a five-hour drive) west of Nairobi Jomo<br />
Kenyatta International Airport.<br />
Piper Mackay
BUSINESS /53<br />
Geography<br />
All islands<br />
Endless white beaches with clear turquoise water and lagoons.<br />
Endemic animal species<br />
Mauritian flying fox<br />
(Mauritius, Réunion)<br />
Réunion<br />
Volcanic island<br />
covered in craters.<br />
Mostly mountainous,<br />
with fertile lowlands<br />
along the coast.<br />
Mauritius<br />
Volcanic island with a<br />
central plateau rimmed by<br />
mountains. The island is<br />
surrounded by coral reefs.<br />
Comoros<br />
Volcanic islands.<br />
Interiors vary from<br />
steep mountains<br />
to low hills.<br />
Seychelles<br />
About half of the<br />
islands are granite,<br />
with narrow coastal<br />
strips and hills<br />
rising to more than<br />
900 m.<br />
Seychelles<br />
Blue Pigeon/<br />
Pizon Olande<br />
(Seychelles)<br />
Pink pigeon<br />
(Mauritius)<br />
Mayotte<br />
Sunbird<br />
(Mayotte)<br />
Livingstone’s fruit<br />
bat/Comoro flying fox<br />
(Comoros)<br />
Source: tripadvisor.com, worldtravelguide.net, factsking.com<br />
Passport<br />
Name<br />
Vanilla Islands<br />
Location<br />
Indian Ocean<br />
Island nations<br />
Mauritius, Seychelles, Comoros, Madagascar, Mayotte, Réunion<br />
Biggest island<br />
Madagascar<br />
Smallest island (by area) Mayotte<br />
Currency<br />
Mauritian Rupee (MUR), Seychelles Rupee (SCR), Comoran Franc (KMF), (Madagascar)<br />
Malagasy Ariary (MGA), (Mayotte & Réunion) Euro (EUR)<br />
Local time<br />
UTC +4h: Mauritius, Seychelles, Réunion; UTC +3h: Comoros, Mayotte, Madagscar<br />
Languages<br />
Mauritius: English; Seychelles: Seychelles Creole, English, and French; Comoros: Comorian,<br />
Arabic, French; Madagascar: Malagasy, French; Mayotte: French; Réunion: French<br />
Flight info<br />
Kenya Airways operates four direct daily flights to Mauritius<br />
Touristic highlights<br />
• The Seven Coloured<br />
Earths, an area of sand<br />
dunes comprising sand<br />
of seven distinct colours.<br />
• Plage de Moya,<br />
a beach formed by three<br />
old craters.<br />
• Piton de la Fournaise,<br />
one of the most active<br />
volcanoes in the world.<br />
• Diving, snorkelling<br />
and turtle-spotting.<br />
• Anse Source d’Argent,<br />
a beach of pure-white<br />
sand and unique<br />
boulders.<br />
• Isalo National Park,<br />
which is often called<br />
“Jurassic Park”.<br />
Mauritius<br />
Mayotte<br />
Réunion<br />
Comoros<br />
Seychelles<br />
Madagascar<br />
Local food<br />
Mauritius<br />
Dishes such as roti, curry,<br />
samosa, chutney, rougaille (a<br />
Creole tomato sauce).<br />
Mayotte<br />
Fresh seafood<br />
with rice and<br />
coconut milk.<br />
Réunion<br />
Simple and spicy.<br />
Locally made rum is<br />
one of the favourite<br />
drinks here.<br />
1,000 km<br />
Seychelles<br />
Fish, seafood and shellfish<br />
dishes, often accompanied<br />
with (curry) rice.<br />
Comoros<br />
Fresh seafood<br />
with rice and<br />
meat. A<br />
special dish<br />
is lobster<br />
boiled in a<br />
rich vanilla<br />
sauce.<br />
Madagascar<br />
Rice with loaka, a tomato-based sauce.<br />
Common ingredients are garlic, onions,<br />
ginger, tomatoes, curry, coconut milk,<br />
vanilla, cloves and turmeric.<br />
Sources: britannica.com, cia.gov<br />
Sources: britannica.com, wits.worldbank.org, cia.gov Sources: britannica.com, justfunfacts.com<br />
Mayotte<br />
High volcanic peaks and<br />
lush evergreen tropical<br />
forests surrounded by<br />
coral reefs.<br />
Population, main industries and key products<br />
Main<br />
industries<br />
Export<br />
products<br />
Agriculture<br />
products<br />
Mayotte<br />
Lobster and shrimp industry,<br />
construction.<br />
Ylang-ylang (perfume<br />
essence), vanilla, copra,<br />
coconuts, coffee, cinnamon.<br />
Vanilla, ylang-ylang,<br />
coffee, copra.<br />
Madagascar<br />
Meat processing,<br />
soap, breweries,<br />
tanneries, sugar,<br />
textiles, glassware,<br />
cement.<br />
Vanilla, nickel (unwrought),<br />
cloves.<br />
Population<br />
(2017)<br />
25<br />
million<br />
Coffee, vanilla, sugarcane,<br />
cloves, cocoa, rice, cassava<br />
(tapioca), beans, bananas, peanuts.<br />
Madagascar<br />
Varies from coast to<br />
coast. At the central plateau:<br />
mountains, volcanoes, and rice<br />
fields. Along the<br />
coast: fertile<br />
lowlands and<br />
coral reefs.<br />
237,000<br />
Comoros<br />
Mayotte<br />
Comoros<br />
Tourism, perfume distillation.<br />
Vanilla, ylang-ylang (perfume<br />
essence), cloves.<br />
Vanilla, ylang-ylang, jasmine, cassis,<br />
cloves, perfume essences, copra,<br />
coconuts, bananas, cassava (tapioca).<br />
Madagascar<br />
808,000<br />
Seychelles<br />
Vanilla<br />
Islands<br />
Réunion<br />
Mauritius<br />
95,000<br />
1,260,000<br />
853,000<br />
Lemur<br />
(Madagascar)<br />
Fossa<br />
(Madagascar)<br />
Mauritius<br />
Gold dust<br />
day Gecko<br />
(Réunion,<br />
Madagascar)<br />
Mongoose<br />
lemur<br />
(Comoros)<br />
Seychelles<br />
Fishing, tourism, processing<br />
of coconuts and vanilla, coir<br />
(coconut fibre) rope, boat-building,<br />
printing, furniture, beverages.<br />
Canned tuna, frozen fish, petroleum<br />
products.<br />
Coconuts, cinnamon, vanilla, sweet<br />
potatoes, cassava (tapioca),<br />
bananas, broiler chickens, tuna fish.<br />
Textiles and clothing, watches and<br />
clocks, jewellery, optical goods, toys<br />
and games, cut flowers.<br />
Clothing and textiles, sugar, cut<br />
flowers, molasses, fish, primates<br />
(for research).<br />
Sugar, sugar derivatives, tea,<br />
tobacco, vegetables, fruits, flowers,<br />
fishing.<br />
Réunion<br />
Sugar, rum, cigarettes, handicraft<br />
items, flower-oil extraction.<br />
Sugarcane, essential oils, bourbon<br />
vanilla, fish and seafood (mainly tuna,<br />
swordfish and Patagonian toothfish).<br />
Sugarcane, vanilla, tobacco, tropical<br />
fruits, vegetables, corn.<br />
Sources: wikipedia.org, factsking.com, justfunfacts.com
54 / BUSINESS / MICE<br />
BUSINESS / 55<br />
OF MICE<br />
AND MEN<br />
Meetings, Incentives, Conferences and<br />
Exhibitions (MICE) are proliferating in Kenya,<br />
adding another dimension to the nation’s<br />
growing business sector.<br />
text Ken Kagicha<br />
Stocksy<br />
IN 2015, Kenya won the bid to host<br />
the Skål World Congress, which would<br />
have seen over 1,000 global travel and<br />
hospitality professionals gather in<br />
Mombasa. Although the Skål secretariat<br />
cancelled the meeting due to security<br />
concerns, Kenya was assured that it<br />
would get priority consideration in<br />
future. It didn’t take long for Kenya’s<br />
coastal city to be chosen once again.<br />
CONFERENCE CALL<br />
Mombasa will host the 79th Skål<br />
World Congress – from 17-21 October<br />
– at the PrideInn Paradise Beach Resort,<br />
Convention Centre and Spa. Local<br />
organisers are alive to the fact that the<br />
convention is an opportunity to showcase<br />
Kenya’s capacity to host international<br />
meetings, not just in the capital<br />
Nairobi, but also in other cities in Kenya.<br />
The Skål conference couldn’t have come<br />
at a better time: the security concerns<br />
have decimated, the tourism industry in<br />
Kenya is on the upswing and the new<br />
internationally accredited convention<br />
facility at PrideInn allows the city to host<br />
up to 2,500 delegates. Managing Director<br />
of PrideInn Hasnain Noorani says that<br />
having such a facility next to the white,<br />
sandy beach attracts conference travellers<br />
who enjoy the leisure add-ons without<br />
compromising the standards of an international<br />
meeting. “Mombasa is an<br />
attractive destination for conferences<br />
because it combines business and leisure.<br />
We encourage participants to come with<br />
their families so that, during breaks and<br />
after the day sessions, delegates can bond<br />
with family,” he says.<br />
The Skål Congress is one of a dozen<br />
international conferences lined up to<br />
happen in Kenya in late <strong>2018</strong> and early<br />
2019, in what is a rebound of the MICE<br />
sub-category. The number of international<br />
MICE in Kenya contracted from 227<br />
conferences (101,599 delegates) in 2016,<br />
to 191 conferences (64,167 delegates) in<br />
2017. Nearly 90 percent of the international<br />
meetings and conferences have<br />
been held in Nairobi, which holds the<br />
advantage of proximity to the region’s<br />
biggest and busiest airport, home to Kenya<br />
Airways as well as a good mix of conference<br />
facilities. The airport was recently<br />
given Category One status, which made<br />
the forthcoming direct flights between<br />
Kenya and the US possible.<br />
NASCENT NAIROBI<br />
The iconic Kenyatta International<br />
Convention Centre (KICC) – at the heart<br />
of Nairobi – has hosted several high-level<br />
meetings, including the World Trade<br />
Organization’s Ministerial Conference in<br />
2015; the UN Conference on Trade and<br />
Development in 2016, which brought<br />
together 6,000 delegates; and the Tokyo<br />
International Conference on African<br />
Development (TICAD), which hosted<br />
15,000 delegates from all over Africa and<br />
Japan. KICC is also set to host the firstever<br />
global Sustainable Blue Economy<br />
Conference in late November, bringing<br />
together 4,000 participants. Managing<br />
Director Nana Gecaga says the ability to<br />
host big-ticket conferences as well as<br />
cater for the needs of smaller meetings<br />
– of up to 15 people – is what sets a<br />
conference facility apart. “Delegates<br />
want a memorable experience beyond<br />
the normal business meetings,” she says.<br />
“Gone are the days when delegates<br />
would be confined to the hotel or conference<br />
venue. They want to experience the<br />
culture of the host country and interact<br />
with the people.”<br />
According to Gecaga, conference<br />
organisers are now adding tour packages<br />
so guests can sample beach or safari<br />
attractions, adding further to Kenya’s<br />
attractiveness as a conference destination.<br />
Nairobi also boasts of being the only city<br />
with a national park. “Nairobi’s vibrant<br />
nightlife and a depth of restaurants also<br />
offer visitors a wide range of options for<br />
delegates,” adds Gecaga.<br />
However, the leisure activities come<br />
after the basics of the conference have<br />
been arranged. They include: high-speed<br />
Internet; great food; world-class accommodation;<br />
and a conference programme<br />
that allows delegates to network and get<br />
insights at the same time. Most venues<br />
provide plenary ballrooms for delegates,<br />
smaller rooms for breakout brainstorming<br />
sessions, and gala grounds for opening<br />
cocktails or closing dinners; all essential<br />
elements for that all-around experience.<br />
Events and Conferences organiser ><br />
“Nairobi is expected to add 13 new hotels –<br />
with a total of 2,666 rooms – by 2019”<br />
Practical insights<br />
• Plan your event well in advance and secure venue, speakers, guests and suppliers<br />
at least four weeks before the event date.<br />
• Choose a conference venue that has at least one large ballroom with no pillars for<br />
the plenary sessions, and several smaller rooms for breakout sessions.<br />
• Include panel discussions in your sessions to add depth to the conference. Also,<br />
remember to broaden the choice of panellists for diverse views.<br />
• Get a moderator who is engaging, knowledgeable and time-conscious.<br />
• Always have a contact that delegates can reach at any time.
56 / BUSINESS / MICE<br />
Chris Kirwa says that more hotels are<br />
now factoring in conventions as part of<br />
their package. “For many years, I struggled<br />
with ballrooms that had two metres<br />
of headroom and many pillars that made<br />
it very difficult to create an experience for<br />
the guests,” he says. “KICC still stands<br />
out as the biggest venue with over 10<br />
metres of headroom clearance. But we<br />
now have hotels like Radisson Blu,<br />
Mövenpick and Enashipai (in Naivasha)<br />
that have excellent, huge ballrooms.”<br />
According to Kirwa, Kenya’s technical<br />
capacity to hold high-calibre meetings<br />
and expos has come of age. “Years<br />
back,” he says. “You had to import technical<br />
gear into the country. All this is<br />
now right here in Kenya. In fact, we are<br />
now supplying East and Central Africa.”<br />
clients for long stays. “There has been<br />
an increase in requests for residential<br />
meetings, which entail group meetings<br />
with accommodation,” she says. Other<br />
questions include whether the hotel can<br />
host exhibitions, business-to-business<br />
meetings, as well as product launches.<br />
Clients are also sensitive about value for<br />
money, so they will check if the prices<br />
are favourable and compare them with<br />
other similar facilities.<br />
Although Kenya’s MICE industry<br />
is facing competition from Kigali and<br />
Addis Ababa to host regional and international<br />
meetings, Nairobi’s connectivity<br />
“Gone are the days when delegates would be<br />
confined to the hotel or conference venue”<br />
ACCOMMODATING MEASURES<br />
Riding on the back of growing<br />
demand for conference facilities, Nairobi<br />
is expected to add 13 new hotels – with a<br />
total of 2,666 rooms – by 2019, according<br />
to a Jumia Hospitality report, which<br />
ranks Kenya’s capital as a major business<br />
destination alongside Johannesburg,<br />
Abidjan, Accra, Lagos and Cairo. New<br />
players are now competing on accessibility<br />
to key attractions, such as Nairobi<br />
National Park, and proximity to transport<br />
hubs. “Event participants are keen<br />
on accommodation within the conference<br />
venue and other facilities within the hotel,<br />
or those nearby, such as restaurants,<br />
shopping malls and banks,” says Hilton<br />
Garden Inn General Manager Lorenzo<br />
Baleri, adding that the hotel’s proximity<br />
to the Jomo Kenyatta International<br />
Airport ensures that attendees make it<br />
to the right place at the right time.<br />
Meanwhile, hotels such as Mövenpick<br />
and Radisson Blu are packaging<br />
themselves as MICE-centred facilities.<br />
Director of Sales and Marketing at<br />
Mövenpick Hotel & Residences Nairobi,<br />
Neelma Maru says that, in addition to<br />
offering accommodation and conference<br />
services under one roof, guests are also<br />
asking if the hotel can host business<br />
– such as high-speed Internet, and day<br />
and night attractions – make the city<br />
attractive to MICE organisers.<br />
And with more world-class conference<br />
facilities being added to the MICE<br />
inventory, and Nairobi increasingly<br />
becoming the city of choice to host<br />
regional and continental headquarters,<br />
the meeting and conference segment is<br />
expected to expand rapidly in the<br />
coming years.<br />
WHERE TO GO<br />
HILTON GARDEN INN – JOMO KENYATTA<br />
INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />
Excellent location adjacent to the<br />
international airport, Hilton Garden Inn<br />
provides an event space for up to 220 people,<br />
and conference facilities for up to 300 guests.<br />
hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com<br />
MÖVENPICK HOTEL & RESIDENCES<br />
NAIROBI<br />
This MICE-focused hotel offers 14 spacious<br />
and pillarless meeting rooms, a ballroom, a<br />
big exhibition hall and three boardrooms with<br />
natural daylight and high ceilings. A revolving<br />
restaurant gives guests a 360-degree view<br />
of Nairobi.<br />
movenpick.com<br />
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON NAIROBI<br />
HURLINGHAM<br />
This hotel has a total of 255 sq m of meeting<br />
area, which consists of four function rooms<br />
including a 122-sq-m venue; all equipped<br />
with wireless high-speed Internet access and<br />
audiovisual technology.<br />
fourpointsnairobihurlingham.com<br />
EKA HOTEL NAIROBI<br />
Close to the airport and Nairobi National<br />
Park, Eka has three multi-functional meeting<br />
rooms and two boardrooms with a capacity<br />
of 200 people (theatre style). Each room<br />
features natural daylight, audiovisual<br />
equipment and a business centre for the<br />
conference users.<br />
ekahotel.com<br />
KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION<br />
CENTRE (KICC)<br />
This government facility is the largest<br />
convention centre in East Africa. The Tsavo<br />
ballroom can hold 4,000 delegates. KICC<br />
has simultaneous interpretation equipment<br />
with the capability of translating up to seven<br />
languages, a modern business centre, a<br />
banking facility, expansive grounds, and<br />
ample and secure parking.<br />
kicc.co.ke<br />
Eka Hotel
58 / TRAVEL / Quiz<br />
Guess<br />
and Win<br />
We give you five clues about a<br />
KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />
Which country are we referring to?<br />
Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />
or Twitter using #msafiriquiz,<br />
and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />
text Eline Visscher<br />
C<br />
M<br />
Y<br />
CM<br />
MY<br />
CY<br />
CMY<br />
K<br />
1<br />
This African country is seen as the cradle of voodoo, a religion<br />
that was initiated in the 13th century. Because of their beliefs,<br />
locals don’t like to be photographed: they believe that a photograph<br />
can be used to cast a spell or a curse.<br />
2<br />
One of the national parks in this country is named after a<br />
letter in the alphabet, referring to the shape of a river flowing<br />
through that particular park, which is known for its large<br />
mammals, including aardvarks, caracal, cheetahs, elephants,<br />
hippopotami, West African lions and warthogs.<br />
3<br />
Hollywood actor Djimon Hounsou was born in this country.<br />
Hounsou became famous as a lead character in the film,<br />
Blood Diamond (2006), alongside Leonardo DiCaprio and<br />
Jennifer Connelly.<br />
4<br />
In this country, one can explore “The Venice of Africa”: a<br />
lake village built on stilts that can only be reached by boat.<br />
5<br />
Here, pythons are worshipped, so locals don’t panic if one<br />
slithers into their home. There’s even a temple of pythons in<br />
this country, which houses 50 adult royal pythons.<br />
Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #msafiriquiz. Each month, Kenya Airways will pick a winner<br />
and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.<br />
Shutterstock, Getty Images
60 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />
TRAVEL / 61<br />
5<br />
City of<br />
Angels<br />
1<br />
2<br />
Bangkok is a cut-and-thrust<br />
BUSINESS METROPOLIS with an<br />
almost mythical spiritual centre, where<br />
ancient rituals remain as important as<br />
commercial drive.<br />
text Mark Eveleigh<br />
6<br />
THE RISING SUN glints smoothly on the faces of Bangkok’s skyscrapers<br />
while, down below, its rays are shattered by rearing waves on the<br />
surface of the Chao Phraya River. Even from my high-rise window, I can<br />
see that the so-called River of Kings is running with a dramatic swell that<br />
would be more suited to a seascape than a major inland city.<br />
3<br />
4<br />
7<br />
Bartjan Bouman, Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh<br />
HIGH TIME<br />
Insulated in the glass cocoon of my Shangri-La suite, 29 storeys<br />
above the riverbank, I watch another day beginning in what is surely one<br />
of the most fascinating capitals in the world. I’ve always been delighted<br />
by the fast pace of life down on the city streets and along the waterways<br />
but, perhaps because this is a city without hills, there’s an undeniable ><br />
1. A bicycle excursion through the lush plantations just outside Bangkok 2. The<br />
Bangkok skyline seen from a long-tail boat 3. A culinary highlight 4. Khao San Road<br />
backpacker quarter 5. Chakrabongse Villas 6. The Chinatown district 7. Bicycles from<br />
Co van Kessel Bicycle and Boat Tours
62 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />
TRAVEL / 63<br />
thrill to getting up high in Bangkok, and enjoying the view from far above<br />
the temples, palaces and gritty alleyways.<br />
A whole upper echelon of rooftop bars, cafés and sky terraces loom<br />
in the rarefied stratosphere of a city that is estimated to have more than<br />
500 skyscrapers. The fast, efficient sky train carries commuters across the<br />
business centre, high above the bleating tuk-tuks and choked-up hawkercentre<br />
alleyways. Offices rise high over traditional residential quarters,<br />
and skybridges offer access between some of the world’s biggest<br />
multi-storey shopping centres.<br />
THE NEED FOR SPEED<br />
After decompressing high up overnight, I’m ready to return to the<br />
bustle of the street, and, even below that, to the choppy waters of the Chao<br />
Phraya River. The taxi drivers near the hotel greet me with the traditional<br />
wai – hands together in salutation with a slight bow – but I return their<br />
greetings as I stroll past, towards the main road. So many of the world’s<br />
biggest cities are a tiresome slog to travel around, but Bangkok has lively<br />
transport options (both on water and land) that can turn a mundane<br />
cross-city journey into an exhilarating rollercoaster ride. The street pilots,<br />
who operate Bangkok’s iconic tuk-tuks, have a knack for dashing through<br />
even the thickest rush-hour traffic, and within moments, I’m already flying<br />
down Charoen Krung Road with the natural air-con flying full blast in my<br />
face. This is said to be the first modern road built in Thailand (around<br />
1864), and it has seen a lot of changes. In less than 10 minutes, we’re<br />
already roaring under the neon signs of Chinatown and down a section<br />
of side alleys that are misty with the steam from rice and noodle stands.<br />
The tuk-tuk driver sets me down – with another wai – beside a local<br />
coffee stand and I order a strong cup of café bolan. I particularly appreciate<br />
the caffeine jolt this morning since I’m about to explore Bangkok’s<br />
backstreet quarters by bicycle. I’m dubious about this tour because, after<br />
more than 20 trips to this thrilling city, I have grave reservations about<br />
tackling Bangkok’s notorious traffic without the benefit of an engine.<br />
BANGKOK BIKER GANG<br />
“I’m taking you to see a side of Bangkok that few visitors ever see,”<br />
says my guide Prem as she introduces me to the primrose-yellow shoppingcycle<br />
that will be my mount for the morning. “Thonburi is the sleepy side<br />
of Bangkok and a wonderful place for cycling.”<br />
This sounds more enticing than a morning rush-hour bout with the<br />
Chinatown traffic, so I gulp down the last of my coffee and help Prem<br />
load the bikes onto a ferry that is bound for the west bank. Thonburi was<br />
the capital of the Siamese kingdom until 1782 but its full name, Thon<br />
Buri Sri Maha Samut – which means City of Treasures Gracing the<br />
Ocean – seems overly grand these days for what is now a pretty little<br />
backwater residential area. Thai people are world-famous for their<br />
friendliness, and even a convoy of custard-coloured shopping bikes –<br />
representing a real yellow-peril in the narrow alleys – merits a cheerful<br />
sawat di kha greeting from the residents. I’ve explored the tangle of<br />
klongs (canals) around Thonburi many times by long-tail boat, but this<br />
is a fresh outlook as we cycle over hump-backed bridges and alongside<br />
canals. We peddle past Buddhist temples and monasteries where barefoot<br />
monks are returning with alms bowls loaded with offerings from the local<br />
populace, who are grateful for a chance to improve their karma.<br />
“The monks are allowed to eat only up until midday,” Prem ><br />
1. Yaowarat Road in Chinatown 2. Bangkok’s skyline seen from a longtail boat<br />
3. A street stall in Klong San 4. A bus passing the Grand Palace 5. A street stall<br />
selling exotic snacks 6. Spicy bird’s-eye chillies 7. Monks return to their temple<br />
after a ceremony in Chinatown<br />
“The street pilots, who<br />
operate Bangkok’s iconic<br />
tuk-tuks, have a knack<br />
for dashing through even<br />
the thickest rush-hour<br />
traffic”<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Supanniga Cruise<br />
Experience the Chao Phraya River in topdeck,<br />
five-star style on a champagne cruise,<br />
dining on an unforgettable six-course meal<br />
direct from the recipe books of the owner’s<br />
grandmother.<br />
supannigacruise.com<br />
Moon Bar & Vertigo<br />
Perched on the high barstools overlooking<br />
the view from 61 storeys above the business<br />
district of Sathon, you’ll understand why this<br />
venue is called Vertigo. Sample the fresh<br />
seafood and you’ll understand why people<br />
are raving about this place.<br />
banyantree.com<br />
Le Du<br />
Le Du might sound French but this hidden<br />
street-level restaurant’s name is derived from<br />
a Thai word meaning “seasons” and is a<br />
temple celebrating the finest Thai food you’ll<br />
ever eat, prepared by the famous Chef Ton.<br />
ledubkk.com<br />
WHERE TO SLEEP<br />
Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok<br />
One of the premier addresses in Bangkok,<br />
this luxurious 26-storey hotel boasts six dining<br />
outlets (even a “Chocolate Boutique”) along<br />
with incredible views over the River of Kings.<br />
89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road, Bangrak<br />
Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse<br />
Opened in early <strong>2018</strong>, the Marriott<br />
Surawongse is already making a name for<br />
itself as one of Bangrak’s chicest hotels.<br />
The Yao Rooftop Bar (33rd floor) is already<br />
ranking among the city’s best rooftop<br />
rendezvous and the infinity pool (18th floor)<br />
is stunning.<br />
marriott.com<br />
Chakrabongse Villas<br />
The romantic riverside villas that make up<br />
this boutique hotel were transported here by<br />
the Thai prince whose family still owns the<br />
property. You can dine right on the riverbank<br />
on specialities that were traditionally<br />
prepared for Thai royalty.<br />
secret-retreats.com/chakrabongse<br />
Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh, Bartjan Bouman<br />
2<br />
1 3<br />
4<br />
5 6<br />
7
64 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />
TRAVEL / 65<br />
1<br />
2 3<br />
4<br />
7<br />
“A whole upper echelon<br />
of rooftop bars, cafés and<br />
sky terraces loom in the<br />
rarefied stratosphere”<br />
WHAT TO DO<br />
Ayutthaya – the ancient capital<br />
Take a step back in Thai history on a daytrip<br />
to historic Ayutthaya (80 km north of<br />
Bangkok), capital of Siam for about four<br />
centuries (from 1350) and now a fascinating<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Asian experts<br />
Backyard Travel can arrange day-trips that<br />
include a return on a Chao Phraya River<br />
lunch cruise.<br />
backyardtravel.com<br />
Food Tours<br />
The best Bangkok food tours also offer<br />
unique insights into everyday life in the<br />
City of Angels. Chinatown is frequently<br />
a highlight but the area around Phra<br />
Nakhon (Banglamphu) is unbeatable for<br />
local colour. Backyard Travel collaborate<br />
with a network of some of the most<br />
knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides in<br />
the city.<br />
backyardtravel.com<br />
Cycling Bangkok’s Islands<br />
Few visitors realise that, apart from joining a<br />
city cycling tour, it’s also possible to cycle a<br />
couple of Thai islands without even leaving<br />
the capital. Koh Kret (just take the Chao<br />
Phraya commuter ferry to Nonthaburi and<br />
a long-tail from there) is an idyllic little<br />
island community that you can explore in<br />
half a day. Bigger Bang Kra Jao (about the<br />
same size as the old city itself) is often<br />
described as Bangkok’s “green lung”, and<br />
is networked with peaceful cycle trails that<br />
will offer a blissful rural escape from the<br />
frantic pace of the city. Co van Kessel run<br />
excellent bicycle tours through Bangkok.<br />
covankessel.com<br />
explain. “Because they fast in the afternoon, the poor can ask for a meal<br />
simply by visiting a temple later in the day.”<br />
We cycle several miles and, as Prem had promised, I see a new and<br />
alluring side to the city by the time we stop at a roadside stall to eat grilled<br />
toast and condensed milk. Thai food has become justly famous worldwide<br />
and Bangkok is surely one of the most exciting gastronomic cities in<br />
the world. There are enough exotic flavours to challenge the most adventurous<br />
of gourmands, but even the humblest of snacks are often transformed<br />
into something exciting here.<br />
ALLEYWAY 61 REVISITED<br />
No matter what your taste in retail therapy is, Bangkok is a shopper’s<br />
paradise that is home to some of the best shopping centres in the world.<br />
There are said to be about 200 of them in the city, including high-rise<br />
highlights like Central Chidlom (with its unforgettable 7th-floor Food<br />
Loft) and the ultra-chic Siam Paragon (where you can even shop for an<br />
Aston Martin or a Bentley). Less well known, but perhaps among the<br />
quirkiest, is Terminal 21. Styled on an airport concourse, this shopping<br />
centre has 10 floors, each with a different country as its theme. Central-<br />
World is the world’s 11th-biggest shopping centre, but even its 495 stores<br />
pale into insignificance next to Chatuchak Weekend Market.<br />
Boasting 15,000 stalls and attracting about 200,000 people each<br />
weekend, Chatuchak is said to be the world’s biggest market. Within<br />
minutes of entering, I’m already hopelessly lost in what seems to be a<br />
rabbit warren of stalls selling everything you can imagine (minus perhaps<br />
the Aston Martins and Bentleys). This incredible market covers an area<br />
that is about the same as 20 football pitches, and I’ve been in the market<br />
for half an hour when I spot a sign advising me that I’m on Alleyway 61.<br />
It’s afternoon when I eventually emerge onto the road, staggering like a<br />
worker ant under the weight of my purchases, near Alleyway 1.<br />
Chatuchak is best visited on Saturday morning (when many Bangkokians<br />
are still working), as by afternoon, the crowds are already thick<br />
at the sky-train ticket machines. So I flag down a taxi, and in no time I’m<br />
back in the city centre. Thai people know the city simply as Krung Thep.<br />
“Bangkok” is mostly used by foreigners, and dates back three centuries to<br />
a time when the city was a celebrated trading port.<br />
After the subterranean world of Chatuchak Market, it’s a real pleasure<br />
to spend an hour or so basking by the infinity pool that cascades from<br />
the 18th floor of the new Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse. To the<br />
southeast, I can see the city’s tallest tower, MahaNakhon (314 m), looming<br />
over the business centre, etched with its fascinating cubist spiral.<br />
Later I head westwards, enticed by the river. I want to catch a Chao<br />
Phraya Express Boat commuter ferry that will take me down the majestic<br />
sweep of the river towards the old trading area, which was once haunted<br />
by clippers and junks, but is now the evening entertainment area known as<br />
Asiatique The Riverfront. More than 40 restaurants and 1,500 shops have<br />
been established in what were – for many years – abandoned wharf-side<br />
warehouses, traditionally known as “go-downs”.<br />
I’ve come here to check out Asiatique Sky, a giant Ferris wheel that<br />
looms over the ancient wharf. From 60 m above the go-downs, I watch as<br />
the sun begins to bow over the River of Kings, the life-blood of a city,<br />
which, no matter how often you visit, always surpasses expectations.<br />
5 6 8<br />
Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh<br />
Kenya Airways operates non-stop daily<br />
flights to Bangkok from Nairobi’s<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.<br />
1. An iconic tuk-tuk 2. Bangkok’s skyline and the Chao Praya river seen in the evening<br />
3. Asiatique’s shops and ferris wheel 4. Chef Ton at work in Le Du 5. A man reads<br />
the morning paper 6. A couple delivering lunch to boat crews on the Chao Phraya River<br />
7. A Taittinger dinner cruise on the River of Kings 8. Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar
66 / BUSINESS / Book review<br />
“When you<br />
facilitate personal<br />
disruption, you<br />
build an A-Team”<br />
As every coach knows, you don’t win<br />
unless your team does. The same goes<br />
for business. In her latest book, Whitney<br />
Johnson reveals that it’s all about<br />
helping people up the learning curve.<br />
How to hire<br />
Go for potential rather than proficiency.<br />
“We are so harried, we hire someone who<br />
knows how to do the job today − rather<br />
than hire someone who might grow in the<br />
role over the course of many tomorrows,”<br />
writes Johnson. Teams need novices as well<br />
as experts: “Sometimes the best ideas emerge<br />
from not knowing the conventions.”<br />
Learning & growth<br />
For a motivated and engaged team, “personal<br />
disruption” through individual learning is key.<br />
“A manager is a bit like a parent. You push<br />
your charges into uncomfortable situations<br />
and are willing to see them fail to help them<br />
grow,” writes Johnson. The challenge is to<br />
manage, “The movement of people from one<br />
learning curve to the next”. A strong team<br />
includes employees in different developmental<br />
phases.<br />
The sweet spot<br />
“The steep part of the curve is where people<br />
perform proactively. Where they think<br />
creatively. Where they innovate... Ideally, 70<br />
percent of your team will be in this sweet<br />
spot,” writes Johnson. The numbers back this<br />
up: “When challenged, 67 percent of people<br />
will demonstrate above-average creativity.”<br />
About the book<br />
With business anecdotes<br />
and real-life examples<br />
to end-of-chapter<br />
summaries and specific<br />
strategies, Build an<br />
A-Team highlights<br />
the importance of<br />
continuous learning for<br />
all members of a team.<br />
Build an A-Team<br />
Play to Their Strengths<br />
and Lead Them Up the<br />
Learning Curve<br />
Author<br />
Whitney Johnson<br />
Publisher<br />
Harvard Business Review Press<br />
Bio<br />
Whitney Johnson is an expert on<br />
disruptive innovation and personal<br />
disruption, with over 20 years of<br />
experience in coaching, investing<br />
and consulting. She is also a regular<br />
contributor to the Harvard Business<br />
Review.<br />
Pages<br />
208<br />
Summary<br />
Central to this book is the idea<br />
that better morale and higher<br />
performance happen through<br />
learning. Invest in growing your team<br />
in terms of skills and challenges,<br />
stimulating each individual’s<br />
personal career journey, and your<br />
team will grow the company. And<br />
that, as Whitney Johnson shows, is<br />
the basis of an A-Team.<br />
text: Annemarie Hoeve
68 / PHOTO BOOK / Streets of New York<br />
PHOTO BOOK / 69<br />
STREETS OF<br />
NEW YORK<br />
This modern take on the Big Apple contains a<br />
FRESH and DIVERSE collection of images<br />
by photographers from around the world.<br />
text Joost Bastmeijer<br />
New York City, New York<br />
Photo by Pie Aerts<br />
Times Square, Manhattan<br />
Photo by Ivan Meneses
70 / PHOTO BOOK / Streets of New York<br />
PHOTO BOOK / 71<br />
“The city’s diversity<br />
ensures that no<br />
visit here will ever<br />
be the same”<br />
Guggenheim Museum<br />
Upper East Side, Manhattan<br />
Photo by Alessio Radaelli<br />
Manhattan<br />
Photo by Michael G. Young
72 / PHOTO BOOK / Streets of New York<br />
PHOTO BOOK / 73<br />
Rockefeller Center<br />
Theater District, Manhattan<br />
Photo by Patrick Janelle<br />
“The eclectic energy is just<br />
as frantic as the city’s<br />
famous jazz scene”<br />
It’s the trendsetting epicentre of the<br />
arts and one of the best places in the<br />
world to shop and dine. On the streets<br />
of New York, one can walk among the<br />
leaders in fashion, art, design and<br />
commerce. It’s a city that keeps on<br />
evolving, reinventing itself due to a<br />
constant influx of newcomers. New<br />
York has over 200 nationalities, making<br />
it one of the most multicultural cities in<br />
the world.<br />
People from all over the world are<br />
drawn to the Big Apple. A walk through<br />
town can truly feel like crossing the globe.<br />
From the dazzling neon lights of<br />
Chinatown, it’s only a small stroll to the<br />
pizzerias of Nolita, which lie a stone’s<br />
throw away from the hip SoHo and<br />
Greenwich Village neighbourhoods.<br />
There’s no such thing as one New<br />
York. The city’s diversity ensures that<br />
no visit here will ever be the same,<br />
especially considering that, in recent<br />
years, Brooklyn – the massive borough<br />
that breathes “artsy cool” – has become<br />
as popular as Manhattan.<br />
Going beyond the hipster clichés, a<br />
visit to the diverse borough of Queens<br />
will be the perfect mix between an upand-coming,<br />
gentrified neighbourhood<br />
and a multicultural experience (offering<br />
cheap ethnic foods).<br />
The eclectic energy is just as frantic as<br />
the city’s famous jazz scene. Each street<br />
corner has a different flavour to it – a<br />
melody if you will – congregating in tune<br />
with the rhythm of the city. As it used to<br />
be in the metropolises of yore, New York<br />
is about survival of the fittest: a healthy<br />
competition to some, but an exhausting<br />
rat race for others.<br />
Yet, there’s something addictive<br />
about this modern-day Rome, or Cairo.<br />
The Yankee Stadium, the New York<br />
Stock Exchange and Madison Square<br />
Garden are like contemporary coliseums,<br />
and the skyscrapers are the 21st-century<br />
equivalent of the (Great) Pyramids.<br />
Because of the dynamic, movie-set-like<br />
environment, here you can feel western<br />
culture being moulded and shaped from<br />
up-close.<br />
About<br />
Photo book Streets of New York<br />
contains the best, most iconic pictures<br />
that all scream New York. Filled with<br />
perfect moments of the City That<br />
Never Sleeps, it’s the quintessential<br />
book on this great metropolis.<br />
© Streets of New York by MENDO,<br />
published by teNeues.<br />
www.teneues.com, www.mendo.nl<br />
The Manhattan Bridge, Brooklyn<br />
Photo by Pie Aerts
ENTERTAINMENT / 75<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
offers its passengers<br />
complimentary inflight<br />
entertainment.<br />
The programme will<br />
vary in different aircraft<br />
types. Check your<br />
screen to view the<br />
selection on your flight.<br />
Relax & Enjoy<br />
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />
Ready Player One<br />
(read more on the next page)<br />
“You’d be amazed how much<br />
research you can get done when you<br />
have no life whatsoever”<br />
– Wade –<br />
Ready Player One<br />
MOVIE RATINGS<br />
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.
76 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT / 77<br />
Movies<br />
Movies<br />
Ready<br />
Player One<br />
SCI-FI<br />
From Steven Spielberg comes a<br />
sci-fi phenomenon based on Ernest<br />
Cline’s bestselling novel of the<br />
same name.<br />
The year 2045 sees earth and its people<br />
besieged by poverty, overcrowding and<br />
energy crises. Humanity’s redemption<br />
comes in the form of an immersive<br />
online gaming platform: the OASIS.<br />
Created by reclusive genius James Halliday<br />
(Mark Rylance), the OASIS allows<br />
the masses to liberate themselves from<br />
their dystopian reality. However, in<br />
exchange they are shackled by their<br />
addiction to the OASIS.<br />
When Halliday dies, he wills ownership<br />
of the OASIS to whomever discovers<br />
the Easter egg he buried within the<br />
game. In their efforts to find it, thousands<br />
of Gunters (egg hunters) devour every<br />
piece of Halliday trivia available and<br />
become consumed by the 80s culture<br />
Halliday was so fond of. One such person<br />
is teenager Wade Watts (Tye Sheridan).<br />
Watts much prefers the OASIS to his<br />
bleak existence in The Stacks, a shanty<br />
village of trailers piled precariously atop<br />
one another. He is joined by four others,<br />
who teach him that perhaps reality is<br />
not so bad after all.<br />
Join the nostalgic thrill-ride that is<br />
Ready Player One onboard Kenya<br />
Airways now!<br />
The Great Gatsby (2013) ROMANCE<br />
A writer and Wall Street trader, Nick, finds himself drawn to the past and<br />
lifestyle of his millionaire neighbour, Jay Gatsby.<br />
Leonardo Dicaprio. PG-13, 143 mins. Director: Baz Luhrmann<br />
Rampage (<strong>2018</strong>) ADVENTURE<br />
When three different animals become infected with a dangerous pathogen, a<br />
primatologist and a geneticist team up to stop them from destroying Chicago.<br />
Dwayne Johnson, Naomie Harris. PG-13, 107 mins. Director: Brad Peyton<br />
Deadpool 2 (<strong>2018</strong>) ACTION<br />
Mutant mercenary Wade Wilson (aka, Deadpool) brings together a team to<br />
protect a boy of supernatural abilities from the brutal mutant Cable.<br />
Josh Brolin, Ryan Reynolds. R, 119 mins. Director: David Leitch<br />
Life of the Party (<strong>2018</strong>) COMEDY<br />
After her husband abruptly asks for a divorce, a middle-aged mother<br />
returns to college in order to complete her degree.<br />
Melissa McCarthy, Debby Ryan. PG-13, 105 mins. Director: Ben Falcone<br />
Overboard (<strong>2018</strong>) COMEDY<br />
A spoiled, wealthy yacht owner is thrown overboard and becomes the target<br />
of revenge from his mistreated employee.<br />
Anna Faris, Eugenio Derbez. PG-13, 112 Mins. Director: Rob Greenberg<br />
Corpse Bride (2005) ANIMATION<br />
When a shy groom practices his wedding vows in the inadvertent presence of<br />
a deceased woman, she rises from the grave assuming he has married her.<br />
Johnny Depp. PG, 77 mins. Directors: Tim Burton, Mike Johnson<br />
Tye Sheridan, Olivia Cooke. PG-13, 140 mins.<br />
Director: Steven Spielberg<br />
Did you know?<br />
~ Steven Spielberg said that Ready Player One was the third-most<br />
difficult movie he has made, behind Jaws and Saving Private Ryan.<br />
~ OASIS is actually an acronym. It stands for Ontologically<br />
Anthropocentric Sensory Immersive Simulation.<br />
White Fang (<strong>2018</strong>) ANIMATION<br />
A boy befriends a half-breed wolf as he searches for his father, who has<br />
mysteriously gone missing during the Gold Rush.<br />
Rashida Jones, Nick Offerman. PG, 85 mins. Director: Alexandre Espigares<br />
The Hatton Garden Job (2017) ACTION<br />
The Hatton Garden Safe Deposit Company was burgled by four elderly men.<br />
The incident has been called, “the largest burglary in English history”.<br />
Matthew Goode, Joely Richardson. R, 93 mins. Director: Ronnie Thompson<br />
Tomb Raider (<strong>2018</strong>) ADVENTURE<br />
Lara Croft, daughter of a missing adventurer, must push herself beyond her<br />
limits when she discovers the island where her father disappeared.<br />
Alicia Vikander, Walton Goggins. PG-13, 118 mins. Director: Roar Uthaug
78 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT / 79<br />
African Highlights<br />
Bollywood<br />
Film<br />
Picks from<br />
Bollywood<br />
We selected some recent comedy, drama and musical titles<br />
from India’s Hindi-language cinema.<br />
Blood Brothers<br />
Love Gone Sour<br />
Film<br />
Picks from<br />
the continent<br />
We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,<br />
including drama and comedy.<br />
After Dark<br />
The Friend Zone<br />
that he is likely to be overlooked for promotion at work as he is unmarried.<br />
Seun Akindele, Mimi Orjiekwe, Tissy Nnachi. PG-13, 114 mins.<br />
Who Cheats More (2017) COMEDY<br />
An engaged man is devastated to learn that his wife-to-be is only using him<br />
for his money. He decides to play her at her own game.<br />
Van Vicker, Eniola Badmus, Ruth Kadiri. PG-13, 105 mins.<br />
Friends or Foes (2017) DRAMA<br />
A deluded, self-proclaimed celebrity stylist takes advantage of three career<br />
women in the entertainment industry.<br />
Belinda Effah, Daniella Okeke, Dabby Chimere. G, 94 mins.<br />
Connection (Raabta) (2017) DRAMA<br />
In 2017, Shiv and Saira fall for each other and<br />
form an inseparable connection, until Saira<br />
crosses paths with a reincarnated lover who’s<br />
determined to make her his lover again.<br />
Deepika Padukone, Rajkummar Rao, Kriti<br />
Sanon. R, 147 mins. Director: Dinesh Vijan<br />
Munna Michael (2017) MUSICAL<br />
A young man, tries to follow the footsteps of his<br />
idol, The King of Pop, Michael Jackson.<br />
Tiger Shroff, Nidhhi Agerwal, Nawazuddin<br />
Siddiqui. R, 140 mins. Director: Sabir Khan<br />
Raid (<strong>2018</strong>) CRIME<br />
A fearless income-tax officer raids the mansion<br />
of the most powerful man in Lucknow after<br />
someone mysteriously draws his attention to it.<br />
Ajay Devgn, Saurabh Shukla, Ileana D’Cruz. R,<br />
122 mins. Director: Raj Kumar Gupta<br />
Veerey Ki Wedding (<strong>2018</strong>) COMEDY<br />
When the most eligible bachelor in Delhi messes<br />
up his first meeting with the father of his beloved,<br />
he receives no wedding blessing.<br />
Pulkit Samrat, Jimmy Sheirgill, Kriti Kharbanda,<br />
R, 131 mins. Director: Ashu Trikha<br />
Love Gone Sour (<strong>2018</strong>) DRAMA<br />
Indika’s love for Ugomma is fiercely tested when<br />
his friend, the prince, also falls in love with her.<br />
The fallout has dire consequences.<br />
Ngozi Ezeonu, Zulu Adigwe, Chizzy Alichi. R,<br />
137 mins<br />
“I just want<br />
to prove that<br />
Michael lives<br />
forever”<br />
– Munna Michael –<br />
Connection (Raabta)<br />
Blood Brothers (<strong>2018</strong>) DRAMA<br />
A greedy man attempts to usurp family assets after the demise of his brother.<br />
However, his nephew decides to take measures to curb his excesses.<br />
Daniel K Daniel, Chinwe Owoh, Cha Cha Eke Faani. R, Theatrical, 132 mins<br />
Gateman (2017) DRAMA<br />
The heir to a fortune decides to learn about his company where he catches<br />
the attention of an employee, making him a prospective love interest.<br />
Benedict Johnson, Ruth Kadiri. PG-13, 137 mins.<br />
After Dark (<strong>2018</strong>) DRAMA<br />
A ghetto boy invites his friend to stay in his mother’s house, only for his<br />
presence to attract danger and propel his life into a different direction.<br />
Daniel K Daniel, Ebele Okaru Onyiuke. R, Theatrical, 136 mins<br />
The Friend Zone (2017) DRAMA<br />
Two good friends find themselves in a predicament when their emotions get<br />
in the way of their friendship.<br />
Ebube Nwagbo, Onyii Alex. R, Theatrical, 97 mins.<br />
Wife for Rent (2016) ROMANCE<br />
An ambitious young man seeks out a wife to rent when a colleague tells him<br />
Isoken (2017) ROMANCE<br />
Although she has what appears to be a perfect life, Isoken is still unmarried<br />
at 34 which, in a culture obsessed with marriage, is serious cause for<br />
concern.<br />
Dakore Akande, Joseph Benjamin, Marc Rhys. PG-13, 100 mins. Director:<br />
Jadesola Osiberu<br />
You, Me And The Guys (2017) COMEDY<br />
A successful CEO brings home the woman of his dreams, but soon his<br />
jobless housemates grow jealous and try to split them up.<br />
Seun Akindele, Linda Ejiofor, Ifeanyi Kalu. PG-13, 92 mins.<br />
Director: Esther Abah
80 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT / 81<br />
TV<br />
Music Channel Explained: The channel number for<br />
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />
of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,<br />
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />
Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />
Audio<br />
Spotlight on<br />
Bob<br />
Dylan<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Bob Dylan is seen as one of the<br />
biggest American singer-songwriters<br />
of the 20th century.<br />
Super Bowl LII<br />
City Tour New York<br />
“Living legend” Bob Dylan (1941)<br />
became famous in the sixties for his<br />
anti-war and protest songs, where he<br />
criticises politics and the conduct of the<br />
justice system. Five decades later, Dylan<br />
is still popular. In 2016, he became the<br />
first songwriter to win the Nobel Prize<br />
in Literature, for having created, “new<br />
poetic expressions within the great<br />
American song tradition”.<br />
Lasting Legacy The Grinder Urban Natures<br />
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />
biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />
Small Screen<br />
Programmes<br />
& Series<br />
We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />
Comedy<br />
Life In Pieces, Season 1, Episode 1<br />
As the Short family’s lives unfold in four brief stories each week, they try to<br />
savour the moments that add up to what life’s all about.<br />
Crazy Hidden Camera, Season 1, Episodes 2 & 8<br />
Our compilation show made with the best of our non-dialogue candid<br />
camera gags!<br />
The Grinder, Season 1, Episodes 10 & 11<br />
After his hit series, The Grinder, is cancelled, a famous TV lawyer moves<br />
back home and joins his brother at their family’s real-life law firm.<br />
Sports<br />
Super Bowl LII<br />
The <strong>2018</strong> Super Bowl was one of the most sensational season finales in<br />
52 years of history, setting several records.<br />
Pure Outdoor, Season 1, Episode 1<br />
A look at the eco sports that people have now embraced in their leisure time.<br />
The Road To Russia, Season 1, Episode 1<br />
In this episode, we feature Brazil, one of the teams at the FIFA World Cup<br />
<strong>2018</strong>.<br />
Discovery<br />
City Tour New York, New York, US<br />
Home to the Empire State Building, Times Square, Statue of Liberty and<br />
other iconic sites, New York City is a fast-paced, globally influential centre of<br />
art, culture, fashion and finance.<br />
City Tour San Francisco, California, US<br />
San Francisco is known for its hilly landscape, year-round fog, iconic Golden<br />
Gate Bridge, cable cars and colourful Victorian houses.<br />
Lifestyle<br />
Cities Turn Green, Season 1, Episode 3<br />
Portraits of New York’s urban farmers.<br />
Urban Natures, Season 1, Episode 29<br />
Explore the flora and fauna of urban gardens.<br />
News<br />
Lasting Legacy, Season 2, Episode 1<br />
Lasting Legacy goes behind the scenes of some of the most successful family<br />
businesses, to find out how family life and company strategy cross over.<br />
How To Win At Everything, Season 1, Episode 2<br />
This programme explores human physiology and psychology, physics,<br />
technology and mathematics to show how people can “win” in any scenario.<br />
Drama<br />
The Mentalist, Season 7, Episodes 10 & 11<br />
A famous “psychic” outs himself as a fake, and starts working for the California<br />
Bureau of Investigation to find the man who killed his wife and daughter.<br />
The 100, Season 4, Episodes 1 & 2<br />
Ninety-seven years after a devastating nuclear war wiped out almost all life<br />
on Earth, the only known survivors are the residents of twelve space stations<br />
in Earth’s orbit prior to the war.<br />
African Classics<br />
The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />
from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />
Jazz<br />
Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />
the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />
Pop<br />
Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most-loved<br />
pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />
Dance Hall/Reggae<br />
We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />
diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />
Classical<br />
Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />
awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />
Chinese Pop<br />
The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />
of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />
Easy Listening<br />
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />
sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />
Meditation<br />
Sit back, relax and de-stress to the ultimate<br />
meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />
“How many years can<br />
some people exist before they’re<br />
allowed to be free?”<br />
– Bob Dylan –<br />
Blowin’ in the Wind
82 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Kids<br />
Animation<br />
Isle Of<br />
Dogs<br />
What to do when your dog is<br />
banished to Trash Island,<br />
together with all the dogs of<br />
the city?<br />
Atari Kobayashi, a 12-year-old boy and<br />
foster child of the corrupt mayor of<br />
Megasaki City, sets out to find his lost<br />
dog Spots at the island full of garbage.<br />
Atari steals a plane and flies to Trash<br />
Island. Together with five new dog<br />
friends he starts an epic journey, with<br />
many obstacles along the way...<br />
This beautiful stop-motion animated<br />
film was written and directed by Wes<br />
Anderson (Moonrise Kingdom, The<br />
Grand Budapest Hotel).<br />
Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin, Edward Norton.<br />
PG-13, 101 mins. Director: Wes Anderson<br />
Film and TV<br />
The Ones to Watch<br />
These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />
The Looney Tunes Show<br />
Bugs and Daffy, roomies in LA,<br />
are getting up to all sorts of<br />
misadventures.<br />
Season 2, Episode 2<br />
Justice League Action<br />
Seven of the world’s most formidable<br />
heroes join to form one of the most<br />
powerful teams to ever exist.<br />
Season 1, Episodes 2, 3 & 4<br />
Dorothy and the<br />
Wizard of Oz<br />
Dorothy becomes princess of the<br />
Emerald City after defeating the<br />
Wicked Witch.<br />
Season 1, Episode 1<br />
Harry Potter and the<br />
Half-Blood Prince<br />
As Harry Potter begins his sixth<br />
year at Hogwarts, he discovers an<br />
old book and begins to learn more<br />
about Lord Voldemort's dark past.
SAFARI NJEMA / 85<br />
Kenya Airways’ flights between<br />
Nairobi and New York will begin<br />
on 28 October <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
✈ Kenya Airways flies directly to<br />
Cape Town from Nairobi.<br />
Safari Njema<br />
First-Class Cuisine<br />
Kenya Airways has introduced<br />
a revamped catering service<br />
that is designed to elevate<br />
guests’ experience. This is<br />
part of the airline’s strategy to<br />
review and enhance its service<br />
delivery across all touch points<br />
with the aim of making it<br />
more relevant, authentic and<br />
true to its brand proposition.
KQ launched a carbon<br />
offset programme in<br />
2011, the first African<br />
airline to do so.<br />
News<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 87<br />
✈ KQ is working with USAID to prevent<br />
the trafficking of endangered species.<br />
Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian Mikosz presents some of the new catering service<br />
together with top chef Kiran Jethwa, who created the new menus, and two crew members<br />
Kenya Airways’ guests can now enjoy a<br />
memorable experience that is designed to<br />
reflect African authenticity, hospitality<br />
and simplicity.<br />
“We are delighted to launch our new<br />
catering service,” said Group Managing<br />
Director and CEO Kenya Airways<br />
Sebastian Mikosz. “Providing an unforgettable<br />
experience across the entire<br />
guest journey is our core strategic focus.<br />
Introducing this unique offering is<br />
fundamental to our commitment to<br />
delighting our customers at every touch<br />
point. We feel very excited when a customer<br />
has a positive experience with us.”<br />
Under the new service, the airline has<br />
introduced a culinary experience on its<br />
flights above seven hours that will see the<br />
best African chefs develop onboard<br />
menus. To begin with, Kenya Airways has<br />
partnered with the renowned Kenya-born<br />
chef, Kiran Jethwa, to offer its passengers<br />
an exquisite fusion of culture with Kenyan<br />
ingredients and a touch of African<br />
flavours. “Collaborating with Kenya<br />
Airways has been an amazing experience.<br />
It’s a privilege to be the first chef to<br />
reinvent our national carrier’s onboard<br />
menu,” said Jethwa.<br />
“Our crew has been specially trained by<br />
Chef Kiran to master the art of plating<br />
up business-class dishes,” said Chief<br />
Commercial Officer Kenya Airways<br />
Vincent Coste.”<br />
This renewed service will enable our<br />
guests to experience a wide variety<br />
delicacies and cuisine, accompanied by<br />
personalised service.” Other enhancements<br />
include signature welcome drinks<br />
in business class, which have been<br />
inspired by a tantalising combination of<br />
herbs, indigenous fruits and Kenya’s best<br />
export, tea.<br />
Similarly, environmentally friendly and<br />
easy-to-take-away meal boxes, and a<br />
basket service, have been introduced on<br />
short-sector flights. The baskets have<br />
been hand-woven by various women’s<br />
groups across Africa in line with the airline’s<br />
mission, “sustainable development<br />
in Africa”.<br />
The ease, simplicity and efficiency of these<br />
new services enable the crew to increase<br />
their level of engagement with guests,<br />
supporting Kenya Airways’ positioning as<br />
a customer-centric carrier championing<br />
African culture. The airline is steadily<br />
enhancing its service delivery and shall<br />
unveil new offerings in due course.
88 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Want to know the carbon<br />
emission of your flight?<br />
Visit climatecare.org<br />
and click on the<br />
carbon calculator.<br />
News<br />
✈ Kenya Airways now flies to<br />
Paris more often, with six direct<br />
flights each week.<br />
JKIA expansion<br />
Airport Upgraded<br />
After carrying out a series of assessment audits,<br />
the US Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has<br />
granted Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)<br />
Category One status, a prerequisite for Kenya<br />
Airways’ forthcoming direct flights between Nairobi<br />
and New York. This is also a major milestone in<br />
the growth and development of civil aviation in<br />
Kenya, East Africa and the rest of Africa.<br />
Based on an FAA assessment of the safety oversight<br />
provided by Kenya Civil Aviation Authority, the rating also<br />
shows Kenya’s compliance with International Civil Aviation<br />
Organisation (ICAO) standards.<br />
Over the last few months, The Ministry of Transport,<br />
Housing and Urban Development has led the implemention<br />
of a raft of recommendations given by the US government<br />
to enhance security, among them separation of passenger<br />
arrival and departure terminals, clearing the flight path and<br />
fencing off the airport.<br />
“We are indeed delighted that JKIA has been granted the<br />
Last Point of Departure status. This will now permit Kenya<br />
Airways to fly direct non-stop to the John F. Kennedy International<br />
Airport as scheduled on October 28, <strong>2018</strong>,” said<br />
Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian<br />
Mikosz. He added that the decision and confidence bestowed<br />
upon Kenya by the US Government was a major milestone to<br />
the growth and development of the aviation industry in Kenya<br />
and the world.<br />
To attain and maintain the top rating, a country must<br />
demonstrate compliance with the safety standards as adopted<br />
and contained in ICAO documents – a UN specialised<br />
agency for aviation that establishes international standards<br />
and recommended practices for aircraft operations and<br />
maintenance.<br />
“JKIA’s Last Point of<br />
Departure status permits<br />
us to begin flying directly<br />
to the US on 28 October”<br />
– Sebastian Mikosz –<br />
Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways<br />
Creating jobs<br />
Environmental<br />
Conservation<br />
With Africa’s population rapidly increasing, there is a<br />
need to increase access to decent jobs. Wildlife Works,<br />
Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting partner, has been<br />
working in the Kasigau Corridor REDD+ Project to<br />
help local communities manage their transition away<br />
from forest destruction and towards sustainable<br />
economic development by utilising job creation as<br />
a core conservation strategy.<br />
Wildlife Works was formed with a simple idea that if you<br />
want wildlife to survive, you have to balance their needs with<br />
the work needs of the local people who share the same environment.<br />
By conserving forests, Wildlife Works receives the<br />
emissions reduction as carbon credits. Through this programme,<br />
over 300 local people have been employed as wildlife rangers,<br />
horticulturalists, seamstresses, foresters, carpenters, construction<br />
workers, drivers, mechanics and administrative personnel.<br />
~ The essence of Wildlife Works’ REDD+ conservation programme is<br />
to create jobs, which remains a priority in rural Kenya. Through job<br />
creation, Wildlife Works is providing a real direct benefit to locals in the<br />
project area.
How many Miles did you<br />
earn while flying to your<br />
current destination? Find out<br />
online with the Flying Blue<br />
Miles Calculator.<br />
Flying Blue<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 91<br />
✈ There are new discounted award<br />
tickets, or Promo Awards, available<br />
every month, saving you up<br />
to 50 percent on Award Miles.<br />
Membership levels<br />
Redeem<br />
Your<br />
Miles!<br />
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />
Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or<br />
a SkyTeam partner.You can redeem your Miles to fly with<br />
KQ-operated flights or upgrade your seats to Business Class.<br />
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying<br />
flight you take, you earn Level Miles. When you first enrol, you will be<br />
awarded Ivory status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and ultimately<br />
Platinum. The more you travel with KQ or one of our partner airlines,<br />
the higher your level becomes, which results in you earning more Award<br />
Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />
Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by<br />
Kenya Airways or our SkyTeam partner airlines. Your accumulated<br />
Award Miles remain valid for 20 months, which can be extended every<br />
time you fly with Kenya Airways or one of our SkyTeam partners, if you<br />
fly at least once every 20 months. The total number of Miles credited to<br />
your account depends on the distance you have flown and travel class<br />
that you have chosen.<br />
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />
1<br />
Exchange<br />
Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />
Business Class.<br />
2<br />
Check<br />
Your choice of destination determines the<br />
number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So<br />
please check if you have sufficient Miles for your<br />
choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is<br />
advisable to have flexible date options in case your<br />
initial choice is not available.<br />
3<br />
Redeem<br />
Once you have made your choice, you can<br />
redeem your Award Miles in several ways:<br />
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in<br />
Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />
or +254 711 024747.<br />
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to<br />
Flying Blue and then Award Booking.<br />
C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to Spend Miles.<br />
For further information, you can always contact us<br />
at kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />
4<br />
Tax<br />
Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />
will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so<br />
via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any<br />
Kenya Airways office.<br />
5<br />
Easy Does It<br />
Five steps to make<br />
the most of your Miles.<br />
Ticket<br />
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />
will be sent to you by email.<br />
~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the<br />
event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex<br />
Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the<br />
Award Miles.<br />
~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business<br />
Class when you have already purchased an Economy<br />
Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for<br />
all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in<br />
Business Class.
SkyTeam operates more than<br />
17,000 departures a day to 1,074<br />
destinations in 177 countries, and<br />
offers SkyTeam members 600+<br />
lounges in airports worldwide.<br />
SkyTeam<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 93<br />
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a<br />
major airline alliance that consists of 20<br />
carriers from 5 continents.<br />
Teamwork<br />
We’re Connected<br />
Over the last two decades, it’s been<br />
SkyTeam’s mission to create the most<br />
seamless travel experience possible across<br />
an extensive global network. The alliance<br />
was founded to help foster collaboration<br />
between 20 member airlines and, in turn,<br />
offer more benefits and incentives to<br />
passengers.<br />
Capturing the essence of this mission,<br />
SkyTeam has launched a new advertising<br />
campaign that celebrates the teamwork<br />
between its members.<br />
The campaign features flight attendants<br />
from each airline who act as ambassadors.<br />
They demonstrate that, by working<br />
together, SkyTeam and its members can<br />
get you to 1,000+ destinations worldwide<br />
faster and more efficiently than ever before.<br />
Together, we offer a wider range of<br />
destinations to choose from, a larger set<br />
of loyalty benefits than any other alliance,<br />
the most extensive fast-track services<br />
worldwide, and a broader choice of lounges<br />
in which to relax.<br />
Here are some behind-the-scenes snaps<br />
from the shoot, but to view the full set of<br />
finished videos, head to skyteam.com.
94 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 95<br />
Global Network<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
will begin flying<br />
to JFK Airport in<br />
New York from<br />
Nairobi’s Jomo<br />
Kenyatta International<br />
Airport in October.<br />
NEW YORK<br />
London<br />
GREAT-BRITAIN<br />
THE NETHERLANDS<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Paris<br />
FRANCE<br />
Kenya Airways Fleet<br />
Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />
CHINA<br />
SENEGAL<br />
Dakar<br />
Bamako<br />
Freetown<br />
SIERRA LEONE<br />
Monrovia<br />
LIBERIA<br />
Dubai<br />
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />
SUDAN<br />
Khartoum<br />
MALI<br />
Djibouti<br />
DJIBOUTI<br />
Addis<br />
Ababa<br />
COTE<br />
BENIN<br />
NIGERIA<br />
D'IVOIRE<br />
GHANA<br />
Lagos<br />
CENTRAL<br />
SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA<br />
Abidjan Accra<br />
CAMEROON AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />
Cotonou<br />
Juba<br />
Douala<br />
Yaoundé<br />
Bangui<br />
UGANDA<br />
KENYA<br />
Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu<br />
Kigali<br />
NAIROBI<br />
RWANDA<br />
Brazzaville<br />
DEMOCRATIC<br />
REPUBLIC OF<br />
Bujumbura<br />
Kilimanjaro<br />
Mombasa<br />
THE CONGO BURUNDI<br />
Mahé<br />
Kinshasa<br />
TANZANIA<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
Luanda<br />
Moroni/COMOROS<br />
Lubumbashi<br />
ANGOLA<br />
MALAWI<br />
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />
Ndola<br />
Lilongwe<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
Lusaka<br />
Blantyre<br />
Nampula<br />
Livingstone<br />
Victoria Harare<br />
Falls<br />
Antananarivo<br />
MAURITIUS<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Mumbai<br />
INDIA<br />
Bangkok<br />
THAILAND<br />
Guangzhou<br />
Boeing 737-800<br />
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />
Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />
Johannesburg<br />
SOUTH<br />
AFRICA<br />
Cape Town<br />
Maputo<br />
Embraer 190<br />
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m
96 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
SAFARI HABARI NJEMA //97<br />
The Nairobi National Park<br />
stopover package allows guests<br />
travelling on flight KQ101 from<br />
London Heathrow to enjoy a<br />
wildlife tour during their transit.<br />
Welcome to Kenya<br />
✈ Passengers travelling in<br />
a group of at least ten<br />
(economy cabin) or five<br />
(business cabin), can<br />
request for a group fare.<br />
SOUTH-<br />
SUD A N<br />
E T HIOPIA<br />
Practical tips<br />
Getty Images<br />
Getting around<br />
On Arrival<br />
TO THE CITY<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />
VISA<br />
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />
the moment of entry.<br />
Health<br />
Emergency services<br />
Dial 999. Note that<br />
ambulance services are<br />
mostly private. Services<br />
include: St Johns<br />
Ambulance +254 72 161<br />
1555 or Kenya Red<br />
Cross Ambulance<br />
+254 71 771 4938.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Nairobi and Mombasa<br />
have good hospitals.<br />
Medical expenses<br />
Make sure you have<br />
adequate travel health<br />
insurance and accessible<br />
funds to cover the cost of<br />
any medical treatment.<br />
Consultations and<br />
treatments will have to<br />
be paid for at the time,<br />
and the costs claimed<br />
back later.<br />
General<br />
Voltage<br />
240 volts AC, using<br />
three-square-pin,<br />
13-amp-type plugs.<br />
Security<br />
It is advisable not to walk<br />
alone in isolated areas<br />
in towns or on beaches,<br />
particularly after dark.<br />
Tipping<br />
Tips are appreciated. Most<br />
hotels/restaurants add a<br />
10 percent service charge.<br />
Water<br />
It is wise to drink or use<br />
only boiled or bottled water,<br />
and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />
Self-drive<br />
Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />
side of the road, and<br />
most cars are right-hand<br />
drive. A current driving<br />
licence with photograph is<br />
accepted for up to a threemonth<br />
stay.<br />
Public transport<br />
Nairobi is the only city with<br />
an effective municipal bus<br />
What & How<br />
service. Local (private)<br />
matatus are the main<br />
means of getting around.<br />
Taxi service Uber operates<br />
in Nairobi and Mombasa.<br />
Photography<br />
Taking photographs of<br />
official buildings, including<br />
embassies, can lead to<br />
detention. Photography is<br />
also prohibited at airports.<br />
Embassies & consulates<br />
All embassies are<br />
located in Nairobi.<br />
ID<br />
You must carry a valid form<br />
of ID with you at all times.<br />
Post office<br />
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />
Telephone/internet<br />
Phone cards may be<br />
bought from post offices<br />
or international call<br />
offices. Emails can be sent<br />
from most hotels.<br />
Money matters<br />
Currency<br />
Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />
Currency regulations<br />
There are no restrictions on<br />
the movement of currency<br />
into or out of Kenya for<br />
currency transactions.<br />
Banking<br />
Banks are generally open<br />
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays;<br />
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />
Saturdays. Banks in<br />
coastal towns open<br />
and close half an hour<br />
earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />
international VISA cards.<br />
Credit cards<br />
Visa and MasterCard are<br />
widely accepted.<br />
Hotel bill payment<br />
Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />
convertible currency.<br />
Most hotels also accept<br />
credit cards.<br />
Gulu<br />
UGA N D A<br />
Lokichokio<br />
Sibiloi<br />
Central<br />
National<br />
Songot 1755 m Island<br />
Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Namoratunga<br />
Muruasigar<br />
Stones<br />
2149 m<br />
LAKE<br />
TURKANA<br />
Lodwar<br />
Nasolot<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Maralal<br />
Saiwa<br />
National<br />
Matthew’s Peak<br />
Swamp<br />
Sanctuary<br />
2375 m<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Kaisungua<br />
Maralal<br />
Reserve<br />
Kitale<br />
3167 m<br />
Samburu<br />
National<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
Kerio Valley<br />
Reserve<br />
Shaba National<br />
4322 m<br />
National Reserve<br />
Reserve<br />
ELDORET<br />
Archer’s Post<br />
LAKE BARING O<br />
Kakamega<br />
Buffalo Springs<br />
Forest Reserve<br />
Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />
National<br />
Meru<br />
Reserve<br />
National Reserve<br />
National<br />
Kakamega<br />
Park<br />
Ndere Island<br />
Nanyuki<br />
National Park<br />
KISUMU<br />
Meru<br />
Mt Londiani<br />
Rusinga Island<br />
Kericho<br />
3000 m<br />
North<br />
Nakuru<br />
Mt Kenya<br />
Kitu<br />
Lake Nakuru<br />
5199 m<br />
National<br />
Mfangango<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Nyerri<br />
Embu<br />
Reserve<br />
Island<br />
Kisii<br />
Muranga’a Mwea<br />
Ruma<br />
Hell’s Gate<br />
National<br />
LAKE<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
VICTORIA<br />
Longonot National Park<br />
Thika<br />
Migori<br />
Narok<br />
NAIROBI<br />
Oi Donyo National Park<br />
Masai Mara<br />
Nairobi<br />
National Reserve<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Chantal van Wessel<br />
TA NZANIA<br />
South<br />
Turkana<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
South<br />
Island<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
LAKE<br />
MAGADI<br />
Shompole<br />
Conservancy<br />
CHALBI DESERT<br />
Loiyangalani<br />
Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />
OFFICES & AGENTS<br />
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />
Kajiado<br />
West<br />
Chyulu Game<br />
Conservation<br />
Area<br />
Amboseli<br />
National Park<br />
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Losai<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Marsabit<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Tsavo West<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
K ENYA<br />
Tsavo<br />
East<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Voi<br />
Kora<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Moyale<br />
Rahole<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Mwaluganje<br />
Elephant<br />
Sanctuary<br />
Shimba Hills<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Garissa<br />
MOMBASA<br />
Wajir<br />
Tana River<br />
Primate National<br />
Reserve<br />
Malka Mari<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Arabuko<br />
Malindi Marine<br />
Sokoke<br />
National Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Malindi<br />
Watamu Marine<br />
National Park<br />
Diani<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Boni<br />
National<br />
Arawale Reserve<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Dodori<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
SOMALIA<br />
INDIAN<br />
OCEAN<br />
100 km
Wangari Maathai, the founder of<br />
Kenya’s Green Belt Movement, an<br />
environmental group, became the<br />
first African woman to win the Nobel<br />
Peace Prize in 2004.<br />
Magical Kenya<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 99<br />
✈ Find a full list of Kenya’s<br />
eco-certified hotels and camps at<br />
ecotourismkenya.org/facility.php<br />
Getty Images<br />
The Lake Turkana Festival.<br />
Kenya’s cultural splendour<br />
Festivals Showcase Kenya<br />
Part of a wealth of cultural attractions<br />
that are available across<br />
the country, Kenya’s vibrant and<br />
exciting festivals present great<br />
opportunities to connect with locals<br />
and experience the country’s<br />
unique cultures.<br />
One such festival is the Maralal International<br />
Camel Derby, which takes place<br />
every year in August to promote the<br />
endowment of Samburu County in<br />
different aspects of tourism, ranging<br />
from northern Kenya’s unique wildlife –<br />
such as the blue necked ostrich and the<br />
Grevy’s zebra – to its exciting sports and<br />
cultural-tourism offering. The event,<br />
which is the only one of its kind in the<br />
world, attracts participation from far and<br />
wide, both locally and internationally. It’s<br />
also a great social occasion that offers a<br />
chance to experience the culture, warmth,<br />
and adventures of the Samburu people.<br />
Still up north, on the southeastern tip of<br />
Lake Turkana, is another unique cultural<br />
event: the annual Lake Turkana Festival,<br />
which takes place in June in Loiyangalani<br />
town on the shores of the Jade Sea. The<br />
event is a showcase of the unique cultural<br />
diversity of the numerous ethnic communities<br />
in Marsabit County through song<br />
and dance.<br />
Another long-running cultural festival<br />
one should consider attending is the<br />
Lamu Cultural Festival, which began in<br />
2001. The three-day festival takes place in<br />
November and is meant to give visitors a<br />
taste of the rich cultural life of the Lamu<br />
– and the surrounding islands – as part of<br />
the larger culture of the Swahili people<br />
who live along Kenya’s coast. The festival’s<br />
activities include dhow-sailing<br />
races, donkey races, traditional henna<br />
paintings, traditional artisan craft-making<br />
and competitive games of bao, which<br />
is regarded as one of the oldest games,<br />
having been played in the region for<br />
thousands of years.<br />
If you would like to explore the culture<br />
of the people living along Lake Victoria,<br />
visit Rusinga Island for the annual<br />
Rusinga Festival, which takes place in<br />
just before Christmas every year. Here,<br />
you will experience the music, food, art<br />
and cultural sports of the Suba people.<br />
In Western Kenya, one can watch weekly<br />
bullfights that pit bulls – representing<br />
respective villages or families – against<br />
each other. The winning bull not only<br />
brings honour to its owner, it brings<br />
entire villages to a standstill in song and<br />
dance; it’s a spectacle worth watching.<br />
Don’t take our word for it. Come and live<br />
the magic of Kenya’s cultural diversity!
SAFARI NJEMA / 101<br />
Cargo<br />
Text: Ben Clark Image: Shutterstock<br />
Pharmaceuticals<br />
Cool Under Pressure<br />
Transporting pharmaceuticals is<br />
highly specialised and requires<br />
strict adherence to handling rules.<br />
Because proper management is<br />
embedded within its practice,<br />
Kenya Airways (KQ) has a solid<br />
basis for special-cargo growth.<br />
Despite the challenges posed by high<br />
temperatures in Africa and varying<br />
infrastructure at African airports,<br />
maintenance of the cold chain – the<br />
temperature-controlled supply chain –<br />
is key to KQ’s service. Pharmaceuticals<br />
often require a 2-8°C range. However,<br />
temperature is not the only factor; air<br />
quality is also important. The carbon<br />
dioxide, oxygen and humidity levels all<br />
affect this cargo, which makes it the most<br />
complicated cold chain to operate. KQ’s<br />
handling facilities are fitted with coldstorage<br />
features that can manage 2-25°C<br />
shipments while maintaining air quality.<br />
In 2013, the International Air Transport<br />
Association (IATA) created the Center<br />
of Excellence for Independent Validators<br />
(CEIV) to improve air-cargo standards<br />
for pharmaceuticals across the board.<br />
CEIV is a resource that airlines can use<br />
to gain new certification. KQ is leading<br />
the way. “We’re looking to expand our<br />
special-cargo product range, so meeting<br />
these new requirements is essential,” says<br />
Acting General Manager of Cargo Peter<br />
Musola. “We’ve already hosted the first<br />
CEIV workshop in Africa, and together<br />
with pharmaceutical industry experts,<br />
we’re identifying certification gaps in our<br />
processes to comply even further with<br />
Good Distribution Practice.”
102 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
KQ won the Best<br />
Business Class in<br />
Africa for five years<br />
in a row from World<br />
Travel Awards.<br />
Get Comfortable<br />
✈ KQ received an International<br />
Safety Award in 2016 and 2017<br />
from the British Safety Council.<br />
What you need to know<br />
Flight Mode<br />
Safety<br />
Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />
and mobile phones may not be used during<br />
take-off and landing.<br />
Hand luggage<br />
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />
will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />
meal and take some gentle exercise<br />
before your flight.<br />
Travel<br />
On The Move<br />
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />
3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />
up and walking in the aisle when<br />
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />
shoulders and neck.<br />
4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />
“To get lost is to<br />
learn the way”<br />
– African proverb –<br />
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />
drink plenty of water and moderate<br />
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />
5 When travelling across time zones<br />
your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />
some time to adjust to new night and<br />
day cycles when you arrive.<br />
6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />
possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />
body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />
Seat adjustments<br />
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />
landing.<br />
Infants<br />
Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />
Inflight service<br />
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />
are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />
spirits and soft drinks.<br />
Entertainment<br />
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />
movies and music is available on our long- and<br />
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />
guide in Msafiri.<br />
Take-off<br />
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />
a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />
during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />
Landing<br />
After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />
to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />
engines are off and the doors are open.