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ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 9<br />

“We feel genuinely excited when<br />

guests have positive experiences<br />

flying with Kenya Airways”<br />

Getty images<br />

Msafiri October <strong>2018</strong> edition 150<br />

kenya-airways.com<br />

➔<br />

October <strong>2018</strong><br />

City of<br />

Angels<br />

A journey through<br />

Bangkok<br />

In The Saddle<br />

Cyclists heading for glory<br />

Streets of<br />

New York<br />

Modern photos<br />

of the Big Apple<br />

to Take<br />

Home!<br />

Kenya Airways World<br />

Travel Awards<br />

• Voted Africa’s Leading Airline:<br />

2016, 2017<br />

• Voted Africa’s Leading Airline, Business<br />

Class: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017<br />

Dear guests,<br />

We have just launched a new catering<br />

service, another major step in our<br />

strategy to provide an unforgettable<br />

experience throughout your journey<br />

with us, while making our service more<br />

authentic, relevant and true to our<br />

brand identity. Flights of seven hours or<br />

more now have a menu created by one<br />

of Africa’s best chefs. Kiran Jethwa, the<br />

renowned Kenya-born chef, has set the<br />

first new menu: an exquisite fusion of<br />

African ingredients. He has also trained<br />

our crew at our state-of-the-art Pride<br />

Center. In addition, special welcome<br />

drinks – created by Jethwa – containing<br />

herbs, indigenous fruits and tea are<br />

distributed in business class. On shorter<br />

flights, guests now receive new meal<br />

boxes that are easy to take with them.<br />

Whichever new catering service you are<br />

experiencing today, we hope that it adds<br />

to your enjoyment. We feel genuinely<br />

excited when guests have positive experiences<br />

flying with Kenya Airways.<br />

This month, we take you on a journey<br />

through Ethiopia’s picturesque Amhara<br />

region, which is famous for the<br />

excavated churches of Lalibela, and<br />

seems to have inspired Middle-earth in<br />

Tolkien’s Lord of The Rings trilogy. We<br />

take you from the Italian-influenced<br />

capital – Addis Ababa – to Lalibela,<br />

Gondar and on to Bahir Dar, Amhara’s<br />

capital.<br />

Our latest people story focuses on a<br />

group of ambitious African cyclists who<br />

are attempting to emulate the successes<br />

of Kenya-born, four-time Tour de<br />

France champion Chris Froome. Being<br />

away from the key professional-cycling<br />

centres in Europe, these cyclists need to<br />

fight harder for the biggest prize in cycling,<br />

and they’re doing so in ways that<br />

are truly inspiring.<br />

Business is booming in Kenya, especially<br />

in Nairobi, which has become the<br />

Africa hub for many large international<br />

corporations. Our forthcoming direct<br />

flights between Nairobi and New York<br />

– beginning on 28 October – promise to<br />

increase this influx of foreign companies<br />

operating within our borders. Because<br />

of this, our new business story looks at<br />

the Meetings, Incentives, Conferences<br />

and Exhibitions (MICE) industry, which<br />

is proliferating in Kenya, adding another<br />

dimension to the nation’s growing<br />

business sector.<br />

Thank you most sincerely for flying<br />

with Kenya Airways.<br />

I wish you all an enjoyable flight.<br />

Sebastian Mikosz<br />

Group Managing Director and CEO<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

Image: Jeroen van Loon


CONTENTS / 11<br />

Travel & Nature<br />

28 Fantasy Land<br />

Ethiopia’s Amhara region<br />

50 Return Ticket<br />

The Great Migration<br />

52 Vanilla Islands<br />

At a glance<br />

58 Guess And Win<br />

Travel quiz<br />

60 City of Angels<br />

A journey through Bangkok<br />

46<br />

60<br />

Arts & Culture<br />

14 High Five<br />

The Empire State Building<br />

17 Habari<br />

Kenya & the world<br />

38 In The Saddle<br />

Cyclists heading for glory<br />

68 Streets of New York<br />

Modern photos of the Big Apple<br />

Publisher Kenya Airways | Head of Marketing and Customer Experience Jacquie Muhati Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge<br />

Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Irene<br />

Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans<br />

Koedijker Contributors Pie Aerts, Cedric Arnold, Joost Bastmeijer, Jackson Biko, Bartjan Bouman, Andrea Dijkstra, Mark Eveleigh, Philip Lee Harvey, Annemarie Hoeve, Saskia Houttuin,<br />

Desiree Hoving, Patrick Janelle, Ken Kagicha, Kenyan Riders Downunder, Annette Lavrijsen, Jeroen van Loon, Ivan Meneses, Catherine Ngarachu, Michael Poliza, Alessio Radaelli,<br />

Cynthia Schippers, Peter Steward, Peter Usher, Eline Visscher, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Graham Willgoss, Michael G. Young Lithography Ready4Print<br />

Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen


12 / CONTENTS<br />

Fly Guide<br />

28<br />

Business<br />

75 Highlights<br />

Inflight entertainment guide<br />

85 Safari Njema<br />

News & service<br />

91 Flying Blue News<br />

93 SkyTeam News<br />

94 Route Maps<br />

99 Magical Kenya<br />

101 Cargo<br />

102 Get Comfortable<br />

38<br />

44 Aircraft Facts<br />

The landing gear<br />

46 Liftoff<br />

Africa’s space programme<br />

54 Of Mice And Men<br />

Kenya’s conference industry<br />

66 Book Review<br />

Build an A-Team<br />

Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.<br />

com Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734<br />

271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Media Nederland CV, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website hearst.nl/hearst-create<br />

No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />

responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and<br />

at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.<br />

CRE A T E


14 / NEW YORK / Empire State Building<br />

HIGHLIGHT / 15<br />

High Five<br />

Built on Fifth Avenue in 1931,<br />

the Empire State Building<br />

was named after the moniker<br />

for New York State.<br />

This Art Deco skyscraper was erected<br />

on the site of the first Waldorf-Astoria<br />

hotel, which was knocked down to make<br />

room for it. The Empire State Building is<br />

so big that it has its own postcode. At<br />

381-m tall, it was the tallest building in<br />

the world for almost 40 years until the<br />

North Tower of the World Trade Center<br />

went up in 1970.<br />

The idea for the Empire State Building<br />

was conceived during the Roaring<br />

Twenties, when the US economy was at<br />

its peak and ambition in the construction<br />

industry was just as high as the plans<br />

tabled for what the media called, the<br />

“race into the sky”; a competition<br />

between 40 Wall Street, the Chrysler<br />

Building and the Empire State Building,<br />

which was built last but won the “race”.<br />

Photographer Lewis Hine famously<br />

captured the death-defying construction<br />

by steelworkers as they hung from the<br />

side of the building at great heights<br />

without safety equipment. While taking<br />

pictures of the workers, Hine also got<br />

himself into precarious positions; a feat<br />

that, arguably, remained unsurpassed<br />

until the recent invention of the “selfie”.<br />

Kenya Airways will begin flying to JFK Airport<br />

in New York from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta<br />

International Airport on 28 October.<br />

text: Ben Clark image: Getty Images


150<br />

The shortest border<br />

in the world is<br />

between Botswana<br />

and Zambia. It’s only<br />

150-m long.<br />

Habari<br />

HABARI / 17<br />

Two of Africa’s smallest countries,<br />

eSwatini and Lesotho, are located<br />

within Southern Africa.<br />

Illustrations<br />

Colourful Doodles<br />

Monica Obaga is a Kenyan illustrator<br />

and graphic designer who’s currently<br />

based in Los Angeles, US. After doodling<br />

a lot as a child, Monica picked up<br />

drawing again four years ago. Taking<br />

inspiration from her childhood in Kenya,<br />

she now publishes her colourful work<br />

on Instagram, where she’s followed by<br />

over 1,200 people. @monicaobaga


The hippopotamus is Africa’s<br />

deadliest animal; it kills more<br />

people on the continent than<br />

crocodiles and lions combined.<br />

Golden oldie<br />

Fairmont The<br />

Norfolk<br />

Nairobi<br />

HABARI /19<br />

There are more French speakers<br />

in Africa than in France.<br />

Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko<br />

Meeting place<br />

Safari Park Hotel<br />

The Safari Park Hotel, an oasis<br />

in the heart of Nairobi, has<br />

beautiful gardens and water<br />

features. It’s one of the East<br />

Africa’s foremost leisure and<br />

conference venues, with 167<br />

deluxe rooms and 36 suites<br />

– with private balconies – and a<br />

range of indoor, outdoor and<br />

banqueting facilities for up to<br />

5,000 people. Its five international<br />

restaurants, offer some of<br />

the finest dining in Nairobi.<br />

Leisure facilities include the<br />

Paradise Casino, the Cats Club<br />

discotheque, the Piano Bar and<br />

the ultra-modern Safari Fitness<br />

Centre.<br />

~ safaripark-hotel.com<br />

Nairobi grew around this iconic<br />

hotel, which dates back to 1904.<br />

Deals have been struck on its<br />

veranda ever since. It’s been a<br />

home away from home for<br />

distinguished travellers during<br />

the colonial period, and savvy<br />

businessmen of modern times.<br />

It’s got that old-world charm<br />

and elegant contemporary<br />

design. It has 27 luxurious<br />

suites and 143 rooms, which<br />

are set around tranquil tropical<br />

gardens, a heated outdoor<br />

swimming pool and a health<br />

club and spa.<br />

~ fairmont.com<br />

“My heritage<br />

naturally trickles<br />

into my work<br />

and every piece<br />

I create”<br />

– Zambian fashion designer Kapasa Musonda –<br />

Indian food<br />

Mayura Restaurant<br />

Some people will put up with grubby restaurants because they<br />

serve great food. Thankfully, there are some restaurants that<br />

score highly for food and ambience. Mayura, a fantastic Indian<br />

restaurant, is one of them. It’s got a large, tasteful Indian-heavy<br />

decor (thankfully not gaudy) with a large, tastefully done lounge<br />

outside, and a slightly more formal seating inside that’s great for<br />

business meetings. The food is so delicious, you’re tempted to call<br />

it, “finger-licking good”.<br />

~ themayura.com<br />

A bit of everything<br />

Artcaffé,<br />

Nairobi<br />

Artcaffé is a café, yes. People<br />

gather and sit for coffee in a<br />

modern set-up. It’s the first<br />

truly European model of<br />

café/bakery (if you’re to believe<br />

them). They have freshly<br />

baked artisan bread and<br />

pastries, and they brew real<br />

Kenyan coffee. But they’re<br />

also a lifestyle brand, and a<br />

buzzing social hub in the<br />

metropolis. Because Artcaffé<br />

is open until midnight, it’s<br />

also a meeting place for their<br />

famous signature cocktails.<br />

~ artcaffe.co.ke<br />

Clubbing<br />

40Forty Lounge<br />

It’s a club in Westlands, which<br />

is a “happening” area as the<br />

youth would say. It’s on Westlands<br />

Road and it has limited<br />

parking spaces, but that isn’t<br />

your concern because you will<br />

be rocking up in an Uber.<br />

You’ll take the elevator to the<br />

eighth floor, where you’ll enter<br />

the 40Forty Lounge, which is<br />

open until dawn. The view is<br />

amazing. The excellent Boda<br />

Boda Band plays on Tuesdays.<br />

~ @Official40forty


The largest church in the world,<br />

Basilica of Our Lady of Peace of<br />

Yamoussoukro, is in Côte d’Ivoire<br />

and resembles Rome’s Saint<br />

Peter’s Basilica.<br />

Marathon<br />

Running The Five Boroughs<br />

Will you be the next Geoffrey Kamworor, the Kenyan<br />

athlete who won last year’s New York City Marathon?<br />

Or are you cheering for friends and family?<br />

With Kenya Airways, from 28 October, you will be<br />

able to fly direct to the Big Apple. This year’s New<br />

York City Marathon will be held on 4 November,<br />

and runs through all five of the city’s boroughs:<br />

Staten Island, Brooklyn, Queens, The Bronx, and<br />

Manhattan, where it enters the iconic Central Park.<br />

What’s On<br />

HABARI / 21<br />

Africa covers approximately 20 percent<br />

of our planet’s land mass and 6 percent<br />

of its total surface.<br />

~ tcsnycmarathon.org<br />

Habari text: Joost Bastmeijer and Saskia Houttuin<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Motor sport<br />

Great Rift Rally<br />

A 45-km drive south of Nairobi brings you to<br />

Champagne Ridge, a crest that offers impressive<br />

views over the adjacent Great Rift Valley. The<br />

mountainous Kajiado area also houses the Champagne<br />

Rally Park and their Champagne 4x4 Challenge,<br />

a spectacular event for both spectators and<br />

competitors. The final <strong>2018</strong> edition will be held<br />

from 24-25 November. On-site camping is possible.<br />

~ champagnepark.co.ke<br />

Q&A<br />

Kapasa Musonda<br />

Mangishi Doll is an Afro-eclectic clothing line from Zambia<br />

that is inspired by unique style and bold prints. Msafiri chats<br />

with founder Kapasa Musonda.<br />

Where do you get your materials?<br />

I spend hours at a time in the marketplaces sourcing different Chitenge (aka<br />

Ankara) fabrics. I grew up seeing these prints on the streets of Zambia. My<br />

heritage naturally trickles into my work and every piece I create.<br />

What does Mangishi mean in Nyanja?<br />

Mangishi is a form of craft using twisted wire. The most popular items<br />

created using this technique are toy cars. I founded an accessory line<br />

called Mangishi Love, which inspired the current brand, Mangishi Doll.<br />

What does the future have in store?<br />

We’re here to stay. We’re constantly creating different and unique pieces<br />

that will resonate with different people and different cultures all over the<br />

world. We will launch our new line, The MDIndividualist, this Autumn.<br />

~ mangishidoll.co


The Ngwenya Mine is<br />

considered to be the world’s<br />

oldest. Thousands of years<br />

ago, red ochre was extracted.<br />

Now, iron ore is mined here.<br />

Arts & Culture<br />

HABARI / 23<br />

The shortest distance between Africa<br />

and Europe is only 14.3 km.<br />

Bucket list<br />

African Juices You Must Try<br />

Health freaks travelling to Africa take<br />

note: these are our favourite healthy fruit<br />

juices from the continent.<br />

Tamarind Juice<br />

This invigorating sweet and sour juice is popular from<br />

Senegal to Sudan. Made from the pod-like fruits of the<br />

tamarind tree, the juice is known to be quite the thirst<br />

quencher. Tamarind is derived from the Arabic words:<br />

Tomur Hindi, meaning “Indian dates”.<br />

Design<br />

Sweden Meets Africa<br />

Ikea, the Swedish furniture store, will sell several items designed by<br />

10 renowned creatives from all over Africa. Representing countries like<br />

Kenya, Senegal and South Africa, designers draw on their culture and the<br />

modern urban rituals that are common across all cultures. With these<br />

rituals as a starting point, the ÖVERALLT collection stands for, “fun,<br />

inclusive and expressive”. The products will be available for a limited<br />

time starting in May 2019.<br />

~ ikea.today/checking-with-overallt<br />

Spris<br />

In Ethiopia, the avocado is perceived to be a sweet fruit; so<br />

Ethiopians make spris, a multi-fruit, layered juice that is not<br />

watered down. These thick smoothies are eaten with a spoon<br />

and include a papaya or mango layer. They’re served with<br />

fresh lime squeezed over them.<br />

Bouye<br />

The gigantic baobab trees can survive for thousands of<br />

years in the hot and dry climate of the African savannah,<br />

and the “monkey bread fruit” of this “tree of life” is equally<br />

impressive. Nairobi’s Talisman Restaurant nominates it as<br />

“Africa’s superfood”.<br />

Fashion week<br />

Celebrating<br />

Swahili Fashion<br />

The annual Swahili Fashion Week<br />

is one of the largest events of its<br />

kind in East Africa. Held from 30<br />

November to 2 December <strong>2018</strong> in<br />

Dar es Salaam, the event will<br />

showcase the work of fashion and<br />

accessory designers from Swahilispeaking<br />

countries in East Africa.<br />

“Made in Africa” is this year’s<br />

concept.<br />

~ swahilifashionweek.com<br />

Film festival<br />

Revolutionary<br />

African Movies<br />

Ever since the first edition of the<br />

Africa International Film Festival<br />

was hosted in the city of Port<br />

Harcourt, Nigeria, the festival has<br />

returned each year to raise awareness<br />

about African cinema. Filmmakers<br />

and movie stars from all<br />

over the world attend the weeklong<br />

festival. This year’s edition<br />

takes place from 11-17 November.<br />

~ afriff.com<br />

Zoom Koom<br />

This traditional drink from Burkina Faso means “flour water”<br />

and is also known as the country’s eau de bienvenue<br />

(welcome water). It’s a mixture of millet flour, water and sugar<br />

or shea butter. Pineapple and ginger are added for taste.<br />

Bissap Juice<br />

Bissap, sobolo and zobo are just a few of the many names<br />

for refreshing hibiscus juice, which is made from the plant’s<br />

flower: the “roselle”. The sepals are infused in hot water,<br />

leaving a red shade. Sugar or honey is added before the<br />

juice is chilled.<br />

Shutterstock


24 / HABARI<br />

ESwatini’s Mlilwane Wildlife<br />

Sanctuary is the country’s<br />

oldest protected area. It<br />

covers 45.6 sq km.<br />

Column<br />

Swaziland changed its name to<br />

eSwatini on 19 April <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Jackson Biko<br />

Too Much TV<br />

I’ve never been to New York. Everything I know about<br />

New York is from television, movies, books and Jay-Z. So<br />

when I think of New York, I think of people who bump into<br />

you on the street, and don’t say sorry. I think of the sitcom<br />

Friends. I think of subways where people don’t speak to each<br />

other, and some African guys wearing dashikis beat drums<br />

to folk who are wearing headphones. I think of small brick<br />

apartments that cost for a month what I pay in a year for my<br />

house. I think of their former mayor Rudy Giuliani with his<br />

wry foxy look and a shiny head that catches all the light in<br />

the room. When I think of New Yorkers, I imagine they all eat<br />

a lot of salad and steak done so rare it comes to the table<br />

still breathing.<br />

Writing this, in a quiet part of Nairobi on a Sunday<br />

afternoon, I can almost hear the constant sound of police<br />

sirens when I think of New York, and some Latino yellow-<br />

“Everybody drinks<br />

cocktails and drives<br />

on the wrong side of<br />

the road”<br />

cab driver shouting, “What the [deleted by editor]! You can’t<br />

smoke in my [deleted by ed.] car, buddy!” So yes, New York<br />

is loud.<br />

I don’t think I could live in New York because I don’t<br />

know how New Yorkers master all those streets: “Meet me on<br />

29th”; “The shop you are looking for is on the corner of 12th<br />

and 7th”; and, “There’s a fantastic new Portuguese coffee<br />

shop that has opened along West 15th Street”. Then of course<br />

everybody says, “block”, when explaining distances. “Two<br />

blocks down”, for example. And everybody drinks cocktails<br />

and drives on the wrong side of the road. (Maybe they drive<br />

on the wrong side of the road because they drink cocktails,<br />

I don’t know.)<br />

From the media, I know that once you’ve been to New<br />

York, you will have seen the best of the US, which raises<br />

the question: Will I not want to see Chicago after? Or<br />

Alabama? I don’t want New York to ruin it for Wisconsin,<br />

or me, because that’s a state in which I’m likely to meet my<br />

ginger-bearded doppelganger. The Brooklyn Bridge? It would<br />

be nice to see it, but I’m not dying to.<br />

But here’s the one thing that would absolutely make me<br />

want to go to New York (and this is going to sound mad).<br />

For some reason, I’ve always thought that if I visited New<br />

York, I would see Eva Mendes. I don’t even know which<br />

state Eva’s from, but in my head I’d spot her in the Big<br />

Apple when I’m in one of those cheesy hop-on, hop-off buses.<br />

She’d be walking down Fifth Avenue carrying a red designer<br />

bag, wearing a summer dress, and sporting sunglasses that<br />

almost add anonymity to her beautiful face. I’d shout,<br />

“Eva! Eva! It’s me!” Then, like a New Yorker, I’d shout for<br />

the driver to, “Stop the [deleted by ed.] bus!” And then I’d<br />

hop off and run.<br />

But I hope that when I see her, she won’t be with<br />

that guy. What’s his name? The guy she has children with,<br />

Ryan Gosling. That will completely ruin my New York<br />

experience. Actually, I wouldn’t want to see Ryan Gosling<br />

anywhere because then I will think of Eva, and why she gave<br />

him children, because he’s so cliché with his symmetrical face<br />

and movie-star looks (no jealousy here).<br />

Eva, if you’re reading this from New York, I’m free<br />

to travel as soon as you send me a smoke signal from<br />

Central Park.<br />

Illustration: Hannah Wieslander


26 / HABARI<br />

Lemur monkeys are endemic<br />

FOURt<br />

POINTS<br />

to Madagascar.<br />

BY SHERATON<br />

Botswana’s currency is called<br />

“pula”, which is divided into 100<br />

“thebe”. These two words mean<br />

“rain” and “shield” respectively.<br />

Favourites<br />

Nairobi<br />

Hurlingham<br />

Treat yourself<br />

The Gold Rush<br />

1 3<br />

Beats Solo3 Wireless On-Ear ALPHA-H Liquid Gold<br />

Headphones – Gold<br />

The multi-award-winning “overnight facial” from<br />

With up to 40 hours of battery life, these are Alpha-H transforms skin after just one use.<br />

your perfect everyday headphones. Connect your This leave-on liquid peel contains naturally<br />

device via Class 1 Bluetooth to listen wirelessly. derived fruit acids to help revitalise tired, ageing<br />

Premium playback and fine-tuned acoustics skin, and lessen the appearance of fine lines,<br />

maximise clarity, breadth and balance.<br />

enlarged pores, blemishes and sun damage.<br />

~ apple.com US$299.95<br />

~ Karibu US$30<br />

Sound<br />

B&O PLAY Portable<br />

Bluetooth Speaker<br />

Dust- and splash-resistant, the<br />

B&O PLAY Beoplay A1 portable<br />

Bluetooth speaker immerses you in<br />

great wireless sound from your<br />

iPhone or iPad anywhere you go.<br />

It’s small enough to sit in the palm of<br />

your hand and it’s shaped to slip neatly<br />

into your bag or a pocket. There’s also a<br />

built-in microphone for phone calls. The<br />

360-degree Bang & Olufsen signature<br />

sound has a satisfyingly deep bass. Up<br />

to 24 hours playing time on a single<br />

charge (at moderate volume).<br />

~ apple.com US$249.95<br />

2<br />

Tanzanite Tusk<br />

This exquisite, nine-carat yellow-gold African<br />

tusk pendant and chain was expertly crafted<br />

using rare tanzanite stones and gold exclusively<br />

sourced from African soil. Pendant size: 2.6 cm.<br />

~ Karibu US$275<br />

1 2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

Asobu Flavour U See<br />

This 500-ml insulated bottle will stay cold for up<br />

to 12 hours. The clear centre section suspends<br />

the fruit, mint or other contents in your chilled<br />

water between two filters, preventing any bulk<br />

pulp from entering the drinking section.<br />

~ asobubottle.com US$19.99<br />

Inspired to buy?<br />

See our shopping<br />

magazine: Karibu.<br />

PERSONALISED YOUR WAY<br />

EVENTS DONE RIGHT<br />

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28 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />

TRAVEL / 29<br />

FANTASY<br />

LAND<br />

Michael Poliza<br />

Philip Lee Harvey<br />

Ethiopia’s AMHARA region is most<br />

famous for the excavated churches of Lalibela,<br />

but there’s more to discover. Could this be<br />

Tolkien’s Middle-earth?<br />

text Joost Bastmeijer


30 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />

TRAVEL / 31<br />

Previous pages<br />

Left: Simien Mountains, a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />

and national park; Right:<br />

the House of St. George in<br />

Lalibela<br />

AS WE TOUCH down at Bole International Airport, I<br />

notice two things: the tarmac smells of eucalyptus trees and<br />

the airport Wi-Fi isn’t working (neither is my mobile Internet<br />

service). Being a stereotypical millennial flying in from 4Gcovered<br />

Nairobi, it’s a tough realisation that will define the<br />

rest of our trip: from Addis Ababa to Lalibela and Gondar<br />

to Bahir Dar, it will be a digital detox.<br />

LA DOLCE VITA<br />

Before travelling to the Amhara region, I start my journey in<br />

Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa. After dropping off my luggage<br />

at the Ethiopian/Dutch-owned Zeist Lodge, an oasis-like city<br />

lodge – with a peaceful courtyard – it’s time for lunch. I head to<br />

Addis Ababa Restaurant, which is a perfect spot to try injera,<br />

the country’s national dish: a flatbread eaten with several kinds<br />

of stew. After dinner, smoke from burning frankincense and<br />

myrrh fills the circular building, indicating that the coffee’s<br />

ready. The origin of coffee cultivation and consumption lies in<br />

Ethiopia. Countless coffee bars still decorate the streets of<br />

Addis Ababa, including the city’s “first coffee company”: To.<br />

Mo.Ca., an abbreviation of the Italian words: Torrefazione<br />

Moderna Café.<br />

Ethiopia has never been colonised, despite two overthrow<br />

attempts by Italy, whose cultural influence – born from the two<br />

Italo-Ethiopian Wars (1895-1896 and 1935-1939) – is still very<br />

much present. The city offers some great pizzerias, such as Club<br />

Juventus, and even the supposedly largest market in Africa<br />

bears an Italian name: Merkato; the perfect place to shop for<br />

kitchenware, soccer shirts and spices. From Merkato, it’s a<br />

short taxi ride to Piazza (Italian for “square”), one of the<br />

most picturesque neighbourhoods in Addis Ababa. The area<br />

is studded with great cafés: Dej. Jote Street is particularly<br />

worthwhile. You can admire the city’s oldest hotel, Itegue<br />

Taitu, and have a beer at the vivid Florida bar. And don’t<br />

forget to check out the leather shops, evidence that Ethiopia<br />

is home to the continent’s largest population of cattle. More<br />

durable and high-end leather products can be bought at Zinaff,<br />

ZAAF and Bermero (shoes).<br />

Sporting a new Zinaff leather jacket, a pair of Bermero<br />

suede boots and carrying a shipload of Tomoca coffee in my<br />

suitcase, I travel north. From Addis, it’s a 680 km-long journey<br />

to the city of Lalibela, known for its impressive monolithic<br />

churches. The trip is best accomplished with the one-hour<br />

flight. Lalibela has its fair share of nice hotels and homestays,<br />

and my pick, Tukul Village, doesn’t disappoint. With rooms<br />

overlooking one of the city’s striking rock-hewn churches, it<br />

comes highly recommended. ><br />

“Even the supposedly largest market in Africa,<br />

bears an Italian name: Merkato”<br />

Where to stay<br />

Zeist Lodge<br />

With spacious rooms located around<br />

an old, walled family compound, this<br />

is a perfect suburb accommodation<br />

(close to the international airport).<br />

Addis Ababa. zeistlodge.com<br />

Tukul Village<br />

This “village” of “traditional” tukul-style<br />

buildings is located on one of Lalibela’s<br />

surrounding hills.<br />

Lalibela. tukulvillage.com<br />

Lodge du Chateau<br />

The rooms are situated around a small<br />

garden, which leads up to an elevated<br />

rooftop terrace, with hills on one side<br />

and the famous castles on the other.<br />

Gondar. lodgeduchateau.com<br />

Lake Tana Hotel<br />

Though this is one of Bahir Dar’s bigger<br />

hotels, it still boasts quirky old-school<br />

rooms, located right on the green<br />

lakeside, surrounded by rich birdlife.<br />

Bahir Dar.<br />

Above (anti-clockwise<br />

from top): View on<br />

Addis Ababa; Ethiopian<br />

woman, from the Simien<br />

Mountains, carrying<br />

some harvest home;<br />

Debre Berhan Selassie<br />

Church ceiling in Gondar<br />

Right page: Fasilidas’<br />

Pool: a sunken bathing<br />

place surrounding<br />

a small fortress in<br />

Gondar (top); Mother<br />

and daughter carrying<br />

firewood in Lalibela<br />

(bottom left); Baby<br />

geladas are dependent<br />

on their mothers for two<br />

years (bottom right)<br />

Michael Poliza, Philip Lee Harvey, Joost Bastmeijer, Getty Images


32 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />

TRAVEL / 33<br />

A priest walking<br />

up a stone ramp<br />

in Lalibela<br />

“The stonewalled Fasil<br />

Ghebbi complex is a<br />

perfect location for a<br />

morning walk”<br />

Philip Lee Harvey<br />

Philip Lee Harvey<br />

The Church of<br />

St George in<br />

Lalibela


34 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />

TRAVEL / 35<br />

Left page: Simien<br />

Mountains: this region is<br />

best known as the habitat<br />

of the gelada baboons and<br />

Ethiopian wolves (top); A<br />

street in Lalibela (bottom<br />

left); A priest greets<br />

worshippers at the House<br />

of St. George in Lalibela<br />

(bottom right)<br />

Left: Tapestries and<br />

pots for sale.<br />

Right: Priests walking<br />

down towards the<br />

House of St. George<br />

in Lalibela<br />

Philip Lee Harvey, Michael Poliza<br />

CHURCH OF ROCK<br />

At 5 a.m., my guide, Belaynew, is already waiting for me.<br />

With my previously bought combi-ticket (US$50 and valid for<br />

five days), we follow the raspy chants of Lalibelan monks on<br />

our way uphill. A snaking, hewn-out path eventually leads us<br />

to the source of the enchanting singing in the House of St.<br />

Mercoreos, the first of 11 rock-cut churches we visit that day.<br />

Ten Ethiopian orthodox priests and monks – dressed in robes<br />

and carrying prayer staffs and long wax candles – are chanting<br />

in a small room, lit by one fluorescent light. Young apprentices<br />

listen quietly to the monks’ song. We know that the churches<br />

were carved from the relatively soft and volcanic, red tuff<br />

mountain, but when it comes to why the monolithic churches<br />

have been built, and who Lalibela actually was, a lot is still<br />

uncertain. One theory is that, as a youth, King Gebre Meskel<br />

Lalibela spent some time in Jerusalem, and the conquering of<br />

that city by Muslims in 1187 inspired him to build New Jerusalem<br />

in Roha (as the town was then called). Belaynew explains<br />

that some followers believe Lalibela himself carved the whole<br />

complex overnight, assisted by angels. Though the exact dates<br />

of the excavations are uncertain, it’s more likely that the first<br />

church was cut out in the 7th century, and the last one was<br />

formed in the 13th century.<br />

Besides priests and churchgoers, there are a lot of children<br />

frolicking around. “As a kid, I played in these churches and the<br />

tunnels that connect them,” says Belaynew. He takes me to one<br />

of the underground tunnels that is still open. “This one is so<br />

dark that we call it ‘Hell’,” he adds. If it wasn’t for Belaynew, I<br />

would have used my flashlight, but on his advice I leave my<br />

smartphone in my pocket. It’s a weird feeling, seeing absolutely<br />

nothing, and moving through a narrow tunnel on intuition and<br />

sense alone.<br />

After making it through “Hell” and visiting the other<br />

churches (including the most famous one, House of St.<br />

George), Belaynew and I part ways. Later that morning, the<br />

monks’ chanting stops and is replaced by the chatter of visiting<br />

tourists. On account of its ancient churches – all still clearly in<br />

use as active shrines – Lalibela is an exceptional place to spend<br />

time in.<br />

FELLOWSHIP OF THE RING<br />

The next morning I find myself in the back of an Ethiopian<br />

matatu minibus, sitting on a jerrycan while being wedged<br />

between two seats. It’s an uncomfortable seven-hour drive to<br />

Gondar, but the spellbinding scenery is a welcome compensation.<br />

The landscape reminds me of the book, The Lord of the<br />

Rings; even the region’s names are similar to the ones used by<br />

Tolkien. There’s Gondar (Gondor), Roha (Rohan), Bahir Dar<br />

(Barad-dûr) and even a city called Shire, north of the Simien<br />

Mountains. Could it be that the Amhara region inspired Tolkien<br />

(a native South African)? ><br />

“A snaking, hewn-out path eventually leads us to<br />

the source of the enchanting singing”<br />

Where to eat<br />

Club Juventus<br />

Slightly hidden behind Addis Ababa’s Meskel Square lies<br />

this sports complex for the city’s uptown kids. The old Italian<br />

canteen offers some great pizzas. Addis Ababa.<br />

Café Choché & To.Mo.Ca.<br />

Nestled in Legahar, Addis’ former Ethio-Djibouti Railway<br />

station, this wonderful café is our top pick to buy coffee. You<br />

can also get your beans at To.Mo.Ca Coffee, supposedly the<br />

oldest coffee company of the capital. Addis Ababa.<br />

facebook.com/CafeChoche; tomocacoffee.com<br />

Addis Ababa Restaurant<br />

If you eat injera once during your stay, have it here.<br />

Despite the shrieking TV noise, the atmosphere in this<br />

tukul-style building is unparalleled. Located in the Piazza<br />

neighbourhood. Addis Ababa.<br />

Ben Abeba Restaurant<br />

Just outside Lalibela, this quirky architectural wonder<br />

boasts not only a wonderful panoramic view, but also a nice<br />

Shepherd’s Pie – the owner is Scottish. Lalibela.<br />

benabeba.com/lalibela/Home.html<br />

Master Chef<br />

This small restaurant is perfect for a fishy lunch – Lake<br />

Tana’s tilapia is served in a variety of fried, cooked and baked<br />

versions. Gondar.<br />

Dashen Brewery<br />

A brewery located next to a university can’t go without a beer<br />

garden. Here, you drink the unfiltered beer straight from the<br />

barrel, called Dashen Cellar. Bar snacks are also available.<br />

Gondar.<br />

Hani Juice<br />

Arguably one of the best juice bars in Amhara, Hani Juice’s<br />

drinks are served so thick, you have to eat them with a spoon.<br />

Bahir Dar.


36 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia<br />

TRAVEL / 37<br />

Left (clockwise<br />

from top left):<br />

Priest reading the Bible;<br />

Ceiling at the House of<br />

St. George; Blue Nile<br />

Falls: at 37-45 m in<br />

height, the falls consist<br />

of four streams that<br />

originally varied from a<br />

trickle in the dry season,<br />

to over 1/4-m–400-m<br />

wide in the rainy season<br />

Right (anti-clockwise<br />

from top): Boat carrying<br />

passengers on Lake<br />

Tana; Pelicans; Man in<br />

front of Blue Nile Falls<br />

“The Blue Nile Falls, the waterfall from where the<br />

Nile River begins its 4,500-km journey to the<br />

Mediterranean Sea, shouldn’t be missed”<br />

Getting Around<br />

When attempting to get around<br />

in Addis Ababa, it’s good to know<br />

that there is no such thing as Uber<br />

or Taxify, although there are some<br />

similar services called RIDE, ETTA<br />

and ZayRide. Unless you have an<br />

Internet connection, these services<br />

are redundant. However, there are<br />

other options, such as blue-white<br />

taxis (be sure to arrange a price<br />

before you get in), yellow taxis (more<br />

expensive, but more traveller-friendly<br />

because of their running meter) and<br />

Sub-Saharan Africa’s first light-rail<br />

metro line outside of South Africa.<br />

Gondar is most famous for its well-preserved castles and palaces<br />

in the stonewalled Fasil Ghebbi complex is a perfect location<br />

for a morning walk. But the Debre Birhan Selassie Church is the<br />

absolute highlight of my Gondar visit. After stopping for lunch<br />

at Master Chef (they serve great fish, freshly caught from the<br />

nearby Lake Tana), it’s a 20-minute walk out of town. In a<br />

peaceful courtyard, where a monk hangs the clerical chasubles<br />

to dry, I find one of the most beautifully decorated churches<br />

of Ethiopia. Every corner of this 17 th -century church is graced<br />

with superb art depicting bible stories. And don’t forget to look<br />

up: the painted ceiling features the faces of 80 beautiful angels.<br />

With the Fasil Ghebbi complex around the corner, my hotel<br />

is perfectly situated. Although the walls of Lodge du Chateau’s<br />

rooms are wafer-thin, Simon, the owner, makes up for that by<br />

going the extra mile. From here, you can hop into a tuk-tuk and<br />

head to the south of town, where a visit to Fasilidas’ Pool – a<br />

sunken bathing place surrounding a small fortress – is still used<br />

for the annual Timkat celebration in January. A visit to this<br />

royal pool is a great excuse to check out the city’s Dashen<br />

Brewery, which has a charming beer garden that is often<br />

packed with students from the adjacent university.<br />

More comfortable than the ride from Lalibela, a five-hour<br />

drive takes us to Bahir Dar, Amhara’s capital, which is situated<br />

south of Lake Tana. This green, somewhat more tropical destination<br />

is ideal for day trips. The lake’s monastery islands and<br />

the Blue Nile Falls, the waterfall from where the Nile River<br />

begins its 4,500-km journey to the Mediterranean Sea,<br />

shouldn’t be missed.<br />

After the hustle and bustle of Addis Ababa and the cultural<br />

stopovers at Lalibela and Gondar, it’s nice to be in a town<br />

where there isn’t that much to do. After a small lunch in an<br />

unassuming bistro opposite the market, I go for a coffee at<br />

Wude, and top it off with a fresh fruit juice at Hani Juice.<br />

From there, it’s easy to access the pleasant two-km lakeshore<br />

footpath that is dotted with bars alongside the city’s small<br />

harbour.<br />

As I reach the gates of the lush Lake Tana hotel, my phone<br />

starts buzzing. Apart from some sporadic signals during my<br />

trip, it’s the first time I have full-speed Internet access again. I<br />

take my phone, look at the long list of notifications and pocket<br />

it again while I look over the lake. Thanks to Ethiopia, I’m less<br />

hooked than before.<br />

➔<br />

Plan your trip<br />

Kenya Airways operates non-stop daily<br />

flights to Addis Ababa from Nairobi’s<br />

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.<br />

Philip Lee Harvey, Michael Poliza, Joost Bastmeijer


38 / PEOPLE / Cycling<br />

PEOPLE / 39<br />

In The<br />

Saddle<br />

A BREAKAWAY GROUP of African<br />

cyclists are attempting to emulate the<br />

achievements of Kenyan-born, four-time<br />

Tour de France champion Chris Froome.<br />

text Graham Willgoss<br />

Personal best: 2nd overall, <strong>2018</strong><br />

Giro Rosa<br />

Ashleigh<br />

Moolman-<br />

Pasio<br />

Born<br />

9 December, 1985<br />

Hometown<br />

Pretoria, South Africa<br />

Team<br />

Cervélo–Bigla Pro Cycling<br />

Greatest achievements<br />

1st, African Continental Championships<br />

– Road Race (2011, 2012, 2013 and<br />

2015); 3rd, La Course (<strong>2018</strong>); 1st<br />

Mountains Classification, Setmana<br />

Ciclista Valenciana (<strong>2018</strong>); 3rd,<br />

Commonwealth Games – Road Race<br />

(2014); 3rd, World Championships – Team<br />

Time Trial (2016)<br />

“I WANT THE world to wake up to see that Africa<br />

already has someone capable of ‘podiuming’ at a Grand<br />

Tour,” said Ashleigh Moolman-Pasio (32) before July’s<br />

Giro Rosa. A bold statement; but the South African<br />

made history by doing exactly that when she finished<br />

second overall at the Giro Rosa: the only Grand Tour<br />

in women’s cycling.<br />

Moolman-Pasio, who rides for the Cervélo–Bigla<br />

Pro Cycling team, backed that up just two days later<br />

with a thrilling third-place finish at La Course, the<br />

prestigious one-day race staged by Tour de France<br />

owners, ASO. Standing on the podium as an African<br />

woman, she explains, is no small thing because cycling<br />

is still in its nascent phase in Africa. “As an African or<br />

South African, you might have the physical potential,<br />

ability or talent to become a really great cyclist, but<br />

you’re not going to become one of the world’s best by<br />

staying in your own country. You have to make that<br />

decision [to move to Europe].”<br />

Moolman-Pasio turned professional in 2010, and<br />

has won the African Continental Championships<br />

road race three times, but this campaign has been her<br />

most rewarding. This season, she bagged 13 top-10s<br />

before competing at Giro Rosa. Her success is hard<br />

earned. “Professional cycling is a very challenging<br />

career because there are so many things out of our<br />

control that can go wrong,” she says. “Injury is a very<br />

real part of the sport. Even in the first year of being<br />

pro, I broke my collarbone three times. The third<br />

time, my mum called me... and said, ‘Isn’t this enough<br />

now?’ I was still so hungry and determined that the<br />

answer was straightaway, ‘No. I haven’t finished what<br />

I’ve started.’”<br />

Getty Images<br />

“In the first year<br />

of being pro, I broke my<br />

collarbone three times”


40 / PEOPLE / Cycling<br />

PEOPLE / 41<br />

“I always tell young<br />

Rwandan cyclists, both<br />

boys and girls, about my<br />

story. I want to help<br />

them reach their dream”<br />

“It is a big step for African<br />

cycling… I’m proud to be<br />

African and I’m proud to be<br />

Eritrean”<br />

Gruber Images<br />

Getty Images<br />

Personal best: 1st overall,<br />

2010 Tour of Rwanda<br />

Daniel<br />

Teklehaimanot<br />

Born<br />

10 November, 1988<br />

Hometown<br />

Debarwa, Eritrea<br />

Team<br />

Cofidis<br />

Greatest achievements<br />

First black African to wear a Tour de France<br />

classification jersey of any kind (Climber’s<br />

polka-dot jersey, 2015); 1st, 2010 African<br />

Continental Championships – Road Race; 1st,<br />

African Continental Championships – Time Trial<br />

(2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013)<br />

THE FIRST AFRICAN to wear the polka-dot jersey –<br />

awarded to the best climber after mountain stages – Eritrea’s<br />

Daniel Teklehaimanot (29) gave himself and his country a day<br />

they will never forget at the Tour de France in 2015.<br />

“It’s a big step for African cycling and I feel really proud,”<br />

said Teklehaimanot, then riding for South African team MTN<br />

Qhubeka (now Team Dimension Data), on becoming the first<br />

black African to wear a Tour de France classification jersey of any<br />

kind. “I’m proud to be African and I’m proud to be Eritrean…<br />

With this jersey, it’s a dream that has come true.”<br />

Teklehaimanot and compatriot Merhawi Kudus also marked<br />

a genuine cultural milestone in professional cycling – a sport<br />

dominated by white riders – that same year as the first black<br />

Africans to compete at the Tour de France. They had come so far<br />

from a country that has so little.<br />

By then, Teklehaimanot was used to making African cycling<br />

history. At the London 2012 Olympic Games, he became the first<br />

Eritrean to compete in a sport other than athletics when he finished<br />

73rd in the road race. Thanks to his African success – he has won<br />

10 gold medals across the road race, time trial and team time trial<br />

at the African Continental Road Cycling Championships – he<br />

then spent four seasons with Team Dimension Data. There, he<br />

won the mountain classification leader’s jersey twice at the<br />

Critérium du Dauphiné and the Giro d’Italia equivalent – the<br />

blue climber’s jersey – after stages two and three in 2017. These<br />

achievements made him the highest-profile black African rider at<br />

Team Dimension Data.<br />

Despite his impressive palmarès (list of wins), this year’s Tour<br />

de France was the second in a row in which no black African had<br />

been selected for any team. Teklehaimanot is currently at French<br />

team Cofidis, who compete at Pro Continental level – cycling’s<br />

second tier – and rode this year’s race without him.<br />

ADRIEN NIYONSHUTI’S cycling career is a Cinderella story<br />

that would never have been told if someone hadn’t taken a chance.<br />

That someone is Jock Boyer, a former professional cyclist and<br />

the first American to ride the Tour de France. In 2005, Boyer went<br />

to Rwanda believing that, if East Africa could produce athletes<br />

with the natural physiology that made them such dominant distance<br />

runners, he could find cyclists with the potential to compete<br />

at a World Tour level. And this in a country rebuilding after one of<br />

modern history’s most devastating events: the 1994 genocide.<br />

“The physiological attributes of Rwandans are definitely<br />

attuned to cycling,” says Boyer, who went on to found – and still<br />

runs – Rwanda’s national cycling team. “Rwandans are skinny,<br />

tall and have a very good power-to-weight ratio [making them<br />

excellent natural climbers].”<br />

The most successful product of Boyer’s project is Niyonshuti<br />

(31), whom the American transformed from a raw talent on a<br />

wooden bike into a World Tour rider. Niyonshuti won the 2008<br />

Tour of Rwanda and became the first of his countrymen to race<br />

a bike at the Olympic Games: in the cross-country mountain bike<br />

event at London 2012, where he was also Rwanda’s flag-bearer.<br />

He’s the only Rwandan to have ridden for a World Tour outfit<br />

(South Africa’s Team Dimension Data), and he qualified for the<br />

road race at the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. Last season, Niyonshuti<br />

left Team Dimension Data after nine years. He says he’s<br />

aiming to get back on his mountain bike at the 2020 Olympic<br />

Games in Tokyo. For now, he rides for South African team Sampada<br />

and runs his own academy for young riders in Rwamagana.<br />

“It has been amazing… I always tell young Rwandan cyclists,<br />

both boys and girls, about my story. I want to help them reach<br />

their dream. I want to give them opportunities and open doors for<br />

them,” says Niyonshuti in an ESPN news article.<br />

Personal best: 1st overall, 2008<br />

Tour of Rwanda<br />

Adrien<br />

Niyonshuti<br />

Born<br />

2 January, 1987<br />

Hometown<br />

Rwamagana, Rwanda<br />

Team<br />

Sampada<br />

Greatest achievements<br />

First black African to compete in<br />

mountain biking at the 2012 Olympic<br />

Games (London); 1st, National<br />

Championships Rwanda – Road Race<br />

(2011 and 2012); 1st, National<br />

Championships Rwanda – Time Trial<br />

(2016 and 2017)


42 / PEOPLE / Cycling<br />

PEOPLE / 43<br />

“My dream is to<br />

race a big race like<br />

the Giro d’Italia”<br />

Kenyan Riders Downunder<br />

“I hope my story can<br />

inspire some women<br />

in Africa”<br />

Getty Images<br />

Personal best: 1st,<br />

Stage 3, <strong>2018</strong> Sharjah<br />

Tour<br />

Salim<br />

Kipkemboi<br />

Born<br />

30 November, 1998<br />

Hometown<br />

Eldoret, Kenya<br />

Team<br />

Bike Aid<br />

Greatest achievements<br />

4th overall, <strong>2018</strong> Sharjah Tour; 16th, <strong>2018</strong><br />

African Continental Championships – Road<br />

Race; 39th, <strong>2018</strong> Commonwealth Games –<br />

Road Race; 7th overall, 2017 Tour Meles<br />

Zenawi for Green Development<br />

ITEN MIGHT BE the spiritual home of running and the<br />

training ground of countless Kenyan distance champions, but a<br />

project exists to take the native athletic talent and turn them into<br />

cycling’s Grand Tour winners of the future.<br />

Instrumental in identifying and developing that potential is<br />

Australian Simon Blake, a coach at the Kenyan Riders Downunder<br />

training camp 2,400-m high in the Rift Valley. “If you go with the<br />

school of thought that says that Kenyan athletes have a genetic<br />

advantage, most of the traits that would be beneficial to running<br />

would also be beneficial in endurance cycling,” he explains.<br />

Blake is part of a programme run in partnership with<br />

German non-profit and UCI Continental team Bike Aid. One<br />

of that partnership’s fastest-rising stars is Salim Kipkemboi (19),<br />

who knows what success looks like despite his tender years. He<br />

comes from the same tribe as current Olympic 5,000-m champion<br />

Vivian Cheruiyot, and last year lined up for the Tour of the Alps, a<br />

race won by current Tour de France champion Geraint Thomas.<br />

His aim is to use the shared physiological traits of his compatriot<br />

to emulate the Welshman’s Grand Tour glory.<br />

Kipkemboi was transporting firewood on his bike when he<br />

first joined the programme. After a four-year apprenticeship, he’s<br />

now a pro rider whose most notable results to date are his queenstage<br />

win and subsequent fourth-place overall finish in February’s<br />

Sharjah Tour in the UAE, where he also won the jersey for the best<br />

young rider. This year, he also finished 39th in the Commonwealth<br />

Games road race on Australia’s Gold Coast; lined up alongside<br />

development teams from the pro peloton – including Sunweb and<br />

Team Dimension Data – at Le Tour de Savoie Mont Blanc; and<br />

raced at the two-week Tour of Qinghai Lake in China.<br />

“My dream is to race a big race like the Giro d’Italia or go to<br />

the Tour de France,” says Kipkemboi during a CNN Inside Africa<br />

programme. Blake believes that it’s possible.<br />

MAURITIAN RIDER Aurelie Halbwachs (32) represented<br />

her country for the first time at the African Cycling Championships<br />

in 2006, winning gold in the individual time trial. “I was so<br />

proud to be on the top step for my first time... standing under the<br />

national colours of Mauritius as the flags were raised and our<br />

anthem played,” she says in a Team Africa Rising article. “The<br />

South African women were not really happy as they were the<br />

only ones dominating road racing in Africa at the time!” This<br />

race would set the tone for much of her medal-laden career.<br />

Halbwachs is easily her country’s most successful, most versatile<br />

rider, having represented the island nation twice on the biggest<br />

stage: in the road race at the 2008 and 2012 Olympic Games. She<br />

has also ridden for Mauritius three times at the Commonwealth<br />

Games: in 2010, 2014 and again in Australia this year, where she<br />

came in 12th in the individual time trial, but suffered a mechanical<br />

problem in the road race, which forced her to withdraw.<br />

Halbwachs has been named her country’s sportswoman of the<br />

year four times, but had to wait until last year to stand on the top<br />

of the podium at the African Continental Championships, 11<br />

years after she first did so. This time, she achieved road race and<br />

time trial gold. Arguably a greater achievement, however, was her<br />

bronze medal at the championships while almost three-months<br />

pregnant in 2015.<br />

Halbwachs is not only a versatile rider on the road; her<br />

talents extend to more rugged terrain, as she has proved with a<br />

silver and a bronze medal at the CAC Mountain Bike African<br />

Championships. If she has made it look easy, Halbwachs’ journey<br />

to this point has been anything but. “I had to battle hard to find<br />

sponsors for my travel expenses many times and it’s unfortunate…<br />

I hope my story can inspire some women in Africa.”<br />

Personal best: 1st, 2017 African<br />

Continental Championships Road<br />

Race and Time Trial<br />

Aurelie<br />

Halbwachs<br />

Born<br />

24 August, 1986<br />

Hometown<br />

Curepipe, Mauritius<br />

Greatest achievements<br />

1st, 2006 African Continental<br />

Championships – Time Trial; 2nd, 2010<br />

African Continental Championships –<br />

Time Trial; 2nd, 2013 CAC Mountain Bike<br />

African Championships


- FRANCE -<br />

44 / TRAVEL / Facts<br />

In 2014, Kenya Airways<br />

promoted Irene Koki Mutungi<br />

to Captain of the 787-8,<br />

making her the first female<br />

Dreamliner Captain in Africa.<br />

Landing Gear<br />

Irene Koki Mutungi actively mentors,<br />

supports and encourages girls to take<br />

up science, technology, engineering and<br />

mathematics subjects at school.<br />

Nose Gear<br />

Steering System.<br />

Nose Landing<br />

Gear Door.<br />

The ground speeds are approx. 165<br />

knots (360 km/hr) for take-off and<br />

approx. 140 knots (260 km/hr) for<br />

landing (depending on the weight).<br />

The tyres are 101 cm<br />

in diameter, 40 cm in<br />

width, and they have<br />

40-cm rims. The tyre<br />

pressure is 187 PSI.<br />

EVERYDAY PROOF<br />

The 787-8 landing<br />

gear is extremely<br />

strong, and it can<br />

comfortably land<br />

a weight of up<br />

to 172,365 kg.<br />

With a maximum take-off weight of 228,000 to<br />

251,000 kg, an aircraft needs a solid pair of wheels<br />

to secure a safe take-off and landing. Irene Koki<br />

Mutungi, Captain on the 787-8 Dreamliner, gives<br />

us the lowdown on this modest yet indispensable<br />

component of the aircraft.<br />

“The landing gear comprises of the wheels, brakes<br />

and steering mechanism,” she says. “They support<br />

the aircraft on the ground and make it possible to<br />

take off and land. The 787-8 has two main landing<br />

gear under the wings, and one nose gear (pictured)<br />

in the front of the aircraft. Each main gear has four<br />

wheels, and the nose gear has two wheels.” After<br />

take-off, the wheels retract into the aircraft fuselage<br />

until its time to prepare for landing when they are<br />

extended. “To retract and extend the gear, we use a<br />

hydraulic system,” adds Mutungi. “When the wheels are<br />

retracted, they are stored in compartments below the<br />

passenger cabin. There are also carbon ceramic brakes<br />

that aid in manoeuvring on the ground.” Mutungi,<br />

who has been working for Kenya Airways for 23 years,<br />

concludes by reassuring us that, “Losing a wheel is<br />

highly unlikely, but if the gear does not extend normally,<br />

we have alternate extension systems in place.”<br />

text: Annette Lavrijsen image: Alamy<br />

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Cell No: +254 773 180145<br />

Tel No. +254 20 3741915/6<br />

Email: info@eagm.com<br />

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Cell No: +254 722 209723<br />

Tel No: +254 41 2224681<br />

Email: info@eagm.com<br />

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We are social @eagmfoodservice


46 / TREND / Space<br />

TREND / 47<br />

Liftoff<br />

Africa’s SPACE PROGRAMME is underway.<br />

Communications, disaster management and<br />

agriculture have entered the technetronic age with<br />

the help of orbital satellites.<br />

text Andrea Dijkstra<br />

OVERLOOKING THE ETHIOPIAN capital is Mount<br />

Entoto, the so-called “lung of Addis Ababa”. Rising 3,200 m<br />

above sea level, the highest peak of the Entoto Mountains got<br />

its name because of the dense collection of eucalyptus trees that<br />

cover it. This forest was once a key source of building materials<br />

for Addis Ababa. Among these trees now sit two futuristic metal<br />

domes, standing out against the blue sky and juxtaposing the<br />

surrounding fields, which are still ploughed by farmers using<br />

oxen. Both buildings house a computer-controlled optical<br />

telescope that weighs six tonnes and costs about US$1.5 million.<br />

They are part of the US$4 million Entoto Observatory and<br />

Space Science Research Center, which is the first space observatory<br />

in East Africa, and, essentially, the first building block<br />

of the country’s space programme. Ethiopia will enter the next<br />

phase when it launches its own satellite from a facility in China<br />

within four years.<br />

Ethiopia is one of a rising number of countries on the<br />

African continent that have created national space agencies.<br />

Eight of them already have operating satellites: Algeria, Angola,<br />

Egypt, Ghana, Kenya, Morocco, Nigeria and South Africa.<br />

Although critics think it’s an odd use of scarce resources on a<br />

continent where over 42 percent of the population still lives<br />

below the poverty line, experts in the industry claim that space<br />

technology is crucial for the development of Africa. “Space<br />

science technology is often considered a luxury for developed<br />

countries only, but it’s actually a basic and vital need for development,”<br />

says Dr Solomon Belay Tessema, Director General<br />

of the Entoto Observatory and Space Science Research Center.<br />

He adds that space technology develops sectors including<br />

energy, mining, data processing, and agriculture.<br />

><br />

Africa’s space race<br />

While the US and the Soviet Union<br />

strived to become the first nation<br />

to put a human into space in the<br />

previous century, a new “space race”<br />

has recently broken out in Africa. The<br />

continent now has its first “Afronaut”.<br />

Mark Shuttleworth, from South Africa,<br />

became the first African to travel to<br />

space when he joined the Russian<br />

Soyuz TM-34 mission – in 2002 – as<br />

the second self-funded space tourist,<br />

paying approximately US$20 million,<br />

and spending eight days at the<br />

International Space Station. However,<br />

the race for the first black “Afronaut”<br />

is still in full swing. South African<br />

Mandla Maseko (29), a part-time DJ<br />

who grew up in a township, defeated<br />

a million other fellow applicants<br />

of the Axe Apollo Space Academy<br />

competition in 2013, which gave<br />

him a ticket to join one of the<br />

Lynx Mark II flights. Although he<br />

has already done several training<br />

assignments, no firm plans been<br />

made public yet.<br />

Getty Images


48 / TREND / Space<br />

TREND / 49<br />

Jeroen van Loon<br />

Entoto Observatory and<br />

Space Science Research<br />

Center, Ethiopia<br />

mation about changes in their natural resources and environment,<br />

and this vital information will help countries to attract<br />

investments and plan further economic development.” Nigeria<br />

will launch two more satellites within three years in collaboration<br />

with China Great Wall Industry Corporation.<br />

While no African country is within realistic reach of the<br />

moon yet, Nigeria and South Africa have by far the most<br />

advanced space programmes on the continent. American space<br />

agency NASA built a radio astronomy observatory in South<br />

Africa in the 1960s. Last July, the country inaugurated the<br />

US$330 million MeerKAT radio telescope, which will enable<br />

astronomers to paint a detailed picture of some of the deepest<br />

reaches of outer space, and to survey the entire sky thousands<br />

of times faster than any system currently in existence.<br />

While high costs prevented many African nations from<br />

starting a space programme in the past, thanks to new inventions<br />

like the CubeSat – a type of miniaturised satellite that<br />

is cheaper to deploy – and the growing number of private<br />

companies that are entering the exploration domain, the satellite<br />

industry is becoming more accessible for newcomers. Kenya,<br />

for example, launched its first cube satellite – in May this year<br />

– from the Japanese module of NASA’s International Space<br />

Station (ISS) after it was brought there by SpaceX, the private<br />

American company led by Elon Musk, which aims to reduce<br />

space transportation costs. This same company delivered the<br />

GhanaSat-1 – Ghana’s first satellite – to the ISS one year earlier.<br />

It will be used to monitor Ghana’s coastline for mapping purposes.<br />

It will also be used to integrate satellite technology into<br />

the high-school curriculum. Furthermore, Côte d’Ivoire plans<br />

to launch a satellite in the coming two years to obtain better<br />

meteorological data and fight rising piracy in the Gulf of<br />

Guinea.<br />

3<br />

The number of Nigerian satellites that are<br />

currently in orbit<br />

8<br />

The number of African countries with<br />

satellites in orbit<br />

US$4 million<br />

Mohammed Hussein Al Amoudi funded<br />

most of the Entoto Observatory and<br />

Science Research Center in Ethiopia<br />

US$3 billion<br />

The money spent on space projects in<br />

Africa since 1998<br />

HIGH-TECH MONITORING<br />

Ethiopia plans to launch a Chinese-built earth-observation<br />

satellite that will be used to monitor crops and the weather. “It<br />

will be able to check for eligible soil types, the humidity of soil<br />

and also what kind of crops are suitable in which regions,” says<br />

electrical engineer Ghion Ashenafi of Entoto Observatory, as<br />

the bright sky unfolds above us with the opening of the dome.<br />

“This is extremely valuable information that we can use to<br />

improve our agriculture sector, especially in these times of<br />

climate change.” Satellite technology also assists in monitoring<br />

construction of major infrastructure projects like the Grand<br />

Ethiopian Renaissance Dam. “Ethiopia is already using<br />

foreign-owned satellites for such purposes,” adds Ashenafi.<br />

Elsewhere in Africa, South Africa has built six operational<br />

satellites in orbit that monitor droughts, fires and floods, while<br />

examining the growth of settlements and the transformation of<br />

housing, which provides useful data for town planning. Nigeria<br />

has launched five satellites since 2003, and its first one – the<br />

NigeriaSat-1 – played a significant role in providing the first<br />

satellite images after Hurricane Katrina struck New Orleans in<br />

2005. Nigeria uses its three operational satellites for telecommunications,<br />

disaster management, agriculture and weather<br />

forecasts, but also to track the movements of extremist group<br />

Boko Haram, and to prepare for elections. “With the last<br />

presidential elections, the images helped us localise hard-toreach<br />

villages that are not yet on any map, and to calculate<br />

how many polling stations and ballot papers we needed in<br />

those areas,” says Director Strategic Space Applications at the<br />

National Space Research and Development Agency in Nigeria<br />

Halilu Ahmad. “Space technology is crucial for Africa as so<br />

many countries still lack accurate maps and up-to-date infor-<br />

“Experts in the industry<br />

claim that space technology<br />

is crucial for the development<br />

of Africa”<br />

Did you know?<br />

• In 1964, the self-appointed Director of Zambia’s national<br />

space programme, Edward Mukuka Nkoloso, rolled his<br />

space trainees down a hill in oil drums to simulate the<br />

weightless conditions of the moon. He was unsuccessful<br />

in landing the first Zambian on the moon, but the 2014<br />

film Mukuka Nkoloso the Afronaut was inspired by his<br />

efforts.<br />

• Nigeria’s first satellite – the NigeriaSat-1 – played a<br />

significant role in providing the first satellite images<br />

after Hurricane Katrina struck New Orleans in 2005.<br />

• Hartebeesthoek Radio Astronomy Observatory in South<br />

Africa received the world’s first close-up images of the<br />

planet Mars.<br />

ASTRONAUT AFRICA<br />

While the argument still persists that the continent’s many<br />

problems – such as food insecurity, poor education and disease<br />

– should take precedence over the development of a space<br />

industry, awareness is growing about the potential for space<br />

technology to help tackle these pressing issues. The African<br />

Union passed an African space policy and a continent-wide<br />

space strategy in 2017, calling for the development of a continental<br />

space programme and the adoption of a framework to<br />

use satellite communication for the social, economic, political<br />

and environmental needs of the continent. In June this year,<br />

the African Union inked a deal with the European Commission’s<br />

Copernicus programme, which gives African scientists<br />

daily access to 12 terabytes of Earth-observation data, including<br />

land temperature, vegetation changes, weather patterns and<br />

aerial photographs of sea topography. This data is very useful<br />

given that Africa experiences droughts, heatwaves, floods, and<br />

rising sea levels more frequently than other continents.<br />

“In countries where the failure of a harvest may mean the<br />

difference between bounty and starvation, satellites have helped<br />

planners manage scarce resources and head off potential disasters<br />

before insects could wipe out an entire crop,” says space<br />

scientist Meshack Kinyua Ndiritu from the African Union.<br />

“For example, in agricultural regions near the fringes of the<br />

Sahara desert, scientists used satellite images to predict where<br />

locust swarms were breeding and were able to prevent the<br />

locusts from swarming, thus saving large areas of cropland.”<br />

He goes on to explain that satellites can also show the best<br />

places to drill for water or oil, or systematically monitor large<br />

areas to assess the spread of pollution and other damage. Such<br />

monitoring capabilities are critical for the long-term sustainable<br />

use of the continent’s scarce resources.<br />

US$185 million<br />

African civil space programme spending in<br />

Four of the seven<br />

satellite dishes in<br />

Carnarvon, South Africa<br />

2014, compared to a global<br />

US$42.4 billion<br />

xxxxx


50 / NATURE / Views /<br />

NATURE / 51<br />

Return<br />

Ticket<br />

Every October, almost<br />

TWO MILLION<br />

WILDEBEEST return<br />

from the Maasai Mara<br />

to the Serengeti. It’s a<br />

second chance to see<br />

the Great Migration.<br />

text Ben Clark<br />

WHILE SUMMER brings approx.<br />

1.7 million white-bearded wildebeest<br />

– with 400,000 Thomson’s and Grant’s<br />

gazelles, 300,000 zebras, 12,000 eland and<br />

impalas – from Tanzania to the abundant<br />

pastures of the Maasai Mara National<br />

Reserve in Kenya, fear not if you visit<br />

in Autumn. In October, as the Maasai<br />

Mara’s grazing conditions begin to fade,<br />

the animals start their return journey to<br />

southern Tanzania.<br />

They head south towards the<br />

Ngorongoro Conservation Area, then on<br />

to the Loliondo Game Controlled Area,<br />

before arriving in the short-grass plains<br />

of Serengeti National Park in time for the<br />

rains. The migration occurs within an<br />

area that is known as the “Serengeti ecosystem”.<br />

While the main concentration of<br />

migrating animals occurs in Kenya from<br />

July to September and during October,<br />

the movement is not an islotated event;<br />

these animals can, in fact, be seen during<br />

most of the year. Many people track the<br />

detailed movements of the herds, or book<br />

special safaris at camps and lodges dotting<br />

their path to witness the spectacle from<br />

close up.<br />

Although most of the Maasai Mara<br />

provides prime viewing in October, for<br />

the best migration experience head just<br />

over the Kenyan border, between Klein’s<br />

Camp and the Lamai Wedge in Tanzania.<br />

Maasai Mara National Reserve is about 280<br />

km (a five-hour drive) west of Nairobi Jomo<br />

Kenyatta International Airport.<br />

Piper Mackay


BUSINESS /53<br />

Geography<br />

All islands<br />

Endless white beaches with clear turquoise water and lagoons.<br />

Endemic animal species<br />

Mauritian flying fox<br />

(Mauritius, Réunion)<br />

Réunion<br />

Volcanic island<br />

covered in craters.<br />

Mostly mountainous,<br />

with fertile lowlands<br />

along the coast.<br />

Mauritius<br />

Volcanic island with a<br />

central plateau rimmed by<br />

mountains. The island is<br />

surrounded by coral reefs.<br />

Comoros<br />

Volcanic islands.<br />

Interiors vary from<br />

steep mountains<br />

to low hills.<br />

Seychelles<br />

About half of the<br />

islands are granite,<br />

with narrow coastal<br />

strips and hills<br />

rising to more than<br />

900 m.<br />

Seychelles<br />

Blue Pigeon/<br />

Pizon Olande<br />

(Seychelles)<br />

Pink pigeon<br />

(Mauritius)<br />

Mayotte<br />

Sunbird<br />

(Mayotte)<br />

Livingstone’s fruit<br />

bat/Comoro flying fox<br />

(Comoros)<br />

Source: tripadvisor.com, worldtravelguide.net, factsking.com<br />

Passport<br />

Name<br />

Vanilla Islands<br />

Location<br />

Indian Ocean<br />

Island nations<br />

Mauritius, Seychelles, Comoros, Madagascar, Mayotte, Réunion<br />

Biggest island<br />

Madagascar<br />

Smallest island (by area) Mayotte<br />

Currency<br />

Mauritian Rupee (MUR), Seychelles Rupee (SCR), Comoran Franc (KMF), (Madagascar)<br />

Malagasy Ariary (MGA), (Mayotte & Réunion) Euro (EUR)<br />

Local time<br />

UTC +4h: Mauritius, Seychelles, Réunion; UTC +3h: Comoros, Mayotte, Madagscar<br />

Languages<br />

Mauritius: English; Seychelles: Seychelles Creole, English, and French; Comoros: Comorian,<br />

Arabic, French; Madagascar: Malagasy, French; Mayotte: French; Réunion: French<br />

Flight info<br />

Kenya Airways operates four direct daily flights to Mauritius<br />

Touristic highlights<br />

• The Seven Coloured<br />

Earths, an area of sand<br />

dunes comprising sand<br />

of seven distinct colours.<br />

• Plage de Moya,<br />

a beach formed by three<br />

old craters.<br />

• Piton de la Fournaise,<br />

one of the most active<br />

volcanoes in the world.<br />

• Diving, snorkelling<br />

and turtle-spotting.<br />

• Anse Source d’Argent,<br />

a beach of pure-white<br />

sand and unique<br />

boulders.<br />

• Isalo National Park,<br />

which is often called<br />

“Jurassic Park”.<br />

Mauritius<br />

Mayotte<br />

Réunion<br />

Comoros<br />

Seychelles<br />

Madagascar<br />

Local food<br />

Mauritius<br />

Dishes such as roti, curry,<br />

samosa, chutney, rougaille (a<br />

Creole tomato sauce).<br />

Mayotte<br />

Fresh seafood<br />

with rice and<br />

coconut milk.<br />

Réunion<br />

Simple and spicy.<br />

Locally made rum is<br />

one of the favourite<br />

drinks here.<br />

1,000 km<br />

Seychelles<br />

Fish, seafood and shellfish<br />

dishes, often accompanied<br />

with (curry) rice.<br />

Comoros<br />

Fresh seafood<br />

with rice and<br />

meat. A<br />

special dish<br />

is lobster<br />

boiled in a<br />

rich vanilla<br />

sauce.<br />

Madagascar<br />

Rice with loaka, a tomato-based sauce.<br />

Common ingredients are garlic, onions,<br />

ginger, tomatoes, curry, coconut milk,<br />

vanilla, cloves and turmeric.<br />

Sources: britannica.com, cia.gov<br />

Sources: britannica.com, wits.worldbank.org, cia.gov Sources: britannica.com, justfunfacts.com<br />

Mayotte<br />

High volcanic peaks and<br />

lush evergreen tropical<br />

forests surrounded by<br />

coral reefs.<br />

Population, main industries and key products<br />

Main<br />

industries<br />

Export<br />

products<br />

Agriculture<br />

products<br />

Mayotte<br />

Lobster and shrimp industry,<br />

construction.<br />

Ylang-ylang (perfume<br />

essence), vanilla, copra,<br />

coconuts, coffee, cinnamon.<br />

Vanilla, ylang-ylang,<br />

coffee, copra.<br />

Madagascar<br />

Meat processing,<br />

soap, breweries,<br />

tanneries, sugar,<br />

textiles, glassware,<br />

cement.<br />

Vanilla, nickel (unwrought),<br />

cloves.<br />

Population<br />

(2017)<br />

25<br />

million<br />

Coffee, vanilla, sugarcane,<br />

cloves, cocoa, rice, cassava<br />

(tapioca), beans, bananas, peanuts.<br />

Madagascar<br />

Varies from coast to<br />

coast. At the central plateau:<br />

mountains, volcanoes, and rice<br />

fields. Along the<br />

coast: fertile<br />

lowlands and<br />

coral reefs.<br />

237,000<br />

Comoros<br />

Mayotte<br />

Comoros<br />

Tourism, perfume distillation.<br />

Vanilla, ylang-ylang (perfume<br />

essence), cloves.<br />

Vanilla, ylang-ylang, jasmine, cassis,<br />

cloves, perfume essences, copra,<br />

coconuts, bananas, cassava (tapioca).<br />

Madagascar<br />

808,000<br />

Seychelles<br />

Vanilla<br />

Islands<br />

Réunion<br />

Mauritius<br />

95,000<br />

1,260,000<br />

853,000<br />

Lemur<br />

(Madagascar)<br />

Fossa<br />

(Madagascar)<br />

Mauritius<br />

Gold dust<br />

day Gecko<br />

(Réunion,<br />

Madagascar)<br />

Mongoose<br />

lemur<br />

(Comoros)<br />

Seychelles<br />

Fishing, tourism, processing<br />

of coconuts and vanilla, coir<br />

(coconut fibre) rope, boat-building,<br />

printing, furniture, beverages.<br />

Canned tuna, frozen fish, petroleum<br />

products.<br />

Coconuts, cinnamon, vanilla, sweet<br />

potatoes, cassava (tapioca),<br />

bananas, broiler chickens, tuna fish.<br />

Textiles and clothing, watches and<br />

clocks, jewellery, optical goods, toys<br />

and games, cut flowers.<br />

Clothing and textiles, sugar, cut<br />

flowers, molasses, fish, primates<br />

(for research).<br />

Sugar, sugar derivatives, tea,<br />

tobacco, vegetables, fruits, flowers,<br />

fishing.<br />

Réunion<br />

Sugar, rum, cigarettes, handicraft<br />

items, flower-oil extraction.<br />

Sugarcane, essential oils, bourbon<br />

vanilla, fish and seafood (mainly tuna,<br />

swordfish and Patagonian toothfish).<br />

Sugarcane, vanilla, tobacco, tropical<br />

fruits, vegetables, corn.<br />

Sources: wikipedia.org, factsking.com, justfunfacts.com


54 / BUSINESS / MICE<br />

BUSINESS / 55<br />

OF MICE<br />

AND MEN<br />

Meetings, Incentives, Conferences and<br />

Exhibitions (MICE) are proliferating in Kenya,<br />

adding another dimension to the nation’s<br />

growing business sector.<br />

text Ken Kagicha<br />

Stocksy<br />

IN 2015, Kenya won the bid to host<br />

the Skål World Congress, which would<br />

have seen over 1,000 global travel and<br />

hospitality professionals gather in<br />

Mombasa. Although the Skål secretariat<br />

cancelled the meeting due to security<br />

concerns, Kenya was assured that it<br />

would get priority consideration in<br />

future. It didn’t take long for Kenya’s<br />

coastal city to be chosen once again.<br />

CONFERENCE CALL<br />

Mombasa will host the 79th Skål<br />

World Congress – from 17-21 October<br />

– at the PrideInn Paradise Beach Resort,<br />

Convention Centre and Spa. Local<br />

organisers are alive to the fact that the<br />

convention is an opportunity to showcase<br />

Kenya’s capacity to host international<br />

meetings, not just in the capital<br />

Nairobi, but also in other cities in Kenya.<br />

The Skål conference couldn’t have come<br />

at a better time: the security concerns<br />

have decimated, the tourism industry in<br />

Kenya is on the upswing and the new<br />

internationally accredited convention<br />

facility at PrideInn allows the city to host<br />

up to 2,500 delegates. Managing Director<br />

of PrideInn Hasnain Noorani says that<br />

having such a facility next to the white,<br />

sandy beach attracts conference travellers<br />

who enjoy the leisure add-ons without<br />

compromising the standards of an international<br />

meeting. “Mombasa is an<br />

attractive destination for conferences<br />

because it combines business and leisure.<br />

We encourage participants to come with<br />

their families so that, during breaks and<br />

after the day sessions, delegates can bond<br />

with family,” he says.<br />

The Skål Congress is one of a dozen<br />

international conferences lined up to<br />

happen in Kenya in late <strong>2018</strong> and early<br />

2019, in what is a rebound of the MICE<br />

sub-category. The number of international<br />

MICE in Kenya contracted from 227<br />

conferences (101,599 delegates) in 2016,<br />

to 191 conferences (64,167 delegates) in<br />

2017. Nearly 90 percent of the international<br />

meetings and conferences have<br />

been held in Nairobi, which holds the<br />

advantage of proximity to the region’s<br />

biggest and busiest airport, home to Kenya<br />

Airways as well as a good mix of conference<br />

facilities. The airport was recently<br />

given Category One status, which made<br />

the forthcoming direct flights between<br />

Kenya and the US possible.<br />

NASCENT NAIROBI<br />

The iconic Kenyatta International<br />

Convention Centre (KICC) – at the heart<br />

of Nairobi – has hosted several high-level<br />

meetings, including the World Trade<br />

Organization’s Ministerial Conference in<br />

2015; the UN Conference on Trade and<br />

Development in 2016, which brought<br />

together 6,000 delegates; and the Tokyo<br />

International Conference on African<br />

Development (TICAD), which hosted<br />

15,000 delegates from all over Africa and<br />

Japan. KICC is also set to host the firstever<br />

global Sustainable Blue Economy<br />

Conference in late November, bringing<br />

together 4,000 participants. Managing<br />

Director Nana Gecaga says the ability to<br />

host big-ticket conferences as well as<br />

cater for the needs of smaller meetings<br />

– of up to 15 people – is what sets a<br />

conference facility apart. “Delegates<br />

want a memorable experience beyond<br />

the normal business meetings,” she says.<br />

“Gone are the days when delegates<br />

would be confined to the hotel or conference<br />

venue. They want to experience the<br />

culture of the host country and interact<br />

with the people.”<br />

According to Gecaga, conference<br />

organisers are now adding tour packages<br />

so guests can sample beach or safari<br />

attractions, adding further to Kenya’s<br />

attractiveness as a conference destination.<br />

Nairobi also boasts of being the only city<br />

with a national park. “Nairobi’s vibrant<br />

nightlife and a depth of restaurants also<br />

offer visitors a wide range of options for<br />

delegates,” adds Gecaga.<br />

However, the leisure activities come<br />

after the basics of the conference have<br />

been arranged. They include: high-speed<br />

Internet; great food; world-class accommodation;<br />

and a conference programme<br />

that allows delegates to network and get<br />

insights at the same time. Most venues<br />

provide plenary ballrooms for delegates,<br />

smaller rooms for breakout brainstorming<br />

sessions, and gala grounds for opening<br />

cocktails or closing dinners; all essential<br />

elements for that all-around experience.<br />

Events and Conferences organiser ><br />

“Nairobi is expected to add 13 new hotels –<br />

with a total of 2,666 rooms – by 2019”<br />

Practical insights<br />

• Plan your event well in advance and secure venue, speakers, guests and suppliers<br />

at least four weeks before the event date.<br />

• Choose a conference venue that has at least one large ballroom with no pillars for<br />

the plenary sessions, and several smaller rooms for breakout sessions.<br />

• Include panel discussions in your sessions to add depth to the conference. Also,<br />

remember to broaden the choice of panellists for diverse views.<br />

• Get a moderator who is engaging, knowledgeable and time-conscious.<br />

• Always have a contact that delegates can reach at any time.


56 / BUSINESS / MICE<br />

Chris Kirwa says that more hotels are<br />

now factoring in conventions as part of<br />

their package. “For many years, I struggled<br />

with ballrooms that had two metres<br />

of headroom and many pillars that made<br />

it very difficult to create an experience for<br />

the guests,” he says. “KICC still stands<br />

out as the biggest venue with over 10<br />

metres of headroom clearance. But we<br />

now have hotels like Radisson Blu,<br />

Mövenpick and Enashipai (in Naivasha)<br />

that have excellent, huge ballrooms.”<br />

According to Kirwa, Kenya’s technical<br />

capacity to hold high-calibre meetings<br />

and expos has come of age. “Years<br />

back,” he says. “You had to import technical<br />

gear into the country. All this is<br />

now right here in Kenya. In fact, we are<br />

now supplying East and Central Africa.”<br />

clients for long stays. “There has been<br />

an increase in requests for residential<br />

meetings, which entail group meetings<br />

with accommodation,” she says. Other<br />

questions include whether the hotel can<br />

host exhibitions, business-to-business<br />

meetings, as well as product launches.<br />

Clients are also sensitive about value for<br />

money, so they will check if the prices<br />

are favourable and compare them with<br />

other similar facilities.<br />

Although Kenya’s MICE industry<br />

is facing competition from Kigali and<br />

Addis Ababa to host regional and international<br />

meetings, Nairobi’s connectivity<br />

“Gone are the days when delegates would be<br />

confined to the hotel or conference venue”<br />

ACCOMMODATING MEASURES<br />

Riding on the back of growing<br />

demand for conference facilities, Nairobi<br />

is expected to add 13 new hotels – with a<br />

total of 2,666 rooms – by 2019, according<br />

to a Jumia Hospitality report, which<br />

ranks Kenya’s capital as a major business<br />

destination alongside Johannesburg,<br />

Abidjan, Accra, Lagos and Cairo. New<br />

players are now competing on accessibility<br />

to key attractions, such as Nairobi<br />

National Park, and proximity to transport<br />

hubs. “Event participants are keen<br />

on accommodation within the conference<br />

venue and other facilities within the hotel,<br />

or those nearby, such as restaurants,<br />

shopping malls and banks,” says Hilton<br />

Garden Inn General Manager Lorenzo<br />

Baleri, adding that the hotel’s proximity<br />

to the Jomo Kenyatta International<br />

Airport ensures that attendees make it<br />

to the right place at the right time.<br />

Meanwhile, hotels such as Mövenpick<br />

and Radisson Blu are packaging<br />

themselves as MICE-centred facilities.<br />

Director of Sales and Marketing at<br />

Mövenpick Hotel & Residences Nairobi,<br />

Neelma Maru says that, in addition to<br />

offering accommodation and conference<br />

services under one roof, guests are also<br />

asking if the hotel can host business<br />

– such as high-speed Internet, and day<br />

and night attractions – make the city<br />

attractive to MICE organisers.<br />

And with more world-class conference<br />

facilities being added to the MICE<br />

inventory, and Nairobi increasingly<br />

becoming the city of choice to host<br />

regional and continental headquarters,<br />

the meeting and conference segment is<br />

expected to expand rapidly in the<br />

coming years.<br />

WHERE TO GO<br />

HILTON GARDEN INN – JOMO KENYATTA<br />

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

Excellent location adjacent to the<br />

international airport, Hilton Garden Inn<br />

provides an event space for up to 220 people,<br />

and conference facilities for up to 300 guests.<br />

hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com<br />

MÖVENPICK HOTEL & RESIDENCES<br />

NAIROBI<br />

This MICE-focused hotel offers 14 spacious<br />

and pillarless meeting rooms, a ballroom, a<br />

big exhibition hall and three boardrooms with<br />

natural daylight and high ceilings. A revolving<br />

restaurant gives guests a 360-degree view<br />

of Nairobi.<br />

movenpick.com<br />

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON NAIROBI<br />

HURLINGHAM<br />

This hotel has a total of 255 sq m of meeting<br />

area, which consists of four function rooms<br />

including a 122-sq-m venue; all equipped<br />

with wireless high-speed Internet access and<br />

audiovisual technology.<br />

fourpointsnairobihurlingham.com<br />

EKA HOTEL NAIROBI<br />

Close to the airport and Nairobi National<br />

Park, Eka has three multi-functional meeting<br />

rooms and two boardrooms with a capacity<br />

of 200 people (theatre style). Each room<br />

features natural daylight, audiovisual<br />

equipment and a business centre for the<br />

conference users.<br />

ekahotel.com<br />

KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION<br />

CENTRE (KICC)<br />

This government facility is the largest<br />

convention centre in East Africa. The Tsavo<br />

ballroom can hold 4,000 delegates. KICC<br />

has simultaneous interpretation equipment<br />

with the capability of translating up to seven<br />

languages, a modern business centre, a<br />

banking facility, expansive grounds, and<br />

ample and secure parking.<br />

kicc.co.ke<br />

Eka Hotel


58 / TRAVEL / Quiz<br />

Guess<br />

and Win<br />

We give you five clues about a<br />

KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />

Which country are we referring to?<br />

Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />

or Twitter using #msafiriquiz,<br />

and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />

text Eline Visscher<br />

C<br />

M<br />

Y<br />

CM<br />

MY<br />

CY<br />

CMY<br />

K<br />

1<br />

This African country is seen as the cradle of voodoo, a religion<br />

that was initiated in the 13th century. Because of their beliefs,<br />

locals don’t like to be photographed: they believe that a photograph<br />

can be used to cast a spell or a curse.<br />

2<br />

One of the national parks in this country is named after a<br />

letter in the alphabet, referring to the shape of a river flowing<br />

through that particular park, which is known for its large<br />

mammals, including aardvarks, caracal, cheetahs, elephants,<br />

hippopotami, West African lions and warthogs.<br />

3<br />

Hollywood actor Djimon Hounsou was born in this country.<br />

Hounsou became famous as a lead character in the film,<br />

Blood Diamond (2006), alongside Leonardo DiCaprio and<br />

Jennifer Connelly.<br />

4<br />

In this country, one can explore “The Venice of Africa”: a<br />

lake village built on stilts that can only be reached by boat.<br />

5<br />

Here, pythons are worshipped, so locals don’t panic if one<br />

slithers into their home. There’s even a temple of pythons in<br />

this country, which houses 50 adult royal pythons.<br />

Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #msafiriquiz. Each month, Kenya Airways will pick a winner<br />

and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.<br />

Shutterstock, Getty Images


60 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />

TRAVEL / 61<br />

5<br />

City of<br />

Angels<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Bangkok is a cut-and-thrust<br />

BUSINESS METROPOLIS with an<br />

almost mythical spiritual centre, where<br />

ancient rituals remain as important as<br />

commercial drive.<br />

text Mark Eveleigh<br />

6<br />

THE RISING SUN glints smoothly on the faces of Bangkok’s skyscrapers<br />

while, down below, its rays are shattered by rearing waves on the<br />

surface of the Chao Phraya River. Even from my high-rise window, I can<br />

see that the so-called River of Kings is running with a dramatic swell that<br />

would be more suited to a seascape than a major inland city.<br />

3<br />

4<br />

7<br />

Bartjan Bouman, Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh<br />

HIGH TIME<br />

Insulated in the glass cocoon of my Shangri-La suite, 29 storeys<br />

above the riverbank, I watch another day beginning in what is surely one<br />

of the most fascinating capitals in the world. I’ve always been delighted<br />

by the fast pace of life down on the city streets and along the waterways<br />

but, perhaps because this is a city without hills, there’s an undeniable ><br />

1. A bicycle excursion through the lush plantations just outside Bangkok 2. The<br />

Bangkok skyline seen from a long-tail boat 3. A culinary highlight 4. Khao San Road<br />

backpacker quarter 5. Chakrabongse Villas 6. The Chinatown district 7. Bicycles from<br />

Co van Kessel Bicycle and Boat Tours


62 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />

TRAVEL / 63<br />

thrill to getting up high in Bangkok, and enjoying the view from far above<br />

the temples, palaces and gritty alleyways.<br />

A whole upper echelon of rooftop bars, cafés and sky terraces loom<br />

in the rarefied stratosphere of a city that is estimated to have more than<br />

500 skyscrapers. The fast, efficient sky train carries commuters across the<br />

business centre, high above the bleating tuk-tuks and choked-up hawkercentre<br />

alleyways. Offices rise high over traditional residential quarters,<br />

and skybridges offer access between some of the world’s biggest<br />

multi-storey shopping centres.<br />

THE NEED FOR SPEED<br />

After decompressing high up overnight, I’m ready to return to the<br />

bustle of the street, and, even below that, to the choppy waters of the Chao<br />

Phraya River. The taxi drivers near the hotel greet me with the traditional<br />

wai – hands together in salutation with a slight bow – but I return their<br />

greetings as I stroll past, towards the main road. So many of the world’s<br />

biggest cities are a tiresome slog to travel around, but Bangkok has lively<br />

transport options (both on water and land) that can turn a mundane<br />

cross-city journey into an exhilarating rollercoaster ride. The street pilots,<br />

who operate Bangkok’s iconic tuk-tuks, have a knack for dashing through<br />

even the thickest rush-hour traffic, and within moments, I’m already flying<br />

down Charoen Krung Road with the natural air-con flying full blast in my<br />

face. This is said to be the first modern road built in Thailand (around<br />

1864), and it has seen a lot of changes. In less than 10 minutes, we’re<br />

already roaring under the neon signs of Chinatown and down a section<br />

of side alleys that are misty with the steam from rice and noodle stands.<br />

The tuk-tuk driver sets me down – with another wai – beside a local<br />

coffee stand and I order a strong cup of café bolan. I particularly appreciate<br />

the caffeine jolt this morning since I’m about to explore Bangkok’s<br />

backstreet quarters by bicycle. I’m dubious about this tour because, after<br />

more than 20 trips to this thrilling city, I have grave reservations about<br />

tackling Bangkok’s notorious traffic without the benefit of an engine.<br />

BANGKOK BIKER GANG<br />

“I’m taking you to see a side of Bangkok that few visitors ever see,”<br />

says my guide Prem as she introduces me to the primrose-yellow shoppingcycle<br />

that will be my mount for the morning. “Thonburi is the sleepy side<br />

of Bangkok and a wonderful place for cycling.”<br />

This sounds more enticing than a morning rush-hour bout with the<br />

Chinatown traffic, so I gulp down the last of my coffee and help Prem<br />

load the bikes onto a ferry that is bound for the west bank. Thonburi was<br />

the capital of the Siamese kingdom until 1782 but its full name, Thon<br />

Buri Sri Maha Samut – which means City of Treasures Gracing the<br />

Ocean – seems overly grand these days for what is now a pretty little<br />

backwater residential area. Thai people are world-famous for their<br />

friendliness, and even a convoy of custard-coloured shopping bikes –<br />

representing a real yellow-peril in the narrow alleys – merits a cheerful<br />

sawat di kha greeting from the residents. I’ve explored the tangle of<br />

klongs (canals) around Thonburi many times by long-tail boat, but this<br />

is a fresh outlook as we cycle over hump-backed bridges and alongside<br />

canals. We peddle past Buddhist temples and monasteries where barefoot<br />

monks are returning with alms bowls loaded with offerings from the local<br />

populace, who are grateful for a chance to improve their karma.<br />

“The monks are allowed to eat only up until midday,” Prem ><br />

1. Yaowarat Road in Chinatown 2. Bangkok’s skyline seen from a longtail boat<br />

3. A street stall in Klong San 4. A bus passing the Grand Palace 5. A street stall<br />

selling exotic snacks 6. Spicy bird’s-eye chillies 7. Monks return to their temple<br />

after a ceremony in Chinatown<br />

“The street pilots, who<br />

operate Bangkok’s iconic<br />

tuk-tuks, have a knack<br />

for dashing through even<br />

the thickest rush-hour<br />

traffic”<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Supanniga Cruise<br />

Experience the Chao Phraya River in topdeck,<br />

five-star style on a champagne cruise,<br />

dining on an unforgettable six-course meal<br />

direct from the recipe books of the owner’s<br />

grandmother.<br />

supannigacruise.com<br />

Moon Bar & Vertigo<br />

Perched on the high barstools overlooking<br />

the view from 61 storeys above the business<br />

district of Sathon, you’ll understand why this<br />

venue is called Vertigo. Sample the fresh<br />

seafood and you’ll understand why people<br />

are raving about this place.<br />

banyantree.com<br />

Le Du<br />

Le Du might sound French but this hidden<br />

street-level restaurant’s name is derived from<br />

a Thai word meaning “seasons” and is a<br />

temple celebrating the finest Thai food you’ll<br />

ever eat, prepared by the famous Chef Ton.<br />

ledubkk.com<br />

WHERE TO SLEEP<br />

Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok<br />

One of the premier addresses in Bangkok,<br />

this luxurious 26-storey hotel boasts six dining<br />

outlets (even a “Chocolate Boutique”) along<br />

with incredible views over the River of Kings.<br />

89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road, Bangrak<br />

Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse<br />

Opened in early <strong>2018</strong>, the Marriott<br />

Surawongse is already making a name for<br />

itself as one of Bangrak’s chicest hotels.<br />

The Yao Rooftop Bar (33rd floor) is already<br />

ranking among the city’s best rooftop<br />

rendezvous and the infinity pool (18th floor)<br />

is stunning.<br />

marriott.com<br />

Chakrabongse Villas<br />

The romantic riverside villas that make up<br />

this boutique hotel were transported here by<br />

the Thai prince whose family still owns the<br />

property. You can dine right on the riverbank<br />

on specialities that were traditionally<br />

prepared for Thai royalty.<br />

secret-retreats.com/chakrabongse<br />

Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh, Bartjan Bouman<br />

2<br />

1 3<br />

4<br />

5 6<br />

7


64 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />

TRAVEL / 65<br />

1<br />

2 3<br />

4<br />

7<br />

“A whole upper echelon<br />

of rooftop bars, cafés and<br />

sky terraces loom in the<br />

rarefied stratosphere”<br />

WHAT TO DO<br />

Ayutthaya – the ancient capital<br />

Take a step back in Thai history on a daytrip<br />

to historic Ayutthaya (80 km north of<br />

Bangkok), capital of Siam for about four<br />

centuries (from 1350) and now a fascinating<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site. Asian experts<br />

Backyard Travel can arrange day-trips that<br />

include a return on a Chao Phraya River<br />

lunch cruise.<br />

backyardtravel.com<br />

Food Tours<br />

The best Bangkok food tours also offer<br />

unique insights into everyday life in the<br />

City of Angels. Chinatown is frequently<br />

a highlight but the area around Phra<br />

Nakhon (Banglamphu) is unbeatable for<br />

local colour. Backyard Travel collaborate<br />

with a network of some of the most<br />

knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides in<br />

the city.<br />

backyardtravel.com<br />

Cycling Bangkok’s Islands<br />

Few visitors realise that, apart from joining a<br />

city cycling tour, it’s also possible to cycle a<br />

couple of Thai islands without even leaving<br />

the capital. Koh Kret (just take the Chao<br />

Phraya commuter ferry to Nonthaburi and<br />

a long-tail from there) is an idyllic little<br />

island community that you can explore in<br />

half a day. Bigger Bang Kra Jao (about the<br />

same size as the old city itself) is often<br />

described as Bangkok’s “green lung”, and<br />

is networked with peaceful cycle trails that<br />

will offer a blissful rural escape from the<br />

frantic pace of the city. Co van Kessel run<br />

excellent bicycle tours through Bangkok.<br />

covankessel.com<br />

explain. “Because they fast in the afternoon, the poor can ask for a meal<br />

simply by visiting a temple later in the day.”<br />

We cycle several miles and, as Prem had promised, I see a new and<br />

alluring side to the city by the time we stop at a roadside stall to eat grilled<br />

toast and condensed milk. Thai food has become justly famous worldwide<br />

and Bangkok is surely one of the most exciting gastronomic cities in<br />

the world. There are enough exotic flavours to challenge the most adventurous<br />

of gourmands, but even the humblest of snacks are often transformed<br />

into something exciting here.<br />

ALLEYWAY 61 REVISITED<br />

No matter what your taste in retail therapy is, Bangkok is a shopper’s<br />

paradise that is home to some of the best shopping centres in the world.<br />

There are said to be about 200 of them in the city, including high-rise<br />

highlights like Central Chidlom (with its unforgettable 7th-floor Food<br />

Loft) and the ultra-chic Siam Paragon (where you can even shop for an<br />

Aston Martin or a Bentley). Less well known, but perhaps among the<br />

quirkiest, is Terminal 21. Styled on an airport concourse, this shopping<br />

centre has 10 floors, each with a different country as its theme. Central-<br />

World is the world’s 11th-biggest shopping centre, but even its 495 stores<br />

pale into insignificance next to Chatuchak Weekend Market.<br />

Boasting 15,000 stalls and attracting about 200,000 people each<br />

weekend, Chatuchak is said to be the world’s biggest market. Within<br />

minutes of entering, I’m already hopelessly lost in what seems to be a<br />

rabbit warren of stalls selling everything you can imagine (minus perhaps<br />

the Aston Martins and Bentleys). This incredible market covers an area<br />

that is about the same as 20 football pitches, and I’ve been in the market<br />

for half an hour when I spot a sign advising me that I’m on Alleyway 61.<br />

It’s afternoon when I eventually emerge onto the road, staggering like a<br />

worker ant under the weight of my purchases, near Alleyway 1.<br />

Chatuchak is best visited on Saturday morning (when many Bangkokians<br />

are still working), as by afternoon, the crowds are already thick<br />

at the sky-train ticket machines. So I flag down a taxi, and in no time I’m<br />

back in the city centre. Thai people know the city simply as Krung Thep.<br />

“Bangkok” is mostly used by foreigners, and dates back three centuries to<br />

a time when the city was a celebrated trading port.<br />

After the subterranean world of Chatuchak Market, it’s a real pleasure<br />

to spend an hour or so basking by the infinity pool that cascades from<br />

the 18th floor of the new Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse. To the<br />

southeast, I can see the city’s tallest tower, MahaNakhon (314 m), looming<br />

over the business centre, etched with its fascinating cubist spiral.<br />

Later I head westwards, enticed by the river. I want to catch a Chao<br />

Phraya Express Boat commuter ferry that will take me down the majestic<br />

sweep of the river towards the old trading area, which was once haunted<br />

by clippers and junks, but is now the evening entertainment area known as<br />

Asiatique The Riverfront. More than 40 restaurants and 1,500 shops have<br />

been established in what were – for many years – abandoned wharf-side<br />

warehouses, traditionally known as “go-downs”.<br />

I’ve come here to check out Asiatique Sky, a giant Ferris wheel that<br />

looms over the ancient wharf. From 60 m above the go-downs, I watch as<br />

the sun begins to bow over the River of Kings, the life-blood of a city,<br />

which, no matter how often you visit, always surpasses expectations.<br />

5 6 8<br />

Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh<br />

Kenya Airways operates non-stop daily<br />

flights to Bangkok from Nairobi’s<br />

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.<br />

1. An iconic tuk-tuk 2. Bangkok’s skyline and the Chao Praya river seen in the evening<br />

3. Asiatique’s shops and ferris wheel 4. Chef Ton at work in Le Du 5. A man reads<br />

the morning paper 6. A couple delivering lunch to boat crews on the Chao Phraya River<br />

7. A Taittinger dinner cruise on the River of Kings 8. Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar


66 / BUSINESS / Book review<br />

“When you<br />

facilitate personal<br />

disruption, you<br />

build an A-Team”<br />

As every coach knows, you don’t win<br />

unless your team does. The same goes<br />

for business. In her latest book, Whitney<br />

Johnson reveals that it’s all about<br />

helping people up the learning curve.<br />

How to hire<br />

Go for potential rather than proficiency.<br />

“We are so harried, we hire someone who<br />

knows how to do the job today − rather<br />

than hire someone who might grow in the<br />

role over the course of many tomorrows,”<br />

writes Johnson. Teams need novices as well<br />

as experts: “Sometimes the best ideas emerge<br />

from not knowing the conventions.”<br />

Learning & growth<br />

For a motivated and engaged team, “personal<br />

disruption” through individual learning is key.<br />

“A manager is a bit like a parent. You push<br />

your charges into uncomfortable situations<br />

and are willing to see them fail to help them<br />

grow,” writes Johnson. The challenge is to<br />

manage, “The movement of people from one<br />

learning curve to the next”. A strong team<br />

includes employees in different developmental<br />

phases.<br />

The sweet spot<br />

“The steep part of the curve is where people<br />

perform proactively. Where they think<br />

creatively. Where they innovate... Ideally, 70<br />

percent of your team will be in this sweet<br />

spot,” writes Johnson. The numbers back this<br />

up: “When challenged, 67 percent of people<br />

will demonstrate above-average creativity.”<br />

About the book<br />

With business anecdotes<br />

and real-life examples<br />

to end-of-chapter<br />

summaries and specific<br />

strategies, Build an<br />

A-Team highlights<br />

the importance of<br />

continuous learning for<br />

all members of a team.<br />

Build an A-Team<br />

Play to Their Strengths<br />

and Lead Them Up the<br />

Learning Curve<br />

Author<br />

Whitney Johnson<br />

Publisher<br />

Harvard Business Review Press<br />

Bio<br />

Whitney Johnson is an expert on<br />

disruptive innovation and personal<br />

disruption, with over 20 years of<br />

experience in coaching, investing<br />

and consulting. She is also a regular<br />

contributor to the Harvard Business<br />

Review.<br />

Pages<br />

208<br />

Summary<br />

Central to this book is the idea<br />

that better morale and higher<br />

performance happen through<br />

learning. Invest in growing your team<br />

in terms of skills and challenges,<br />

stimulating each individual’s<br />

personal career journey, and your<br />

team will grow the company. And<br />

that, as Whitney Johnson shows, is<br />

the basis of an A-Team.<br />

text: Annemarie Hoeve


68 / PHOTO BOOK / Streets of New York<br />

PHOTO BOOK / 69<br />

STREETS OF<br />

NEW YORK<br />

This modern take on the Big Apple contains a<br />

FRESH and DIVERSE collection of images<br />

by photographers from around the world.<br />

text Joost Bastmeijer<br />

New York City, New York<br />

Photo by Pie Aerts<br />

Times Square, Manhattan<br />

Photo by Ivan Meneses


70 / PHOTO BOOK / Streets of New York<br />

PHOTO BOOK / 71<br />

“The city’s diversity<br />

ensures that no<br />

visit here will ever<br />

be the same”<br />

Guggenheim Museum<br />

Upper East Side, Manhattan<br />

Photo by Alessio Radaelli<br />

Manhattan<br />

Photo by Michael G. Young


72 / PHOTO BOOK / Streets of New York<br />

PHOTO BOOK / 73<br />

Rockefeller Center<br />

Theater District, Manhattan<br />

Photo by Patrick Janelle<br />

“The eclectic energy is just<br />

as frantic as the city’s<br />

famous jazz scene”<br />

It’s the trendsetting epicentre of the<br />

arts and one of the best places in the<br />

world to shop and dine. On the streets<br />

of New York, one can walk among the<br />

leaders in fashion, art, design and<br />

commerce. It’s a city that keeps on<br />

evolving, reinventing itself due to a<br />

constant influx of newcomers. New<br />

York has over 200 nationalities, making<br />

it one of the most multicultural cities in<br />

the world.<br />

People from all over the world are<br />

drawn to the Big Apple. A walk through<br />

town can truly feel like crossing the globe.<br />

From the dazzling neon lights of<br />

Chinatown, it’s only a small stroll to the<br />

pizzerias of Nolita, which lie a stone’s<br />

throw away from the hip SoHo and<br />

Greenwich Village neighbourhoods.<br />

There’s no such thing as one New<br />

York. The city’s diversity ensures that<br />

no visit here will ever be the same,<br />

especially considering that, in recent<br />

years, Brooklyn – the massive borough<br />

that breathes “artsy cool” – has become<br />

as popular as Manhattan.<br />

Going beyond the hipster clichés, a<br />

visit to the diverse borough of Queens<br />

will be the perfect mix between an upand-coming,<br />

gentrified neighbourhood<br />

and a multicultural experience (offering<br />

cheap ethnic foods).<br />

The eclectic energy is just as frantic as<br />

the city’s famous jazz scene. Each street<br />

corner has a different flavour to it – a<br />

melody if you will – congregating in tune<br />

with the rhythm of the city. As it used to<br />

be in the metropolises of yore, New York<br />

is about survival of the fittest: a healthy<br />

competition to some, but an exhausting<br />

rat race for others.<br />

Yet, there’s something addictive<br />

about this modern-day Rome, or Cairo.<br />

The Yankee Stadium, the New York<br />

Stock Exchange and Madison Square<br />

Garden are like contemporary coliseums,<br />

and the skyscrapers are the 21st-century<br />

equivalent of the (Great) Pyramids.<br />

Because of the dynamic, movie-set-like<br />

environment, here you can feel western<br />

culture being moulded and shaped from<br />

up-close.<br />

About<br />

Photo book Streets of New York<br />

contains the best, most iconic pictures<br />

that all scream New York. Filled with<br />

perfect moments of the City That<br />

Never Sleeps, it’s the quintessential<br />

book on this great metropolis.<br />

© Streets of New York by MENDO,<br />

published by teNeues.<br />

www.teneues.com, www.mendo.nl<br />

The Manhattan Bridge, Brooklyn<br />

Photo by Pie Aerts


ENTERTAINMENT / 75<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

offers its passengers<br />

complimentary inflight<br />

entertainment.<br />

The programme will<br />

vary in different aircraft<br />

types. Check your<br />

screen to view the<br />

selection on your flight.<br />

Relax & Enjoy<br />

Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />

African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />

games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />

Ready Player One<br />

(read more on the next page)<br />

“You’d be amazed how much<br />

research you can get done when you<br />

have no life whatsoever”<br />

– Wade –<br />

Ready Player One<br />

MOVIE RATINGS<br />

G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />

R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.


76 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT / 77<br />

Movies<br />

Movies<br />

Ready<br />

Player One<br />

SCI-FI<br />

From Steven Spielberg comes a<br />

sci-fi phenomenon based on Ernest<br />

Cline’s bestselling novel of the<br />

same name.<br />

The year 2045 sees earth and its people<br />

besieged by poverty, overcrowding and<br />

energy crises. Humanity’s redemption<br />

comes in the form of an immersive<br />

online gaming platform: the OASIS.<br />

Created by reclusive genius James Halliday<br />

(Mark Rylance), the OASIS allows<br />

the masses to liberate themselves from<br />

their dystopian reality. However, in<br />

exchange they are shackled by their<br />

addiction to the OASIS.<br />

When Halliday dies, he wills ownership<br />

of the OASIS to whomever discovers<br />

the Easter egg he buried within the<br />

game. In their efforts to find it, thousands<br />

of Gunters (egg hunters) devour every<br />

piece of Halliday trivia available and<br />

become consumed by the 80s culture<br />

Halliday was so fond of. One such person<br />

is teenager Wade Watts (Tye Sheridan).<br />

Watts much prefers the OASIS to his<br />

bleak existence in The Stacks, a shanty<br />

village of trailers piled precariously atop<br />

one another. He is joined by four others,<br />

who teach him that perhaps reality is<br />

not so bad after all.<br />

Join the nostalgic thrill-ride that is<br />

Ready Player One onboard Kenya<br />

Airways now!<br />

The Great Gatsby (2013) ROMANCE<br />

A writer and Wall Street trader, Nick, finds himself drawn to the past and<br />

lifestyle of his millionaire neighbour, Jay Gatsby.<br />

Leonardo Dicaprio. PG-13, 143 mins. Director: Baz Luhrmann<br />

Rampage (<strong>2018</strong>) ADVENTURE<br />

When three different animals become infected with a dangerous pathogen, a<br />

primatologist and a geneticist team up to stop them from destroying Chicago.<br />

Dwayne Johnson, Naomie Harris. PG-13, 107 mins. Director: Brad Peyton<br />

Deadpool 2 (<strong>2018</strong>) ACTION<br />

Mutant mercenary Wade Wilson (aka, Deadpool) brings together a team to<br />

protect a boy of supernatural abilities from the brutal mutant Cable.<br />

Josh Brolin, Ryan Reynolds. R, 119 mins. Director: David Leitch<br />

Life of the Party (<strong>2018</strong>) COMEDY<br />

After her husband abruptly asks for a divorce, a middle-aged mother<br />

returns to college in order to complete her degree.<br />

Melissa McCarthy, Debby Ryan. PG-13, 105 mins. Director: Ben Falcone<br />

Overboard (<strong>2018</strong>) COMEDY<br />

A spoiled, wealthy yacht owner is thrown overboard and becomes the target<br />

of revenge from his mistreated employee.<br />

Anna Faris, Eugenio Derbez. PG-13, 112 Mins. Director: Rob Greenberg<br />

Corpse Bride (2005) ANIMATION<br />

When a shy groom practices his wedding vows in the inadvertent presence of<br />

a deceased woman, she rises from the grave assuming he has married her.<br />

Johnny Depp. PG, 77 mins. Directors: Tim Burton, Mike Johnson<br />

Tye Sheridan, Olivia Cooke. PG-13, 140 mins.<br />

Director: Steven Spielberg<br />

Did you know?<br />

~ Steven Spielberg said that Ready Player One was the third-most<br />

difficult movie he has made, behind Jaws and Saving Private Ryan.<br />

~ OASIS is actually an acronym. It stands for Ontologically<br />

Anthropocentric Sensory Immersive Simulation.<br />

White Fang (<strong>2018</strong>) ANIMATION<br />

A boy befriends a half-breed wolf as he searches for his father, who has<br />

mysteriously gone missing during the Gold Rush.<br />

Rashida Jones, Nick Offerman. PG, 85 mins. Director: Alexandre Espigares<br />

The Hatton Garden Job (2017) ACTION<br />

The Hatton Garden Safe Deposit Company was burgled by four elderly men.<br />

The incident has been called, “the largest burglary in English history”.<br />

Matthew Goode, Joely Richardson. R, 93 mins. Director: Ronnie Thompson<br />

Tomb Raider (<strong>2018</strong>) ADVENTURE<br />

Lara Croft, daughter of a missing adventurer, must push herself beyond her<br />

limits when she discovers the island where her father disappeared.<br />

Alicia Vikander, Walton Goggins. PG-13, 118 mins. Director: Roar Uthaug


78 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT / 79<br />

African Highlights<br />

Bollywood<br />

Film<br />

Picks from<br />

Bollywood<br />

We selected some recent comedy, drama and musical titles<br />

from India’s Hindi-language cinema.<br />

Blood Brothers<br />

Love Gone Sour<br />

Film<br />

Picks from<br />

the continent<br />

We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,<br />

including drama and comedy.<br />

After Dark<br />

The Friend Zone<br />

that he is likely to be overlooked for promotion at work as he is unmarried.<br />

Seun Akindele, Mimi Orjiekwe, Tissy Nnachi. PG-13, 114 mins.<br />

Who Cheats More (2017) COMEDY<br />

An engaged man is devastated to learn that his wife-to-be is only using him<br />

for his money. He decides to play her at her own game.<br />

Van Vicker, Eniola Badmus, Ruth Kadiri. PG-13, 105 mins.<br />

Friends or Foes (2017) DRAMA<br />

A deluded, self-proclaimed celebrity stylist takes advantage of three career<br />

women in the entertainment industry.<br />

Belinda Effah, Daniella Okeke, Dabby Chimere. G, 94 mins.<br />

Connection (Raabta) (2017) DRAMA<br />

In 2017, Shiv and Saira fall for each other and<br />

form an inseparable connection, until Saira<br />

crosses paths with a reincarnated lover who’s<br />

determined to make her his lover again.<br />

Deepika Padukone, Rajkummar Rao, Kriti<br />

Sanon. R, 147 mins. Director: Dinesh Vijan<br />

Munna Michael (2017) MUSICAL<br />

A young man, tries to follow the footsteps of his<br />

idol, The King of Pop, Michael Jackson.<br />

Tiger Shroff, Nidhhi Agerwal, Nawazuddin<br />

Siddiqui. R, 140 mins. Director: Sabir Khan<br />

Raid (<strong>2018</strong>) CRIME<br />

A fearless income-tax officer raids the mansion<br />

of the most powerful man in Lucknow after<br />

someone mysteriously draws his attention to it.<br />

Ajay Devgn, Saurabh Shukla, Ileana D’Cruz. R,<br />

122 mins. Director: Raj Kumar Gupta<br />

Veerey Ki Wedding (<strong>2018</strong>) COMEDY<br />

When the most eligible bachelor in Delhi messes<br />

up his first meeting with the father of his beloved,<br />

he receives no wedding blessing.<br />

Pulkit Samrat, Jimmy Sheirgill, Kriti Kharbanda,<br />

R, 131 mins. Director: Ashu Trikha<br />

Love Gone Sour (<strong>2018</strong>) DRAMA<br />

Indika’s love for Ugomma is fiercely tested when<br />

his friend, the prince, also falls in love with her.<br />

The fallout has dire consequences.<br />

Ngozi Ezeonu, Zulu Adigwe, Chizzy Alichi. R,<br />

137 mins<br />

“I just want<br />

to prove that<br />

Michael lives<br />

forever”<br />

– Munna Michael –<br />

Connection (Raabta)<br />

Blood Brothers (<strong>2018</strong>) DRAMA<br />

A greedy man attempts to usurp family assets after the demise of his brother.<br />

However, his nephew decides to take measures to curb his excesses.<br />

Daniel K Daniel, Chinwe Owoh, Cha Cha Eke Faani. R, Theatrical, 132 mins<br />

Gateman (2017) DRAMA<br />

The heir to a fortune decides to learn about his company where he catches<br />

the attention of an employee, making him a prospective love interest.<br />

Benedict Johnson, Ruth Kadiri. PG-13, 137 mins.<br />

After Dark (<strong>2018</strong>) DRAMA<br />

A ghetto boy invites his friend to stay in his mother’s house, only for his<br />

presence to attract danger and propel his life into a different direction.<br />

Daniel K Daniel, Ebele Okaru Onyiuke. R, Theatrical, 136 mins<br />

The Friend Zone (2017) DRAMA<br />

Two good friends find themselves in a predicament when their emotions get<br />

in the way of their friendship.<br />

Ebube Nwagbo, Onyii Alex. R, Theatrical, 97 mins.<br />

Wife for Rent (2016) ROMANCE<br />

An ambitious young man seeks out a wife to rent when a colleague tells him<br />

Isoken (2017) ROMANCE<br />

Although she has what appears to be a perfect life, Isoken is still unmarried<br />

at 34 which, in a culture obsessed with marriage, is serious cause for<br />

concern.<br />

Dakore Akande, Joseph Benjamin, Marc Rhys. PG-13, 100 mins. Director:<br />

Jadesola Osiberu<br />

You, Me And The Guys (2017) COMEDY<br />

A successful CEO brings home the woman of his dreams, but soon his<br />

jobless housemates grow jealous and try to split them up.<br />

Seun Akindele, Linda Ejiofor, Ifeanyi Kalu. PG-13, 92 mins.<br />

Director: Esther Abah


80 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT / 81<br />

TV<br />

Music Channel Explained: The channel number for<br />

your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />

of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,<br />

so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />

Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />

Audio<br />

Spotlight on<br />

Bob<br />

Dylan<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Bob Dylan is seen as one of the<br />

biggest American singer-songwriters<br />

of the 20th century.<br />

Super Bowl LII<br />

City Tour New York<br />

“Living legend” Bob Dylan (1941)<br />

became famous in the sixties for his<br />

anti-war and protest songs, where he<br />

criticises politics and the conduct of the<br />

justice system. Five decades later, Dylan<br />

is still popular. In 2016, he became the<br />

first songwriter to win the Nobel Prize<br />

in Literature, for having created, “new<br />

poetic expressions within the great<br />

American song tradition”.<br />

Lasting Legacy The Grinder Urban Natures<br />

KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />

Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />

biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />

Small Screen<br />

Programmes<br />

& Series<br />

We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />

and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />

Comedy<br />

Life In Pieces, Season 1, Episode 1<br />

As the Short family’s lives unfold in four brief stories each week, they try to<br />

savour the moments that add up to what life’s all about.<br />

Crazy Hidden Camera, Season 1, Episodes 2 & 8<br />

Our compilation show made with the best of our non-dialogue candid<br />

camera gags!<br />

The Grinder, Season 1, Episodes 10 & 11<br />

After his hit series, The Grinder, is cancelled, a famous TV lawyer moves<br />

back home and joins his brother at their family’s real-life law firm.<br />

Sports<br />

Super Bowl LII<br />

The <strong>2018</strong> Super Bowl was one of the most sensational season finales in<br />

52 years of history, setting several records.<br />

Pure Outdoor, Season 1, Episode 1<br />

A look at the eco sports that people have now embraced in their leisure time.<br />

The Road To Russia, Season 1, Episode 1<br />

In this episode, we feature Brazil, one of the teams at the FIFA World Cup<br />

<strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Discovery<br />

City Tour New York, New York, US<br />

Home to the Empire State Building, Times Square, Statue of Liberty and<br />

other iconic sites, New York City is a fast-paced, globally influential centre of<br />

art, culture, fashion and finance.<br />

City Tour San Francisco, California, US<br />

San Francisco is known for its hilly landscape, year-round fog, iconic Golden<br />

Gate Bridge, cable cars and colourful Victorian houses.<br />

Lifestyle<br />

Cities Turn Green, Season 1, Episode 3<br />

Portraits of New York’s urban farmers.<br />

Urban Natures, Season 1, Episode 29<br />

Explore the flora and fauna of urban gardens.<br />

News<br />

Lasting Legacy, Season 2, Episode 1<br />

Lasting Legacy goes behind the scenes of some of the most successful family<br />

businesses, to find out how family life and company strategy cross over.<br />

How To Win At Everything, Season 1, Episode 2<br />

This programme explores human physiology and psychology, physics,<br />

technology and mathematics to show how people can “win” in any scenario.<br />

Drama<br />

The Mentalist, Season 7, Episodes 10 & 11<br />

A famous “psychic” outs himself as a fake, and starts working for the California<br />

Bureau of Investigation to find the man who killed his wife and daughter.<br />

The 100, Season 4, Episodes 1 & 2<br />

Ninety-seven years after a devastating nuclear war wiped out almost all life<br />

on Earth, the only known survivors are the residents of twelve space stations<br />

in Earth’s orbit prior to the war.<br />

African Classics<br />

The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />

from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />

Jazz<br />

Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />

the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />

Pop<br />

Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most-loved<br />

pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />

Dance Hall/Reggae<br />

We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />

diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />

Classical<br />

Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />

awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />

Chinese Pop<br />

The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />

of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />

Easy Listening<br />

Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />

sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />

Meditation<br />

Sit back, relax and de-stress to the ultimate<br />

meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />

“How many years can<br />

some people exist before they’re<br />

allowed to be free?”<br />

– Bob Dylan –<br />

Blowin’ in the Wind


82 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Kids<br />

Animation<br />

Isle Of<br />

Dogs<br />

What to do when your dog is<br />

banished to Trash Island,<br />

together with all the dogs of<br />

the city?<br />

Atari Kobayashi, a 12-year-old boy and<br />

foster child of the corrupt mayor of<br />

Megasaki City, sets out to find his lost<br />

dog Spots at the island full of garbage.<br />

Atari steals a plane and flies to Trash<br />

Island. Together with five new dog<br />

friends he starts an epic journey, with<br />

many obstacles along the way...<br />

This beautiful stop-motion animated<br />

film was written and directed by Wes<br />

Anderson (Moonrise Kingdom, The<br />

Grand Budapest Hotel).<br />

Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin, Edward Norton.<br />

PG-13, 101 mins. Director: Wes Anderson<br />

Film and TV<br />

The Ones to Watch<br />

These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />

If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />

from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />

The Looney Tunes Show<br />

Bugs and Daffy, roomies in LA,<br />

are getting up to all sorts of<br />

misadventures.<br />

Season 2, Episode 2<br />

Justice League Action<br />

Seven of the world’s most formidable<br />

heroes join to form one of the most<br />

powerful teams to ever exist.<br />

Season 1, Episodes 2, 3 & 4<br />

Dorothy and the<br />

Wizard of Oz<br />

Dorothy becomes princess of the<br />

Emerald City after defeating the<br />

Wicked Witch.<br />

Season 1, Episode 1<br />

Harry Potter and the<br />

Half-Blood Prince<br />

As Harry Potter begins his sixth<br />

year at Hogwarts, he discovers an<br />

old book and begins to learn more<br />

about Lord Voldemort's dark past.


SAFARI NJEMA / 85<br />

Kenya Airways’ flights between<br />

Nairobi and New York will begin<br />

on 28 October <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

✈ Kenya Airways flies directly to<br />

Cape Town from Nairobi.<br />

Safari Njema<br />

First-Class Cuisine<br />

Kenya Airways has introduced<br />

a revamped catering service<br />

that is designed to elevate<br />

guests’ experience. This is<br />

part of the airline’s strategy to<br />

review and enhance its service<br />

delivery across all touch points<br />

with the aim of making it<br />

more relevant, authentic and<br />

true to its brand proposition.


KQ launched a carbon<br />

offset programme in<br />

2011, the first African<br />

airline to do so.<br />

News<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 87<br />

✈ KQ is working with USAID to prevent<br />

the trafficking of endangered species.<br />

Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian Mikosz presents some of the new catering service<br />

together with top chef Kiran Jethwa, who created the new menus, and two crew members<br />

Kenya Airways’ guests can now enjoy a<br />

memorable experience that is designed to<br />

reflect African authenticity, hospitality<br />

and simplicity.<br />

“We are delighted to launch our new<br />

catering service,” said Group Managing<br />

Director and CEO Kenya Airways<br />

Sebastian Mikosz. “Providing an unforgettable<br />

experience across the entire<br />

guest journey is our core strategic focus.<br />

Introducing this unique offering is<br />

fundamental to our commitment to<br />

delighting our customers at every touch<br />

point. We feel very excited when a customer<br />

has a positive experience with us.”<br />

Under the new service, the airline has<br />

introduced a culinary experience on its<br />

flights above seven hours that will see the<br />

best African chefs develop onboard<br />

menus. To begin with, Kenya Airways has<br />

partnered with the renowned Kenya-born<br />

chef, Kiran Jethwa, to offer its passengers<br />

an exquisite fusion of culture with Kenyan<br />

ingredients and a touch of African<br />

flavours. “Collaborating with Kenya<br />

Airways has been an amazing experience.<br />

It’s a privilege to be the first chef to<br />

reinvent our national carrier’s onboard<br />

menu,” said Jethwa.<br />

“Our crew has been specially trained by<br />

Chef Kiran to master the art of plating<br />

up business-class dishes,” said Chief<br />

Commercial Officer Kenya Airways<br />

Vincent Coste.”<br />

This renewed service will enable our<br />

guests to experience a wide variety<br />

delicacies and cuisine, accompanied by<br />

personalised service.” Other enhancements<br />

include signature welcome drinks<br />

in business class, which have been<br />

inspired by a tantalising combination of<br />

herbs, indigenous fruits and Kenya’s best<br />

export, tea.<br />

Similarly, environmentally friendly and<br />

easy-to-take-away meal boxes, and a<br />

basket service, have been introduced on<br />

short-sector flights. The baskets have<br />

been hand-woven by various women’s<br />

groups across Africa in line with the airline’s<br />

mission, “sustainable development<br />

in Africa”.<br />

The ease, simplicity and efficiency of these<br />

new services enable the crew to increase<br />

their level of engagement with guests,<br />

supporting Kenya Airways’ positioning as<br />

a customer-centric carrier championing<br />

African culture. The airline is steadily<br />

enhancing its service delivery and shall<br />

unveil new offerings in due course.


88 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

Want to know the carbon<br />

emission of your flight?<br />

Visit climatecare.org<br />

and click on the<br />

carbon calculator.<br />

News<br />

✈ Kenya Airways now flies to<br />

Paris more often, with six direct<br />

flights each week.<br />

JKIA expansion<br />

Airport Upgraded<br />

After carrying out a series of assessment audits,<br />

the US Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has<br />

granted Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)<br />

Category One status, a prerequisite for Kenya<br />

Airways’ forthcoming direct flights between Nairobi<br />

and New York. This is also a major milestone in<br />

the growth and development of civil aviation in<br />

Kenya, East Africa and the rest of Africa.<br />

Based on an FAA assessment of the safety oversight<br />

provided by Kenya Civil Aviation Authority, the rating also<br />

shows Kenya’s compliance with International Civil Aviation<br />

Organisation (ICAO) standards.<br />

Over the last few months, The Ministry of Transport,<br />

Housing and Urban Development has led the implemention<br />

of a raft of recommendations given by the US government<br />

to enhance security, among them separation of passenger<br />

arrival and departure terminals, clearing the flight path and<br />

fencing off the airport.<br />

“We are indeed delighted that JKIA has been granted the<br />

Last Point of Departure status. This will now permit Kenya<br />

Airways to fly direct non-stop to the John F. Kennedy International<br />

Airport as scheduled on October 28, <strong>2018</strong>,” said<br />

Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian<br />

Mikosz. He added that the decision and confidence bestowed<br />

upon Kenya by the US Government was a major milestone to<br />

the growth and development of the aviation industry in Kenya<br />

and the world.<br />

To attain and maintain the top rating, a country must<br />

demonstrate compliance with the safety standards as adopted<br />

and contained in ICAO documents – a UN specialised<br />

agency for aviation that establishes international standards<br />

and recommended practices for aircraft operations and<br />

maintenance.<br />

“JKIA’s Last Point of<br />

Departure status permits<br />

us to begin flying directly<br />

to the US on 28 October”<br />

– Sebastian Mikosz –<br />

Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways<br />

Creating jobs<br />

Environmental<br />

Conservation<br />

With Africa’s population rapidly increasing, there is a<br />

need to increase access to decent jobs. Wildlife Works,<br />

Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting partner, has been<br />

working in the Kasigau Corridor REDD+ Project to<br />

help local communities manage their transition away<br />

from forest destruction and towards sustainable<br />

economic development by utilising job creation as<br />

a core conservation strategy.<br />

Wildlife Works was formed with a simple idea that if you<br />

want wildlife to survive, you have to balance their needs with<br />

the work needs of the local people who share the same environment.<br />

By conserving forests, Wildlife Works receives the<br />

emissions reduction as carbon credits. Through this programme,<br />

over 300 local people have been employed as wildlife rangers,<br />

horticulturalists, seamstresses, foresters, carpenters, construction<br />

workers, drivers, mechanics and administrative personnel.<br />

~ The essence of Wildlife Works’ REDD+ conservation programme is<br />

to create jobs, which remains a priority in rural Kenya. Through job<br />

creation, Wildlife Works is providing a real direct benefit to locals in the<br />

project area.


How many Miles did you<br />

earn while flying to your<br />

current destination? Find out<br />

online with the Flying Blue<br />

Miles Calculator.<br />

Flying Blue<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 91<br />

✈ There are new discounted award<br />

tickets, or Promo Awards, available<br />

every month, saving you up<br />

to 50 percent on Award Miles.<br />

Membership levels<br />

Redeem<br />

Your<br />

Miles!<br />

The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />

Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or<br />

a SkyTeam partner.You can redeem your Miles to fly with<br />

KQ-operated flights or upgrade your seats to Business Class.<br />

There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying<br />

flight you take, you earn Level Miles. When you first enrol, you will be<br />

awarded Ivory status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and ultimately<br />

Platinum. The more you travel with KQ or one of our partner airlines,<br />

the higher your level becomes, which results in you earning more Award<br />

Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />

Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by<br />

Kenya Airways or our SkyTeam partner airlines. Your accumulated<br />

Award Miles remain valid for 20 months, which can be extended every<br />

time you fly with Kenya Airways or one of our SkyTeam partners, if you<br />

fly at least once every 20 months. The total number of Miles credited to<br />

your account depends on the distance you have flown and travel class<br />

that you have chosen.<br />

~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />

Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />

1<br />

Exchange<br />

Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />

any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />

Business Class.<br />

2<br />

Check<br />

Your choice of destination determines the<br />

number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So<br />

please check if you have sufficient Miles for your<br />

choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is<br />

advisable to have flexible date options in case your<br />

initial choice is not available.<br />

3<br />

Redeem<br />

Once you have made your choice, you can<br />

redeem your Award Miles in several ways:<br />

A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in<br />

Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />

or +254 711 024747.<br />

B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to<br />

Flying Blue and then Award Booking.<br />

C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to Spend Miles.<br />

For further information, you can always contact us<br />

at kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />

4<br />

Tax<br />

Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />

will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so<br />

via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any<br />

Kenya Airways office.<br />

5<br />

Easy Does It<br />

Five steps to make<br />

the most of your Miles.<br />

Ticket<br />

Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />

will be sent to you by email.<br />

~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the<br />

event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex<br />

Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the<br />

Award Miles.<br />

~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business<br />

Class when you have already purchased an Economy<br />

Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for<br />

all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in<br />

Business Class.


SkyTeam operates more than<br />

17,000 departures a day to 1,074<br />

destinations in 177 countries, and<br />

offers SkyTeam members 600+<br />

lounges in airports worldwide.<br />

SkyTeam<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 93<br />

✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a<br />

major airline alliance that consists of 20<br />

carriers from 5 continents.<br />

Teamwork<br />

We’re Connected<br />

Over the last two decades, it’s been<br />

SkyTeam’s mission to create the most<br />

seamless travel experience possible across<br />

an extensive global network. The alliance<br />

was founded to help foster collaboration<br />

between 20 member airlines and, in turn,<br />

offer more benefits and incentives to<br />

passengers.<br />

Capturing the essence of this mission,<br />

SkyTeam has launched a new advertising<br />

campaign that celebrates the teamwork<br />

between its members.<br />

The campaign features flight attendants<br />

from each airline who act as ambassadors.<br />

They demonstrate that, by working<br />

together, SkyTeam and its members can<br />

get you to 1,000+ destinations worldwide<br />

faster and more efficiently than ever before.<br />

Together, we offer a wider range of<br />

destinations to choose from, a larger set<br />

of loyalty benefits than any other alliance,<br />

the most extensive fast-track services<br />

worldwide, and a broader choice of lounges<br />

in which to relax.<br />

Here are some behind-the-scenes snaps<br />

from the shoot, but to view the full set of<br />

finished videos, head to skyteam.com.


94 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 95<br />

Global Network<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

will begin flying<br />

to JFK Airport in<br />

New York from<br />

Nairobi’s Jomo<br />

Kenyatta International<br />

Airport in October.<br />

NEW YORK<br />

London<br />

GREAT-BRITAIN<br />

THE NETHERLANDS<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Paris<br />

FRANCE<br />

Kenya Airways Fleet<br />

Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />

Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />

227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />

engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />

56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />

CHINA<br />

SENEGAL<br />

Dakar<br />

Bamako<br />

Freetown<br />

SIERRA LEONE<br />

Monrovia<br />

LIBERIA<br />

Dubai<br />

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />

SUDAN<br />

Khartoum<br />

MALI<br />

Djibouti<br />

DJIBOUTI<br />

Addis<br />

Ababa<br />

COTE<br />

BENIN<br />

NIGERIA<br />

D'IVOIRE<br />

GHANA<br />

Lagos<br />

CENTRAL<br />

SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA<br />

Abidjan Accra<br />

CAMEROON AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />

Cotonou<br />

Juba<br />

Douala<br />

Yaoundé<br />

Bangui<br />

UGANDA<br />

KENYA<br />

Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu<br />

Kigali<br />

NAIROBI<br />

RWANDA<br />

Brazzaville<br />

DEMOCRATIC<br />

REPUBLIC OF<br />

Bujumbura<br />

Kilimanjaro<br />

Mombasa<br />

THE CONGO BURUNDI<br />

Mahé<br />

Kinshasa<br />

TANZANIA<br />

SEYCHELLES<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

Luanda<br />

Moroni/COMOROS<br />

Lubumbashi<br />

ANGOLA<br />

MALAWI<br />

Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />

Ndola<br />

Lilongwe<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

Lusaka<br />

Blantyre<br />

Nampula<br />

Livingstone<br />

Victoria Harare<br />

Falls<br />

Antananarivo<br />

MAURITIUS<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

MADAGASCAR<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Mumbai<br />

INDIA<br />

Bangkok<br />

THAILAND<br />

Guangzhou<br />

Boeing 737-800<br />

Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />

79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />

cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />

sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />

Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />

Boeing 737-700<br />

Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />

70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />

Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />

Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />

Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />

Johannesburg<br />

SOUTH<br />

AFRICA<br />

Cape Town<br />

Maputo<br />

Embraer 190<br />

Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />

51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />

engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />

Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m


96 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

SAFARI HABARI NJEMA //97<br />

The Nairobi National Park<br />

stopover package allows guests<br />

travelling on flight KQ101 from<br />

London Heathrow to enjoy a<br />

wildlife tour during their transit.<br />

Welcome to Kenya<br />

✈ Passengers travelling in<br />

a group of at least ten<br />

(economy cabin) or five<br />

(business cabin), can<br />

request for a group fare.<br />

SOUTH-<br />

SUD A N<br />

E T HIOPIA<br />

Practical tips<br />

Getty Images<br />

Getting around<br />

On Arrival<br />

TO THE CITY<br />

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />

from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />

drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />

VISA<br />

Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />

available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />

prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />

airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />

You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />

the moment of entry.<br />

Health<br />

Emergency services<br />

Dial 999. Note that<br />

ambulance services are<br />

mostly private. Services<br />

include: St Johns<br />

Ambulance +254 72 161<br />

1555 or Kenya Red<br />

Cross Ambulance<br />

+254 71 771 4938.<br />

Hospitals<br />

Nairobi and Mombasa<br />

have good hospitals.<br />

Medical expenses<br />

Make sure you have<br />

adequate travel health<br />

insurance and accessible<br />

funds to cover the cost of<br />

any medical treatment.<br />

Consultations and<br />

treatments will have to<br />

be paid for at the time,<br />

and the costs claimed<br />

back later.<br />

General<br />

Voltage<br />

240 volts AC, using<br />

three-square-pin,<br />

13-amp-type plugs.<br />

Security<br />

It is advisable not to walk<br />

alone in isolated areas<br />

in towns or on beaches,<br />

particularly after dark.<br />

Tipping<br />

Tips are appreciated. Most<br />

hotels/restaurants add a<br />

10 percent service charge.<br />

Water<br />

It is wise to drink or use<br />

only boiled or bottled water,<br />

and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />

Self-drive<br />

Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />

side of the road, and<br />

most cars are right-hand<br />

drive. A current driving<br />

licence with photograph is<br />

accepted for up to a threemonth<br />

stay.<br />

Public transport<br />

Nairobi is the only city with<br />

an effective municipal bus<br />

What & How<br />

service. Local (private)<br />

matatus are the main<br />

means of getting around.<br />

Taxi service Uber operates<br />

in Nairobi and Mombasa.<br />

Photography<br />

Taking photographs of<br />

official buildings, including<br />

embassies, can lead to<br />

detention. Photography is<br />

also prohibited at airports.<br />

Embassies & consulates<br />

All embassies are<br />

located in Nairobi.<br />

ID<br />

You must carry a valid form<br />

of ID with you at all times.<br />

Post office<br />

Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />

Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />

a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />

Telephone/internet<br />

Phone cards may be<br />

bought from post offices<br />

or international call<br />

offices. Emails can be sent<br />

from most hotels.<br />

Money matters<br />

Currency<br />

Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />

Currency regulations<br />

There are no restrictions on<br />

the movement of currency<br />

into or out of Kenya for<br />

currency transactions.<br />

Banking<br />

Banks are generally open<br />

from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />

Mondays to Fridays;<br />

and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />

Saturdays. Banks in<br />

coastal towns open<br />

and close half an hour<br />

earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />

international VISA cards.<br />

Credit cards<br />

Visa and MasterCard are<br />

widely accepted.<br />

Hotel bill payment<br />

Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />

convertible currency.<br />

Most hotels also accept<br />

credit cards.<br />

Gulu<br />

UGA N D A<br />

Lokichokio<br />

Sibiloi<br />

Central<br />

National<br />

Songot 1755 m Island<br />

Park<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Namoratunga<br />

Muruasigar<br />

Stones<br />

2149 m<br />

LAKE<br />

TURKANA<br />

Lodwar<br />

Nasolot<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Maralal<br />

Saiwa<br />

National<br />

Matthew’s Peak<br />

Swamp<br />

Sanctuary<br />

2375 m<br />

Mt Elgon<br />

National<br />

National Park<br />

Kaisungua<br />

Maralal<br />

Reserve<br />

Kitale<br />

3167 m<br />

Samburu<br />

National<br />

Mt Elgon<br />

Kerio Valley<br />

Reserve<br />

Shaba National<br />

4322 m<br />

National Reserve<br />

Reserve<br />

ELDORET<br />

Archer’s Post<br />

LAKE BARING O<br />

Kakamega<br />

Buffalo Springs<br />

Forest Reserve<br />

Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />

National<br />

Meru<br />

Reserve<br />

National Reserve<br />

National<br />

Kakamega<br />

Park<br />

Ndere Island<br />

Nanyuki<br />

National Park<br />

KISUMU<br />

Meru<br />

Mt Londiani<br />

Rusinga Island<br />

Kericho<br />

3000 m<br />

North<br />

Nakuru<br />

Mt Kenya<br />

Kitu<br />

Lake Nakuru<br />

5199 m<br />

National<br />

Mfangango<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Nyerri<br />

Embu<br />

Reserve<br />

Island<br />

Kisii<br />

Muranga’a Mwea<br />

Ruma<br />

Hell’s Gate<br />

National<br />

LAKE<br />

National<br />

National Park<br />

Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />

Park<br />

RIFT VALLEY<br />

VICTORIA<br />

Longonot National Park<br />

Thika<br />

Migori<br />

Narok<br />

NAIROBI<br />

Oi Donyo National Park<br />

Masai Mara<br />

Nairobi<br />

National Reserve<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Chantal van Wessel<br />

TA NZANIA<br />

South<br />

Turkana<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

South<br />

Island<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

RIFT VALLEY<br />

LAKE<br />

MAGADI<br />

Shompole<br />

Conservancy<br />

CHALBI DESERT<br />

Loiyangalani<br />

Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />

OFFICES & AGENTS<br />

Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />

P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />

Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />

Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />

Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />

Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />

JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />

Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />

Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />

Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />

Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />

Kajiado<br />

West<br />

Chyulu Game<br />

Conservation<br />

Area<br />

Amboseli<br />

National Park<br />

Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />

Marsabit<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Losai<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Marsabit<br />

Marsabit<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Tsavo West<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

K ENYA<br />

Tsavo<br />

East<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Voi<br />

Kora<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Moyale<br />

Rahole<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Mwaluganje<br />

Elephant<br />

Sanctuary<br />

Shimba Hills<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Garissa<br />

MOMBASA<br />

Wajir<br />

Tana River<br />

Primate National<br />

Reserve<br />

Malka Mari<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Arabuko<br />

Malindi Marine<br />

Sokoke<br />

National Park<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Malindi<br />

Watamu Marine<br />

National Park<br />

Diani<br />

Kisite Marine National Park<br />

Kisite Marine National Park<br />

Boni<br />

National<br />

Arawale Reserve<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Dodori<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

SOMALIA<br />

INDIAN<br />

OCEAN<br />

100 km


Wangari Maathai, the founder of<br />

Kenya’s Green Belt Movement, an<br />

environmental group, became the<br />

first African woman to win the Nobel<br />

Peace Prize in 2004.<br />

Magical Kenya<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 99<br />

✈ Find a full list of Kenya’s<br />

eco-certified hotels and camps at<br />

ecotourismkenya.org/facility.php<br />

Getty Images<br />

The Lake Turkana Festival.<br />

Kenya’s cultural splendour<br />

Festivals Showcase Kenya<br />

Part of a wealth of cultural attractions<br />

that are available across<br />

the country, Kenya’s vibrant and<br />

exciting festivals present great<br />

opportunities to connect with locals<br />

and experience the country’s<br />

unique cultures.<br />

One such festival is the Maralal International<br />

Camel Derby, which takes place<br />

every year in August to promote the<br />

endowment of Samburu County in<br />

different aspects of tourism, ranging<br />

from northern Kenya’s unique wildlife –<br />

such as the blue necked ostrich and the<br />

Grevy’s zebra – to its exciting sports and<br />

cultural-tourism offering. The event,<br />

which is the only one of its kind in the<br />

world, attracts participation from far and<br />

wide, both locally and internationally. It’s<br />

also a great social occasion that offers a<br />

chance to experience the culture, warmth,<br />

and adventures of the Samburu people.<br />

Still up north, on the southeastern tip of<br />

Lake Turkana, is another unique cultural<br />

event: the annual Lake Turkana Festival,<br />

which takes place in June in Loiyangalani<br />

town on the shores of the Jade Sea. The<br />

event is a showcase of the unique cultural<br />

diversity of the numerous ethnic communities<br />

in Marsabit County through song<br />

and dance.<br />

Another long-running cultural festival<br />

one should consider attending is the<br />

Lamu Cultural Festival, which began in<br />

2001. The three-day festival takes place in<br />

November and is meant to give visitors a<br />

taste of the rich cultural life of the Lamu<br />

– and the surrounding islands – as part of<br />

the larger culture of the Swahili people<br />

who live along Kenya’s coast. The festival’s<br />

activities include dhow-sailing<br />

races, donkey races, traditional henna<br />

paintings, traditional artisan craft-making<br />

and competitive games of bao, which<br />

is regarded as one of the oldest games,<br />

having been played in the region for<br />

thousands of years.<br />

If you would like to explore the culture<br />

of the people living along Lake Victoria,<br />

visit Rusinga Island for the annual<br />

Rusinga Festival, which takes place in<br />

just before Christmas every year. Here,<br />

you will experience the music, food, art<br />

and cultural sports of the Suba people.<br />

In Western Kenya, one can watch weekly<br />

bullfights that pit bulls – representing<br />

respective villages or families – against<br />

each other. The winning bull not only<br />

brings honour to its owner, it brings<br />

entire villages to a standstill in song and<br />

dance; it’s a spectacle worth watching.<br />

Don’t take our word for it. Come and live<br />

the magic of Kenya’s cultural diversity!


SAFARI NJEMA / 101<br />

Cargo<br />

Text: Ben Clark Image: Shutterstock<br />

Pharmaceuticals<br />

Cool Under Pressure<br />

Transporting pharmaceuticals is<br />

highly specialised and requires<br />

strict adherence to handling rules.<br />

Because proper management is<br />

embedded within its practice,<br />

Kenya Airways (KQ) has a solid<br />

basis for special-cargo growth.<br />

Despite the challenges posed by high<br />

temperatures in Africa and varying<br />

infrastructure at African airports,<br />

maintenance of the cold chain – the<br />

temperature-controlled supply chain –<br />

is key to KQ’s service. Pharmaceuticals<br />

often require a 2-8°C range. However,<br />

temperature is not the only factor; air<br />

quality is also important. The carbon<br />

dioxide, oxygen and humidity levels all<br />

affect this cargo, which makes it the most<br />

complicated cold chain to operate. KQ’s<br />

handling facilities are fitted with coldstorage<br />

features that can manage 2-25°C<br />

shipments while maintaining air quality.<br />

In 2013, the International Air Transport<br />

Association (IATA) created the Center<br />

of Excellence for Independent Validators<br />

(CEIV) to improve air-cargo standards<br />

for pharmaceuticals across the board.<br />

CEIV is a resource that airlines can use<br />

to gain new certification. KQ is leading<br />

the way. “We’re looking to expand our<br />

special-cargo product range, so meeting<br />

these new requirements is essential,” says<br />

Acting General Manager of Cargo Peter<br />

Musola. “We’ve already hosted the first<br />

CEIV workshop in Africa, and together<br />

with pharmaceutical industry experts,<br />

we’re identifying certification gaps in our<br />

processes to comply even further with<br />

Good Distribution Practice.”


102 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

KQ won the Best<br />

Business Class in<br />

Africa for five years<br />

in a row from World<br />

Travel Awards.<br />

Get Comfortable<br />

✈ KQ received an International<br />

Safety Award in 2016 and 2017<br />

from the British Safety Council.<br />

What you need to know<br />

Flight Mode<br />

Safety<br />

Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />

take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />

pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />

Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />

and mobile phones may not be used during<br />

take-off and landing.<br />

Hand luggage<br />

Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />

or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />

will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />

seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />

1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />

meal and take some gentle exercise<br />

before your flight.<br />

Travel<br />

On The Move<br />

Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />

2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />

3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />

up and walking in the aisle when<br />

possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />

shoulders and neck.<br />

4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />

journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />

throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />

“To get lost is to<br />

learn the way”<br />

– African proverb –<br />

moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />

drink plenty of water and moderate<br />

your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />

5 When travelling across time zones<br />

your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />

disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />

appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />

some time to adjust to new night and<br />

day cycles when you arrive.<br />

6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />

possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />

body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />

Seat adjustments<br />

Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />

landing.<br />

Infants<br />

Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />

selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />

baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />

Inflight service<br />

A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />

flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />

are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />

courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />

spirits and soft drinks.<br />

Entertainment<br />

Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />

movies and music is available on our long- and<br />

medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />

guide in Msafiri.<br />

Take-off<br />

The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />

take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />

a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />

aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />

are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />

during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />

may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />

Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />

the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />

Landing<br />

After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />

engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />

to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />

engines are off and the doors are open.

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