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ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 5<br />

“These routes grow<br />

tourism, trade and investment,<br />

a goal for <strong>2019</strong>”<br />

Cover Image: Tariq Zaidi<br />

January <strong>2019</strong> edition 153<br />

kenya-airways.com<br />

Off The<br />

Chain<br />

Exploring the<br />

➔<br />

Seychelles<br />

Magical<br />

Metropolis<br />

The best of<br />

Barcelona<br />

FREE<br />

to Take<br />

Home!<br />

January <strong>2019</strong><br />

Tricks in<br />

Dandy<br />

Brazzaville<br />

Kenya Airways World<br />

Travel Awards<br />

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:<br />

2016, 2017<br />

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,<br />

Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,<br />

2016, 2017, 2018<br />

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,<br />

Economy Class: 2011, 2018<br />

Dear guests,<br />

Happy New Year, and warm<br />

greetings as we begin <strong>2019</strong>!<br />

As we start a new year and a new<br />

chapter, it is with a sense of pride and<br />

satisfaction that we look back on a<br />

year that has, in many respects, been<br />

challenging but positive.<br />

In October, we launched our first<br />

non-stop flights between Nairobi to New<br />

York – a historic event for both Kenya<br />

and East Africa. This milestone gives us<br />

the opportunity to offer a unique travel<br />

solution to our guests.<br />

In the same month, we returned to<br />

Gabon with the launch of direct flights<br />

between Nairobi and Libreville. Just a<br />

few months before, we launched nonstop<br />

flights to Cape Town, increasing our<br />

frequencies to South Africa to cater for<br />

the growing number of customers who<br />

travel between Nairobi and the “Mother<br />

City”. These routes not only cater to our<br />

passengers’ needs, they also grow tourism,<br />

trade and investment, a goal for <strong>2019</strong>.<br />

Last year, we unveiled a revamped<br />

catering service. This was designed as<br />

part of our strategy to elevate our<br />

passengers’ experience, by offering more<br />

value and a service that is authentic and<br />

true to our brand proposition: “The<br />

Pride of Africa”.<br />

Sustainability is one of Kenya<br />

Airways’ key values, so we like to feature<br />

achievements in this domain as often as<br />

possible. Now that plastic pollution has<br />

become recognised as a major problem<br />

worldwide, it was especially pleasing<br />

when Kenya banned single-use plastic<br />

bags last year. This step forward was<br />

helped by the desire and commitment<br />

of one man: James Wakibia. We detail<br />

his inspirational story in this month’s<br />

business interview.<br />

Also within the environment theme,<br />

this month’s trend story investigates<br />

innovative methods of agriculture – such<br />

as vertical farming, which requires no soil<br />

and less space than traditional practices<br />

– that are helping to combat the effects of<br />

climate change.<br />

For most of us, the image of a man<br />

dressed exquisitely in flamboyant haute<br />

couture while walking through a rural<br />

African community, would make us<br />

wonder if we were in a dream; but in<br />

Brazzaville, in the Republic of the<br />

Congo, such a sight is commonplace.<br />

Here, local people doing local jobs parade<br />

through the streets during their days off<br />

in immaculate attire, and they are revered<br />

like rock stars. We treat you to a full<br />

exposé of the Sapeurs as we delve into<br />

the history of a fascinating culture.<br />

Thank you most sincerely for flying<br />

with Kenya Airways.<br />

Sebastian Mikosz<br />

Group Managing Director and CEO<br />

Kenya Airways


CONTENTS / 7<br />

Travel & Nature<br />

10 The Lost World<br />

The Meroë Pyramids<br />

18 Travel Essentials<br />

Packing for Seychelles<br />

20 Off The Chain<br />

Spectacular Seychelles<br />

51 Guess And Win<br />

Travel quiz<br />

52 Magical Metropolis<br />

Barcelona guide<br />

30<br />

52<br />

Arts & Culture<br />

13 Habari<br />

Kenya & the world<br />

30 The Oracle Orators<br />

African TED speakers<br />

43 Biko On Board<br />

The inaugural flight to New York<br />

58 Fresh Debonair<br />

The Sapeurs of Brazzaville<br />

Publisher Kenya Airways | Manager Operational Excellence Evelyn Kabui Mwangi Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive<br />

Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Irene Bauer<br />

Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans<br />

Koedijker Contributors Joost Bastmeijer, Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Peter Chege, Shalini Gidoomal, Annemarie Hoeve, Saskia Houttuin, Desiree Hoving, Annette Lavrijsen, Joseph Maina,<br />

Dhaval Patel, Robert Michael Poole, Gijsje Ribbens, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Tariq Zaidi Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków


8 / CONTENTS<br />

Fly Guide<br />

65 Highlights<br />

Inflight entertainment guide<br />

75 Safari Njema<br />

News & service<br />

81 Flying Blue News<br />

83 SkyTeam News<br />

84 Route Maps<br />

89 Cargo<br />

90 Get Comfortable<br />

20<br />

Business<br />

46<br />

36 Aircraft Facts<br />

Parking<br />

38 Crop Up<br />

Vertical farming in Kenya<br />

44 Somalia<br />

At a glance<br />

46 Not My Bag<br />

Interview with James Wakibia<br />

Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.<br />

com Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734<br />

271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Media Nederland CV, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website hearst.nl/hearst-create<br />

No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />

responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and<br />

at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.<br />

CRE A T E


10 / NATURE / Views /<br />

NATURE / 11<br />

The Lost<br />

World<br />

Swept by the desert<br />

sands of Eastern<br />

Sudan, the MEROË<br />

PYRAMIDS are<br />

crumbling tombs of<br />

the powerful Nubian<br />

kings and queens who<br />

ruled this land for<br />

600 years.<br />

text Annemarie Hoeve<br />

WHILE THE ICONIC pyramids<br />

of Giza draw millions of tourists every<br />

year, few people know that Sudan has<br />

more than twice the number of pyramids<br />

as Egypt. Nearly 200 of these stand in<br />

Meroë, an ancient city on the eastern<br />

bank of the Nile, some 200 km northeast<br />

of Khartoum.<br />

They were built around 2,000 years<br />

ago, when Meroë was the capital of the<br />

mighty Kingdom of Kush, which was<br />

centred here between 300 BC and 300<br />

AD, and once dominated the region,<br />

extending into Upper Egypt.<br />

The tombs were looted long ago,<br />

yet ornate reliefs remain, offering a<br />

fascinating glimpse of this great<br />

civilisation. Archaeologists have also<br />

uncovered countless historical treasures,<br />

including horse harnesses, pottery and<br />

coloured glass, indicating early trade<br />

with the Mediterranean.<br />

But perhaps the best treasure of all<br />

is the solitude: you can have this magical<br />

place virtually to yourself.<br />

Kenya Airways flies direct to Khartoum<br />

International Airport from Nairobi’s Jomo<br />

Kenyatta International Airport.<br />

Robert Harding


160<br />

The Seychelles<br />

were once a pirate<br />

hideout. It's thought<br />

that treasure, worth<br />

US$160,000, is still<br />

buried near Anse<br />

Forbans bay on Mahé.<br />

Habari<br />

HABARI / 13<br />

According to the World Health<br />

Organization, Liberia has some<br />

of the world's cleanest cities.<br />

Communication art<br />

Black Royalty<br />

Adeyemi Adegbesan examines<br />

what it has meant to be black<br />

throughout history. Approaching<br />

art as a means of communication,<br />

the artist explores the themes<br />

of royalty and Afrofuturism, by<br />

creating royal portraits of black<br />

contemporary artists, such as<br />

Erykah Badu.<br />

@yung.yemi


14 / HABARI<br />

HABARI / 15<br />

The Royal Palace, on Dam<br />

Square, was Amsterdam’s<br />

grand city hall until Napoleon’s<br />

brother Louis declared himself<br />

King of Holland in 1806.<br />

Nairobi<br />

Monrovia, the capital of Liberia, is<br />

named after James Monroe, the<br />

fifth US President.<br />

Underneath one of New York’s<br />

most famous hotels, the Waldorf<br />

Astoria, is a “secret” train<br />

platform that’s an extension of<br />

Grand Central Station.<br />

What’s On<br />

Rising to a height of 828 m,<br />

Dubai’s Burj Khalifa is the world’s<br />

tallest building.<br />

Taste of India<br />

Open House<br />

Restaurant<br />

If only the two brothers who<br />

own Open House Restaurant<br />

would share their secret.<br />

Although this Indian restaurant<br />

has been here for over 13 years,<br />

it feels like forever. From chilli<br />

paneer to butter chicken and<br />

Malai kebab, the food here is<br />

all delectable. You can make a<br />

great meal for a week, a month<br />

or even a year, but to do it consistently<br />

for over a decade is<br />

rare culinary magic.<br />

Authenticity is at the core of<br />

the menu and experience. For<br />

a slice of India while staying in<br />

town, this is where you should<br />

hang your hat.<br />

~ openhouserestaurant.co.ke<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Animal art<br />

Kioko Art<br />

Gallery<br />

A renowned global sculptor,<br />

Kioko Mwitiki is known for<br />

turning scrap metal into art.<br />

Sculptures of animals are his<br />

forte, an ode to our national<br />

pride that brings wildlife closer<br />

to people. His creations are on<br />

display at Jomo Kenyatta<br />

International Airport as well<br />

as on the green lawns of the<br />

State House. Check out his<br />

small and cosy new gallery in<br />

Nairobi Lavington, along<br />

James Gichuru Road.<br />

~ @kiokoartgallery<br />

“The younger<br />

generation needs<br />

to know where<br />

they came from”<br />

– Jocktan Makeke –<br />

Award<br />

Sarova Stanley<br />

The five-star Sarova Stanley hotel recently won a World Luxury<br />

Hotel Award as Africa’s Top Luxury Historical Hotel 2018. The<br />

oldest hotel in Nairobi – established in 1902 – the Stanley has<br />

hosted world leaders, renowned authors and international celebrities.<br />

The Sarova hotel chain is the largest indigenous, privately<br />

owned hotel group in Kenya. Stay at any of its locations across<br />

the country to learn why this chain is a consistent winner.<br />

~ sarovahotels.com<br />

Nightlife<br />

Kiza Lounge<br />

Nairobi at night goes hard, never home. Want to plug into the<br />

electric nature of the city? The upscale club Kiza Lounge is just<br />

the place. Here, the party gets going just after 11 p.m. The music<br />

is legendary, with the best DJs in town on the decks pelting you<br />

with the latest hits. So, did you pack your dancing shoes?<br />

~ kizalounge.co.ke<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko<br />

Habari text: Joost Bastmeijer & Saskia Houttuinen<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Sports equipment<br />

Run like a Kenyan<br />

If Kenya has some of the world’s best<br />

runners, why is there no such thing as a<br />

Kenyan running shoe? That’s the question<br />

asked by the founders of Enda, who create<br />

running shoes that are made in Kenya.<br />

Enda incorporates the country’s history,<br />

culture and skills in its products. A pair of<br />

these kicks comes in black, red or green –<br />

the colours of Kenya’s flag – and can be<br />

yours for US$100.<br />

~ ke.endasportswear.com<br />

Car show<br />

Perfect for petrolheads<br />

Classic car owners, collectors, experts and enthusiasts, take note. The annual<br />

London Classic Car Show will take place from 14 to 17 February. Dealers,<br />

manufacturers, clubs and cars will be under one roof at ExCeL London.<br />

There’s an indoor road upon which the cars are paraded.<br />

~ thelondonclassiccarshow.co.uk<br />

Valentine’s Day<br />

Romantic Times<br />

Looking for a place to spend<br />

Valentine’s Day? There’s no<br />

better place to say “I love you”<br />

than New York’s Times Square.<br />

At one of the most special<br />

locations in the Big Apple, you<br />

can even surprise your spouseto-be<br />

with a proposal on a huge<br />

LED screen. On 14 February,<br />

Times Square will also be the<br />

stage for several wedding<br />

ceremonies and vow renewals.<br />

~ timessquarenyc.org<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Q&A<br />

Amateur<br />

Night<br />

“Amateur Night at the Apollo” has been a<br />

stepping stone for black artists like Ella<br />

Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, Jimi Hendrix,<br />

Stevie Wonder and D’Angelo. A performance<br />

on the New York stage can be the<br />

start of a great career, but you have to make<br />

it past C.P. Lacey, aka “The Executioner”.<br />

What is your role as The Executioner?<br />

It’s my job to rid the stage of all unwanted acts. Once<br />

the “crowd boo meter” reaches a certain height, the<br />

siren wails and that’s my cue to get them out of here,<br />

while singing and tap dancing.<br />

You’re famous for your outfits. What’s your favourite?<br />

Of all my many Executioner costumes, the James<br />

Brown outfit suits me best. You can’t think about the<br />

Apollo Theater and not think of the “Godfather of<br />

Soul”.<br />

Amateur Night has launched many careers, including<br />

James Brown’s. What do you need to survive it?<br />

You need three very important things: talent, talent<br />

and talent. That’s all the audience will allow on stage.<br />

Sorry, but nice clothes and a cute face won’t get you<br />

by on the Apollo stage.<br />

~ apollotheater.org/amateur-night<br />

Shahar Azhan


16 / HABARI<br />

HABARI / 17<br />

Most houses in Amsterdam’s<br />

canal belt were built on<br />

wooden poles in the 17th<br />

century, which explains why<br />

so many are now crooked.<br />

The Bight of Benin, in the Gulf of Guinea,<br />

was known as the Slave Coast due to its<br />

association with the Atlantic slave trade.<br />

Until 2015, Dubai had no<br />

addresses or postcodes. Now,<br />

every house has a unique<br />

10-digit code to help identify it.<br />

Music & Culture<br />

The world’s biggest cruise ships are<br />

registered in Liberia. This is due to its<br />

relaxed employment laws.<br />

Festival<br />

Zanzibar’s Cultural Landmark<br />

From 7 to 10 February, the Sauti za Busara Festival will celebrate<br />

African music on one of East Africa’s most beautiful and wellknown<br />

islands: Zanzibar. Over 400 musicians perform live on<br />

three stages in unique venues, such as Stone Town’s Old Fort.<br />

The lineup includes: Afrigo Band (Uganda); Mokoomba (Zimbabwe);<br />

Mkubwa Na Wanawe Crew (Tanzania); Hoba Hoba Spirit<br />

(Morocco); Dago Roots (Réunion); and Lydol (Cameroon).<br />

~ busaramusic.org<br />

Jackson Biko<br />

The Hand That<br />

Rocks The Cradle<br />

I ended 2018 with some rather deep introspection, because I<br />

decided that, in <strong>2019</strong>, I would not tolerate people who don’t<br />

punctuate their WhatsApp messages; especially those who write<br />

“am” when they mean “I’m”. That breed, specifically, gets my<br />

goat. This introspection happened by mistake.<br />

I was at a café nursing a masala tea as I waited for an interviewee<br />

whose Uber had mistakenly taken him to an abattoir on<br />

the other side of town. (Things happen for a reason.) I thought<br />

to myself, “What does my left hand do exactly?” Because with<br />

my right hand I eat, point at things, scratch my face, elbow<br />

away the armrest from the chap on seat 54C, and poke in my<br />

PIN code at the ATM. My right hand squeezes shower gel and<br />

lemons and tubes. I even use it when someone asks me to check<br />

their temperature, which, unfortunately, is not as often as I<br />

would like.<br />

“Uber had mistakenly<br />

taken him to an abattoir<br />

on the other side<br />

of town”<br />

So what on Earth does my left hand do apart from fixing<br />

my watch to my wrist? (The sun can also tell the time.) Because<br />

even when I dream, I never dream that I’m using my left hand;<br />

it’s always my right hand that frantically waves off the burly<br />

man in a straw hat, approaching me with a teaspoonful of<br />

cough syrup. (Don’t ask.) My left hand isn’t as coordinated as<br />

my right hand. Hot tea never burns it. Yet it expects the same<br />

treatment as my right. I think it’s unfair. So right there, sipping<br />

my masala (with my right hand, no less), I decided that my left<br />

hand had to earn its keep.<br />

So this year, apart from not tolerating poorly written<br />

WhatsApp messages, my New Year’s resolution is to use my left<br />

hand more, and see if it will adapt to being my go-to hand. (I<br />

realise that this might lead to some hypocrisy regarding my<br />

WhatsApp New Year’s resolution.) I’ll try to be ambidextrous. I<br />

can’t wait to start greeting folk with my left hand. Because most<br />

right-handed people think they own the world, they will always<br />

assume and extend their right hand in greeting. I will be, quite<br />

rightly, extending my left hand; then we’ll see who’s boss.<br />

You might not be able to tell, but I’m continuing to write<br />

this last part of the article after taking a week’s break. A lot has<br />

happened, key being that I’m starting to regret this New Year’s<br />

resolution. First, eating food with my left hand is proving to be<br />

tedious. Apart from it taking so long, I now eat like a baby:<br />

food keeps falling off my spoon. My WhatsApp messages are<br />

replete with typos, and sometimes typos lead you to abattoirs.<br />

It’s hard to open a bottle of wine with your left hand, especially<br />

if you’re trying to come across as debonair, cultured and sexy. I<br />

look like an oaf. But if you manage to get through that embarrassment,<br />

you’ll realise that pouring wine into a glass using<br />

your left hand looks exotic and suave. It feels French.<br />

But I shall stick to this New Year’s resolution and join the<br />

ranks of famous left-handed men and women like Oprah,<br />

Morgan Freeman and Lady Gaga; hell even Justin Bieber is<br />

left-handed. The thing with left-handed folk is that they aren’t<br />

in your face; they don’t extend their right hand in greeting<br />

assuming everybody is right-handed. I bet it’s the right-handed<br />

brigade that coined the phrase, “extend a helping hand”. It just<br />

seems like something a right-handed person would say.<br />

I will keep up with this for a little while longer. Let’s see<br />

where it leads.<br />

Illustration: Hannah Wieslander<br />

Film costumes<br />

Pre-Colonial<br />

Fashion<br />

“I’m inspired by the pure African life before and during colonialism,”<br />

says Jocktan Makeke, a Tanzanian costume artist who<br />

creates traditional outfits for use in films and music videos. “My<br />

designs are reimagining pre-colonial African culture and history,<br />

using the by-product from animals and plants, such as skins,<br />

bones, animal horns and bark,” says Makeke. “Other African<br />

fashion designers only work with African prints, like khanga<br />

kitenge and batiki. They’re not pure African traditional designs.<br />

To me, it’s very important that we pass on our own traditional<br />

customs to the younger generation. They need to know where<br />

they came from in order to preserve and maintain our culture.”<br />

Makeke says he wants to take his fashion designs to the next level<br />

this year. “I’m presenting my own fashion event, ‘I AM<br />

MAKEKE <strong>2019</strong>’. It’s my goal to promote African culture all<br />

over the world, through fashion.”<br />

xxxxxx<br />

Concert<br />

Jazz on The<br />

Rocks<br />

A combination of the South<br />

African summer sun, a glass<br />

of South African wine and<br />

some jazz tunes in a truly magnificent<br />

location, Jazz on The<br />

Rocks has it all. Jazz fanatics<br />

from all over South Africa<br />

flock to this five-day event,<br />

which starts on 28 February.<br />

The festival is held near<br />

Paternoster, right in the Cape<br />

Columbine Nature Reserve.<br />

~ jazzontherocks.net<br />

Alamy<br />

Playlist<br />

Feelgood Tunes<br />

Since Spotify found its way to<br />

South Africa earlier this year, there<br />

are now some catchy playlists<br />

online. Here’s a favourite.<br />

Feel good look good<br />

Start <strong>2019</strong> in a positive way by<br />

tuning into this up-tempo playlist,<br />

with artists like Yemi Alade and<br />

Kelly Khumago.<br />

~ spotify.com<br />

Peter Bennett<br />

Getty Images


18 / TRAVEL / Essentials<br />

Central Park in New York has been<br />

featured in more films than any<br />

other location in the world.<br />

Packing for Seychelles<br />

Ndola is the capital of the<br />

Copperbelt province in<br />

Zambia. It’s also one of the<br />

country’s biggest cities.<br />

Hardcover photo book of mesmerising<br />

moonlit landscapes by Darren Almond.<br />

US$70, Taschen.<br />

12.0 megapixel<br />

water-resistant<br />

digital camera,<br />

Olympus Tough<br />

TG-5, US$448.<br />

Olympus.<br />

Swimming<br />

shorts,<br />

US$95. Okun.<br />

Beoplay H8i wireless<br />

headphones cancel<br />

out any “annoying”<br />

wave noises,<br />

US$399. Bang &<br />

Olufsen.<br />

Clement Black Apricot<br />

sunglasses, US$60.<br />

Komono.<br />

Sybile shell<br />

choker necklace,<br />

US$198. Heimat<br />

Atlantica.<br />

Bikini: Bill Bra<br />

(US$110) and Bill<br />

Bottom (US$185), for<br />

that flattering 1950s<br />

shape. Norma Kamali.<br />

Aurélie Turtle<br />

Drop Earring: a<br />

gold-plated version<br />

of the Seychelles’<br />

symbol, US$95.<br />

Aurélie Bidermann<br />

Carry-All Tote:<br />

a paper straw<br />

tote bag with<br />

leather strap.<br />

Perfect for<br />

carrying books<br />

to beaches,<br />

US$113.<br />

Arket.<br />

Be the bestdressed<br />

snorkeller on<br />

the island in the<br />

Hightide Wetsuit,<br />

US$265. Cynthia<br />

Rowley.<br />

Selection: Gijsje Ribbens


20 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />

TRAVEL / 21<br />

OFF THE<br />

CHAIN<br />

Modern tourism, pristine beaches, rare<br />

animals and environmental protection all<br />

meet in the SEYCHELLES, some 1,500 km<br />

east of the mainland.<br />

text Robert Michael Poole<br />

Male Red Fody sits on a<br />

plant. Right page: Petite<br />

Anse bay, Mahé.<br />

Getty Images<br />

Robert Michael Poole


22 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />

TRAVEL / 23<br />

FLYING DUE east from Nairobi to the Seychelles islands,<br />

my imagination is filled with vibrant Technicolor images of<br />

exotic nature and landscapes, and luxurious resorts overlooking<br />

some of the world’s finest palm-fringed beaches. What surprises<br />

me, however, is that the most colourful spot of all stands in the<br />

heart of the capital, Victoria, as a monument to the diversity of<br />

history and culture that has passed through the islands of this<br />

very young and tiny country.<br />

Just off Revolution Avenue in the tiny capital city on the<br />

main island – Mahé – the Hindu temple Arul Mihu Navasakthi<br />

Vinayagar ascends from the ground in layers of decorative<br />

figurines depicting Hindu gods and deities in bright blue, yellow<br />

and pink. Named after the Hindu god of safety and prosperity,<br />

the temple is a reminder that these tiny isles lay on ocean trade<br />

routes between India, Africa and the Middle East. It turns out<br />

that the nation’s short history is as rich in culture as it is in<br />

flora and fauna.<br />

Even the names on the tourist map of the town have me<br />

enthralled: Sham Peng Tong Plaza, the Pierre Poivre Statue and<br />

the Victoria Clock Tower all speak of the country’s heritage.<br />

The Seychelles are named after Jean Moreau de Séchelles,<br />

former King of France Louis XV’s Minister of Finance during<br />

French rule, before the islands were passed to the British (but<br />

were settled by native Africans). My self-made walking tour of<br />

the tiny capital quickly gives me a sense of the pace and heartbeat<br />

of a nation – relaxed, proud and confident – that’s like a<br />

Caribbean island in different waters.<br />

The Victoria Clock Tower, which dates back to the colonial<br />

era and was built as a memorial to Queen Victoria, has been a<br />

focal point since its construction 115 years ago; the Seychelles<br />

has exactly one island for every one of those years. The 115<br />

islands, which form an archipelago, stretch from the fabled<br />

UNESCO-listed coral-rich Aldabra – discovered centuries ago<br />

by Arab traders – to private eco-islands such as Frégate Island<br />

Private, and the modern Instagram star island of La Digue,<br />

where I’m keen to see if the Anse Source d’Argent rock beach<br />

lives up to expectations.<br />

A TALE OF TWO BEACHES<br />

Before venturing off to islands afar, I decide to split my<br />

Mahé experience between north and south, from the secluded<br />

and sedate Vista Do Mar in the north, to the truly splendid<br />

Petite Anse bay farther south. And that means getting four<br />

wheels; a decision that turns out to be an unanticipated stroke<br />

of genius, since I quickly discover that Mahé is a joy for drivers.<br />

Full of winding mountainside roads enveloped in thick jungle,<br />

it’s a challenge to avoid stopping to admire all the panoramic<br />

views and filling umpteen memory cards with idyllic seascape<br />

images. ><br />

“I swap four wheels for two, and quickly find myself<br />

saying ‘hello’ to fellow cyclists while riding<br />

around town”<br />

Where to stay<br />

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles and<br />

Desroches Island<br />

A jewel in the Four Seasons crown, FS<br />

Seychelles has a new sister on the nearby<br />

Desroches Island too. Petite Anse, Mahé.<br />

fourseasons.com<br />

Frégate Island Private<br />

Frégate offers a private island that has<br />

pioneered sustainability and the ecolodge<br />

concept. Frégate Island Private. fregate.com<br />

Le Domaine de L’Orangeraie<br />

The only high-end option on La Digue is ideal<br />

for honeymooners, and has a pool bar well<br />

worth a visit, even if you can’t get a room.<br />

Anse Sévère, La Digue. orangeraie.sc<br />

Le Repaire Boutique<br />

Pearched on the beachfront, this hotel is<br />

close to the centre of town. The staff can<br />

help arrange excursions. Anse La Réunion,<br />

La Digue. lerepaireseychelles.com<br />

Above: Common<br />

White Terns (top);<br />

Kids riding their bikes<br />

to school, La Digue<br />

(bottom left); Creole<br />

House, La Digue<br />

(bottom right). Right:<br />

Anse Soleil tropical<br />

beach, Mahé (top);<br />

Denis Private Island<br />

(bottom left); Tropical<br />

fruit (bottom right).<br />

Robert Harding, Alamy


24 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />

TRAVEL / 25<br />

Catamaran in front<br />

of granite rocks,<br />

Curieuse island.<br />

“The cherry on top,<br />

though, is the series of<br />

seven beaches”<br />

Robert Harding


26 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />

TRAVEL / 27<br />

Left page: St. Paul’s Church<br />

in Albert Street, Victoria,<br />

Mahé (top); Honeymoon<br />

paradise (bottom left);<br />

Hindu Azul Mihu Navasakthi<br />

Vinayagar Temple on Quincy<br />

Street, Victoria, Mahé<br />

(bottom right)<br />

Right: Local men<br />

(left); The Victoria<br />

Clock Tower in<br />

Victoria, Mahé (right)<br />

Robert Harding, Robert Michael Poole<br />

Many resorts are entirely self-contained in the Seychelles,<br />

but on Mahé, the Beau Vallon bay offers a stretch of beach<br />

shared by multiple hotels and restaurants. It marks the start<br />

and end point of the North Coast Road, which loops right<br />

around the northern tip of Mahé, always clinging tightly to<br />

the water’s edge. In one secluded spot, I settle down for two<br />

nights at Bliss Hotel, a rustic boutique property that recalls<br />

Mexico’s seaside town of Tulum. Stylish beach beds made of<br />

driftwood face Praslin island, and when the tide is out, the<br />

elegant façade of the hotel can be seen from under the palm<br />

trees, and farther away on the golden sand beach.<br />

Facing westwards on the south side, the Four Seasons<br />

Seychelles offers views over the beach below too, but with a<br />

very different vibe. Even as an experienced traveller, I find myself<br />

in awe of the natural surroundings here; the villas – all with<br />

private pools – cascade down a mountain side, half-encircling<br />

the crescent-shaped bay like a Greek theatre. The sunsets here<br />

are among the most beautiful I’ve ever witnessed, and I make a<br />

point of rising early to climb above the entire sprawling complex,<br />

where a rocky outcrop makes for an ideal yoga spot.<br />

IN THE LAND OF GIANTS<br />

Getting between the islands, I have a few options to consider,<br />

but none gives a better view than helicopter, and ZilAir offers<br />

rides to dozens of destinations from right next to Seychelles<br />

International Airport. I head to Frégate Island Private, playing<br />

a game of spot the swimming turtle, while flying over the calm<br />

waters to the small island now famous for three outstanding<br />

qualities.<br />

The first discovery here is the beautifully wild nature. And<br />

that’s taken a vast effort to achieve: years of intensive agriculture<br />

had removed all woodlands and animal species, but since<br />

2014, Frégate Island Private has become a world-leading icon<br />

of ecology, with 10,000 indigenous trees replanted – including<br />

the return of rarities like Wright’s Gardenia and the Indian<br />

mulberry – and the recovery of the near-extinct Seychelles<br />

Magpie Robin. Rare and endangered day-nesting turtles<br />

frequent the beaches, and most fun of all, 2,200 giant tortoise<br />

call the island their home. During one morning here, I’m<br />

offered breakfast high in the forest canopy amid the homes<br />

of 13 species, all vying for my croissants; some are more<br />

brave than others to steal my morning meal.<br />

Skirting the coast of the island are private pool villas,<br />

immaculate home-away-from-home residences designed<br />

for families or couples. Immense in scale, they’re the height<br />

of private-island holidaying. I can’t think of what to ask<br />

my butler for, since all the luxury of nature and hospitality<br />

is already at my fingertips. It’s a question of whether to<br />

enjoy the surroundings on a daybed, in a pavilion, ><br />

“The Victoria Clock Tower…<br />

has been a focal point since its construction<br />

115 years ago”<br />

What not to miss!<br />

There are a lot of inspiring adventures<br />

to take advantage of in the Seychelles.<br />

Here are a few fun suggestions.<br />

Marianne Rock<br />

One of the best diving sites in the Seychelles, expect<br />

underwater dramatic rock formations and keep an eye<br />

out for grey reef sharks, whale sharks, giant moray eels,<br />

turtles and more.<br />

On Yer Bike<br />

The best way to get around La Digue; cycle through<br />

canopied tunnels and over the hills to reach quiet beach<br />

coves, and enjoy cruising back down on your return to<br />

town.<br />

Do Go Chasing Waterfalls<br />

A short walk and easy find from Port Launay Road – on<br />

Mahé’s west coast – Sauzier Waterfall offers a cool and<br />

refreshing spot you can even jump into.<br />

Hike The Eagle’s Nest<br />

The peak of La Digue is a mere 333 m, but with other<br />

islands in close sight and a small restaurant on top, it’s<br />

the most idyllic sunset-viewing spot around.<br />

Creole Festival<br />

Held each October over 7-10 days, this island-wide<br />

festival includes musical shows, art fairs, dance and<br />

theatre. Make sure to catch the parade in Victoria, which<br />

includes contingents from Creole-speaking neighbours:<br />

Madagascar, Rodrigues, Réunion and Mauritius.


28 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />

TRAVEL / 29<br />

Left: Bleached coral reef<br />

(top); People walking<br />

along Market Street in<br />

Victoria, Mahé (bottom<br />

left); Tropical fruit at the<br />

market, Mahé (bottom<br />

right).<br />

“The beaches here truly<br />

trump anything I’ve ever<br />

encountered”<br />

or in my Jacuzzi.<br />

The cherry on top, though, is the series of seven beaches,<br />

one of which, Anse Victorin, has been named the world’s best.<br />

Its combination of soft white sand, coconut palms and granite<br />

stones are all to be admired, but for me, the real beauty is how<br />

easy it is to have everything to yourself.<br />

“Even as an experienced traveller,<br />

I found myself in awe of the natural<br />

surroundings here”<br />

Where to eat<br />

La Grande Maison<br />

The home kitchen of chef Christelle<br />

Verheyden serves delights like Creole<br />

bouillabaisse, tapas for lunch and has<br />

a tropical garden and live music too.<br />

La Plaine St. André, East Coast Road,<br />

Au Cap. @lgmsey<br />

Chez Jules Cafe<br />

Hidden on the east coast of La Digue with<br />

sea views, expect grilled fish fillet, octopus<br />

salad and more fine fare. Anse Banane, La<br />

Digue. @ChezJulescafe<br />

La Plaine St. Andre<br />

Located in a former Plantation House founded<br />

in 1792 along with a rum distillery, this<br />

restaurant offers traditional food and some<br />

modern Creole cuisine too. La Plaine, East<br />

Coast Road, Anse Royale. takamakarum.com<br />

Marie Antoinette<br />

Dine in this century-old house from a menu<br />

unchanged in 46 years, including bat curry.<br />

Serret Road, Mahé. marieantoinette.sc<br />

RUSTIC CHARM<br />

I leave La Digue – named after a French ship – until last,<br />

dropping in by helicopter to the island’s west coast, where the<br />

only town is located. Consisting of a few rustic and romantic<br />

lanes leading to guesthouses, cafés and small stores, it’s clear<br />

that La Digue offers another alternative to the islands I’ve<br />

already explored: a chilled and easy-going location where the<br />

younger travellers can mingle.<br />

Here, I swap four wheels for two, and I quickly find myself<br />

saying “hello” to fellow cyclists while riding around town.<br />

Better still, it’s here where I have the chance to try the local<br />

Creole cuisine, including rougay, a dish of salted fish in tomato<br />

and onion sauce, fried up with garlic, chilli and ginger and<br />

served on rice. The smoother coconut curry, however, quickly<br />

becomes my daily favourite.<br />

Cycling south, most visitors head for Anse Source d’Argent,<br />

where massive granite rocks tumble into the ocean in a scene<br />

that’s reminiscent of a lost world. The reality is, though, that<br />

you’ll need to come early to find tranquillity here. You’ll also<br />

need to pick the right season since the waters are sometimes<br />

thickly carpeted in seaweed. I advise pedalling the hilly roads<br />

south, getting in some exercise en-route to the three giant<br />

coves that face southeast: Pointe Grand Anse, Pointe Petite<br />

Anse, and Pointe Anse Cocos.<br />

The beaches here truly trump anything I’ve ever encountered.<br />

Fringed with rocks that are deceivingly shiny and metallic,<br />

the beaches’ soft sands have a pink hue when the clear waters<br />

wash over them, and the sea itself is like a pristine warm bath:<br />

the waves creating a natural Jacuzzi effect. It’s fitting, then,<br />

that my last stop is the place I’d be most keen to return to<br />

next time, ready to explore so many more of the islands the<br />

Seychelles has to offer.<br />

➔<br />

Plan your trip<br />

Book your flight to the Seychelles<br />

on kenya-airways.com<br />

Robert Harding, Alamy, Robert Michael Poole<br />

Lagoon surrounded<br />

by typical granite<br />

rocks on La Digue.


30 / PEOPLE / TED speakers<br />

PEOPLE / 31<br />

The Oracle<br />

Orators<br />

“Every woman has the<br />

right to make choices for<br />

herself”<br />

As Africa hosts pioneering global TED<br />

conversations and independent events, some<br />

remarkable TED TALKS from African speakers<br />

are inspiring millions of people.<br />

text Shalini Gidoomal<br />

Mercy<br />

Akuot<br />

Born<br />

Bor, South Sudan<br />

Age<br />

25<br />

Current Location<br />

Kakuma Refugee Camp, Kenya<br />

Best known for<br />

Support work with women who have<br />

experienced perilous personal situations<br />

Milestone<br />

Escaping from a forced marriage in South<br />

Sudan<br />

Follow<br />

‪@AkuotMercy<br />

TED Talk<br />

How I escaped child marriage to<br />

become a women’s rights activist.<br />

(TEDxKakumaCamp 2018)<br />

BY HER EARLY teens, Mercy Akuot had been<br />

displaced twice. First by the outbreak of civil war in<br />

South Sudan – that forced her family to flee to Uganda<br />

– and then later by a marriage arranged by her parents,<br />

which left her with a man of 56 when she was just 15.<br />

Escaping that union forced her first into foster care,<br />

and then to Kenya to the relative safety of Kakuma<br />

Refugee Camp.<br />

Arriving at the parched dry lands of northern<br />

Kenya in 2015 was tremendously hard. She had no<br />

money and knew nobody. Living alone, she barely had<br />

sufficient food from rations to survive as she began her<br />

life yet again. But Akuot has a fierce resilience and an<br />

eloquent way of presenting herself; characteristics that<br />

quickly earned her a job as a team supervisor with the<br />

Danish Refugee Council, monitoring and mentoring<br />

women who have undergone similar experiences. She<br />

earns the maximum amount allowable to a refugee<br />

– US$100 each month – while she teaches life skills<br />

and helps women deal with trauma.<br />

In the three years she’s been at the camp, Akuot<br />

has created a remarkable life from nothing. She met,<br />

and is now living with, a fellow South Sudanese with<br />

whom she has a child. They’re both following their<br />

love for music: she’s a singer and he’s a producer.<br />

This passionate and pragmatic combination singled<br />

her out as a perfect choice for the June 2018 TEDx<br />

event, which was the first to be held in a refugee camp.<br />

It also serves Akuot’s wider ambitions. She wants to<br />

study PR or journalism to take her cause to an international<br />

level. Like most refugees, she also dreams of<br />

resettlement.<br />

UNHCR/Tobin Jones


32 / PEOPLE / TED speakers<br />

PEOPLE / 33<br />

Dr Dixon<br />

Chibanda<br />

Sisonke<br />

Msimang<br />

Born<br />

Harare, Zimbabwe<br />

Born<br />

Manzini, Swaziland<br />

Age<br />

50<br />

Age<br />

44<br />

Current Location<br />

Harare, Zimbabwe<br />

Current Location<br />

Perth, Australia<br />

Best known for<br />

Pivotal role in bringing mental health treatment to<br />

the masses<br />

Milestone<br />

Bringing the Friendship Bench to rural areas of<br />

Zimbabwe… and now New York<br />

Follow<br />

@friendshipbench<br />

TED Talk<br />

Why I train grandmothers to treat depression.<br />

(TEDWomen 2017)<br />

Image: TED/Stacie Mcchesney Quote: Zimbabwe Situation June 2018<br />

Best known for<br />

Writing and incisive storytelling<br />

Milestone<br />

Becoming Executive Director at Open Society<br />

Initiative for Southern Africa<br />

Follow<br />

@Sisonkemsimang<br />

TED Talk<br />

If a story moves you, act on it. (TEDWomen 2016)<br />

Nick White<br />

“Imagine all the wisdom and wealth of experience<br />

someone has by the age of 80”<br />

“You can’t force justice. It’s the result of working with people,<br />

listening and creating opportunities for change”<br />

MORE THAN 300 million people worldwide suffer from<br />

depression, which, according to the World Health Organization,<br />

mostly occurs in low- and middle-income countries, where suitable<br />

treatment is scarce. In Zimbabwe, for example, there are only 12<br />

psychiatrists for a population of 16 million people.<br />

In 2005, Dr Chibanda was rocked by the death of a patient in<br />

her mid-20s who couldn’t afford the bus fare to come to see him<br />

for necessary treatment. In an attempt to find a solution to this<br />

problem of depression, or kufungisisa (thinking too much), Dr<br />

Chibanda began working with “grandmothers”, who, for decades,<br />

have had a traditional role as community health workers in clinics<br />

nationwide.<br />

Using locally developed techniques – kuvhura pfungwa<br />

(opening the mind); kusimudzira (uplifting); and kusimbisa<br />

(strengthening) – supported by digital technology, he was able to<br />

create an Evidence-Based-Therapy process that allows the grandmothers<br />

to successfully treat depression and anxiety. And not even<br />

in a clinical space, as treatment takes place on wooden benches,<br />

where the grandmothers administer their unique therapy.<br />

Today, in Harare alone, more than 40,000 people have<br />

received treatment from hundreds of grandmothers on the socalled<br />

Friendship Benches. Advice is also practical: helping with<br />

income-generation and creating structures that people can use in<br />

order to progress. The results are phenomenal: research shows<br />

that six months after receiving treatment from a grandmother,<br />

people were still symptom-free.<br />

Dr Chibanda has gone on to establish Friendship Benches in<br />

Zanzibar, Malawi, the Caribbean and even New York. Constantly<br />

driven, he practices tai chi, and pursues and refines his work<br />

helping people to receive effective mental health treatment.<br />

“WE LIVE IN a time where we’re witnessing the decline of<br />

facts,” says Msimang during her TEDWomen 2016 Talk. “A<br />

recent report by the Pew Center on trends in America indicates<br />

that only 10 percent of young adults under the age of 30 ‘place a lot<br />

of trust in the media’.” Conversely, they do have more respect for<br />

storytelling, which sets a dangerous precedent.<br />

According to Msimang, facts are needed, together with stories,<br />

to move the needle towards social justice. Even stories written<br />

with the best intentions can have negative consequences by glossing<br />

over real issues when they don’t include all of the facts of a given<br />

situation. Msimang has a lot of experience dealing with people’s<br />

everyday stories, which are often different to those that enter the<br />

mainstream. In her recently released memoir, Always Another<br />

Country, she speaks of “bearing witness to stories” while leading<br />

the oral storytelling programme at the Centre for Stories in Perth,<br />

Australia, where she helps refugees and diverse people to find<br />

their voices.<br />

Forged by a peripatetic lifestyle that wheeled her through<br />

Zambia, Kenya, Ethiopia and Canada as the child of South African<br />

freedom fighters in exile, Msimang’s outlook was heavily shaped<br />

by her parents. “They had the capacity to respect the dignity of<br />

each person, which is central to how I think about my work,” says<br />

Msimang. On returning to South Africa in 1990, she entered the<br />

world of activism, before moving towards journalism as disillusionment<br />

with the Rainbow Nation dream set in. “The most<br />

poignant story can get in the way of social justice,” she says in<br />

the Kirkus Reviews (November 2018). “You feel like you have...<br />

befriended that death row inmate. But you didn’t. So stories<br />

become useful only if they allow you to think about the world,<br />

become more critical and act in better ways.”


34 / PEOPLE / TED speakers<br />

PEOPLE / 35<br />

Dr Kamau<br />

Gachigi<br />

Dayo<br />

Ogunyemi<br />

Born<br />

Nairobi, Kenya<br />

Born<br />

Ibadan, Nigeria<br />

Age<br />

52<br />

Age<br />

45<br />

Current Location<br />

Nairobi, Kenya<br />

Best known for<br />

Gearbox/makerspaces<br />

Milestone<br />

Setting up the first Fab Lab at Nairobi University<br />

Follow<br />

gearbox.co.ke<br />

TED Talk<br />

Success stories from Kenya’s first makerspace.<br />

(TEDGlobal 2017)<br />

Image: Africa Knows Quote credit: Success stories from Kenya’s first makerspace (TEDGlobal 2017)<br />

Current Location<br />

New York, US<br />

Best known for<br />

Connections to innovation via various different<br />

disciplines<br />

Milestone<br />

Setting up a virtual community linking diasporic<br />

Nigerians in the early 1990s<br />

Follow<br />

@AfricaMET<br />

TED Talk<br />

Visions of Africa’s future, from African filmmakers.<br />

(TEDGlobal 2017)<br />

TED<br />

“The world’s going through the Fourth Industrial Revolution...<br />

a merger of the physical, cyber and biological worlds”<br />

“Tech and media were very different things, but<br />

have come together in life-changing ways”<br />

SEVERAL YEARS ago, Facebook’s CEO Mark Zuckerberg<br />

visited Nairobi. There’s a picture of him viewing a roof tile next to<br />

the smiling Dr Gachigi. This is no ordinary tile; aside from keeping<br />

house structures watertight, it also captures solar energy and diminishes<br />

electricity costs. And Dr Gachigi insists they beat the<br />

better-known Tesla to the market with their product.<br />

It’s the sort of radical innovation so often found among the<br />

digital fabrication machines set out at Gearbox, an experimental<br />

arena for hardware entrepreneurs to prototype, trial and refine<br />

their inventions. It’s a factory for factories that enables engineers<br />

and creatives to develop their products and bring them to market.<br />

Out of here have come plasma cutters, biogas producers,<br />

speed governors, clean cooking fuel, data integration systems,<br />

medical technology innovation and a host of other fascinating,<br />

locally grown applications. Gearbox was created and is run by Dr<br />

Gachigi, an engineer who cites his parents as prime influences in<br />

the direction he has taken.<br />

“My dad extracted silver from X-rays, and did brass casting<br />

when I was young, which is where I think my interest in material<br />

science arose,” says Dr Gachigi. “Both parents were also<br />

community minded; my mother worked with immigrants and<br />

refugees, and dad consistently impressed on me the importance<br />

of giving back.”<br />

His current project focuses on those in the Jua Kali (“hot<br />

sun”) sector who operate outdoors or in makeshift kiosks, doing<br />

handwork, frequently with rough tools. They represent 80<br />

percent of Kenya’s workforce. Collaborating with KCB Bank<br />

Kenya Ltd. and Africa Innovation Ecosystems Group, Gearbox<br />

will provide training, initially to Jua Kali metal workers, showing<br />

them how to use digital fabrication to improve their work.<br />

“I THINK a lot about digital colonialism. There’s much information<br />

out there... Who decides what we can read or find?” says<br />

Ogunyemi as he describes being defeated by Google algorithms in<br />

an online search for a specific clip about a Kampala taxi driver.<br />

Digital colonialism is a theory that the mass media is becoming a<br />

new empire itself by controlling the minds of the many. It’s part of<br />

the issue Ogunyemi takes with not just the vision of Africa in the<br />

eyes of the rest of the world (think famine and war), but also the<br />

myopia with which the continent sees itself.<br />

Largely educated in law and business in New York,<br />

Ogunyemi moved back to work in Africa after 9/11. Despite his<br />

training, he gravitated towards media, and his firm, 234 Media,<br />

recently authored a report analysing key trends in African film. It’s<br />

here that he’s anchored his belief in how media can be a key part of<br />

a progressive continent-wide shift. “The US has 1 screen for every<br />

8,000 citizens, India has 1 for every 100,000 and Sub-Saharan Africa<br />

has 1 for every 6 million. It means the West can access African<br />

films better than we can,” he says during his 2012 TED Talent<br />

Search Talk in Kenya.<br />

“When we are able to solve issues about how to distribute our<br />

films, we can begin to see how it helps us chart our own destinies,”<br />

says Ogunyemi. “So far, we’ve had some 50 years of US indoctrination.<br />

Given that images play a big part in perception, we need<br />

more Africans to access their own filmography and music to forge<br />

common identities.”<br />

Given that film contributes some US$1 billion in GDP annually<br />

in South Africa and Nigeria, its influence cannot be overstated.<br />

Add to that the access to people that mobile technology<br />

provides (millions continent-wide), and the potential for change<br />

is enormous.


36 / TRAVEL / Facts<br />

Jomo Kenyatta International<br />

Airport achieved Category One<br />

status, the top security rating,<br />

in 2018.<br />

Parking<br />

Kenya Airways’ 787 Dreamliner<br />

automatically adjusts its wing control<br />

surfaces for a smoother ride during<br />

turbulence.<br />

At the parking bay/apron<br />

engineers add service<br />

oil and do the required<br />

technical checks.<br />

The chocks prevent<br />

the aircraft from moving<br />

while it’s parked.<br />

The parking surface is<br />

made from asphalt or<br />

concrete, which can<br />

withstand any temperature.<br />

The area outside the terminal building where aircraft<br />

stop is called the “ramp” or “apron”. “Aircraft are<br />

parked, (un)loaded, serviced for the next flight,<br />

refuelled and checked for routine maintenance at<br />

the ramp,” says Kenya Airways Captain Dhaval Patel.<br />

The crew calls this area the “parking bay”, while<br />

passengers know it as the “gate”.<br />

“Each airport has a specific procedure for directing<br />

an aircraft towards its assigned gate,” says Patel.<br />

“The ground controller, in coordination with air traffic<br />

control, usually assigns the aircraft an address,<br />

consisting of a ‘street’ or ‘highway’ (taxi lane) and<br />

‘house number’ (gate) the pilots should take. In<br />

addition to the ground signals, signs and air traffic<br />

control instructions, we use an airport layout map,<br />

either in paper or electronic format, to locate the<br />

parking bay.”<br />

Once the aircraft has come to a halt, the ground<br />

crew secures the “chocks” around the wheels,<br />

which prevent accidental movement once the pilots<br />

release the aircraft’s parking brake.<br />

If the aircraft is parked facing the terminal building,<br />

or if it’s in an area where engines cannot be started<br />

(because of the hazards associated with the<br />

exhaust gases), the aircraft is pushed back by a<br />

tow-tug. If it’s parked nose out, away from obstacles<br />

or the terminal building, the aircraft will “taxi” (drive)<br />

to the runway.<br />

text: Annette Lavrijsen image: Getty Images


38 / TREND / Vertical farming<br />

TREND / 39<br />

Crop Up<br />

“The hydroponic system<br />

supports the growing of<br />

all leafy vegetables”<br />

To address food shortages, experts say that<br />

agriculture needs to move onwards and upwards.<br />

New methods that require less space and no soil,<br />

such as VERTICAL FARMING, are gathering<br />

momentum in Africa.<br />

text Annette Lavrijssen<br />

In November 2017, biochemistry graduate Samson<br />

Ogbole (35) dazzled the audience when he took to the TEDx<br />

stage in Lagos, Nigeria. He demonstrated cutting-edge farming<br />

methods that could ensure the future of food worldwide.<br />

“To me, agriculture is more than just food production; it’s<br />

the foundation for sustainable development, job creation and<br />

healthier living,” he says. “I believe farmers must be smart about<br />

the climate, adopt a business mindset and embrace technology,<br />

automation and data.”<br />

HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM<br />

According to a 2017 report by the Food and Agriculture<br />

Organization of the UN, farming has become increasingly<br />

difficult due to climate change, unpredictable weather, desertification,<br />

changing precipitation patterns and high crop instability.<br />

Although this is a global problem, the need for farmers<br />

in Africa to employ new farming methods is more immediate;<br />

natural resources and soil are being exhausted because farmers<br />

have insufficient time and space for an adequate fallow period.<br />

Furthermore, overcutting and overgrazing have become the<br />

norm, resulting in fertiliser misuse and improper crop rotation.<br />

The issue is compounded by the growing global population,<br />

which is expected to reach 9.73 billion by 2050. More<br />

than half of this boom will happen in Africa, where Nigeria<br />

will see the biggest increase (to about 450 million). Given that<br />

the average age of the Nigerian farmer is 60, and young people<br />

are unwilling to pick up agriculture because conventional<br />

farming has become more difficult, the need for new farming<br />

methods is even more apparent. ><br />

The perks of soilless<br />

farming<br />

• It’s a one-time set-up with a fast<br />

return on investment.<br />

• Maintenance is cheap compared<br />

to soil-based farming.<br />

• It’s more sustainable, as the use<br />

of tractors, fertilisers, herbicides<br />

and insecticides are drastically<br />

diminished or eliminated.<br />

• Production costs are stable<br />

throughout the seasons.<br />

• Vertical farming methods need<br />

less space to grow more crops.<br />

• Growth time is reduced and the<br />

plants produce a higher yield.<br />

• Studies show that plants<br />

grown without soil have higher<br />

levels of phytochemicals and<br />

antioxidants, compared to crops<br />

grown in soil.<br />

Getty Images


40 / TREND / Vertical farming<br />

TREND / 41<br />

CLIMATE-SMART FARMING<br />

Ogbole has devoted his time and resources to building modern<br />

farms that explore the latest technologies for agriculture, which<br />

may address some of the greatest problems the world is facing<br />

today. He’s producing more crops in less space, while minimising<br />

environmental damage. Innovative technologies, such as aeroponics,<br />

hydroponics and aquaponics enable farmers to grow<br />

crops in vertical stacks without soil. This sounds high-tech, yet<br />

the basics are simple. “The function of soil is to act as support,<br />

retain water and allow for aeration,” says Ogbole. “If we can use<br />

alternative materials in this function, we can grow crops without<br />

soil. Try it at home: if you keep some vegetables inside a few<br />

bowls of water and leave them for three to seven days, the roots<br />

will come out. Add fertiliser to the water and you will be carrying<br />

out hydroponics.”<br />

HOW IT’S DONE<br />

Hydroponic farmers grow vegetables in stagnant water<br />

(needing aeration via air stones) or flowing water. A liquid nutrient<br />

solution is added as a growing medium, while essential<br />

minerals sustain plant growth. Aquaponics pioneers are taking<br />

it a step further by combining the cultivation of plants and fish<br />

into one ecosystem, which is comparable to a fish tank with a<br />

garden on top. The waste – urea or ammonia – produced by the<br />

fish is the foundational nutrient for leafy vegetables, so it’s used to<br />

feed them. The circular system allows for the growth of vegetables<br />

without regular water replacement, as the plants recycle the water<br />

by cleaning it.<br />

Aeroponics is sometimes considered to be a type of hydroponics<br />

because water is used to transmit nutrients, but the system<br />

is different because it grows plants in the air without the use of<br />

“Hydroponics and aquaponics<br />

enable farmers to grow crops in<br />

vertical stacks without soil”<br />

soil or an aggregate medium. The roots hang suspended in the<br />

air, while the nutrient solution is sprayed onto them in the form<br />

of a fine mist.<br />

Choosing the best soil-free system depends on the type of<br />

crops and space available. For tuber crops, such as potatoes and<br />

yams, aeroponics gives the best results because it provides easy<br />

access to the root (tuber) region. The YIIFSWA-II project, led<br />

by the Beninese agricultural engineer Dr Norbert Maroya, pairs<br />

scientists from the International Institute for Tropical Agriculture<br />

with farmers. They are collaborating in order to establish a seed<br />

system that ensures that high-quality seed tubers – of various yam<br />

varieties – are readily available to smallholder farmers. “Seed<br />

tubers are the most crucial elements in the livelihood of yamgrowing<br />

communities, such as Nigeria and Ghana, and food<br />

supply is heavily dependent on the seed security,” says Maroya.<br />

“Although farmers save about 30 percent of their yield with seed<br />

tubers, the majority is ridden with pests and diseases that have<br />

Getty Images<br />

accumulated in the tubers and soils.” Maroya and his team are<br />

using aeroponics to facilitate a rapid and safe multiplication<br />

of yam seed tubers. Their objective is to achieve a 30 percent<br />

increase in the productivity of yam cultivation for at least<br />

320,000 farmers in Ghana and Nigeria.<br />

MORE CROPS, LESS IMPACT<br />

“The hydroponic system supports the growing of all leafy<br />

vegetables, herbs, fruits and starchy foods,” says Peter Chege,<br />

entrepreneur and founder of Hydroponics Africa. Hydroponics<br />

and aquaponics are often considered a cost-intensive enterprise,<br />

but Chege is convinced that it doesn’t need to be. Over the<br />

years, the Kenyan entrepreneur has learned that many farmers<br />

incur high costs for animal feed even though the quality is often<br />

unsatisfactory. To address this problem, he and his team started<br />

developing hydroponic systems that enable farmers to grow<br />

animal feed at low cost, while also providing them with the<br />

means to grow vegetables.<br />

Evidently proud, Chege says, “Since 2015, we have been<br />

rolling out our simplified hydroponic systems, which are not<br />

only practical, but cost-effective too. We’ve developed an optimal<br />

nutrient solution specific to various crops, which directly irrigates<br />

the crop’s root through the watering system. This minimises wastage<br />

of both nutrients and water (excess water is being recycled).<br />

For the substrates, we use recycled materials, such as pumice,<br />

wood chips, mattress tissues and even plastic cups. The water<br />

system is fully automated and powered by integrated solar panels,<br />

and there is zero use of herbicides. As there is no competition<br />

for nutrients, the crops are highly nutritious compared to crops<br />

grown under conventional methods, and they mature 30 percent<br />

faster, resulting in more harvests per year.”<br />

EMERGING POTENTIAL<br />

The impact these new farming methods have on production<br />

is significant. “If you want to grow tomatoes in the soil, it will<br />

take you three months; with a hydroponic system it takes you,<br />

at most, a month. Growing wheatgrass in the soil takes three to<br />

four months, with this system it takes only seven days; without<br />

any pesticides, very little fertiliser and no soil,” says Ogbole in<br />

his TEDx Talk.<br />

Will these vertical, soil-free farms unleash a “green revolution”<br />

in Africa, as proponents love to call it? With just three major<br />

suppliers, hydroponics is still an emerging industry, but according<br />

to Chege, business is booming. So far Hypdroponics Africa has<br />

installed more than 5,000 hydroponic systems in Kenya, Uganda,<br />

Rwanda and Somalia, and the company has extended its presence<br />

in Burkina Faso and Nepal. Based on the current high demand,<br />

they expect an exponential growth of 70 percent in the next few<br />

years.<br />

Soil-free farming systems are inseparable from the global<br />

movement that seeks to make agriculture climate-smart and<br />

future-proof. Most governments now recognise the need to<br />

develop interventions, and some have already taken action.<br />

As one of the first in Sub-Saharan Africa, Kenya launched<br />

the Climate Smart Agriculture Strategy 2017–2026, in which<br />

the government declares its objective to make agriculture more<br />

sustainable and resilient through collaborations and education.<br />

“The major challenge is knowledge,” says Ogbole. “By<br />

training people and making them aware of the potential of<br />

vertical and soil-free farming, agriculture becomes a tool to<br />

build the nation we so much desire. I’m not saying we should<br />

eliminate soil, but I do believe we should complement soil.<br />

Vertical, soilless farming is one of the ways to ensure the<br />

future of food.”<br />

30<br />

Urban aeroponics gardens can grow in half<br />

the time it takes for them to grow in soil,<br />

with a yield of 30% more.<br />

90<br />

Aeroponic farming requires around 90%<br />

less water than soil-grown crops.<br />

6,400<br />

The biggest aeroponics farm in the world<br />

is being built in Newark, US, with 6,400 sq<br />

m of cultivated spaces without soil.<br />

8,000<br />

By using aeroponics, a farmer can produce<br />

up to 8,000 lettuce plants in a 3 m x 1 m<br />

space each year.<br />

50,000<br />

A yam tuber that is multiplied using<br />

aeroponics can get more than 50,000<br />

tubers annually.<br />

Peter Chege<br />

Sources: Environmental Assessment Agency PBL, International Institute for Tropical Agriculture (IITA), YIIFSWA-II project, IITA University of Chile 2015.


Inaugural flight / INTERVIEW / 43<br />

Biko On Board<br />

New Kid on<br />

The Block<br />

On board the inaugural flight to New York,<br />

Jackson Biko talks to Blessing Samii, who’s<br />

travelling with her son, the youngest passenger<br />

on the aircraft. She hopes that this experience<br />

will encourage him to travel and see the world<br />

when he’s older.<br />

Blessing Samii<br />

Nationality<br />

Zimbabwean<br />

Profession<br />

Nurse<br />

Place of Residence<br />

Cape Town<br />

Why New York?<br />

Begin her son’s travels<br />

with one of the world’s top<br />

destinations<br />

Parents often want to live their lives<br />

through their children. Personally, I’m<br />

flipping this narrative on its head; I want<br />

my son to live his life through me, and be<br />

curious and go beyond where we live. To go<br />

farther away without losing where we are,<br />

who we are. I think the world is too vast<br />

and too diverse to die not learning a bit of<br />

what it has to offer.<br />

Although we live in the lovely age of<br />

the Internet, we can’t explore the real<br />

world online. We have to pack a bag and<br />

see it for ourselves, and not be influenced<br />

by what other people think. This is why<br />

I’m on this flight to New York with my<br />

son Malachi. He will be turning three in a<br />

few days, and I wanted it to happen there .<br />

I like to think that he will get a head start<br />

by seeing one of the world’s top cities on<br />

his first journey. I can’t wait to see Times<br />

Square. I’ve seen it a lot on TV. New York<br />

looks wonderful and I hope it meets my<br />

expectations.<br />

We will spend 10 days in the US.<br />

Malachi might not remember this trip<br />

when he’s older, but I hope that some part<br />

of it stays with him, such as travelling on<br />

the subway, seeing the many bright lights<br />

in Times Square, or the beautiful autumn<br />

streets. I hope he remembers that he had a<br />

great time in New York. I hope to plant in<br />

him the seed of travelling and of curiosity.<br />

I think that when you travel, you open<br />

yourself up to a different world. It’s like<br />

discovering new doors to a house, going<br />

in there and finding a totally different<br />

experience. I love travelling even though I<br />

haven’t done much of it because of cost<br />

and work obligations. Italy is also on my<br />

wish list. I want to go there for the wine<br />

and that festive, bonhomie Italian vibe.<br />

I’ve been told that Malachi is the<br />

youngest person on this inaugural flight.<br />

I hope that one day he will know that he<br />

was part of this great history in the making.<br />

So far he’s having a great time. The food is<br />

great. The inflight entertainment is good<br />

too. Kenya Airways has obviously catered<br />

for child travellers as well. We are having<br />

the time of our lives and the atmosphere is<br />

just magic.<br />

“I like to think that he<br />

will get a head start by<br />

seeing one of the<br />

world’s top cities”


44 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance BUSINESS /45<br />

At a glance<br />

Somalia<br />

Have a closer look at the potential of Somalia.<br />

The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,<br />

touristic attractions and social trends of today.<br />

text Yvette Bax infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism


46 / BUSINESS / Interview BUSINESS / 47<br />

NOT<br />

MY BAG<br />

Seeing PLASTIC BAGS littering the<br />

landscape enraged James Wakibia so much<br />

that he took matters into his own hands;<br />

thus began a modern-day hero’s journey.<br />

text Joseph Maina<br />

James Wakibia<br />

Born<br />

25 January, 1983 in Matuiku, Nakuru<br />

County, Kenya.<br />

Profession<br />

Photographer, environmental activist<br />

and public speaker.<br />

Education<br />

Bachelor of Arts degree in<br />

Communication and Media from<br />

Kenya’s Egerton University (2014).<br />

Greatest achievement<br />

Kenya’s 2017 ban on single-use<br />

plastics.<br />

Motto<br />

Less plastic is fantastic.<br />

What inspired your interest in the<br />

environment?<br />

While I was at university, I took a<br />

three-month environmental science module,<br />

taught by Dr Stanley M. Makindi, a<br />

very environmentally conscious man.<br />

His passion for the planet, his faith in<br />

humanity and his belief that everyone<br />

has the ability to make a difference – far<br />

and wide – by taking the first steps<br />

themselves, lit a fire inside me that has<br />

never gone out. That’s when I began<br />

really talking about the environment.<br />

And that’s when I took action.<br />

I embarked on my path in 2010. My<br />

first step was nothing particularly special.<br />

I just took my camera with me to<br />

Mathare – a slum in Nairobi – and took<br />

a picture of plastics clogging a nearby<br />

river. It looked like a river of plastic; it<br />

was an environmental disaster. But it<br />

wasn’t until I saw the rubbish in the<br />

Nakuru dumpsite that I truly understood<br />

the significance of that image.<br />

That scene was the turning point; that’s<br />

when my activism began in earnest.<br />

Describe the situation at Lake Nakuru<br />

Nakuru town’s dumpsite is on an<br />

elevation, with the town in the middle<br />

and the lake on the lower side. When it<br />

rains, most waste leaves the dumpsite and<br />

heads to Lake Nakuru, which has had<br />

quite a beating from pollution, mostly as<br />

a result of urbanisation.<br />

A study conducted a few years ago<br />

revealed that up to 20 tons of plastic<br />

debris was being collected every year in<br />

and around Lake Nakuru National Park.<br />

Flamingos in the lake were disappearing,<br />

and this was often because of plastic<br />

pollution.<br />

Why are plastic bags so harmful to the<br />

environment?<br />

They don’t biodegrade, and they’re<br />

often thrown away after being used once.<br />

That’s the most disturbing thing that<br />

came into my mind. Some day you’ll go<br />

shopping for five commodities and carry<br />

them in five different plastic bags. After<br />

that single use, these bags are often discarded<br />

and live for hundreds of years, >


48 / BUSINESS / Interview<br />

while destroying the environment. Even<br />

if they break down, they break down<br />

into micro-plastics, which are even more<br />

dangerous because they’re carried off<br />

into the rivers and oceans where they’re<br />

eaten by fish. And we end up ingesting<br />

them too, when we eat the fish.<br />

dumpsite, carrying placards, all the way<br />

to the Nakuru County headquarters.<br />

There were so many of us. I felt proud.<br />

We were very motivated at this point.<br />

I looked in the eyes of my allies and I<br />

had goose bumps. I could see that the fire<br />

was inside them too. I was excited. We<br />

were doing something meaningful that<br />

was also fun. That sort of satisfaction is<br />

hard to describe.<br />

Our message was heard, because two<br />

but I didn’t see lack of money as something<br />

that could stop me. I had university<br />

friends, and we knew we could do it. I<br />

had social media. If I needed to print<br />

something, I had classmates to do a few<br />

posters. Even today, I say that if more<br />

money had been available at the time, I<br />

would have done more. But it never<br />

What did you do to get the<br />

government’s attention?<br />

I started taking pictures of the Gioto<br />

dumpsite in Nakuru town. I then organised<br />

a petition, seeking 10,000 signatures<br />

from residents of the town to relocate<br />

the dumpsite or close it down. I collected<br />

about 5,000, and then I marshalled my<br />

classmates, who bought my idea that we<br />

should do a protest from the dumpsite as<br />

we deliver the petition to the governor.<br />

On 27 July 2013, we walked from the<br />

Timeline<br />

2013<br />

James Wakibia and his campus colleagues<br />

start campaigning for a ban on single-use<br />

plastic bags.<br />

28 February, 2017<br />

Kenya announces the ban on use,<br />

manufacture and importation of all carrier<br />

and flat plastic bags used for commercial<br />

and household packaging.<br />

24-25 August, 2017<br />

Kenya’s Ministry of Environment and Natural<br />

Resources, in conjunction with National<br />

Environment Management Authority,<br />

organise the annual Alternative Eco-Friendly<br />

Exhibition to sensitise manufacturers,<br />

retailers, distributors and the public to<br />

alternative packaging material.<br />

28 August, 2017<br />

Ban on plastic bags takes effect in Kenya.<br />

“We were doing something meaningful that was also<br />

fun. That sort of satisfaction is hard to describe”<br />

weeks later the county’s minister for the<br />

environment told me that, though it<br />

would be difficult to close down Gioto<br />

dumpsite, they would try and manage it.<br />

Of course, I noticed later that it wasn’t<br />

the dumpsite’s fault. The problem was<br />

plastics. So I started talking about plastic<br />

and why we need to ban it, and control<br />

plastic pollution. I wrote opinion articles<br />

in local newspapers and took a lot of<br />

pictures of plastic pollution. I then<br />

shared them on social media.<br />

Which of your activities had the most<br />

impact on government policy?<br />

My petition against the use of plastic<br />

bags in Nakuru County, which was later<br />

tabled before the Nakuru County<br />

Assembly, was the launchpad for the<br />

ban. My relentless lobbying on social<br />

media was also influential because it<br />

culminated in an endorsement on Twitter<br />

by Judy Wakhungu, who was Kenya’s<br />

Cabinet Secretary for Environment,<br />

Water & Natural Resources at the time.<br />

In September 2015, she sent a tweet<br />

supporting my hashtag: #BanPlasticsKE.<br />

This was a game-changer in the war<br />

against plastics in Kenya. From this<br />

point, Wakhungu propagated the antiplastic<br />

campaign through her Twitter<br />

channel and gave it greater momentum.<br />

What were the main challenges?<br />

I didn’t see challenges. You know,<br />

when you are mad about something, you<br />

don’t see anything that can stop you. I<br />

had no money – a potential challenge –<br />

crossed my mind that I didn’t have money,<br />

because I was so passionate.<br />

How do you feel now about the<br />

movement against plastic pollution?<br />

I am very optimistic, because so<br />

many people and governments are<br />

talking about plastic pollution. I think<br />

people are becoming conscious about<br />

the plastics they use in their daily lives,<br />

and the impact these plastics have on<br />

the planet.<br />

What are you working on at the<br />

moment?<br />

I’m starting a new project called<br />

#RethinkPlastics, which is basically<br />

trying to tell people to rethink their use<br />

of plastics, especially single-use plastics.<br />

If you don’t need it, please don’t use it. If<br />

you don’t need that straw, leave it. It will<br />

not be reused, and it will never be recycled.<br />

Once you use it for those five or so<br />

minutes, its usefulness ends there, but it<br />

remains on the planet for hundreds of<br />

years.<br />

What are your hopes for the future?<br />

I hope to see a more sustainable<br />

world: a greener world, with less singleuse<br />

plastics. I want my son to grow up in<br />

a world free from them, where we don’t<br />

have single-use cups and bags. I don’t<br />

want him to grow up in a plastic world.<br />

I want the world to develop in a more<br />

sustainable way, where everything can<br />

be reused or recycled, and there is less<br />

waste; a world where what we call waste<br />

can be used by somebody else.


50 / TRAVEL / Quiz<br />

Guess<br />

and Win<br />

We give you five clues about a<br />

KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />

Which city are we referring to?<br />

Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />

or Twitter using #msafiriquiz,<br />

and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />

text Ben Clark<br />

1<br />

Humpback whales can be seen in this city during September<br />

and October, when they migrate from their breeding<br />

grounds in the tropics.<br />

2<br />

This city, know locally as Mother City, was number one in<br />

The New York Times article, 52 Places to Go in 2014.<br />

3<br />

Author J.M. Coetzee, who has won many awards, such as<br />

the Nobel Prize in Literature 2003 and the Booker Prize in<br />

1983 and 1999, was born here.<br />

4<br />

Biltong – dried, salted and spiced strips of beef or game<br />

– is a popular snack in this city.<br />

5<br />

Dr Christiaan Barnard performed the first-ever heart<br />

transplant at Groote Schuur Hospital here in 1967.<br />

Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #msafiriquiz. Each month, Kenya Airways will pick a winner<br />

and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.<br />

Shutterstock, Getty Images, ANP Foto


52 / TRAVEL / Barcelona<br />

TRAVEL / 53<br />

Magical<br />

5<br />

Metropolis<br />

1<br />

2<br />

BARCELONA, in northeast Spain, is<br />

one of Europe’s biggest tourist magnets.<br />

Annette Lavrijsen, who recently moved<br />

there, has discovered what makes the<br />

coastal city so attractive.<br />

6<br />

text Annette Lavrijsen<br />

3<br />

4<br />

7<br />

Robert Harding, Matteo Colombo, Stocksy<br />

“I’M SO HAPPY for you both, this is the best city in the world.” For a<br />

second, I thought she would burst into tears of joy, but my mother-in-law<br />

simply turned her head and gazed in the direction of the Mediterranean<br />

Sea. Having eaten Sunday lunch, we were having coffee on the balcony,<br />

which also looks out onto the mountains, in the midst of which are the<br />

city’s elegant apartment blocks intersected by wide avenues and, in the<br />

distance, the heavenly towers and cranes of the Sagrada Família church.<br />

“Surely everyone living here would describe this place in the same<br />

way?” I thought to myself as I leaned over the balustrade and watched the<br />

whirling leaves on the street announcing the arrival of winter. By the time<br />

spring kicked in, we had moved into a small apartment in Barcelona’s<br />

centre, where I became engrossed in architecture, food culture and<br />

unapologetic creativity. ><br />

1. Outdoor cafés at Plaça Reial 2. Windows of Plaza Batlló 3. Spanish tiles 4. A tourist<br />

at Avinguda Diagonal 5. Sunrise at Barceloneta beach 6. Art Deco pharmacy at la<br />

Rambla 7. Rooftop of Casa Milà with a view on the Sagrada Família


54 / TRAVEL / Barcelona<br />

TRAVEL / 55<br />

“Sit down at one of<br />

the many squares for a<br />

coffee or a glass of beer<br />

and some tapas”<br />

ARCHITECTURAL WONDERLAND<br />

Being adorned with brilliant works of architecture, both from the past<br />

and the present, Barcelona’s urban landscape is often described as magical.<br />

The underground transport network, which is one of Europe’s best,<br />

provides efficient access to the spellbinding streets of the central neighbourhoods.<br />

From the Barrio Gòtico – with its enchanting alleyways and<br />

ancient cathedral – to the distinguished Eixample – with its richly decorated,<br />

multi-hued façades and luxury boutiques – and El Poblenou, the<br />

former industrial district that is now a hub for innovation and<br />

creativity, each area has a distinct identity.<br />

Central threads are the modernist buildings, parks and street lamps that<br />

are dotted across the city. Many of these sprouted from the imagination of<br />

the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926), who was at the forefront<br />

of Catalan Modernism. Taking inspiration from the colours, shapes and<br />

structures in nature, he was a pioneer in his field, and his dreamlike work<br />

led to the creation of some of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Casa<br />

Batlló (Passeig de Gràcia 43), with its polychrome façade decorated with<br />

glass and ceramic, and undulating roof representing a mythical dragon,<br />

may be his most original achievement. Gaudí’s masterpiece is undeniably the<br />

aforementioned Sagrada Família (Carrer de Mallorca, 401), a basilica to<br />

which he dedicated 16 years of his life, living as a recluse in the building<br />

until he was hit by a tram and died in 1926. Since then, he rests in the<br />

crypt of the basilica awaiting the completion of his dream. Don’t miss<br />

out; book your tickets in advance for a look inside.<br />

Or walk a few blocks up to Ayre Hotel Rossellón on Carrer de Rosseló<br />

390, and take the lift to the rooftop terrace for a cocktail and incredible<br />

views of the 7 (of 18) completed towers. Another unfinished gem is Park<br />

Güell, on the slopes of the Sierra de Collserola mountain range, which is<br />

so mystical that you need to see it to believe it. The fairy-tale gardens<br />

with colourful mosaic animals and rock-covered pathways have led some<br />

to believe that Gaudí was under the influence of hallucinogens when he<br />

created it.<br />

CREATIVE CHARM<br />

After visiting this tourism hotspot, you may want to enter “Plaça del<br />

Sol” in Google Maps and follow the route downhill through Gràcia, a<br />

former village that was engulfed by the city but has preserved its smalltown<br />

charm. The area, currently one of the hippest and most artistic in<br />

Barcelona, has fewer tourists, which guarantees a relaxed vibe. Wander<br />

through the narrow streets – lined by small artisan workshops, bric-abrac<br />

shops and vegan bakeries – and sit down at one of the many squares<br />

for a coffee or a glass of beer and some tapas. Besides the Plaça del Sol,<br />

the most charming squares are the Plaça de Rius i Taulet, recognisable by<br />

the clock tower in its centre (where you might stumble upon a live music<br />

event) and Plaça de la Virreina, which evokes a flavour of the old Gràcia,<br />

with a quaint church and locals chatting in the shade of the trees.<br />

From Gràcia, it’s an easy walk to the more central Eixample district,<br />

via the elegant Passeig de Gràcia, where you can find the chic boutiques of<br />

Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermès, next to flagship stores of Spanish<br />

brands, such as Massimo Dutti and Zara. ><br />

1. Empty terrace on the beach 2. Sagrada Família 3. A girl with a bicycle downtown<br />

4. Restaurants at Plaça Reial 5. Bike lane 6. Park Güell 7. A narrow street in the Barrio<br />

Gòtico 8. The cable car to Mount Montjuïc 9. Close-up of a fountain at Plaça Reial<br />

WHERE TO SLEEP<br />

Casa Bonay<br />

Located in a neoclassical building from<br />

1869, which was brought back to life by a<br />

team of designers, chefs and local artisans.<br />

At the weekends this is a place where the<br />

cool crowd hangs out. Gran Via de les Corts<br />

Catalanes, 700<br />

casabonay.com<br />

Hotel Grand Central<br />

A five-star hotel with a luxury spa, sky bar<br />

and rooftop pool that offer panoramic views<br />

across the city. Via Laietana, 30<br />

grandhotelcentral.com<br />

Margot House<br />

A home away from home with an elegantly<br />

decorated living area, complete with kitchen<br />

and library. Paseo de Gracia, 46<br />

margothouse.es<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Terraza Martínez<br />

Have lunch here and enjoy some of the best<br />

views of the city. Afterwards, walk off your<br />

meal on Montjuïc and take the cable car<br />

down to the beach. Carretera de Miramar, 38<br />

martinezbarcelona.com<br />

Mauri<br />

The best way to cope with Barcelona’s late<br />

dinner hours is to have a merienda around 6<br />

p.m., traditionally consisting of hot chocolate<br />

and a sweet snack. The cakes are legendary<br />

here. Rambla de Catalunya, 102<br />

pasteleriasmauri.com<br />

Pez Vela<br />

Share a paella at this contemporary classic,<br />

on the groundfloor of Hotel W. Paseo del<br />

Mare Nostrum 19/21<br />

grupotragaluz.com<br />

Boca Grande<br />

Go here for the best cocktails in Eixample.<br />

Passatge de la Concepció, 12<br />

bocagrande.cat<br />

Collage Art & Cocktail Social Club<br />

For a more intimate experience try this<br />

cocktail bar in El Born. C/ Consellers, 4<br />

collagecocktailbar.com<br />

Robert Harding, Stocksy, Getty Images, Alamy<br />

2<br />

1<br />

4<br />

5 8<br />

6 7 9<br />

3


56 / TRAVEL / Barcelona<br />

TRAVEL / 57<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

8<br />

“It didn’t take long<br />

for me to find out that<br />

life in Barcelona revolves<br />

around food”<br />

THINGS TO DO<br />

• Watch a flamenco show or music concert at<br />

the Palau de la Música Catalana, which is<br />

beautiful inside and out (palaumusica.cat).<br />

• To avoid the flocks of tourists, book the first<br />

walking tour of the day (most are for free) and<br />

explore the Barrio Gòtico at its best. Highlights<br />

are the Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, Plaça Reial<br />

and the old Jewish street Sant Domènec del<br />

Call, which has recently been renamed Carrer<br />

de Salomó Ben Adret.<br />

• Visit the stadium of the legendary football club<br />

FC Barcelona or, in short, Barça. However,<br />

never say “Barça” when you mean the city of<br />

Barcelona, lest you want to come across as a<br />

guiri (ignorant tourist).<br />

• The Picasso Museum is the city’s most<br />

famous museum, but just as interesting are<br />

the Fundácio Joan Miró, showing works by<br />

the Catalan artist and more contemporary<br />

surrealists, and the CaixaForum Barcelona,<br />

an odd mashup of a warehouse and a castle<br />

by modernist architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch,<br />

boasting epic seasonal shows loaned from the<br />

world’s most important museums. For shows<br />

see: museupicasso.bcn.cat, fmirobcn.org and<br />

caixaforum.es/barcelona.<br />

• Explore El Poblenou, a district buzzing with<br />

creativity. Highlights are the Design Museum<br />

of Barcelona and Torre Glòries, La Rambla del<br />

Poblenou, and the Palo Alto artistic colony,<br />

which often organises food markets at the<br />

weekend.<br />

URBAN BEACHES<br />

Blessed with a Mediterranean climate, Barcelona has soft winters and<br />

sunny days most of the year, which are probably best enjoyed on the<br />

Barceloneta seafront. Once the home of fishermen, this area now offers<br />

1,100 m of sandy beaches, surf rentals and xiringuitos (beach bars) as the<br />

main attractions for visitors.<br />

Shelter from the sun can be found in Barceloneta’s back streets, where<br />

you’ll walk under a ceiling of drying clothes and eat like a king in the<br />

plethora of traditional bars and restaurants. All-time favourites are Bar<br />

Bitácora and Bar Jai-Ca, where you’ll find reasonably priced tapas and<br />

good vibes, and seafood restaurant Montolio Can Maño. Or follow the<br />

scent of fried fish and find yourself a spot in La Cova Fumada, an oldschool<br />

bodega that is known for its oily pa amb tomàquet (tomato bread)<br />

and the tastiest bombas (breaded potato and meat balls served with aioli<br />

and brava sauces) in town. It’s greasy, but good.<br />

FOODIE HAVEN<br />

It didn’t take long for me to find out that life in Barcelona revolves<br />

around food. Conversations among friends or relatives always seem to<br />

end up with a discussion on what, where and how to eat. I wonder if<br />

there’s a causal relation with the astoundingly high density of restaurants<br />

that, apart from the tourist traps around La Rambla, mostly offer good<br />

quality for a very decent price. A smart option is the three-course menu<br />

del dia, which usually costs between US$12-18 (including a drink), and is<br />

often outstanding.<br />

Whereas the choice in modern international cuisine is increasing,<br />

most restaurants still serve traditional fare, as defined by the many<br />

migrants from other regions in Spain. Worth a try are the Catalan butifarra<br />

(sausage) and arroz negro (black rice), Galician seafood, Andalusian<br />

tapas, Basque pintxos (small snacks) and Asturian meat stews and cheeses.<br />

Streets that are well-known for their food scene are Carrer d’Enric<br />

Granados, a semi-pedestrianised oasis a stone’s throw from Eixample’s<br />

most-visited monuments; the unpretentious Carrer de Blai in Poble-Sec,<br />

which is the place for a midday vermouth and some pintxos; and the<br />

streets around the Santa Caterina market in El Born.<br />

With a vast array of wine and cocktail bars, El Born is famous for its<br />

cosmopolitan nightlife. But, just as interesting, is the wide range of concept<br />

stores, art galleries and local designer shops, where you can find unique,<br />

custom-made pieces by Barcelona’s creatives. El Born’s main shopping<br />

streets are Carrer de la Princesa and Carrer de l’Argenteria. Don’t forget<br />

to browse the little streets for the most special gems.<br />

THE WHOLE PACKAGE<br />

In addition to what I’ve mentioned above, probably one of the<br />

best things about Barcelona is its convenient location – with easy flight<br />

connections to all major European cities – and close proximity to the<br />

Mediterranean Sea and mountains. A while ago, I was having dinner<br />

with a friend who described his day to me: he had woken up early to go<br />

skiing in the Pyrenees, stopped on the way back to take a dip in the sea,<br />

and went shopping in Passeig de Gràcia before meeting me for a relaxed<br />

dinner. All in one day! I expect that it won’t be long before I start telling<br />

people that Barcelona is the best city in the world.<br />

6 7 9<br />

Robert Harding, Stocksy, Getty Images<br />

Kenya Airways operates flights to Barcelona<br />

via Amsterdam from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta<br />

International Airport.<br />

1. Street light with Catalan colours 2. Interior view of the Sagrada Família 3. Quimet and<br />

Quimet tapas bar 4. Street in the Old City 5. Torre Glòries (formally Torre Agbar) marks<br />

the gateway to Barcelona’s technological district 6. Light and ceiling inside Casa Batlló<br />

7. A paddle board 8. La Boqueria Market 9. A restaurant menu in the Barrio Gòtico


58 / HERITAGE / Fashion<br />

HERITAGE / 59<br />

Celestin (67) cuts a stylish figure outside a<br />

local shop. He has been a Sapeur since he<br />

was 12. He has four children and works as<br />

a mason and builder. His favourite item is<br />

his pair of Giorgio Armani braces.<br />

Kass (42) has been a<br />

Sapeur for 20 years. He<br />

has three children and<br />

sells clothes in a small<br />

shop. His favourite item<br />

is his pair of J.M. Weston<br />

shoes, which can cost<br />

hundreds of dollars.<br />

© Tariq Zaidi<br />

FRESH<br />

DEBONAIR<br />

Milan, Paris, London and...Brazzaville?<br />

The Republic of the Congo’s capital might be an<br />

unlikely hub of haute couture, but its SAPEURS<br />

have given “dapper” a new meaning.<br />

text and photography Tariq Zaidi


60 / HERITAGE / Fashion<br />

HERITAGE / 61<br />

Below: Elie (45) has been a Sapeur<br />

since the age of 10. He has one child<br />

and owns two taxis, which he rents out<br />

in order to save up for his Ganni bag,<br />

J.M. Weston crocodile shoes and Louis<br />

Vuitton cane. But his most prized item is<br />

his blue Ruben O suit. Right page above:<br />

Arle (33) performs the signature Sapeur<br />

greeting of stamping and clicking his<br />

heels together. He has been a Sapeur for<br />

eight years and works as a driver. Right<br />

page below: Celestin (67) is a builder<br />

who has been a Sapeur for 55 years. He<br />

shows off his beloved Emmanuelle Khanh<br />

sunglasses and Giorgio Armani braces.<br />

IMMACULATELY DRESSED in<br />

a pink three-piece suit, bow tie and<br />

sunglasses, Maxim wouldn’t look out<br />

of place on a catwalk at Paris Fashion<br />

Week. But he happens to be strutting his<br />

stuff in Ouenzé, a suburb of Brazzaville.<br />

Despite the sewage-strewn streets, crumbling<br />

concrete homes, chickens pecking<br />

the dust around his feet and, of course,<br />

the intense heat, this 43-year-old Sapeur<br />

looks like a million dollars. Followers of<br />

Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes<br />

Élégantes (the Society of Tastemakers<br />

and Elegant People) aka La SAPE, the<br />

Sapeurs will spend US$3,000 on a suit<br />

when they don’t even have running<br />

water, and go without food in order<br />

to save up for the right designer accessories.<br />

Most have ordinary day jobs as<br />

taxi drivers and gardeners, but as soon<br />

as they clock off, they transform themselves<br />

into debonair dandies.<br />

Defying their circumstances by<br />

sashaying through the streets, the Sapeurs<br />

are treated like rock stars as they turn<br />

heads and bring joie de vivre to their<br />

communities. Spending money on ornate<br />

umbrellas and silk socks might seem<br />

surreal when almost half the population<br />

of the country lives in poverty, but the<br />

La SAPE movement aims to do more<br />

than just lift spirits. Over the decades, it<br />

has functioned as a form of resistance,<br />

social activism and peaceful protest.<br />

La Mairie or De Guy, bars on the<br />

dusty streets in Brazzaville, may not<br />

look like churches or temples, but every<br />

Sunday evening the Sapeurs visit these<br />

well-known places of worship. Their<br />

god is fashion and, as you’d expect, the<br />

ceremonial robes are spectacular. From<br />

the tips of their Armani fedoras, to the<br />

soles of their shiny J.M.Weston shoes,<br />

these men are dressed to the nines. As<br />

they click their heels, showing off flamboyant<br />

braces while twirling their canes,<br />

© Tariq Zaidi<br />

“The true art lies in a Sapeur’s ability to put together a<br />

look that is European, but has an African twist”<br />

they’re in stark contrast with their slumlike<br />

surroundings. The Republic of the<br />

Congo is one of the poorest countries in<br />

the world, and yet for followers of La<br />

SAPE, labels are everything – knock-offs<br />

are not accepted – and they prefer to<br />

get their clothes directly from Europe,<br />

waiting for friends to travel to Paris or<br />

London to buy clothes from designers<br />

such as Dior, Gucci, Jean-Paul Gaultier,<br />

Armani, Kenzo, Yamamoto and Versace.<br />

The gross national income per capita<br />

(per year) in the Republic of the Congo<br />

may be US$1,710, but the Sapeurs will<br />

think nothing of spending that on a<br />

single pair of shoes.<br />

Most of these men will save up for<br />

years or borrow huge sums to fund their<br />

lavish wardrobes. They will also share<br />

clothes to maintain the appearance of<br />

affluence, pick up items from fashion<br />

boutiques in Brazzaville, or have pieces<br />

made by local tailors. True “Sapologie”<br />

is about more than expensive labels; the<br />

true art lies in a Sapeur’s ability to >


62 / HERITAGE / Fashion<br />

HERITAGE / 63<br />

put together a look that is European,<br />

but has an African twist.<br />

The movement can be traced back<br />

to the Congolese resistance in the 1920s,<br />

when young men sought to adopt and<br />

imitate French and Belgian clothes as a<br />

way of combating colonial superiority.<br />

Congolese houseboys spurned their<br />

masters’ secondhand clothes and became<br />

defiant consumers, acquiring the latest<br />

fashions from Paris by spending their<br />

small monthly wages extravagantly.<br />

After independence in 1960, Kinshasa<br />

– the Democratic Republic of the Congo’s<br />

capital – and Brazzaville became centres<br />

for a new African Francophone elite.<br />

They travelled to Paris and London,<br />

returning with designer clothes. Congolese<br />

people are known for taking pride<br />

in their appearance – their maxim being<br />

that they would rather dress well than eat<br />

well – yet La SAPE takes the art of looking<br />

good to the next level. Papa Wemba,<br />

the famously dapper Congolese rumba<br />

singer credited with popularising the<br />

Sapeur look, said inspiration for La<br />

SAPE came from his parents who, in the<br />

1960s, were, “always well put together,<br />

always looking very smart.”<br />

Although during the 1980s there<br />

were campaigns to ban Sapeurs from<br />

public spaces, they have been resurgent<br />

in recent years, and are now treated<br />

with respect as a vital and life-affirming<br />

part of the country’s cultural heritage.<br />

Sapeurs of all ages continue to gather<br />

to dance, talk and have friendly fashion<br />

face-offs as they compete for the bestdressed<br />

title. In a country torn apart by<br />

colonialism, corruption, civil war and<br />

poverty, the Sapeurs have found that<br />

shared sartorial ambitions – and their<br />

gentlemanly civil code of conduct – can<br />

help to heal the infighting. “I don’t see<br />

how anyone in La SAPE could be<br />

violent or fight. Peace means a lot to<br />

us,” says Severin (62), whose father was<br />

also a Sapeur.<br />

The La SAPE movement is constantly<br />

evolving beause the country’s disenfranchised<br />

youth see fashion as a way of<br />

navigating the journey from developing<br />

country to a more hopeful future.<br />

Despite being a tradition passed down<br />

the patrilineage, many Congolese women<br />

have begun donning designer suits, in<br />

order to become “Sapeuses”. And the<br />

increasing La SAPE following across<br />

Central Africa is being helped by the<br />

region’s exuberance and freedom of<br />

expression.<br />

As Papa Wemba once said, “White<br />

people invented the clothes, but we make<br />

an art of it.” Indeed, a quick perusal of<br />

the images herein should leave you in<br />

little doubt as to “who wore it better?”<br />

Boukaka (30) has<br />

been a Sapeur for 25<br />

years. He works as<br />

an electrician, has a<br />

child and is married.<br />

Although he loves<br />

his Ray-Ban glasses<br />

and Tissot watch, his<br />

favourite accessory is<br />

his earring.<br />

“The Sapeurs<br />

will spend<br />

US$3,000 on a<br />

suit when they<br />

don’t even have<br />

running water”<br />

© Tariq Zaidi<br />

Above: Maxim (43) has been a Sapeur<br />

since he was seven years old. He mixes<br />

labels such as Yves Saint Laurent and<br />

Christian Dior with suits that he has made<br />

himself. Now married and the father of<br />

two children, he teaches others the art of<br />

dressing elegantly. Left: Nino (31) takes a<br />

stroll through his neighbourhood with his<br />

Mississippi-style wooden pipe. He paints<br />

houses and fixes roofs, but in Sapeur<br />

mode, he’s treated like a rock star.


ENTERTAINMENT / 65<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

offers its passengers<br />

complimentary inflight<br />

entertainment.<br />

The programme will<br />

vary in different aircraft<br />

types. Check your<br />

screen to view the<br />

selection on your flight.<br />

Relax & Enjoy<br />

Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />

African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />

games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />

Gravity<br />

(read more on the next page)<br />

“ You just point the damned thing at Earth.<br />

It’s not rocket science”<br />

– Matt Kowalski –<br />

Played by George Clooney in the movie Gravity<br />

MOVIE RATINGS<br />

G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />

R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.


66 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT / 67<br />

New Releases<br />

New Releases<br />

Gravity<br />

Sci-Fi<br />

Alfonso Cuarón approached the<br />

creation of Gravity with one clear<br />

theme in mind: adversity. From<br />

this sprung the image of a lone<br />

figure spinning into space.<br />

Gravity follows medical engineer Dr.<br />

Ryan Stone (Sandra Bullock) as she<br />

embarks on her first space mission.<br />

Alongside her, on his last expedition<br />

before retirement, is veteran astronaut<br />

Matt Kowalski (George Clooney).<br />

When debris strikes their shuttle, causing<br />

irreparable damage and killing all<br />

but Stone and Kowalski, the two are left<br />

stranded with little hope of rescue.<br />

Though intent on survival, they must<br />

overcome extreme conditions and acute<br />

isolation as they fight to make it back to<br />

Earth. On more than one occasion, the<br />

looming maw of space forces them to<br />

confront their own mortality.<br />

Cuarón and his team were faced with<br />

unique challenges as they worked to<br />

accurately simulate the physics of space.<br />

They were pushing the boundaries of<br />

film-making, and at times it seemed as<br />

thought their dream was impossible to<br />

execute. Four years of dedication and<br />

innovation later however, Gravity came<br />

to screens in all its cinematic glory. It<br />

has since been lauded for its cinematography,<br />

visual effects, musical score and<br />

direction. Sandra Bullock’s performance<br />

was also met with much critical acclaim.<br />

Tag (2018) COMEDY<br />

Every year, five friends meet to play tag, which they’ve done since school. This<br />

year, the game coincides with the wedding of the only undefeated player.<br />

Jeremy Renner, Ed Helms, Jake Johnson. R, 100 mins. Director: Jeff Tomsic.<br />

Crazy Rich Asians (2018) COMEDY<br />

This contemporary romantic comedy, based on a global bestseller, follows<br />

native New Yorker Rachel Chu to Singapore to meet her boyfriend’s family.<br />

Constance Wu, Henry Golding. PG-13, 120 mins, Director: Jon M. Chu.<br />

Modern Life Is Rubbish (2017) COMEDY<br />

Brought together by their shared love of music, Liam and Natalie are at<br />

breaking point. In their case, opposites attract in the short term.<br />

Ian Hart. R, 105 mins. Director: Daniel Jerome Gill.<br />

Ocean’s 8 (2018) ACTION<br />

Just out of prison, Danny Ocean’s sister and criminal mastermind, Debbie,<br />

gathers a crew of female thieves to pull off the heist of the century.<br />

Sandra Bullock, Cate Blanchett. PG-13, 110 mins. Director: Gary Ross.<br />

The Darkest Minds (2018) SCI-FI<br />

After a disease kills most of America’s children, the survivors develop superpowers<br />

and are placed in internment camps. A group of teens escapes.<br />

Mandy Moore. PG-13, 103 mins. Director: Jennifer Yuh Nelson.<br />

The Predator (2018) ACTION<br />

When the universe’s most lethal hunters return to Earth, only a ragtag<br />

crew of ex-soldiers and a teacher can prevent the end of the human race.<br />

Yvonne Strahovski, Olivia Munn. R, 107 mins. Director: Shane Black.<br />

Sandra Bullock, George Clooney.<br />

PG-13, 91 mins. Director: Alfonso Cuarón.<br />

Did you know<br />

~ It took more than three years to create the film’s visual effects.<br />

~ During filming Sandra Bullock was placed inside a giant, mechanical<br />

rig for up to 10 hours at a time.<br />

The Mercy (2018) ADVENTURE<br />

The incredible story of amateur sailor Donald Crowhurst and his solo attempt<br />

to circumnavigate the globe.<br />

Rachel Weisz, Colin Firth. R, 112 mins. Director: James Marsh.<br />

The Wedding Guest (2017) COMEDY<br />

Returning home for his ex-girlfriend’s wedding, Adam must convince himself<br />

and everyone else that he is truly happy for her.<br />

Lea Thompson, Cobie Smulders. R, 105 mins. Director: Ryan Eggold.<br />

The Meg (2018) ACTION<br />

After escaping an attack by what he claims was a 21-m shark, Jonas Taylor<br />

must confront his fears to save those trapped in a sunken submersible.<br />

Ruby Rose, Jason Statham. PG-13, 113 mins. Director: Jon Turteltaub.


68 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT / 69<br />

African Highlights<br />

Bollywood<br />

My Story<br />

Dear Mummy B<br />

Film<br />

Picks from<br />

the continent<br />

We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,<br />

including drama and comedy.<br />

My Story (2018) DRAMA<br />

A civil engineer supervising a building in a poor village takes a liking to a<br />

poor boy. Things take an interesting turn when the engineer takes the boy<br />

with him to the city.<br />

Zubby Michael, Offiafuluagu Mbaka, Chizzy Alichi. R, 134 mins. Director:<br />

Daniel Chukwueze.<br />

Wet (2018) ROMANCE<br />

A successful career woman, who has been jilted by many men, falls in love<br />

with her assistant.<br />

Ruth Kadiri, Fred Peters. R, 94 mins. Director: Emmanuel Mang Eme.<br />

Dear Mummy B (2018) DRAMA<br />

A single mother’s advice to her daughter’s friend goes viral on the<br />

Internet, bringing with it fame and fortune. It also places a strain on their<br />

relationship.<br />

Ada Ameh, Yvonne Jegede Fawole. R, 100 mins. Director: Tope Oshin.<br />

Wet<br />

Cooked Up Love<br />

Cooked Up Love (2018) ROMANCE<br />

A combination of good looks, charisma and finesse makes Chef Abbey’s TV<br />

show the toast of the cooking community. A twist on the show results in an<br />

unlikely reunion with his ex.<br />

Enado Odigie, Bimbo Ademoye. R, 98 mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.<br />

Blood Brothers (2018) DRAMA<br />

A greedy man attempts to usurp family assets after the demise of his brother.<br />

However, his nephew decides to take measures to curb his uncle’s excesses.<br />

Daniel K Daniel, Chinwe Owoh. R, 132 mins.<br />

After Dark (2018) DRAMA<br />

A ghetto boy invites his friend to stay in his mother’s house, only for his<br />

presence to attract danger and propel his life in a different direction.<br />

Daniel K Daniel, Ebele Okaru Onyiuke. R, 136 mins.<br />

The Friend Zone (2017) DRAMA<br />

Two good friends find themselves in a predicament when their emotions<br />

get in the way of their friendship.<br />

Ebube Nwagbo, Onyii Alex. R, 97 mins.<br />

Wife for Rent (2016) ROMANCE<br />

An ambitious young man seeks out a wife to rent when a colleague tells<br />

him that he is likely to be overlooked for promotion at work because he’s<br />

unmarried.<br />

Seun Akindele, Mimi Orjiekwe, Tissy Nnachi. PG-13, 114 mins.<br />

We’ve selected some recent comedy, drama and musical titles<br />

from India’s Hindi-language cinema.<br />

Newton (2017) COMEDY<br />

A government clerk on election duty in the jungle<br />

tries to conduct fair voting despite the apathy of<br />

security forces and the fear of guerrilla attacks.<br />

Rajkummar Rao, Pankaj Tripathi, Anjali Patil.<br />

R, 106 mins. Director: Amit Masurkar.<br />

The Brawler (2017) ACTION<br />

Aspiring boxer Shravan works day and night to<br />

achieve his dream of becoming a professional.<br />

However, things go awry when he falls in love.<br />

Vineet Kumar Singh, Zoya Hussain. R, 154<br />

mins. Director: Anurag Kashyap.<br />

Blackmail (2018) ACTION<br />

When Dev finds out his wife is cheating on him,<br />

Blackmail<br />

Film<br />

Picks from<br />

Bollywood<br />

he secretly blackmails his wife and her lover as<br />

a form of revenge.<br />

Irrfan Khan, Kirti Kulhari. R, 138 mins. Director:<br />

Abhinay Deo.<br />

Almost Single (2017) COMEDY<br />

After reluctantly joining a dating app, a 35-yearold<br />

widow accompanies an easy-going poet on a<br />

trip to visit three of his exes.<br />

Irrfan Khan, Parvathy, Bajrangbali Singh. PG-13,<br />

125 mins. Director: Tanuja Chandra.<br />

“Long before<br />

me there was<br />

another Newton...<br />

I never understood<br />

what he meant<br />

while I was studying...<br />

but now<br />

while working I’ve<br />

understood it”<br />

Munna Michael (2017) MUSICAL<br />

A young man tries to follow in the footsteps of<br />

his idol, The King of Pop, Michael Jackson.<br />

Tiger Shroff. R, 140 mins. Director: Sabir Khan. – Newton –


70 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT / 71<br />

TV<br />

Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for<br />

your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />

of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,<br />

so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />

Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />

Spotlight on<br />

Van The<br />

Man<br />

Audio<br />

Friends<br />

Gillette World Sport<br />

Northern-Irish musician Van<br />

Morrison has touched copious<br />

hearts with his spellbinding music.<br />

With myriad hit songs, such as Brown<br />

Eyed Girl, Moondance, Someone Like You<br />

and Cyprus Avenue, Van Morrison has<br />

become a music legend. His second album,<br />

Astral Weeks, is regarded my most fans as<br />

his best work, and it’s considered in the<br />

industry to be one of the best albums of<br />

all time. Bruce Springsteen said that Astral<br />

Weeks gave him “a sense of the divine”.<br />

CNBC Conversation Fish Life 24: Live Another Day<br />

KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />

Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />

biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />

Small Screen<br />

Programmes<br />

& Series<br />

We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />

and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />

Comedy<br />

The Big Bang Theory, Season 10, Episodes 9, 10, 11: A woman who moves<br />

into an apartment across the hall from two brilliant but socially awkward<br />

physicists shows them how little they know about life outside of the laboratory.<br />

Friends, Season 6, Episodes 5, 6, 7: This comedy hit follows the personal<br />

and professional lives of six friends living in New York.<br />

Fresh Prince Of Bel-Air, Season 2, Episodes 1, 2, 3: A streetwise young<br />

man from Philadelphia is sent by his mother to live with his aunt, uncle and<br />

cousins in their Bel-Air mansion.<br />

Sports<br />

Gillette World Sport, Season 1, Episode 9: A look at sports around the<br />

world.<br />

Super Bowl LII: The 2008 Super Bowl was one of the most sensational<br />

season finales in 52 years, setting several records.<br />

Pure Outdoor, Season 1, Episode 1: A look at the eco sports that people<br />

have now embraced in their leisure time.<br />

Pathfinders, Season 1, Episode 3: Pathfinders follows travellers who seek<br />

adventure and open spaces.<br />

Lifestyle<br />

Dreams Aquamarine: A film that promotes relaxation through the use of<br />

ocean colours and sounds.<br />

Spirited Traveller, Season 1, Episode 1: Chef Kiran Jethwa maps Indian<br />

cuisines and culture.<br />

Cities Turn Green, Season 1, Episode 3: Portraits of New York’s urban<br />

farmers.<br />

Discover<br />

Fish Life, Season 1, Episode 6: Witness the profusion of life that inhabits<br />

the world’s oceans.<br />

City Tour New York: Home to the Empire State Building, Times Square, the<br />

Statue of Liberty and other iconic sites, New York is a fast-paced, globally<br />

influential centre of art, culture, fashion and finance.<br />

News<br />

CNBC Conversation: Coverage of recent economic events.<br />

Real Economy: Real Economy hones in on the economic issues that impact<br />

our everyday lives.<br />

Lasting Legacy, Season 2, Episode 1: Lasting Legacy goes behind the<br />

scenes of some of Europe’s most successful family businesses, to find out<br />

just how family life and company strategy cross over.<br />

Drama<br />

Bones, Season 11, Episode 7, 8: Forensic anthropologist Dr. Temperance<br />

“Bones” Brennan and cocky FBI Special Agent Seeley Booth build a team to<br />

investigate murders. More often than not there isn’t much more to examine<br />

than rotten flesh and mere bones.<br />

24: Live Another Day, Season 9, Episodes 3, 4: Jack Bauer comes out of<br />

hiding in London to head off a massive terrorist attack while being hunted<br />

down by American forces dispatched by President James Heller.<br />

African Classics<br />

The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />

from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />

Jazz<br />

Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />

the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />

Pop<br />

Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most-loved<br />

pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />

Dance Hall/Reggae<br />

We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />

diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />

Classical<br />

Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />

awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />

Chinese Pop<br />

The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />

of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />

Easy Listening<br />

Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />

sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />

Meditation<br />

Sit back, relax and de-stress to the ultimate<br />

meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />

“The first piece of music<br />

that captured my imagination<br />

was probably Ray Charles Live<br />

At Newport”<br />

– Van Morrison –<br />

Getty Images


72 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Kids<br />

Animation<br />

Teen Titans Go! To The Movies<br />

A villain’s maniacal plan<br />

for world domination<br />

side-tracks five teenage<br />

superheroes who dream<br />

of Hollywood stardom.<br />

With a few madcap ideas and<br />

a song in their heart, the Teen<br />

Titans head to Tinsel Town,<br />

certain to pull off their dream<br />

of starring in their own film.<br />

But when the group is radically<br />

misdirected by a super villain<br />

and his maniacal plan to take<br />

over the Earth, things really go<br />

awry. The team finds their<br />

friendship and their fighting<br />

spirit failing, putting the very<br />

fate of the Teen Titans themselves<br />

on the line.<br />

Greg Cipes, Scott Menville. PG, 88<br />

mins. Directors: Aaron Horvath,<br />

Peter Rida Michail<br />

Film and TV<br />

The Ones to Watch<br />

These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />

If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />

from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />

Happiness Is A Warm<br />

Blanket, Charlie Brown<br />

Linus is pushed to his limits when he<br />

learns Grandma is coming to visit.<br />

Austin Lux, Amanda Pace. G, 60<br />

mins. Directors: Frank Molieri,<br />

Andrew Beall<br />

Tom & Jerry (Classic)<br />

Tom, a grey-and-white cat is always<br />

trying to catch Jerry, a little brown<br />

mouse.<br />

Compilation<br />

Captain Planet And The<br />

Planeteers<br />

A quintet of teenagers work together<br />

to encourage environmentally<br />

responsible behaviour.<br />

Season 1, Episode 9<br />

The Flintstones<br />

The misadventures of a modern-day<br />

Stone Age family, The Flintstones.<br />

Season 1, Episode 15


SAFARI NJEMA / 75<br />

Saint Valentine of Rome, who<br />

was executed for performing<br />

weddings for soldiers, signed his<br />

farewell letter, “Your Valentine”.<br />

✈ To book flights to Gabon go to<br />

kenya-airways.com.<br />

Safari Njema<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Five Valentine<br />

Hotspots in New York<br />

1 Brooklyn Bridge<br />

provides great views of<br />

Manhattan as you<br />

walk across it on your<br />

way to your romantic<br />

dinner. It will also<br />

ensure that you have a<br />

good appetite.<br />

2 Frenchette<br />

is a very popular<br />

French restaurant<br />

that’s hard to get a<br />

table at before 10 p.m.,<br />

so if you want to impress<br />

your Valentine,<br />

book a month ahead.<br />

3 Blue Hill<br />

has a menu that’s<br />

based on seasonal<br />

crops grown at nearby<br />

farms; a sustainable<br />

choice for the environmentally<br />

conscious<br />

cupid.<br />

4 Westlight<br />

is a great rooftop bar<br />

in Williamsburg where<br />

you can enjoy cocktails<br />

and toast to the sweeping<br />

views of Queens,<br />

Manhattan and<br />

Brooklyn.<br />

5 Rockefeller Center<br />

provides a great activity<br />

for intrepid romantics:<br />

an outdoor ice-skating<br />

rink. Buy tickets in<br />

advance or just show<br />

up. The last session<br />

starts at 10.30 p.m.


Kenya Airways<br />

launched a carbon<br />

offset programme in<br />

2011, the first African<br />

airline to do so.<br />

News<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 77<br />

✈ Kenya Airways’ New York route<br />

requires 4 pilots and 12 flight<br />

attendants.<br />

The Flying Blue interview<br />

Company Man<br />

The Flying Blue Gold member and Senior Executive Director of Kenafric Industries<br />

Ltd. was on the recent inaugural non-stop flight to New York. While growing his<br />

business, Mayur Shah has spent countless hours in the sky with Kenya Airways.<br />

Mayur Kumar V. Shah<br />

Nationality<br />

Kenyan<br />

Profession<br />

Senior Executive Director of<br />

Kenafric Industries Ltd.: one of<br />

the largest home-grown and<br />

privately owned consumer goods<br />

makers in East Africa.<br />

What’s your personal story?<br />

I was born in Karatina as the youngest in<br />

a family of four brothers. My father came<br />

to Kenya from Gujarat, India, in search<br />

of greener pastures. After many years, he<br />

began a wholesale business. This is where<br />

I got my love for entrepreneurship. It<br />

runs in my blood. I’m passionate about<br />

positioning Kenafric as the leading<br />

household manufacturer of diverse<br />

consumer goods, from footwear and<br />

confectionery, to food and stationery.<br />

What does Kenya Airways mean to you?<br />

My relationship with Kenya Airways<br />

spans over 20 years. It’s my only solution<br />

when travelling to many destinations. A<br />

national symbol that’s true to its mantra:<br />

it is indeed the Pride of Africa.<br />

What examples do you have that<br />

illustrate this?<br />

Kenya Airways has been instrumental to<br />

the success of my business. The airline’s<br />

robust network has enabled us to penetrate<br />

many markets across Africa. We<br />

export to over 25 countries including<br />

the Democratic Republic of the Congo,<br />

Senegal, Mali, Uganda and, recently,<br />

Ghana.<br />

What keeps you coming back?<br />

The world-class service and care I receive<br />

on board. As a frequent flyer, the<br />

staff recognise me and make me feel<br />

appreciated. The warm, friendly African<br />

hospitality is something I experience<br />

whenever I travel with the airline.<br />

Why is the direct flight to New York so<br />

important to you?<br />

It’s a real game-changer as the fastest<br />

connection from East Africa to New<br />

York. At only 14-15 hours, I get to save<br />

time, which is key for a business traveller<br />

like me. It will also play a pivotal role in<br />

boosting our economy. I see immense<br />

trade opportunities for Kenya and New<br />

York. It will help push up tourist numbers<br />

and promote trade and investment<br />

in both regions.<br />

What makes you feel proud when<br />

travelling?<br />

As a country, we are already known for<br />

our famous game reserves like Maasai<br />

Mara, and our long-distance runners.<br />

Now we can add Kenya Airways to the<br />

list as the first airline in East Africa to<br />

offer non-stop flights to New York. This<br />

is something to be proud of: the feeling<br />

that I’m supporting and building Kenya<br />

whenever I travel the Pride of Africa.<br />

“Kenya Airways has been<br />

instrumental to the success<br />

of my business”<br />

What’s your most interesting travel<br />

encounter?<br />

Once, while travelling to Tanzania, I met<br />

a business mogul on board a Kenya<br />

Airways flight with whom I was able to<br />

close my first deal for Dar es Salaam!<br />

Other important people I have met include:<br />

Ted Turner, founder of CNN,<br />

and Frank and Dan Carney, founders<br />

of Pizza Hut. They helped me to establish<br />

the route I wanted to take in my<br />

career, which has since created a new<br />

destiny for my family and I. Finally, I<br />

must not forget the Kenya Airways crew,<br />

who light up my travels on every flight.


78 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

Want to know the carbon<br />

emission of your flight?<br />

Visit climatecare.org<br />

and click on the<br />

carbon calculator.<br />

News<br />

✈ Kenya Airways now flies to<br />

Paris more often, with six direct<br />

flights each week.<br />

Leadership<br />

Mikosz Attends Key Meeting<br />

Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian<br />

Mikosz joined other African aviation leaders for the 50th<br />

African Airlines Association (AFRAA) Annual General<br />

Assembly (AGA) and Summit on 25 and 26 November<br />

2018 in Rabat, Morocco.<br />

The AGA and summit is a high-profile air transport event<br />

dedicated to airline CEOs and invited top executives in the<br />

aviation industry. It brings together more aviation industry<br />

executives and principal decision-makers than any aviation<br />

event in Africa.<br />

Like any other annual general meeting, the event provided an<br />

opportunity for the sector’s leaders to deal with the most important<br />

issues, which include the trends, challenges and opportunities<br />

in Africa.<br />

Speaking during the CEOs’ roundtable, Mikosz said, “African<br />

airlines should not shy away from the high standards set out<br />

because it’s in high compliance that the African airlines will<br />

soar and thrive to even greater heights. Let’s not compromise<br />

on standards.”<br />

“I must not forget the<br />

Kenya Airways crew,<br />

who light up my travels<br />

on every flight”<br />

Farming<br />

Grafting For<br />

Better Yields<br />

In southeastern Kenya, low and unpredictable rainfall<br />

has caused consistently poor agricultural yields and<br />

negatively affected local communities who rely on<br />

subsistence farming.<br />

Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon offsetting partner,<br />

carries out training with communities living in the Kasigau<br />

Corridor in Tsavo using alternative crops that are better adapted<br />

to growing in low rainfall. As part of this, Wildlife Works has<br />

been grafting fruit seedlings since 2004.<br />

Grafting involves joining a scion of a desired high-yield plant<br />

onto a root stock seedling of a drought-resistant local variety.<br />

Grafted seedlings produce high-quality and fast-maturing<br />

plants, and provide tremendous opportunities for small-scale<br />

farmers to enhance their incomes. Wildlife Works demonstrates<br />

the grafting process to local community groups and school<br />

groups (among others), and is proud to support farmers in<br />

increasing yields, reducing the reliance on food aid and<br />

empowering Kenyans to support their families financially.<br />

− Mayur Shah −<br />

Flying Blue Gold member<br />

~ Offset your carbon With your Kenya Airways flight you can help to<br />

protect the environment. Simply tick a box when booking to offset<br />

carbon emissions per journey. Funds go to initiatives in conjunction<br />

with Wildlife Works. Visit wildlifeworks.com to find out more.


80 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 81<br />

About 80 percent of<br />

Somalia’s population are<br />

pastoralists.<br />

News<br />

✈ To book your flight to<br />

Mogadishu go to jambojet.com<br />

How many Miles did you<br />

earn while flying to your<br />

current destination? Find out<br />

online with the Flying Blue<br />

Miles Calculator.<br />

Flying Blue<br />

✈ There are new discounted award<br />

tickets, or Promo Awards, available<br />

every month, saving you up<br />

to 50 percent on Award Miles.<br />

Expansion<br />

Cargo Flights Begin to The US<br />

Kenya Airways’ inaugural cargo flight to New York’s John F.<br />

Kennedy International Airport from Jomo Kenyatta International<br />

Airport in Nairobi took place on 1 December paving<br />

the way for increased trade between the two countries.<br />

“We have gone through the entire regulatory clearances with<br />

the TSA [Transport Security Authority], and we have been<br />

engaging our customers on the potential. So if I look at the<br />

demand in the pipeline, my worry now is that payload may<br />

become an issue, but the demand is certainly there,” said<br />

Commercial Manager Cargo Kenya Airways Peter Musola in<br />

an NTV Kenya news report.<br />

CEO Kenya Private Sector Alliance Carole Kariuki added, “A<br />

lot of our products – horticultural flowers – have gone through<br />

Europe and that is time lost. Remember, these are perishable<br />

goods, so it means a lot more cost working on all manner of<br />

technology to preserve them. This shortens all of that, meaning<br />

more traffic of our products this way and more fresh products<br />

that would come to the US market from Kenya.”<br />

“The Pride of<br />

Africa flies to<br />

53 destinations<br />

worldwide”<br />

− Sebastian Mikosz −<br />

Group Managing Director and<br />

CEO Kenya Airways<br />

Service improvements<br />

Select Your<br />

Seat<br />

Kenya Airways has introduced a seat selection option<br />

in Economy Class, meaning that guests can now<br />

reserve a Preferred Seat or Extra Legroom Seat and<br />

enjoy a little more comfort for a small fee.<br />

Preferred Seats, which are closer to the front of the aircraft,<br />

allow customers to disembark quicker, while the Extra Legroom<br />

Seats offer a little more comfort than the rest of the Economy<br />

Class cabin.<br />

“We want to provide a choice of seat selection to enhance the<br />

travel experience of those who prefer extra comfort, or being<br />

seated in the front part of the Economy Class cabin for easy<br />

access to the exit points,” said Group Managing Director and<br />

CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian Mikosz.<br />

This product is available on all Kenya Airways-operated<br />

flights. Guests can now purchase their seats any time before<br />

departure on our website – Kenya-airways.com – or any of<br />

our sales outlets.<br />

Kenya Airways flies to 43 destinations in Africa and carries over<br />

4 million passengers annually. The Pride of Africa flies to 53<br />

destinations worldwide. The airline continues to modernise its<br />

fleet with its 32 aircraft being some of the youngest in Africa.<br />

Membership levels<br />

Redeem<br />

Your<br />

Miles!<br />

The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />

Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways, Air France,<br />

KLM, Joon, HOP!, Transavia, Aircalin, TAROM, SkyTeam,<br />

or other airline partners. You can redeem your Miles to fly with<br />

Kenya Airways or upgrade your seats to Business Class.<br />

There are four membership levels in Flying Blue, and with each qualifying<br />

flight you take, you gain XP (Experience Points). When you first enrol,<br />

you will be awarded Explorer status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and<br />

ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with Kenya Airways or one of<br />

our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in you<br />

earning more Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />

Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations operated by Kenya<br />

Airways or our partner airlines. Go for an upgrade, a seat with more<br />

legroom or an “a la carte” feast with your Miles. Pay for your hotel stay<br />

or car rental with Miles. Your accumulated Miles are valid for life as long<br />

as you take an eligible flight at least once every two years. The total number<br />

of Miles credited to your account on Kenya Airways-marketed flights is<br />

based on distance, the booking class earning percentage, and the Elite<br />

bonus earning percentage, if applicable.<br />

~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />

Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />

1<br />

Exchange<br />

Reward Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />

any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />

Business Class.<br />

2<br />

Check<br />

Your choice of destination determines the<br />

number of Miles required for your Reward ticket.<br />

Log on to flyingblue.com to check if you have<br />

sufficient Miles for your choice. It is advisable<br />

to have flexible date options in case your initial<br />

choice is not available.<br />

3<br />

Redeem<br />

Once you have made your choice, you can<br />

redeem your Award Miles by two methods:<br />

A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in Nairobi<br />

on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />

or +254 711 024747.<br />

B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to Loyalty Program,<br />

Flying Blue, Earn and Spend.<br />

For further information, you can always contact us at<br />

kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />

4<br />

Tax<br />

Reward Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />

will need to be paid for separately and this can be<br />

done so via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment<br />

at any Kenya Airways office.<br />

5<br />

Easy Does It<br />

Five steps to make<br />

the most of your Miles.<br />

Ticket<br />

Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />

will be sent to you by email.<br />

~ Reward tickets are subject to seat availability. The<br />

number of Miles required varies depending on available<br />

booking class.<br />

~ Miles can be used for flights and for upgrades to<br />

Business Class when you have already purchased<br />

an Economy Class Kenya Airways ticket on<br />

Y,B,M,U,K,H,L,Q,T,R,N & V classes for all routes. All<br />

upgrades are subject to seat availability in Business Class.


SkyTeam operates more than<br />

17,000 departures a day to 1,080<br />

destinations in 177 countries, and<br />

offers SkyTeam members 750<br />

lounges in airports worldwide.<br />

SkyTeam<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 83<br />

✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a<br />

major airline alliance that consists of 20<br />

carriers from 5 continents.<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

Another Exciting Year<br />

for SkyTeam<br />

January is a month to start afresh<br />

and look ahead, so we’ve decided<br />

to reveal just a little of what you<br />

can expect from SkyTeam and its<br />

member airlines in <strong>2019</strong>.<br />

This month, Garuda Indonesia celebrates<br />

70 years in the sky, while Xiamen<br />

Air becomes 35 in July. In <strong>2019</strong>, Korean<br />

Air turns 50, China Airlines becomes<br />

60, Air France and Aeromexico both<br />

reach 85 and KLM, one of the world’s<br />

longest-operating airlines, will celebrate<br />

its centenary in October. As for Sky-<br />

Team, we turn 19 on 22 June.<br />

Anniversaries aside, there are plenty<br />

more developments to look forward to<br />

in the coming months. Customers flying<br />

with Middle East Airlines from Beirut<br />

will be among the first to see its brandnew<br />

airport expansion; keep an eye out<br />

for updates as we countdown to the<br />

grand opening.<br />

SkyTeam launched its very first lounge<br />

in London’s Heathrow Airport in 2009,<br />

so this year marks our 10th year of<br />

lounges, and the good news is that we<br />

have no plans to slow down; in fact,<br />

we’re adding more! This year will see<br />

brand-new facilities open in Santiago<br />

and Istanbul New Airport, giving you<br />

more opportunities than ever to work,<br />

call loved ones or simply unwind before<br />

your flight.<br />

Elsewhere, Air Europa will give customers<br />

more choice and add two new routes<br />

to its offering: Panama from February<br />

and Iguazu from June. The airline will<br />

also grow its fleet with five new Boeing<br />

787-9s and its first three Boeing 737<br />

MAXs.<br />

They’re not the only ones: China Eastern<br />

Airlines and Aeromexico will also sign<br />

for new aircraft. And the latter has rolled<br />

out a carefully crafted new menu for<br />

Business Class customers on Europebound<br />

flights.<br />

~ This is only a taste of what’s to come this year,<br />

follow us on Instagram @skyteamalliance on<br />

Facebook @SkyTeam or visit skyteam.com.


84 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 85<br />

Global Network<br />

Kenya Airways Fleet<br />

UNITED<br />

STATES<br />

London<br />

GREAT-BRITAIN<br />

THE NETHERLANDS<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Paris<br />

FRANCE<br />

Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />

Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />

227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />

engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />

56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />

New York<br />

SENEGAL<br />

Dakar<br />

Bamako<br />

Freetown<br />

SIERRA LEONE<br />

Monrovia<br />

LIBERIA<br />

MALI<br />

COTE<br />

BENIN<br />

Abuja<br />

D'IVOIRE<br />

GHANA<br />

Lagos<br />

Abidjan<br />

Accra<br />

Cotonou<br />

NIGERIA<br />

Djibouti<br />

DJIBOUTI<br />

CENTRAL<br />

SOUTH SUDAN<br />

ETHIOPIA<br />

CAMEROON<br />

AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />

Juba<br />

Douala<br />

Yaoundé<br />

Bangui<br />

UGANDA<br />

KENYA<br />

Entebbe/Kampala<br />

Libreville<br />

Kisumu<br />

GABON<br />

Kigali<br />

NAIROBI<br />

RWANDA<br />

Brazzaville<br />

DEMOCRATIC<br />

REPUBLIC OF<br />

Bujumbura<br />

Kilimanjaro<br />

Mombasa<br />

Kinshasa<br />

THE CONGO<br />

BURUNDI<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Luanda<br />

SUDAN<br />

Khartoum<br />

Addis<br />

Ababa<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

SOMALIA<br />

UNITED<br />

ARAB<br />

EMIRATES<br />

Dubai<br />

Mahé<br />

SEYCHELLES<br />

Moroni/COMOROS<br />

ANGOLA<br />

Lubumbashi<br />

MALAWI<br />

Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />

Ndola<br />

Lilongwe<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

Lusaka<br />

Blantyre<br />

Nampula<br />

Livingstone<br />

Victoria Harare<br />

Falls<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Antananarivo<br />

MAURITIUS<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

MADAGASCAR<br />

Mumbai<br />

INDIA<br />

Bangkok<br />

THAILAND<br />

CHINA<br />

Guangzhou<br />

Boeing 737-800<br />

Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />

79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />

cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />

sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />

Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />

Boeing 737-700<br />

Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />

70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />

Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />

Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />

Johannesburg<br />

Maputo<br />

Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />

SOUTH<br />

AFRICA<br />

Cape Town<br />

Embraer 190<br />

Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />

51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />

engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />

Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m


86 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 87<br />

The Nairobi National Park<br />

stopover package allows guests<br />

travelling on flight KQ101 from<br />

London Heathrow to enjoy a<br />

wildlife tour during their transit.<br />

Welcome to Kenya<br />

✈ Passengers travelling in<br />

a group of at least ten<br />

(economy cabin) or five<br />

(business cabin), can<br />

request for a group fare.<br />

SOUTH-<br />

SUD A N<br />

E T HIOPIA<br />

Practical tips<br />

Getty Images<br />

Getting around<br />

On Arrival<br />

TO THE CITY<br />

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />

from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />

drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />

VISA<br />

Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />

available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />

prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />

airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />

You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />

the moment of entry.<br />

Health<br />

Emergency services<br />

Dial 999. Note that<br />

ambulance services are<br />

mostly private. Services<br />

include: St Johns<br />

Ambulance +254 72 161<br />

1555 or Kenya Red<br />

Cross Ambulance<br />

+254 71 771 4938.<br />

Hospitals<br />

Nairobi and Mombasa<br />

have good hospitals.<br />

Medical expenses<br />

Make sure you have<br />

adequate travel health<br />

insurance and accessible<br />

funds to cover the cost of<br />

any medical treatment.<br />

Consultations and<br />

treatments will have to<br />

be paid for at the time,<br />

and the costs claimed<br />

back later.<br />

General<br />

Voltage<br />

240 volts AC, using<br />

three-square-pin,<br />

13-amp-type plugs.<br />

Security<br />

It is advisable not to walk<br />

alone in isolated areas<br />

in towns or on beaches,<br />

particularly after dark.<br />

Tipping<br />

Tips are appreciated. Most<br />

hotels/restaurants add a<br />

10 percent service charge.<br />

Water<br />

It is wise to drink or use<br />

only boiled or bottled water,<br />

and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />

Self-drive<br />

Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />

side of the road, and<br />

most cars are right-hand<br />

drive. A current driving<br />

licence with photograph is<br />

accepted for up to a threemonth<br />

stay.<br />

Public transport<br />

Nairobi is the only city with<br />

an effective municipal bus<br />

What & How<br />

service. Local (private)<br />

matatus are the main<br />

means of getting around.<br />

Taxi service Uber operates<br />

in Nairobi and Mombasa.<br />

Photography<br />

Taking photographs of<br />

official buildings, including<br />

embassies, can lead to<br />

detention. Photography is<br />

also prohibited at airports.<br />

Embassies & consulates<br />

All embassies are<br />

located in Nairobi.<br />

ID<br />

You must carry a valid form<br />

of ID with you at all times.<br />

Post office<br />

Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />

Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />

a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />

Telephone/internet<br />

Phone cards may be<br />

bought from post offices<br />

or international call<br />

offices. Emails can be sent<br />

from most hotels.<br />

Money matters<br />

Currency<br />

Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />

Currency regulations<br />

There are no restrictions on<br />

the movement of currency<br />

into or out of Kenya for<br />

currency transactions.<br />

Banking<br />

Banks are generally open<br />

from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />

Mondays to Fridays;<br />

and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />

Saturdays. Banks in<br />

coastal towns open<br />

and close half an hour<br />

earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />

international VISA cards.<br />

Credit cards<br />

Visa and MasterCard are<br />

widely accepted.<br />

Hotel bill payment<br />

Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />

convertible currency.<br />

Most hotels also accept<br />

credit cards.<br />

Gulu<br />

UGA N D A<br />

Lokichokio<br />

Sibiloi<br />

Central<br />

National<br />

Songot 1755 m Island<br />

Park<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Namoratunga<br />

Muruasigar<br />

Stones<br />

2149 m<br />

LAKE<br />

TURKANA<br />

Lodwar<br />

Nasolot<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Maralal<br />

Saiwa<br />

National<br />

Matthew’s Peak<br />

Swamp<br />

Sanctuary<br />

2375 m<br />

Mt Elgon<br />

National<br />

National Park<br />

Kaisungua<br />

Maralal<br />

Reserve<br />

Kitale<br />

3167 m<br />

Samburu<br />

National<br />

Mt Elgon<br />

Kerio Valley<br />

Reserve<br />

Shaba National<br />

4322 m<br />

National Reserve<br />

Reserve<br />

ELDORET<br />

Archer’s Post<br />

LAKE BARING O<br />

Kakamega<br />

Buffalo Springs<br />

Forest Reserve<br />

Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />

National<br />

Meru<br />

Reserve<br />

National Reserve<br />

National<br />

Kakamega<br />

Park<br />

Ndere Island<br />

Nanyuki<br />

National Park<br />

KISUMU<br />

Meru<br />

Mt Londiani<br />

Rusinga Island<br />

Kericho<br />

3000 m<br />

North<br />

Nakuru<br />

Mt Kenya<br />

Kitu<br />

Lake Nakuru<br />

5199 m<br />

National<br />

Mfangango<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Nyerri<br />

Embu<br />

Reserve<br />

Island<br />

Kisii<br />

Muranga’a Mwea<br />

Ruma<br />

Hell’s Gate<br />

National<br />

LAKE<br />

National<br />

National Park<br />

Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />

Park<br />

RIFT VALLEY<br />

VICTORIA<br />

Longonot National Park<br />

Thika<br />

Migori<br />

Narok<br />

NAIROBI<br />

Oi Donyo National Park<br />

Masai Mara<br />

Nairobi<br />

National Reserve<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Chantal van Wessel<br />

TA NZANIA<br />

South<br />

Turkana<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

South<br />

Island<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

RIFT VALLEY<br />

LAKE<br />

MAGADI<br />

Shompole<br />

Conservancy<br />

CHALBI DESERT<br />

Loiyangalani<br />

Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />

OFFICES & AGENTS<br />

Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />

P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />

Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />

Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />

Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />

Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />

JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />

Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />

Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />

Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />

Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />

Kajiado<br />

West<br />

Chyulu Game<br />

Conservation<br />

Area<br />

Amboseli<br />

National Park<br />

Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />

Marsabit<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Losai<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Marsabit<br />

Marsabit<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Tsavo West<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

K ENYA<br />

Tsavo<br />

East<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Voi<br />

Kora<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Moyale<br />

Rahole<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Mwaluganje<br />

Elephant<br />

Sanctuary<br />

Shimba Hills<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Garissa<br />

MOMBASA<br />

Wajir<br />

Tana River<br />

Primate National<br />

Reserve<br />

Malka Mari<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Arabuko<br />

Malindi Marine<br />

Sokoke<br />

National Park<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Malindi<br />

Watamu Marine<br />

National Park<br />

Diani<br />

Kisite Marine National Park<br />

Kisite Marine National Park<br />

Boni<br />

National<br />

Arawale Reserve<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Dodori<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

SOMALIA<br />

INDIAN<br />

OCEAN<br />

100 km


SAFARI NJEMA / 89<br />

<br />

Cargo<br />

Very Important Pet<br />

Golden Ticket<br />

On board the maiden direct fiight<br />

from New York to Nairobi was a<br />

very special guest with a sky-high<br />

cuteness factor: a Goldendoodle<br />

puppy!<br />

Louie made the journey in cargo thanks<br />

to the joint efforts of Kenya Airways,<br />

Avia Cargo and The ARK at JFK's Pet<br />

Oasis. A cross between a Golden Retriever<br />

and Poodle, Louie was bred in Alabama<br />

and was on his way to his new home in<br />

Kenya.<br />

Delivered directly to the aircraft in time<br />

for the inaugural flight last October, Louie<br />

received the VIP experience. He was safely<br />

loaded and secured in the aircraft's temperature-controlled<br />

and pressurised cargo<br />

hold, where he rested during the trip. The<br />

doors opened in Nairobi, and Louie was<br />

carefully unloaded. After a veterinary<br />

inspection and a breeze through customs,<br />

he was united with his owner, who was<br />

pleased to see him in such good spirits,<br />

"I couldn't believe how happy, clean and<br />

excited he was after a 15-hour flight!" she<br />

says. "It not only makes me want to teil<br />

the world to trust how amazing Kenya<br />

Airways is, hut makes me confident to<br />

take Kenya Airways to JFK myself."<br />

Louie is just the first of many animals<br />

that are now able enjoy the ultra longhaul<br />

journey in comfort and safety.<br />

Kenya Airways is committed to providing<br />

the best possible travel experience for<br />

animals in transit. "KQ Live is our safe<br />

and caring service for the transportation<br />

of animals," says Boniface Mugugu,<br />

Cargo Sales Manager Kenya Airways<br />

(KQ). "We offer continuous care for<br />

animals by spe­cially trained staff before,<br />

during and after flights."<br />

KQ Live is available to all Kenya Airways<br />

destinations. As well as accompanied and<br />

unaccompanied pets, wild animals (such<br />

as rescued monkeys in the care of wildlife<br />

associations) are also allowed to travel.<br />

As live animals are the first item to<br />

come out of the aircraft upon arrival,<br />

both pets and wild animals are loaded<br />

last and kept next to the entrance, where<br />

off-loading time is at a minimum. In<br />

most cases, a vet is present before take<br />

off and on arrival as an extra measure.<br />

This is sometimes necessary for wild<br />

animals.<br />

Kenya Airways strictly adheres to a failsafe<br />

process that helps to prevent the<br />

illegal traflicking of wildlife, particularly<br />

endangered species. A dedicated sales<br />

and customer service team attend to all<br />

questions or concerns, and information<br />

about anima! shipments is available via a<br />

track and trace system on the website<br />

after flight departure.


90 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

KQ won the Best<br />

Business Class in<br />

Africa for five years<br />

in a row from World<br />

Travel Awards.<br />

Get Comfortable<br />

✈ KQ received an International<br />

Safety Award in 2016 and 2017<br />

from the British Safety Council.<br />

What you need to know<br />

Flight Mode<br />

Safety<br />

Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />

take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />

pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />

Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />

and mobile phones may not be used during<br />

take-off and landing.<br />

Hand luggage<br />

Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />

or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />

will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />

seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />

1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />

meal and take some gentle exercise<br />

before your flight.<br />

Travel<br />

On The Move<br />

Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />

2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />

3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />

up and walking in the aisle when<br />

possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />

shoulders and neck.<br />

4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />

journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />

throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />

“To get lost is to<br />

learn the way”<br />

– African proverb –<br />

moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />

drink plenty of water and moderate<br />

your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />

5 When travelling across time zones<br />

your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />

disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />

appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />

some time to adjust to new night and<br />

day cycles when you arrive.<br />

6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />

possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />

body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />

Seat adjustments<br />

Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />

landing.<br />

Infants<br />

Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />

selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />

baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />

Inflight service<br />

A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />

flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />

are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />

courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />

spirits and soft drinks.<br />

Entertainment<br />

Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />

movies and music is available on our long- and<br />

medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />

guide in Msafiri.<br />

Take-off<br />

The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />

take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />

a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />

aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />

are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />

during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />

may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />

Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />

the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />

Landing<br />

After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />

engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />

to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />

engines are off and the doors are open.

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