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ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 5<br />
“These routes grow<br />
tourism, trade and investment,<br />
a goal for <strong>2019</strong>”<br />
Cover Image: Tariq Zaidi<br />
January <strong>2019</strong> edition 153<br />
kenya-airways.com<br />
Off The<br />
Chain<br />
Exploring the<br />
➔<br />
Seychelles<br />
Magical<br />
Metropolis<br />
The best of<br />
Barcelona<br />
FREE<br />
to Take<br />
Home!<br />
January <strong>2019</strong><br />
Tricks in<br />
Dandy<br />
Brazzaville<br />
Kenya Airways World<br />
Travel Awards<br />
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:<br />
2016, 2017<br />
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,<br />
Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,<br />
2016, 2017, 2018<br />
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,<br />
Economy Class: 2011, 2018<br />
Dear guests,<br />
Happy New Year, and warm<br />
greetings as we begin <strong>2019</strong>!<br />
As we start a new year and a new<br />
chapter, it is with a sense of pride and<br />
satisfaction that we look back on a<br />
year that has, in many respects, been<br />
challenging but positive.<br />
In October, we launched our first<br />
non-stop flights between Nairobi to New<br />
York – a historic event for both Kenya<br />
and East Africa. This milestone gives us<br />
the opportunity to offer a unique travel<br />
solution to our guests.<br />
In the same month, we returned to<br />
Gabon with the launch of direct flights<br />
between Nairobi and Libreville. Just a<br />
few months before, we launched nonstop<br />
flights to Cape Town, increasing our<br />
frequencies to South Africa to cater for<br />
the growing number of customers who<br />
travel between Nairobi and the “Mother<br />
City”. These routes not only cater to our<br />
passengers’ needs, they also grow tourism,<br />
trade and investment, a goal for <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
Last year, we unveiled a revamped<br />
catering service. This was designed as<br />
part of our strategy to elevate our<br />
passengers’ experience, by offering more<br />
value and a service that is authentic and<br />
true to our brand proposition: “The<br />
Pride of Africa”.<br />
Sustainability is one of Kenya<br />
Airways’ key values, so we like to feature<br />
achievements in this domain as often as<br />
possible. Now that plastic pollution has<br />
become recognised as a major problem<br />
worldwide, it was especially pleasing<br />
when Kenya banned single-use plastic<br />
bags last year. This step forward was<br />
helped by the desire and commitment<br />
of one man: James Wakibia. We detail<br />
his inspirational story in this month’s<br />
business interview.<br />
Also within the environment theme,<br />
this month’s trend story investigates<br />
innovative methods of agriculture – such<br />
as vertical farming, which requires no soil<br />
and less space than traditional practices<br />
– that are helping to combat the effects of<br />
climate change.<br />
For most of us, the image of a man<br />
dressed exquisitely in flamboyant haute<br />
couture while walking through a rural<br />
African community, would make us<br />
wonder if we were in a dream; but in<br />
Brazzaville, in the Republic of the<br />
Congo, such a sight is commonplace.<br />
Here, local people doing local jobs parade<br />
through the streets during their days off<br />
in immaculate attire, and they are revered<br />
like rock stars. We treat you to a full<br />
exposé of the Sapeurs as we delve into<br />
the history of a fascinating culture.<br />
Thank you most sincerely for flying<br />
with Kenya Airways.<br />
Sebastian Mikosz<br />
Group Managing Director and CEO<br />
Kenya Airways
CONTENTS / 7<br />
Travel & Nature<br />
10 The Lost World<br />
The Meroë Pyramids<br />
18 Travel Essentials<br />
Packing for Seychelles<br />
20 Off The Chain<br />
Spectacular Seychelles<br />
51 Guess And Win<br />
Travel quiz<br />
52 Magical Metropolis<br />
Barcelona guide<br />
30<br />
52<br />
Arts & Culture<br />
13 Habari<br />
Kenya & the world<br />
30 The Oracle Orators<br />
African TED speakers<br />
43 Biko On Board<br />
The inaugural flight to New York<br />
58 Fresh Debonair<br />
The Sapeurs of Brazzaville<br />
Publisher Kenya Airways | Manager Operational Excellence Evelyn Kabui Mwangi Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive<br />
Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Irene Bauer<br />
Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans<br />
Koedijker Contributors Joost Bastmeijer, Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Peter Chege, Shalini Gidoomal, Annemarie Hoeve, Saskia Houttuin, Desiree Hoving, Annette Lavrijsen, Joseph Maina,<br />
Dhaval Patel, Robert Michael Poole, Gijsje Ribbens, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Tariq Zaidi Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków
8 / CONTENTS<br />
Fly Guide<br />
65 Highlights<br />
Inflight entertainment guide<br />
75 Safari Njema<br />
News & service<br />
81 Flying Blue News<br />
83 SkyTeam News<br />
84 Route Maps<br />
89 Cargo<br />
90 Get Comfortable<br />
20<br />
Business<br />
46<br />
36 Aircraft Facts<br />
Parking<br />
38 Crop Up<br />
Vertical farming in Kenya<br />
44 Somalia<br />
At a glance<br />
46 Not My Bag<br />
Interview with James Wakibia<br />
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.<br />
com Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734<br />
271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Media Nederland CV, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website hearst.nl/hearst-create<br />
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />
responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and<br />
at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.<br />
CRE A T E
10 / NATURE / Views /<br />
NATURE / 11<br />
The Lost<br />
World<br />
Swept by the desert<br />
sands of Eastern<br />
Sudan, the MEROË<br />
PYRAMIDS are<br />
crumbling tombs of<br />
the powerful Nubian<br />
kings and queens who<br />
ruled this land for<br />
600 years.<br />
text Annemarie Hoeve<br />
WHILE THE ICONIC pyramids<br />
of Giza draw millions of tourists every<br />
year, few people know that Sudan has<br />
more than twice the number of pyramids<br />
as Egypt. Nearly 200 of these stand in<br />
Meroë, an ancient city on the eastern<br />
bank of the Nile, some 200 km northeast<br />
of Khartoum.<br />
They were built around 2,000 years<br />
ago, when Meroë was the capital of the<br />
mighty Kingdom of Kush, which was<br />
centred here between 300 BC and 300<br />
AD, and once dominated the region,<br />
extending into Upper Egypt.<br />
The tombs were looted long ago,<br />
yet ornate reliefs remain, offering a<br />
fascinating glimpse of this great<br />
civilisation. Archaeologists have also<br />
uncovered countless historical treasures,<br />
including horse harnesses, pottery and<br />
coloured glass, indicating early trade<br />
with the Mediterranean.<br />
But perhaps the best treasure of all<br />
is the solitude: you can have this magical<br />
place virtually to yourself.<br />
Kenya Airways flies direct to Khartoum<br />
International Airport from Nairobi’s Jomo<br />
Kenyatta International Airport.<br />
Robert Harding
160<br />
The Seychelles<br />
were once a pirate<br />
hideout. It's thought<br />
that treasure, worth<br />
US$160,000, is still<br />
buried near Anse<br />
Forbans bay on Mahé.<br />
Habari<br />
HABARI / 13<br />
According to the World Health<br />
Organization, Liberia has some<br />
of the world's cleanest cities.<br />
Communication art<br />
Black Royalty<br />
Adeyemi Adegbesan examines<br />
what it has meant to be black<br />
throughout history. Approaching<br />
art as a means of communication,<br />
the artist explores the themes<br />
of royalty and Afrofuturism, by<br />
creating royal portraits of black<br />
contemporary artists, such as<br />
Erykah Badu.<br />
@yung.yemi
14 / HABARI<br />
HABARI / 15<br />
The Royal Palace, on Dam<br />
Square, was Amsterdam’s<br />
grand city hall until Napoleon’s<br />
brother Louis declared himself<br />
King of Holland in 1806.<br />
Nairobi<br />
Monrovia, the capital of Liberia, is<br />
named after James Monroe, the<br />
fifth US President.<br />
Underneath one of New York’s<br />
most famous hotels, the Waldorf<br />
Astoria, is a “secret” train<br />
platform that’s an extension of<br />
Grand Central Station.<br />
What’s On<br />
Rising to a height of 828 m,<br />
Dubai’s Burj Khalifa is the world’s<br />
tallest building.<br />
Taste of India<br />
Open House<br />
Restaurant<br />
If only the two brothers who<br />
own Open House Restaurant<br />
would share their secret.<br />
Although this Indian restaurant<br />
has been here for over 13 years,<br />
it feels like forever. From chilli<br />
paneer to butter chicken and<br />
Malai kebab, the food here is<br />
all delectable. You can make a<br />
great meal for a week, a month<br />
or even a year, but to do it consistently<br />
for over a decade is<br />
rare culinary magic.<br />
Authenticity is at the core of<br />
the menu and experience. For<br />
a slice of India while staying in<br />
town, this is where you should<br />
hang your hat.<br />
~ openhouserestaurant.co.ke<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Animal art<br />
Kioko Art<br />
Gallery<br />
A renowned global sculptor,<br />
Kioko Mwitiki is known for<br />
turning scrap metal into art.<br />
Sculptures of animals are his<br />
forte, an ode to our national<br />
pride that brings wildlife closer<br />
to people. His creations are on<br />
display at Jomo Kenyatta<br />
International Airport as well<br />
as on the green lawns of the<br />
State House. Check out his<br />
small and cosy new gallery in<br />
Nairobi Lavington, along<br />
James Gichuru Road.<br />
~ @kiokoartgallery<br />
“The younger<br />
generation needs<br />
to know where<br />
they came from”<br />
– Jocktan Makeke –<br />
Award<br />
Sarova Stanley<br />
The five-star Sarova Stanley hotel recently won a World Luxury<br />
Hotel Award as Africa’s Top Luxury Historical Hotel 2018. The<br />
oldest hotel in Nairobi – established in 1902 – the Stanley has<br />
hosted world leaders, renowned authors and international celebrities.<br />
The Sarova hotel chain is the largest indigenous, privately<br />
owned hotel group in Kenya. Stay at any of its locations across<br />
the country to learn why this chain is a consistent winner.<br />
~ sarovahotels.com<br />
Nightlife<br />
Kiza Lounge<br />
Nairobi at night goes hard, never home. Want to plug into the<br />
electric nature of the city? The upscale club Kiza Lounge is just<br />
the place. Here, the party gets going just after 11 p.m. The music<br />
is legendary, with the best DJs in town on the decks pelting you<br />
with the latest hits. So, did you pack your dancing shoes?<br />
~ kizalounge.co.ke<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko<br />
Habari text: Joost Bastmeijer & Saskia Houttuinen<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Sports equipment<br />
Run like a Kenyan<br />
If Kenya has some of the world’s best<br />
runners, why is there no such thing as a<br />
Kenyan running shoe? That’s the question<br />
asked by the founders of Enda, who create<br />
running shoes that are made in Kenya.<br />
Enda incorporates the country’s history,<br />
culture and skills in its products. A pair of<br />
these kicks comes in black, red or green –<br />
the colours of Kenya’s flag – and can be<br />
yours for US$100.<br />
~ ke.endasportswear.com<br />
Car show<br />
Perfect for petrolheads<br />
Classic car owners, collectors, experts and enthusiasts, take note. The annual<br />
London Classic Car Show will take place from 14 to 17 February. Dealers,<br />
manufacturers, clubs and cars will be under one roof at ExCeL London.<br />
There’s an indoor road upon which the cars are paraded.<br />
~ thelondonclassiccarshow.co.uk<br />
Valentine’s Day<br />
Romantic Times<br />
Looking for a place to spend<br />
Valentine’s Day? There’s no<br />
better place to say “I love you”<br />
than New York’s Times Square.<br />
At one of the most special<br />
locations in the Big Apple, you<br />
can even surprise your spouseto-be<br />
with a proposal on a huge<br />
LED screen. On 14 February,<br />
Times Square will also be the<br />
stage for several wedding<br />
ceremonies and vow renewals.<br />
~ timessquarenyc.org<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Q&A<br />
Amateur<br />
Night<br />
“Amateur Night at the Apollo” has been a<br />
stepping stone for black artists like Ella<br />
Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, Jimi Hendrix,<br />
Stevie Wonder and D’Angelo. A performance<br />
on the New York stage can be the<br />
start of a great career, but you have to make<br />
it past C.P. Lacey, aka “The Executioner”.<br />
What is your role as The Executioner?<br />
It’s my job to rid the stage of all unwanted acts. Once<br />
the “crowd boo meter” reaches a certain height, the<br />
siren wails and that’s my cue to get them out of here,<br />
while singing and tap dancing.<br />
You’re famous for your outfits. What’s your favourite?<br />
Of all my many Executioner costumes, the James<br />
Brown outfit suits me best. You can’t think about the<br />
Apollo Theater and not think of the “Godfather of<br />
Soul”.<br />
Amateur Night has launched many careers, including<br />
James Brown’s. What do you need to survive it?<br />
You need three very important things: talent, talent<br />
and talent. That’s all the audience will allow on stage.<br />
Sorry, but nice clothes and a cute face won’t get you<br />
by on the Apollo stage.<br />
~ apollotheater.org/amateur-night<br />
Shahar Azhan
16 / HABARI<br />
HABARI / 17<br />
Most houses in Amsterdam’s<br />
canal belt were built on<br />
wooden poles in the 17th<br />
century, which explains why<br />
so many are now crooked.<br />
The Bight of Benin, in the Gulf of Guinea,<br />
was known as the Slave Coast due to its<br />
association with the Atlantic slave trade.<br />
Until 2015, Dubai had no<br />
addresses or postcodes. Now,<br />
every house has a unique<br />
10-digit code to help identify it.<br />
Music & Culture<br />
The world’s biggest cruise ships are<br />
registered in Liberia. This is due to its<br />
relaxed employment laws.<br />
Festival<br />
Zanzibar’s Cultural Landmark<br />
From 7 to 10 February, the Sauti za Busara Festival will celebrate<br />
African music on one of East Africa’s most beautiful and wellknown<br />
islands: Zanzibar. Over 400 musicians perform live on<br />
three stages in unique venues, such as Stone Town’s Old Fort.<br />
The lineup includes: Afrigo Band (Uganda); Mokoomba (Zimbabwe);<br />
Mkubwa Na Wanawe Crew (Tanzania); Hoba Hoba Spirit<br />
(Morocco); Dago Roots (Réunion); and Lydol (Cameroon).<br />
~ busaramusic.org<br />
Jackson Biko<br />
The Hand That<br />
Rocks The Cradle<br />
I ended 2018 with some rather deep introspection, because I<br />
decided that, in <strong>2019</strong>, I would not tolerate people who don’t<br />
punctuate their WhatsApp messages; especially those who write<br />
“am” when they mean “I’m”. That breed, specifically, gets my<br />
goat. This introspection happened by mistake.<br />
I was at a café nursing a masala tea as I waited for an interviewee<br />
whose Uber had mistakenly taken him to an abattoir on<br />
the other side of town. (Things happen for a reason.) I thought<br />
to myself, “What does my left hand do exactly?” Because with<br />
my right hand I eat, point at things, scratch my face, elbow<br />
away the armrest from the chap on seat 54C, and poke in my<br />
PIN code at the ATM. My right hand squeezes shower gel and<br />
lemons and tubes. I even use it when someone asks me to check<br />
their temperature, which, unfortunately, is not as often as I<br />
would like.<br />
“Uber had mistakenly<br />
taken him to an abattoir<br />
on the other side<br />
of town”<br />
So what on Earth does my left hand do apart from fixing<br />
my watch to my wrist? (The sun can also tell the time.) Because<br />
even when I dream, I never dream that I’m using my left hand;<br />
it’s always my right hand that frantically waves off the burly<br />
man in a straw hat, approaching me with a teaspoonful of<br />
cough syrup. (Don’t ask.) My left hand isn’t as coordinated as<br />
my right hand. Hot tea never burns it. Yet it expects the same<br />
treatment as my right. I think it’s unfair. So right there, sipping<br />
my masala (with my right hand, no less), I decided that my left<br />
hand had to earn its keep.<br />
So this year, apart from not tolerating poorly written<br />
WhatsApp messages, my New Year’s resolution is to use my left<br />
hand more, and see if it will adapt to being my go-to hand. (I<br />
realise that this might lead to some hypocrisy regarding my<br />
WhatsApp New Year’s resolution.) I’ll try to be ambidextrous. I<br />
can’t wait to start greeting folk with my left hand. Because most<br />
right-handed people think they own the world, they will always<br />
assume and extend their right hand in greeting. I will be, quite<br />
rightly, extending my left hand; then we’ll see who’s boss.<br />
You might not be able to tell, but I’m continuing to write<br />
this last part of the article after taking a week’s break. A lot has<br />
happened, key being that I’m starting to regret this New Year’s<br />
resolution. First, eating food with my left hand is proving to be<br />
tedious. Apart from it taking so long, I now eat like a baby:<br />
food keeps falling off my spoon. My WhatsApp messages are<br />
replete with typos, and sometimes typos lead you to abattoirs.<br />
It’s hard to open a bottle of wine with your left hand, especially<br />
if you’re trying to come across as debonair, cultured and sexy. I<br />
look like an oaf. But if you manage to get through that embarrassment,<br />
you’ll realise that pouring wine into a glass using<br />
your left hand looks exotic and suave. It feels French.<br />
But I shall stick to this New Year’s resolution and join the<br />
ranks of famous left-handed men and women like Oprah,<br />
Morgan Freeman and Lady Gaga; hell even Justin Bieber is<br />
left-handed. The thing with left-handed folk is that they aren’t<br />
in your face; they don’t extend their right hand in greeting<br />
assuming everybody is right-handed. I bet it’s the right-handed<br />
brigade that coined the phrase, “extend a helping hand”. It just<br />
seems like something a right-handed person would say.<br />
I will keep up with this for a little while longer. Let’s see<br />
where it leads.<br />
Illustration: Hannah Wieslander<br />
Film costumes<br />
Pre-Colonial<br />
Fashion<br />
“I’m inspired by the pure African life before and during colonialism,”<br />
says Jocktan Makeke, a Tanzanian costume artist who<br />
creates traditional outfits for use in films and music videos. “My<br />
designs are reimagining pre-colonial African culture and history,<br />
using the by-product from animals and plants, such as skins,<br />
bones, animal horns and bark,” says Makeke. “Other African<br />
fashion designers only work with African prints, like khanga<br />
kitenge and batiki. They’re not pure African traditional designs.<br />
To me, it’s very important that we pass on our own traditional<br />
customs to the younger generation. They need to know where<br />
they came from in order to preserve and maintain our culture.”<br />
Makeke says he wants to take his fashion designs to the next level<br />
this year. “I’m presenting my own fashion event, ‘I AM<br />
MAKEKE <strong>2019</strong>’. It’s my goal to promote African culture all<br />
over the world, through fashion.”<br />
xxxxxx<br />
Concert<br />
Jazz on The<br />
Rocks<br />
A combination of the South<br />
African summer sun, a glass<br />
of South African wine and<br />
some jazz tunes in a truly magnificent<br />
location, Jazz on The<br />
Rocks has it all. Jazz fanatics<br />
from all over South Africa<br />
flock to this five-day event,<br />
which starts on 28 February.<br />
The festival is held near<br />
Paternoster, right in the Cape<br />
Columbine Nature Reserve.<br />
~ jazzontherocks.net<br />
Alamy<br />
Playlist<br />
Feelgood Tunes<br />
Since Spotify found its way to<br />
South Africa earlier this year, there<br />
are now some catchy playlists<br />
online. Here’s a favourite.<br />
Feel good look good<br />
Start <strong>2019</strong> in a positive way by<br />
tuning into this up-tempo playlist,<br />
with artists like Yemi Alade and<br />
Kelly Khumago.<br />
~ spotify.com<br />
Peter Bennett<br />
Getty Images
18 / TRAVEL / Essentials<br />
Central Park in New York has been<br />
featured in more films than any<br />
other location in the world.<br />
Packing for Seychelles<br />
Ndola is the capital of the<br />
Copperbelt province in<br />
Zambia. It’s also one of the<br />
country’s biggest cities.<br />
Hardcover photo book of mesmerising<br />
moonlit landscapes by Darren Almond.<br />
US$70, Taschen.<br />
12.0 megapixel<br />
water-resistant<br />
digital camera,<br />
Olympus Tough<br />
TG-5, US$448.<br />
Olympus.<br />
Swimming<br />
shorts,<br />
US$95. Okun.<br />
Beoplay H8i wireless<br />
headphones cancel<br />
out any “annoying”<br />
wave noises,<br />
US$399. Bang &<br />
Olufsen.<br />
Clement Black Apricot<br />
sunglasses, US$60.<br />
Komono.<br />
Sybile shell<br />
choker necklace,<br />
US$198. Heimat<br />
Atlantica.<br />
Bikini: Bill Bra<br />
(US$110) and Bill<br />
Bottom (US$185), for<br />
that flattering 1950s<br />
shape. Norma Kamali.<br />
Aurélie Turtle<br />
Drop Earring: a<br />
gold-plated version<br />
of the Seychelles’<br />
symbol, US$95.<br />
Aurélie Bidermann<br />
Carry-All Tote:<br />
a paper straw<br />
tote bag with<br />
leather strap.<br />
Perfect for<br />
carrying books<br />
to beaches,<br />
US$113.<br />
Arket.<br />
Be the bestdressed<br />
snorkeller on<br />
the island in the<br />
Hightide Wetsuit,<br />
US$265. Cynthia<br />
Rowley.<br />
Selection: Gijsje Ribbens
20 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />
TRAVEL / 21<br />
OFF THE<br />
CHAIN<br />
Modern tourism, pristine beaches, rare<br />
animals and environmental protection all<br />
meet in the SEYCHELLES, some 1,500 km<br />
east of the mainland.<br />
text Robert Michael Poole<br />
Male Red Fody sits on a<br />
plant. Right page: Petite<br />
Anse bay, Mahé.<br />
Getty Images<br />
Robert Michael Poole
22 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />
TRAVEL / 23<br />
FLYING DUE east from Nairobi to the Seychelles islands,<br />
my imagination is filled with vibrant Technicolor images of<br />
exotic nature and landscapes, and luxurious resorts overlooking<br />
some of the world’s finest palm-fringed beaches. What surprises<br />
me, however, is that the most colourful spot of all stands in the<br />
heart of the capital, Victoria, as a monument to the diversity of<br />
history and culture that has passed through the islands of this<br />
very young and tiny country.<br />
Just off Revolution Avenue in the tiny capital city on the<br />
main island – Mahé – the Hindu temple Arul Mihu Navasakthi<br />
Vinayagar ascends from the ground in layers of decorative<br />
figurines depicting Hindu gods and deities in bright blue, yellow<br />
and pink. Named after the Hindu god of safety and prosperity,<br />
the temple is a reminder that these tiny isles lay on ocean trade<br />
routes between India, Africa and the Middle East. It turns out<br />
that the nation’s short history is as rich in culture as it is in<br />
flora and fauna.<br />
Even the names on the tourist map of the town have me<br />
enthralled: Sham Peng Tong Plaza, the Pierre Poivre Statue and<br />
the Victoria Clock Tower all speak of the country’s heritage.<br />
The Seychelles are named after Jean Moreau de Séchelles,<br />
former King of France Louis XV’s Minister of Finance during<br />
French rule, before the islands were passed to the British (but<br />
were settled by native Africans). My self-made walking tour of<br />
the tiny capital quickly gives me a sense of the pace and heartbeat<br />
of a nation – relaxed, proud and confident – that’s like a<br />
Caribbean island in different waters.<br />
The Victoria Clock Tower, which dates back to the colonial<br />
era and was built as a memorial to Queen Victoria, has been a<br />
focal point since its construction 115 years ago; the Seychelles<br />
has exactly one island for every one of those years. The 115<br />
islands, which form an archipelago, stretch from the fabled<br />
UNESCO-listed coral-rich Aldabra – discovered centuries ago<br />
by Arab traders – to private eco-islands such as Frégate Island<br />
Private, and the modern Instagram star island of La Digue,<br />
where I’m keen to see if the Anse Source d’Argent rock beach<br />
lives up to expectations.<br />
A TALE OF TWO BEACHES<br />
Before venturing off to islands afar, I decide to split my<br />
Mahé experience between north and south, from the secluded<br />
and sedate Vista Do Mar in the north, to the truly splendid<br />
Petite Anse bay farther south. And that means getting four<br />
wheels; a decision that turns out to be an unanticipated stroke<br />
of genius, since I quickly discover that Mahé is a joy for drivers.<br />
Full of winding mountainside roads enveloped in thick jungle,<br />
it’s a challenge to avoid stopping to admire all the panoramic<br />
views and filling umpteen memory cards with idyllic seascape<br />
images. ><br />
“I swap four wheels for two, and quickly find myself<br />
saying ‘hello’ to fellow cyclists while riding<br />
around town”<br />
Where to stay<br />
Four Seasons Resort Seychelles and<br />
Desroches Island<br />
A jewel in the Four Seasons crown, FS<br />
Seychelles has a new sister on the nearby<br />
Desroches Island too. Petite Anse, Mahé.<br />
fourseasons.com<br />
Frégate Island Private<br />
Frégate offers a private island that has<br />
pioneered sustainability and the ecolodge<br />
concept. Frégate Island Private. fregate.com<br />
Le Domaine de L’Orangeraie<br />
The only high-end option on La Digue is ideal<br />
for honeymooners, and has a pool bar well<br />
worth a visit, even if you can’t get a room.<br />
Anse Sévère, La Digue. orangeraie.sc<br />
Le Repaire Boutique<br />
Pearched on the beachfront, this hotel is<br />
close to the centre of town. The staff can<br />
help arrange excursions. Anse La Réunion,<br />
La Digue. lerepaireseychelles.com<br />
Above: Common<br />
White Terns (top);<br />
Kids riding their bikes<br />
to school, La Digue<br />
(bottom left); Creole<br />
House, La Digue<br />
(bottom right). Right:<br />
Anse Soleil tropical<br />
beach, Mahé (top);<br />
Denis Private Island<br />
(bottom left); Tropical<br />
fruit (bottom right).<br />
Robert Harding, Alamy
24 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />
TRAVEL / 25<br />
Catamaran in front<br />
of granite rocks,<br />
Curieuse island.<br />
“The cherry on top,<br />
though, is the series of<br />
seven beaches”<br />
Robert Harding
26 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />
TRAVEL / 27<br />
Left page: St. Paul’s Church<br />
in Albert Street, Victoria,<br />
Mahé (top); Honeymoon<br />
paradise (bottom left);<br />
Hindu Azul Mihu Navasakthi<br />
Vinayagar Temple on Quincy<br />
Street, Victoria, Mahé<br />
(bottom right)<br />
Right: Local men<br />
(left); The Victoria<br />
Clock Tower in<br />
Victoria, Mahé (right)<br />
Robert Harding, Robert Michael Poole<br />
Many resorts are entirely self-contained in the Seychelles,<br />
but on Mahé, the Beau Vallon bay offers a stretch of beach<br />
shared by multiple hotels and restaurants. It marks the start<br />
and end point of the North Coast Road, which loops right<br />
around the northern tip of Mahé, always clinging tightly to<br />
the water’s edge. In one secluded spot, I settle down for two<br />
nights at Bliss Hotel, a rustic boutique property that recalls<br />
Mexico’s seaside town of Tulum. Stylish beach beds made of<br />
driftwood face Praslin island, and when the tide is out, the<br />
elegant façade of the hotel can be seen from under the palm<br />
trees, and farther away on the golden sand beach.<br />
Facing westwards on the south side, the Four Seasons<br />
Seychelles offers views over the beach below too, but with a<br />
very different vibe. Even as an experienced traveller, I find myself<br />
in awe of the natural surroundings here; the villas – all with<br />
private pools – cascade down a mountain side, half-encircling<br />
the crescent-shaped bay like a Greek theatre. The sunsets here<br />
are among the most beautiful I’ve ever witnessed, and I make a<br />
point of rising early to climb above the entire sprawling complex,<br />
where a rocky outcrop makes for an ideal yoga spot.<br />
IN THE LAND OF GIANTS<br />
Getting between the islands, I have a few options to consider,<br />
but none gives a better view than helicopter, and ZilAir offers<br />
rides to dozens of destinations from right next to Seychelles<br />
International Airport. I head to Frégate Island Private, playing<br />
a game of spot the swimming turtle, while flying over the calm<br />
waters to the small island now famous for three outstanding<br />
qualities.<br />
The first discovery here is the beautifully wild nature. And<br />
that’s taken a vast effort to achieve: years of intensive agriculture<br />
had removed all woodlands and animal species, but since<br />
2014, Frégate Island Private has become a world-leading icon<br />
of ecology, with 10,000 indigenous trees replanted – including<br />
the return of rarities like Wright’s Gardenia and the Indian<br />
mulberry – and the recovery of the near-extinct Seychelles<br />
Magpie Robin. Rare and endangered day-nesting turtles<br />
frequent the beaches, and most fun of all, 2,200 giant tortoise<br />
call the island their home. During one morning here, I’m<br />
offered breakfast high in the forest canopy amid the homes<br />
of 13 species, all vying for my croissants; some are more<br />
brave than others to steal my morning meal.<br />
Skirting the coast of the island are private pool villas,<br />
immaculate home-away-from-home residences designed<br />
for families or couples. Immense in scale, they’re the height<br />
of private-island holidaying. I can’t think of what to ask<br />
my butler for, since all the luxury of nature and hospitality<br />
is already at my fingertips. It’s a question of whether to<br />
enjoy the surroundings on a daybed, in a pavilion, ><br />
“The Victoria Clock Tower…<br />
has been a focal point since its construction<br />
115 years ago”<br />
What not to miss!<br />
There are a lot of inspiring adventures<br />
to take advantage of in the Seychelles.<br />
Here are a few fun suggestions.<br />
Marianne Rock<br />
One of the best diving sites in the Seychelles, expect<br />
underwater dramatic rock formations and keep an eye<br />
out for grey reef sharks, whale sharks, giant moray eels,<br />
turtles and more.<br />
On Yer Bike<br />
The best way to get around La Digue; cycle through<br />
canopied tunnels and over the hills to reach quiet beach<br />
coves, and enjoy cruising back down on your return to<br />
town.<br />
Do Go Chasing Waterfalls<br />
A short walk and easy find from Port Launay Road – on<br />
Mahé’s west coast – Sauzier Waterfall offers a cool and<br />
refreshing spot you can even jump into.<br />
Hike The Eagle’s Nest<br />
The peak of La Digue is a mere 333 m, but with other<br />
islands in close sight and a small restaurant on top, it’s<br />
the most idyllic sunset-viewing spot around.<br />
Creole Festival<br />
Held each October over 7-10 days, this island-wide<br />
festival includes musical shows, art fairs, dance and<br />
theatre. Make sure to catch the parade in Victoria, which<br />
includes contingents from Creole-speaking neighbours:<br />
Madagascar, Rodrigues, Réunion and Mauritius.
28 / TRAVEL / Seychelles<br />
TRAVEL / 29<br />
Left: Bleached coral reef<br />
(top); People walking<br />
along Market Street in<br />
Victoria, Mahé (bottom<br />
left); Tropical fruit at the<br />
market, Mahé (bottom<br />
right).<br />
“The beaches here truly<br />
trump anything I’ve ever<br />
encountered”<br />
or in my Jacuzzi.<br />
The cherry on top, though, is the series of seven beaches,<br />
one of which, Anse Victorin, has been named the world’s best.<br />
Its combination of soft white sand, coconut palms and granite<br />
stones are all to be admired, but for me, the real beauty is how<br />
easy it is to have everything to yourself.<br />
“Even as an experienced traveller,<br />
I found myself in awe of the natural<br />
surroundings here”<br />
Where to eat<br />
La Grande Maison<br />
The home kitchen of chef Christelle<br />
Verheyden serves delights like Creole<br />
bouillabaisse, tapas for lunch and has<br />
a tropical garden and live music too.<br />
La Plaine St. André, East Coast Road,<br />
Au Cap. @lgmsey<br />
Chez Jules Cafe<br />
Hidden on the east coast of La Digue with<br />
sea views, expect grilled fish fillet, octopus<br />
salad and more fine fare. Anse Banane, La<br />
Digue. @ChezJulescafe<br />
La Plaine St. Andre<br />
Located in a former Plantation House founded<br />
in 1792 along with a rum distillery, this<br />
restaurant offers traditional food and some<br />
modern Creole cuisine too. La Plaine, East<br />
Coast Road, Anse Royale. takamakarum.com<br />
Marie Antoinette<br />
Dine in this century-old house from a menu<br />
unchanged in 46 years, including bat curry.<br />
Serret Road, Mahé. marieantoinette.sc<br />
RUSTIC CHARM<br />
I leave La Digue – named after a French ship – until last,<br />
dropping in by helicopter to the island’s west coast, where the<br />
only town is located. Consisting of a few rustic and romantic<br />
lanes leading to guesthouses, cafés and small stores, it’s clear<br />
that La Digue offers another alternative to the islands I’ve<br />
already explored: a chilled and easy-going location where the<br />
younger travellers can mingle.<br />
Here, I swap four wheels for two, and I quickly find myself<br />
saying “hello” to fellow cyclists while riding around town.<br />
Better still, it’s here where I have the chance to try the local<br />
Creole cuisine, including rougay, a dish of salted fish in tomato<br />
and onion sauce, fried up with garlic, chilli and ginger and<br />
served on rice. The smoother coconut curry, however, quickly<br />
becomes my daily favourite.<br />
Cycling south, most visitors head for Anse Source d’Argent,<br />
where massive granite rocks tumble into the ocean in a scene<br />
that’s reminiscent of a lost world. The reality is, though, that<br />
you’ll need to come early to find tranquillity here. You’ll also<br />
need to pick the right season since the waters are sometimes<br />
thickly carpeted in seaweed. I advise pedalling the hilly roads<br />
south, getting in some exercise en-route to the three giant<br />
coves that face southeast: Pointe Grand Anse, Pointe Petite<br />
Anse, and Pointe Anse Cocos.<br />
The beaches here truly trump anything I’ve ever encountered.<br />
Fringed with rocks that are deceivingly shiny and metallic,<br />
the beaches’ soft sands have a pink hue when the clear waters<br />
wash over them, and the sea itself is like a pristine warm bath:<br />
the waves creating a natural Jacuzzi effect. It’s fitting, then,<br />
that my last stop is the place I’d be most keen to return to<br />
next time, ready to explore so many more of the islands the<br />
Seychelles has to offer.<br />
➔<br />
Plan your trip<br />
Book your flight to the Seychelles<br />
on kenya-airways.com<br />
Robert Harding, Alamy, Robert Michael Poole<br />
Lagoon surrounded<br />
by typical granite<br />
rocks on La Digue.
30 / PEOPLE / TED speakers<br />
PEOPLE / 31<br />
The Oracle<br />
Orators<br />
“Every woman has the<br />
right to make choices for<br />
herself”<br />
As Africa hosts pioneering global TED<br />
conversations and independent events, some<br />
remarkable TED TALKS from African speakers<br />
are inspiring millions of people.<br />
text Shalini Gidoomal<br />
Mercy<br />
Akuot<br />
Born<br />
Bor, South Sudan<br />
Age<br />
25<br />
Current Location<br />
Kakuma Refugee Camp, Kenya<br />
Best known for<br />
Support work with women who have<br />
experienced perilous personal situations<br />
Milestone<br />
Escaping from a forced marriage in South<br />
Sudan<br />
Follow<br />
@AkuotMercy<br />
TED Talk<br />
How I escaped child marriage to<br />
become a women’s rights activist.<br />
(TEDxKakumaCamp 2018)<br />
BY HER EARLY teens, Mercy Akuot had been<br />
displaced twice. First by the outbreak of civil war in<br />
South Sudan – that forced her family to flee to Uganda<br />
– and then later by a marriage arranged by her parents,<br />
which left her with a man of 56 when she was just 15.<br />
Escaping that union forced her first into foster care,<br />
and then to Kenya to the relative safety of Kakuma<br />
Refugee Camp.<br />
Arriving at the parched dry lands of northern<br />
Kenya in 2015 was tremendously hard. She had no<br />
money and knew nobody. Living alone, she barely had<br />
sufficient food from rations to survive as she began her<br />
life yet again. But Akuot has a fierce resilience and an<br />
eloquent way of presenting herself; characteristics that<br />
quickly earned her a job as a team supervisor with the<br />
Danish Refugee Council, monitoring and mentoring<br />
women who have undergone similar experiences. She<br />
earns the maximum amount allowable to a refugee<br />
– US$100 each month – while she teaches life skills<br />
and helps women deal with trauma.<br />
In the three years she’s been at the camp, Akuot<br />
has created a remarkable life from nothing. She met,<br />
and is now living with, a fellow South Sudanese with<br />
whom she has a child. They’re both following their<br />
love for music: she’s a singer and he’s a producer.<br />
This passionate and pragmatic combination singled<br />
her out as a perfect choice for the June 2018 TEDx<br />
event, which was the first to be held in a refugee camp.<br />
It also serves Akuot’s wider ambitions. She wants to<br />
study PR or journalism to take her cause to an international<br />
level. Like most refugees, she also dreams of<br />
resettlement.<br />
UNHCR/Tobin Jones
32 / PEOPLE / TED speakers<br />
PEOPLE / 33<br />
Dr Dixon<br />
Chibanda<br />
Sisonke<br />
Msimang<br />
Born<br />
Harare, Zimbabwe<br />
Born<br />
Manzini, Swaziland<br />
Age<br />
50<br />
Age<br />
44<br />
Current Location<br />
Harare, Zimbabwe<br />
Current Location<br />
Perth, Australia<br />
Best known for<br />
Pivotal role in bringing mental health treatment to<br />
the masses<br />
Milestone<br />
Bringing the Friendship Bench to rural areas of<br />
Zimbabwe… and now New York<br />
Follow<br />
@friendshipbench<br />
TED Talk<br />
Why I train grandmothers to treat depression.<br />
(TEDWomen 2017)<br />
Image: TED/Stacie Mcchesney Quote: Zimbabwe Situation June 2018<br />
Best known for<br />
Writing and incisive storytelling<br />
Milestone<br />
Becoming Executive Director at Open Society<br />
Initiative for Southern Africa<br />
Follow<br />
@Sisonkemsimang<br />
TED Talk<br />
If a story moves you, act on it. (TEDWomen 2016)<br />
Nick White<br />
“Imagine all the wisdom and wealth of experience<br />
someone has by the age of 80”<br />
“You can’t force justice. It’s the result of working with people,<br />
listening and creating opportunities for change”<br />
MORE THAN 300 million people worldwide suffer from<br />
depression, which, according to the World Health Organization,<br />
mostly occurs in low- and middle-income countries, where suitable<br />
treatment is scarce. In Zimbabwe, for example, there are only 12<br />
psychiatrists for a population of 16 million people.<br />
In 2005, Dr Chibanda was rocked by the death of a patient in<br />
her mid-20s who couldn’t afford the bus fare to come to see him<br />
for necessary treatment. In an attempt to find a solution to this<br />
problem of depression, or kufungisisa (thinking too much), Dr<br />
Chibanda began working with “grandmothers”, who, for decades,<br />
have had a traditional role as community health workers in clinics<br />
nationwide.<br />
Using locally developed techniques – kuvhura pfungwa<br />
(opening the mind); kusimudzira (uplifting); and kusimbisa<br />
(strengthening) – supported by digital technology, he was able to<br />
create an Evidence-Based-Therapy process that allows the grandmothers<br />
to successfully treat depression and anxiety. And not even<br />
in a clinical space, as treatment takes place on wooden benches,<br />
where the grandmothers administer their unique therapy.<br />
Today, in Harare alone, more than 40,000 people have<br />
received treatment from hundreds of grandmothers on the socalled<br />
Friendship Benches. Advice is also practical: helping with<br />
income-generation and creating structures that people can use in<br />
order to progress. The results are phenomenal: research shows<br />
that six months after receiving treatment from a grandmother,<br />
people were still symptom-free.<br />
Dr Chibanda has gone on to establish Friendship Benches in<br />
Zanzibar, Malawi, the Caribbean and even New York. Constantly<br />
driven, he practices tai chi, and pursues and refines his work<br />
helping people to receive effective mental health treatment.<br />
“WE LIVE IN a time where we’re witnessing the decline of<br />
facts,” says Msimang during her TEDWomen 2016 Talk. “A<br />
recent report by the Pew Center on trends in America indicates<br />
that only 10 percent of young adults under the age of 30 ‘place a lot<br />
of trust in the media’.” Conversely, they do have more respect for<br />
storytelling, which sets a dangerous precedent.<br />
According to Msimang, facts are needed, together with stories,<br />
to move the needle towards social justice. Even stories written<br />
with the best intentions can have negative consequences by glossing<br />
over real issues when they don’t include all of the facts of a given<br />
situation. Msimang has a lot of experience dealing with people’s<br />
everyday stories, which are often different to those that enter the<br />
mainstream. In her recently released memoir, Always Another<br />
Country, she speaks of “bearing witness to stories” while leading<br />
the oral storytelling programme at the Centre for Stories in Perth,<br />
Australia, where she helps refugees and diverse people to find<br />
their voices.<br />
Forged by a peripatetic lifestyle that wheeled her through<br />
Zambia, Kenya, Ethiopia and Canada as the child of South African<br />
freedom fighters in exile, Msimang’s outlook was heavily shaped<br />
by her parents. “They had the capacity to respect the dignity of<br />
each person, which is central to how I think about my work,” says<br />
Msimang. On returning to South Africa in 1990, she entered the<br />
world of activism, before moving towards journalism as disillusionment<br />
with the Rainbow Nation dream set in. “The most<br />
poignant story can get in the way of social justice,” she says in<br />
the Kirkus Reviews (November 2018). “You feel like you have...<br />
befriended that death row inmate. But you didn’t. So stories<br />
become useful only if they allow you to think about the world,<br />
become more critical and act in better ways.”
34 / PEOPLE / TED speakers<br />
PEOPLE / 35<br />
Dr Kamau<br />
Gachigi<br />
Dayo<br />
Ogunyemi<br />
Born<br />
Nairobi, Kenya<br />
Born<br />
Ibadan, Nigeria<br />
Age<br />
52<br />
Age<br />
45<br />
Current Location<br />
Nairobi, Kenya<br />
Best known for<br />
Gearbox/makerspaces<br />
Milestone<br />
Setting up the first Fab Lab at Nairobi University<br />
Follow<br />
gearbox.co.ke<br />
TED Talk<br />
Success stories from Kenya’s first makerspace.<br />
(TEDGlobal 2017)<br />
Image: Africa Knows Quote credit: Success stories from Kenya’s first makerspace (TEDGlobal 2017)<br />
Current Location<br />
New York, US<br />
Best known for<br />
Connections to innovation via various different<br />
disciplines<br />
Milestone<br />
Setting up a virtual community linking diasporic<br />
Nigerians in the early 1990s<br />
Follow<br />
@AfricaMET<br />
TED Talk<br />
Visions of Africa’s future, from African filmmakers.<br />
(TEDGlobal 2017)<br />
TED<br />
“The world’s going through the Fourth Industrial Revolution...<br />
a merger of the physical, cyber and biological worlds”<br />
“Tech and media were very different things, but<br />
have come together in life-changing ways”<br />
SEVERAL YEARS ago, Facebook’s CEO Mark Zuckerberg<br />
visited Nairobi. There’s a picture of him viewing a roof tile next to<br />
the smiling Dr Gachigi. This is no ordinary tile; aside from keeping<br />
house structures watertight, it also captures solar energy and diminishes<br />
electricity costs. And Dr Gachigi insists they beat the<br />
better-known Tesla to the market with their product.<br />
It’s the sort of radical innovation so often found among the<br />
digital fabrication machines set out at Gearbox, an experimental<br />
arena for hardware entrepreneurs to prototype, trial and refine<br />
their inventions. It’s a factory for factories that enables engineers<br />
and creatives to develop their products and bring them to market.<br />
Out of here have come plasma cutters, biogas producers,<br />
speed governors, clean cooking fuel, data integration systems,<br />
medical technology innovation and a host of other fascinating,<br />
locally grown applications. Gearbox was created and is run by Dr<br />
Gachigi, an engineer who cites his parents as prime influences in<br />
the direction he has taken.<br />
“My dad extracted silver from X-rays, and did brass casting<br />
when I was young, which is where I think my interest in material<br />
science arose,” says Dr Gachigi. “Both parents were also<br />
community minded; my mother worked with immigrants and<br />
refugees, and dad consistently impressed on me the importance<br />
of giving back.”<br />
His current project focuses on those in the Jua Kali (“hot<br />
sun”) sector who operate outdoors or in makeshift kiosks, doing<br />
handwork, frequently with rough tools. They represent 80<br />
percent of Kenya’s workforce. Collaborating with KCB Bank<br />
Kenya Ltd. and Africa Innovation Ecosystems Group, Gearbox<br />
will provide training, initially to Jua Kali metal workers, showing<br />
them how to use digital fabrication to improve their work.<br />
“I THINK a lot about digital colonialism. There’s much information<br />
out there... Who decides what we can read or find?” says<br />
Ogunyemi as he describes being defeated by Google algorithms in<br />
an online search for a specific clip about a Kampala taxi driver.<br />
Digital colonialism is a theory that the mass media is becoming a<br />
new empire itself by controlling the minds of the many. It’s part of<br />
the issue Ogunyemi takes with not just the vision of Africa in the<br />
eyes of the rest of the world (think famine and war), but also the<br />
myopia with which the continent sees itself.<br />
Largely educated in law and business in New York,<br />
Ogunyemi moved back to work in Africa after 9/11. Despite his<br />
training, he gravitated towards media, and his firm, 234 Media,<br />
recently authored a report analysing key trends in African film. It’s<br />
here that he’s anchored his belief in how media can be a key part of<br />
a progressive continent-wide shift. “The US has 1 screen for every<br />
8,000 citizens, India has 1 for every 100,000 and Sub-Saharan Africa<br />
has 1 for every 6 million. It means the West can access African<br />
films better than we can,” he says during his 2012 TED Talent<br />
Search Talk in Kenya.<br />
“When we are able to solve issues about how to distribute our<br />
films, we can begin to see how it helps us chart our own destinies,”<br />
says Ogunyemi. “So far, we’ve had some 50 years of US indoctrination.<br />
Given that images play a big part in perception, we need<br />
more Africans to access their own filmography and music to forge<br />
common identities.”<br />
Given that film contributes some US$1 billion in GDP annually<br />
in South Africa and Nigeria, its influence cannot be overstated.<br />
Add to that the access to people that mobile technology<br />
provides (millions continent-wide), and the potential for change<br />
is enormous.
36 / TRAVEL / Facts<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International<br />
Airport achieved Category One<br />
status, the top security rating,<br />
in 2018.<br />
Parking<br />
Kenya Airways’ 787 Dreamliner<br />
automatically adjusts its wing control<br />
surfaces for a smoother ride during<br />
turbulence.<br />
At the parking bay/apron<br />
engineers add service<br />
oil and do the required<br />
technical checks.<br />
The chocks prevent<br />
the aircraft from moving<br />
while it’s parked.<br />
The parking surface is<br />
made from asphalt or<br />
concrete, which can<br />
withstand any temperature.<br />
The area outside the terminal building where aircraft<br />
stop is called the “ramp” or “apron”. “Aircraft are<br />
parked, (un)loaded, serviced for the next flight,<br />
refuelled and checked for routine maintenance at<br />
the ramp,” says Kenya Airways Captain Dhaval Patel.<br />
The crew calls this area the “parking bay”, while<br />
passengers know it as the “gate”.<br />
“Each airport has a specific procedure for directing<br />
an aircraft towards its assigned gate,” says Patel.<br />
“The ground controller, in coordination with air traffic<br />
control, usually assigns the aircraft an address,<br />
consisting of a ‘street’ or ‘highway’ (taxi lane) and<br />
‘house number’ (gate) the pilots should take. In<br />
addition to the ground signals, signs and air traffic<br />
control instructions, we use an airport layout map,<br />
either in paper or electronic format, to locate the<br />
parking bay.”<br />
Once the aircraft has come to a halt, the ground<br />
crew secures the “chocks” around the wheels,<br />
which prevent accidental movement once the pilots<br />
release the aircraft’s parking brake.<br />
If the aircraft is parked facing the terminal building,<br />
or if it’s in an area where engines cannot be started<br />
(because of the hazards associated with the<br />
exhaust gases), the aircraft is pushed back by a<br />
tow-tug. If it’s parked nose out, away from obstacles<br />
or the terminal building, the aircraft will “taxi” (drive)<br />
to the runway.<br />
text: Annette Lavrijsen image: Getty Images
38 / TREND / Vertical farming<br />
TREND / 39<br />
Crop Up<br />
“The hydroponic system<br />
supports the growing of<br />
all leafy vegetables”<br />
To address food shortages, experts say that<br />
agriculture needs to move onwards and upwards.<br />
New methods that require less space and no soil,<br />
such as VERTICAL FARMING, are gathering<br />
momentum in Africa.<br />
text Annette Lavrijssen<br />
In November 2017, biochemistry graduate Samson<br />
Ogbole (35) dazzled the audience when he took to the TEDx<br />
stage in Lagos, Nigeria. He demonstrated cutting-edge farming<br />
methods that could ensure the future of food worldwide.<br />
“To me, agriculture is more than just food production; it’s<br />
the foundation for sustainable development, job creation and<br />
healthier living,” he says. “I believe farmers must be smart about<br />
the climate, adopt a business mindset and embrace technology,<br />
automation and data.”<br />
HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM<br />
According to a 2017 report by the Food and Agriculture<br />
Organization of the UN, farming has become increasingly<br />
difficult due to climate change, unpredictable weather, desertification,<br />
changing precipitation patterns and high crop instability.<br />
Although this is a global problem, the need for farmers<br />
in Africa to employ new farming methods is more immediate;<br />
natural resources and soil are being exhausted because farmers<br />
have insufficient time and space for an adequate fallow period.<br />
Furthermore, overcutting and overgrazing have become the<br />
norm, resulting in fertiliser misuse and improper crop rotation.<br />
The issue is compounded by the growing global population,<br />
which is expected to reach 9.73 billion by 2050. More<br />
than half of this boom will happen in Africa, where Nigeria<br />
will see the biggest increase (to about 450 million). Given that<br />
the average age of the Nigerian farmer is 60, and young people<br />
are unwilling to pick up agriculture because conventional<br />
farming has become more difficult, the need for new farming<br />
methods is even more apparent. ><br />
The perks of soilless<br />
farming<br />
• It’s a one-time set-up with a fast<br />
return on investment.<br />
• Maintenance is cheap compared<br />
to soil-based farming.<br />
• It’s more sustainable, as the use<br />
of tractors, fertilisers, herbicides<br />
and insecticides are drastically<br />
diminished or eliminated.<br />
• Production costs are stable<br />
throughout the seasons.<br />
• Vertical farming methods need<br />
less space to grow more crops.<br />
• Growth time is reduced and the<br />
plants produce a higher yield.<br />
• Studies show that plants<br />
grown without soil have higher<br />
levels of phytochemicals and<br />
antioxidants, compared to crops<br />
grown in soil.<br />
Getty Images
40 / TREND / Vertical farming<br />
TREND / 41<br />
CLIMATE-SMART FARMING<br />
Ogbole has devoted his time and resources to building modern<br />
farms that explore the latest technologies for agriculture, which<br />
may address some of the greatest problems the world is facing<br />
today. He’s producing more crops in less space, while minimising<br />
environmental damage. Innovative technologies, such as aeroponics,<br />
hydroponics and aquaponics enable farmers to grow<br />
crops in vertical stacks without soil. This sounds high-tech, yet<br />
the basics are simple. “The function of soil is to act as support,<br />
retain water and allow for aeration,” says Ogbole. “If we can use<br />
alternative materials in this function, we can grow crops without<br />
soil. Try it at home: if you keep some vegetables inside a few<br />
bowls of water and leave them for three to seven days, the roots<br />
will come out. Add fertiliser to the water and you will be carrying<br />
out hydroponics.”<br />
HOW IT’S DONE<br />
Hydroponic farmers grow vegetables in stagnant water<br />
(needing aeration via air stones) or flowing water. A liquid nutrient<br />
solution is added as a growing medium, while essential<br />
minerals sustain plant growth. Aquaponics pioneers are taking<br />
it a step further by combining the cultivation of plants and fish<br />
into one ecosystem, which is comparable to a fish tank with a<br />
garden on top. The waste – urea or ammonia – produced by the<br />
fish is the foundational nutrient for leafy vegetables, so it’s used to<br />
feed them. The circular system allows for the growth of vegetables<br />
without regular water replacement, as the plants recycle the water<br />
by cleaning it.<br />
Aeroponics is sometimes considered to be a type of hydroponics<br />
because water is used to transmit nutrients, but the system<br />
is different because it grows plants in the air without the use of<br />
“Hydroponics and aquaponics<br />
enable farmers to grow crops in<br />
vertical stacks without soil”<br />
soil or an aggregate medium. The roots hang suspended in the<br />
air, while the nutrient solution is sprayed onto them in the form<br />
of a fine mist.<br />
Choosing the best soil-free system depends on the type of<br />
crops and space available. For tuber crops, such as potatoes and<br />
yams, aeroponics gives the best results because it provides easy<br />
access to the root (tuber) region. The YIIFSWA-II project, led<br />
by the Beninese agricultural engineer Dr Norbert Maroya, pairs<br />
scientists from the International Institute for Tropical Agriculture<br />
with farmers. They are collaborating in order to establish a seed<br />
system that ensures that high-quality seed tubers – of various yam<br />
varieties – are readily available to smallholder farmers. “Seed<br />
tubers are the most crucial elements in the livelihood of yamgrowing<br />
communities, such as Nigeria and Ghana, and food<br />
supply is heavily dependent on the seed security,” says Maroya.<br />
“Although farmers save about 30 percent of their yield with seed<br />
tubers, the majority is ridden with pests and diseases that have<br />
Getty Images<br />
accumulated in the tubers and soils.” Maroya and his team are<br />
using aeroponics to facilitate a rapid and safe multiplication<br />
of yam seed tubers. Their objective is to achieve a 30 percent<br />
increase in the productivity of yam cultivation for at least<br />
320,000 farmers in Ghana and Nigeria.<br />
MORE CROPS, LESS IMPACT<br />
“The hydroponic system supports the growing of all leafy<br />
vegetables, herbs, fruits and starchy foods,” says Peter Chege,<br />
entrepreneur and founder of Hydroponics Africa. Hydroponics<br />
and aquaponics are often considered a cost-intensive enterprise,<br />
but Chege is convinced that it doesn’t need to be. Over the<br />
years, the Kenyan entrepreneur has learned that many farmers<br />
incur high costs for animal feed even though the quality is often<br />
unsatisfactory. To address this problem, he and his team started<br />
developing hydroponic systems that enable farmers to grow<br />
animal feed at low cost, while also providing them with the<br />
means to grow vegetables.<br />
Evidently proud, Chege says, “Since 2015, we have been<br />
rolling out our simplified hydroponic systems, which are not<br />
only practical, but cost-effective too. We’ve developed an optimal<br />
nutrient solution specific to various crops, which directly irrigates<br />
the crop’s root through the watering system. This minimises wastage<br />
of both nutrients and water (excess water is being recycled).<br />
For the substrates, we use recycled materials, such as pumice,<br />
wood chips, mattress tissues and even plastic cups. The water<br />
system is fully automated and powered by integrated solar panels,<br />
and there is zero use of herbicides. As there is no competition<br />
for nutrients, the crops are highly nutritious compared to crops<br />
grown under conventional methods, and they mature 30 percent<br />
faster, resulting in more harvests per year.”<br />
EMERGING POTENTIAL<br />
The impact these new farming methods have on production<br />
is significant. “If you want to grow tomatoes in the soil, it will<br />
take you three months; with a hydroponic system it takes you,<br />
at most, a month. Growing wheatgrass in the soil takes three to<br />
four months, with this system it takes only seven days; without<br />
any pesticides, very little fertiliser and no soil,” says Ogbole in<br />
his TEDx Talk.<br />
Will these vertical, soil-free farms unleash a “green revolution”<br />
in Africa, as proponents love to call it? With just three major<br />
suppliers, hydroponics is still an emerging industry, but according<br />
to Chege, business is booming. So far Hypdroponics Africa has<br />
installed more than 5,000 hydroponic systems in Kenya, Uganda,<br />
Rwanda and Somalia, and the company has extended its presence<br />
in Burkina Faso and Nepal. Based on the current high demand,<br />
they expect an exponential growth of 70 percent in the next few<br />
years.<br />
Soil-free farming systems are inseparable from the global<br />
movement that seeks to make agriculture climate-smart and<br />
future-proof. Most governments now recognise the need to<br />
develop interventions, and some have already taken action.<br />
As one of the first in Sub-Saharan Africa, Kenya launched<br />
the Climate Smart Agriculture Strategy 2017–2026, in which<br />
the government declares its objective to make agriculture more<br />
sustainable and resilient through collaborations and education.<br />
“The major challenge is knowledge,” says Ogbole. “By<br />
training people and making them aware of the potential of<br />
vertical and soil-free farming, agriculture becomes a tool to<br />
build the nation we so much desire. I’m not saying we should<br />
eliminate soil, but I do believe we should complement soil.<br />
Vertical, soilless farming is one of the ways to ensure the<br />
future of food.”<br />
30<br />
Urban aeroponics gardens can grow in half<br />
the time it takes for them to grow in soil,<br />
with a yield of 30% more.<br />
90<br />
Aeroponic farming requires around 90%<br />
less water than soil-grown crops.<br />
6,400<br />
The biggest aeroponics farm in the world<br />
is being built in Newark, US, with 6,400 sq<br />
m of cultivated spaces without soil.<br />
8,000<br />
By using aeroponics, a farmer can produce<br />
up to 8,000 lettuce plants in a 3 m x 1 m<br />
space each year.<br />
50,000<br />
A yam tuber that is multiplied using<br />
aeroponics can get more than 50,000<br />
tubers annually.<br />
Peter Chege<br />
Sources: Environmental Assessment Agency PBL, International Institute for Tropical Agriculture (IITA), YIIFSWA-II project, IITA University of Chile 2015.
Inaugural flight / INTERVIEW / 43<br />
Biko On Board<br />
New Kid on<br />
The Block<br />
On board the inaugural flight to New York,<br />
Jackson Biko talks to Blessing Samii, who’s<br />
travelling with her son, the youngest passenger<br />
on the aircraft. She hopes that this experience<br />
will encourage him to travel and see the world<br />
when he’s older.<br />
Blessing Samii<br />
Nationality<br />
Zimbabwean<br />
Profession<br />
Nurse<br />
Place of Residence<br />
Cape Town<br />
Why New York?<br />
Begin her son’s travels<br />
with one of the world’s top<br />
destinations<br />
Parents often want to live their lives<br />
through their children. Personally, I’m<br />
flipping this narrative on its head; I want<br />
my son to live his life through me, and be<br />
curious and go beyond where we live. To go<br />
farther away without losing where we are,<br />
who we are. I think the world is too vast<br />
and too diverse to die not learning a bit of<br />
what it has to offer.<br />
Although we live in the lovely age of<br />
the Internet, we can’t explore the real<br />
world online. We have to pack a bag and<br />
see it for ourselves, and not be influenced<br />
by what other people think. This is why<br />
I’m on this flight to New York with my<br />
son Malachi. He will be turning three in a<br />
few days, and I wanted it to happen there .<br />
I like to think that he will get a head start<br />
by seeing one of the world’s top cities on<br />
his first journey. I can’t wait to see Times<br />
Square. I’ve seen it a lot on TV. New York<br />
looks wonderful and I hope it meets my<br />
expectations.<br />
We will spend 10 days in the US.<br />
Malachi might not remember this trip<br />
when he’s older, but I hope that some part<br />
of it stays with him, such as travelling on<br />
the subway, seeing the many bright lights<br />
in Times Square, or the beautiful autumn<br />
streets. I hope he remembers that he had a<br />
great time in New York. I hope to plant in<br />
him the seed of travelling and of curiosity.<br />
I think that when you travel, you open<br />
yourself up to a different world. It’s like<br />
discovering new doors to a house, going<br />
in there and finding a totally different<br />
experience. I love travelling even though I<br />
haven’t done much of it because of cost<br />
and work obligations. Italy is also on my<br />
wish list. I want to go there for the wine<br />
and that festive, bonhomie Italian vibe.<br />
I’ve been told that Malachi is the<br />
youngest person on this inaugural flight.<br />
I hope that one day he will know that he<br />
was part of this great history in the making.<br />
So far he’s having a great time. The food is<br />
great. The inflight entertainment is good<br />
too. Kenya Airways has obviously catered<br />
for child travellers as well. We are having<br />
the time of our lives and the atmosphere is<br />
just magic.<br />
“I like to think that he<br />
will get a head start by<br />
seeing one of the<br />
world’s top cities”
44 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance BUSINESS /45<br />
At a glance<br />
Somalia<br />
Have a closer look at the potential of Somalia.<br />
The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,<br />
touristic attractions and social trends of today.<br />
text Yvette Bax infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
46 / BUSINESS / Interview BUSINESS / 47<br />
NOT<br />
MY BAG<br />
Seeing PLASTIC BAGS littering the<br />
landscape enraged James Wakibia so much<br />
that he took matters into his own hands;<br />
thus began a modern-day hero’s journey.<br />
text Joseph Maina<br />
James Wakibia<br />
Born<br />
25 January, 1983 in Matuiku, Nakuru<br />
County, Kenya.<br />
Profession<br />
Photographer, environmental activist<br />
and public speaker.<br />
Education<br />
Bachelor of Arts degree in<br />
Communication and Media from<br />
Kenya’s Egerton University (2014).<br />
Greatest achievement<br />
Kenya’s 2017 ban on single-use<br />
plastics.<br />
Motto<br />
Less plastic is fantastic.<br />
What inspired your interest in the<br />
environment?<br />
While I was at university, I took a<br />
three-month environmental science module,<br />
taught by Dr Stanley M. Makindi, a<br />
very environmentally conscious man.<br />
His passion for the planet, his faith in<br />
humanity and his belief that everyone<br />
has the ability to make a difference – far<br />
and wide – by taking the first steps<br />
themselves, lit a fire inside me that has<br />
never gone out. That’s when I began<br />
really talking about the environment.<br />
And that’s when I took action.<br />
I embarked on my path in 2010. My<br />
first step was nothing particularly special.<br />
I just took my camera with me to<br />
Mathare – a slum in Nairobi – and took<br />
a picture of plastics clogging a nearby<br />
river. It looked like a river of plastic; it<br />
was an environmental disaster. But it<br />
wasn’t until I saw the rubbish in the<br />
Nakuru dumpsite that I truly understood<br />
the significance of that image.<br />
That scene was the turning point; that’s<br />
when my activism began in earnest.<br />
Describe the situation at Lake Nakuru<br />
Nakuru town’s dumpsite is on an<br />
elevation, with the town in the middle<br />
and the lake on the lower side. When it<br />
rains, most waste leaves the dumpsite and<br />
heads to Lake Nakuru, which has had<br />
quite a beating from pollution, mostly as<br />
a result of urbanisation.<br />
A study conducted a few years ago<br />
revealed that up to 20 tons of plastic<br />
debris was being collected every year in<br />
and around Lake Nakuru National Park.<br />
Flamingos in the lake were disappearing,<br />
and this was often because of plastic<br />
pollution.<br />
Why are plastic bags so harmful to the<br />
environment?<br />
They don’t biodegrade, and they’re<br />
often thrown away after being used once.<br />
That’s the most disturbing thing that<br />
came into my mind. Some day you’ll go<br />
shopping for five commodities and carry<br />
them in five different plastic bags. After<br />
that single use, these bags are often discarded<br />
and live for hundreds of years, >
48 / BUSINESS / Interview<br />
while destroying the environment. Even<br />
if they break down, they break down<br />
into micro-plastics, which are even more<br />
dangerous because they’re carried off<br />
into the rivers and oceans where they’re<br />
eaten by fish. And we end up ingesting<br />
them too, when we eat the fish.<br />
dumpsite, carrying placards, all the way<br />
to the Nakuru County headquarters.<br />
There were so many of us. I felt proud.<br />
We were very motivated at this point.<br />
I looked in the eyes of my allies and I<br />
had goose bumps. I could see that the fire<br />
was inside them too. I was excited. We<br />
were doing something meaningful that<br />
was also fun. That sort of satisfaction is<br />
hard to describe.<br />
Our message was heard, because two<br />
but I didn’t see lack of money as something<br />
that could stop me. I had university<br />
friends, and we knew we could do it. I<br />
had social media. If I needed to print<br />
something, I had classmates to do a few<br />
posters. Even today, I say that if more<br />
money had been available at the time, I<br />
would have done more. But it never<br />
What did you do to get the<br />
government’s attention?<br />
I started taking pictures of the Gioto<br />
dumpsite in Nakuru town. I then organised<br />
a petition, seeking 10,000 signatures<br />
from residents of the town to relocate<br />
the dumpsite or close it down. I collected<br />
about 5,000, and then I marshalled my<br />
classmates, who bought my idea that we<br />
should do a protest from the dumpsite as<br />
we deliver the petition to the governor.<br />
On 27 July 2013, we walked from the<br />
Timeline<br />
2013<br />
James Wakibia and his campus colleagues<br />
start campaigning for a ban on single-use<br />
plastic bags.<br />
28 February, 2017<br />
Kenya announces the ban on use,<br />
manufacture and importation of all carrier<br />
and flat plastic bags used for commercial<br />
and household packaging.<br />
24-25 August, 2017<br />
Kenya’s Ministry of Environment and Natural<br />
Resources, in conjunction with National<br />
Environment Management Authority,<br />
organise the annual Alternative Eco-Friendly<br />
Exhibition to sensitise manufacturers,<br />
retailers, distributors and the public to<br />
alternative packaging material.<br />
28 August, 2017<br />
Ban on plastic bags takes effect in Kenya.<br />
“We were doing something meaningful that was also<br />
fun. That sort of satisfaction is hard to describe”<br />
weeks later the county’s minister for the<br />
environment told me that, though it<br />
would be difficult to close down Gioto<br />
dumpsite, they would try and manage it.<br />
Of course, I noticed later that it wasn’t<br />
the dumpsite’s fault. The problem was<br />
plastics. So I started talking about plastic<br />
and why we need to ban it, and control<br />
plastic pollution. I wrote opinion articles<br />
in local newspapers and took a lot of<br />
pictures of plastic pollution. I then<br />
shared them on social media.<br />
Which of your activities had the most<br />
impact on government policy?<br />
My petition against the use of plastic<br />
bags in Nakuru County, which was later<br />
tabled before the Nakuru County<br />
Assembly, was the launchpad for the<br />
ban. My relentless lobbying on social<br />
media was also influential because it<br />
culminated in an endorsement on Twitter<br />
by Judy Wakhungu, who was Kenya’s<br />
Cabinet Secretary for Environment,<br />
Water & Natural Resources at the time.<br />
In September 2015, she sent a tweet<br />
supporting my hashtag: #BanPlasticsKE.<br />
This was a game-changer in the war<br />
against plastics in Kenya. From this<br />
point, Wakhungu propagated the antiplastic<br />
campaign through her Twitter<br />
channel and gave it greater momentum.<br />
What were the main challenges?<br />
I didn’t see challenges. You know,<br />
when you are mad about something, you<br />
don’t see anything that can stop you. I<br />
had no money – a potential challenge –<br />
crossed my mind that I didn’t have money,<br />
because I was so passionate.<br />
How do you feel now about the<br />
movement against plastic pollution?<br />
I am very optimistic, because so<br />
many people and governments are<br />
talking about plastic pollution. I think<br />
people are becoming conscious about<br />
the plastics they use in their daily lives,<br />
and the impact these plastics have on<br />
the planet.<br />
What are you working on at the<br />
moment?<br />
I’m starting a new project called<br />
#RethinkPlastics, which is basically<br />
trying to tell people to rethink their use<br />
of plastics, especially single-use plastics.<br />
If you don’t need it, please don’t use it. If<br />
you don’t need that straw, leave it. It will<br />
not be reused, and it will never be recycled.<br />
Once you use it for those five or so<br />
minutes, its usefulness ends there, but it<br />
remains on the planet for hundreds of<br />
years.<br />
What are your hopes for the future?<br />
I hope to see a more sustainable<br />
world: a greener world, with less singleuse<br />
plastics. I want my son to grow up in<br />
a world free from them, where we don’t<br />
have single-use cups and bags. I don’t<br />
want him to grow up in a plastic world.<br />
I want the world to develop in a more<br />
sustainable way, where everything can<br />
be reused or recycled, and there is less<br />
waste; a world where what we call waste<br />
can be used by somebody else.
50 / TRAVEL / Quiz<br />
Guess<br />
and Win<br />
We give you five clues about a<br />
KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />
Which city are we referring to?<br />
Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />
or Twitter using #msafiriquiz,<br />
and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />
text Ben Clark<br />
1<br />
Humpback whales can be seen in this city during September<br />
and October, when they migrate from their breeding<br />
grounds in the tropics.<br />
2<br />
This city, know locally as Mother City, was number one in<br />
The New York Times article, 52 Places to Go in 2014.<br />
3<br />
Author J.M. Coetzee, who has won many awards, such as<br />
the Nobel Prize in Literature 2003 and the Booker Prize in<br />
1983 and 1999, was born here.<br />
4<br />
Biltong – dried, salted and spiced strips of beef or game<br />
– is a popular snack in this city.<br />
5<br />
Dr Christiaan Barnard performed the first-ever heart<br />
transplant at Groote Schuur Hospital here in 1967.<br />
Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #msafiriquiz. Each month, Kenya Airways will pick a winner<br />
and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.<br />
Shutterstock, Getty Images, ANP Foto
52 / TRAVEL / Barcelona<br />
TRAVEL / 53<br />
Magical<br />
5<br />
Metropolis<br />
1<br />
2<br />
BARCELONA, in northeast Spain, is<br />
one of Europe’s biggest tourist magnets.<br />
Annette Lavrijsen, who recently moved<br />
there, has discovered what makes the<br />
coastal city so attractive.<br />
6<br />
text Annette Lavrijsen<br />
3<br />
4<br />
7<br />
Robert Harding, Matteo Colombo, Stocksy<br />
“I’M SO HAPPY for you both, this is the best city in the world.” For a<br />
second, I thought she would burst into tears of joy, but my mother-in-law<br />
simply turned her head and gazed in the direction of the Mediterranean<br />
Sea. Having eaten Sunday lunch, we were having coffee on the balcony,<br />
which also looks out onto the mountains, in the midst of which are the<br />
city’s elegant apartment blocks intersected by wide avenues and, in the<br />
distance, the heavenly towers and cranes of the Sagrada Família church.<br />
“Surely everyone living here would describe this place in the same<br />
way?” I thought to myself as I leaned over the balustrade and watched the<br />
whirling leaves on the street announcing the arrival of winter. By the time<br />
spring kicked in, we had moved into a small apartment in Barcelona’s<br />
centre, where I became engrossed in architecture, food culture and<br />
unapologetic creativity. ><br />
1. Outdoor cafés at Plaça Reial 2. Windows of Plaza Batlló 3. Spanish tiles 4. A tourist<br />
at Avinguda Diagonal 5. Sunrise at Barceloneta beach 6. Art Deco pharmacy at la<br />
Rambla 7. Rooftop of Casa Milà with a view on the Sagrada Família
54 / TRAVEL / Barcelona<br />
TRAVEL / 55<br />
“Sit down at one of<br />
the many squares for a<br />
coffee or a glass of beer<br />
and some tapas”<br />
ARCHITECTURAL WONDERLAND<br />
Being adorned with brilliant works of architecture, both from the past<br />
and the present, Barcelona’s urban landscape is often described as magical.<br />
The underground transport network, which is one of Europe’s best,<br />
provides efficient access to the spellbinding streets of the central neighbourhoods.<br />
From the Barrio Gòtico – with its enchanting alleyways and<br />
ancient cathedral – to the distinguished Eixample – with its richly decorated,<br />
multi-hued façades and luxury boutiques – and El Poblenou, the<br />
former industrial district that is now a hub for innovation and<br />
creativity, each area has a distinct identity.<br />
Central threads are the modernist buildings, parks and street lamps that<br />
are dotted across the city. Many of these sprouted from the imagination of<br />
the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926), who was at the forefront<br />
of Catalan Modernism. Taking inspiration from the colours, shapes and<br />
structures in nature, he was a pioneer in his field, and his dreamlike work<br />
led to the creation of some of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Casa<br />
Batlló (Passeig de Gràcia 43), with its polychrome façade decorated with<br />
glass and ceramic, and undulating roof representing a mythical dragon,<br />
may be his most original achievement. Gaudí’s masterpiece is undeniably the<br />
aforementioned Sagrada Família (Carrer de Mallorca, 401), a basilica to<br />
which he dedicated 16 years of his life, living as a recluse in the building<br />
until he was hit by a tram and died in 1926. Since then, he rests in the<br />
crypt of the basilica awaiting the completion of his dream. Don’t miss<br />
out; book your tickets in advance for a look inside.<br />
Or walk a few blocks up to Ayre Hotel Rossellón on Carrer de Rosseló<br />
390, and take the lift to the rooftop terrace for a cocktail and incredible<br />
views of the 7 (of 18) completed towers. Another unfinished gem is Park<br />
Güell, on the slopes of the Sierra de Collserola mountain range, which is<br />
so mystical that you need to see it to believe it. The fairy-tale gardens<br />
with colourful mosaic animals and rock-covered pathways have led some<br />
to believe that Gaudí was under the influence of hallucinogens when he<br />
created it.<br />
CREATIVE CHARM<br />
After visiting this tourism hotspot, you may want to enter “Plaça del<br />
Sol” in Google Maps and follow the route downhill through Gràcia, a<br />
former village that was engulfed by the city but has preserved its smalltown<br />
charm. The area, currently one of the hippest and most artistic in<br />
Barcelona, has fewer tourists, which guarantees a relaxed vibe. Wander<br />
through the narrow streets – lined by small artisan workshops, bric-abrac<br />
shops and vegan bakeries – and sit down at one of the many squares<br />
for a coffee or a glass of beer and some tapas. Besides the Plaça del Sol,<br />
the most charming squares are the Plaça de Rius i Taulet, recognisable by<br />
the clock tower in its centre (where you might stumble upon a live music<br />
event) and Plaça de la Virreina, which evokes a flavour of the old Gràcia,<br />
with a quaint church and locals chatting in the shade of the trees.<br />
From Gràcia, it’s an easy walk to the more central Eixample district,<br />
via the elegant Passeig de Gràcia, where you can find the chic boutiques of<br />
Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermès, next to flagship stores of Spanish<br />
brands, such as Massimo Dutti and Zara. ><br />
1. Empty terrace on the beach 2. Sagrada Família 3. A girl with a bicycle downtown<br />
4. Restaurants at Plaça Reial 5. Bike lane 6. Park Güell 7. A narrow street in the Barrio<br />
Gòtico 8. The cable car to Mount Montjuïc 9. Close-up of a fountain at Plaça Reial<br />
WHERE TO SLEEP<br />
Casa Bonay<br />
Located in a neoclassical building from<br />
1869, which was brought back to life by a<br />
team of designers, chefs and local artisans.<br />
At the weekends this is a place where the<br />
cool crowd hangs out. Gran Via de les Corts<br />
Catalanes, 700<br />
casabonay.com<br />
Hotel Grand Central<br />
A five-star hotel with a luxury spa, sky bar<br />
and rooftop pool that offer panoramic views<br />
across the city. Via Laietana, 30<br />
grandhotelcentral.com<br />
Margot House<br />
A home away from home with an elegantly<br />
decorated living area, complete with kitchen<br />
and library. Paseo de Gracia, 46<br />
margothouse.es<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Terraza Martínez<br />
Have lunch here and enjoy some of the best<br />
views of the city. Afterwards, walk off your<br />
meal on Montjuïc and take the cable car<br />
down to the beach. Carretera de Miramar, 38<br />
martinezbarcelona.com<br />
Mauri<br />
The best way to cope with Barcelona’s late<br />
dinner hours is to have a merienda around 6<br />
p.m., traditionally consisting of hot chocolate<br />
and a sweet snack. The cakes are legendary<br />
here. Rambla de Catalunya, 102<br />
pasteleriasmauri.com<br />
Pez Vela<br />
Share a paella at this contemporary classic,<br />
on the groundfloor of Hotel W. Paseo del<br />
Mare Nostrum 19/21<br />
grupotragaluz.com<br />
Boca Grande<br />
Go here for the best cocktails in Eixample.<br />
Passatge de la Concepció, 12<br />
bocagrande.cat<br />
Collage Art & Cocktail Social Club<br />
For a more intimate experience try this<br />
cocktail bar in El Born. C/ Consellers, 4<br />
collagecocktailbar.com<br />
Robert Harding, Stocksy, Getty Images, Alamy<br />
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56 / TRAVEL / Barcelona<br />
TRAVEL / 57<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
8<br />
“It didn’t take long<br />
for me to find out that<br />
life in Barcelona revolves<br />
around food”<br />
THINGS TO DO<br />
• Watch a flamenco show or music concert at<br />
the Palau de la Música Catalana, which is<br />
beautiful inside and out (palaumusica.cat).<br />
• To avoid the flocks of tourists, book the first<br />
walking tour of the day (most are for free) and<br />
explore the Barrio Gòtico at its best. Highlights<br />
are the Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, Plaça Reial<br />
and the old Jewish street Sant Domènec del<br />
Call, which has recently been renamed Carrer<br />
de Salomó Ben Adret.<br />
• Visit the stadium of the legendary football club<br />
FC Barcelona or, in short, Barça. However,<br />
never say “Barça” when you mean the city of<br />
Barcelona, lest you want to come across as a<br />
guiri (ignorant tourist).<br />
• The Picasso Museum is the city’s most<br />
famous museum, but just as interesting are<br />
the Fundácio Joan Miró, showing works by<br />
the Catalan artist and more contemporary<br />
surrealists, and the CaixaForum Barcelona,<br />
an odd mashup of a warehouse and a castle<br />
by modernist architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch,<br />
boasting epic seasonal shows loaned from the<br />
world’s most important museums. For shows<br />
see: museupicasso.bcn.cat, fmirobcn.org and<br />
caixaforum.es/barcelona.<br />
• Explore El Poblenou, a district buzzing with<br />
creativity. Highlights are the Design Museum<br />
of Barcelona and Torre Glòries, La Rambla del<br />
Poblenou, and the Palo Alto artistic colony,<br />
which often organises food markets at the<br />
weekend.<br />
URBAN BEACHES<br />
Blessed with a Mediterranean climate, Barcelona has soft winters and<br />
sunny days most of the year, which are probably best enjoyed on the<br />
Barceloneta seafront. Once the home of fishermen, this area now offers<br />
1,100 m of sandy beaches, surf rentals and xiringuitos (beach bars) as the<br />
main attractions for visitors.<br />
Shelter from the sun can be found in Barceloneta’s back streets, where<br />
you’ll walk under a ceiling of drying clothes and eat like a king in the<br />
plethora of traditional bars and restaurants. All-time favourites are Bar<br />
Bitácora and Bar Jai-Ca, where you’ll find reasonably priced tapas and<br />
good vibes, and seafood restaurant Montolio Can Maño. Or follow the<br />
scent of fried fish and find yourself a spot in La Cova Fumada, an oldschool<br />
bodega that is known for its oily pa amb tomàquet (tomato bread)<br />
and the tastiest bombas (breaded potato and meat balls served with aioli<br />
and brava sauces) in town. It’s greasy, but good.<br />
FOODIE HAVEN<br />
It didn’t take long for me to find out that life in Barcelona revolves<br />
around food. Conversations among friends or relatives always seem to<br />
end up with a discussion on what, where and how to eat. I wonder if<br />
there’s a causal relation with the astoundingly high density of restaurants<br />
that, apart from the tourist traps around La Rambla, mostly offer good<br />
quality for a very decent price. A smart option is the three-course menu<br />
del dia, which usually costs between US$12-18 (including a drink), and is<br />
often outstanding.<br />
Whereas the choice in modern international cuisine is increasing,<br />
most restaurants still serve traditional fare, as defined by the many<br />
migrants from other regions in Spain. Worth a try are the Catalan butifarra<br />
(sausage) and arroz negro (black rice), Galician seafood, Andalusian<br />
tapas, Basque pintxos (small snacks) and Asturian meat stews and cheeses.<br />
Streets that are well-known for their food scene are Carrer d’Enric<br />
Granados, a semi-pedestrianised oasis a stone’s throw from Eixample’s<br />
most-visited monuments; the unpretentious Carrer de Blai in Poble-Sec,<br />
which is the place for a midday vermouth and some pintxos; and the<br />
streets around the Santa Caterina market in El Born.<br />
With a vast array of wine and cocktail bars, El Born is famous for its<br />
cosmopolitan nightlife. But, just as interesting, is the wide range of concept<br />
stores, art galleries and local designer shops, where you can find unique,<br />
custom-made pieces by Barcelona’s creatives. El Born’s main shopping<br />
streets are Carrer de la Princesa and Carrer de l’Argenteria. Don’t forget<br />
to browse the little streets for the most special gems.<br />
THE WHOLE PACKAGE<br />
In addition to what I’ve mentioned above, probably one of the<br />
best things about Barcelona is its convenient location – with easy flight<br />
connections to all major European cities – and close proximity to the<br />
Mediterranean Sea and mountains. A while ago, I was having dinner<br />
with a friend who described his day to me: he had woken up early to go<br />
skiing in the Pyrenees, stopped on the way back to take a dip in the sea,<br />
and went shopping in Passeig de Gràcia before meeting me for a relaxed<br />
dinner. All in one day! I expect that it won’t be long before I start telling<br />
people that Barcelona is the best city in the world.<br />
6 7 9<br />
Robert Harding, Stocksy, Getty Images<br />
Kenya Airways operates flights to Barcelona<br />
via Amsterdam from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta<br />
International Airport.<br />
1. Street light with Catalan colours 2. Interior view of the Sagrada Família 3. Quimet and<br />
Quimet tapas bar 4. Street in the Old City 5. Torre Glòries (formally Torre Agbar) marks<br />
the gateway to Barcelona’s technological district 6. Light and ceiling inside Casa Batlló<br />
7. A paddle board 8. La Boqueria Market 9. A restaurant menu in the Barrio Gòtico
58 / HERITAGE / Fashion<br />
HERITAGE / 59<br />
Celestin (67) cuts a stylish figure outside a<br />
local shop. He has been a Sapeur since he<br />
was 12. He has four children and works as<br />
a mason and builder. His favourite item is<br />
his pair of Giorgio Armani braces.<br />
Kass (42) has been a<br />
Sapeur for 20 years. He<br />
has three children and<br />
sells clothes in a small<br />
shop. His favourite item<br />
is his pair of J.M. Weston<br />
shoes, which can cost<br />
hundreds of dollars.<br />
© Tariq Zaidi<br />
FRESH<br />
DEBONAIR<br />
Milan, Paris, London and...Brazzaville?<br />
The Republic of the Congo’s capital might be an<br />
unlikely hub of haute couture, but its SAPEURS<br />
have given “dapper” a new meaning.<br />
text and photography Tariq Zaidi
60 / HERITAGE / Fashion<br />
HERITAGE / 61<br />
Below: Elie (45) has been a Sapeur<br />
since the age of 10. He has one child<br />
and owns two taxis, which he rents out<br />
in order to save up for his Ganni bag,<br />
J.M. Weston crocodile shoes and Louis<br />
Vuitton cane. But his most prized item is<br />
his blue Ruben O suit. Right page above:<br />
Arle (33) performs the signature Sapeur<br />
greeting of stamping and clicking his<br />
heels together. He has been a Sapeur for<br />
eight years and works as a driver. Right<br />
page below: Celestin (67) is a builder<br />
who has been a Sapeur for 55 years. He<br />
shows off his beloved Emmanuelle Khanh<br />
sunglasses and Giorgio Armani braces.<br />
IMMACULATELY DRESSED in<br />
a pink three-piece suit, bow tie and<br />
sunglasses, Maxim wouldn’t look out<br />
of place on a catwalk at Paris Fashion<br />
Week. But he happens to be strutting his<br />
stuff in Ouenzé, a suburb of Brazzaville.<br />
Despite the sewage-strewn streets, crumbling<br />
concrete homes, chickens pecking<br />
the dust around his feet and, of course,<br />
the intense heat, this 43-year-old Sapeur<br />
looks like a million dollars. Followers of<br />
Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes<br />
Élégantes (the Society of Tastemakers<br />
and Elegant People) aka La SAPE, the<br />
Sapeurs will spend US$3,000 on a suit<br />
when they don’t even have running<br />
water, and go without food in order<br />
to save up for the right designer accessories.<br />
Most have ordinary day jobs as<br />
taxi drivers and gardeners, but as soon<br />
as they clock off, they transform themselves<br />
into debonair dandies.<br />
Defying their circumstances by<br />
sashaying through the streets, the Sapeurs<br />
are treated like rock stars as they turn<br />
heads and bring joie de vivre to their<br />
communities. Spending money on ornate<br />
umbrellas and silk socks might seem<br />
surreal when almost half the population<br />
of the country lives in poverty, but the<br />
La SAPE movement aims to do more<br />
than just lift spirits. Over the decades, it<br />
has functioned as a form of resistance,<br />
social activism and peaceful protest.<br />
La Mairie or De Guy, bars on the<br />
dusty streets in Brazzaville, may not<br />
look like churches or temples, but every<br />
Sunday evening the Sapeurs visit these<br />
well-known places of worship. Their<br />
god is fashion and, as you’d expect, the<br />
ceremonial robes are spectacular. From<br />
the tips of their Armani fedoras, to the<br />
soles of their shiny J.M.Weston shoes,<br />
these men are dressed to the nines. As<br />
they click their heels, showing off flamboyant<br />
braces while twirling their canes,<br />
© Tariq Zaidi<br />
“The true art lies in a Sapeur’s ability to put together a<br />
look that is European, but has an African twist”<br />
they’re in stark contrast with their slumlike<br />
surroundings. The Republic of the<br />
Congo is one of the poorest countries in<br />
the world, and yet for followers of La<br />
SAPE, labels are everything – knock-offs<br />
are not accepted – and they prefer to<br />
get their clothes directly from Europe,<br />
waiting for friends to travel to Paris or<br />
London to buy clothes from designers<br />
such as Dior, Gucci, Jean-Paul Gaultier,<br />
Armani, Kenzo, Yamamoto and Versace.<br />
The gross national income per capita<br />
(per year) in the Republic of the Congo<br />
may be US$1,710, but the Sapeurs will<br />
think nothing of spending that on a<br />
single pair of shoes.<br />
Most of these men will save up for<br />
years or borrow huge sums to fund their<br />
lavish wardrobes. They will also share<br />
clothes to maintain the appearance of<br />
affluence, pick up items from fashion<br />
boutiques in Brazzaville, or have pieces<br />
made by local tailors. True “Sapologie”<br />
is about more than expensive labels; the<br />
true art lies in a Sapeur’s ability to >
62 / HERITAGE / Fashion<br />
HERITAGE / 63<br />
put together a look that is European,<br />
but has an African twist.<br />
The movement can be traced back<br />
to the Congolese resistance in the 1920s,<br />
when young men sought to adopt and<br />
imitate French and Belgian clothes as a<br />
way of combating colonial superiority.<br />
Congolese houseboys spurned their<br />
masters’ secondhand clothes and became<br />
defiant consumers, acquiring the latest<br />
fashions from Paris by spending their<br />
small monthly wages extravagantly.<br />
After independence in 1960, Kinshasa<br />
– the Democratic Republic of the Congo’s<br />
capital – and Brazzaville became centres<br />
for a new African Francophone elite.<br />
They travelled to Paris and London,<br />
returning with designer clothes. Congolese<br />
people are known for taking pride<br />
in their appearance – their maxim being<br />
that they would rather dress well than eat<br />
well – yet La SAPE takes the art of looking<br />
good to the next level. Papa Wemba,<br />
the famously dapper Congolese rumba<br />
singer credited with popularising the<br />
Sapeur look, said inspiration for La<br />
SAPE came from his parents who, in the<br />
1960s, were, “always well put together,<br />
always looking very smart.”<br />
Although during the 1980s there<br />
were campaigns to ban Sapeurs from<br />
public spaces, they have been resurgent<br />
in recent years, and are now treated<br />
with respect as a vital and life-affirming<br />
part of the country’s cultural heritage.<br />
Sapeurs of all ages continue to gather<br />
to dance, talk and have friendly fashion<br />
face-offs as they compete for the bestdressed<br />
title. In a country torn apart by<br />
colonialism, corruption, civil war and<br />
poverty, the Sapeurs have found that<br />
shared sartorial ambitions – and their<br />
gentlemanly civil code of conduct – can<br />
help to heal the infighting. “I don’t see<br />
how anyone in La SAPE could be<br />
violent or fight. Peace means a lot to<br />
us,” says Severin (62), whose father was<br />
also a Sapeur.<br />
The La SAPE movement is constantly<br />
evolving beause the country’s disenfranchised<br />
youth see fashion as a way of<br />
navigating the journey from developing<br />
country to a more hopeful future.<br />
Despite being a tradition passed down<br />
the patrilineage, many Congolese women<br />
have begun donning designer suits, in<br />
order to become “Sapeuses”. And the<br />
increasing La SAPE following across<br />
Central Africa is being helped by the<br />
region’s exuberance and freedom of<br />
expression.<br />
As Papa Wemba once said, “White<br />
people invented the clothes, but we make<br />
an art of it.” Indeed, a quick perusal of<br />
the images herein should leave you in<br />
little doubt as to “who wore it better?”<br />
Boukaka (30) has<br />
been a Sapeur for 25<br />
years. He works as<br />
an electrician, has a<br />
child and is married.<br />
Although he loves<br />
his Ray-Ban glasses<br />
and Tissot watch, his<br />
favourite accessory is<br />
his earring.<br />
“The Sapeurs<br />
will spend<br />
US$3,000 on a<br />
suit when they<br />
don’t even have<br />
running water”<br />
© Tariq Zaidi<br />
Above: Maxim (43) has been a Sapeur<br />
since he was seven years old. He mixes<br />
labels such as Yves Saint Laurent and<br />
Christian Dior with suits that he has made<br />
himself. Now married and the father of<br />
two children, he teaches others the art of<br />
dressing elegantly. Left: Nino (31) takes a<br />
stroll through his neighbourhood with his<br />
Mississippi-style wooden pipe. He paints<br />
houses and fixes roofs, but in Sapeur<br />
mode, he’s treated like a rock star.
ENTERTAINMENT / 65<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
offers its passengers<br />
complimentary inflight<br />
entertainment.<br />
The programme will<br />
vary in different aircraft<br />
types. Check your<br />
screen to view the<br />
selection on your flight.<br />
Relax & Enjoy<br />
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />
Gravity<br />
(read more on the next page)<br />
“ You just point the damned thing at Earth.<br />
It’s not rocket science”<br />
– Matt Kowalski –<br />
Played by George Clooney in the movie Gravity<br />
MOVIE RATINGS<br />
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.
66 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT / 67<br />
New Releases<br />
New Releases<br />
Gravity<br />
Sci-Fi<br />
Alfonso Cuarón approached the<br />
creation of Gravity with one clear<br />
theme in mind: adversity. From<br />
this sprung the image of a lone<br />
figure spinning into space.<br />
Gravity follows medical engineer Dr.<br />
Ryan Stone (Sandra Bullock) as she<br />
embarks on her first space mission.<br />
Alongside her, on his last expedition<br />
before retirement, is veteran astronaut<br />
Matt Kowalski (George Clooney).<br />
When debris strikes their shuttle, causing<br />
irreparable damage and killing all<br />
but Stone and Kowalski, the two are left<br />
stranded with little hope of rescue.<br />
Though intent on survival, they must<br />
overcome extreme conditions and acute<br />
isolation as they fight to make it back to<br />
Earth. On more than one occasion, the<br />
looming maw of space forces them to<br />
confront their own mortality.<br />
Cuarón and his team were faced with<br />
unique challenges as they worked to<br />
accurately simulate the physics of space.<br />
They were pushing the boundaries of<br />
film-making, and at times it seemed as<br />
thought their dream was impossible to<br />
execute. Four years of dedication and<br />
innovation later however, Gravity came<br />
to screens in all its cinematic glory. It<br />
has since been lauded for its cinematography,<br />
visual effects, musical score and<br />
direction. Sandra Bullock’s performance<br />
was also met with much critical acclaim.<br />
Tag (2018) COMEDY<br />
Every year, five friends meet to play tag, which they’ve done since school. This<br />
year, the game coincides with the wedding of the only undefeated player.<br />
Jeremy Renner, Ed Helms, Jake Johnson. R, 100 mins. Director: Jeff Tomsic.<br />
Crazy Rich Asians (2018) COMEDY<br />
This contemporary romantic comedy, based on a global bestseller, follows<br />
native New Yorker Rachel Chu to Singapore to meet her boyfriend’s family.<br />
Constance Wu, Henry Golding. PG-13, 120 mins, Director: Jon M. Chu.<br />
Modern Life Is Rubbish (2017) COMEDY<br />
Brought together by their shared love of music, Liam and Natalie are at<br />
breaking point. In their case, opposites attract in the short term.<br />
Ian Hart. R, 105 mins. Director: Daniel Jerome Gill.<br />
Ocean’s 8 (2018) ACTION<br />
Just out of prison, Danny Ocean’s sister and criminal mastermind, Debbie,<br />
gathers a crew of female thieves to pull off the heist of the century.<br />
Sandra Bullock, Cate Blanchett. PG-13, 110 mins. Director: Gary Ross.<br />
The Darkest Minds (2018) SCI-FI<br />
After a disease kills most of America’s children, the survivors develop superpowers<br />
and are placed in internment camps. A group of teens escapes.<br />
Mandy Moore. PG-13, 103 mins. Director: Jennifer Yuh Nelson.<br />
The Predator (2018) ACTION<br />
When the universe’s most lethal hunters return to Earth, only a ragtag<br />
crew of ex-soldiers and a teacher can prevent the end of the human race.<br />
Yvonne Strahovski, Olivia Munn. R, 107 mins. Director: Shane Black.<br />
Sandra Bullock, George Clooney.<br />
PG-13, 91 mins. Director: Alfonso Cuarón.<br />
Did you know<br />
~ It took more than three years to create the film’s visual effects.<br />
~ During filming Sandra Bullock was placed inside a giant, mechanical<br />
rig for up to 10 hours at a time.<br />
The Mercy (2018) ADVENTURE<br />
The incredible story of amateur sailor Donald Crowhurst and his solo attempt<br />
to circumnavigate the globe.<br />
Rachel Weisz, Colin Firth. R, 112 mins. Director: James Marsh.<br />
The Wedding Guest (2017) COMEDY<br />
Returning home for his ex-girlfriend’s wedding, Adam must convince himself<br />
and everyone else that he is truly happy for her.<br />
Lea Thompson, Cobie Smulders. R, 105 mins. Director: Ryan Eggold.<br />
The Meg (2018) ACTION<br />
After escaping an attack by what he claims was a 21-m shark, Jonas Taylor<br />
must confront his fears to save those trapped in a sunken submersible.<br />
Ruby Rose, Jason Statham. PG-13, 113 mins. Director: Jon Turteltaub.
68 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT / 69<br />
African Highlights<br />
Bollywood<br />
My Story<br />
Dear Mummy B<br />
Film<br />
Picks from<br />
the continent<br />
We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,<br />
including drama and comedy.<br />
My Story (2018) DRAMA<br />
A civil engineer supervising a building in a poor village takes a liking to a<br />
poor boy. Things take an interesting turn when the engineer takes the boy<br />
with him to the city.<br />
Zubby Michael, Offiafuluagu Mbaka, Chizzy Alichi. R, 134 mins. Director:<br />
Daniel Chukwueze.<br />
Wet (2018) ROMANCE<br />
A successful career woman, who has been jilted by many men, falls in love<br />
with her assistant.<br />
Ruth Kadiri, Fred Peters. R, 94 mins. Director: Emmanuel Mang Eme.<br />
Dear Mummy B (2018) DRAMA<br />
A single mother’s advice to her daughter’s friend goes viral on the<br />
Internet, bringing with it fame and fortune. It also places a strain on their<br />
relationship.<br />
Ada Ameh, Yvonne Jegede Fawole. R, 100 mins. Director: Tope Oshin.<br />
Wet<br />
Cooked Up Love<br />
Cooked Up Love (2018) ROMANCE<br />
A combination of good looks, charisma and finesse makes Chef Abbey’s TV<br />
show the toast of the cooking community. A twist on the show results in an<br />
unlikely reunion with his ex.<br />
Enado Odigie, Bimbo Ademoye. R, 98 mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.<br />
Blood Brothers (2018) DRAMA<br />
A greedy man attempts to usurp family assets after the demise of his brother.<br />
However, his nephew decides to take measures to curb his uncle’s excesses.<br />
Daniel K Daniel, Chinwe Owoh. R, 132 mins.<br />
After Dark (2018) DRAMA<br />
A ghetto boy invites his friend to stay in his mother’s house, only for his<br />
presence to attract danger and propel his life in a different direction.<br />
Daniel K Daniel, Ebele Okaru Onyiuke. R, 136 mins.<br />
The Friend Zone (2017) DRAMA<br />
Two good friends find themselves in a predicament when their emotions<br />
get in the way of their friendship.<br />
Ebube Nwagbo, Onyii Alex. R, 97 mins.<br />
Wife for Rent (2016) ROMANCE<br />
An ambitious young man seeks out a wife to rent when a colleague tells<br />
him that he is likely to be overlooked for promotion at work because he’s<br />
unmarried.<br />
Seun Akindele, Mimi Orjiekwe, Tissy Nnachi. PG-13, 114 mins.<br />
We’ve selected some recent comedy, drama and musical titles<br />
from India’s Hindi-language cinema.<br />
Newton (2017) COMEDY<br />
A government clerk on election duty in the jungle<br />
tries to conduct fair voting despite the apathy of<br />
security forces and the fear of guerrilla attacks.<br />
Rajkummar Rao, Pankaj Tripathi, Anjali Patil.<br />
R, 106 mins. Director: Amit Masurkar.<br />
The Brawler (2017) ACTION<br />
Aspiring boxer Shravan works day and night to<br />
achieve his dream of becoming a professional.<br />
However, things go awry when he falls in love.<br />
Vineet Kumar Singh, Zoya Hussain. R, 154<br />
mins. Director: Anurag Kashyap.<br />
Blackmail (2018) ACTION<br />
When Dev finds out his wife is cheating on him,<br />
Blackmail<br />
Film<br />
Picks from<br />
Bollywood<br />
he secretly blackmails his wife and her lover as<br />
a form of revenge.<br />
Irrfan Khan, Kirti Kulhari. R, 138 mins. Director:<br />
Abhinay Deo.<br />
Almost Single (2017) COMEDY<br />
After reluctantly joining a dating app, a 35-yearold<br />
widow accompanies an easy-going poet on a<br />
trip to visit three of his exes.<br />
Irrfan Khan, Parvathy, Bajrangbali Singh. PG-13,<br />
125 mins. Director: Tanuja Chandra.<br />
“Long before<br />
me there was<br />
another Newton...<br />
I never understood<br />
what he meant<br />
while I was studying...<br />
but now<br />
while working I’ve<br />
understood it”<br />
Munna Michael (2017) MUSICAL<br />
A young man tries to follow in the footsteps of<br />
his idol, The King of Pop, Michael Jackson.<br />
Tiger Shroff. R, 140 mins. Director: Sabir Khan. – Newton –
70 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT / 71<br />
TV<br />
Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for<br />
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />
of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,<br />
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />
Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />
Spotlight on<br />
Van The<br />
Man<br />
Audio<br />
Friends<br />
Gillette World Sport<br />
Northern-Irish musician Van<br />
Morrison has touched copious<br />
hearts with his spellbinding music.<br />
With myriad hit songs, such as Brown<br />
Eyed Girl, Moondance, Someone Like You<br />
and Cyprus Avenue, Van Morrison has<br />
become a music legend. His second album,<br />
Astral Weeks, is regarded my most fans as<br />
his best work, and it’s considered in the<br />
industry to be one of the best albums of<br />
all time. Bruce Springsteen said that Astral<br />
Weeks gave him “a sense of the divine”.<br />
CNBC Conversation Fish Life 24: Live Another Day<br />
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />
biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />
Small Screen<br />
Programmes<br />
& Series<br />
We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />
Comedy<br />
The Big Bang Theory, Season 10, Episodes 9, 10, 11: A woman who moves<br />
into an apartment across the hall from two brilliant but socially awkward<br />
physicists shows them how little they know about life outside of the laboratory.<br />
Friends, Season 6, Episodes 5, 6, 7: This comedy hit follows the personal<br />
and professional lives of six friends living in New York.<br />
Fresh Prince Of Bel-Air, Season 2, Episodes 1, 2, 3: A streetwise young<br />
man from Philadelphia is sent by his mother to live with his aunt, uncle and<br />
cousins in their Bel-Air mansion.<br />
Sports<br />
Gillette World Sport, Season 1, Episode 9: A look at sports around the<br />
world.<br />
Super Bowl LII: The 2008 Super Bowl was one of the most sensational<br />
season finales in 52 years, setting several records.<br />
Pure Outdoor, Season 1, Episode 1: A look at the eco sports that people<br />
have now embraced in their leisure time.<br />
Pathfinders, Season 1, Episode 3: Pathfinders follows travellers who seek<br />
adventure and open spaces.<br />
Lifestyle<br />
Dreams Aquamarine: A film that promotes relaxation through the use of<br />
ocean colours and sounds.<br />
Spirited Traveller, Season 1, Episode 1: Chef Kiran Jethwa maps Indian<br />
cuisines and culture.<br />
Cities Turn Green, Season 1, Episode 3: Portraits of New York’s urban<br />
farmers.<br />
Discover<br />
Fish Life, Season 1, Episode 6: Witness the profusion of life that inhabits<br />
the world’s oceans.<br />
City Tour New York: Home to the Empire State Building, Times Square, the<br />
Statue of Liberty and other iconic sites, New York is a fast-paced, globally<br />
influential centre of art, culture, fashion and finance.<br />
News<br />
CNBC Conversation: Coverage of recent economic events.<br />
Real Economy: Real Economy hones in on the economic issues that impact<br />
our everyday lives.<br />
Lasting Legacy, Season 2, Episode 1: Lasting Legacy goes behind the<br />
scenes of some of Europe’s most successful family businesses, to find out<br />
just how family life and company strategy cross over.<br />
Drama<br />
Bones, Season 11, Episode 7, 8: Forensic anthropologist Dr. Temperance<br />
“Bones” Brennan and cocky FBI Special Agent Seeley Booth build a team to<br />
investigate murders. More often than not there isn’t much more to examine<br />
than rotten flesh and mere bones.<br />
24: Live Another Day, Season 9, Episodes 3, 4: Jack Bauer comes out of<br />
hiding in London to head off a massive terrorist attack while being hunted<br />
down by American forces dispatched by President James Heller.<br />
African Classics<br />
The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />
from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />
Jazz<br />
Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />
the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />
Pop<br />
Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most-loved<br />
pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />
Dance Hall/Reggae<br />
We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />
diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />
Classical<br />
Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />
awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />
Chinese Pop<br />
The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />
of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />
Easy Listening<br />
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />
sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />
Meditation<br />
Sit back, relax and de-stress to the ultimate<br />
meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />
“The first piece of music<br />
that captured my imagination<br />
was probably Ray Charles Live<br />
At Newport”<br />
– Van Morrison –<br />
Getty Images
72 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Kids<br />
Animation<br />
Teen Titans Go! To The Movies<br />
A villain’s maniacal plan<br />
for world domination<br />
side-tracks five teenage<br />
superheroes who dream<br />
of Hollywood stardom.<br />
With a few madcap ideas and<br />
a song in their heart, the Teen<br />
Titans head to Tinsel Town,<br />
certain to pull off their dream<br />
of starring in their own film.<br />
But when the group is radically<br />
misdirected by a super villain<br />
and his maniacal plan to take<br />
over the Earth, things really go<br />
awry. The team finds their<br />
friendship and their fighting<br />
spirit failing, putting the very<br />
fate of the Teen Titans themselves<br />
on the line.<br />
Greg Cipes, Scott Menville. PG, 88<br />
mins. Directors: Aaron Horvath,<br />
Peter Rida Michail<br />
Film and TV<br />
The Ones to Watch<br />
These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />
Happiness Is A Warm<br />
Blanket, Charlie Brown<br />
Linus is pushed to his limits when he<br />
learns Grandma is coming to visit.<br />
Austin Lux, Amanda Pace. G, 60<br />
mins. Directors: Frank Molieri,<br />
Andrew Beall<br />
Tom & Jerry (Classic)<br />
Tom, a grey-and-white cat is always<br />
trying to catch Jerry, a little brown<br />
mouse.<br />
Compilation<br />
Captain Planet And The<br />
Planeteers<br />
A quintet of teenagers work together<br />
to encourage environmentally<br />
responsible behaviour.<br />
Season 1, Episode 9<br />
The Flintstones<br />
The misadventures of a modern-day<br />
Stone Age family, The Flintstones.<br />
Season 1, Episode 15
SAFARI NJEMA / 75<br />
Saint Valentine of Rome, who<br />
was executed for performing<br />
weddings for soldiers, signed his<br />
farewell letter, “Your Valentine”.<br />
✈ To book flights to Gabon go to<br />
kenya-airways.com.<br />
Safari Njema<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Five Valentine<br />
Hotspots in New York<br />
1 Brooklyn Bridge<br />
provides great views of<br />
Manhattan as you<br />
walk across it on your<br />
way to your romantic<br />
dinner. It will also<br />
ensure that you have a<br />
good appetite.<br />
2 Frenchette<br />
is a very popular<br />
French restaurant<br />
that’s hard to get a<br />
table at before 10 p.m.,<br />
so if you want to impress<br />
your Valentine,<br />
book a month ahead.<br />
3 Blue Hill<br />
has a menu that’s<br />
based on seasonal<br />
crops grown at nearby<br />
farms; a sustainable<br />
choice for the environmentally<br />
conscious<br />
cupid.<br />
4 Westlight<br />
is a great rooftop bar<br />
in Williamsburg where<br />
you can enjoy cocktails<br />
and toast to the sweeping<br />
views of Queens,<br />
Manhattan and<br />
Brooklyn.<br />
5 Rockefeller Center<br />
provides a great activity<br />
for intrepid romantics:<br />
an outdoor ice-skating<br />
rink. Buy tickets in<br />
advance or just show<br />
up. The last session<br />
starts at 10.30 p.m.
Kenya Airways<br />
launched a carbon<br />
offset programme in<br />
2011, the first African<br />
airline to do so.<br />
News<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 77<br />
✈ Kenya Airways’ New York route<br />
requires 4 pilots and 12 flight<br />
attendants.<br />
The Flying Blue interview<br />
Company Man<br />
The Flying Blue Gold member and Senior Executive Director of Kenafric Industries<br />
Ltd. was on the recent inaugural non-stop flight to New York. While growing his<br />
business, Mayur Shah has spent countless hours in the sky with Kenya Airways.<br />
Mayur Kumar V. Shah<br />
Nationality<br />
Kenyan<br />
Profession<br />
Senior Executive Director of<br />
Kenafric Industries Ltd.: one of<br />
the largest home-grown and<br />
privately owned consumer goods<br />
makers in East Africa.<br />
What’s your personal story?<br />
I was born in Karatina as the youngest in<br />
a family of four brothers. My father came<br />
to Kenya from Gujarat, India, in search<br />
of greener pastures. After many years, he<br />
began a wholesale business. This is where<br />
I got my love for entrepreneurship. It<br />
runs in my blood. I’m passionate about<br />
positioning Kenafric as the leading<br />
household manufacturer of diverse<br />
consumer goods, from footwear and<br />
confectionery, to food and stationery.<br />
What does Kenya Airways mean to you?<br />
My relationship with Kenya Airways<br />
spans over 20 years. It’s my only solution<br />
when travelling to many destinations. A<br />
national symbol that’s true to its mantra:<br />
it is indeed the Pride of Africa.<br />
What examples do you have that<br />
illustrate this?<br />
Kenya Airways has been instrumental to<br />
the success of my business. The airline’s<br />
robust network has enabled us to penetrate<br />
many markets across Africa. We<br />
export to over 25 countries including<br />
the Democratic Republic of the Congo,<br />
Senegal, Mali, Uganda and, recently,<br />
Ghana.<br />
What keeps you coming back?<br />
The world-class service and care I receive<br />
on board. As a frequent flyer, the<br />
staff recognise me and make me feel<br />
appreciated. The warm, friendly African<br />
hospitality is something I experience<br />
whenever I travel with the airline.<br />
Why is the direct flight to New York so<br />
important to you?<br />
It’s a real game-changer as the fastest<br />
connection from East Africa to New<br />
York. At only 14-15 hours, I get to save<br />
time, which is key for a business traveller<br />
like me. It will also play a pivotal role in<br />
boosting our economy. I see immense<br />
trade opportunities for Kenya and New<br />
York. It will help push up tourist numbers<br />
and promote trade and investment<br />
in both regions.<br />
What makes you feel proud when<br />
travelling?<br />
As a country, we are already known for<br />
our famous game reserves like Maasai<br />
Mara, and our long-distance runners.<br />
Now we can add Kenya Airways to the<br />
list as the first airline in East Africa to<br />
offer non-stop flights to New York. This<br />
is something to be proud of: the feeling<br />
that I’m supporting and building Kenya<br />
whenever I travel the Pride of Africa.<br />
“Kenya Airways has been<br />
instrumental to the success<br />
of my business”<br />
What’s your most interesting travel<br />
encounter?<br />
Once, while travelling to Tanzania, I met<br />
a business mogul on board a Kenya<br />
Airways flight with whom I was able to<br />
close my first deal for Dar es Salaam!<br />
Other important people I have met include:<br />
Ted Turner, founder of CNN,<br />
and Frank and Dan Carney, founders<br />
of Pizza Hut. They helped me to establish<br />
the route I wanted to take in my<br />
career, which has since created a new<br />
destiny for my family and I. Finally, I<br />
must not forget the Kenya Airways crew,<br />
who light up my travels on every flight.
78 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Want to know the carbon<br />
emission of your flight?<br />
Visit climatecare.org<br />
and click on the<br />
carbon calculator.<br />
News<br />
✈ Kenya Airways now flies to<br />
Paris more often, with six direct<br />
flights each week.<br />
Leadership<br />
Mikosz Attends Key Meeting<br />
Group Managing Director and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian<br />
Mikosz joined other African aviation leaders for the 50th<br />
African Airlines Association (AFRAA) Annual General<br />
Assembly (AGA) and Summit on 25 and 26 November<br />
2018 in Rabat, Morocco.<br />
The AGA and summit is a high-profile air transport event<br />
dedicated to airline CEOs and invited top executives in the<br />
aviation industry. It brings together more aviation industry<br />
executives and principal decision-makers than any aviation<br />
event in Africa.<br />
Like any other annual general meeting, the event provided an<br />
opportunity for the sector’s leaders to deal with the most important<br />
issues, which include the trends, challenges and opportunities<br />
in Africa.<br />
Speaking during the CEOs’ roundtable, Mikosz said, “African<br />
airlines should not shy away from the high standards set out<br />
because it’s in high compliance that the African airlines will<br />
soar and thrive to even greater heights. Let’s not compromise<br />
on standards.”<br />
“I must not forget the<br />
Kenya Airways crew,<br />
who light up my travels<br />
on every flight”<br />
Farming<br />
Grafting For<br />
Better Yields<br />
In southeastern Kenya, low and unpredictable rainfall<br />
has caused consistently poor agricultural yields and<br />
negatively affected local communities who rely on<br />
subsistence farming.<br />
Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon offsetting partner,<br />
carries out training with communities living in the Kasigau<br />
Corridor in Tsavo using alternative crops that are better adapted<br />
to growing in low rainfall. As part of this, Wildlife Works has<br />
been grafting fruit seedlings since 2004.<br />
Grafting involves joining a scion of a desired high-yield plant<br />
onto a root stock seedling of a drought-resistant local variety.<br />
Grafted seedlings produce high-quality and fast-maturing<br />
plants, and provide tremendous opportunities for small-scale<br />
farmers to enhance their incomes. Wildlife Works demonstrates<br />
the grafting process to local community groups and school<br />
groups (among others), and is proud to support farmers in<br />
increasing yields, reducing the reliance on food aid and<br />
empowering Kenyans to support their families financially.<br />
− Mayur Shah −<br />
Flying Blue Gold member<br />
~ Offset your carbon With your Kenya Airways flight you can help to<br />
protect the environment. Simply tick a box when booking to offset<br />
carbon emissions per journey. Funds go to initiatives in conjunction<br />
with Wildlife Works. Visit wildlifeworks.com to find out more.
80 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 81<br />
About 80 percent of<br />
Somalia’s population are<br />
pastoralists.<br />
News<br />
✈ To book your flight to<br />
Mogadishu go to jambojet.com<br />
How many Miles did you<br />
earn while flying to your<br />
current destination? Find out<br />
online with the Flying Blue<br />
Miles Calculator.<br />
Flying Blue<br />
✈ There are new discounted award<br />
tickets, or Promo Awards, available<br />
every month, saving you up<br />
to 50 percent on Award Miles.<br />
Expansion<br />
Cargo Flights Begin to The US<br />
Kenya Airways’ inaugural cargo flight to New York’s John F.<br />
Kennedy International Airport from Jomo Kenyatta International<br />
Airport in Nairobi took place on 1 December paving<br />
the way for increased trade between the two countries.<br />
“We have gone through the entire regulatory clearances with<br />
the TSA [Transport Security Authority], and we have been<br />
engaging our customers on the potential. So if I look at the<br />
demand in the pipeline, my worry now is that payload may<br />
become an issue, but the demand is certainly there,” said<br />
Commercial Manager Cargo Kenya Airways Peter Musola in<br />
an NTV Kenya news report.<br />
CEO Kenya Private Sector Alliance Carole Kariuki added, “A<br />
lot of our products – horticultural flowers – have gone through<br />
Europe and that is time lost. Remember, these are perishable<br />
goods, so it means a lot more cost working on all manner of<br />
technology to preserve them. This shortens all of that, meaning<br />
more traffic of our products this way and more fresh products<br />
that would come to the US market from Kenya.”<br />
“The Pride of<br />
Africa flies to<br />
53 destinations<br />
worldwide”<br />
− Sebastian Mikosz −<br />
Group Managing Director and<br />
CEO Kenya Airways<br />
Service improvements<br />
Select Your<br />
Seat<br />
Kenya Airways has introduced a seat selection option<br />
in Economy Class, meaning that guests can now<br />
reserve a Preferred Seat or Extra Legroom Seat and<br />
enjoy a little more comfort for a small fee.<br />
Preferred Seats, which are closer to the front of the aircraft,<br />
allow customers to disembark quicker, while the Extra Legroom<br />
Seats offer a little more comfort than the rest of the Economy<br />
Class cabin.<br />
“We want to provide a choice of seat selection to enhance the<br />
travel experience of those who prefer extra comfort, or being<br />
seated in the front part of the Economy Class cabin for easy<br />
access to the exit points,” said Group Managing Director and<br />
CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian Mikosz.<br />
This product is available on all Kenya Airways-operated<br />
flights. Guests can now purchase their seats any time before<br />
departure on our website – Kenya-airways.com – or any of<br />
our sales outlets.<br />
Kenya Airways flies to 43 destinations in Africa and carries over<br />
4 million passengers annually. The Pride of Africa flies to 53<br />
destinations worldwide. The airline continues to modernise its<br />
fleet with its 32 aircraft being some of the youngest in Africa.<br />
Membership levels<br />
Redeem<br />
Your<br />
Miles!<br />
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />
Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways, Air France,<br />
KLM, Joon, HOP!, Transavia, Aircalin, TAROM, SkyTeam,<br />
or other airline partners. You can redeem your Miles to fly with<br />
Kenya Airways or upgrade your seats to Business Class.<br />
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue, and with each qualifying<br />
flight you take, you gain XP (Experience Points). When you first enrol,<br />
you will be awarded Explorer status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and<br />
ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with Kenya Airways or one of<br />
our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in you<br />
earning more Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />
Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations operated by Kenya<br />
Airways or our partner airlines. Go for an upgrade, a seat with more<br />
legroom or an “a la carte” feast with your Miles. Pay for your hotel stay<br />
or car rental with Miles. Your accumulated Miles are valid for life as long<br />
as you take an eligible flight at least once every two years. The total number<br />
of Miles credited to your account on Kenya Airways-marketed flights is<br />
based on distance, the booking class earning percentage, and the Elite<br />
bonus earning percentage, if applicable.<br />
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />
1<br />
Exchange<br />
Reward Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />
Business Class.<br />
2<br />
Check<br />
Your choice of destination determines the<br />
number of Miles required for your Reward ticket.<br />
Log on to flyingblue.com to check if you have<br />
sufficient Miles for your choice. It is advisable<br />
to have flexible date options in case your initial<br />
choice is not available.<br />
3<br />
Redeem<br />
Once you have made your choice, you can<br />
redeem your Award Miles by two methods:<br />
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in Nairobi<br />
on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />
or +254 711 024747.<br />
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to Loyalty Program,<br />
Flying Blue, Earn and Spend.<br />
For further information, you can always contact us at<br />
kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />
4<br />
Tax<br />
Reward Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />
will need to be paid for separately and this can be<br />
done so via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment<br />
at any Kenya Airways office.<br />
5<br />
Easy Does It<br />
Five steps to make<br />
the most of your Miles.<br />
Ticket<br />
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />
will be sent to you by email.<br />
~ Reward tickets are subject to seat availability. The<br />
number of Miles required varies depending on available<br />
booking class.<br />
~ Miles can be used for flights and for upgrades to<br />
Business Class when you have already purchased<br />
an Economy Class Kenya Airways ticket on<br />
Y,B,M,U,K,H,L,Q,T,R,N & V classes for all routes. All<br />
upgrades are subject to seat availability in Business Class.
SkyTeam operates more than<br />
17,000 departures a day to 1,080<br />
destinations in 177 countries, and<br />
offers SkyTeam members 750<br />
lounges in airports worldwide.<br />
SkyTeam<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 83<br />
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a<br />
major airline alliance that consists of 20<br />
carriers from 5 continents.<br />
<strong>2019</strong><br />
Another Exciting Year<br />
for SkyTeam<br />
January is a month to start afresh<br />
and look ahead, so we’ve decided<br />
to reveal just a little of what you<br />
can expect from SkyTeam and its<br />
member airlines in <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
This month, Garuda Indonesia celebrates<br />
70 years in the sky, while Xiamen<br />
Air becomes 35 in July. In <strong>2019</strong>, Korean<br />
Air turns 50, China Airlines becomes<br />
60, Air France and Aeromexico both<br />
reach 85 and KLM, one of the world’s<br />
longest-operating airlines, will celebrate<br />
its centenary in October. As for Sky-<br />
Team, we turn 19 on 22 June.<br />
Anniversaries aside, there are plenty<br />
more developments to look forward to<br />
in the coming months. Customers flying<br />
with Middle East Airlines from Beirut<br />
will be among the first to see its brandnew<br />
airport expansion; keep an eye out<br />
for updates as we countdown to the<br />
grand opening.<br />
SkyTeam launched its very first lounge<br />
in London’s Heathrow Airport in 2009,<br />
so this year marks our 10th year of<br />
lounges, and the good news is that we<br />
have no plans to slow down; in fact,<br />
we’re adding more! This year will see<br />
brand-new facilities open in Santiago<br />
and Istanbul New Airport, giving you<br />
more opportunities than ever to work,<br />
call loved ones or simply unwind before<br />
your flight.<br />
Elsewhere, Air Europa will give customers<br />
more choice and add two new routes<br />
to its offering: Panama from February<br />
and Iguazu from June. The airline will<br />
also grow its fleet with five new Boeing<br />
787-9s and its first three Boeing 737<br />
MAXs.<br />
They’re not the only ones: China Eastern<br />
Airlines and Aeromexico will also sign<br />
for new aircraft. And the latter has rolled<br />
out a carefully crafted new menu for<br />
Business Class customers on Europebound<br />
flights.<br />
~ This is only a taste of what’s to come this year,<br />
follow us on Instagram @skyteamalliance on<br />
Facebook @SkyTeam or visit skyteam.com.
84 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 85<br />
Global Network<br />
Kenya Airways Fleet<br />
UNITED<br />
STATES<br />
London<br />
GREAT-BRITAIN<br />
THE NETHERLANDS<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Paris<br />
FRANCE<br />
Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />
New York<br />
SENEGAL<br />
Dakar<br />
Bamako<br />
Freetown<br />
SIERRA LEONE<br />
Monrovia<br />
LIBERIA<br />
MALI<br />
COTE<br />
BENIN<br />
Abuja<br />
D'IVOIRE<br />
GHANA<br />
Lagos<br />
Abidjan<br />
Accra<br />
Cotonou<br />
NIGERIA<br />
Djibouti<br />
DJIBOUTI<br />
CENTRAL<br />
SOUTH SUDAN<br />
ETHIOPIA<br />
CAMEROON<br />
AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />
Juba<br />
Douala<br />
Yaoundé<br />
Bangui<br />
UGANDA<br />
KENYA<br />
Entebbe/Kampala<br />
Libreville<br />
Kisumu<br />
GABON<br />
Kigali<br />
NAIROBI<br />
RWANDA<br />
Brazzaville<br />
DEMOCRATIC<br />
REPUBLIC OF<br />
Bujumbura<br />
Kilimanjaro<br />
Mombasa<br />
Kinshasa<br />
THE CONGO<br />
BURUNDI<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Luanda<br />
SUDAN<br />
Khartoum<br />
Addis<br />
Ababa<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
SOMALIA<br />
UNITED<br />
ARAB<br />
EMIRATES<br />
Dubai<br />
Mahé<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
Moroni/COMOROS<br />
ANGOLA<br />
Lubumbashi<br />
MALAWI<br />
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />
Ndola<br />
Lilongwe<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
Lusaka<br />
Blantyre<br />
Nampula<br />
Livingstone<br />
Victoria Harare<br />
Falls<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
Antananarivo<br />
MAURITIUS<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
Mumbai<br />
INDIA<br />
Bangkok<br />
THAILAND<br />
CHINA<br />
Guangzhou<br />
Boeing 737-800<br />
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />
Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
Johannesburg<br />
Maputo<br />
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />
SOUTH<br />
AFRICA<br />
Cape Town<br />
Embraer 190<br />
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m
86 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 87<br />
The Nairobi National Park<br />
stopover package allows guests<br />
travelling on flight KQ101 from<br />
London Heathrow to enjoy a<br />
wildlife tour during their transit.<br />
Welcome to Kenya<br />
✈ Passengers travelling in<br />
a group of at least ten<br />
(economy cabin) or five<br />
(business cabin), can<br />
request for a group fare.<br />
SOUTH-<br />
SUD A N<br />
E T HIOPIA<br />
Practical tips<br />
Getty Images<br />
Getting around<br />
On Arrival<br />
TO THE CITY<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />
VISA<br />
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />
the moment of entry.<br />
Health<br />
Emergency services<br />
Dial 999. Note that<br />
ambulance services are<br />
mostly private. Services<br />
include: St Johns<br />
Ambulance +254 72 161<br />
1555 or Kenya Red<br />
Cross Ambulance<br />
+254 71 771 4938.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Nairobi and Mombasa<br />
have good hospitals.<br />
Medical expenses<br />
Make sure you have<br />
adequate travel health<br />
insurance and accessible<br />
funds to cover the cost of<br />
any medical treatment.<br />
Consultations and<br />
treatments will have to<br />
be paid for at the time,<br />
and the costs claimed<br />
back later.<br />
General<br />
Voltage<br />
240 volts AC, using<br />
three-square-pin,<br />
13-amp-type plugs.<br />
Security<br />
It is advisable not to walk<br />
alone in isolated areas<br />
in towns or on beaches,<br />
particularly after dark.<br />
Tipping<br />
Tips are appreciated. Most<br />
hotels/restaurants add a<br />
10 percent service charge.<br />
Water<br />
It is wise to drink or use<br />
only boiled or bottled water,<br />
and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />
Self-drive<br />
Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />
side of the road, and<br />
most cars are right-hand<br />
drive. A current driving<br />
licence with photograph is<br />
accepted for up to a threemonth<br />
stay.<br />
Public transport<br />
Nairobi is the only city with<br />
an effective municipal bus<br />
What & How<br />
service. Local (private)<br />
matatus are the main<br />
means of getting around.<br />
Taxi service Uber operates<br />
in Nairobi and Mombasa.<br />
Photography<br />
Taking photographs of<br />
official buildings, including<br />
embassies, can lead to<br />
detention. Photography is<br />
also prohibited at airports.<br />
Embassies & consulates<br />
All embassies are<br />
located in Nairobi.<br />
ID<br />
You must carry a valid form<br />
of ID with you at all times.<br />
Post office<br />
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />
Telephone/internet<br />
Phone cards may be<br />
bought from post offices<br />
or international call<br />
offices. Emails can be sent<br />
from most hotels.<br />
Money matters<br />
Currency<br />
Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />
Currency regulations<br />
There are no restrictions on<br />
the movement of currency<br />
into or out of Kenya for<br />
currency transactions.<br />
Banking<br />
Banks are generally open<br />
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays;<br />
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />
Saturdays. Banks in<br />
coastal towns open<br />
and close half an hour<br />
earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />
international VISA cards.<br />
Credit cards<br />
Visa and MasterCard are<br />
widely accepted.<br />
Hotel bill payment<br />
Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />
convertible currency.<br />
Most hotels also accept<br />
credit cards.<br />
Gulu<br />
UGA N D A<br />
Lokichokio<br />
Sibiloi<br />
Central<br />
National<br />
Songot 1755 m Island<br />
Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Namoratunga<br />
Muruasigar<br />
Stones<br />
2149 m<br />
LAKE<br />
TURKANA<br />
Lodwar<br />
Nasolot<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Maralal<br />
Saiwa<br />
National<br />
Matthew’s Peak<br />
Swamp<br />
Sanctuary<br />
2375 m<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Kaisungua<br />
Maralal<br />
Reserve<br />
Kitale<br />
3167 m<br />
Samburu<br />
National<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
Kerio Valley<br />
Reserve<br />
Shaba National<br />
4322 m<br />
National Reserve<br />
Reserve<br />
ELDORET<br />
Archer’s Post<br />
LAKE BARING O<br />
Kakamega<br />
Buffalo Springs<br />
Forest Reserve<br />
Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />
National<br />
Meru<br />
Reserve<br />
National Reserve<br />
National<br />
Kakamega<br />
Park<br />
Ndere Island<br />
Nanyuki<br />
National Park<br />
KISUMU<br />
Meru<br />
Mt Londiani<br />
Rusinga Island<br />
Kericho<br />
3000 m<br />
North<br />
Nakuru<br />
Mt Kenya<br />
Kitu<br />
Lake Nakuru<br />
5199 m<br />
National<br />
Mfangango<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Nyerri<br />
Embu<br />
Reserve<br />
Island<br />
Kisii<br />
Muranga’a Mwea<br />
Ruma<br />
Hell’s Gate<br />
National<br />
LAKE<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
VICTORIA<br />
Longonot National Park<br />
Thika<br />
Migori<br />
Narok<br />
NAIROBI<br />
Oi Donyo National Park<br />
Masai Mara<br />
Nairobi<br />
National Reserve<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Chantal van Wessel<br />
TA NZANIA<br />
South<br />
Turkana<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
South<br />
Island<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
LAKE<br />
MAGADI<br />
Shompole<br />
Conservancy<br />
CHALBI DESERT<br />
Loiyangalani<br />
Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />
OFFICES & AGENTS<br />
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />
Kajiado<br />
West<br />
Chyulu Game<br />
Conservation<br />
Area<br />
Amboseli<br />
National Park<br />
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Losai<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Marsabit<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Tsavo West<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
K ENYA<br />
Tsavo<br />
East<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Voi<br />
Kora<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Moyale<br />
Rahole<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Mwaluganje<br />
Elephant<br />
Sanctuary<br />
Shimba Hills<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Garissa<br />
MOMBASA<br />
Wajir<br />
Tana River<br />
Primate National<br />
Reserve<br />
Malka Mari<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Arabuko<br />
Malindi Marine<br />
Sokoke<br />
National Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Malindi<br />
Watamu Marine<br />
National Park<br />
Diani<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Boni<br />
National<br />
Arawale Reserve<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Dodori<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
SOMALIA<br />
INDIAN<br />
OCEAN<br />
100 km
SAFARI NJEMA / 89<br />
<br />
Cargo<br />
Very Important Pet<br />
Golden Ticket<br />
On board the maiden direct fiight<br />
from New York to Nairobi was a<br />
very special guest with a sky-high<br />
cuteness factor: a Goldendoodle<br />
puppy!<br />
Louie made the journey in cargo thanks<br />
to the joint efforts of Kenya Airways,<br />
Avia Cargo and The ARK at JFK's Pet<br />
Oasis. A cross between a Golden Retriever<br />
and Poodle, Louie was bred in Alabama<br />
and was on his way to his new home in<br />
Kenya.<br />
Delivered directly to the aircraft in time<br />
for the inaugural flight last October, Louie<br />
received the VIP experience. He was safely<br />
loaded and secured in the aircraft's temperature-controlled<br />
and pressurised cargo<br />
hold, where he rested during the trip. The<br />
doors opened in Nairobi, and Louie was<br />
carefully unloaded. After a veterinary<br />
inspection and a breeze through customs,<br />
he was united with his owner, who was<br />
pleased to see him in such good spirits,<br />
"I couldn't believe how happy, clean and<br />
excited he was after a 15-hour flight!" she<br />
says. "It not only makes me want to teil<br />
the world to trust how amazing Kenya<br />
Airways is, hut makes me confident to<br />
take Kenya Airways to JFK myself."<br />
Louie is just the first of many animals<br />
that are now able enjoy the ultra longhaul<br />
journey in comfort and safety.<br />
Kenya Airways is committed to providing<br />
the best possible travel experience for<br />
animals in transit. "KQ Live is our safe<br />
and caring service for the transportation<br />
of animals," says Boniface Mugugu,<br />
Cargo Sales Manager Kenya Airways<br />
(KQ). "We offer continuous care for<br />
animals by specially trained staff before,<br />
during and after flights."<br />
KQ Live is available to all Kenya Airways<br />
destinations. As well as accompanied and<br />
unaccompanied pets, wild animals (such<br />
as rescued monkeys in the care of wildlife<br />
associations) are also allowed to travel.<br />
As live animals are the first item to<br />
come out of the aircraft upon arrival,<br />
both pets and wild animals are loaded<br />
last and kept next to the entrance, where<br />
off-loading time is at a minimum. In<br />
most cases, a vet is present before take<br />
off and on arrival as an extra measure.<br />
This is sometimes necessary for wild<br />
animals.<br />
Kenya Airways strictly adheres to a failsafe<br />
process that helps to prevent the<br />
illegal traflicking of wildlife, particularly<br />
endangered species. A dedicated sales<br />
and customer service team attend to all<br />
questions or concerns, and information<br />
about anima! shipments is available via a<br />
track and trace system on the website<br />
after flight departure.
90 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
KQ won the Best<br />
Business Class in<br />
Africa for five years<br />
in a row from World<br />
Travel Awards.<br />
Get Comfortable<br />
✈ KQ received an International<br />
Safety Award in 2016 and 2017<br />
from the British Safety Council.<br />
What you need to know<br />
Flight Mode<br />
Safety<br />
Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />
and mobile phones may not be used during<br />
take-off and landing.<br />
Hand luggage<br />
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />
will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />
meal and take some gentle exercise<br />
before your flight.<br />
Travel<br />
On The Move<br />
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />
3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />
up and walking in the aisle when<br />
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />
shoulders and neck.<br />
4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />
“To get lost is to<br />
learn the way”<br />
– African proverb –<br />
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />
drink plenty of water and moderate<br />
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />
5 When travelling across time zones<br />
your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />
some time to adjust to new night and<br />
day cycles when you arrive.<br />
6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />
possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />
body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />
Seat adjustments<br />
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />
landing.<br />
Infants<br />
Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />
Inflight service<br />
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />
are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />
spirits and soft drinks.<br />
Entertainment<br />
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />
movies and music is available on our long- and<br />
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />
guide in Msafiri.<br />
Take-off<br />
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />
a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />
during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />
Landing<br />
After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />
to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />
engines are off and the doors are open.