October - 2019

kenyaairwaysltd

October Issue 2019

ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 5

“So, if you want to travel

to the US, now is a great

time to do so”

Photo: Mir Lenz/@nycafterdark


Kenya Airways’ World

Travel Awards

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:

2016, 2017

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,

Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,

2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,

Economy Class: 2011, 2018, 2019

Dear guests,

This month marks the first anniversary

of our Nairobi to New York route,

which became a major milestone for

Kenya Airways when our non-stop,

long-haul service departed from

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport

to touch down at John F. Kennedy

International Airport. Thanks to our

recent code share agreement with Delta

Airlines, we’ve added efficient onward

connections – from New York City to

various domestic airports – to this great

service. So, if you want to travel to the

US, now is a great time to do so.

Although many people travel to New

York during summer, autumn is arguably

the best time to visit. The high

temperatures have given way to cooler

weather, beautiful autumn foliage

adorns the city’s many parks, and key

annual events such as Archtober – a

monthlong architecture and design

festival – take place. Don’t miss our

travel story, which gives you the lowdown

on the Big Apple at this time of

the year.

Sustainability is a key theme at Kenya

Airways, and we’re proud to publish a

report on solar-powered innovations

that are boosting local economies

and saving lives in rural Sub-Saharan

Africa. In a Ugandan hospital, for

example, a solar-powered oxygen

concentrator is providing a steady,

round-the-clock supply of oxygen,

which is an essential, lifesaving resource.

And in Kenya, solar power is being

used to modernise the agricultural sector

by reducing the cost and increasing

the output of irrigation systems.

Sustainability is also the theme of our

people story this month. We profile

leading conservationists who are

battling to protect Africa’s wildlife

and parks. For instance, Thandiwe

Mweetwa, who works for the Zambian

Carnivore Programme, engages with local

communities about human-animal

conflicts, while running a programme

to educate young people about conservation.

Read all about her story and

more in this month’s issue of Msafiri.

Thank you for choosing Kenya

Airways, I wish you an enjoyable flight,

Sebastian Mikosz,

Group Managing Director and

CEO Kenya Airways

Image: Jeroen van Loon


CONTENTS / 7

Travel & Nature

10 Worthy of Its Salt

Lake Assal in Djibouti

18 Travel Essentials

Packing for New York

20 Adventure Capital

Jinja in Uganda

47 Table Mountain

Travel tips

48 Falling for New York

Autumn in the Big Apple

54

48

Arts & Culture

13 Habari

Kenya & the world

30 Book Review

How To Speak Human

32 Natural Heroes

Leading conservationists

54 The Fabric of Society

The Maasai shuka

Publisher Kenya Airways | Director of Communications and Public Affairs Dennis Kashero Head of Content Development Rehema Kahurananga Corporate Communications Executive

Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | CEO Hearst

Netherlands Luc van Os | Director Hearst Create Lieneke van den Heuvel | Content Director Irene Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Service Director

Erik-Jan Sanders Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Yvette Bax, Hanae

Benjnouh, Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Andrea Dijkstra, Emma van Egmond, Nicole Franzen, Ester Gebuis, Shalini Gidoomal, Annemarie Hoeve, Sarah Khan, Sioe Sin Khoe, Richard Koek,

Nikolas Koenig, Annette Lavrijsen, Mir Lenz, Dewi Leming, Jeroen van Loon, Liz Ng’ang’a, Gijsje Ribbens, Kristel Steenbergen, The Life Traveller, Eva de Vries, Wendy Watta, Chantal van

Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland


8 / CONTENTS

Fly Guide

61 Highlights

Inflight entertainment guide

71 Safari Njema

News & service

77 Flying Blue News

79 SkyTeam News

80 Route Maps

85 Cargo

86 Get Comfortable

20

Business

44

31 Aircraft Facts

The fuselage

38 Solar System

Solar-powered solutions

42 DRC

At a glance

44 Going Bananas

Is the banana going extinct?

Contact details Kenya Airways Communications & Public Affairs, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.com

Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @KenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734

271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Moermanskkade 500, 1013 BC Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 5353942, Website hearstcreate.nl.

No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, Hearst and Kenya Airways assume no

responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights

and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.


10 / NATURE / Views

NATURE / 11

Worthy of

Its Salt

While bathing in the

Dead Sea is on almost

every bucket list,

there’s a superior

option out there: the

lesser-known LAKE

ASSAL in Djibouti.

text Emma van Egmond

AT FIRST, Lake Assal appears to

be a tropical expanse of azure water

surrounded by dazzling white sand. But

as you get closer, you discover that the

crater lake is enclosed by crispy salt.

Due to high evaporation and no

outflow, salt levels in the lake’s waters

are very high. A salinity of 34.8 percent

– nearly ten times that of ocean water –

makes Lake Assal one of the most saline

bodies of water in the world, outranking

even the Dead Sea. If you step foot in

the lake, you’ll feel your body become

very buoyant, so get ready to float! But

beware: although floating in Lake Assal

is a one-of-a-kind experience, it’s not

suitable for the faint-hearted. The area

is notorious for being one of the hottest

places on Earth, with temperatures

ranging from 34°C in winter to 52°C in

summer.

If floating in salty water isn’t your

thing, you can walk along the trail next

to the lake, which leads to the top of

Ardoukoba, a fissure vents volcano that

has only erupted once (in 1978), and

was dormant for 3,000 years before that.

The views up there are breathtaking.

Only two hours by car from the

capital, Djibouti City, this spectacular

and unique natural phenomenon is also

an incredible salt reserve that serves as

an important source of income for the

local population.

Kenya Airways operates direct flights to Djibouti-

Ambouli International Airport from Nairobi’s

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.

Alamy


120

Kenya is home to the

fastest land animal,

the cheetah, which

has achieved speeds

of up to 120 km per

hour.

Habari

HABARI / 13

The rock-hewn churches

of Lalibela in Ethiopia

were not constructed

from the ground up, they

were chiseled out of

volcanic rock.

Cultural identity

Dialogue

through Art

Namibian creative photographer

Merja Iileka, alias Tuva Wolf,

specialises in conceptual fashion

photography. Her primary

mission, as she sees it, is to

empower other creatives and

use visual platforms to provoke

discussions: “The idea is to get

to the centre of who we are as

a people and to discover ways

of celebrating our existence

as Africans.” Tuva’s work has

appeared in art galleries,

on billboards, and in online

magazines and newspapers.

~ Instagram: @tuvawolf


14 / HABARI

HABARI / 15

Madagascar was only colonised

by human settlers around

AD500, approx. 300,000 years

after the first appearance of

homo sapiens in Africa.

Nairobi

The bare-legged Scops Owl,

or Syer, is one of the rare

species of birds that can be

found in the Seychelles.

During the Great Migration, more

than 1.5 million wildebeest, zebra

and gazelle make their way through

the grasslands of Tanzania and

Kenya in search of pasture.

Body & Soul

The average outside

temperature during

a flight is -54˚C.

Hot spot

Blue Door

They say the concept – high ceilings, rustic feel, small submarine-like

windows, open spaces, rivets on steel – is inspired by

a train, but it looks more like the Titanic. It’s the hottest thing

in town, and it has a large beer garden. It also has an upstairs

VIP bottle-service section featuring deep leather seats, a sexy

bar and large windows overlooking the Westlands metropolis.

It’s a large chic space designed to impress, but also to serve.

~ thegoodearthgroup.com/blue-door

Treat yourself

Refinery Grooming

Every man wants to look good: get a haircut, maybe do his nails.

A facial, even. Why not? Definitely a massage. Thanks to Refinery

Grooming, he can do so in a manly cave with solid colours and

impeccable service. Better still, he will find a TV remote control

nearby, along with a glass of bourbon.

~ refinerygrooming.com

xxx

New

Herbs &

Spices

Restaurant

Nairobi Serena has been doing

some amazing makeovers;

knocking down walls and

creating a modern hotel with

some vitality for these modern

times. They recently launched

a new Pan-Asian restaurant

called Herbs & Spices on their

ground floor. It’s in a lovely

courtyard of sorts featuring

natural colour palettes and a

rustic wooden finish. Go there

to eat and relax.

~ serenahotels.com

Co-working space

Pallet Cafe

It’s opposite Lavington Mall

and it’s a space for people who

just want a place for a day or a

month to get some work done

without worrying about the

headaches that come with a

temporary office. The trick is

that it’s cheap: as low as

US$10 a day. For that you get

a chair, a desk, wifi, and silence

as it’s under trees and in a

garden. You can also have

great meals here, and they’re

planning to start showing films

from a big projector soon.

~ palletcafe.co.ke

If you’re

filled with pride,

you won’t

have room for

wisdom

– African proverb –

Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko

Habari text: Eva de Vries

MauriceAscani Jetline Action Photo

Marathon

Run for Your Life

This year, the Soweto Marathon, also

known as the “People’s Race”, will be

run for the 26th time, inviting sports

enthusiasts from South Africa and

beyond to participate in the 42.2-km,

21.1-km or 10-km races. This spectacular

event will take place on 3 November

in the vibrant, historical township of

Soweto, just outside the centre of

Johannesburg.

~ sowetomarathon.com

Design

Prints Charming

Primrose Chimhanda,

a designer who’s based in

Cape Town, specialises in

the creation of eco-friendly

textiles and homewares,

featuring her unique prints.

~ primrosecharmz.com

Niger-based architecture studio Atelier Masomi develops innovative

solutions tailored to the needs of communities, while exploring new ways

to adapt local techniques. The new Dandaji Market in rural Niger, for

example, was designed to provide the inhabitants with a larger, more

permanent market. In this case, individual shading structures compensate

for the difficulty in growing trees in such a dry, desert climate.

~ ateliermasomi.com

Human solutions

Tradition Meets Innovation

Q&A

Mzukisi

Mbane

After deciding that accountancy was not

his thing, South African self-taught fashion

designer Mzukisi Mbane followed his passion

and launched lifestyle brand Imprint.

Msafiri chats with him about his work.

You have a degree in accounting. Why did you become

a fashion designer?

I always say fashion chose me. Following my

accounting studies, I decided to take a gap year to

find out what I really wanted to do. I started to

play with my mum’s old sewing machine and that’s

how it started. It’s in my blood, though. My mum

used to sew and so did my grandmother. I think I

was born with the skill.

Tell us about your designs.

My designs are always about pushing boundaries.

I love to work with an afrofuturistic aesthetic and I

want to tell the African story. My dream is to build

a brand that will survive on its own in places I

never knew it would go. I want African fashion to

not only be a trend, but also be the everyday norm.

What is your advice for other aspiring entrepreneurs?

Before you start, try and understand who you truly

are. You need to know exactly what you want to

communicate with your designs or other products.

An authentic brand identity goes a long way!

~ imprintza.co.za


16 / HABARI

HABARI / 17

Some species of the Baobab

tree can live for 1,000 years or

longer. The oldest one, found in

South Africa, is believed to be

6,000 years old.

Column

Uganda has 6.8

percent of the

world’s butterfly

species.

Mount Karisimbi, an inactive

volcano in the Virunga Mountains,

is the highest mountain in Rwanda,

rising to a height of 4,507 m above

sea level.

Arts & Culture

Kenya’s Lamu island,

located off the east coast,

is car-free.

Room with a view

Nesting in The Wild

Built alongside a river full of wildlife, the Nay Palad Bird Nest

offers guests the chance to nest and sleep like a bird, with a

360-degree, bird’s eye view of the surrounding wilderness. You

can enjoy a magical sunset, a picnic-style dinner and then fall

asleep under the stars. You’ll wake up the next morning to the

magical sounds of elephants playing on the pristine river

banks.

~ segera.com/nay-palad-bird-nest

I’m writing this from a holiday spot in Mombasa. (Sand,

palm trees, etc.) Before I came up to the room to write this

piece, my daughter – who was lying on the lounger next to me

by the pool, face engulfed by smartphone – asked suspiciously,

“Where are you going?”

“I’m going to write,” I said, a little too defensively for an

industrious father.

“You’re always writing,” she replied, still hidden by her

phone. I wanted to say, “That’s because you guys are always

eating.” But, I didn’t because I’m told that everything you say

to a child will somehow grow like bacteria and manifest in their

teenage years in whatever form. One thing I’ve learnt about

children – mine and the ones at this resort – is that they’re

always eating. Hordes of waiters are constantly balancing

platefuls of food and drinks – the pool area looking like an

international flight path during high season – that are promptly

devoured by these children. “Papa, can we have chips; Papa,

what time is lunch; Papa do they sell pizza here?” they will ask.

And, they will exclaim “Papa, I’m hungry!” ad infinitum.

The age gap between my children doesn’t help: my daughter

is 11 and my son is 5. The government tells us to stagger the

birth of our children wisely, and I can tell you that 11 and 5 is a

bad idea. This is because it’s like raising a wolf and a sparrow

in the same home. The girl is a preteen, so she’s already keeping

secrets and she acts like she doesn’t belong on Earth. The boy,

on the other hand, can’t stay still, and he can’t stop talking

either. Plus, I have to wipe his bum whenever he goes for a

number two. There should be a support group for anybody

who wipes their child’s bum twice a day for more than five days

because, at this frequency, the effect on one’s psyche is profound;

I’m starting to think that my son performs this biological function

to punish me for something I’ve done. He picks the most

inconsiderate times, such as when I’m by the pool, deep into my

book, and to top it off, he stands in my sun while breaking the

news. “Number one or number two?” I’ll say, squinting up at

him in fear. He’ll hold up his two fingers, of course. I’ll toss the

Jackson Biko

Rarely Number One

Kindle aside in a display of disgust. For anyone else, this hand

gesture means peace, but for me it means “violence”.

The other problem with children who are separated by a

large age gap is their differing desires: they never want the same

things. When my son wants to swim, my daughter wants to walk

barefoot on the beach. Nobody cares what I want to do, or even

if I’m hungry. I envy my friends who I’m here with. They have

two sons, aged 12 and 10, which means they run off to do things

together and their dad just lies there with his eyes closed. They

could get on a dhow and sail to India, and he would only notice

days later when we’re checking out. His wife cares even less. She

lies under a parasol, occasionally hydrating through a straw.

“‘Number one or number

two?’ I’ll say, squinting

up at him in fear”

Mind you, while they’re on holiday here, it’s his turn to mind the

kids. You’d imagine that my daughter and his son, who are in

the same age group, would get along, right? Nope. She regards

him like she regards my dress sense: with disdain.

I have two more days to go and quite honestly, I’m ready

to cut this holiday short and go back to Nairobi. I’m tired, I

look miserable, my nose is peeling and my phone has just

vibrated with a message. It’s probably the 11-year-old. She

probably wants something to eat. Or, perhaps it’s her brother

who wants me to wipe his bum. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I

have to go be a dad.

Illustration: Hannah Wieslander

Festival

Afro-Latin

Dance

On the western side of the

continent is the amazing

Nigeria Afro-Latin Music &

Dance Festival (14 to 17 November).

The event will offer

cultural exchange, workshops

and dance performances from

Nigeria, Togo, Kenya, Ghana,

Benin, Spain and the UK.

~ afrolatinfestivals.com

©Hufton+Crow

Museum

African Showcase

The Zeitz Museum of

Contemporary Art Africa in

Cape Town deserves a visit

not only for its beautiful and

important collection of art

from Africa and its diaspora,

but also for the amazing

design of the museum itself.

Currently on show is “Why

Should I Hesitate: Putting

Drawings to Work”: a broad

survey of South African

artist William Kentridge’s

work, covering over 40 years

of his artistic output in

drawings, stop-frame

animation, video, prints,

sculpture and large-scale

installations.

~ zeitzmocaa.museum

Fashion

Top Hats

Marketing their headwear as

“modern gentlemen’s attire”,

Askfashionista is a brand that

every gentleman hat-lover

should get to know. This

beautiful Nigerian fashion

line offers fantastic hats in all

colours and sizes.

~ Instagram: @askfashionista

Design

Mash.T Design Studio x Houtlander

A collaboration between award-winning South African

designers Thabisa Mjo – of Mash.T Design Studio – and Phillip

Hollander and Stephen Wilson – of Houtlander – has resulted

in the stunning “Hlabisa Bench”. With a shape inspired by a

three-legged pot that Thabisa saw her grandmother using at her

house in KwaZulu-Natal, the designers enlisted local master

weavers to create the bench’s basketweave.


18 / TRAVEL / Essentials

The Village Halloween Parade

takes place in New York’s

Greenwich Village on 31 October.

Packing for New York

Archtober, which happens during

October ever year, is New York’s

architecture and design event.

Stay chic and hands-free with this convertable leather

waist bag. Kate Spade, US$225.

This stylish hybrid smartwatch

tracks your heart rate 24/7,

counts your steps and monitors

your wellness. It even counts your

calories. Vivomove HR, Garmin,

US$350.

A visit to New York isn’t complete

without a night on the town – make

sure you include a great evening dress

on your packing list. See by Chloé via

Mytheresa, US$415.

This New York

menswear brand

makes stylish basics,

such as these perfect

socks. Saturdays

NYC, US$15.

The best carry-on

luggage in the world now

comes in Big Apple Red.

Rimowa, US$700.

Fight jetlag with a

deep-cleansing,

detox face mask.

(MALIN+GOETZ),

US$46.

When you’re in an analogue mood, capture

your New York adventures instantly with this

cool mint instant camera. Leica, US$299.

Men’s slim-fit

trench coat

in a woolblend

twill.

Hugo Boss,

US$445.

Indie magazine

Cereal makes

classy, curated

city guides in

its signature

minimalist

style. Abrams

Image, US$25.

Selection: Gijsje Ribbens


20 / TRAVEL / Uganda

TRAVEL / 21

ADVENTURE

CAPITAL

Located on the shores of Lake Victoria in

southern Uganda, and featuring a wide range of

outdoor activities such as whitewater rafting,

JINJA is a paradise for thrill-seekers.

text Wendy Watta

Wendy Watta


22 / TRAVEL / Uganda

TRAVEL / 23

AS I hold on to the boda boda driver for dear life, we fly

past the historic Jinja Clock Tower at a terrific speed; the

wheels of this motorbike taxi barely grazing the tarmac. Per

my instruction, the driver is taking me to a spot where I can

register for a local SIM card, and he seems to have taken to it

with the seriousness of someone taking a woman in labour to

the hospital. Despite becoming an official city as of this year,

Jinja is still very much a replica of other small towns across

East Africa. The bustling Main Street is hugged by small,

tightly packed shops whose brightly coloured walls seem to

always be advertising one thing or the other: deep yellow for a

telecom company, green for a curry powder that promises

vitality, the most vibrant of pinks for Baba Tembo’s electrical

shop, and so on.

“What do you mean I have to pay for a daily ‘OTT tax’ in

order to access social media?” I ask the lady who’s now helping

me to register for a SIM card. She looks at me indifferently,

possibly tired of having this very conversation with first-time

visitors to Uganda.

Back on the boda boda, we skirt across the Jinja bridge, past

scenic banana and maize farms that neatly line up like bridal

parties posing for wedding photos. Bananas are everywhere:

heaped on the back of a bicycle; seductively spread out on

roadside sacks tempting possible buyers; carried on the head of

a graceful woman; and my favourite, grilled with a dash of salt

and then hawked to hungry passersby.

Said to be the very source of the Nile (the longest river

in Africa and arguably the world), Jinja has incredible views,

world-class rapids, and promises a world of adventure for

the keen thrill-seeker. It’s also ideal for those on a budget

because food, outdoor activities, transport and entertainment

are relatively cheap here. Furthermore, the community of

adventure enthusiasts is small and welcoming, which is great

for solo travellers. Having only five days to spare, I arrive as a

visitor but leave with lifelong friends.

WHITEWATER RAFTING

As far as names go, it doesn’t get more intimidating than

the Class V rapids called “The Washing Machine”, but Jinja

has rapids that range up to Class VI, which is for seasoned

pros. As beginners, after we’re taken through some safety

instructions followed by a brief practical session out on the

water, some of our apprehension gives way to excitement,

which continues to build as the seven of us – in our brightblue

raft – start to paddle in a near-perfect synchrony. Shortly

after, we come to our very first, raging Class III rapids.

When I find out that they’re called Bubugo (condolences),

my apprehension returns. There’s no time to second-guess

things, however, as the majority of the group quickly vote that

we navigate it from its very centre, which increases our chances

of flipping over by about 90 percent. With feigned gusto, >

“As far as names go, it doesn’t get more

intimidating than the Class V rapids called

‘The Washing Machine’”

Where to stay

Lemala Wildwaters Lodge

A high-end lodge nestled in a

rainforest and surrounded by

rapids, right in the middle of the

Nile. lemalacamp.com

The Haven Eco River Lodge

Uganda

Serene, with stunning views.

Cottages are mid-range, but

consider camping for even

cheaper rates.

thehaven-uganda.com

The Nile Porch River Lodge

Has semi-permanent tents

raised on cliffs overlooking the

Nile. Accommodation available

for different budgets.

nileporch.com

Explorers River Camp

Has affordable camps, dorms

and rooms. Always lively. Great

for meeting other adventurers

from around the world.

raftafrica.com

Above: Whitewater

rafting on the Nile

(top); The Nile Porch

River Lodge (bottom

left); Grey Crowned

Crane (bottom right).

Right page: A school

bus takes a break

from the sun at the

Kakira Sugar Factory

in Jinja (top); View

from the pool at

Lemala Wildwaters

Lodge (bottom

left); Lake Victoria

(bottom right).

Wendy Watta, Hanae Benjnouh, Stocksy, Robert Harding


24 / TRAVEL / Uganda

TRAVEL / 25

Jinja railway

station

“Jinja is still very much a

replica of other small towns

across East Africa”

Alamy

Hanae Benjnouh

Boats at the

source of the

Nile River.


26 / TRAVEL / Uganda

TRAVEL / 27

Left page: A young boy

carries water on his

oversized bike through the

Itanda Falls area (top); Lake

Victoria at dawn (bottom

left); People working at a tea

estate (bottom right).

Right: Bungee

jumping at Lemala

Wildwaters Lodge.

Wendy Watta, Hanae Benjnouh, Shutterstock

we paddle right for Bubugo. Before I’m hurled out of the raft,

it feels like I’m tumbling over the edge of the Earth, which is as

unsettling as it is thrilling. The whitewater rages above me but

my life jacket pushes me up to the surface; and as I splutter for

air, I realise that I’m trapped under the raft. Remembering the

practical session, I manoeuvre my way from underneath and

swim to the safety boat, which had been following our raft all

along. It’s only later, while we’re bumping fists and hooting

into the air as the adrenaline kicks in, that I realise I would

probably do it all over again.

QUAD BIKING

My guide Henry helps me gear up in overalls, goggles, a

scarf and a helmet. Riding a quad bike is easy to master, and

after a short practice session, we set off for Kyabirwa Village.

Henry goes first along what was once Bujagali Falls. When the

Ugandan government dammed the river in 2011 for a hydroelectric

project, six rapids were buried under a giant reservoir,

and the loss is palpable. Now, the Nile silently snakes along the

periphery of the village, between a sprawling mass of trees and

shrubs, its beauty domineering.

We charge full-throttle towards simple mud homes. Bare

doorways are covered by thin, brightly coloured curtains billowing

gently in the breeze. At first, it’s hard to imagine that a

place as charming as this would be without inhabitants, but as

we roll on, I spot them lounging in the shade outside their

houses seeking respite from the mid-afternoon heat. The kids

run to the roads in numbers to wave and say hello. We also

come across stubborn goats that refuse to budge when we

meet along the road, so we’re the ones moving out of the way.

As I switch gears to charge uphill through a road lined

with surprisingly green farms, it’s thrilling to feel that power

underneath my hands. We get to a secluded riverbank where

some villagers are bathing, washing clothes, swimming, fetching

water in yellow jerrycans or tending to their fishing nets,

all within about five metres of each other. This is not only an

exciting activity, it’s also a great way to gain insight into the

daily lives of the locals.

KAYAKING

It’s day three and it’s time for kayaking. From solo to tandem,

and whitewater kayaking, there’s something for everyone.

I settle for a one-hour session gently paddling out on the calm,

flat water while checking out the birdlife. My guide and I both

get on solo sit-on-top kayaks after which he shows me a few

basics, such as how to hold the paddle and move in different

directions, and then we set off.

The scenery surrounding the Nile gets me every time. It’s

spectacular, and it’s not long before we start spotting an array

of freshwater birds such as the cormorant, various herons and

egrets, and my favourite: kingfishers. My guide points >

“It’s only later, while we’re bumping fists and

hooting into the air as the adrenaline kicks in, that

I realise I would probably do it all over again”

Don’t miss…

Jinja is a great place for horse riding and bungee

jumping, but at the time of my visit, the latter was

unfortunately on hold as the company was moving to a

new site. For the best rates, book activities directly with

one of the various adventure companies in town.

Essentials

• Scarf to tie around your head to cover your nose,

especially if you intend to use a boda boda or quad

bike. Parts of Jinja can be really dusty.

• Mosquito repellent, although most hotels have nets.

• Sunscreen and a hat, as temperatures can be high.

• Water bottle, as some companies will not allow you to

bring single-use plastics to the river.

• Binoculars, for bird-watching even over lunch at a

restaurant.

• Waterproof case for your phone and camera, but most

rafting companies will have one main one on board.

• Swimsuit: don’t miss out on a dip in the Nile.

• High-performance clothing is ideal for cycling and

watersports.


28 / TRAVEL / Uganda

TRAVEL / 29

Left: A stall-holder

organises her vegetable

stand at the Jinja

market (top); SUP

boarding out on the

water (bottom left);

Quad biking throuh a

farm (bottom right).

them all out as he tells me about some of the efforts being

made to involve the local community in beekeeping as a business,

as opposed to cutting and selling riverine trees that are

vital for the ecosystem here. He even tells me about two

friends who followed the Nile from its source in Jinja to

Egypt on a four-month kayaking and rafting trip.

“Riding a quad bike is easy to master,

and after a short practice session, we set off

for Kyabirwa Village”

Where to eat

The Black Lantern Restaurant

Striking view and serene location.

Popular for their pork ribs and

excellent mojitos. nileporch.com

Igar Cafe

Very affordable. Pop in for lunch for

some local food served buffet-style.

igarplazahotel.com

The Source Cafe

Grab an iced coffee and some fresh

pastries before you head off for the

day. source.co.ug

Moti Mahal

Try the “tahil”, a delicious spicy

curry with unlimited naan, daal and

rice. Good spot for vegetarians too.

CYCLING

There are many routes and options to consider, but cycling

to Mabira Forest just outside Jinja, and then heading to the

surrounding tea estate, is arguably the best. Indigenous trees

stand on long, lean trunks, branches converging at the top to

provide much-needed shade, without which the climb would be

much more arduous. Rolling through the rainforest, we spot

barefoot kids balancing heavy bundles of firewood on their

heads, and I learn that while the surrounding community is not

allowed to cut trees, they can pick fallen branches.

Although the first kilometre is laid-back, thereafter it is

anything but. The route has steep climbs and fast descents, all

lined up in quick succession. The thick foliage gives way to a

well-manicured tea estate after 7 km. It stretches into the gentle

hillside as far as the eye can see and is dotted with tea pickers

who are dexterously plucking the delicate leaves by hand

(or using handmade devices), and then throwing them into

large sisal baskets, which they carry on their backs.

As we cycle past a residential area, the smell of brewing tea

wafts towards me, and I’m reminded just how hungry I am.

When we get back to the main road after covering 16 km in 2.5

hours, it’s time for a classic Ugandan snack. To some, a “rolex”

might be a beloved luxury watch, but here it’s a spanish-style

omelette placed inside a chapati and rolled to create the most

delicious thing I tasted in Uganda.

SUP HAMMOCK

We decide to wind down with something relaxing and hire

stand-up paddle boards (SUPs). After pottering about the

river for all of 30 minutes, we decide to hire a SUP hammock

instead. It’s a thing of wonder: three SUPs rigged together

with two hammocks tied to either end. We get comfortable,

and a guide on a kayak gently pulls us along. Time spools out.

I barely even lift my head to look at the otters swimming past.

The sun starts to set. Our gin and tonics are instinctively

topped up. If ever an activity deserved to be called blissful,

it would be this.

“He even tells me about

two friends who followed the

Nile from its source in Jinja

to Egypt”

Jinja Sailing Club

Set along Lake Victoria and can

be a good base for boat cruises.

Good Indian and continental food.

jinjasailingclub.com


Plan your trip

Book your flight to Uganda

on kenya-airways.com

Wendy Watta, Hanae Benjnouh, Stocksy

The sun rises over

Lake Victoria.


30 / BUSINESS / Book review

TRAVEL / 31

The word fuselage comes from

the Latin fũsus, or “spindle”, which

describes the central tube-shaped part

of an aircraft.

The Fuselage

The first aircraft had an open structure

with a wooden fuselage. Nowadays, the

fuselage is made of metal or another

strong material.

“Attention is more

difficult to capture

than ever before”

How to Speak Human:

A practical guide

to getting the best

from the humans

you work with

Authors

Dougal and Jen Jackson

Want to connect with your workforce?

Speak human! It’s harder than you’d

think. The good news? It’s a language you

can learn with How to Speak Human.

Check out the book’s top tips.

The fuselage is

hollow to reduce

weight.

Publisher

Wiley

Bio

Dougal and Jen Jackson are

founders of award-winning employee

experience company Jaxzyn. They work

with organisations globally to discover

and implement ways to make our

workplaces more human.

Pages

192

Summary

In an age of maximum efficiency, it’s

never been more important to engage

people. To do that, speak to their

human side. In this book, authors

Dougal and Jen Jackson share how:

make them curious, make them laugh,

surprise them! In short, make them

feel something. Anything.

Spark curiosity

Curiosity is dynamite. It prompted us

to, “Strap ourselves into too-thin tin

space shuttles stuffed with enough explosives

to quite literally blow ourselves

to the moon.” Want your team to pay

attention? Learn the art of leaving

information out. “Drip-feed content in

small amounts to keep people hungry

for more.” Alternatively, “Provide

information as a puzzle or quiz for

people to fill in the blanks.”

Choose words wisely

“There’s something undeniably wonderful

– magical, even – about the way

well-chosen words can make us feel.”

How to make words work? Show personality

and make your tone familiar

to foster inclusion and understanding.

And perhaps most importantly,

“Translate abstract visions, strategies

and concepts into concrete language.”

Avoid, “Vague leadership clichés like

‘integrity’ and ‘excellence’, and bland

business tropes like ‘alignment’ and

‘value’.” Paint a more detailed and

evocative picture.

Be visual

Around 70 percent of our receptors are

dedicated to dealing with visual input,

according to the authors. “Simplifying

complex content, improving comprehension,

increasing reaction times,

aiding recall, attracting and directing

our attention – these are the advantages

of making communication visual.” So,

don’t treat design as an afterthought.

“Support important content with relevant

illustrations, photos or diagrams.”

Colour adds impact. Another good

one? “Avoid templates…they make

everything look the same.”

About the book

An informal, quirky guide

with 11 strategies, 23

tactics and 15 stories

to help hijack attention,

and engage and influence

others in the workplace.

Text: Annemarie Hoeve

Text: Captain Dhaval Patel

In passenger aircraft, the

fuselage normally has a

durable semi-monocoque

construction, which means

the frame is held together

by both the skin and the

skeleton, with horizontal

stringers for extra support.

The fuselage, or body, of an aircraft is its housing

structure: a long, hollow tube that holds everything

together. It’s one of the five major components of an

aircraft. As with most other parts, fuselage design

is determined by the intended use, such as carrying

cargo or passengers, or training pilots. The size and

design of the fuselage can therefore vary; yet its

shape will always be circular, rather than square. The

main reason is that pressure loads are resisted by

tension in circular sections rather than by bending

loads in non-circular sections.

Just like the wings, the fuselage is made of large,

plate-like parts that are connected with fasteners

and rivets. Each time an aircraft is pressurised during

flight, these fasteners and rivets are subject to stress.

Aircraft that are used on short-haul flights experience

more stress on their fuselages and wings because

they go through a large number of pressurisation

cycles every day. For this reason, they will last about

20 years. Aircraft used on longer flights experience

fewer pressurisation cycles, and can last up to 30

years. An aircraft’s lifespan is therefore measured not

in years, but in pressurisation cycles. A Boeing 747,

for example, can endure about 35,000 pressurisation

cycles and roughly 135,000 to 165,000 flight hours

and is retired after approximately 27 years of service.


32 / PEOPLE / Conservationists

PEOPLE / 33

Natural

Heroes

“Saving Africa’s

wildlife is challenging,

but I’ll never give in to

pessimism”

Africa’s iconic wildlife and parks are being

threatened more than ever before. Meet the

leading CONSERVATIONISTS who are battling

to protect them.

text Shalini Gidoomal

Shamini

Jayanathan

Age

47

Role

Director of Wildlife Law and Justice at

Space for Giants

Country

Based in Kenya, with operations in several

countries, including Uganda, Botswana,

Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia

Memorable moment

Creating a prosecutor handbook on

wildlife crime in 2015

Developing guidelines – launched by the

Chief Justice of Kenya in 2015 – to reduce

delay in the criminal courts

Achievements

Kenya’s former Director of Public

Prosecutions Keriako Tobiko praised the

handbook for helping to raise conviction

rates from 24 percent to over 80 percent

Online

@wildlifelawyer; spaceforgiants.org

In Zimbabwe, there’s a minimum nine-year sentence

for possession of python skin. “It means that if I would

kill one in my backyard, I could go to prison for almost a

decade,” says Shamini Jayanathan as an example of the

challenges in her legal work. “This lack of nuance on the

issue of prosecution and sentencing doesn’t endear people

to wildlife, or encourage any sort of whistleblowing on the

important larger players in the game.”

As a child of Sri Lankan parents in the UK,

Jayanathan grew up with elephant figurines all over the

house. Little did she know that the real thing would

become such a formative part of her groundbreaking

work in battling wildlife crime.

After 15 years as a criminal barrister in the UK,

Jayanathan took a position in Kenya working on counter

terrorism, and that’s where she began giving pro bono

counsel to conservation non-governmental organisations,

which led to her current role.

“Crime is crime,” says Jayanathan of her change in

focus. “Being a prosecutor requires the same skills in any

arena. I now use mine to enhance legal capacity across the

continent in wildlife prosecutions.”

The challenges are many. Often, trials for such crimes

drag on for two to four years, which is a hindrance to

successful outcomes, and prosecutors often have limited

time to access important legal materials necessary to build

their cases. Jayanathan, who loves diving into a country’s

legislation when invited to contribute, now criss-crosses the

continent working on improving wider legal frameworks.

She has helped codify criminal prosecution standards in

Botswana, and she has developed prescriptive sentencing

guidelines in Uganda. She mentors lawyers in the Kenya

Wildlife Service and across Africa, and her prosecutor

handbook on wildlife crime has set a continent-wide

structure for dealing with wildlife crimes.

duncan@camerapix.tv


34 / PEOPLE / Conservationists

PEOPLE / 35

Brian

Heath

Age

69

Role

CEO of Mara Conservancy;

Director of Seiya Ltd

Country

Kenya

Memorable moment

Working with his Tanzanian counterparts in order to

revolutionise the safety of the Mara Triangle and the

Northern Serengeti

Achievements

Presidential Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya

(2013)

Online

maratriangle.org

Thandiwe

Mweetwa

Age

31

Role

Senior ecologist at the Zambian Carnivore

Programme; manager of the organisation’s

Conservation Education Programme

Country

Zambia

Memorable moment

Becoming a National Geographic Emerging Explorer

in 2016

Achievements

Alumnus of the Obama Foundation’s 2018 Leaders:

Africa programme

Online

zambiacarnivores.org

Edward Selfe

“People vote. Animals don’t.

That makes conservation difficult”

“I remember my mother’s vivid stories about the local wildlife when

she was growing up; they sparked my fascination with nature”

Brian Heath is a busy man. Right now, he’s negotiating to

become an advisor to – and hopefully manager of – the worldfamous

Maasai Mara National Reserve. He’s currently in charge

of the soutwestern part of it, which is called the Mara Triangle.

This section has been consistently regarded as the bestmanaged

area of the Maasai Mara. Less crowded than other

parts of the reserve, and with better-maintained roads and a

strong team, the area is a model for conservation turnaround.

“We were asked 18 years ago by the local Maasai to help out

with the western part of the reserve, where there were multiple

problems,” says Heath. “When I came to the area, there were 27

demoralised staff, a string of poachers’ camps, limited roads and

massive amounts of cattle-raiding. It was anarchy really.”

In his first year as head of the Mara Triangle, Heath made

considerable progress. He trebled revenue, made sure rangers

were paid on time, and started responding to calls for assistance

during cattle raids at night. Within three years, these issues were

under control, “Which was perhaps the single most helpful thing

we did for the Maasai,” says Heath. “On top of that, wildlife

numbers rose, and we haven’t had any poaching incidents in the

last 12 years.” Thanks to these improvements, the Mara Triangle

is now one of the few reserves in Kenya that doesn’t rely on

donor funding; with park fees financing most of the work.

“The Mara is relatively secure given its iconic status,” he

adds. “But it will only survive as long as the greater ecosystem

outside is intact.” Step outside the bounds of the conservancies

that fringe the Mara, and you’ll see wheat farms and housing

cause catastrophic problems for wildlife, such as blocking

migration corridors

“For conservation to be effective in the long term across

the country, its vital that the state looks to incentivising landowners

to keep their land for wildlife,” says Heath.

Lions are vanishing. Their numbers have halved in the last 25

years, leading to the classification as vulnerable to extinction by

the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

Zambia, and the Luangwa Valley in particular, is one of the

last strongholds for the larger African carnivores. With roughly 40

percent of the country’s land set aside for wildlife, and strong buffer

zones for lion parks, these apex predators have a good chance of

survival here. “Luangwa holds Zambia’s biggest lion and leopard

populations and its second-largest wild dog population. So ecologically,

it’s a key area,” said Thandiwe Mweetwa in an interview with

BUCKiT.

It is, therefore, the perfect place for research. Mweetwa, whose

initial career choice of wildlife vet failed due to a fear of blood,

successfully turned her attention instead to ecology and biology,

and works to map the patterns of human-carnivore interaction as

they shift, so she’s often tracking and studying different lion or wild

dog groups. As well as rescuing snared animals, she liaises with

communities whenever there are human-animal conflicts, and she

runs a programme to educate youths about conservation.

“We need to balance the ‘boots on the ground’ approach with

meaningful engagement with disenfranchised communities,” she

says. “In the next decade, we’ll be faced with the daunting task of

rapid economic development coinciding with biodiversity protection.”

Partly to address this, Mweetwa set up Women in Wildlife

Conservation in 2016. Participants receive full instruction in all

aspects of conservation work, and this vital information is integrated

into secondary school- and community education.

“What makes me hopeful about the work that I do, and conservation

work in general, is that most of the problems are tied to

human behaviour,” adds Mweetwa. “As a global community, we

need to cultivate a sense of pride in our shared natural heritage,

and realise that only collective effort will make a difference.”


36 / PEOPLE / Conservationists

PEOPLE / 37

Olivier

Nsengimana

Emmanuel

de Merode

Age

35

Age

49

Role

Founder and Executive Director of the Rwanda

Wildlife Conservation Association (RWCA)

Role

Director and Chief Warden of the Virunga National

Park

Country

Rwanda

Country

Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC)

Memorable moment

Releasing RWCA’s first rescued grey crowned cranes

back into nature

Memorable moment

Bringing electricity via hydropower to the

communities around Virunga National Park

Achievements

2019 Future for Nature Award

2018 Whitley Award

2017 National Geographic’s Buffett Award for

Leadership in Conservation

2016 Tusk Conservation Awards Finalist

2014 Rolex Young Laureate

Achievements

2018 Freedom from Want award

2015 Rolex National Geographic Explorer of the Year

2015 Tusk Award for Conservation in Africa

Online

virunga.org

Online

rwandawildlife.org

Getty images

Getty images

“Our childhood superhero was the grey crowned crane.

We would watch it soar and fly above us and try to imitate it”

“For me, it’s beyond doubt that without the Netflix film,

the park would not exist today”

“When I was young, growing up in a rural village, our

childhood superhero was the grey crowned crane. We would

watch it soar and fly above us and try to imitate it,” said Olivier

Nsengimana during his talk at the Fall Expo 2018. But, due to

shrinking marshland habitat and widespread poaching the

crane’s presence in the wild had – at one point – decreased by

80 percent to less than 500 birds in Rwanda.

“Local communities who live next to wetlands hunt cranes

and sell them as cheaply as chickens to those who want to display

them in their gardens,” he said. “The crane is a symbol of wealth

and longevity.”

Unfortunately, grey crowned cranes rarely breed in captivity,

so in 2014, Nsengimana (formerly a gorilla vet) decided to switch

specialty and create an amnesty programme – together with the

government – for Rwandans to declare captive cranes without

penalties. This enabled the RWCA to register and monitor the

birds. Those healthy enough to return to the wild are treated for

diseases. After that, they’re placed in a rehabilitation facility in

Akagera National Park. From there, they fly back into nature

when they’re ready. To date, 287 birds have been registered and

203 have been placed in the rehabilitation facility. Of those, 153

have been reintroduced to the wild.

In order to prevent rescued cranes from being recaptured,

Nsengimana now devotes most of his energy to community

work. The RWCA attends market days countrywide, providing

entertainment and prizes as well as wildlife education. And, as

a way of helping the cranes to regain the hero status they had

during his childhood, Nsengimana uses a comic book to help

kids to learn the importance of nature and wildlife. “Kids are

the future of conservation,” he said. “If cranes become Rwandan

children’s superheroes once again, their chances of survival

will become much greater.”

“When I was a teenager, I remember my parents telling

me that gorillas were a species on the edge of extinction and I

would never get to see them,” said Belgian Prince Emmanuel

de Merode at the 2016 We Are Africa Conference. Instead,

their survival has been “one of Virunga’s greatest conservation

success stories”.

The park’s gorilla population has increased from about 480

individuals in 2010 to a minimum count of 604 individuals in

2016. And now, in the flanks of thickly forested mountains,

they’re the park’s main attraction.

But this extraordinary place, which hosts the most diverse

range of wildlife and varied terrain of any park, is located in an

area of great conflict on the border of Rwanda, Uganda and

DRC. “Illegal exploitation of resources, including a US$35

million charcoal trade, has resulted in long-running conflict,

which spills into the park,” added De Merode. He’s the only

foreign national in the country bestowed with judicial powers,

which have allowed him to open discussions with rebel forces

and persuade them to stop shooting in the park.

The complex struggle to preserve the park’s unique flora

and fauna took a turn in 2012 when British oil company, Soco,

began to explore for oil. The conflict that ensued was depicted

in the award-winning Netflix documentary, Virunga, which

ultimately contributed to Soco pulling out of the park.

“For me, it’s beyond doubt that without the Netflix film,

the park would not exist today,” said De Merode. “The film

helped generate interest towards an ambitious programme

encompassing hydro-electricity, schools and micro loans for

the local population to better their quality of living. We have

some four million of the poorest people living around here and

they make the greatest sacrifice to have this area pristine for the

overall betterment of mankind.”


38 / TREND / Renewable energy

TREND / 39

Solar

System

In isolated, off-grid communities,

SOLAR-POWERED innovations are

improving livelihoods, boosting economic

opportunities and even saving lives.

text Andrea Dijkstra

IN MANY health facilities in rural Sub-Saharan Africa,

doctors conduct emergency surgeries with lights from their

mobile phones, women give birth in the dark without necessary

medical equipment and babies are at risk of dying because

there’s no reliable power to supply oxygen concentrators. “In

the hospital, you often didn’t have access to oxygen cylinders.

So the power goes out and you’re out of luck. We had children

that died in front of our eyes,” said Canadian paediatrician

Michael Hawkes in an interview with Science Daily.

BREATHE IN

Experience working in a Ugandan hospital motivated Dr

Hawkes and his colleagues to develop a solar-powered oxygen

concentrator that provides a constant source of oxygen. Solar

panels on the hospital’s roof supply the oxygen concentrator

with power during the day, which pulls oxygen from the air.

Then, after the sun goes down, batteries charged by the solar

panels keep the concentrator running through the night. The

system was piloted in Jinja and the more remote town of

Kambuga in Uganda, and saved 22 of 28 children in the test

phase. The researchers are now working to expand the system

to 80 hospitals across Uganda. “If we could expand it, could

you imagine how many children would have access to lifesaving

oxygen therapy?” added Dr Hawkes.

According to research from the World Health Organization

(WHO), around 600 million people in Sub-Saharan Africa still

live without access to electricity, and about one in four health

facilities have no access to electricity, while most others have

an unreliable supply.

However, this situation is starting to change thanks to a

growing number of innovative solar solutions. In Zimbabwe,

for example, solar electricity now provides uninterrupted power

to over 400 healthcare facilities, meaning that lifesaving >

Made in Kenya

Naivasha hosts the first and

only solar panel factory in East

& Central Africa. Solinc East

Africa manufactures solar

panels from 5W to 250W and

assembles complete solar home

kits that include batteries, phone

chargers and LED lights. Its

biggest customer is Nairobi-based

solar company M-KOPA, which

purchased 100,000 panels from

Solinc. The factory in Naivasha

employs 130 Kenyans.

Jeroen van Loon


40 / TREND / Renewable energy

TREND / 41

Joeroen van Loon

medical devices, medicines, vaccines and medical files, among

other essentials, are always available. The solar electricity

systems were installed through the Solar for Health initiative,

a partnership between the United Nations Development

Programme and African governments. The initiative has been

expanded to Sudan, Zambia, South Sudan, Namibia and

Angola where solar systems have already been installed in

over 100 clinics. It’s proving to be a cost-effective, sustainable

approach to ensure health security for millions of people in

Sub-Saharan Africa.

ENERGY FOR AGRICULTURE

Solar power is also helping to modernise the agricultural

sector in the region, where only six percent of the cultivated

land is currently irrigated, even though irrigation has the

potential to boost agricultural productivities by at least 50 percent.

Kenyan farmer Mary Mugwathe, for example, makes use

of a solar pump to irrigate her garlic, onion and tomato plants.

“I wasn’t happy with the petrol pump that I used before as it

frequently broke down, which affected productivity. It was also

too heavy to manoeuvre and the fuel cost me over US$25 a

week,” she says. “With solar energy, I’m able to farm throughout

the year without any hassles. The pump is portable, so I can

easily take it to the piece of plot I intend to irrigate, and running

the pump doesn’t cost me anything as the sun powers it.”

The farmer purchased the solar pump for US$400 from

international social enterprise KickStart that allowed her to

pay in small instalments over a period of one year. “Solar

energy has become cheaper per watt and is, therefore, starting

to compete with petrol and manual labour,” says John Kihia,

Director, Field Innovations at KickStart Kenya. Kihia believes

that solar has the potential to transform farmers’ lives. “Most

“With solar energy, I’m

able to farm throughout the

year without any hassles”

On-site solutions

A growing number of companies in Sub-Saharan

Africa are investing in on-site solar farms to bridge

outages, reduce reliance on diesel generators, save

energy costs and reduce their carbon footprint.

Multinational Unilever, for example, launched its

first on-site solar installation in Sub-Saharan Africa

(through a pay-to-own loan from CrossBoundary

Energy) at its tea factory in Kericho, Kenya, earlier

this year. And, international food conglomerate Cargill

inaugurated a solar-power facility at its site in Tema,

Ghana, two years ago.

Due to high investment costs, other firms lease onsite

solar farms. In Ghana, for example, a soft-drink

factory leases one from solar firm Redavia. The solar

farms are factory-assembled, shipped to the remote

location and assembled on-site.

farmers only harvest once or twice a year, but thanks to these

solar pumps, they will be able to grow crops throughout the

year, which will enable them to get their crop to market when

the prices are high. This will greatly improve their income.”

Professor Bancy Mati – a Kenyan land and water management

expert – advocates for the use of solar-powered irrigation

to achieve sustainable irrigation and increase food security.

“Petrol and diesel pumps pollute the environment, and projects

often fail as communities cannot maintain the complicated

generators; nor can they afford the fuel,” said Mati during a

workshop about smart water solutions last year at Jomo

Kenyatta University of Agriculture and Technology. “However,

solar technology is an inexhaustible source of clean energy

found virtually everywhere.”

As solar panels have become more affordable, solar pumps

are increasingly used for the drinking water supply in rural

areas. The United Nations Children’s Fund (UNICEF), for

example, now uses solar-powered water systems in 21 countries

in Sub-Saharan Africa; mostly in remote areas. “This solar

water system has eased the stress, particularly on women who

used to spend most of their time in search of water, which is

now available to all,” said Haaxi Abdi Omar, a female community

leader, in an interview with UNICEF Somalia.

HOME SOLAR KITS

The spread of solar power is not only supporting farmers,

it’s also helping people to feel more connected, informed and

engaged. Until recently, few people in the rolling savannah of

Kenya’s Kajiado County had electricity. Duncan Manga, who

lives in a small house with a corrugated roof, now has his own

flatscreen TV. The Maasai man purchased a so-called “solar

home system” through M-KOPA Solar, the worldwide market

leader of “pay-as-you-go” solar energy for off-grid customers.

Having a TV for the first time in his life means a lot to Manga.

“I love to watch the news and I can teach my children about the

rest of the world,” he says. According to research by M-KOPA,

a lot people who aquire TVs for the first time in off-grid homes

report an improved lifestyle because they feel more informed.

According to M-KOPA sales agent Victor Risa, solar power

also boosts economic activity. One of his customers founded a

video hall where visitors pay a US$0.20 entrance fee to watch

movies or football matches on a solar-powered TV. “It’s a

lucrative business as 100 people visit the place per night on a

regular basis,” says Risa.

While solar home systems can supply power for lights,

TVs and fridges, they can’t produce enough current for energysapping

appliances such as a grain mill or heat lamps. For this

reason, solar companies such as Powerhive and Black Star

Energy have taken a different approach by building solar microgrids

that not only provide enough power for a grain mill or

cold-storage facility, they can also electrify a whole village.

Entrepreneur Dismas Mosongo doubled his income

thanks to extra economic activities that were made possible

by access to the solar electricity. “Thanks to this electricity,

I’ve been able to start several small businesses, including a

barber’s shop, and a small kiosk where I sell items for the

home and offer phone charging to customers.”

“We believe that economic development depends on access

to enough electricity to power productive activities, not merely

lights and mobile-phone chargers,” says Rik Wuts, cofounder

of Powerhive, which now operates 16 micro-grids in Kenya,

serving around 15,000 people. Wuts also claims that the microgrids

are completely future proof. “Whenever the national grid

will arrive, we can just interconnect and work in conjunction

with the grid.”

40

Less than 40% of the people in Sub-

Saharan Africa have access to the grid

50

Sub-Saharan Africa has the lowest energy

access rates in the world. Electricity

reaches only about 50% of its people

99

Compared to 1980, prices of solar panels

have fallen by more than 99%

9,000,000

It’s estimated that nine million Kenyan

households can now access off-grid

renewable energy

600,000,000

An estimated 600 million people in sub-

Saharan Africa still live without electricity

Joeroen van Loon


42 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance BUSINESS / 43

At a glance

DRC

Have a closer look at Democratic Republic of

the Congo. The most relevant FACTS AND

FIGURES, tourist attractions and social trends.

text Yvette Bax infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism


44 / BUSINESS / Bananas

BUSINESS / 45

GOING

BANANAS

Evolution, pests and diseases are

threatening the banana with

EXTINCTION, so a global network of

researchers is working to keep it alive.

text Liz Ng’ang’a

Stocksy

EACH DAY in Uganda, Brigitte

Uwimana, a Banana Molecular Breeder

at the International Institute of Tropical

Agriculture (IITA), leads a team of

researchers as they breed bananas using

the fruit’s genetic signatures and evaluate

resulting new varieties. Meanwhile, Rony

Swennen, a Banana Breeder at IITA in

Tanzania, and his team are painstakingly

studying variations in different types of

banana and plantain, which is mostly

roasted. Both teams are components of

a pipeline that’s determined to improve

banana production in Africa through

the Breeding Better Bananas project,

an initiative that’s bringing together

researchers from the US, Africa, Europe,

Australia, Asia and South America.

TAKEN FOR GRANTED

To many of us in Africa, the banana

is a handy snack, the weaning food for

infants and an omnipresent feature of

our hillsides. In fact, it’s a staple food

crop for millions of people here. It also

prevents soil erosion, and provides the

raw material for a range of products,

such as bread, thatching and Uganda’s

beloved national spirit: Waragi.

The banana value chain in Africa

encompasses diverse actors: producers,

middlemen, transporters, market traders

and end-product processors. And while

statistics are obscure, the banana is a key

commodity in intra-Africa trade, with the

crop expected to benefit from initiatives

such as the African Continental Free

Trade Area. Exports from Africa to international

markets are also difficult to document.

However, African dessert bananas

can be found in supermarkets, while

cooking bananas and plantains find their

way to niche corner shops targeting African

clientele abroad. Indeed, due to its

economic potential, African countries

have begun in earnest, developing value

chains that will elevate the banana to its

rightful role as a cash crop.

In reality, Africa’s banana sector is

producing a mere fraction of its potential

as a result of factors that include pests,

mainly weevils and soil-dwelling worms

known as nematodes, as well as diseases

such as black Sigatoka and fusarium

wilt, contagious fungal diseases that are

capable of destroying plantations.

GONE BANANAS?

According to the Breeding Better

Bananas team, this scenario can be

reversed by developing resistant varieties.

But, the banana is the most difficult crop

to breed due to an evolutionary process

that has led to reports predicting its

imminent extinction.

“Alarmist as these reports might

seem, there is some truth in them,” says

Swennen. “Bananas are a scientific

paradox having reached an evolutionary

dead end. In fact, the fruits that we

consume today are seedless and sexually

sterile. And yet, this sterility is a blessing

in disguise. Banana seeds resemble ballbearings,

which would make eating the

fruit an oral juggle.”

“Breeding bananas involves a return

to the inedible-yet-fertile, seed-producing

ancestral varieties, and then cross-pollinating

them to produce infertile hybrids

that are resistant to pests and diseases,

are edible and retain the acceptable attributes

of the fruit,” says Jerome Kubiriba,

Head of the Banana Programme at

National Agricultural Research Organisation

(NARO), Uganda. The result should

be better yields and improved returns for

growers through a collaboration between

researchers, farmers, government officials

and the private sector.

The Breeding Better Bananas team

has the advantage of networks and

experience. Swennen has been breeding

bananas for 40 years, and he’s spent a

significant amount of that time at IITA.

In 1987, IITA commenced a breeding

programme for resistance against black

Sigatoka disease in plantain. Through

the West Africa Agricultural Productivity

Program, resistant plantain hybrids were

developed, and between 2012 and 2016,

they were distributed to farmers in several

West African countries.

“I started cultivation on a small plot,”

says Kassongo Sylvie from Burkina Faso,

one of the first producers of the new

breeds. “Five years later, I have expanded

production to two hectares. My earnings

have increased tremendously.”

“Before the introduction of these

varieties, plantain cultivation was rare in

Burkina Faso. Now, we have a thriving

sector,” says Paul Iboudou, Research

Technician at the Environment and

Agricultural Research Institute of

Burkina Faso.

In the mid 1990s, IITA began breeding

the Matooke – a green cooking >

“The banana is the most difficult crop to breed

due to an evolutionary process that has led to

reports predicting its imminent extinction”

Harvesting bananas

The process of harvesting bananas is very labour-intensive because they

have to be handpicked and each bunch is quite heavy. It’s also sweaty work

as bananas need a warm climate (and fertile soil) to grow well and produce

a good yield.

Alamy


46 / BUSINESS / Bananas

Tips / TRAVEL / 47

BANANA STATISTICS

1 – The importance of the banana as a

food crop in Rwanda compared to other

food crops

15 – East Africans consume 15 times

more bananas than the rest of the

world

200 – The amount of bananas (in kgs)

consumed, on average, by Ugandans

each year

1,000 – The approximate number of

banana varieties

2.4 MILLION – The area in

hectares that’s covered by banana

plantations in East and Central Africa

90 MILLION – The number

of resource-poor farmers who are

dependent on bananas in Africa

4.3 BILLION – The estimated US$

value of the whole banana economy in

East and Central Africa

44.1 BILLION – The global

economic value of bananas in US$

banana – in partnership with NARO.

“We have made exciting progress, and we

now have six potential hybrids, dubbed

NARITAs, which are currently undergoing

field evaluation in East Africa,” says

Robooni Tumuhimbise, Senior Plant

Breeder at NARO. “We are using our

existing testing network across the country

to test the aspects that define a good

banana for consumers; namely taste,

texture and aroma, and colour retention

once cooked.”

The current banana production in

Uganda is around 15 tonnes per hectare,

compared to a potential of 60-70 tonnes.

It’s hoped that the new hybrids, combined

with better agronomic practices,

will help to reduce this gap.

“This initiative merges with our

ambitions as producers for more

successful banana production,” says

Kataratambi Silver, a member of the

Uganda Banana Producers Cooperative

Union. “It will help to address one of the

major challenges we face: the short lifespan

of our plantations, which succumb

to diseases in less than four years, way

before we are able to make any profit.”

In partnership with the Tanzania

Agricultural Research Institute, the

project established the first-ever banana

breeding facility in Tanzania. Situated

at the Nelson Mandela African Institute

of Science and Technology in Arusha,

the facility was established in 2014 and

focusses on Mchare, a type of cooking

banana. Over the past five years, the

necessary infrastructure has been established

and progress has been made in

the initial research stages.

The hybrids developed in Uganda

and Tanzania will be disseminated for the

benefit of farmers across Sub-Saharan

Africa. But, a key challenge remains in

accelerating the slow business of breeding

bananas. And this is where the true

benefit of partnerships is most visible.

Researchers in the Czech Republic and

the US are using state-of-the-art techniques

and equipment to unravel the

genetic coding of the Mchare and

Matooke varieties, while in Australia,

researchers are identifying genetic markers

that will enable breeders in Africa to

rapidly scan a vast array of plants for

resistance. Meanwhile, partners in India,

Malaysia and Brazil are providing

banana material for use in breeding, while

a specialised laboratory in South Africa is

screening plants for resistance and mitigating

against the very possible threat of

Fusarium wilt tropical race 4 (TR4), one

“The hybrids developed in Uganda and

Tanzania will ultimately be disseminated for

the benefit of farmers across the region”

of the world’s most dangerous crop

diseases.

“It took 27 years for us to deliver

new banana varieties to farmers in West

Africa,” says Swennen. “The new technologies,

network and tools we have

accumulated at Breeding Better Bananas

will enable us to shorten this time span

by between 5 and 10 years.”

As he concludes, the Breeding Better

Bananas project involves a continuous

fight against time; requiring a daily focus

on the long term and ability not to lose

the vision or become sidetracked.

Text: Raissa Velano de Sant’ana Image: Getty Images

Table Mountain

With its unusual shape, the flat-topped

Table Mountain is befittingly one of the

New 7 Wonders of Nature. At this

prominent landmark, there are lots

of stimulating activities to experience.

Here are our favourites.

Cableway to Heaven

This cableway is one of a kind,

as it is the only one in Africa with

a rotating cable car. The ride

carries approximately one million

visitors each year to the Table

Mountain plateau, where they can

venture out into nature. Although

experts can’t seem to agree on

the mountain’s height – it ranges

from 1,085 to 1,087 m above sea

level – one thing is crystal-clear:

the awe-inspiring viewpoint is

definitely worth the ride.

Abseiling Adventure

The breathtaking views from

the top of Table Mountain are

impressive, no doubt about it.

However, if you’re in for a thrill,

there’s one way of getting an

even better view: by going down

the side of a sheer cliff and

enjoying the landscape while

hanging from a rope. So, harness

up and drop down; if you dare.

Nature Walk

Adjacent to the eastern slopes

of Table Mountain is The

Kirstenbosch National Botanical

Garden. Not only does it offer

an incredible natural area that

can be explored via a number

of walks and trails, the garden

is also a perfect setting for

art. With numerous outdoor

exhibitions as well as indoor art

shows, it’s a feast for the eyes.

On top of that, you can also spot

a wide variety of indigenous

birds, reptiles, frogs and

invertebrates here.

Oudekraal Beach

Tucked away in a cove is one of

Cape Town’s best-kept secrets,

Oudekraal Beach. As part of

the Table Mountain National

Park area, this secluded beach

offers a unique experience. Here,

you can take a dip in the calm

waters, do some snorkelling

or take a diving lesson.

Furthermore, the beach offers

a stunning landscape that will

serve as the perfect background

for an Instagram picture.


48 / TRAVEL / New York

TRAVEL / 49

5

Falling

1

2

for New

York

Autumn in New York is a blissful time of

year for both BODY AND SOUL. The

city is transformed by cool breezes and

brilliantly coloured foliage, and cultural

events and festivals abound.

3

4

6

7

Alamy, Richard Koek, Nicole Franzen, Nikolas Koenig, Getty Images, Stocksy, Robert Harding

text Sarah Khan

NEW YORKERS are famous for their strong opinions, and this

applies to their feelings about the seasons, too. Winter has plenty of

charm; city dwellers love how the snow softens New York’s rougher edges

and the way the streets twinkle under canopies of festive Christmas

lights. Other residents eagerly await the spring, when the frost finally

melts away and they can descend on sidewalk cafés to soak up the sun at

long last. The sweltering summer months, with an intense heat that bakes

the streets and humidity that clings to the air, might be less loved; but

there’s still something to be said for quiet weekends spent enjoying the >

1. Underneath the 1 Line near 125th Street, Manhattan 2. The Statue of Liberty

3. Waffles in Manhattan 4. Ice skaters in Central Park 5. The famous “cronuts” of

Dominique Ansel Bakery 6. The Terrace restaurant at Times Square EDITION

7. The iconic Brooklyn Bridge


50 / TRAVEL / New York

TRAVEL / 51

“After a fun, hot summer

in the city, October

is simply magical, with

cool autumn nights and

vibrant fall foliage

beginning to pop in

Central Park”

city when it seems to empty out of residents who decamp to the Hamptons,

Connecticut or Europe. But it’s autumn, when the turning leaves

cast a golden glow all over New York’s five boroughs, that has the most

passionate fans.

IN LIVING COLOUR

“After a fun, hot summer in the city, October is simply magical, with

cool autumn nights and vibrant fall foliage beginning to pop in Central

Park, Prospect Park and Van Cortlandt Park,” says Jon Ortiz, a pro-skater

turned skate-school owner and photographer, who grew up in Manhattan’s

Lower East Side. “Kids are back in school by now and the adults are ready

to play.”

Perhaps the most beloved October pastime is strolling through iconic

Central Park, when its 340 hectares are cloaked in vivid shades of orange

and leaves float lazily to the ground, crunching softly underfoot. But

there are plenty of other ways to enjoy the crisp autumn breeze, such as

wandering through the Union Square Greenmarket, where you’ll find an

impressive array of fresh, autumnal produce.

FIELD TRIPS

You’ll do yourself a great disservice if you spend all your time in

Manhattan, however; be sure to venture out into the boroughs, too. “One

of my favourite ways to enjoy autumn in New York is to go on a bridge

walk,” says Brooklyn-based artist Annika Connor. “See the best views of

the city by walking from Brooklyn to Manhattan via the Brooklyn, Manhattan

or Williamsburg bridges. Remember: If you only plan to walk one

way, start in Brooklyn so you walk towards the skyline.”

For a completely different view of the skyline, Connor recommends

taking the ferry to the Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass

(DUMBO) neighbourhood, where you can enjoy a day at Brooklyn Park

or ride on Jane’s Carousel. While you’re there, you can grab a bite to eat

and then walk back across one of the bridges. “Sunset is the prettiest time

to go,” says Connor. “The transition from day to night is breathtaking.”

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

If you’re even more ambitious, consider a day trip out of the city. The

Storm King Art Center in the Hudson Valley, about 100 km away from

New York, is a sprawling sculpture garden with artworks by Sol LeWitt,

Roy Lichtenstein, Zhang Huan, Alyson Shotz, Richard Serra and many

more, spread out over 200 hectares.

While it’s a great place to head for a picnic any time of year, it’s

especially popular in autumn, when the turning leaves surrounding the

massive installations add another layer of visual splendour. >

1. Yellow taxis line up on a Manhattan street 2. Pastis in the Meatpacking District

3. Broadway, Manhattan 4. The Hudson River, seen from the Chelsea Piers 5. Brooklyn

Bridge 6. Halloween in the city 7. The Halal Guys on West 53rd Street 8. A New York

school bus 9. Glass-ceilinged gallery at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

EAT & DRINK

Pastis

This longtime celebrity favourite

was shuttered for a few years, but

recently reopened with a bang in

the Meatpacking District.

52 Gansevoort Street

pastisnyc.com

Atomix

The 10-course Korean tasting

menu is pricey, but well worth it.

104 East 30th Street

atomixnyc.com

Adda Indian Canteen

Don’t be deterred by its unlikely

setting in the neighbourhood of

Long Island City – Adda is one

of the city’s best new Indian

restaurants.

31-31 Thomson Avenue,

Long Island City

addanyc.com

Coast and Valley

Head to Greenpoint in Brooklyn

for this chic, California-inspired

restaurant and wine bar.

587 Manhattan Avenue, Brooklyn

coastandvalleywine.com

Lilia

Getting a table at this Italian

favourite in Williamsburg, Brooklyn,

is quite a feat, but if you get lucky,

you won’t be disappointed.

567 Union Avenue, Brooklyn

lilianewyork.com

Ester Gebuis, Richard Koek, Unsplash: Louise Palmberg, Stocksy, Robert Bye, Chris Barbalis, Monika Kozub, Stocksy

2

3

1 4

5 8

6 7 9


52 / TRAVEL / New York

TRAVEL / 53

HOTELS

Times Square EDITION

This new addition to lively Times Square brings

a level of chic rarely associated with the touristcentric

neighbourhood.

20 Times Square

editionhotels.com/times-square

Arlo NoMad

A chic hotel with a great rooftop in the central,

increasingly cool NoMad neighbourhood.

11 East 31st Street

arlohotels.com/arlo-nomad

CULTURE VULTURES

October is also when some of the city’s premier events are on. Here

are just a few you should embrace this month:

1

Hoxton

A buzzy new hotel in the hip Williamsburg district

of Brooklyn, as popular with locals as it is with

tourists.

97 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn

thehoxton.com/new-york/williamsburg/hotels

Mandarin Oriental

Set on the 35th to 54th floors of a skyscraper

above Columbus Circle, this hotel has stunning

Central Park views.

80 Columbus Circle

mandarinoriental.com/new-york/manhattan/

luxury-hotel

Archtober

Architecture buffs will love being in town during Archtober, a monthlong

event spanning all of New York’s five boroughs, filled with tours, lectures

and special events. “Archtober is New York City’s preeminent celebration

of all things architecture; the Center for Architecture organises an

action-packed roster of panel discussions, boat tours and site visits that

cater to building enthusiasts from all walks of life,” says Ryan Waddoups,

news editor at design magazine Surface. “Best of all, many of the city’s

hidden architectural gems only open their doors to the public during

Archtober; it’s a fantastic opportunity to see something new and unexpected.”

If you’re looking to dive into the city’s celebrated design community,

you couldn’t come at a better time. “The beauty of Archtober is

that the programming is so multifaceted and diverse, there’s something

for everyone,” says Waddoups.

2 3

4

7

5 6 8

Nickolas Koenig, Richard Kok, Unsplash: Michaela Parente, Gregory Makamian, Mateusz Majewski, Luca Bravo, Zac Ong, Stocksy

OUT AND ABOUT

Storm King Art Center is about two hours

away from New York City by car, or you can

get there by train or bus. Open Wednesdays,

Thursdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5:30

p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 10 a.m.

to 8 p.m.; admission is US$18 for adults and

US$8 for ages 5 to 18.

1 Museum Road, New Windsor

stormking.org

Archtober is on throughout the month of

October, with a host of lectures, architecture

tours, studio visits, film screenings and panel

discussions.

2019.archtober.org

New York City Wine and Food Festival

runs from 10-13 October. Tickets sell out

quickly, so buy them in advance. Choose

from culinary demos, celebrity-chef-hosted

dinners, cocktail evenings and more.

nycwff.org

Halloween night – 31 October – is when the

eagerly awaited annual Village Halloween

Parade takes place. Dress up in a fun

costume and join in (sign up first), or line up

along the route, from Spring Street to 16th

Street on Sixth Avenue, to watch the fun.

Halloween-nyc.com

Kenya Airways operates non-stop flights

to John F. Kennedy International Airport

in New York from Nairobi.

New York City Wine And Food Festival

Food fanatics, rejoice! While New York is one of the world’s great culinary

cities, the dining scene is especially electric from 10-13 October this

year. “The New York City Wine and Food Festival is incredible,” says

Ortiz. “There are tastings held all over the city, with various celebrities

and world-class chefs participating over the four days of events.” You can

take a macaron-making masterclass at Ladurée, guzzle massive steins of

beer with celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern at Oktoberfest, join Giada De

Laurentiis for a full-fledged Italian Sunday feast, try a steak and whisky

pairing, and so much more. Check out the website in advance for tickets,

though, as many events sell out.

Halloween

How to describe Halloween in New York? It’s definitely something best

experienced first-hand. Fortunately, Halloween festivities seem to go on

for weeks here, and aren’t just limited to a few hours on 31 October.

Homes and stores are decorated with spooky abandon, elaborate haunted

houses pop up across the city, and house parties and themed nights at

clubs happen in the weeks leading up to Halloween. Be warned: riding the

subway surrounded by people in outrageous, gory costumes is par for the

course this month.

On Halloween itself, many of the more residential parts of New York

– say, the brownstones of the Upper West Side in Manhattan or Park

Slope in Brooklyn – vie to outdo each other with elaborate decorations,

and they’re a favourite for trick-or-treating children. But the grown-ups

love to have fun, too; and for that, you need to head to Manhattan’s

Greenwich Village for the epic annual Village Halloween Parade. “New

Yorkers of all kinds let loose and happily show our creative colours,” says

Ortiz. “I’ve attended the Halloween Parade for the last 20 years, dressing

as everything from a werewolf to Mickey Mantle; always on my rollerblades

to add to the flavour!”

1. FDNY at 138th Street, the Bronx 2. The Guggenheim Museum 3. Times Square by

night 4. Enjoying the early snow 5. Manhattan traffic lights 6. Radio City Music Hall

7. Paradise Club at Times Square EDITION 8. Cycling on the Williamsburg Bridge


54 / HERITAGE / Maasai Shuka

HERITAGE / 55

THE FABRIC

OF SOCIETY

The bright, decorative fabric known as THE

SHUKA is synonymous with the Maasai of

East Africa. Versatile, comfortable and practical,

it began life as everyday wear but its use has

since extended far beyond that.

text Joseph Maina

Mirjam Bleeker

The Life Traveller


56 / HERITAGE / Maasai Shuka

HERITAGE / 57

A model presents

a creation by US

designer Marc Jacobs

for Louis Vuitton

during his springsummer

2012 men’s

fashion collection

show, on June 23,

2011 in Paris.

of the Maasai shuka in their designs,”

says Isaac Ole Tialolo, Chairman of

MIPI. “And it’s not just with Louis

Vuitton, but with various other brands,

too.” And, according to Ole Tialolo,

negotiations between MIPI and Louis

Vuitton have now been running for the

past two years.

More recently, CNN’s Richard Quest

brought the shuka to a global audience in

his 2018 tour of Kenya. In a photo from

his trip, Quest is seen hobnobbing with

Maasai warriors while wearing a redand-black-checked

shuka over jeans and

safari jacket. Another image shows him

flanked by Kenya’s Cabinet Secretary for

Tourism, Najib Balala; both men are

sporting the famous garment. The two

are also pictured sitting on safari chairs,

enjoying a drink in the grassy plains of

Nairobi National Park. A Maasai shuka

is spread over a table in front of them,

and the iconic Nairobi skyline is in the

background.

THE COLOUR OF POWER

“Maasai shuka” is the commonly

used Swahili term for a garment that’s

known as Orkarasha (the male version)

or Irkarasha (the female version) in the

Maasai language. “The Maasai are a

very gender-sensitive community, and

this shows in every aspect of their lives,

including dress,” says Johnstone Ole

Turana, a Nairobi-based journalist who

hails from the community. The difference

between the women’s and men’s

shuka is mostly colour: the men’s

version is usually deep red because

among the Maasai, that colour is >

Alamy

Alamy

ANP

“The Maasai have largely defied

the trappings of modernity and

urban living, opting to retain their

distinct nomadic heritage”

A common thread

Though the Maasai shuka is available

in various colours, the garment is

usually received as plain material at

the factory. It’s then put through an

industrial process, where the dye is

introduced and patterns are woven in.

The shuka may be made from various

materials but acrylic is dominant,.

They vary in colour, ranging from red

to blue, green, brown, yellow and

purple. Red is particularly popular.

Shukas are made in either light or

heavy form, with a standard size of

150 x 200 cm.

FOR MANY of us, the word

“Maasai” conjures up images of a

famous African tribe: formidable warriors

known for their colourful shuka

garments, their energetic jumps in ritual

dances and their lavish jewellery. The

vibrant shuka’s fame is spreading.

“There are many ways to use the

Maasai shuka,” says Patrick Kome, a

salesman with Ken Knit, a Kenyan firm

that manufactures the shuka. “Other

than its original function as a dress item,

it can be used for bedding, as a curtain,

a camping blanket, a towel or as a

decorative cover for furniture. The

possibilities are endless.”

Wan Fam Clothing, a Kenyan fashion

label, is another brand to capitalise

on the enormous potential of the Maasai

shuka fabric, producing a vast range of

shuka-themed clothing, backpacks and

other accessories. And it seems as though

the more it’s produced, the more people

are becoming aware of it; the garment

has even featured on television in the US.

Talk-show host Oprah Winfrey raised the

shuka’s profile in November 2014 when

she slung a comfy, red-and-black-checked

blanket over her shoulders during one of

her shows.

HAUTE COUTURE

The wider fashion world, too, has

caught up with the Maasai shuka, resulting

in ingenious masterpieces that have

caught the attention of fashionistas

across the globe; notably, Louis Vuitton’s

Spring Summer 2012 collection, which

was inspired by the iconic red fabric.

Louis Vuitton’s decision to showcase

its Maasai shuka-themed designs has

triggered a push by an NGO, the Maasai

Intellectual Property Initiative (MIPI),

which operates in Kenya and Tanzania,

to protect the cultural heritage of the

Maasai community and champion for

their rights whenever cultural icons associated

with the community are used for

commercial – or other – gain.

“We’re in negotiations with [Louis

Vuitton] to get them to acknowledge use

The Life Traveller

The Maasai shuka is also used to create these

cloth earrings.


58 / HERITAGE / Maasai Shuka

HERITAGE / 59

“The men’s shuka

is usually deep red

because...that

colour is associated

with masculinity”

associated with masculinity. “Red is a

special colour for men because the tribe

traditionally created the colour for their

shields by mixing clay with red fruit sap

or cattle blood,” says Ole Turana. “And

the men colour their hair red with clay

and red ochre. Red is the colour of

blood. That explains why Maasai warriors

– known as moran – mostly wear

the deep-red shuka. Women may also

wear the shuka in red – there are no

restrictions – but they tend to avoid it.”

To the Maasai, the shuka is a unisex

item of everyday wear, worn by all ages.

For the average Maasai, wearing it is a

straightforward affair. “It’s simply slung

over one shoulder in a knot,” adds Ole

Turana. “A second shuka is strapped over

the other shoulder, with one crossing

over the other.”

CULTURAL EXCHANGE

“A woman getting married may get

a shuka as a present from the groom,

often through an elder who presents the

bride,” says Ole Tialolo. “If you’re a

young man about to marry my daughter,

you may present me with a shuka, along

with the cows issued as part of the dowry.

Often, the bride may have to supply a

number of shukas to the bridal party.

The shuka has also been exchanged as a

sign of peace.”

“Many organisations are exploiting

the shuka,” says Ole Tialolo. “We would

wish that such organisations would

consult the owners – the Maasai people

– before using the garment for profit or

other purposes. Anyone can reach the

community through us.”

“We would wish that organisations

would consult the Maasai people

before using the garment for profit”

The Life Traveller

Origins of an icon

The shuka’s origins go back to

the late 1800s, when the Maasai

traded animal skins in East Africa

with merchants from the Indian

subcontinent. The Maasai would hunt

lions and leopards, and trade the

animal skins for cowrie shells and salt.

Before the shuka, and inspired by

the Indians’ use of the garment, the

Maasai would wear clothes made

from animal skins. By switching them

for the shuka, the Maasai landed on

a sartorial gem that has arguably

become one of East Africa’s most

prominent cultural icons. The shuka

is now deeply entrenched in Maasai

culture.

Dreamstime

Mirjam Bleeker


ENTERTAINMENT / 61

Kenya Airways

offers its passengers

complimentary inflight

entertainment.

The programme will

vary in different aircraft

types. Check your

screen to view the

selection on your flight.

Relax & Enjoy

Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,

African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and

games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.

Aquaman

(read more on the next page)

“My parents were of two different worlds,

and I was a product of the love that they shared.

A son of land and a son of the seas”

– Arthur Curry –

Aquaman

MOVIE RATINGS

G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13

R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval NR Not rated Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.


62 / ENTERTAINMENT

ENTERTAINMENT / 63

New Releases

New Releases

Aquaman

ACTION

Aquaman is the sixth instalment

in the DC Extended Universe.

It’s also the first feature-length

film to be based on the character

of Aquaman and boasts the

accolade of highest grossing DC

release.

The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part (2019) ANIMATION

It’s been five years since everything was awesome and the citizens are facing a

new threat: Lego Duplo invaders from outer space who destroy everything.

Chris Pratt, Elizabeth Banks. PG, 107 mins, Director: Mike Mitchell

The Hate U Give (2018) CRIME

Starr witnesses the fatal shooting of her best friend, Khalil, at the hands of

a police officer.

Amandla Stenberg. PG-13, 133 mins, Director: George Tillman Jr.

Head Full of Honey (2018) COMEDY

A man suffering from Alzheimer’s embarks on a final road trip with his

granddaughter.

Emily Mortimer, Matt Dillon. PG-13, 128 mins, Director: Til Schweiger

A star-studded cast and spectacular

visual effects make this film an aquatic

adventure of epic proportions.

Thomas Curry’s life is forever altered

when he unwittingly rescues Atlanna,

the queen of Atlantis, during a storm.

Charmed by her ethereal beauty and

strange customs, Thomas falls for

Atlanna and she for him. They have a

son soon after, whom they name

Arthur. The boy inherits his mother’s

aquatic powers and her ability to

commune with marine life forms.

While Arthur is still a child, Atlanna

is forced to abandon her family and

return to the ocean. Arthur grows up

to be a powerful and skilled warrior,

but renounces his Atlantean heritage

when he learns of his mother’s execution

by her own people.

Arthur can’t escape his destiny, however,

and in time he reluctantly takes

up the mantle of hero in order to

protect his people.

Dive in with Aquaman on board

Kenya Airways now!

Crazy Rich Asians (2018) COMEDY

This contemporary romantic comedy, based on the global bestseller, follows

New Yorker Rachel Chu to Singapore to meet her boyfriend’s family.

Constance Wu, Michelle Yeoh. PG-13, 120 mins, Director: Jon M. Chu

Stan & Ollie (2018) BIOGRAPHY

Laurel and Hardy, the world’s most famous comedy duo, attempt to reignite

their film careers as they embark on a gruelling theatre tour.

John C. Reilly, Steve Coogan. PG, 98 mins, Director: Jon S. Baird

Second Act (2018) COMEDY

A big-box store worker reinvents her life and shows Madison Avenue what

street smarts can do.

Jennifer Lopez, Vanessa Hudgens. PG-13, 103 mins, Director: Peter Segal

Jason Momoa, Amber Heard. PG-13,

143 mins, Director: James Wan

Did you know?

~ Jason Momoa specifically requested Temuera Morrison for the role

of Arthur’s father because Morrison is one of Momoa’s acting idols.

~ Director Jason Wan revealed that he had a choice between

directing The Flash and Aquaman but chose the latter because

Aquaman is an underdog.

Indian Horse (2017) DRAMA

Follows the life of Canadian First Nations boy Saul Indian Horse as he survives

school and life amid the racism of the 1970s.

Sladen Peltier. PG-13, 101 mins, Director: Stephen S. Campanelli

The Mule (2018) CRIME

A 90-year-old horticulturist and Korean War veteran turns drug mule for a

Mexican cartel.

Clint Eastwood, Bradley Cooper. R, 116 mins, Director: Clint Eastwood

The Kid Who Would Be King (2019) ADVENTURE

A band of kids embark on an epic quest to thwart a medieval menace.

Louis Ashbourne Serkis, Tom Taylor, Rebecca Ferguson. PG, 120 mins,

Director: Joe Cornish


64 / ENTERTAINMENT

ENTERTAINMENT / 65

African Highlights

Adventure

Jackie and the Genie

Love, Food and Everything In Between

Batman (1989)

Batman meets his most dangerous foe, the Joker, who is wreaking havoc

throughout Gotham City and posing a threat of worldwide destruction.

Michael Keaton, Jack Nicholson. PG-13, 126 mins, Director: Tim Burton

Godzilla (2014)

The world is beset by the appearance of monstrous creatures, but one of

them may be the only one who can save humanity.

Aaron Taylor-Johnson. PG-13, 115 mins, Director: Gareth Edwards

What the Heart Sees

A Lot Like Love

Film

Picks from

the continent

We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,

including drama and comedy.

A Lot Like Love (2018) ROMANCE

A great career, wealth, beauty and brains; Jasmine seems to have it all. But

she’s missing one thing - a man!

Annie Macaulay-Idibia, Lilian Esoro. NR, 95 mins, Director: Tissy Nnachi

Breaking Rules (2018) DRAMA

Martins and Vivian fall captive to their emotions, laying down their guards

as they begin a relationship. This leads to a series of events that will

define them forever.

Seun Akindele, Yvonne Jegede Fawole, Olakunle Fawole. PG-13, 102

mins. Director: Biodun Stephen.

Fantastic Beasts And Where To Find Them (2016)

The adventures of Newt Scamander in New York’s secret community of

witches and wizards 70 years before Harry Potter reads his book.

Eddie Redmayne. PG-13, 133 mins, Director: David Yates

Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets (2002)

Harry ignores warnings not to return to Hogwarts, only to find the school

plagued by mysterious attacks and a strange voice haunting him.

Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint. PG, 87 mins, Director: Chris Columbus

Jackie and the Genie (2018) COMEDY

A young girl with a difficult life in Uganda meets a genie who gives her

magic powers that change her life.

Mutebi Farouke, Yasin Lubowa, Patricia Nabakooza. NR, 120 mins,

Director: Andrew Wagaba

Ehi’s Bitters (2018) DRAMA

It is said that time heals all wounds, but the same cannot be said for

Ehisoje. Can she find her way through all the chaos?

Deyemi Okanlawon, Joshua Richard, Enado Odigie. PG-13, 115 mins.

Director: Biodun Stephen.

Love, Food and Everything in Between (2018)

DRAMA

Trapped in a metaphysical plane, an ambitious young man gets a vantage

view of his life as he struggles to make sense of his predicament.

Yemi Blaq, Mofe Duncan, Deyemi Okanlawon. NR, 78 mins, Director:

Remi Ibinola

Baby Palaver (2018) DRAMA

For a girl who had shut out love for a long time, one and a half men is too

much to let in all at once.

Desmond Elliot, Uche Jombo Rodriguez, Selassie Ibrahim. PG-13, 85

mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.

What the Heart Sees (2018) ROMANCE

A love story set in the 1970s in which a spinster who, against the social

norm, falls in love with a charming, much younger man.

Francis Duru, Eucharia Anunobi, Joshua Richard. NR, 119 mins, Director:

Chris Eneaji Eneng

The Village (2018) DRAMA

An old family rivalry over a land dispute becomes a hindrance between

John and Olanna. But an act of love might put an end to the dispute.

Cassandra Odita, Emma Ayalogu, Eddie Watson. PG-13, 137 mins.

Director: Akin-Tijani Balogun.

Charlie And The Chocolate Factory (2005)

A young boy wins a tour through the most magnificent chocolate factory in

the world, led by the world’s most unusual candy maker.

Johnny Depp, Freddie Highmore. PG, 116 mins, Director: Tim Burton

The Lord Of The Rings: The Fellowship Of The Ring (2001)

A meek Hobbit from the Shire and eight companions set out on a journey to

destroy the powerful One Ring and save Middle-earth.

Elijah Wood, Ian McKellan. PG-13, 178 mins, Director: Peter Jackson


66 / ENTERTAINMENT

ENTERTAINMENT / 67

TV

Music Channel explained: The Channel number for

your favourite music programmes is shown at the end

of each description. It’s determined by the aircraft type,

so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.

Please check the safety card in front of you.

Spotlight on

David

Bowie

The musician, actor and artist

was one of the most innovative

and influential minds of all time.

Audio

Ghosted

Africa’s Hunters

In a career spanning over 50 years,

David Bowie never stopped creating.

Songs such as Life on Mars?, Rebel

Rebel and Ashes to Ashes are just a few

examples of an endlessly original output.

We can only hope that his alien

rockstar alter-ego, Ziggy Stardust, is

watching over us from above.

Fight Stars World News, Brilliant Ideas Riverdale

Small Screen

Programmes

& Series

We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports

and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.

Comedy

Ghosted, Season 1, Episodes 1 & 2 Leroy and Max are recruited by the

Bureau Underground, a top-secret government agency, to find a missing agent.

Young Sheldon, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4 When George Sr is rushed to the

hospital, Meemaw comes to babysit.

Powerless, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4 When Van’s incompetence costs the

team a client, Emily hopes to make a deal with the people of Atlantis. Meanwhile

Van’s father sets him on a path of redemption.

Last Man Standing, Season 6, Episodes 1 & 2 Kyle leaves the loading dock

door open, allowing a bear to wander into Outdoor Man.

Sports

Up Close With, Season 1, Episode 46 Upbeat, glamorous

documentary series exploring the luxurious lifestyle of the world’s

biggest sports stars.

Pure Outdoor, Season 1, Episode 1 A look at the eco-sports that some

people embrace in their leisure time.

Fight Stars, Season 1, Episode 2 The best combat-sport stars in the ring,

including boxer Anthony Joshua and UFC’s Ronda Rousey.

Discovery

My First Trip: New York City Lonely Planet Destination Editor MaSovaida

Morgan talks through her first-ever trip to New York City as a 4th-grade

student.

Welcome To Lake Geneva & Vaud Lonely Planet’s guide to Lake Geneva

and Vaud.

Welcome To Rome Lonely Planet’s guide to Rome.

Africa’s Hunters, Season 2, Episode 1 In the heart of Zambia’s Luangwa

Valley lies one of the best leopard territories going. It's also the domain of an

audacious young female called Olimba.

News

The Immortals, Season 1, Episode 6 The careers of sport’s greatest icons

are celebrated in this stunning 52-part series.

World News, Brilliant Ideas A winner of the Hugo Boss Prize for contemporary

art, Rirkrit Tiravanija is seen as one of the world’s most influential artists.

The David Rubenstein Show: Peer To Peer Conversations Steve Ballmer,

former CEO of Microsoft, talks about meeting Bill Gates at Harvard, his early

years at Microsoft and subsequent rise to CEO in 2000.

Drama

Bones, Season 12, Episodes 1 & 9 Brennan has been kidnapped by her old

assistant Zack, so Booth and the rest of the team have to find her.

Major Crimes, Season 6, Episodes 1 & 2 Three 15-year-old boys vanish

during a school field trip causing Asstistant Chief Mason to consider the

case a critical missing for Major Crimes.

Riverdale, Season 2, Episodes 3 & 4 Archie takes matters into his own

hands and an unexpected turn of events leads the town to realise their

darkest chapter may be far from over.

The Flash, Season 3, Episodes 4 & 5 Mirror Master joins his old partner,

Top, and looks to even the score with Snart.

KQ Radio (with guest DJ)

Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s biggest

hits. B737 CH. 3

African Classics

The best tunes from classic African artists, from

Davido to DJ Maphorisa. B737 CH. 4

Jazz

With stunning tracks from Van Morrison to Billie

Holiday, this highly diverse collection is a mustlisten

for the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7

Pop

The biggest pop hits of the moment, with catchy

favourites from Noah Cyrus and many more.

B737 CH. 8

Dancehall/Reggae

Enjoy a fusion of dancehall and reggae sounds,

featuring a range of diverse artists such as Ziggy

Marley and Prince Buster. B737 CH. 6

Classical

Sit back and relax with the awe-inspiring

compositions of Martin Stadtfeld and Lang Lang

in this classical collection. B737 CH. 5

Easy Listening

Unwind and take it easy with laid-back sounds

from Frank Sinatra, Céline Dion and many more.

B737 CH. 10

Classic Rock

Rock out to classics from David Bowie, The

Kinks, Bruce Springsteen and many more. B787

“I don’t know where I’m

going from here, but I promise

it won’t be boring.”

– David Bowie –

At Madison Square Garden on his 50th birthday

Getty Images


68 / ENTERTAINMENT

Kids

Animation

THE LEGO MOVIE 2:

The Second

Part

The Lego Movie 2: The Second

Part is the fourth movie in the

LEGO Movie franchise and sequel

to global box-office phenomenon

The Lego Movie.

Chris Pratt and Elizabeth Banks reprise

their roles from the previous film and are

joined by new cast members including

Stephanie Beatriz and Maya Rudolph.

This computer-animated adventure

follows our heroes as they embark on a

quest to save their town.

Film and TV

The Ones to Watch

These are the most popular films from our selection.

If you’ve already seen these, take your pick

from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids’ films.

X-Men: Evolution

Boom Boom flirts with Nightcrawler,

and then gets a visit from her criminal

father who wants her to commit

a crime for him.

Season 2, Episode 2

New Looney Tunes

Sir Littlechin the Knight is on a

quest to capture a dragon, but not if

Bugs has anything to do with it.

Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4

Lippy The Lion &

Hardy Har Har

The cartoon adventures of a lion

(Lippy) and his hyena friend (Hardy

Har Har).

Season 1, Episodes 9, 10 & 11

Tinga Tinga Tales

Hen borrows Eagle’s needle to show

Peacock she can be more than plain

brown.

Season 1, Episodes 5 & 6


SAFARI NJEMA / 71

Rome is thought to have been

founded in 753 BC.

✈ To book direct flights to Rome,

go to kenya-airways.com.

Safari Njema

Getty Images

4 reasons to visit

Autumn in Rome

With art, architecture and culture that date

back almost 3,000 years, it’s no wonder

Rome is one of the most popular travel

destinations. But the Eternal City is even

more impressive during fall. Here’s why.


Kenya Airways

launched a carbonoffset

programme in

2011. It was the first

African airline to do so.

News

SAFARI NJEMA / 73

✈ Kenya Airways is aligned to the

National Wildlife Strategy 2030.

Top reasons

Why Rome?

Fun for everyone

1 October in Rome means festivals and events in virtually every

corner of the city. You can enjoy innovative theatre and dance

performances during the Romaeuropa Festival or admire contemporary

visual art during Rome Art Week. For the true movie enthusiast, there’s

Rome Film Fest, while the EurHop Roma Beer Festival is just the thing

for a taste of Italy’s finest craft beers.

The perfect climate

2 Everyone knows that autumn is the best season for a city trip to the

Italian capital. Summers in Rome can be quite hot, and you’re bound to

catch the occasional shower during winter. But between these seasons,

the weather is quite idyllic: temperatures are pleasant, and you can

enjoy the city and dramatically coloured sunsets to the fullest.

Tantalising tastes

3 You’re in for a treat if you visit Rome at this time of year. Not only is

it peak season for Italy’s celebrated white truffles, it’s also harvesting

time for many other delicious vegetables. From sweet pumpkin and

meaty porcini mushrooms to leafy vegetables like radicchio and rapini,

you’re sure to encounter the most mouth-watering combinations.

Peace and quiet

4 There’s no way to avoid crowds when travelling to one of the mostvisited

cities in the world, or is there? After the high season, most

tourists leave the city, school starts again, and Romans get back to

work. In autumn you’ll be able to stroll around to your heart’s content

without having to battle the throngs.

Getty Images

Employee extra

Celebrating Family

Family-friendly practices in the workplace are increasingly

being seen as a win for both employees and employers. Kenya

Airways recently celebrated family through a Family Fun Day.

Held at its headquarters in Embakasi, Nairobi, the event had

over 3,000 attendees, comprising staff members and their

families. Who wouldn’t enjoy the chance to give their loved

ones a glimpse of their place of work? It was a lively day with

lots of activities lined up for all. The airline also took the

opportunity to reward staff members who have consistently

gone above and beyond the call of duty to deliver exceptional

value to the organisation in their areas of operation. Guests

were later given a tour of the Dreamliner 787, no doubt

inspiring the next generation of aviation experts.


74 / SAFARI NJEMA

Want to know the carbon

emission of your flight?

Visit climatecare.org

and click on the

carbon calculator.

News

✈ Kenya Airways Pride Centre

is Africa’s premier aviation

training facility.

Grand tour

A Source of Pride

Kenya Airways recently had

the privilege of hosting guests,

including the media, on a tour of

the Kenya Airways Pride Centre

and the Maintenance, Repair and

Overhaul facility in Nairobi.

The tour gave guests the unique

opportunity to experience Africa’s

premier aviation training facility. The

Kenya Airways Pride Centre is the hub

of most of the airline’s learning activities,

including state-of-the-art features

such as modern simulators, as well as

top training and conferencing facilities.

The focus here is on incorporating

true “experiential learning”. The centre

was formally opened on July 26, 2007,

and is the go-to destination for anyone

aspiring to a career in aviation and

hospitality. It offers a range of courses

that prepare candidates for a strong

professional future in the aviation

industry. These courses cover technical

and development aspects of one’s career

and are open to anyone who is already

employed in aviation and hospitality,

in addition to secondary school and

college graduates. Over the years, it

has grown to not only offer training

to Kenya Airways, but also to other

corporates across the continent. The

primary goal is to enhance sustainable

development in Africa by offering

high-quality training courses tailored

to the needs of the customers. All

courses are conducted by well-selected

and highly qualified trainers. The tour

also included a visit to the Maintenance,

Repair and Overhaul facility, of which

Kenya Airways is an IATA-approved

service provider.

Kenya Airways/Kevin Gitimu


76 / SAFARI NJEMA

SAFARI NJEMA / 77

The Kenya Airways Pride

Centre also offers training

to staff of other

international airlines.

News

✈ Kenya Airways is working

with USAID to prevent the trafficking

of endangered species.

How many Miles did you

earn while flying to your

current destination? Find out

online with the Flying Blue

Miles Calculator.

Flying Blue

✈ There are new discounted reward

tickets, or Promo Awards, available

every month, saving you up

to 50 percent on Reward Miles.

Spotlight

Did You Know?

Check out these top facts and figures about

the Kenya Airways Pride Centre.

#1

Over 3,000 graduates since 2011.

#2

Capacity for 530 students at a time.

#3

322 courses provided in areas including

technical training, flight operations,

ground services and security.

#4

3 on-site flight simulators (Virtual

Procedures Trainers): Boeing 737-800,

Boeing 777-200ER and Embraer E170-190.

#5

In 2013, it became the first training

school in the world to simultaneously carry

three International Air Transport Association

(IATA) training accreditations.

#6

Recognised by IATA as the

“2015 Africa Top Performing IATA

Authorized Training Centre (ATC)”.

#7

2016 saw the launch of the centre’s

first e-learning programme.

Wildlife Works

Sustainable

Energy for Rural

Communities

The depletion of forests through woodfuel supplies

and the rising cost of electricity have prompted the

increased utilisation of renewable energy. Despite

the developments in clean and renewable energy

however, the cost of basic equipment such as solar

lamps is still too high for many rural families.

Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon offsetting partner,

collaborates with Zawadisha, a microlending organisation

that helps women in the Kasigau Corridor in Tsavo to access

renewable energy through an in-house financing and distribution

model. Through the programme, Zawadisha delivers

solar lamps, as well as water tanks and clean cookstoves to

villages in the region. The use of solar lamps has proven to be

effective in reducing reliance on kerosene, as well as increasing

productivity for businesses at night, and reducing health risks

from smoke inhalation.

The UN Sustainable Development Goal 7 calls for access to

affordable, reliable, sustainable and modern energy for all. We

believe that utilising microloans to access renewable energy

contributes to numerous health and environmental benefits.

~ Offset your carbon: With your Kenya Airways’ flight, you can help

to protect the environment. Simply tick a box when booking to offset

carbon emissions per journey. Funds go to initiatives in conjunction with

Wildlife Works. Visit wildlifeworks.com to find out more.

Membership levels

Redeem

Your

Miles!

The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn

Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways, Air France,

KLM, Joon, HOP!, Transavia, Aircalin, TAROM, SkyTeam

members, or other airline partners. You can redeem your Miles

to fly with Kenya Airways or upgrade your seats to Business

Class.

There are four membership levels in Flying Blue, and with each qualifying

flight you take, you gain XP (Experience Points). When you first enrol,

you will be awarded Explorer status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and

ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with Kenya Airways or one of

our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in you

earning more Miles and enjoying more benefits.

Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations operated by Kenya

Airways or our partner airlines. Go for an upgrade of your seat or pay

for your hotel stay or car rental with Miles. Your accumulated Miles are

valid for life as long as you take an eligible flight at least once every two

years. The total number of Miles credited to your account on Kenya Airways-marketed

flights is based on distance, the booking class earning

percentage, and the Elite bonus earning percentage, if applicable.

~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.

Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.

1

Exchange

Reward Miles can be redeemed for a flight to

any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to

Business Class.

2

Check

Your choice of destination determines the

number of Miles required for your Reward ticket.

Log on to flyingblue.com to check if you have

sufficient Miles for your choice. It is advisable

to have flexible date options in case your initial

choice is not available.

3

Redeem

Once you have made your choice, you can

redeem your Reward Miles by two methods:

A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centre in Nairobi

on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747

or +254 711 024747.

B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to Loyalty Program,

Flying Blue, Earn and Spend.

For further information, you can always contact us at

kenya-airways.custhelp.com.

4

Tax

Reward Miles do not cover tax charges. These

will need to be paid for separately and this can be

done so via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment

at any Kenya Airways office.

5

Easy Does It

Five steps to make

the most of your Miles.

Ticket

Once payment has been received, your e-ticket

will be sent to you by email.

~ Reward tickets are subject to seat availability. The

number of Miles required varies depending on available

booking class.

~ Miles can be used for flights, baggage and

upgrades to Business Class when you have already

purchased an Economy Class Kenya Airways ticket on

Y,B,M,U,K,H,L,Q,T,R,N, E & V classes for all routes. All

upgrades are subject to seat availability in Business Class.


SkyTeam operates more than

17,000 departures a day to 1,150+

destinations in 175+ countries, and

offers SkyTeam members 750+

lounges in airports worldwide.

SkyTeam

SAFARI NJEMA / 79

✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a

major airline alliance that consists of 19

carriers from 5 continents.

1966

Air France became the first

Western airline to serve the

People’s Republic of China

by establishing a link

between Paris

and Shanghai.

86

YEARS

50

YEARS

years of combined experience

60

YEARS

70

YEARS

71

YEARS

1972

Korean Air – the world’s largest

trans-Pacific airline – ran its first-ever

passenger route from Seoul to LA.

Milestones

Age Is More

Than Just A Number

This year is a very special one for SkyTeam because

KLM, one of our founding member airlines, marks its

centenary. The Dutch carrier is the oldest airline in the

world still operating under its original name.

1966

China Airlines

inaugurated the first

international route

from Taipei to Saigon.

1964

Alitalia carried Pope Paul VI

on his first papal pilgrimage

to the Holy Land – the first

pope to ever travel by plane.

1982

Garuda Indonesia were the first to

use the Forward Facing Crew Cockpit

concept with the Airbus A300-B4.

74

YEARS

69 1961

YEARS Aerolíneas Argentinas

completed the first

round-the-world trip in

a commercial aircraft.

96

YEARS

1994

MEA welcomed

Captain Rola Hoteit

– its first female pilot.

1957

Czech Airlines became the first

airline in the world to fly a route

exclusively with jet airliners,

between Prague and Moscow.

31

YEARS

1919

Founded in 1919, KLM

is the oldest airline still

operating under its

original name.

1997

China Eastern became the first Chinese

airline to list on the New York, Hong

Kong and Shanghai stock markets.

96

YEARS

2006

Aeroflot joined

SkyTeam.

If you combined the ages of all

19 of SkyTeam’s member airlines,

it would total an astounding

1,295 years: a reassuring figure

you can rely on. From being the

pioneers of industry to breaking

records and collecting world

“firsts”, here are just a few of our

members’ biggest achievements.

Aerolíneas Argentinas, established in

1949, secured its name in the history

books after it flew non-stop between

Madrid and Buenos Aires in 1966.

The flight took just over 11.5 hours,

setting a new world record.

Russia’s Aeroflot was the first airline

to introduce the Tupolev Tu-104,

which is considered to be the first

successful jet-powered aircraft.

In 2006, Aeroméxico became the

first Latin American carrier to fly from

its home country to Tokyo’s Narita

International Airport 13. It remains

the only Latin American airline to fly

that route.

Air France connected the People’s

Republic of China to the West when

it opened its inaugural route from

Paris to Shanghai in 1966.

This year, Air Europa became the first

international company to be granted

a licence to operate scheduled

domestic flights in Brazil.

95

2009

YEARS

Delta became

the only U.S. airline

to serve six continents

by introducing

nonstop flights

between Los Angeles

and Sydney.

128

YEARS

2010

TAROM and Vietnam

Airlines both joined

SkyTeam.

42

YEARS

2007

Kenya Airways

joined SkyTeam.

2006

85

YEARS

Aeromexico flight MEX-NRT took its

first flight to Tokyo – the only Latin

American carrier still flying to Asia today.

2017

XiamenAir became

the first airline to sign a

74

2014

cooperation agreement

YEARS Saudi Arabia’s national carrier

with the United Nations

33

SAUDIA operates from all of

YEARS

promoting a set of

the country’s 27 airports. In

2014, it started flying to LA, global goals

still its longest route with a for sustainable 35

flight time of nearly 17 hours!

development.

YEARS

2019

Air Europa became the

first international company

to be granted a license

to operate scheduled

domestic flights in Brazil.

Alitalia, whose maiden voyage was

from Turin to Catania via Rome on 5

May 1947, was the very first airline

to transport Pope Paul VI abroad in

1964.

~ Follow our tips next time you fly and

you’ll discover how getting there can

be as enjoyable as your destination.

Visit skyteam.com to find out more.

SkyTeam. Age is more than just a number.


80 / SAFARI NJEMA

SAFARI NJEMA / 81

Global Network

Kenya Airways Fleet

UNITED

STATES

London

GREAT-BRITAIN

THE NETHERLANDS

Amsterdam

Paris

FRANCE

Geneva

SWITZERLAND

ITALY

Rome

Boeing 787 Dreamliner

Aircraft 9; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;

Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight

227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per

engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length

56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m

New York

SENEGAL

Dakar

Bamako

Freetown

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia

LIBERIA

MALI

COTE

BENIN

D'IVOIRE

GHANA

Lagos

Abidjan

Accra

Cotonou

SUDAN

Khartoum

NIGERIA

UNITED

ARAB

EMIRATES

Dubai

Djibouti

DJIBOUTI

Addis

Ababa

SOMALIA

CENTRAL

SOUTH SUDAN

ETHIOPIA

CAMEROON

AFRICAN REPUBLIC

Juba

Douala

Yaoundé

Mogadishu

Bangui

UGANDA

KENYA

Entebbe/Kampala

Libreville

Kisumu

GABON

Kigali

NAIROBI

RWANDA

Brazzaville

DEMOCRATIC

Malindi

REPUBLIC OF

Bujumbura

Kilimanjaro

Mombasa

Kinshasa

THE CONGO

BURUNDI

TANZANIA

Mahé

SEYCHELLES

Dar es Salaam

Luanda

Moroni/COMOROS

ANGOLA

Lubumbashi

MALAWI

Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE

Ndola

Lilongwe

ZAMBIA

Lusaka

Blantyre

Nampula

Livingstone

Victoria

Harare

Falls

ZIMBABWE

Antananarivo

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

MADAGASCAR

Mumbai

INDIA

Bangkok

THAILAND

CHINA

Guangzhou

Boeing 737-800

Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight

79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical

cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at

sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;

Interior cabin width 3.53m

Boeing 737-700

Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight

70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;

Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;

Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m

Johannesburg

Maputo

Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism

SOUTH

AFRICA

Cape Town

Embraer 190

Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;

Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight

51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per

engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;

Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m


82 / SAFARI NJEMA

SAFARI NJEMA / 83

The Nairobi National Park

stopover package allows guests

to take a safari break while on

business, leisure or connecting

to your next flight.

Welcome to Kenya

✈ Passengers travelling in

a group of at least ten

(economy cabin) or five

(business cabin), can

request for a group fare.

SOUTH-

SUD A N

E T HIOPIA

Practical tips

Getty Images

Getting around

On Arrival

TO THE CITY Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute

drive away from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a

20-minute drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.

VISA Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry

visas are available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or

Embassy prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival

at the airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in

local currency. You will also require a passport that is valid for three

months from the moment of entry.

DOMESTIC TRANSFERS AT JKIA If transferring to domestic, follow the

signs to Immigration, clear with Immigration, proceed to collect your

bags and follow exit signs to the outside of the airport and Proceed to

Terminal 1D (Domestic Terminal). From Terminal 1A to Terminal 1D.

(Follow directions or ask Kenya Airways Uniform staff once you land).

TERMINAL 1B

TERMINAL 1A

Kenya Airways

International

arrival Terminal

Airport Shuttle

Picking Point

CENTRAL SQUARE

PARKING SILO

P CLOSED

P 8B

P CLOSED

TERMINAL 1C

TERMINAL 1D

Kenya Airways Domestic

Transfers Terminal

TERMINAL 1E

P 9 P 10 P 11

TERMINAL 2

Health

Emergency services

Dial 999. Note that

ambulance services are

mostly private. Services

include: St Johns

Ambulance +254 72 161

1555 or Kenya Red

Cross Ambulance

+254 71 771 4938.

Hospitals

Nairobi and Mombasa

have good hospitals.

Medical expenses

Make sure you have

adequate travel health

insurance and accessible

funds to cover the cost of

any medical treatment.

Consultations and

treatments will have to

be paid for at the time,

and the costs claimed

back later.

General

Voltage

240 volts AC, using

three-square-pin,

13-amp-type plugs.

Security

It is advisable not to walk

alone in isolated areas

in towns or on beaches,

particularly after dark.

Tipping

Tips are appreciated. Most

hotels/restaurants add a

10 percent service charge.

Water

It is wise to drink or use

only boiled or bottled water,

and to avoid ice in drinks.

Self-drive

Traffic adheres to the lefthand

side of the road, and

most cars are right-hand

drive. A current driving

licence with photograph is

accepted for up to a threemonth

stay.

Public transport

Nairobi is the only city with

an effective municipal bus

What & How

service. Local (private)

matatus are the main

means of getting around.

Taxi service Uber operates

in Nairobi and Mombasa.

Photography

Taking photographs of

official buildings, including

embassies, can lead to

detention. Photography is

also prohibited at airports.

Embassies & consulates

All embassies are

located in Nairobi.

ID

You must carry a valid form

of ID with you at all times.

Post office

Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,

Mondays to Fridays; and 9

a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.

Telephone/internet

Phone cards may be

bought from post offices

or international call

offices. Emails can be sent

from most hotels.

Money matters

Currency

Kenyan shilling (KES)

Currency regulations

There are no restrictions on

the movement of currency

into or out of Kenya for

currency transactions.

Banking

Banks are generally open

from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,

Mondays to Fridays;

and 9 a.m. to 12 noon

Saturdays. Banks in

coastal towns open

and close half an hour

earlier. Most ATMs accept

international VISA cards.

Credit cards

Visa and MasterCard are

widely accepted.

Hotel bill payment

Pay in Kenyan shillings or

convertible currency.

Most hotels also accept

credit cards.

Gulu

UGA N D A

Lokichokio

Sibiloi

Central

National

Songot 1755 m

Island

Park

National

Park

Namoratunga

Muruasigar

Stones

2149 m

LAKE

TURKANA

Lodwar

Nasolot

National

Reserve

Maralal

Saiwa

National

Matthew’s Peak

Swamp

Sanctuary

2375 m

Mt Elgon

National

National Park

Kaisungua

Maralal

Reserve

Kitale

3167 m

Samburu

National

Mt Elgon

Kerio Valley

Reserve

Shaba National

4322 m

National Reserve

Reserve

ELDORET

Archer’s Post

LAKE BARING O

Kakamega

Buffalo Springs

Forest Reserve

Lake Bogoria Isiolo

National

Meru

Reserve

National Reserve

National

Kakamega

Park

Ndere Island

Nanyuki

National Park

KISUMU

Meru

Mt Londiani

Rusinga Island

Kericho

3000 m

North

Nakuru

Mt Kenya

Kitu

Lake Nakuru

5199 m

National

Mfangango

National

Park

Nyerri

Embu

Reserve

Island

Kisii

Muranga’a

Mwea

Ruma

Hell’s Gate

National

LAKE

National

National Park

Mt Longonot 2777 m

Reserve

Park

RIFT VALLEY

VICTORIA

Longonot National Park

Thika

Migori

Narok

NAIROBI

Oi Donyo National Park

Masai Mara

Nairobi

National Reserve

National

Park

Chantal van Wessel

TA NZANIA

South

Turkana

National

Reserve

South

Island

National

Park

RIFT VALLEY

LAKE

MAGADI

Shompole

Conservancy

CHALBI DESERT

Loiyangalani

Mt Kulal 2285 m

OFFICES & AGENTS

Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi

P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,

Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000

Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747

Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747

Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com

JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures

Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,

Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570

Baggage Services Tel +254 0741 33 3954

Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com

Kajiado

West

Chyulu Game

Conservation

Area

Amboseli

National Park

Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m

Marsabit

National

Reserve

Losai

National

Reserve

Marsabit

Marsabit

National

Park

Tsavo West

National

Park

K ENYA

Tsavo

East

National

Park

Voi

Kora

National

Park

Moyale

Rahole

National

Reserve

Mwaluganje

Elephant

Sanctuary

Shimba Hills

National

Reserve

Garissa

MOMBASA

Wajir

Tana River

Primate National

Reserve

Malka Mari

National

Reserve

Arabuko

Malindi Marine

Sokoke

National Park

National

Park

MALINDI

Watamu Marine

National Park

Diani

Kisite Marine National Park

Kisite Marine National Park

Boni

National

Arawale

Reserve

National

Reserve

Dodori

National

Reserve

SOMALIA

INDIAN

OCEAN

100 km


SAFARI NJEMA / 85

Cargo

Express Cargo

Fast as Lightning

Text: Emma van Egmond Image: Getty Images

Whoops! Forgotten to pack an

essential travel item? KQ Cargo

saves you a lot of stress because

your missing article can be shipped

to your destination immediately.

In the hustle and bustle of our everyday

lives, it’s not always possible to remember

everything. We’ve all had that sudden

realisation – perhaps while already sitting

in the aircraft – that we’ve forgotten to

pack something important. A crucial

item, such as a laptop, a pair of glasses, a

phone, a bunch of keys, or something

even larger.

But there’s no need to worry: Kenya

Airways has you covered with KQ

Express Cargo services, handled at Jomo

Kenyatta International Airport.

This airport-to-airport service is

designed to ensure that your package is

delivered to domestic destinations in

Kenya (Nairobi, Kisumu and Mombasa)

efficiently and effectively. Pieces heavier

than 100 kg each can be accepted by

prior arrangement. And there are no

customs fees, neither at the origin nor at

the destination. It’s as easy as that.

With an acceptance time of one hour

before flight departure, and a 45-minute

delivery time to the consignee at the

destination airport, KQ Express Cargo

boasts one of the shortest transit times

globally.

Need It Now?

KQ Express Cargo is a priority

product designed to cater for

urgent cargo shipments with speed

and reliability. We accept a range

of shipments, except for:

• Valuable cargo

• Dangerous goods

• Live animals

• Human remains

• Perishables

• Vulnerable cargo


86 / SAFARI NJEMA

KQ won the Best

Business Class in

Africa for five years

in a row from World

Travel Awards.

Get Comfortable

✈ KQ received an International

Safety Award in 2016 and 2017

from the British Safety Council.

What you need to know

Flight Mode

Safety

Please watch the safety demonstration before

take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat

pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.

Electronic devices including laptops, tablets

and mobile phones may not be used during

take-off and landing.

Hand luggage

Place hand luggage in the overhead storage

or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew

will remove hand luggage from passengers

seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.

1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light

meal and get some gentle exercise

before your flight.

Travel

On The Move

Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey

2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.

3 Keep your circulation going by standing

up and walking in the aisle when

possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,

shoulders and neck.

4 Low cabin humidity on longer

journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and

throat. Remove contact lenses and apply

“To get lost is to

learn the way”

– African proverb –

moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,

drink plenty of water and moderate

your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.

5 When travelling across time zones

your body’s sleep rhythms can become

disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of

appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself

some time to adjust to new night and

day cycles when you arrive.

6 On arrival spend as much time as

possible outside. Sunlight helps your

body to adjust to a new time zone.

Seat adjustments

Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and

landing.

Infants

Baby-changing tables can be found in

selected toilets. The crew will help prepare

baby food. Cots are available on some flights.

Inflight service

A hot meal is normally served during longhaul

flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals

are available when pre-ordered. There is a

courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,

spirits and soft drinks.

Entertainment

Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of

movies and music is available on our long- and

medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE

guide in Msafiri.

Take-off

The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after

take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear

a reduction in the engine sound, while the

aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins

are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure

during take-off and landing, some passengers

may experience slight discomfort in their ears.

Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching

the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.

Landing

After touchdown you may hear an increase in

engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied

to assist braking. Remain seated until the

engines are off and the doors are open.

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