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November 2019
November 2019 edition 163 kenya-airways.com
In High
Spirits
Festive season
in London
Coastal
Escape
Beyond Dakar’s
busy streets
Just
Dance!

November 2019
ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 7
“Enjoy the holiday period
at some of the most iconic
winter wonderlands”
Photo: Trunk Archive
November 2019 edition 163 kenya-airways.com
In High
Spirits
Festive season
➔
in London
Coastal
Escape
Beyond Dakar’s
busy streets
FREE
to Take
Home!
Just
Dance!
Kenya Airways’ World
Travel Awards
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:
2016, 2017
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,
Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,
2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,
Economy Class: 2011, 2018, 2019
Dear guests,
At this time of the year, many of us
look forward to celebrating the festive
season with our loved ones at home or
at holiday destinations across the globe.
Now that Kenya Airways has expanded
with direct flights to several key destinations
worldwide, you can enjoy the
holiday period at some of the most
iconic city winter wonderlands, such
as New York, Geneva and London.
Our intercontinental travel story this
month takes you to the latter. England’s
capital comes alive during the festive
season, which is marked by spectacular
Christmas lights, atmospheric walks
through frost-covered parks and uniquely
British rituals. Experience all of this as
you discover the best shopping areas,
restaurants and events with our guide
to London during yuletide.
Much has been said about the consumption
of cow’s milk. Unsustainable
production practices and health-related
concerns have encouraged some people
to look for alternatives, and a growing
number of consumers worldwide are
now turning to camel milk because of its
nutritional benefits. In Africa, business
is booming as more and more entrepreneurs
enter the market. Read all about
the African camel milk industry in our
trend story.
At Kenya Airways, wildlife conservation
is a primary concern, and for this reason,
we work with USAID and other partners
to prevent the trafficking of endangered
species. So, this month, it gives us great
pleasure to tell you a positive story about
chimpanzee conservation. In 1966, a
group of chimpanzees from European
zoos were resettled on Rubondo Island
in Lake Victoria. Today, the colony is
flourishing with chimpanzees and many
other animals – such as rhinos – and is
open to visitors. Our wildlife conservation
story reveals the fascinating details
of this modern-day Noah’s Ark.
Thank you for choosing Kenya Airways,
I wish you an enjoyable flight,
Sebastian Mikosz
Group Managing Director and CEO
Kenya Airways
Image: Jeroen van Loon

CONTENTS / 9
Travel & Nature
12 Tree of Life
Avenue of the Baobabs
20 Travel Essentials
Packing for London
22 Coastal Escape
Dakar in Senegal
45 Urban Getaway
Travel tips
52 The Most Magical Time
Festive season in London
58
22
Arts & Culture
15 Habari
Kenya & the world
32 Movers And Shakers
Leading dancers
44 Book Review
Strategic Doing
58 Into The Wild
Chimpanzee conservation
Publisher Kenya Airways | Director of Communications and Public Affairs Dennis Kashero Head of Content Development Rehema Kahurananga Corporate Communications Executive
Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | CEO Hearst
Netherlands Luc van Os | Director Hearst Create Lieneke van den Heuvel | Content Director Irene Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Service Director
Erik-Jan Sanders Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Connie Aluoch, Joost
Bastmeijer, Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Julia Buckley, Matteo Colombo, Andrea Dijkstra, Eromo Egbejule, Emma van Egmond, Jacqueline de Haas, Annemarie Hoeve, Sioe Sin Khoe,
Annette Lavrijsen, Dana van Leeuwen, Jeroen van Loon, Victor Murithiw, Belange Okandju, Kim Paffen, Gijsje Ribbens, Anthea Rowan, Kristel Steenbergen, Nigel Tisdall, George Turner, Eva de
Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland

10 / CONTENTS
Fly Guide
65 Highlights
Inflight entertainment guide
75 Safari Njema
News & service
81 Flying Blue News
83 SkyTeam News
84 Route Maps
89 Cargo
90 Get Comfortable
52
Business
32
38 Aircraft Facts
Loading and offloading
40 White Gold
The camel milk industry
46 Uganda
At a glance
48 Rethinking Plastic
Waste solutions
Contact details Kenya Airways Communications & Public Affairs, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.com
Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @KenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734
271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Moermanskkade 500, 1013 BC Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 5353942, Website hearstcreate.nl.
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, Hearst and Kenya Airways assume no
responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights
and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.

12 / NATURE / Views
Tree
of Life
What was once a
tropical forest is now
a long avenue, flanked
by a line of giants.
Here, revered and
ancient BAOBAB
TREES still stand tall.
text Emma van Egmond
IN WESTERN Madagascar, the dirt
road that links the towns of Morondava
and Belon’i Tsiribihina is lined with
about 25 magnificent baobab trees; each
30-m tall and 800+ years old (carbon
dating indicates that many of the oldest
African baobabs are between 1,000 and
2,000 years old). This is the Avenue of the
Baobabs, and it’s the perfect place to get
up close to these mighty trees.
The otherworldly baobab, known as
the Tree of Life, is a sacred tree to many
in these parts for its apparent spiritual
and health-giving properties. Able to
store 120,000 litres of water in their
hollow trunks, they can be tapped for
water in the dry season. And with six
times more vitamin C than oranges, the
fruit of this tree is increasingly being
seen as a “superfood”. But sadly, the
baobab appears to be a victim of climate
change, with rising temperatures making
them more susceptible to disease,
drought and fire.
This means that you should plan a
visit to this natural wonder while you
still can. Be sure to do so during sunset
or sunrise, when the trees’ silhouettes
stand out against the orange sky, and the
hazel-coloured trunks turn gold in the
light. The journey can be bumpy and
arduous, but you’ll be rewarded with an
unforgettable experience.
Kenya Airways operates daily flights from
Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport
to Ivato International Airport in Antananarivo.

NATURE / 13
Kim Paffen

Pan-fried
grasshoppers, also
known as nsenene,
are a delicacy in
Uganda.
Habari
HABARI / 15
Over 2,000 Stone
Age rock carvings
have been found at
Twyfelfontein
in Namibia.
Portraits
Dazzling
Design
No matter which creative tools
Kenyan visual artist Evans
Mbugua uses to express
himself, people are always
at the heart of his aesthetic
approach. Through colourful,
dazzling works, he portrays
his life and the lives of his
friends and strangers. Diversity
nourishes his curiosity of
the world. Mbugua was born
in Nairobi in 1979 and is
currently living in Paris.
~ Instagram: @evans_mbugua

16 / HABARI
SPQR, an abbreviation of The
Senate and People of Rome,
is inscribed on manhole
covers in Rome.
Nairobi
There are more than
150,000 islands in
Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
Shutterstock
Online wine
Cellar 254
Who wants to go out to a
shop looking for wine when
you can go online? This portal
features over 67 varieties of
wine from 7 countries. You
can shop according to your
taste in style, region, type,
grape and price. Oh, and they
deliver right to your doorstep,
so you don’t have to rush out
and leave the party.
Gourmet burgers
Mama Rocks
Two brilliant Nigerian/British
ladies – Samantha and Natalie
– rocked up in Kenya a few
years ago with an idea that’s
wrapped around street food
and the zeitgeisty food-truck
model. It was a fresh idea that
resonated with the urban Nairobi
crowd who were tempted
by something unique and outof-the-box
(as out-of-the-box
as a food truck can be) and
newish. Their burgers, which
are made from prime cuts, are
served in a brioche bun.
~ mamarocksburgers.com
Ten-pin bowling
Village Bowl
If there’s a better bowling alley in Nairobi, then we aren’t aware of
it. This place is fantastic, not least because it’s at Village Market
Mall, and these fellows don’t cut corners when it comes to entertainment.
Why not add a bit of fun to your weekend? You could
practise your swing (if you aren’t into boxing) and give this a go.
We suggest going with a group of friends. If not, you’ll probably
meet people there who you can play with. There are drinks,
which means you can have a beer as you swing. The mood is
right, meaning that there’s a lot of whining (by the losers) and
shouting (by the winners).
~ villagemarket-kenya.com
Shutterstock
~ cellar254.com
Great salads
Amani Garden Cafe
This café was started by Becky Chinchen, a US missionary who
fled from Liberia to Kenya where she – and three other refugees –
began making placemats and selling them to hotels. Later, they
founded their company, Amani ya Juu, which means “peace from
above”. Theirs is a social enterprise designed to bring hope to
the disadvantaged. Amani Garden Cafe is part of their offering.
~ amanigardencafe.org
“The youth can
walk faster but
the elder knows
the road”
– African proverb –
Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko

The Sani Pass, connecting Underberg in
South Africa with Mokhotlong in Lesotho,
is considered to be one of the world’s
most dangerous mountain passes.
What’s On
Race
Ultimate Endurance
HABARI / 17
Malindi, Diani and Watamu are
just a few of the most popular
beach destinations along
Kenya’s 536-km coastline.
During the 84-km long Tsavo Run, participants compete over
a stunning but tough endurance course covering large parts
of the beautiful Tsavo National Park in Kenya. Funds raised
will be used to support the Tsavo Heritage Foundation, working
towards the protection of endangered ecosystems in the
park. This spectacular event will take place on 7 December.
New
Minimal Design
New Lagos-based design
brand, The Aga Concept,
breathes minimalism while
taking inspiration from
African culture and everyday
life. With wooden spoons to
cutting boards, it combines
basic colours and age-old
traditions to create a truly
modern aesthetic.
~ Instagram: @theagaconcept
~ tsavorun.org
Getty Images
Festival
Afro Punk
With editions in London,
Paris and Brooklyn, the Afro
Punk Festival caters to a
growing young community
through music, art, film,
comedy and fashion. For
the newest edition of this
popular event, head to
Johannesburg, South Africa,
on 30 and 31 December.
~ afropunk.com/festival/joburg
Accessories
Beautiful Blend
Ugandan brand, Kona, merges Indian and African
influences into stunning bags and jewellery using a
mix of patterns, styles, colours and materials. With
raw materials sourced locally and products handmade
by a team of women in Kampala, Kona aims
to employ and empower local artisans.
~ kona.ug
Culture
It’s a Celebration!
Habari text: Eva de Vries
Rusinga Island, in the Kenyan part of Lake Victoria, is home to
a unique festival. This year, on 19 and 20 December, The Rusinga
Cultural Festival celebrates its eighth edition with two days of music,
fashion, food, literature and more, highlighting the local Suba culture.
~ facebook.com/rusingafestival

18 / HABARI
Lake Kariba is the world’s biggest
man-made lake by volume, and
supplies hydroelectricity to Zambia
and Zimbabwe.
Column
The majority of Burundi’s
population lives in villages that are
scattered throughout the highlands.
Jackson Biko
ADPhD
I’m sitting in a gazebo at a group therapy session on a
balmy Saturday afternoon. If I was an auditor, or in one of
those serious professions that involves sitting in a corner and
staring constantly at a computer screen, I wouldn’t be here.
I’m here by happenstance because – a couple of months back
– I went to interview a clinical psychiatrist about mental
health in millennials and he said, “By the way, have you done
an ADHD test?” I hadn’t, so he picked up the phone and
said, “Linda, could you get me the xx forms?” (I can’t recall
the exact name; I was distracted by his tie.) I did the test, and
like most tests I’ve done in my life, I passed. “Biko,” he said.
“You have Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder but...
Biko?”
“Oh sorry,” I replied, while putting the miniature silver
elephant back on his desk.
“You’re not badly off,” he continued. “Yours is a moderate
case.” It explained a lot. I get distracted easily. I’m super impatient.
I get angry fast. I drift in and out of conversations. If
I think you’re full of it, I will zone out but leave you with an
intense concentrated look (when I’m actually thinking about
where European ducks go during winter).
Therapy’s a hoot. I started mine by visiting a young man
who was wearing tight trousers and a thin belt. He was actually
a therapist with qualifications, but he could have passed for a
social media influencer. I’d spent the last ten years as a writer
listening to people jabber on about their lives, and now it was
my turn. After one session, I realised what I’d been missing:
talking about oneself is a ton of fun, especially when you’re
uninterrupted. My therapist never interrupts me. He better
not because it’s costing me US$50 an hour! I’ve had two sessions
so far. I talked about my deceased mother in both. I
didn’t cry, in case you’re wondering.
My therapist told me that I need to meet other people
with ADHD because it might help me to comprehend the
condition. The ADHD support group mirrors Alcoholics
Anonymous because you start by stating your name followed
by your ADHD status. My group is an eclectic family: a boy
of 15 with gold teeth (accompanied by his supportive parents);
a banker; a university student; a lady with a thousand
bangles; an architect; an Uber driver; a tattooed guy who
refused to declare what he does (so let’s just say “a football
hooligan”); a landscaper; a Somali guy with a nice watch; a
gentleman who had just turned 30 and received divorce papers
from his wife as his birthday gift; a lady with pouty lips; a guy
who said very little (probably secret police); and yours truly.
“Talking about oneself
is fun, especially when
you’re uniterrupted”
I don’t like groups. I’m a snow leopard. I walk in the shadows;
the limelight is not my home. So, these group sessions
aren’t my cup of tea. But I’ve learnt so much about “schemas”
(Google it when you land) and knowing – and managing –
myself. We all speak like we’re a special tribe with unique
features – like albino zebras – and, quite frankly, if you’re not
ADHD you’re missing out. The meetings make everybody
feel good and special. The word “normal” is discouraged in
all sentences. Anyway, I just started thinking about those
ducks in Europe again. I’m wondering why nobody ponders
such things. How can a flock of ducks just disappear from a
pond and folk just go about their business unperturbed? Just
how cold is Europe’s heart?
Illustration: Hannah Wieslander

Juba, the capital of South
Sudan, is located on the shores
of the White Nile.
Getty Images
Inspiration
African
Highlights
Victoria Falls, Mount Kilimanjaro or
Zanzibar are examples of African
destinations on the top of many
bucket lists. But, why not beat
the crowds and explore one of
these often-overlooked but equally
extraordinary places?
Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda &
Democratic Republic of the Congo
Located in the border region of
western Uganda and Democratic
Republic of the Congo, the Rwenzori
Mountains are characterised
by peaks topped with snow and
glaciers, waterfalls and lakes, as
well as rare flora. Crowning this
mountain range is Mount Stanley,
Africa’s third-highest peak and a
source of the Nile River. The best
way to explore this tough terrain is
by foot.
~ ugandawildlife.org
Simien Mountains National Park,
Ethiopia
The Simien Mountains are worth
visiting for many reasons. This
spectacular and unique mountain
range is home to a number of
endangered species, such as the
Ethiopian wolf and the walia ibex,
as well as the gelada baboon and
the caracal. Hikers will be amazed
by the quiet highland ridges covered
with grasses, isolated trees and the
bizarre giant lobelia plant.
~ simienpark.org
Creativity
Food Art
From a lady wearing earrings made of onions to red lips
formed from fruit, Nigerian visual artist Haneefah Adam
turns leftover food into beautiful pieces of art.
~ haneefahadam.com
Arts & Culture
“In the moment
of crisis, the wise
build bridges and
the foolish build
dams”
– Nigerian proverb –
The Niassa Game Reserve
is the largest conservation
area in Mozambique, and
one of the most pristine
wilderness areas in Africa.
Design
Urban Furniture
From mirrors to seating,
the signature style of The
Urbanative is characterised
by clean, functional designs,
and geometric Ndebele
textiles, contrasted with steel
and wood. The South
African brand explores the
role of culture in modern
society, aiming to convey a
modern African narrative.
~ theurbanative.com
HABARI / 19
Music
Reggae
for Peace
The Nigeria Reggae Festival,
from 28 to 30 December,
strives to spread a message
of love, peace and unity.
Featured artists include
Lioness Fonts and Singing
Vernon. Check the website
for venue details.
~ nigeriareggaefestival.com

20 / TRAVEL / Essentials
Big Ben is the nickname given to
the largest of the bells inside the
famous tower housing it.
Packing for London
Buckingham Palace has
775 rooms, 760 windows, 1,514
doors and over 40,000 lightbulbs.
Travel-sized beauty kit including face cleanser, rose shampoo
and conditioner, plus vanilla and orange hand cream.
Grown Alchemist, US$81.
Women’s
wool-blend
pea coat by
Lemaire as part
of a special
collaboration.
Uniqlo, US$199.
Add sparkle
to any outfit with
these gold-plated
Barbelle earrings.
Saskia Diez,
US$197.
Chrome-plated safety razor
shaving set keeps you free of
stubble for London nights out.
Mühle, US$155.
Burgundy mixed-stripe,
ribbed woollen beanie hat with
pom-pom. Paul Smith, US$95.
Women’s cashmere
roll-neck sweater
to keepyou warm
during the winter
months. Whistles,
US$389.
Harlequin Jacquard
Weekender Bag by
the famous house of
floral fabrics. Liberty
London, US$640.
Umbrella tie pin
– a nod to the
famous British
weather. Simon
Carter, US$38.
Each gold-leaf Christmas
cracker contains a
crown, entertaining scroll
and silver-plated gift.
Fortnum & Mason,
US$73.
Santal 33 Travel Tube, packs in scents evoking classic
cowboy-style masculinity. Le Labo, US$162.
Selection: Gijsje Ribbens

22 / TRAVEL / Dakar
Maison Abaka’s
terrace.

TRAVEL / 23
Getty Images
COASTAL
ESCAPE
Only a stone’s throw from the bustle
of DAKAR, laid-back beaches and
world-class waves beckon.
text Joost Bastmeijer

24 / TRAVEL / Dakar
THERE’S A bottle of white wine on the sun-faded red
tablecloth. The sun is coming in through the open windows
along with the ocean wind, illuminating the red-brick interior of
Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers, a small restaurant on Île
de Gorée that’s filled with small paintings framed in driftwood.
In the back, an old man is ironing napkins. Outside, fishermen
prepare their boats on the beach for another departure. It’s
scenes like this that create an unexpected tranquillity that’s
always close at hand throughout the coastal hub that is Dakar,
as weʼve come to realise in the course of our stay.
BOATS & BEACHES
But our trip doesnʼt start on this beautiful stretch of fine
sand; it starts in a 30-year-old taxi inching through Dakar
traffic, en route to the beachside neighbourhood of N’Gor in
the north of the Cap-Vert peninsula in which Dakar is nestled.
Upon arriving at Maison Abaka, a small boutique hotel
only 10 km from central Dakar, relaxation mode sets in
instantly as life here clearly occurs at a different pace. On the
sand in front, children kick a ball, while others play some
table football. We’re greeted by a few women selling boiled eggs
sprinkled with a spicy red “piment” powder. After checking in,
we look out over the glimmering surface of the Atlantic Ocean.
Together with the hotel owner’s parrot, we take in the view.
Yes, this is the Dakar we’d been hoping for.
Already wearing our swimwear and ready for a dive the
next morning, we leave the hotel’s back entrance to N’Gor
Beach. Taking a dip looks tempting, but this beach is mainly
used by fishermen. “Do you want to go to the other side?”
a friendly older gentleman asks us in French. He points to a
colourful boat making its way to the island across the water.
Known as a pirogue, this traditional wooden fishing boat
looks a bit like a long, narrow canoe with an outboard motor
on the back. “That boat will take you to Île de N’Gor.”
This peaceful speck of an island under a kilometre away,
is perfect for spending a day exploring. What makes it extra
relaxing is the fact that there are no cars here; the island is
only 800 metres long, so none are needed. After renting a
beach lounger and having lunch at one of the many waterside
eateries, we take a stroll to the western side of the island.
From here, we can see the busy Dakar skyline in the distance.
SURFING HAVEN
Sitting on a rock on the western side of Île de N’Gor,
we watch the island’s legendary waves crashing on the coastline
before meeting Philipp and Matar. The two are surfing with
the N’Gor Island Surf Camp, located on one of the largest
plots on the island. The surf school, owned by US-Senegalese
rapper Akon, also boasts rooms and a small restaurant.
“It’s a great place to spend my holiday,” the Austrian Philipp
says. “The waves here are amazing. Have you seen the >
“Yes, this is the Dakar we’d been hoping for”
Where to sleep
Maison Abaka
This hotels offers the best access
to N’Gor Beach and the famous
surfing island. maison-abaka.com
Quiksilver Boardriders Surf Camp
A budget hangout – in the middle
of the N’Gor neighbourhood – with
nice staff and an outdoor pool, this
is perfect for young backpackers.
quiksilversenegal.com
King Fahd Palace Hotel
This massive five-star hotel is
located in the middle of the fancy
Les Almadies neighbourhood.
kingfahdpalacehotels.com
N’Gor Island Surf Camp
Surf the mythical waves on Île de
N’Gor, although lessons here come
with quite a price tag. gosurf.dk
Villa Castel
This Île de Gorée villa boasts a
lovely flower garden and outdoor
swimming pool. villacastelgoree.com
Above: N’gor, a surf club
that’s become a surfer
hideaway in Africa’s
westernmost point, just
off the coast of Dakar
(top); A beach in Dakar
(bottom left); Pink
hibiscus flowers (bottom
right).
Right page: Île de Gorée,
a UNESCO World Heritage
Site (top); Hostellerie du
Chevalier de Boufflers
(bottom left); Senegalese
women with their children
on a sandy beach
(bottom right).
Getty Images, Shutterstock

TRAVEL / 25

26 / TRAVEL / Dakar
Îles de la Madeleine,
to the west of Dakar.

TRAVEL / 27
“We watch the island’s
legendary waves crashing on
the coastline”
Getty Images

28 / TRAVEL / Dakar

TRAVEL / 29
Left page: A street
stall in Dakar’s
suburbs (top); A
colonial building on
Île de Gorée (bottom
left); The local catch
(bottom right).
Getty Images
film, The Endless Summer? See the wave they are surfing right
over there?” he says, pointing at a powerful rising crest. “That’s
what the movie is all about.” The 1966 cult surf documentary,
which follows two young surfers who travel the world in search
of the perfect wave, put this island on the international surfing
map for the first time.
Back on the mainland, we travel to the twin hills called
Collines des Mamelles. They’re located at the westernmost
point of the African continent. To get there, we cross several of
Dakar’s suburban neighbourhoods, including Ndeureuhnou,
Diongarane, Les Almadies and Ouakam. It’s easy to see that
Dakar is a city that’s constantly on the move: new buildings
are being built in every direction, and each is in a different
stage of completion. Senegal’s capital, and biggest city, is
progressing quickly, as the country develops, but it’s still
possible to catch glimpses of a previous era. Dakar was
founded by the French in 1857 and this influence can still be
seen in some of the architecture. Examples include Dakar
Hospital and the Marché Kermel, a covered European-style
market in the centre of town selling fresh produce, crafts and
souvenirs. The original structure burned down in a fire, but it
was rebuilt in the original style in 1997.
Pervading the city, no matter where you go, is a strong
sense of teranga: the traditional Senegalese culture of
hospitality. This is particularly so at the frenetic markets,
which are brought to life by the inhabitants of this diverse
metropolis who wear brightly coloured fabrics and sharply
tailored suits. Poet, philosopher and first President of Senegal
Léopold Sédar Senghor – the man who Dakar’s airport is
named after – loved Dakar and predicted that it would have a
bright future. It’s easy to see why: Dakar has a tangible pride
and fresh, seaside city spirit that sets it aside from other West
African capitals.
TO THE LIGHTHOUSE
That Senegalese pride is also apparent in the colossal
bronze statue on top of one of the Collines des Mamelles.
At 49 metres tall, the African Renaissance Monument is
the tallest statue in Africa. Unveiled in 2010, it commemorates
Senegal’s independence from France in 1960. Inside, a daunting
number of steps take you to the top for a sweeping view of
this city of over a million, dotted with minarets and steeples.
Senegal is mainly Muslim, but in most places, it’s not
necessary to cover up knees, head or shoulders as non-Muslim
visitors. That of course is not the case when you want to visit
the Grand Mosque of Dakar in the city’s downtown area, or
the seaside Mosque of the Divinity: an architectural gem with
arresting ocean views.
Atop the other hill is the photogenic, white Les Mamelles
Lighthouse. Built in 1864 to help sailors navigate the seas
around these parts, the lighthouse, which is still being >
Mirjam Bleeker
“It’s scenes like this that create an unexpected
tranquillity that’s always close at hand”
Day trips from Dakar
Lac Rose
About 30 km from downtown Dakar is Lac Retba,
more commonly known as Lac Rose for the colour
of its waters.
It’s at its most vivid in the dry season, when high
salt content attracts the Dunaliella salina algae,
which produces a red pigment. The lake is only an
hourʼs drive away, and can be reached by public
bus, although a private taxi is the most convenient
way to get there.
Petite Côte
Already seen the sandy beaches of Île de Gorée
and Île de N’Gor? Head to La Petite Côte, where
you’ll find 70 km of unspoilt coastline between
Dakar’s Cap-Vert peninsula and the Sine-Saloum
Delta.
Îles de la Madeleine
Dakar is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the
Cap-Vert peninsula, and there are many islands
to be found that can be easily reached from the
city itself. In December, the uninhabited Îles de la
Madeleine is a haven for watching wild migratory
birds.
When to visit
Most tourists visit Senegal from November to
March, with a peak during the holiday season. But
you can visit Dakar at any time of the year.
Getting around
Dakar is notorious for its traffic, so be prepared.
Most of the time, taxis are your best bet.

30 / TRAVEL / Dakar
Left: A shop selling
African leather bags
(top); The Les Mamelles
Lighthouse (bottom left);
Two children in front of
a house facade on Île de
Gorée (bottom right).
“The sun is coming in through the open windows
along with the ocean wind”
Where to eat
Bayékou
This Mediterranean restaurant in N’Gor does
some of the best fish dishes. The ceviche comes
highly recommended.
La Cabane du Surfeur
More than just a surfer’s den, this restaurant on
the Petit Corniche serves some outstanding food.
Try the shrimps on their layered outside terrace.
Chez Fatou
This restaurant is popular with expats. Make a
reservation on weekend nights.
The Lulu Café
Come here for great coffee, a hip vibe and an
adjoining book and design store. lulu.sn
used, is open daily for visitors; it’s even possible to see the
original curved Fresnel lens that still illuminates the city at
night. The best thing after the climb up? Restaurant Le Phare
des Mamelles next door offers some great meals and simply
stunning views.
After eating, we head to the southern side of the Cap-
Vert peninsula, where there’s another boat trip to be had.
This time, we set sail – on a bigger boat – for another nearby
island, Île de Gorée, which is only 20 minutes away.
The easy-going vibe, friendly locals enjoying their day
outside and the vividly coloured buildings paint a picture of
an island idyll that is a world away from Île de Gorée’s darker
history. From the 15th century to the 19th century, it served as
an outpost for the Atlantic slave trade. The island is now a
UNESCO World Heritage Site attracting countless visitors
from around the world. Built by the Dutch in 1772, the infamous
House of Slaves is now a museum, acting as an enduring
memorial and symbol of freedom lost. Although most head
back to Dakar on the same day, we spend the night on the
island, at the beautifully situated Villa Castel.
HIBISCUS HUES
The next day is the last day of our trip. We board a boat
to return to the mainland and stop off at restaurant La
Cabane du Surfeur for a final view of the sea. The waiter
encourages us to try “the best bissap in Dakar”, as we really
can’t head home without having tasted it. This is just one of
the many places that serves the vivid pink juice, made by
infusing hibiscus flowers in hot water. From the poolside
of Radisson Blu Hotel’s infinity pool, to the small family-run
fruit shops, you can get it anywhere. And like this fruity fresh
drink, the city and its tropical surroundings already beg for
another taste. There’s so much yet to experience: the scenic
coasts of Senegal’s Petite Côte south of Dakar, the colonial
city of Saint-Louis, a day trip to the pink waters of Lac Rose
or the tranquillity of the Îles de la Madeleine. Although we’re
leaving, we know it won’t be long before we’ll be back for more.
Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers
Hands-down the cutest restaurant, with beautiful
sights over the beach on Île de Gorée.
Le Phare des Mamelles
Located in a building that used to be part of the
adjacent lighthouse, this restaurant offers great
views. The only downside? The US$9 admission.
pharedesmamelles.com
➔
Plan your trip
Book your flight to Dakar
on kenya-airways.com
Joost Bastmeijer, Getty Images

TRAVEL / 31
A man watches over
Dakar’s skyline from
a bench near Île de
Gorée’s ‘Mémorial
Gorée-Almadies.
credit xxxxx

32 / PEOPLE / Dancers
Movers And
Shakers
To make it as a dancer you need passion,
dedication and drive. But before that, there’s a
dream. And the courage to go for it. These
DANCE STARS are making their mark with
every jump, leap and twirl.
text Eromo Egbejule
Michaela
DePrince
Country
Sierra Leone
Current home
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
Highlights
Forthcoming film, Taking Flight, about
her life, which is being directed by
Madonna; Performing in Beyoncé’s music
video, Lemonade;
Ambassador for War Child
Style
Classical ballet
Online
michaeladeprince.com
THE CHILDHOOD of Michaela DePrince, born
in 1995 as Mabinty Bangura in war-torn Sierra Leone,
could not be further removed from the ballet star’s
current life. After losing her parents at the age of three,
she ended up in an orphanage where her vitiligo
condition meant that she was thought to be cursed.
Seeing a picture of a ballerina on the cover of a
magazine gave DePrince something to dream about.
And, when she was evenutally adopted by an American
family – after 12 other families had refused to take her
– she could finally start becoming the girl in that photo.
The young dancer went on to attend the Rock
School for Dance Education in Philadelphia, but as
she told Vogue Italia, she also encountered prejudice
there. “As a child, I didn’t understand why there were
no black students in dance schools; classmates and
teachers made me feel different and tried steering me
toward modern dance,” she says. “Now, I no longer feel
discriminated against: things are changing, but classical
dance should be more open to ethnic diversity.”
The 2011 documentary, First Position, traces her
preparations for the Youth America Grand Prix, the
world’s largest student ballet competition. Her talent
was rewarded with a scholarship to the prestigious
American Ballet Theatre programme for young dancers.
Her fierce determination has brought her to the
top. She’s now a soloist for the Dutch National Ballet,
and stars in a Beyoncé video. “It’s not a fairy tale,” she
said, speaking to NBC News. “You have to work hard.
There’s a lot of loss, a lot of pain. But performing?
I love it.” She has written a memoir and is ambassador
for Dutch NGO War Child, which helps children in
conflict zones to soar beyond their backgrounds.

PEOPLE / 33
“As a child, I didn’t
understand why there
were no black students
in dance schools”
Image: Jacqueline de Haas Quote: Vogue Italia

34 / PEOPLE / Dancers
Agnes
Kiunga
Stage name
Aggie the Dance Queen
Country
Kenya
Current home
Nairobi, Kenya
Highlights
Resident choreographer at Coke Studio Africa
Performance at the 2018 Bahrain Grand Prix
Style
Contemporary, hip-hop, pop
Online
Instagram: @aggie_the_dance_queen
Styling: Connie Aluoch Styling Management Email: info@conniealuoch.com Photography: Victor Murithiw (Julikana Agency) Photographer’s Assistant: Daniel Chege
Fashion Assistants: Stephanie Njoki & Tara Chao Hair: Shiro Wanyoike Makeup: Mwaju Chaks Makeup
“I can’t believe that one video has brought so much
inspiration and a new wave of appreciation”
FAME CAME calling for Agnes Kiunga, popularly known
by her stage name “Aggie the Dance Queen”, in 2018 when she
became an instant Internet sensation starring in the hit music
video, Short N Sweet, by Kenyan band, Sauti Sol.
The almost effortless-looking stylish cool of her dance
moves, together with her colourful striped jumpsuit, immediately
captivated viewers at home and abroad, sending her career as a
dancer spinning into a higher orbit.
Kiunga has since gone on to shine in performances around the
world, including the 2018 Formula 1 Grand Prix auto race in
Bahrain. “My neighbours are a bit shocked to realise that I’m the
same chick who has been living next to them all this time,” she
said, speaking to Kenya newspaper, Daily Nation. But, she’s quick
to stress that the video brought more than personal success; it also
made people appreciate dance as a career in Kenya.
For this Kenyan choreographer and fitness instructor,
dancing is a lifestyle. It’s something of an unexpected lifestyle,
however, for someone who originally started her career in a very
different direction, studying biology at Kenyatta University. She
even has a Bachelor’s degree in the subject.
Kiunga’s journey into professional dancing first began in 2012
when she started working with the famous Kenyan dance group,
Sarakasi Trust. During her six years there, she worked with many
African artists, appearing in both local and international music
videos. She credits choreographer and dancer, Oscar Mwalo, for
playing a formative role as one of her teachers; and the two are
now married.
The colourful dance styles that she creates with and for artists
and dancers from all over the continent are a testament to the
young dancer’s zest and individuality.

PEOPLE / 35
Sherrie
Silver
Country
Rwanda
Current home
London, UK
Highlights
MTV Video Music Award for choreography, 2018
Choreography for Childish Gambino video
Style
Contemporary, hip-hop, pop
Online
sherriesilver.com; Instagram: @sherriesilver
Belange Okandju, mcmedialondon.com
“I don’t just do this for fun...I want to give back.
I travel and teach African dance from all over the continent”
SHERRIE SILVERʼS trajectory is definitely one for the
books. In 2018, she choreographed the viral This Is America
video, by US musician Childish Gambino. In the video, which
has gone on to garner almost 600 million views on YouTube,
Silver incorporated fun, energetic African-inspired dance moves
from all over the continent, including Ghana’s Alkayida, Nigeria’s
Shaku Shaku and South Africa’s Gwara Gwara.
“Dance is everything to us,” she said, speaking to Rwanda’s
New Times. “No matter how much is going on; even if it’s in the
middle of a war or poverty or hunger, one thing Africans share is
that we dance our sorrows away. Not even professionally, it’s just
a part of our culture.”
Born in Rwanda, her earliest memories were of dancing in
church and performing for family members. Her family moved to
the UK when she was five and it was there that she began dancing
as a hobby. As a teenager, she recorded YouTube videos of herself
doing popular African dance moves, adding catchy twists and
reimagining the dances of her roots.
With the fame that came with the videos, Silver set out on
a path to an impressive career, working with superstars such as
Wizkid, Sean Paul and Tiwa Savage. It was through one of those
videos that she was approached by Childish Gambino.
When she’s not making music videos, she teaches African
dance, acts and uses her platform for philanthropy. “I don’t just
do this for fun,” she told OkayAfrica. “I really do it because I
want to give back. I travel and teach African dance from all over
the continent. I take the money I generate from teaching back to
Rwanda, Uganda and Nigeria to redevelop schools and help get
homeless kids off the street. For me, it’s not just about dancing;
it’s the actual outcome that matters most.”

36 / PEOPLE / Dancers
Kafayat
Oluwatoyin
Shafau
Stage name
Kaffy
Country
Nigeria
Current home
Lagos, Nigeria
Highlights
Broke the Guinness World Record for “Longest Dance
Party” in 2006; Best Female Dancer of the Year at
the African Muzik Magazine Awards, 2014; Best
Choreographer of the Year at The Beatz Awards, 2015
Style
Contemporary, pop, Afrobeat
Online
Instagram: @kaffydance
Jerrie Rotimi
“I have an opportunity to directly impact
people’s lives for the better”
THE NIGERIAN dancer, choreographer and fitness coach
– popularly known as “Kaffy” – was born in Lagos as Kafayat
Oluwatoyin Shafau.
She initially studied to be an aeronautical engineer before
turning to dance. It proved to be a good gamble, after she was
discovered while performing during a dance rehearsal session at
the Lagos National Stadium.
In 2006, she and her dance crew danced for 55 hours and
40 minutes at the Nokia Silverbird Danceathon, breaking the
Guinness World Record for “Longest Dance Party”. From then
on, her impressive career took off and she began establishing
herself as a dynamic symbol for dance in Nigeria. “At the time
I did it, dance was not popular,” she explains.
Shafau’s stamina and energy set her apart, earning her a place
in many of the music videos being released at the time. Her new
choreographies, which were characterised by vigorous movements,
were unlike what people were used to. This led her to work with
the likes of Tiwa Savage, P-Square and D’banj, among others.
In 2015, Shafau won Best Choreographer of the Year at The
Beatz Awards. More recently, she received a Special Recognition
Award at the 2018 version of the Headies.
The founder and owner of Imagneto Dance Company, Shafau
created The Dance Workshop: a programme to train and mentor
aspiring professional dancers, as well as promote cultural exchange
within the Nigerian dance industry. She aims to ensure that dancers
are better paid and able to earn a sustainable income.
“I have an opportunity to directly impact people’s lives for the
better, empower people’s minds. I couldn’t have chosen better,”
she says.

PEOPLE / 37
Somizi
Mhlongo
Stage name
SomGaga
Country
South Africa
Current home
Johannesburg, South Africa
Highlights
Choreography for the 2010 FIFA World Cup opening
and closing ceremonies; choreography for the African
Cup of Nations 2013 ceremonies; the face of global
cosmetics brand Black Opal; choreography for the
South African Music Awards
Style
Contemporary, pop, Gqom, Kwaito
Online
Instagram: @somizi
ANP Foto
“I was born into a family of superstars, so it wouldn’t make
sense for fame to get to my head”
A MAN of many talents, Somizi Buyani Mhlongo is a choreographer,
TV and radio personality, actor and singer. He also goes
by the name “SomGaga”.
Born in 1972 in Soweto, South Africa to two veteran actors,
Mhlongo was exposed to the entertainment world from a very
young age. “I was born into a family of superstars, so it wouldn’t
make sense for fame to go to my head,” he says. “My parents
were famous but we were still poor. It taught me that fame is
just status.”
He made his acting debut at the age of 13 and in 1987, joined
the broadway musical Sarafina!, travelling the world for five years
with the production. In 1992, he made his big dance break in the
film adaptation of Sarafina!, which he choreographed and starred
in. Three years later, he starred in another popular adaptation,
Cry, The Beloved Country.
He’s danced in heels and in outlandish costumes, he’s danced
for social justice and more. In 2017, he was the ambassador for
the Department of Water and Sanitation in South Africa and
evolved again in the same year to release dance workout videos
incorporating South African moves.
Known for his trademark carefree style and contagious cheer,
he lent his experience to upcoming dancers, stepping in as a judge
in TV talent show competitions. “To me that is the joy of it. I
don’t feel threatened at all for I aim to give up-and-coming
choreographers a chance,” he says.
With over 30 years of experience, Mhlongo has become one
of the most notable personalities in the country. Proving that he
truly is a man of many faces, last year he was named ambassador
of Black Opal, the first male to represent the brand and first
African man to be the face of a makeup company.

38 / TRAVEL / Facts
Baggage allowance on Kenya Airways
flights is usually 32 kg per piece for
business guests and 23 kg per
piece for economy guests.
Loading And Offloading
Kenya Airways strives to
deliver all baggage within
20 minutes of arrival.
The Boeing 787
Dreamliner can
transport over 40
tonnes of cargo, the
Boeing 737-800
can carry 8.4 tonnes
and the Embraer
190 holds approx.
3.3 tonnes.
Kenya Airways
operates two
Boeing 737
aircraft that fly
as full freighters
to 17 different
destinations across
the continent.
Hold baggage and cargo shipments are transported
to their destination below the cabin in the belly of an
aircraft, which is right underneath passengers’ feet. “No
effort is spared to ensure that the baggage or the cargo
shipment is under watertight security, carefully sorted
at the baggage ‘make-up’ area and delivered for loading
into the aircraft,” says Manager Ramp Services Samuel
Njoroge. “A team of loading staff, led by a turnaround
coordinator, ensures that cargo is loaded right inside
the belly, while the baggage is loaded next to the belly
hold door to ensure quick offloading and delivery to the
baggage claim area upon arrival.” Fragile baggage or
cargo is loaded with special care, and business class
and sky-priority baggage is normally loaded last so that
it’s offloaded first on arrival.
Njoroge explains that baggage or cargo can either be
loaded as bulk pieces that are tied down using hold nets
or be put into consolidated units – either containers,
pallets or Unit Load Devices (ULDs) – to ease handling.
“Loading and offloading is done using heavy, complicated
and military-looking machines, such as high loaders
and belt loaders, which are operated by qualified ground
staff. Kenya Airways has invested in a tracking system
that allows the loading team to determine – by a click of
a button – if all baggage has been loaded or offloaded.
If not, it helps us to track down its location.”
Text: Captain Bajaber Image: Alamy

40 / BUSINESS / New industry
WHITE
GOLD
As CAMEL MILK is increasingly being
recognised for its HEALTH BENEFITS,
more and more entrepreneurs are waking
up to the business potential of these
drought-resistant animals.
text Andrea Dijkstra
Shutterstock

BUSINESS / 41
INSIDE HAMDI, a busy Nairobi
café in the Central Business District, the
morning rush is already underway. What
will it be? A macchiato, flat white, or
what about a “camelcino”? Made with
Kenyan camel milk, it looks just like a
regular cappuccino, but at the first sip,
there’s a smoky saltiness that’s different,
but quite tasty. “We also do tea and a
vanilla shake with camel milk,” says
waitress Sofia Gitau.
Traditionally, only pastoralist communities
drank camel milk; but today
camelcinos are popping up in multiple
Nairobi cafés because the middle class is
developing a taste for camel milk. And
not just there. Worldwide, a growing
number of health-conscious consumers
are turning to camel milk because of its
nutritional benefits. Camel milk has
three times as much vitamin C as cow’s
milk, ten times the iron, has less fat and
is rich in vitamin B. And, there are
hopes that it can help control diabetes
because it contains natural insulin. Also,
with less lactose than cow’s milk, it’s
thought that camel milk is better for
those with a lactose allergy.
The Food and Agriculture Organization
of the United Nations estimates
that the global camel milk industry
could be worth up to US$10 billion a
year. And in Kenya, there’s talk of a
“camel rush” as demand outstrips supply.
The country’s camel-dairy business is
still in a nascent phase, however, with
much of the “white gold” being sold in
domestic markets. But, a new group of
entrepreneurs is now tapping into this
business and trying to move from the
traditional consumption of camel milk
towards pasteurised and powdered
forms. “We chose to pasteurise the camel
milk to extend the shelf life and make it
widely available to communities
throughout Kenya,” says Bashir
Warsame, who launched camel-milkprocessing
firm Nuug Camel Milk in
Nairobi last year. The entrepreneur
sources from herders in the southern
and central towns of Voi and Isiolo
respectively. He produces roughly 9,000
litres a month, delivering both camel
milk and four different flavours of camel
yogurt to supermarkets in the Kenyan
capital.
GLOBAL BUZZ
“With camel milk being so nutritious,
it’s on track to becoming the new
superfood,” says Warsame, referring to
other African “superfoods” that are
drawing western customers due to their
high content of nutrients and antioxidants,
such as baobab and tamarind
fruit, hibiscus tea, pumpkin leaves and
ancient grains, including Ethiopia’s tef
and Senegal’s fonio.
WhiteGold, a camel-milk-processing
company that kick-started operations in
the Kenyan town of Nanyuki in 2017, is
seeking approval from the European
Food Safety Authority and the Food
and Drug Administration in the US to
start exporting to those regions. “In the
West, camel milk is being sold as medicinal,
so that’s a super interesting market,”
says founder Jama Warsame (no relation
to Bashir Warsame). WhiteGold is now
producing 13,000 litres of camel milk per
month. In Kenya, the company sells to
Jeroen van Loon
big supermarkets such as Carrefour and
Chandarana Foodplus, and collaborates
with allergists at Aga Khan University
Hospital, Nairobi Hospital and Kenyatta
National Hospital. “They’re doing trials
with our camel milk and the responses
are very good; especially with patients
with diabetes and lactose intolerance,”
adds Warsame. He hopes that Kenya
will become the global research hub for
camel milk.
Entrepreneurs in other African countries
are joining the camel-dairy business
as well. In Mauritania, the Tiviski dairy
has been successful in ending the reliance
on imported long-life and powdered
cow’s milk by setting up a camel-milkprocessing
factory, providing the people
with a fresh and healthy alternative. The
company currently produces camel milk,
camel butter and camel cheese. In Chad
and Kenya, milk cafés are helping to
popularise the consumption of the milk,
while Egypt’s Tayyiba Farms offers
a range of products including camel >
“With camel milk being so nutritious,
it’s on track to becoming the new superfood”
Going global
Camel-milk cappuccinos are not only popping in Nairobi. UAE company Camelicious is selling a
pre-packaged version, and “camelcinos” are also making a careful appearance on café menus
internationally. Last summer, Glasgowʼs Willow Tea Rooms attracted national attention when it
teamed up with international NGO Mercy Corps to support Kenyan camel-milk initiatives. Coming
soon to a café near you perhaps?

42 / BUSINESS / New industry
“Thanks to the profits
from camel milk, I’m
able to send my eight
children to school”
cheese, kefir and Greek yogurt. Nuug is
also exploring the development of various
camel-milk products, including
cheese, ice cream and cosmetics.
CLIMATE CHANGE
Shifting from cows to camels is
also interesting from a climate change
perspective as the gangly cud-chewers
are much more drought-resistant. “In
a bad drought, a cattle owner will lose
about 50 percent of his herd, while with
camels it’s rare to lose more than 16
percent,” says Piers Simpkin, a camel
expert who has studied the animals for
over 30 years. As numerous parts of
Kenya have become drier, according to
the Kenya Camel Association, in recent
years, over 150,000 Kenyans have started
to keep camels.
Mariam Maalim is one of them. She
keeps camels in the fields near Isiolo
town. “My husband and I had over 100
cattle, but as the climate became drier in
this region, the cows stopped producing
milk and around 30 of our cows died
yearly,” says Maalim. “This made us
decide to switch to camels as they can
survive without water and continue to
give milk for more than two weeks.”
Maalim and around 30 other women
founded the Anolei Women’s Camel
Milk Cooperative (CELEP) and now
bring about 5,000 litres of camel milk to
an Isiolo distribution point every day.
“Thanks to the profits from camel milk,
I’m able to send my eight children to
school and one even goes to university,”
says Maalim while handing in her filled
jerrycans. The flavour fluctuates from
almost sweet to salty, depending on what
the camels eat. Here, the smoke used to
sterilise the jerrycans adds a slightly
smoky taste.
Today, even members of the Maasai
people – who traditionally rely on cows
– are starting to see the benefits of these
“ships of the desert”. “With camels you
always have milk in your house,” says Ole
Nkiu, a Maasai. He bought camels after
almost half of his 190 cows died during a
severe drought 10 years ago.
The higher price of the milk attracts
new camel owners as well, according to
Simpkin. “At US$1 a litre, a camel owner
receives five times the price of cow’s
milk,” says the researcher, who adds
that cows and camels can live very well
together as they eat different vegetation.
However, entrepreneurs face some
challenges, such as the camels’ remote
location, which means that camel milk
has to be transported over long distances.
The milk quickly sours in temperatures
averaging 40 degrees Celsius in the north
of Kenya, where the majority of camels
are kept. “And by nature, camels prefer to
graze deep in the wild, often far from
good roads, electricity and other essential
infrastructure,” Bashir Warsame says,
making it harder to source the milk.
These factors have slowed the development
of the industry.
Several organisations have come up
with creative solutions. For example, in
Wajir County, Mercy Corps has helped
to install refrigerated vending machines
for camel milk, allowing traders to
deliver it fresh to the customer without
it going sour; and CELEP has bought a
refrigerated truck to transport their
camel milk to the capital daily. These
measures are being helped by an
increase in herders who keep camels
closer to Nairobi, which makes it easier
for camel milk to be transported quickly
to the processing factories.
Many of the entrepreneurs involved
believe that camel milk can become an
important export for Kenya. “Eightynine
percent of Kenya’s land mass
consists of arid and semi-arid lands,
which are suitable for camels,” says
Bashir Warsame, adding that it has the
potential to grow into a multi-billiondollar
business that can change the lives
of herders and milk traders alike.
Facts & figures
• The one-humped Arabian camels, or dromedaries, inhabit the Horn of Africa and the Middle East
and make up 94% of the world’s camel population, while the critically endangered two-humped
Bactrian camels inhabit Central Asia.
• Camels store fat in their humps, not water. As a camel goes without food, its hump begins to
shrink.
• Camels can raise their body temperature tolerance level as much as six degrees Celsius before
perspiring, thereby conserving body fluids and avoiding unnecessary water loss.
• Somalia is the largest camel-milk producer in the world, followed by Kenya and Mali.
• In Sub-Saharan Africa, camels now contribute about 5% of the total milk production.
Jeroen van Loon

44 / BUSINESS / Book review
Strategic Doing:
Ten Skills for
Agile Leadership
Authors
Edward Morrison, Scott Hutcheson,
Elizabeth Nilsen, Janyce Fadden and
Nancy Franklin
Publisher
Wiley
Bio
The five authors of this book are
members of the Strategic Doing core
team, linked to the Purdue Agile
Strategy Lab. Together, they have
more than 50 years of experience
helping groups adopt an agile strategy
approach.
Pages
224
Summary
The 10 skills in this book are tools
designed to help leaders build and
guide the complex collaborations
needed to deal with today’s complex
challenges. None of us will be equally
good at all the skills, the authors
recognise. Members of the team can
bring different skills to the table.
“Become a more
effective leader and
team participant”
A fast-changing world calls for agile leaders;
people who can lead transformation by
unleashing our full human potential through
collaboration. Where to start? Here are three
crucial skills from the book, Strategic Doing.
Frame the conversation
What does five plus five equal? There’s
only one right answer. But what if
instead you ask: What two numbers
equal 10? Suddenly there are more
possibilities. The authors use this
example, by Tina Seelig of Stanford
University, to demonstrate the power
of the questions we pose. “A good
framing question is an invitation to
deeper conversation that will lead
to more questions, experimentation
and, ultimately, innovation.”
Look for the big easy
As an agile leader you should be able
to sort through “many options to
identify one that has the best chance
of success”. This is the one that “has
the largest impact and is the easiest
to implement”. But, resist the urge
to go “big” when it comes to the size
of the challenge, the authors warn.
Take baby steps if necessary to foster
early successes.
Set 30/30 meetings
Create a regular “feedback loop” by
organising 30-minute meetings every
30 days to review results and make
any necessary changes. This is the
skill, that, “more than any other,
differentiates the successful groups
from those that had more limited
impact. Simply put, 30/30s provide
the learning and accountability a
team needs to make optimal choices
and to stay engaged”. In turbulent
times, consider getting together more
frequently. Why? “A system without
a feedback loop can spin out of
control.” Just think of what would
happen to a heating system without
a thermostat.
About the book
Each chapter introduces
a different skill needed
for agile leadership and
features a case study as
well as suggested exercises
about how to put each skill
to work.
Text: Annemarie Hoeve

Tips / TRAVEL / 45
Market value
From wood-carved art and
handmade jewellery to Ankara
textiles and metalwork: the Lekki
Market offers a diverse variety of
arts and crafts from all over West
Africa. Strolling among the wellorganised
stands is a pleasure
in itself, especially if you go
early; and remember that you’re
expected to bargain!
Natural selection
Take a break from the urban
chaos and nestle into nature at
the Lekki Conservation Centre.
Its 401-metre-long, suspended
canopy walkway – the longest
in Africa – provides an exciting
panoramic view of the jungle’s
monkeys, crocodiles, giant
tortoises and rare birds. You can
also enjoy nature trails, zip lines,
bird hides and picnic facilities
while you’re there.
Text: Emma van Egmond Image: ANP Foto
Urban
Gateway
The former Nigerian capital,
Lagos is a city with countless
different facets. Discover the top
highlights right here...
Art house
Nike Davies-Okundaye, one
of Nigeria’s most important
artists, runs four big art galleries,
one of which is in Lagos. The
Nike Centre for Art and Culture
celebrates the rich culture
of Nigeria, and in addition to
its impressive collection of
contemporary and traditional
paintings, it also offers handdesigned
textiles and jewellery.
And with a bit of luck, you’ll run
into the charismatic “Mama
Nike” herself while you’re there.
Ocean retreats
Lagos is home to several beautiful
beaches, which are perfect
for soaking up the sun on the
powdery white sand beneath the
swaying palm trees. Eleko Beach
is great for a peaceful swim,
while Tarkwa Bay Beach – just a
15-minute boat ride from Victoria
Island – offers enough swell for
surfing and other fun watersports.

46 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance
At a glance
Uganda
Have a closer look at the potential of Uganda.
The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,
touristic attractions and social trends of today.
text Yvette Bax infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
Sources: cia.gov Sources: nationsonline.org / cia.gov / gfmag.com / OEC
Passport
Official name Republic of Uganda
Population 40,853,749 (July 2018 est.)
GDP
US$26.62 billion (2017 est.)
Capital
Kampala
Other cities Entebbe, Lira, Jinja,
Mbale, Soroti, Gulu
Currency
Ugandan shilling
Local time UTC +3
Neighbouring Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, Democratic
countries
Republic of the Congo and South Sudan
Languages English, Luganda and Swahili
Flight info
Kenya Airways operates daily flights to
Entebbe International Airport
GDP – by sector of origin (outer chart)
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
percentages
5.7
2015
2.3
2016 2017
GDP real growth rate
4.8
1,000 km
(2017 est.)
Business & economy
+
Agriculture is one of the most
important sectors of the
Ugandan economy, employing
72% of the workforce.
2015
2020
Uganda is
Africa’s biggest
exporter of
coffee. In 2015,
the government
launched an
ambitious plan
to increase
production from
4 million to 20
million bags
of coffee
annually
by 2020.
Uganda is rich in
mineral resources, including
gold, copper, cobalt and tin,
although these are not yet
fully exploited. It also has
deposits of rare-earth
elements such as vermiculite.
Uganda discovered
crude oil reserves over 10 years ago
and expects to begin producing oil in
2022. The government is working with foreign
investors on financing plans to build the necessary
pipeline and refineries.
Sources: Uganda Coffee Development Authority (UCDA) / cia.gov / reuters.com

BUSINESS /47
Nature highlights
Lake Bunyonyi
Close to the Rwandan border lies
Uganda’s most beautiful lake, with
terraced hillsides, hidden bays and
29 islands. Since there are no crocodiles
or hippos, one can swim in the lake,
which covers a surface of 46 sq km.
Ssese Islands
For the best beach holiday, visit the white
sandy beaches of the Ssese Islands. The
archipelago consists of 84 islands, which can
be found along the shore of Lake Victoria.
Lake Bunyonyi
Mgahinga Gorilla
National Park
Uganda’s most famous
four-legged inhabitants by far are the
mountain gorillas, so this park is an
absolute must-visit. The park also offers
stunning views of lush, green rainforest
and cloud-shrouded volcanoes. Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park is another
top choice.
Jinja
Jinja is famous for its white-water
rafting. Located where the Nile River
leaves Lake Victoria, itʼs an
exhilarating place to pump
up your adrenaline.
Sources: worldatlas.com / justfunfacts.com / afrikanza.com
Top five imports & exports
Import countries
Export
products
Trivia
Uganda is home to the snow-capped
Rwenzori Mountains. They are among the
highest in Africa, reaching a peak height
of 5,109 m.
1. China 20%
2. India 12%
3. UAE 11%
4. Kenya 8.7%
5. Japan 6.4%
5,000
Uganda is
home to 11%
of the world’s
bird species.
4,000
Export countries
1. UAE 15%
2. Kenya 14%
UGANDA
1.
Coffee
20%
2.
Gold
15%
3,000
A multilingual
country, Uganda
has approx.
40 languages.
40
Source: oec.world
3. South Sudan 9.1%
4. DR Congo 6.8%
5. Rwanda 6.1%
Import products
3. Dried legumes 3.5%
4. Fish fillets 3.1%
5. Cocoa beans 2.7%
5. Cars 2.4%
4. Broadcasting equipment 3.7%
3. Packaged medicaments 4%
2. Palm oil 4.4%
1. Refined petroleum 16%
2,000
1,000
Uganda is also called The Pearl
of Africa. The phrase appeared in
Winston Churchill’s book, My African
Journey (1908):
“For magnificence,
for variety of form
and color, for
profusion of brilliant
life — bird, insect,
reptile, beast — for
vast scale —
Uganda is truly the
Pearl of Africa.”
Sources: worldatlas.com / justfunfacts.com / afrikanza.com

48 / TREND / Sustainability
Rethinking
Plastic
It’s clear that something must be done to tackle
plastic pollution, and across the African continent
the SEARCH FOR SOLUTIONS is on. But why
not just recycle? If only it was that simple.
text Anthea Rowan
As I wander through the airport terminal, I worry about
the hundreds of people carrying a plastic water bottle. Many
will abandon them at security, half full. I carry a reusable
variety, and I feel simultaneously dismayed and smug when I
top it up at the water station and read the digital message
indicating that I have helped to save 1,793,583 bottles from
landfill.
Where glass seems to bear something of the enduring, the
pure, and eminently recyclable, plastic seems synonymous with
our takeaway, throwaway culture. Will it, and will all these plastic
bottles that that we discard once drained of their contents,
drown us out? Like plastic bags, will plastic bottles become the
next global scourge?
The question is met with a resounding no. “Plastics have
many positive attributes,” says Keiran Smith, founder and
CEO of Kenyan recycling company Mr. Green Africa. For a
start, unlike glass, it’s unbreakable, he points out. “Plastic in
Africa is a vital material that provides a safe and hygienic
carrier and protector for all manner of food, beverage and
medical stuffs,” adds Gabriel Opoku-Asare, Diageo’s Head of
Society across Africa. The multinational beverage company is
part of the Africa Plastics Recycling Alliance, a new collaboration
that also includes Coca-Cola, Unilever and Nestlé. It
may sound like just another corporate social responsibility
initiative, but the alliance is serious about driving real change.
“We have a clear vision at Coca-Cola to only use sustainable
packaging,” says Head of Technical SAF at Coca-Cola
Africa Dr Casper Durandt. “We have set our global targets at
100 percent recovery of all our containers and the use of
50 percent recycled content. We design our bottles to be 100 >
What you can do?
• Know your plastics and see
which can be recycled. This
is indicated on the item itself.
• Separate plastics that can be
recycled, especially PET, and
take these to a recycling point.
• Acquaint yourself with recycling
organisations such as rePATRN,
PETCO Kenya and Mr. Green
Africa. Find out how to support
them or start your own local
initiatives.
• Put pressure on local
government and businesses
to address their use of plastics
and work to invest in recycling.
• Always have reusable bags
with you or in the car to prevent
needing to buy a plastic one.
• Be sure to make use of reusable
water bottles and coffee
containers whenever you can.
• Amp up your efforts to recycle
not only plastic waste, but all
waste, whatever the material.

Shutterstock
TREND / 49

50 / TREND / Sustainability
ANP Foto
An employee loads a machine
with recycled chips made from
plastic bottles at the Weeco plastic
recycling factory at the Athi River
industrial zone near Nairobi, Kenya.
percent recyclable and are already recovering over 100 percent
of the PET bottles that we put out into the environment.”
Over 100 percent? “We recover not only all our PET bottles,
but also tons of other brands’ bottles in our efforts,” he says.
SAME, BUT DIFFERENT
Not all plastic is created equal. There are several different
types with very different uses. PET or PETE (polyethylene
terephthalate) is used in water, juice and soft drink bottles;
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) is used to make, among
other things, bottles for toiletries, such as shampoo; PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) is used in plastic wrap and rainwear;
PP (polypropylene) is used to make yogurt and deli/takeaway
containers; PS (polystyrene) is used in foam drink cups,
takeaway food containers and plastic cutlery.
Of them all, PET is “the kindest” to both people
and planet, according to Durandt. PET plastic bottles are
recovered and recycled many, many times he explains, and
using these bottles has brought safe drinking water to regions
where this is a challenge. The valuable building blocks in this
plastic are the MEG and TA molecules. Durandt stresses
the importance of recovering PET, so as not to waste these
resources. “Plastic laced with a biodegradable element is generally
not recyclable. We are against adding these elements to
PET as we believe this valuable resource must be recycled and
not left to biodegrade with no value extraction,” he says. In
other words, it’s about getting the most out of the plastic that
is already in use.
So, how to collect so many bottles? And, what can you
make out of plastic bottles, other than more plastic bottles?
This is where PETCO Kenya comes in. “It’s busy turning the
tide on collection and recycling PET in the country,” says
“The first mile after
consumption is the most
difficult part in recycling”
– Keiran Smith –
Mr. Green Africa CEO
More than bottles
Plastic recycled from bottles can be used in a wide
range of new products, not just for making new
bottles. For example, rePATRN is currently working
on producing a yarn from bottles that can be used
in all kinds of textile applications. PETCO Kenya is
partnering with Chinese recycling company, Weeco,
in Kenya to the same end. Another innovator is The
Ghana Recycling Initiative by Private Enterprises
(GRIPE). It’s incorporating plastic recycling material
into modified concrete bricks for use in the building
industry. The first test case is in new school latrines.

TREND / 51
Durandt. PETCO Kenya has plans to collect and recycle 6,000
tonnes of PET in 2019, and spends significant funds on auditing
tonnes that are actually recycled. But, collecting plastic
remains a challenge: transport is expensive, distances are vast,
and many communities are still unaware that a discarded plastic
bottle holds future value. “The first mile after consumption
is the most difficult part in recycling,” says Smith. “Moving
bottles is costly, so it requires innovation and creativity.”
A new mindset is needed. Ghana-based start-up rePATRN
is trying to stop people from perceiving plastic bottles as
waste, but as a “precious and useful new resource” instead.
Its founder Jeffrey Provencal observes: “I think it boils down
to a lack of understanding of the value of the materials. If
people would truly understand it, they would invest in formal
collection systems and attitudes would change.”
According to Diageo’s Opoku-Asare, many African
markets simply do not yet have the infrastructure to support
recycling. This requires government or rather public private
partnerships and investment. First, you need to establish the
collection of the used material, and then the recycling. The
final step is the reintroduction into supply chains, often as
something completely different. Yet, this is costly and takes
time, Opoku-Asara emphasises, and some markets are further
along than others. “In Ghana, Diageo and its partners saw
a need in Accra, which was famed for its waste problem, and
came together to start the city on a journey to build both the
infrastructure for recycling as well as greater awareness. Key
is creating the aftermarket; so you can finance the investment
and future work. The aftermarket needs to create jobs and
start paying for the collection and reprocessing,” he says.
A VALUABLE COMMODITY
Beyond an awareness of the value of recycling, people
also need to understand the value of plastic as a commodity.
rePATRN hopes to drive this conversation by buying up large
quantities of the material. “PET is an internationally traded
commodity, so if it can’t be used within a certain country, it
can be sold on the international market,” Provencal says.
This awareness is already increasing, especially among some
of the most marginalised people trying to scrape together a
living, notes Smith. They have spotted an opportunity to
collect used plastics to sell. Moving away from plastic bottles
could disrupt their livelihoods. “We see waste pickers as
invisible heroes. They are the ones creating the most value in
the whole waste-recycling chain. They are also making a positive
contribution to society and the environment. Including
them in the plastic-recycling chain is a triple win.”
Plastic, in single-use products, is increasingly banned
globally; and on the African continent, single-use plastic bags
are the most common of such products to be banned. Kenya
was an early pioneer and today, of the 25 African countries that
have introduced national bans on plastic bags, more than half
have shifted into implementation. In South Africa, PETCO has
had impressive results in increasing the recycling rate of PET
from 16 percent in 2005 to 66 percent in 2018. Ghana, Tanzania
and Senegal are all making great strides. In Ghana, the Ghana
Recycling Initiative by Private Enterprises (GRIPE), a recycling
alliance of like-minded businesses, has looked at the economic
value in recycling to ensure that it has long-term potential.
Until things progress further, how best to deal with the
plastic bottles around us? Practically speaking, keep them out
of national parks and off beaches where they are at risk of
causing litter. But the general, and for some perhaps somewhat
surprising, consensus by those at the forefront of plastic
producing and recycling, is to keep them firmly in circulation.
36
Packaging accounts for 36% of global
plastic usage.
1,000
Plastic bags and styrofoam containers can
take up to 1,000 years to decompose.
400 Million
The world produces 400 million tonnes
of plastic every year.
8 Billion
The resource value of waste in Africa is
estimated at nearly US$8 billion per year.
5 Trillion
An estimated 5 trillion plastic bags
are used annually, worldwide.
Employees sort plastic bottles at the Weeco plastic recycling factory at the
Athi River industrial zone near Nairobi, Kenya.
ANP Foto

52 / TRAVEL / London
1
2
3
4

TRAVEL / 53
5
The
Most
Magical
6
7
Getty Images, Dana van Leeuwen, Gallery Stock, Toa Heftiba, Jamie Davies, Marcel Heil, David Dibert (Unsplash)
Time
London comes to life during
the FESTIVE SEASON, with spectacular
Christmas lights, atmospheric walks
through frost-covered parks, and uniquely
British rituals.
text Julia Buckley
CHARLES DICKENS has a lot to answer for. At least, that’s
what you’ll think if you’re in London anywhere near December. It’s
something that will strike you standing in Trafalgar Square, gazing up
at the gargantuan Norway spruce, dusted with fairy lights; an annual gift
to Londoners from the people of Oslo.
It will cross your mind sitting on the top floor of a double-decker
bus as it winds its way up through the curved Regent Street with its >
1. Christmas lights in Regent Street 2. Two vintage telephone boxes in the snow
3. Evening in Soho 4. The Christmas market in Hyde Park 5. A festive latte 6. Ice skating
at Somerset House in London 7. Westminster Bridge with Big Ben in the background

54 / TRAVEL / London
world-class shops set in grand neoclassical buildings, which are adorned
with the most intricate light displays.
And it will hit you once again, as you make your way into the
Natural History Museum, with Londoners completely ignoring its
palatial neogothic architecture as they practise figures-of-eight on the
ice rink, which is set up outside for the festive period.
Yes, Dickens has a lot to answer for. His famous book, A Christmas
Carol, may have been published in 1843, but remains so intrinsically
linked with London that it’s almost as if the city goes into character
during the festive season. Normally reserved locals – because in London,
talking to strangers is so rare that you’d think it was forbidden – clink
glasses of mulled wine at Christmas festivals and German-style markets.
People smile at each other as they stand watching carol singers.
THE BEST OF TIMES
It’s as if my fellow citizens and I learn how not to be British. That’s
why it’s one of my favourite times in the UK capital. Yes, London in
December is dark by 4 p.m. Yes, it’s normally cold (and often, though
not always, rainy), but the seasonal cheer warms the city in a way that
rarely happens at other times of year.
If you’re going to be in London in the run-up to this special time,
you’re going to be busy. There are so many extra attractions that you could
forget your regular sightseeing itinerary and spend your time going from
one event to the next. Winter Wonderland, which runs from 21 November
until 5 January, is one of the best-loved. It’s a spectacular takeover of
Hyde Park that sees the eastern section of the royal park closed off and
filled with stalls, bars, fairground rides, and a big wheel looping over the
city skyline. There’s something for everyone, from a Santa’s Grotto to a
nightly comedy club. Though it’s open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., it’s better to
visit during the evening. Not only is it at it’s best when it’s all illuminated,
it’s also more lively and fun once Londoners head here after work.
LIGHTS & SIGHTS
Luckily, if you want to sightsee, you can take in some classic London
experiences while soaking up the festive spirit. For starters, there’s the
shopping. For the full experience, the switching on of the Oxford Street
Christmas light display is a grand annual attraction, marking the unofficial
start of London’s holiday season. This normally occurs at the start of
November. The lights are often switched on by a national celebrity, with
great fanfare, in front of a million-strong audience. And while it’s nice to
go shopping along Britain’s most famous street, I prefer the slightly less
famous displays. Regent Street, which intersects with Oxford Street, is
much prettier thanks to its grand buildings. And a couple of blocks over
from Regent Street is Carnaby Street, a popular shopping destination since
the 1960s, which also has fantastic light displays.
For something more atmospheric, join the Londoners at Kew Gardens,
the spectacular royal botanic gardens, approx. 12 km west of Oxford Street.
The glasshouses and gardens are illuminated with festive lights on a trail
that extends over a kilometre, winding around lit plants and pausing >
“Trees sparkle
with pink, blue and
white lights”
BEYOND THE CAPITAL
Waddesdon Manor
Northwest of London,
this incredible French-style
chateau built by the Rothschild
family in the 1800s, goes all out,
with 13 Christmas trees, carol
singers, giant Instagrammable
baubles and a fair with 80 stalls.
Open 16 November to 5 January.
waddesdon.org.uk
Mousehole
A tiny Cornish fishing village
at the far western tip of
England, Mousehole erects
dazzling light displays around its
picture-perfect harbour. From 14
December to 4 January.
Birmingham
The city’s Frankfurt Christmas
Market is the largest Germanthemed
market outside
Germany and Austria. Itʼs a
spectacular introduction to the city.
From 7 November to 23 December.
thebfcm.co.uk
Leeds Castle
This 900-year-old castle in Kent
has a Christmas market in the
grounds, plus a fairground
with vintage rides including a
Victorian carousel and reindeer.
Try wreath-making and see
traditional gingerbread houses
on display. Weekends from
23 November to 15 December.
leeds-castle.com
1. Plate of mince pies 2. Christmas tree ornaments on display at a Christmas market
3. A Winter Robin 4. Standing guard at Buckingham Palace 5. Santa Claus tree ornament
at the Christmas market in Hyde Park 6. Detail from an old red London bus 7. A snowy
street in Cambridge 8. Bob & Blossom 9. Daunt Books, one of the most beautiful
bookshops in London

TRAVEL / 55
2
1 3 4
Getty Images, Robert Harding, Stocksy, Dana van Leeuwen, Kutan Ural, Craig Whitehead, Pauline Loroy (Unsplash)
8
5
6 7 9

56 / TRAVEL / London
1
2 3
4
7
5 6 8
Matteo Colombo, Getty Images, Dana van Leeuwen, Toa Heftiba (Unsplash)

TRAVEL / 57
“Warm up with a
drink by the fire at
one of the old-world
pubs that London
does so well”
WHERE TO EAT
Rock & Sole Plaice
Founded in 1871, this fish and chip
shop is a few minutes’ walk from
Covent Garden, and is one of the
best places to try Britain’s unofficial
national dish.
rockandsoleplaice.com
Gŏng
London’s highest bar sits on level
52 of the Shard, the city’s tallest
skyscraper, with breathtaking views
over the River Thames. Be sure to
make a reservation requesting a
front-facing table.
gong-shangri-la.com
WHERE TO STAY
11 Cadogan Gardens
This small Chelsea hotel is as
quintessentially English as they
come, with superb concierges.
It’s much more intimate than the
large London hotels.
11cadogangardens.com
Sea Containers London
Views don’t get much better
than from this historic building,
right on the River Thames at
Blackfriars. Formerly the Mondrian
London, it’s one of the bestdesigned
hotels in the capital, too.
seacontainerslondon.com
at a lake, overlooking the world’s largest Victorian greenhouse and the
lush trees sparkling with pink, blue and white lights behind it. It’s such an
impressive sight that even jaded Londoners make the hour-long journey
on public transport. Kids meet Santa Claus, while adults get stuck into
the mulled wine or a spicy “hot toddy” (a warm whisky drink), which are
traditions here at this time of year.
SUMPTUOUS EATS
Food and drink is, of course, a big part of the season, and in London
that means a rumble through the famous food hall at Fortnum & Mason,
which is better than Harrods. It also means having a festive afternoon tea
in one of the five-star hotels. I love Claridge’s, which adds turkey and
cranberry sandwiches, chocolate logs and fruit-soaked mini Christmas
puddings to its regular tea menu, and there’s a Christmas tree in the
lobby that’s decorated by a famous fashion house each year. You’ll need
to make a reservation several weeks ahead, however.
In Richmond, west of the city centre, the Petersham Hotel also does a
festive menu overlooking the River Thames, with the addition of fake
snow swirling around the room. Work off your meal with a walk around
Richmond Park, a royal park that has over 600 resident deer, first installed
here by King Charles I in the 1600s. At dusk, when it’s dusted with frost or
snow, the city feels a world away.
LIKE A LOCAL
Warm up back in town with a drink by the fire at one of the old-world
pubs that London does so well – the Fox & Hounds, a tiny, low-ceilinged
pub in posh Belgravia, and the Holly Bush in stylish Hampstead are my
favourites – and then finish the evening with some famous London theatre.
Ballet is a Christmas ritual for many people. The Royal Ballet, in Covent
Garden, will stage The Sleeping Beauty from 7 November until 16 January.
If you love sassy jokes and over-the-top costumes, don’t miss that other
great seasonal tradition for all ages: pantomime. This year, Goldilocks and
the Three Bears will be on at the London Palladium in the West End from
7 December until 12 January. In East London, the Hackney Empire,
which is beloved by locals for its pantomime, will stage Dick Whittington
and His Cat from 23 November until 5 January.
There are plenty of day trips to be had around London of course,
and this is one of the most beautiful times of the year to strike out. On
a misty, frosty winter’s day, Cambridge is stunning: its famous university
colleges rise from the mist on the green fields along the River Cam. And,
the pretty Cotswolds town of Bourton-on-the-Water comes alive with
festive lights plastered all over its honey-coloured houses. If you’ve seen
2006 romantic comedy, The Holiday, starring Cameron Diaz and Kate
Winslet, you’ll know what to expect.
But, nothing beats being in the capital at this time of year. There’s a
lot to thank Charles Dickens for.
Kenya Airways operates non-stop
flights to London from Nairobi’s
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
1. A snowy stroll on Birdcage Walk 2. Underground tunnel at King’s Cross Station
3. “Girl with a Dolphin Fountain” sculpture 4. A festive cappuccino 5. The Christmas
market in Hyde Park 6. Harrods by night 7. A London Underground sign 8. Mulled wine
at a Christmas market stall in South Bank

58 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
INTO
THE
WILD
In 1966 a group of
CHIMPANZEES from
European zoos were
resettled on RUBONDO
ISLAND in Lake Victoria
by a conservationist with
a big dream. Today, the
colony is flourishing and
open to visitors.
text Nigel Tisdall
George Turner

WILDLIFE / 59

60 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
xxxxxxxxxxx Nigel Tisdall
“We were rewarded with a glimpse
of five chimps including a baby”
Seeing chimpanzees in the wild
is one of Africa’s many great animal
encounters; providing you’re up for
some hot and arduous trekking. Given
a bit of luck, travellers can spot them
swinging through the trees in various
national parks in Uganda, Rwanda and
Tanzania, but the most intriguing place
to track them has to be Rubondo, a
remote island in the southwest corner of
Lake Victoria.
CROSS-CONTINENTAL JOURNEY
Covering 237 sq km, this forest
sanctuary in Tanzania is the scene of
an unusual conservation project that
began in 1966 when 10 of these engaging
primates were rescued from European
zoos and transported here on a 16,000-
km journey via Antwerp and Dar es
Salaam. Six other chimps followed
later. The mastermind behind this
well-intentioned but unorthodox
relocation was Professor Bernhard
Grzimek, a German conservationist
who was director of the Frankfurt
Zoological Society for 29 years.
What inspired him to do this?
Chimps can’t swim, so Rubondo made
Asilia Africa

WILDLIFE / 61
Nigel Tisdall
are also elephants on the island). They
take pride in neither offering the great
apes food, nor using sound to draw their
attention.
Only in 2016, after three years of
patient stalking, watching and remaining
visible but unobtrusive, did Asilia
Africa reach a point when it felt it could
offer guests a three-night “habituation
experience” in which they spend time
with the team trying to spot, admire and
learn about the chimps.
Initially, there were disappointments,
but this summer, 9 out of 10 guests had
successful encounters, including witnessing
chimps mate, hunt and feed on baby
bushbuck. The dry season from June
to September is the best time for this,
although sightings are by no means
guaranteed. My small group had an
exhausting day and a half of sweaty
hikes through the thick forest before we
were rewarded with a glimpse of five
chimps including a baby. One mischievous
six-year-old male, Mgwesa, had a
fine time sending twigs and branches
crashing down on our heads before he
bounced away to join his mates.
Chimpanzees share about 98 percent
of our DNA. They kiss and hold >
a natural haven. It’s also free of large
predators, making it a place where “rare
animals could be settled without risk of
being killed the next day”. Grzimek
also shipped in rhinos, giraffes, roan
antelopes and black-and-white colobus
monkeys, hoping to later add gorillas,
bongo antelopes and okapis to his
Noah’s Ark-like menagerie. The naturalist
was passionate about Africa and its
wildlife, winning an Oscar in 1959 for his
documentary, Serengeti Shall Not Die,
and he hoped his refuge would encourage
tourists visiting Tanzania to do more
than pay “lightning visits” to well-known
attractions, such as Ngorongoro Crater
and the Serengeti.
FREE AT LAST
Once released from their wooden
crates, which were placed on the shores
of Rubondo after five weeks in transit,
the chimps initially showed a reluctance
to be free, but in time, they disappeared
into the forests and became acclimatised.
Now, 54 years later, the island has 75
chimps that are thriving here in two
groups, one of which is the centrepiece
of an ambitious habituation project
that’s a joint operation between the
Tanzania National Parks Authority,
the conservation NGO, Honeyguide,
and Asilia Africa, a safari operator
based in Arusha that manages a small,
upmarket camp here.
Habituation, which in this case
means getting the chimps used to the
presence of humans and developing a
trusting and stressless relationship, is a
long game. The island has a 12-strong
team of trackers and observers who are
accompanied by an armed ranger (there
“One mischievous six-year-old
male had a fine time sending branches
crashing down on our heads”
Nigel Tisdall

62 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
So much to see
Rubondo Island is a true wildlife
haven. About 80% of the park is
covered by dense forest. In addition
to chimpanzees, the island is home
to over 200 elephants, some 60
giraffes, as well as sitatunga (a
semi-aquatic antelope) and over
40 species of orchid. Look up
in the trees and you might well
spot grey parrots; a flock of these
gorgeous birds with bright red tail
feathers was brought here in 2000
after being confiscated in Nairobi
during illegal shipment to Asia. It
is just one of the 300-plus resident
and migratory bird species. Out
on the lake, fishing for Nile perch
is a popular activity, but don’t try
swimming – the water is full of
hippos and crocodiles.
hands and make tools, so it’s no surprise
that getting close to them brings an
electric rush and, perhaps, a mutual
sense of wonder. The experience is even
more memorable in the wild, rather than
at a zoo, because you meet them on their
own terms; and when you see the speed
and agility with which they move
through the forest, it’s abundantly clear
who’s king of these jungles. “The similarities
between chimps and humans
never ceases to amaze me,” says
Daniel Juma, manager of Rubondo
Island Camp. “Whether it’s caring for
their young or drumming on a tree for
entertainment, to watch them behave
just like us is deeply moving.”
What does the future hold for
Rubondo’s chimps, now that the world
is learning about their remarkable story?
Without doubt, they’re exceedingly
Asilia Africa
George Turner
fortunate, with little to fear, plenty of
space and lots to eat. This is good news
because chimps are endangered. A
century ago, there was probably a
million of them; now the World Wide
Fund For Nature (WWF) estimates that
their numbers are down to between
172,700 and 299,700.
“Habituation is both conservation
in action and a unique opportunity for
wildlife enthusiasts,” says Gordie Owles,
an Asilia Africa director who was been
working on this project since its inception.
Over the last seven years, his
company has donated more than
US$255,000 to the habituation of
Rubondo’s chimps.
ON THE UP
“Visitor numbers are climbing,” says
Owles. “But, we can only claim success
when the revenue they create can fully
fund the running of Rubondo Island
National Park and bring benefits to the
surrounding communities.” At present,
the camp employs 34 mostly local workers,
while the park supports a staff of 70.
Of course, Rubondo’s chimps know
nothing of such issues as they snooze
and play in the trees; nor do they realise
how they’re now attracting travellers,
exactly as Grzimek intended. Or do
they? When you look them in the eye,
with their wide grins and old-man faces,
it’s impossible not to feel a connection
with our closest living relative from the
animal kingdom. I like to think we’re all
working together on this because, as the
strange tale of Rubondo Island proves,
dreams can come true.

WILDLIFE / 63
“With their wide grins and
old-man faces, it’s impossible
not to feel a connection”
George Turner

Advertorial
World Leaders to Accelerate
Progress for Women
Fifty years ago, women faced many challenges, such as obtaining
contraception and risking death while giving birth. While there have
been improvements with issues such as these, more progress is
needed. The Nairobi Summit on ICPD25 aims to close the gap.
A
global movement to give
women real choices in life
gained momentum in the 1960s,
culminating in the 1994
International Conference on
Population and Development (ICPD) in
Cairo, where 179 countries committed to
empowering women in all spheres of their
lives, including sexual and reproductive
health, as a pathway to development.
These days, many more women have
The Nairobi Summit on
ICPD25 Fact File
5,000: Number of delegates
expected in Nairobi for the event
Venue: Kenyatta International
Conference Centre (KICC), Nairobi
Kenya
Conveners: Government of Kenya,
Government of Denmark and UNFPA
Date: 12-14 November, 2019
Website: nairobisummiticpd.org
access to contraception and there are
fewer maternal deaths. But, the goals
have not been reached and this is why
the upcoming Nairobi Summit on ICPD25
is so important.
Jointly convened by the Government of
Kenya, the Government of Denmark and
UNFPA, the United Nations’ sexual and
reproductive health agency, the summit
will help mobilise the political will and
financial commitments needed to, finally,
fully achieve the goals agreed to in 1994.
As over 5,000 delegates gather in Nairobi,
a lot will be weighing on their minds: How
will they make family planning accessible
to the over 230 million women who want
to prevent pregnancy but are not using
modern contraception? What can be done
to save the lives of the 830 women who
will lose their lives today from preventable
causes during pregnancy or childbirth?
How will they protect the 33,000 girls who
will be forced into marriage today? What
will they do to protect the 11,000 girls who
may be subjected to female genital
mutilation in the next 24 hours?
The Nairobi Summit on ICPD25 will bring
diverse voices together to find solutions
to these problems. Not only will there be
heads of state and government representatives,
but there will also be grassroots
and civil society organisations, young
people, business leaders, faith-based
organisations, indigenous peoples,
people with disabilities and many others
interested in the pursuit of sexual and
reproductive health and rights.
The summit will also serve as a springboard
for governments and others to
announce voluntary global commitments
that will hasten progress.
The Nairobi Summit on ICPD25 has the
potential to be a watershed moment,
just like Cairo was, saving lives and
transforming the future for hundreds
of millions of people.
We all deserve a world where everyone
enjoys their rights. If not now, when?
*Kenya Airways is the Official Airline of the Nairobi Summit on ICPD25

ENTERTAINMENT / 65
Kenya Airways
offers its passengers
complimentary inflight
entertainment.
The programme will
vary in different aircraft
types. Check your
screen to view the
selection on your flight.
Relax & Enjoy
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.
Aquaman
(read more on the next page)
“I’m no leader. I came because
I had no choice. I came to save my home,
and the people that I love”
– Arthur Curry –
Aquaman
MOVIE RATINGS
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval NR Not rated Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.

66 / ENTERTAINMENT
New Releases
Aquaman
ACTION
Aquaman is the sixth instalment
in the DC Extended Universe.
It’s also the first feature-length
film to be based on the character
of Aquaman and boasts the
accolade of highest grossing DC
release.
A star-studded cast and spectacular
visual effects make this film an aquatic
adventure of epic proportions.
Thomas Curry’s life is forever altered
when he unwittingly rescues Atlanna,
the queen of Atlantis, during a storm.
Charmed by her ethereal beauty and
strange customs, Thomas falls for
Atlanna and she for him. They have a
son soon after, whom they name
Arthur. The boy inherits his mother’s
aquatic powers and her ability to
commune with marine life forms.
While Arthur is still a child, Atlanna
is forced to abandon her family and
return to the ocean. Arthur grows up
to be a powerful and skilled warrior,
but renounces his Atlantean heritage
when he learns of his mother’s execution
by her own people.
Arthur can’t escape his destiny, however,
and in time he reluctantly takes
up the mantle of hero in order to
protect his people.
Dive in with Aquaman on board
Kenya Airways now!
The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part (2019) ANIMATION
It’s been five years since everything was awesome and the citizens are facing a
new threat: Lego Duplo invaders from outer space who destroy everything.
Chris Pratt, Elizabeth Banks. PG, 107 mins, Director: Mike Mitchell
Crazy Rich Asians (2018) COMEDY
This contemporary romantic comedy, based on the global bestseller, follows
New Yorker Rachel Chu to Singapore to meet her boyfriend’s family.
Constance Wu, Michelle Yeoh. PG-13, 120 mins, Director: Jon M. Chu
Jason Momoa, Amber Heard. PG-13,
143 mins, Director: James Wan
Did you know?
~ Jason Momoa specifically requested Temuera Morrison for the role
of Arthur’s father because Morrison is one of Momoa’s acting idols.
~ Director Jason Wan revealed that he had a choice between
directing The Flash and Aquaman but chose the latter because
Aquaman is an underdog.
Indian Horse (2017) DRAMA
Follows the life of Canadian First Nations boy Saul Indian Horse as he survives
school and life amid the racism of the 1970s.
Sladen Peltier. PG-13, 101 mins, Director: Stephen S. Campanelli

ENTERTAINMENT / 67
New Releases
The Hate U Give (2018) CRIME
Starr witnesses the fatal shooting of her best friend, Khalil, at the hands of
a police officer.
Amandla Stenberg. PG-13, 133 mins, Director: George Tillman Jr.
Head Full of Honey (2018) COMEDY
A man suffering from Alzheimer’s embarks on a final road trip with his
granddaughter.
Emily Mortimer, Matt Dillon. PG-13, 128 mins, Director: Til Schweiger
Stan & Ollie (2018) BIOGRAPHY
Laurel and Hardy, the world’s most famous comedy duo, attempt to reignite
their film careers as they embark on a gruelling theatre tour.
John C. Reilly, Steve Coogan. PG, 98 mins, Director: Jon S. Baird
Second Act (2018) COMEDY
A big-box store worker reinvents her life and shows Madison Avenue what
street smarts can do.
Jennifer Lopez, Vanessa Hudgens. PG-13, 103 mins, Director: Peter Segal
The Mule (2018) CRIME
A 90-year-old horticulturist and Korean War veteran turns drug mule for a
Mexican cartel.
Clint Eastwood, Bradley Cooper. R, 116 mins, Director: Clint Eastwood
The Kid Who Would Be King (2019) ADVENTURE
A band of kids embark on an epic quest to thwart a medieval menace.
Louis Ashbourne Serkis, Tom Taylor, Rebecca Ferguson. PG, 120 mins,
Director: Joe Cornish

68 / ENTERTAINMENT
African Highlights
Jackie and the Genie
Love, Food and Everything In Between
What the Heart Sees
Film
Picks from
the continent
We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,
including drama and comedy.
Jackie and the Genie (2018) COMEDY
A young girl with a difficult life in Uganda meets a genie who gives her
magic powers that change her life.
Mutebi Farouke, Yasin Lubowa, Patricia Nabakooza. NR, 120 mins,
Director: Andrew Wagaba
Love, Food and Everything in Between (2018)
DRAMA
Trapped in a metaphysical plane, an ambitious young man gets a vantage
view of his life as he struggles to make sense of his predicament.
Yemi Blaq, Mofe Duncan, Deyemi Okanlawon. NR, 78 mins, Director:
Remi Ibinola
What the Heart Sees (2018) ROMANCE
A love story set in the 1970s in which a spinster who, against the social
norm, falls in love with a charming, much younger man.
Francis Duru, Eucharia Anunobi, Joshua Richard. NR, 119 mins, Director:
Chris Eneaji Eneng
A Lot Like Love
A Lot Like Love (2018) ROMANCE
A great career, wealth, beauty and brains; Jasmine seems to have it all. But
she’s missing one thing - a man!
Annie Macaulay-Idibia, Lilian Esoro. NR, 95 mins, Director: Tissy Nnachi
Breaking Rules (2018) DRAMA
Martins and Vivian fall captive to their emotions, laying down their guards
as they begin a relationship. This leads to a series of events that will
define them forever.
Seun Akindele, Yvonne Jegede Fawole, Olakunle Fawole. PG-13, 102
mins. Director: Biodun Stephen.
Ehi’s Bitters (2018) DRAMA
It is said that time heals all wounds, but the same cannot be said for
Ehisoje. Can she find her way through all the chaos?
Deyemi Okanlawon, Joshua Richard, Enado Odigie. PG-13, 115 mins.
Director: Biodun Stephen.
Baby Palaver (2018) DRAMA
For a girl who had shut out love for a long time, one and a half men is too
much to let in all at once.
Desmond Elliot, Uche Jombo Rodriguez, Selassie Ibrahim. PG-13, 85
mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.
The Village (2018) DRAMA
An old family rivalry over a land dispute becomes a hindrance between
John and Olanna. But an act of love might put an end to the dispute.
Cassandra Odita, Emma Ayalogu, Eddie Watson. PG-13, 137 mins.
Director: Akin-Tijani Balogun.

ENTERTAINMENT / 69
Adventure
Batman (1989)
Batman meets his most dangerous foe, the Joker, who is wreaking havoc
throughout Gotham City and posing a threat of worldwide destruction.
Michael Keaton, Jack Nicholson. PG-13, 126 mins, Director: Tim Burton
Godzilla (2014)
The world is beset by the appearance of monstrous creatures, but one of
them may be the only one who can save humanity.
Aaron Taylor-Johnson. PG-13, 115 mins, Director: Gareth Edwards
Fantastic Beasts And Where To Find Them (2016)
The adventures of Newt Scamander in New York’s secret community of
witches and wizards 70 years before Harry Potter reads his book.
Eddie Redmayne. PG-13, 133 mins, Director: David Yates
Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets (2002)
Harry ignores warnings not to return to Hogwarts, only to find the school
plagued by mysterious attacks and a strange voice haunting him.
Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint. PG, 87 mins, Director: Chris Columbus
Charlie And The Chocolate Factory (2005)
A young boy wins a tour through the most magnificent chocolate factory in
the world, led by the world’s most unusual candy maker.
Johnny Depp, Freddie Highmore. PG, 116 mins, Director: Tim Burton
The Lord Of The Rings: The Fellowship Of The Ring (2001)
A meek Hobbit from the Shire and eight companions set out on a journey to
destroy the powerful One Ring and save Middle-earth.
Elijah Wood, Ian McKellan. PG-13, 178 mins, Director: Peter Jackson

70 / ENTERTAINMENT
TV
Ghosted
Africa’s Hunters
Fight Stars World News, Brilliant Ideas Riverdale
Small Screen
Programmes
& Series
We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.
Comedy
Ghosted, Season 1, Episodes 1 & 2 Leroy and Max are recruited by the
Bureau Underground, a top-secret government agency, to find a missing agent.
Young Sheldon, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4 When George Sr is rushed to the
hospital, Meemaw comes to babysit.
Powerless, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4 When Van’s incompetence costs the
team a client, Emily hopes to make a deal with the people of Atlantis. Meanwhile
Van’s father sets him on a path of redemption.
Last Man Standing, Season 6, Episodes 1 & 2 Kyle leaves the loading dock
door open, allowing a bear to wander into Outdoor Man.
Sports
Up Close With, Season 1, Episode 46 Upbeat, glamorous
documentary series exploring the luxurious lifestyle of the world’s
biggest sports stars.
Pure Outdoor, Season 1, Episode 1 A look at the eco-sports that some
people embrace in their leisure time.
Fight Stars, Season 1, Episode 2 The best combat-sport stars in the ring,
including boxer Anthony Joshua and UFC’s Ronda Rousey.
Discovery
My First Trip: New York City Lonely Planet Destination Editor MaSovaida
Morgan talks through her first-ever trip to New York City as a 4th-grade
student.
Welcome To Lake Geneva & Vaud Lonely Planet’s guide to Lake Geneva
and Vaud.
Welcome To Rome Lonely Planet’s guide to Rome.
Africa’s Hunters, Season 2, Episode 1 In the heart of Zambia’s Luangwa
Valley lies one of the best leopard territories going. It's also the domain of an
audacious young female called Olimba.
News
The Immortals, Season 1, Episode 6 The careers of sport’s greatest icons
are celebrated in this stunning 52-part series.
World News, Brilliant Ideas A winner of the Hugo Boss Prize for contemporary
art, Rirkrit Tiravanija is seen as one of the world’s most influential artists.
The David Rubenstein Show: Peer To Peer Conversations Steve Ballmer,
former CEO of Microsoft, talks about meeting Bill Gates at Harvard, his early
years at Microsoft and subsequent rise to CEO in 2000.
Drama
Bones, Season 12, Episodes 1 & 9 Brennan has been kidnapped by her old
assistant Zack, so Booth and the rest of the team have to find her.
Major Crimes, Season 6, Episodes 1 & 2 Three 15-year-old boys vanish
during a school field trip causing Asstistant Chief Mason to consider the
case a critical missing for Major Crimes.
Riverdale, Season 2, Episodes 3 & 4 Archie takes matters into his own
hands and an unexpected turn of events leads the town to realise their
darkest chapter may be far from over.
The Flash, Season 3, Episodes 4 & 5 Mirror Master joins his old partner,
Top, and looks to even the score with Snart.

ENTERTAINMENT / 71
Music Channel explained: The Channel number for
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end
of each description. It’s determined by the aircraft type,
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.
Please check the safety card in front of you.
Audio
Spotlight on
Tina
Turner
This “Queen of Rock ‘n’ Roll” has
sold more than 200 million records
worldwide.
Turner began her career in 1958 with
Ike Turner’s Kings of Rhythm and
went on to have a glittering career as a
solo artist. In 1984, her song, What’s
Love Got to Do with It – from the hugely
successful album, Private Dancer – won
three Grammys. Turner has also starred
in several films, including Mad Max
Beyond Thunderdome.
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s biggest
hits. B737 CH. 3
African Classics
The best tunes from classic African artists, from
Davido to DJ Maphorisa. B737 CH. 4
Jazz
With stunning tracks from Van Morrison to Billie
Holiday, this highly diverse collection is a mustlisten
for the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7
Pop
The biggest pop hits of the moment, with catchy
favourites from Noah Cyrus and many more.
B737 CH. 8
Dancehall/Reggae
Enjoy a fusion of dancehall and reggae sounds,
featuring a range of diverse artists such as Ziggy
Marley and Prince Buster. B737 CH. 6
Getty Images
Classical
Sit back and relax with the awe-inspiring
compositions of Martin Stadtfeld and Lang Lang
in this classical collection. B737 CH. 5
Easy Listening
Unwind and take it easy with laid-back sounds
from Frank Sinatra, Céline Dion and many more.
B737 CH. 10
Classic Rock
Rock out to classics from David Bowie, The
Kinks, Bruce Springsteen and many more. B787
“I believe that a lot of how you
look has to do with how you feel
about yourself and your life”
– Tina Turner –
Woman & Home magazine, 2016

72 / ENTERTAINMENT
Kids
Animation
THE LEGO MOVIE 2:
The Second
Part
The Lego Movie 2: The Second
Part is the fourth movie in the
LEGO Movie franchise and sequel
to global box-office phenomenon
The Lego Movie.
Chris Pratt and Elizabeth Banks reprise
their roles from the previous film and are
joined by new cast members including
Stephanie Beatriz and Maya Rudolph.
This computer-animated adventure
follows our heroes as they embark on a
quest to save their town.
Film and TV
The Ones to Watch
These are the most popular films from our selection.
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids’ films.
X-Men: Evolution
Boom Boom flirts with Nightcrawler,
and then gets a visit from her criminal
father who wants her to commit
a crime for him.
Season 2, Episode 2
New Looney Tunes
Sir Littlechin the Knight is on a
quest to capture a dragon, but not if
Bugs has anything to do with it.
Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4
Lippy The Lion &
Hardy Har Har
The cartoon adventures of a lion
(Lippy) and his hyena friend (Hardy
Har Har).
Season 1, Episodes 9, 10 & 11
Tinga Tinga Tales
Hen borrows Eagle’s needle to show
Peacock she can be more than plain
brown.
Season 1, Episodes 5 & 6

SAFARI NJEMA / 75
Mombasa is featured in the 2010
film, Inception.
✈ To book direct flights to New York,
go to kenya-airways.com.
Safari Njema
Three reasons to visit
Mombasa in
November
Mombasa is often described as an exotic paradise
in the African tropics. During the short
rainy season, this Kenyan coastal city is swathed
in green against the bluest skies. Here are three
reasons to explore Mombasa this month.
Alamy

Kenya Airways
launched a carbonoffset
programme in
2011. It was the first
African airline to do so.
News
SAFARI NJEMA / 77
✈ Kenya Airways is aligned to the
National Wildlife Strategy 2030.
Top reasons to visit
Why Mombasa?
Free as a bird
1 As millions of birds arrive here for winter while most of the Northern
Hemisphere shivers, birdwatchers couldn’t hope for a better time to
visit. The bulk of migratory birds – of which almost half are water birds –
choose to land in the Rift Valley and at the beautiful Kenyan coast. The
best place to see birds is the Shimba Hills National Reserve.
Eternal sunshine
2 Bury your toes in soft, white sand while watching soothing waves
lap the shoreline. Mombasa has several beautiful beaches, such as
Diani, Nyali and Bamburi, and you’ll be glad to know that sunshine
hours vary only a little throughout the year; just like the average
temperature, which usually fluctuates around 30ºC. You’ll just have to
dodge the short showers, which often occur at noon or during the late
evening.
Dive in
3 One of the joys of Mombasa – where the aquamarine Indian Ocean
stretches as far as the eye can see – are the endless marine activities
that take place every day, such as kayaking, swimming, scuba diving
and snorkelling. You can also discover mangroves, seagrass beds, coral
reefs and beautiful marine life – such as seahorses – at Mombasa
Marine National Park and Reserve. If you’re lucky, you might also spot
humpback whales: they migrate through the area from the end of June
until December.
Alamy
Improvements
Kenya Airways Enhances Product Offerings
As the Pride of Africa, Kenya Airways (KQ) continuously
seeks to provide its customers with the best service. KQ is now
embarking on a series of changes geared towards ensuring a
seamless and comfortable travel experience. The changes
include increasing the seat offering by operating its state-of-the
art Dreamliner to Mombasa on selected days during the festive
season – to allow travellers to enjoy the December holidays at
this coastal city – and the introduction of daily flights to New
York from 15 December, 2019 to best accommodate more
travellers during the festive season.
“We care greatly about our customers and we’re committed to
providing them with a premium service,” says Chief Commercial
Officer KQ Ursula Silling. “We have also introduced exciting
products to enhance the economy cabin experience and enable
greater value and choice for all our passengers.”
KQ passengers can look forward to experiencing Economy
Comfort, where they can get extra space for more comfort in
economy class on long haul flights to New York, London,
Amsterdam, Paris, Geneva, Rome, Bangkok and Guangzhou.
KQ has also introduced the Super Economy service, which
allows guests to book a neighbour-free seat during their shortand
medium-haul flights.
“Kenya Airways has
been a major driver in
Kenya’s economic and
social development”
− Sebastian Mikosz −

78 / SAFARI NJEMA
Want to know the carbon
emission of your flight?
Visit climatecare.org
and click on the
carbon calculator.
News
✈ Kenya Airways Pride Centre
is Africa’s premier aviation
training facility.
Codeshare expanded
Networks Grow
in Middle East
Shutterstock
Economic growth
The Key to Unlocking Kenya’s Economy
At its forum in Nairobi, the International Air Transport
Association (IATA) explained that Kenya’s
economy can expand significantly over the next 20
years if key investments in infrastructure and policy
reforms are made.
In 2017, as 4.8 million passengers made their way to Kenya,
aviation and tourism accounted for 4.6 percent of Kenya’s
GDP (US$ 3.2 billion) and supported 410,000 jobs. Over the
next 20 years, the Kenyan market could more than double in
size, resulting in an extra 11.3 million passenger journeys, a
US$ 11.3-billion boost to GDP (by 2037) and over 449,000
more jobs.
“Air transport has been a major driver in Kenya’s economy,
boosting tourism, attracting regional headquarters of multinational
companies and fostering trade, logistics and foreign
investment in the country,” said Regional Vice President Africa
and the Middle East – IATA Muhammad Ali Albakri. “With
4.8 million passengers arriving at Kenya’s airports every year
and the country’s established position as the leading cargo
hub for East Africa, there’s good reason to be proud of all
that aviation has achieved in the country.”
Group Managing Director & CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian
Mikosz said that Kenya Airways had been a major driver in
Kenya’s economic and social development, promoting commerce,
providing jobs and vital logistics to boost tourism and
trade. “The development of policies that support the growth
of aviation and reduce bureaucracy at the points of entry are
paying off,” added Mikosz. “Continuing this policy focus will
certainly unlock even greater development potential for Kenya
and the neighbouring countries.”
Kenya Airways and Oman Air, the national carrier of
the sultanate, have expanded their existing codeshare
cooperation, increasing the destinations available to
their guests.
The codeshare expansion brings seamless connectivity to
Oman Air guests travelling beyond Nairobi to Entebbe
(Uganda) and Johannesburg (South Africa). Similarly, Kenya
Airways guests can now extend their travel beyond Muscat
(Oman) to Karachi (Pakistan) and Lahore (Pakistan).
Oman Air and Kenya Airways commenced their codeshare
agreement covering services between Muscat and Nairobi in
August 2017.
“We’re pleased to enhance our cooperation with Oman Air,”
said Chief Commercial Officer Kenya Airways Ursula Silling.
“Through this partnership, Kenya Airways extends its
services to tourists, as well as to those who are visiting friends
and family, in Oman through the cultural links that Oman
shares with the coastal parts of East Africa, especially Kenya
and Tanzania. This cooperation also expands our footprint in
the Middle East through the Muscat gateway and is consistent
with Kenya Airways’ strategy to improve its network
efficiency, and grow through partners while focussing on the
high-yield corporate and leisure segments.”
Kenya Airways is currently working towards financial turnaround
with a focus on prudential financial management,
network expansion, as well as improving customer experience.
This partnership provides an additional opportunity for revenue
enhancement by providing more options for guests.

80 / SAFARI NJEMA
The Kenya Airways Pride
Centre also offers training
to staff of other
international airlines.
News
✈ Kenya Airways is working
with USAID to prevent the trafficking
of endangered species.
Sustainability design challenge
Old Uniforms to Get Second Chance
Every so often, airlines change their uniforms. This
usually means that their old uniforms are disposed
of, which is bad for the environment. Kenya
Airways, therefore, looked for a sustainable way to
dispose of their uniforms and found upcycling.
In a bid to tap into youth creativity – while coinciding with
International Youth Day – Kenya Airways engaged fashion
students from various private and public colleges in Nairobi,
and set them a challenge to design and produce fashion items
from old uniforms in order to produce new upcycled items
that may appeal to various target audiences.
To launch this challenge, Kenya Airways teamed up with a few
inspired partners and fashion colleges in Nairobi, including
Sandstorm; Couture Magazine; Connie Alouch Styling Management;
Hisi Fashion House; Mcensal School of Fashion;
Evelyne School of Fashion; Mefa Institute of Fashion and
University of Nairobi (School of Art and Design).
Within a month, students had come up with upcycled products
from the materials that Kenya Airways and partners provided
them with. “This challenge has demonstrated that upcycling has
high potential in aviation, and we are keen to explore how we can
increase our operations in a manner that’s good for business and
friendly to the environment,” said Head of Sustainability and
CSR at Kenya Airways Jacquie Muhati.
Sustainable development
Planting Trees
to Combat
Climate Change
Climate change is causing a huge negative impact
around the world and we must act fast to counter its
effects.
Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting partner,
recognises that trees play a vital role in addressing the impacts
of climate change. In a bid to boost reforestation efforts in
the Kasigau Corridor in the Tsavo region, Wildlife Works is
encouraging the planting of indigenous trees.
Wildlife Works regularly purchases tree seedlings from the
local community, which are then nourished at the greenhouse.
During the month of November, the seedlings are freely distributed
to schools, institutions and community groups for
planting. (Since 2018, Wildlife Works has distributed over
29,640 tree seedlings.) After distribution, the greenhouse team
will then monitor the seedlings to ensure they are taken care
of, and to determine their survival rate.
The UN Sustainable Development Goal 13 calls for all to take
urgent action to combat climate change and its effects. Wildlife
Works will continue planting trees and protecting existing
forest to reduce the damage caused by climate change.
~ Offset your carbon: With your Kenya Airways’ flight, you can help
to protect the environment. Simply tick a box when booking to offset
carbon emissions per journey. Funds go to initiatives in conjunction with
Wildlife Works. Visit wildlifeworks.com to find out more.

How many Miles did you
earn while flying to your
current destination? Find out
online with the Flying Blue
Miles Calculator.
Flying Blue
SAFARI NJEMA / 81
✈ There are new discounted reward
tickets, or Promo Awards, available
every month, saving you up
to 50 percent on Reward Miles.
Membership levels
Redeem
Your
Miles!
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn
Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways, Air France,
KLM, Joon, HOP!, Transavia, Aircalin, TAROM, SkyTeam
members, or other airline partners. You can redeem your Miles
to fly with Kenya Airways or upgrade your seats to Business
Class.
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue, and with each qualifying
flight you take, you gain XP (Experience Points). When you first enrol,
you will be awarded Explorer status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and
ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with Kenya Airways or one of
our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in you
earning more Miles and enjoying more benefits.
Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations operated by Kenya
Airways or our partner airlines. Go for an upgrade of your seat or pay
for your hotel stay or car rental with Miles. Your accumulated Miles are
valid for life as long as you take an eligible flight at least once every two
years. The total number of Miles credited to your account on Kenya Airways-marketed
flights is based on distance, the booking class earning
percentage, and the Elite bonus earning percentage, if applicable.
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.
1
Exchange
Reward Miles can be redeemed for a flight to
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to
Business Class.
2
Check
Your choice of destination determines the
number of Miles required for your Reward ticket.
Log on to flyingblue.com to check if you have
sufficient Miles for your choice. It is advisable
to have flexible date options in case your initial
choice is not available.
3
Redeem
Once you have made your choice, you can
redeem your Reward Miles by two methods:
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centre in Nairobi
on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747
or +254 711 024747.
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to Loyalty Program,
Flying Blue, Earn and Spend.
For further information, you can always contact us at
kenya-airways.custhelp.com.
4
Tax
Reward Miles do not cover tax charges. These
will need to be paid for separately and this can be
done so via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment
at any Kenya Airways office.
5
Easy Does It
Five steps to make
the most of your Miles.
Ticket
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket
will be sent to you by email.
~ Reward tickets are subject to seat availability. The
number of Miles required varies depending on available
booking class.
~ Miles can be used for flights, baggage and
upgrades to Business Class when you have already
purchased an Economy Class Kenya Airways ticket on
Y,B,M,U,K,H,L,Q,T,R,N, E & V classes for all routes. All
upgrades are subject to seat availability in Business Class.

SkyTeam operates more than
17,000 departures a day to 1,150+
destinations in 175+ countries, and
offers SkyTeam members 750+
lounges in airports worldwide.
SkyTeam
SAFARI NJEMA / 83
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a
major airline alliance that consists of 19
carriers from 5 continents.
SkyTeam city insider
The Trip of A Lifetime
The world is an exciting, fascinating place. If you’ve always wanted
to travel around the world on one incredible trip, but were daunted by
the logistics, SkyTeam is here to help.
Now that we have an alliance of 19
airlines with collective routes to 1,150+
destinations, it’s never been easier to
organise a multi-destination trip to
practically any corner of the globe, all
within the SkyTeam family.
The Round the World (RTW) planner –
available on skyteam.com – can help
you put together your ultimate vacation
in just a few clicks. And if you’re quick,
you can get this once-in-a-lifetime trip
at a very special price. Book a RTW
route between 30 November and 31
December for travel between 7 December
2019 and 7 March 2020, and you’ll
get a 15 percent discount on business
and economy fares.There are a few rules:
you must start and end your journey
in the same country, your route must
include a transatlantic and transpacific
flight, and you can enjoy a maximum of
15 stopovers.
Imagine watching New Year fireworks
over a spectacular city skyline, or
spending the first weeks of 2020 on a
tropical beach. With SkyTeam, the
world is your oyster.
Ready for your next adventure? Head
to SkyTeam’s website, speak to a travel
agent or contact one of our member
airlines to book your dream RTW trip
today.
The SkyTeam global alliance collectively
welcomes customers on more than
17,000 daily flights to 1,150+ destinations
in 175+ countries.
For the full terms and conditions, and
complete fare conditions, visit skyteam.
com/en/round-the-world-planner.
~ Find out more about news, services and
upcoming events at skyteam.com
or find us on Instagram: @skyteamalliance.

84 / SAFARI NJEMA
Global Network
London
GREAT-BRITAIN
THE NETHERLANDS
Amsterdam
Paris
FRANCE
Geneva
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
Rome
UNITED
STATES
New York
UNITED
ARAB
EMIRATES
Dubai
SENEGAL
Dakar
Bamako
Freetown
SIERRA LEONE
Monrovia
LIBERIA
MALI
COTE
D'IVOIRE
GHANA
Abidjan
Accra
Lagos
NIGERIA
CENTRAL
CAMEROON
AFRICAN REPUBLIC
Douala
Yaoundé
Bangui
Brazzaville
Kinshasa
Luanda
SUDAN
Khartoum
SOUTH SUDAN
Juba
Addis
Ababa
MOZAMBIQUE
ETHIOPIA
Djibouti
DJIBOUTI
UGANDA
KENYA
Entebbe/Kampala
Kisumu
Kigali
NAIROBI
RWANDA
DEMOCRATIC
Malindi
REPUBLIC OF
Bujumbura
Kilimanjaro
Mombasa
THE CONGO
BURUNDI
TANZANIA
Dar es Salaam
SOMALIA
Mogadishu
Moroni/COMOROS
ANGOLA
Lubumbashi
MALAWI
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE
Ndola Lilongwe
ZAMBIA
Lusaka
Blantyre
Nampula
Livingstone
Victoria
Harare
Falls
ZIMBABWE
Antananarivo
MADAGASCAR
Mahé
SEYCHELLES
MAURITIUS
Johannesburg
Maputo
Cape Town
SOUTH
AFRICA
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism

SAFARI NJEMA / 85
Kenya Airways Fleet
Boeing 787 Dreamliner
Aircraft 9; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m
Mumbai
INDIA
Bangkok
THAILAND
CHINA
Guangzhou
Boeing 737-800
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;
Interior cabin width 3.53m
Boeing 737-700
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m
Embraer 190
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m

86 / SAFARI NJEMA
The Nairobi National Park
stopover package allows guests
to take a safari break while on
business, leisure or connecting
to your next flight.
Welcome to Kenya
Practical tips
What & How
✈ Passengers travelling in
a group of at least ten
(economy cabin) or five
(business cabin), can
request for a group fare.
Getty Images
Getting around
On Arrival
TO THE CITY Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute
drive away from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a
20-minute drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.
VISA Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry
visas are available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or
Embassy prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival
at the airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in
local currency. You will also require a passport that is valid for three
months from the moment of entry.
DOMESTIC TRANSFERS AT JKIA If transferring to domestic, follow the
signs to Immigration, clear with Immigration, proceed to collect your
bags and follow exit signs to the outside of the airport and Proceed to
Terminal 1D (Domestic Terminal). From Terminal 1A to Terminal 1D.
(Follow directions or ask Kenya Airways Uniform staff once you land).
TERMINAL 1B
TERMINAL 1A
Kenya Airways
International
arrival Terminal
Airport Shuttle
Picking Point
CENTRAL SQUARE
PARKING SILO
P CLOSED
P 8B
P CLOSED
TERMINAL 1C
TERMINAL 1D
Kenya Airways Domestic
Transfers Terminal
TERMINAL 1E
P 9 P 10 P 11
TERMINAL 2
Health
Emergency services
Dial 999. Note that
ambulance services are
mostly private. Services
include: St Johns
Ambulance +254 72 161
1555 or Kenya Red
Cross Ambulance
+254 71 771 4938.
Hospitals
Nairobi and Mombasa
have good hospitals.
Medical expenses
Make sure you have
adequate travel health
insurance and accessible
funds to cover the cost of
any medical treatment.
Consultations and
treatments will have to
be paid for at the time,
and the costs claimed
back later.
General
Voltage
240 volts AC, using
three-square-pin,
13-amp-type plugs.
Security
It is advisable not to walk
alone in isolated areas
in towns or on beaches,
particularly after dark.
Tipping
Tips are appreciated. Most
hotels/restaurants add a
10 percent service charge.
Water
It is wise to drink or use
only boiled or bottled water,
and to avoid ice in drinks.
Self-drive
Traffic adheres to the lefthand
side of the road, and
most cars are right-hand
drive. A current driving
licence with photograph is
accepted for up to a threemonth
stay.
Public transport
Nairobi is the only city with
an effective municipal bus
service. Local (private)
matatus are the main
means of getting around.
Taxi service Uber operates
in Nairobi and Mombasa.
Photography
Taking photographs of
official buildings, including
embassies, can lead to
detention. Photography is
also prohibited at airports.
Embassies & consulates
All embassies are
located in Nairobi.
ID
You must carry a valid form
of ID with you at all times.
Post office
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays; and 9
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.
Telephone/internet
Phone cards may be
bought from post offices
or international call
offices. Emails can be sent
from most hotels.
Money matters
Currency
Kenyan shilling (KES)
Currency regulations
There are no restrictions on
the movement of currency
into or out of Kenya for
currency transactions.
Banking
Banks are generally open
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays;
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon
Saturdays. Banks in
coastal towns open
and close half an hour
earlier. Most ATMs accept
international VISA cards.
Credit cards
Visa and MasterCard are
widely accepted.
Hotel bill payment
Pay in Kenyan shillings or
convertible currency.
Most hotels also accept
credit cards.
Gulu

SAFARI NJEMA / 87
SOUTH-
SUD A N
E T HIOPIA
Lokichokio
Muruasigar
2149 m
Songot 1755 m
Namoratunga
Stones
Central
Island
National
Park
Lodwar
LAKE
TURKANA
Sibiloi
National
Park
CHALBI DESERT
Moyale
Malka Mari
National
Reserve
LAKE
VICTORIA
UGA N D A
Nasolot
National
Reserve
Masai Mara
National Reserve
TA NZANIA
South
Turkana
National
Reserve
South
Island
National
Park
RIFT VALLEY
Nairobi
National
Park
LAKE
MAGADI
Shompole
Conservancy
Loiyangalani
Mt Kulal 2285 m
Kajiado
West
Chyulu Game
Conservation
Area
Amboseli
National Park
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m
Marsabit
National
Reserve
Losai
National
Reserve
Marsabit
Marsabit
National
Park
Maralal
Saiwa
National Matthew’s Peak
Swamp
Sanctuary 2375 m
Mt Elgon
National
National Park
Kaisungua
Maralal
Reserve
Kitale
3167 m
Samburu
National
Mt Elgon
Kerio Valley
Reserve
Shaba National
4322 m
National Reserve
Reserve
ELDORET
Archer’s Post
LAKE BARING O
Kakamega
Buffalo Springs
Forest Reserve
Lake Bogoria Isiolo
National
Meru
Reserve
Kakamega
National Reserve
National
Park
Ndere Island
Nanyuki
National Park
KISUMU
Meru
Mt Londiani
Rusinga Island
Kericho
3000 m
North
Nakuru
Mt Kenya
Kitu
Lake Nakuru
5199 m
National
Mfangango
National
Park
Nyerri Embu
Reserve
Island
Kisii
Muranga’a Mwea
Ruma
Hell’s Gate
National
National
National Park
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve
Park
RIFT VALLEY
Longonot National Park
Thika
Migori
Narok
NAIROBI
Oi Donyo National Park
Chantal van Wessel
OFFICES & AGENTS
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570
Baggage Services Tel +254 0741 33 3954
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com
Tsavo West
National
Park
K ENYA
Tsavo
East
National
Park
Voi
Kora
National
Park
Rahole
National
Reserve
Mwaluganje
Elephant
Sanctuary
Shimba Hills
National
Reserve
Garissa
MOMBASA
Wajir
Tana River
Primate National
Reserve
Arabuko
Malindi Marine
Sokoke
National Park
National
Park
MALINDI
Watamu Marine
National Park
Diani
Kisite Marine National Park
Kisite Marine National Park
Boni
National
Arawale Reserve
National
Reserve
Dodori
National
Reserve
SOMALIA
INDIAN
OCEAN
100 km

SAFARI NJEMA / 89
Cargo
Courier material
Need for Speed
Text: Emma van Egmond Image: Shutterstock
Left your precious jewellery
behind at the hotel? Need a
contract signed in New York?
Kenya Airways Cargo can make
it happen safely and quickly.
There are only two ways to ensure that
your small and VIP (Very Important
Packages) get delivered on time: take
it yourself or, if that’s not an option,
send it through KQ Express Courier.
Kenya Airways provides a tailor-made
airfreight service for the rapid,
airport-to-airport transportation
of time-definite courier material by
registered courier firms. A dedicated
courier-handling team at the hub helps
to simplify customs clearance and
ensures shipment delivery within an
hour of a flight’s arrival.
“Backed by a 24-hour running team
and an Express Center, we can guarantee
a short acceptance time before flight
departure: one hour for domestic
packages and two hours for regional and
international packages,” says Manager
Express Cargo and E-Commerce at
Kenya Airways Daniel Salaton.
Your packages can be sent to all
Kenya Airways destinations. Shipment
size is not limited, and the maximum
weight per item is 70 kg; although
exceptions are permitted to certain
destinations with prior approval.
Furthermore, customer service and
support are available 24/7, including
comprehensive tracking information
from the origin to the final destination.

90 / SAFARI NJEMA
KQ won the Best
Business Class in
Africa for five years
in a row from World
Travel Awards.
Get Comfortable
✈ KQ received an International
Safety Award in 2016 and 2017
from the British Safety Council.
What you need to know
Flight Mode
Safety
Please watch the safety demonstration before
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets
and mobile phones may not be used during
take-off and landing.
Hand luggage
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew
will remove hand luggage from passengers
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light
meal and get some gentle exercise
before your flight.
Travel
On The Move
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.
3 Keep your circulation going by standing
up and walking in the aisle when
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,
shoulders and neck.
4 Low cabin humidity on longer
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply
“To get lost is to
learn the way”
– African proverb –
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,
drink plenty of water and moderate
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.
5 When travelling across time zones
your body’s sleep rhythms can become
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself
some time to adjust to new night and
day cycles when you arrive.
6 On arrival spend as much time as
possible outside. Sunlight helps your
body to adjust to a new time zone.
Seat adjustments
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and
landing.
Infants
Baby-changing tables can be found in
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.
Inflight service
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals
are available when pre-ordered. There is a
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,
spirits and soft drinks.
Entertainment
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of
movies and music is available on our long- and
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE
guide in Msafiri.
Take-off
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear
a reduction in the engine sound, while the
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure
during take-off and landing, some passengers
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.
Landing
After touchdown you may hear an increase in
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied
to assist braking. Remain seated until the
engines are off and the doors are open.