Caribbean Beat — September/October 2019 (#159)

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Cassava five ways
To most of us, cassava is simply a tasty ground provision. But in Guyana, it is
a treasure of an indigenous culinary tradition, a key staple of First Peoples for
thousands of years. Unsurprisingly, considering that long history, Guyanese have
created numerous ways to prepare the starch. As Guyana celebrates Indigenous
Heritage Month in September, here are a few dishes and by-products of cassava
to get you acquainted.
Cassareep
This condiment is used in numerous
stews and sauces — including the
national dish, pepperpot (see below).
To make cassareep, peel the cassava
and grate it to a pulp. Wring the juices
from the pulp — traditionally, this
was done with a matapee, a woven
tubular sieve. Boil the juice, constantly
skimming the scum from the surface,
until the liquid is thick, sticky, and dark
brown like molasses.
Kasiri/parikari
Here’s another way to use cassava
juice: ferment it into a sweet heady
beer, known by various names among
different indigenous peoples.
Cassava bread
This fried bread cooked with a dash of
oil is one of the best ways to introduce
gluten-free fare to the healthconscious.
The Guyanese method is to
cook it in a cake tray above a frying pan.
Metemgee
This coconut-milk-based soup
includes cassava, sweet potatoes,
plantains, and salted meat — delicious
garnished with a fried banga mary fish.
Pepperpot
Guyana’s national dish is a zesty mix
of stewed meat, cassareep, peppers,
and spices. Traditionally, the pot is
periodically replenished with fresh
meat and cassareep, which has
preservative qualities. There’s a local
rumour that the Georgetown Club
has had a pepperpot bubbling for over
seventy-five years. Talk about a dish
with a history . . .
SAI
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