Caribbean Beat — September/October 2019 (#159)

need to know
Great Outdoors
Volcano hopping
Spectacular waterfalls, verdant rainforests, beautiful birds,
and an active four-thousand-foot volcano make St Vincent
a paradise for lovers of nature and adventure. La Soufrière,
one of the most studied volcanoes in the world, last erupted
forty years ago, between April and October 1979. And while
scientists keep a close eye on its status, the steep slopes
leading up to the crater offer a thrilling hike with the payoff
of incredible views. Vincentian photographer, hotelier, and
adventure-seeker Stephan Hornsey sees his homeland as
a playground and has an innate calling to explore — which
includes several memorable ascents of La Soufrière, and one
very stormy night
Are you a daredevil at heart?
I wouldn’t define myself as intentionally reckless, but
perhaps an accidental daredevil, considering some of
the situations I find myself in. If I decide to do something
potentially dangerous, I always plan ahead incessantly.
How often do you go hiking?
Not terribly often, but when I do, it tends to be something
personally challenging, and a new experience.
When did you first hike La Soufrière?
One of my earliest memories as a kid was my father holding
my arm at the edge of the volcano. He was making sure the
winds didn’t take me into the steep crater as I peeped over.
These days, the reason is based on a sense of adventure —
it’s a volcano, and very cool.
How difficult is the trail?
It’s a well-trodden trail, as the volcano is a hiking highway for
many locals. Countless visitors make the trek as a milestone
in their vacation. Recently I’ve taken the windward route,
which is closer to my home. I’m most comfortable with this
route and would recommend it for both time and ease.
If I’m gunning it, then it may take an hour or less from the
“base camp.” For most that I have observed or hiked with, it
may take an hour and a half or two.
How fit do you need to be?
I’ve seen individuals who considered themselves unfit
complete the entire trek from bottom to top and back. It’s
totally up to you, as long as you can get back.
Can you describe the views?
The trail is a snaking path through a tropical rainforest, filled
with bamboo, ferns, and other plants. As you ascend further,
you are teased with little breaks in the foliage allowing you to
see how far you have come. It’s truly motivating. After a short
time, you emerge onto the face of the volcano. I am truly in
awe of the landscape. It’s hard to imagine without seeing it.
As you ascend, there is one point where you break out
of the canopy of trees and the sounds of the rainforest
disappear in sudden silence. This is when you realise you are
on a volcano, as you turn around to see the coastline far in
the distance.
What was your biggest adventure on La
Soufrière?
There was a thunderstorm while we were camping inside the
crater last year. We had a sub-optimal-size tent to withstand
heavy winds and the temperature. The tent was just under
six feet, which allowed it to catch the winds constantly
tugging on our anchors. At one point it started to dip down
to where it touched our chests flat on the floor of the tent.
The space made most of our heat escape quickly, which
became especially noticeable between 2 and 6 am, as the
temperatures dropped to violently shivering conditions.
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