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Dive Pacific Iss 171 Oct- Nov 2019

New Zealand's dive magazine featuring in this issue: Shooting big sharks, up close; Spearfishing at night!; Remembering a great Kiwi dive pioneer, Wade Doak; Forgotten Vanuatu wreck's claim to fame; The invasive Lionfish - in depth, plus all our expert columnists

New Zealand's dive magazine featuring in this issue: Shooting big sharks, up close; Spearfishing at night!; Remembering a great Kiwi dive pioneer, Wade Doak; Forgotten Vanuatu wreck's claim to fame; The invasive Lionfish - in depth, plus all our expert columnists

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define sensitivity: the higher<br />

the number, the higher the<br />

sensitivity. The number<br />

always follows the ISO abbreviation.<br />

Consecutive sensitivity<br />

values<br />

Every time when the sensitivity<br />

value doubles, the<br />

sensor requires two times<br />

less light to correctly expose<br />

an image. For example,<br />

ISO400 would require two<br />

times less light than ISO 200<br />

and four times less light than<br />

ISO100.<br />

Whole sensitivity values are<br />

100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200,<br />

etc. There are also fractional<br />

values between them at 1/3<br />

and 2/3 steps. In the past,<br />

during the camera film era, a<br />

correct choice of film determined<br />

whether your photo<br />

shoot would be a success or<br />

a failure. Now, the choice<br />

of the sensor sensitivity is a<br />

matter of a few seconds: all<br />

you need to do is press the<br />

proper buttons and voila!<br />

The viewfinder<br />

A viewfinder allows a photographer<br />

to see a future image,<br />

compose it, and assess the focus.<br />

For an underwater photographer it<br />

is of a paramount importance! You<br />

need to be able to see well through<br />

the viewfinder.<br />

Modern cameras use two types of<br />

viewfinders: liquid crystal display<br />

(LCD) in compact cameras and<br />

mirrorless camera, and mirror<br />

reflex optical viewfinders on DSLR<br />

cameras. The mirrorless cameras<br />

have an electronic analogue of the<br />

optical specular viewfinder which<br />

are very similar to the viewfinder<br />

of an ordinary DSLR, and even<br />

better.<br />

At first glance the large LCD screen<br />

of a compact camera is more<br />

convenient than a mirror reflex<br />

viewfinder. For example you see<br />

an interesting subject under a<br />

coral (where you don’t fit) but can<br />

easily place your camera there.<br />

You look at the screen at arm’s<br />

length, frame the image and shoot!<br />

However…<br />

The mirror reflex optical<br />

Shag Rock, Goat Island Marine Reserve, NZ<br />

Olympus Tg-4 on 25 mm with wide lens<br />

PTWC-01 (f2,8;1/200; ISO100)<br />

Olympus PT-056 housing<br />

Nauticam with mirrorless Olympus.<br />

viewfinder more than makes up for<br />

any drawbacks. With it:<br />

1) Even in the brightest conditions<br />

you can see a clear picture of the<br />

image. It gives you the possibility<br />

to easily frame your image and<br />

assess its sharpness.<br />

2) There is no shutter lag. As soon<br />

as the subject is framed and in<br />

focus, the shutter opens up instantaneously.<br />

3) It doesn’t matter whether you<br />

are short sighted or farsighted: all<br />

modern reflex cameras have a +/-<br />

diopter adjustment option. You can<br />

see everything clearly and sharp.<br />

4) An electronic “mirror”<br />

viewfinder mirrorless (also called<br />

optical), allows you to see right in<br />

the shot.<br />

Special adapters can be used to<br />

install a third-party 45-angled<br />

viewfinder on almost all housing<br />

models. For example, I was able to<br />

install an Inon viewfinder on my<br />

Ikelite housings and am now using<br />

a similar viewfinder by Nauticam<br />

with mirrorless Olympus.<br />

But to use all the advantages<br />

of a mirror (optical)<br />

viewfinder you need to learn<br />

how to use it well. So:<br />

1) Use low-volume masks!<br />

A one-window mask would<br />

not allow you to bring your<br />

eye close enough to the<br />

viewfinder to be able to see<br />

the whole field of the frame.<br />

2) Press the housing<br />

viewfinder to the mask<br />

window. Don’t be afraid! This<br />

is the only way you can see<br />

the whole frame.<br />

3) Learn to look through the<br />

viewfinder properly. Because<br />

you are looking through it<br />

with one eye, the first thing<br />

you see is the central part of<br />

the frame. If you don’t take<br />

your time, you could end up<br />

with things in your image not<br />

supposed to be there. Before<br />

pressing the shutter, look<br />

around the whole frame. Pay<br />

special attention along its<br />

perimeter. So, first the centre,<br />

then the edges, then press the<br />

shutter button!<br />

4) To make it easier to focus,<br />

some housing manufacturers<br />

produce magnifying viewfinders.<br />

These can be used even by divers<br />

with full-face masks. There are<br />

straight and angled types of<br />

magnifying viewfinders, and when<br />

you use an angled viewfinder, you<br />

don’t look straight through it but<br />

rather at a 45-degree angle and<br />

slightly downwards. They are very<br />

helpful when you are shooting<br />

close to the seabed, from top down<br />

or taking above and below (splitlevel)<br />

shots. Some models can be<br />

adjusted to change the angle of<br />

the viewfinder. The only disadvantage<br />

of such viewfinders is their<br />

relatively high price.<br />

Next time: ISO, exposure and other<br />

underwater “spices”<br />

www.dive-pacific.com 67

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