Welsh Country - Issue88 - May - Jun 19

We make our way through
the gift shop and into the
body of the Cathedral. I
must confess that it always
seems to me more striking
to come into a space such
as this from the smaller
confines of cloister or shop.
I am always impressed by
the way the space opens
up, how the light suddenly
brightens the eye and the
architecture makes an
immediate impact. Here
it is the Norman columns
striding from the west
becoming increasingly more
decorated as they approach
the central crossing.
The two transepts provide
a wonderful contrast of
styles. In the north high
pointed arches rise above
the wonderfully restored
and colourful tomb of
Thomas Cantilupe whilst in
the south solid Norman is
a cliff face of stone broken
by three tapestries by John
Piper. This juxtaposition
of old and relatively recent
is carried through most
successfully in the Audley
Chapel.
Up in the Lady Chapel
behind the High Altar a
little chantry chapel offers
the greatest surprise of our
visit. Bearing the traces
of rich decoration on the
outside we enter a short
narrow passage into the low
vaulted space and then the
place erupts with colour.
Four windows by Thomas
Denny celebrating the life
of Herefordshire priest and
poet Thomas Treherne
radiate colour and are full of
details that gradually emerge
from the background. This
really is a remarkable space
and we dwell for some
time in appreciation before
making our way to lunch.
“...he says that it was only because
he was able to get some fine plump fruit
that the dish was on the Special’s Board.
Their well thought out and executed dishes
are excellent value.
”
In the words of the Publican
The substantial terra
cotta stone façade
of the ‘Felinfach
Griffin’ appeared through
the mist as we pulled off
the main road. Plastic signs
of excellence and inclusion
in a myriad of guides
adorned the window as
we approached the door.
A crackling fire at waist
height split the formal
from us heartier mortals
in the bar area. We sat in
a pleasant alcove with our
drinks looking down across
the low leather settees with
colourful scatter cushions,
through the fire place into
a busy little dining area
beyond. Cheerful staff
bought us menus and a
wooden board with slices
of warm soda bread and
butter. They took our
indecisive order; such a
choice, and brought more
goodies; tiny light cheese
pastry morsels.
The décor is kind of quirky;
the Mediterranean blue
match boarding under the
dado rail goes well with
the soft gold painted walls
above. Unusual gifts in
display dressers vie with
tasteful prints and black
and white photographs all
under the canopy of the
original beamed ceilings.
We are brought to order
by the arrival of our first
course. I just knew he
would choose the house
cured salmon on another
board with pink slices of
fish, celeriac coleslaw and a
slice of sourdough. I threw
him with my brown shrimp
cocktail served in a tall glass
with Melba toast.
Now this is serious food,
like the Inn itself selfassured
and confident; it
gets better. The venison
sausage cassoulet is full of
flavour and not too much
even with the bruschetta;
the old codger’s corned beef
hash is a revelation with
a smooth patty of hash,
a perfectly shaped and
poached egg on spinach
with a large tear drop of
tomato sauce. I just had to
try some of that, the hash
crumbling into morsels of
fried potato and char grilled
parson & the publican
beef when he was looking
inadvertently out of the
window.
The menu is refreshingly
different. Puddings sounded
classic but we were beaten
so settled for coffee.
Two old codgers cogitating
the important things in
life, we linger and watch
the diners slowly dwindle
and the fire glow on its
embers. We don’t agree on
everything my old chum
and I but we do thank
the cheerful staff for a
memorable lunch as we
make our way to the door.
Outside the light is fading
and we hear the blackbirds
pinking and the crows
hurrying back to their roosts
through the mist. I hope he
invites me in for a cup of
tea and who knows a hot
buttered muffin in front of
another fire.
The Parson is the
Reverend Ian Charlesworth.
His co-writer and navigator
is watercolourist and former
innkeeper Richard Stockton.
May - Jun 2019 37