Handmade in India

PATTU WEAVING
Production Clusters
Jodhpur district:
Phalodi tehsil
Jaisalmer district:
Pokharan
Products
Bardi-chequered wrap
Pattu kashida-wrap
with brocading
Pidha-low wooden
seats
Macha-strung wooden
cot
Gandha-floor spread
Tang-camel belt
Bed covers
Cushion covers
Table runners
Dupatta-stole
Kurta-tunic
Salwaar-loose pantlike
garment
Bags
Tools
Bunai ki khaddi-pit
treadle loom
Naal-shuttle
Yarn winder
Charka-spinning
wheel
Hatta-beater
kangi-reedd
THE MEGHWAL COMMUNITY
weave local wool into narrow strips,or
patti,that are then stitched together to
form wide shawls known as pattu that
are worn by members of all
communities in the region.There is
however a sartorial code with regard to
the type of pattu wornthe
chequered pattu are worn by women while the highly
decorative pattu are used by young men and the plain
pattu by older men.The base cloth of the pattu is in either
plain or twill-weaves and the motifs are created through
the use of the extra weft is usually of a colour in contrast
to the base cloth and is inserted after every two picks,thus
producing an impression of finely embroidered fabric.The
pattu constitute an important element in local ritualsamong
the Meghwal,the pattu weaving community,pattu
form a part of the gifts given to the prospective groom`s
family when fixing a marial alliance;they are also gifted
to all the immediate relatives to the groom during the
marriage ceremony.In addition,close bonds between two
men are cementedd through the granting of the title
`brother` and the exchange of pattu.
Inset Detail of the cotton table mat on the right.
1 A table mat
developed in
cotton using the
traditional
pattu,blanket
design.A whole
new range of
products such as
table
linen,cushion
covers and
bedspreads has
been developed
by diversifying
the traditional
pattu,in
collaboration
with designers
and non
government
organizations.
2 Detail of extra weft patterning and
weft predominanting stripes in a
cotton pattu.Design intervention
helped the weavers change from wool
to cotton weaving.
PANJA DHURRIE WEAVING
Production Clusters
Jodhpur district:
Salawas
Products
Gandha-large floor
covering
Aatariya-animal cover
for winters
Jhul-cart enclosure
Bora-cloth for large
sacks
Tools
Horizontal floor loom
Panja-metal comb
Churri-knife
Suaa-needle
Kainchi-scissor
Temple to maintain
width
THE WEAVERS OF the village of Salawas belong to the
Prajapati caste.Although their main source of income was
agriculture,they also practiced pottery and the weaving of
jatpatti rugs.These plain weft faced dhurried woven with
coarse goat or camel hair derive their name from jhat,literally
meaning haste,with which they could be executed.The
jatpatti were initially used as coverings for domestic animals
during winters,as saddle bags,as filters for oil mills and for
making tents.The traditionally used animal hair was replaced
with cotton fibre in 1977 and these dhurries began to be sold
to a small segment of the domestic market.The craftsmen
began experimenting with stripes,geometrical and stylized
natural forms such as the kangasi(comb),teer (arrow
head),tota(parrot),chidia(sparrow) and chaukadi
(rhombus).Variously coloured yarns are laboriously
individually inserted to create these forms,thus also ensuring
that the dhurries is reversible.As these dhurries acquired
recognition they came to be known as panja dhurries due to
the use of the panja,a comb -like beating tool.
Natural coloured wool
dhurrie;woven in goat
hair warp,and weft of
camel hair and sheep
wool.