Handmade in India

THEWA -GOLD LEAF WORK
DESCIRBED AS rangeen kaanch pe sone ka kaam or gold work
on coloured glass,thewa is essentially a form of quasi-enamelling
where a silver wire frame is covered with delicately patterned gold
leaf and sunk into a softened layer of coloured glass or enamel.The
craft originated in Deolia, a small estate in the district of
Chittorgarh that was ruled by Prince Bika of Mewar.The scarcity of
water in the region forced a shift of capital of Pratapgarh,16km to
th east;accordingly a community of Thewa artisans,the
Rajsoni,came to settle there.The motifs of those tine reflect the
lifestyles of the patrons-hunting scenes with elephants and
palanquins ,deer and lions,Maharana Pratap,riding his illustrous
horse Chetak,soldiers engaged in war,kings riding in procession
and royal weddings.In addition,themes such as Krishna and the
Gopis, Mrigavat and the peacock motif were also popular.With the
loss of Patronage from royalty and nobility,the craft has turned
towards a wider market.Consequently,thewa work is now more or
less restricted to the making of jewellery-pendants, earrings, rings,
broches. The motifs of preference too have changed-the primary
forms in vogue today are floral trellises,peacocks and elephants.
Production Clusters
Chittorgarh district:
Pratapgarh
Products
Traditional:
Ittardanis-perfume
bottles
Boxes
Platters
Comtemporary:
Jewellery
Tools
Chugga-pliers to bend
wire
Ambur-pliers to pull
wire
Katiya-wire cutter
Chimta-forcepts
Jaintee-wire gauge
Hathaudi-hammer
Gulsam-divider
Vena-used to make
dots
1 A thewa worked pendant depicting a wandering minstrel
charming the deer with his music.
2 The ornamentation on the pendants is created gold leaf on
coloured glass.
3 The peacoack has today become the most widely used motif in
thewa work.
SILVER JEWELLERY
Production Clusters
Udaipur
Tools
Thappa -dies
Chugga-pliers
Jambur-tongs
Katodi-Wire cutter
Tanka-solder
Jantri- drawplate
Sammani / chimti -
Tweezer
Naap ka kathiyacutter
with
measurements
Vesa-mallet
Dhingra - grooved
block of Babul wood
Sumba-tool with
round edges
Moos - crucible
THE SILVER JEWELLERY OF
Rajasthan is usually made of high
grade silver and therefore serves as
an investment and the surest from of
currency that is usually readily
redeemed at any village saraf,or
jeweller,for cash.IT is for this reason
that most of the jewellery worn by
the rural communities of Rajasthan
is solid or Thhos;the weight also acts
as reminder of the item`s presence
thus ensuring that it is not easily
misplaced.The ornament may also
have a functional purpose;for
instance,the quarter kilo kada worn
by Gujjar men on their wrists acts as
an effective weapon;the taqri,wron
by a Gujjar Woman just below her
waist is believed to benefit her
health;and the jantar usually
contains a talisman to ward off evil
spirits.At occasions such as animal
fairs and religious festivals where
people gather from far and
wide,jewellery becomes a means of
identifying a person`s caste,social
and martial status-a chitki or toe ring
identifies the wearer to be married
while the bajuband,the flexible
armband made of vertical
interlocking units of silver that are
corded together with a
drawstring,indicates that the wearer
belongs to the Jat or Mina
communities of Shekhawati.
A bangle with a locking
device,Udaipur
The hansli,or torque,worn by Rabari women,Rani village,Pali district.
The dies used by jewellers to shape elements of the silver ornaments are
usually of brass or iron and are made in Loharpura,Nagaur by
specialized craftsmen.
Products
Ornament for the
head & forehead:
Rakhri,Borla and
Tikka
For the neck:
Hansli-torque
Jantar - amulet
For the ears:
Phooljhumka- earstud
with attached domelike
suspensions
Karnaphool
For arms & hands:
Hatpuri-worn on the
arm
Hathphool - worn on
the hand
Churi, Bangri -
bangles
Kangan - thick bangle
Bajuband - armlet
Kada-thick bangle
For the waist:
Kandora-waist belt
For ankles & feet:
Pajel-anklet
Chitki,Bichhua-toe
rings
Nevliya, Kada -
anklets
Kada or anklets , worn by Devasi women,Rani Village,Pali district.