Handmade in India

TELIA RUMAL-YARN-RESIST-DYED TEXTILE
Production clusters
Prakasam district:
Chirala
Nalgonda district:
Puttapaka
Koyalagudem
Choutupal
Products
Double and single
squared rumaal
Sari-draped cloth
Dupatta-veils
Tools
Maggam-loom
Achhu-healds
Panni-reed
Aasu-warping frame
Chitkipita-weft ikat
frame
Kami-throw shuttle
Nadi-fly shuttle
Raatnam-yarm
winder
THE TELIA RUMAL,chowka,square,Asia rumaal,indicate
the cloth with patterns created by an exacting process of
tying and dyeing the threads prior to weaving.Telia is
derived from the use of tel,oil,that is used to soften the yarn
in preparation for dyeing,and rumaal means a
handkerchief.The cotton cloths measuring 44X44 inches
were exported to Myanmar,west Asia and east Africa.The
fishermen in Mumbai and Andhra used then as lungi
(loincloth),turban or shoulder cloths.The telia rumaal has a
square format enclosed by red broad borders.Within this
concentric structure,are featured geometric and figurative
designs in single and double ikat techniques in black,red
and white.The wrap and weftd yarns were dyed in natural
madder that was later replace with alizarin dye.After
dyeing,the yarns were treated in oil to give them a deeper
shade of red thus imparting an oily texture and smell.Telia
rumal are woven in pairs.The rectangular telia dupatta was
used as a veil by Muslim women and as a multipurpose
cloth by men.Telia rumal has been the mainstay of ikat in
Andhra.Having originated in Chirala,the skills spread to
Nalgonda district where ikat weaving is more vibrant than
in Chirala.The festival of India exhibitions and design
interventions restored the artisty of telia rumaal and
enlarged the vocabulary of ikat weaving in the region.
1. A modern interpretation of telia
rumal developed for a sari.The sari
is predominantly white with
coloured borders and a pallu or
cross border with squares based on
the delta rumal traditions.
2. Telia rumal with a geometrical
pattern woven with ikat or tieresist-dyed
warp and weft.
3. Telia rumal with a chaupad or dice
game design woven with double
ikat and single ikat used in the
field.
4. The inner square of the telia rumal
with contemporary motifs such as
clocks,birds and flowers.
5. Telia rumal,44x44" in size,with a
pattern formed by tie-resist-dyed
warp and weft stripes.
6. Rumal with motifs of mathikai,a
local fruit,and mallipu or jasmine.