Handmade in India

PATA WEAVING
Paneka, a non tribal weaving community, wave the pata, a
heavy, thick, unbleached, handspun cotton sari, white with a
striking red of maroon border on either ends, for daily and
ceremonial use by the Dhruva and Muria tribes. The Pankas and
Kabir panthis residing in Tokapal, Nagarnar in Chhattisgarh
who use the pit treadle loom made in beeja, sangi and kedu for
weaving, with probably a pre 16th century technique. The
designs of animals, pilpilli (butterflies), chidi (birds), gacho
(trees), hots , bows, arrows, pitchers, temples and lions are
woven in extra weft technique. The characteristic feature of
the sari is the interlocked kumbh motif (temple motif
borrowed from ritual paintings of Orissa) in the pallav, end
piece, that often merges with the broad bands of madder red
to create kena (pillar base like effect). The madder red used
in borders are processed from the Al trees of Orissa and
central India. Patas are short and narrow and draped in a
variety of styles by different tribes, the sundermani is worn
by women, oncha pata by men and the pheta or headwear by
men. The various types of pata like mangalgiri pata,
khandua, kobri pata are woven according to the purpose.
Production Clusters
Bastar district:
Tokapal
Nagarnar
Jagdalpur
Products
Sundermani pata -
sari
Oncha pata - men`s
shawl
Mae lugda tadap pata
- sari for bride`s
mother.
Oncha pichori -
men`s lower garment
Pata tuval - shoulder
cloth
Kosa woven pata -
silk cloth for the
pujari
Lagan sari - for bridal
ceremonies
Thekra pata - for
bridal functions
Sondi angochi - towel
for groom
Saas pata - sari for
bride`s elder sister
Bhor dhadi pata - a
sari with two end
pieces
Bagh chowda bandi
pata - Dhruva tribal
sari
1. A device made from bamboo or wood used to stretch the yarn wound in a continuous hank form. The weaver or his assistant wind this yarn out in
bobbins.
2. The weaver attaches one thread of the previous warp to one thread of the new warp with the help of ash. The new warp is placed on the side onf the
warping frame.
3. Detail of the kumbh motif in the border that is formed due to two shuttles bearing white and brown yarn which are interlocked at both edges of the
textiles.
4. Maria tuval or shoudler cloth, Jadgalpur, Bastar district.
5. Weaver of the Panka community on his pit treadle loom.
6. A married woman wearing a Kobari pata draped in a special way.
7. Detail of tangi, the axe motif.
8. Detail of chidi (bird) motif, handi (pot) motif,
9. Phool cheetah chowk motif symbolizing the bride grooms`s seat and is woven in the pata worn by the bride`s mother.