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I and A Mag Jan20

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Gardening<br />

PRUNING PERFECTION<br />

Winter is perfect for pruning <strong>and</strong> cutting back<br />

woody plants, so take advantage of the fact that<br />

deciduous trees, shrubs, hedges <strong>and</strong> climbers are<br />

now bare of leaves <strong>and</strong> get stuck in. It is only in<br />

really icy or frosty weather that you need to hold<br />

back.<br />

Remember that for your pruning to really benefit the plant, you<br />

need the right tools.<br />

For a relatively small expanse of hedge or a shrub that needs<br />

roughly reshaping, a good, sharp pair of well-oiled shears should<br />

do the job. When cutting along a hedge top, a guide line – such<br />

as a taut string – will help you get a neat, level surface. For larger<br />

hedges a powered hedge cutter or hedge trimmer is preferable,<br />

though make sure it is not too heavy <strong>and</strong> you can use it safely.<br />

For removal of stems at various heights <strong>and</strong> of varying thicknesses<br />

it is worth using ‘loppers’. These are available with various h<strong>and</strong>le<br />

lengths (some even have telescopic h<strong>and</strong>les), so that you can<br />

reach up higher without having to use a ladder or platform. They<br />

are much better at cutting through relatively thick stems than<br />

shears or secateurs <strong>and</strong> yet also allow for accurate positioning<br />

of the cut. Wear goggles <strong>and</strong> ideally protective headgear if you<br />

have to cut back branches above your head.<br />

Everybody with even just a single shrub in their garden needs<br />

a pair of secateurs for pruning of smaller woody stems, <strong>and</strong><br />

the better their quality the better the job you can do. Provided<br />

they are good <strong>and</strong> sharp, you can make a perfectly clean, neat<br />

<strong>and</strong> accurate cut. Always cut to an outward-facing bud (so<br />

that the new growth produced from that bud grows outwards).<br />

Secateurs are good for removing dead <strong>and</strong> dying stems as well<br />

as for formative pruning (where you are helping to ensure the<br />

plant grows in the direction you want it to), <strong>and</strong> for pruning to<br />

encourage flowering. If you are pruning out dead <strong>and</strong> dying<br />

material, bin it or burn it in case it carries infection.<br />

A proper pruning saw is necessary for pruning out or tidying<br />

up larger branches on trees <strong>and</strong> shrubs. If you choose one with<br />

one (or better still two) parallel lines of teeth you can create a<br />

very accurate <strong>and</strong> clean cut with relatively little effort. This is the<br />

perfect tool if you have fruit trees to prune. Use a sawing action<br />

for best results <strong>and</strong> again, if cutting above your head, wear<br />

goggles to protect your eyes from falling sawdust <strong>and</strong> debris.<br />

Make the pruning cut a few millimetres or so away from the main<br />

stem from which the branch you are removing is joined. A cut like<br />

this will heal over much more quickly <strong>and</strong> the wound size will be<br />

smaller <strong>and</strong> so less prone to fungal rotting.<br />

MORE PRUNING TIPS:<br />

Before you get carried away, check the best pruning time for the<br />

plants you have in mind. Most hedges <strong>and</strong> many shrubs can be<br />

cut back now, but for a good display of flowers make sure that<br />

you prune at the correct time or else you may end up pruning out<br />

the plant’s flowering potential.<br />

Some trees, mainly those in the Prunus family – such as edible<br />

<strong>and</strong> ornamental cherries, plums, apricots, damsons, peaches <strong>and</strong><br />

nectarines – are very prone to a potentially fatal fungal infection<br />

known as ‘silver leaf’. This is less likely to cause problems if these<br />

trees are pruned in the summer months, so don’t prune them<br />

now unless there is no alternative <strong>and</strong> you are prepared to take<br />

the risk!<br />

Always make sure that pruning tools are really sharp. If they are<br />

in the slightest bit blunt then the job will not only take more<br />

effort, but you may end up with the plant being damaged as the<br />

cut made will be jagged or stems may be crushed.<br />

Create sloping cuts whenever you can so that rain <strong>and</strong> moisture<br />

runs off <strong>and</strong> does not accumulate (wetness encourages wood<br />

rotting), <strong>and</strong> cut close to but not on top of a bud to allow new<br />

growth without dieback. When you are using shears or large scale<br />

trimmers you cannot do this, but always do so with secateurs,<br />

loppers <strong>and</strong> saws.<br />

St<strong>and</strong> back from time to time when you are pruning to check the<br />

overall appearance of the plant <strong>and</strong> to help decide where you<br />

should prune next – if you are close up it is harder to see how you<br />

are affecting the overall shape of the plant.<br />

by Pippa Greenwood<br />

60

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